*Official* Samsung UNxxF5000 and UNxxF5500 Owners Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 857 Old 01-11-2014, 01:27 PM
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Hey everyone. I'm new here, but not new to av stuff. Been playing with this stuff since the early 80s.

Anyways, I've finally gotten a UN40F5500 and am bummed that it doesn't have native bluetooth. frown.gif

But has anyone tried to get a small usb bluetooth dongle to see if bt keyboards will work? I know the logitech one as a dongle and it seems to work. Anyone else tried something like this?
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post #632 of 857 Old 01-11-2014, 03:19 PM
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This one works well:
Logitech MK750 Wireless K750 Solar Keyboard

Any with the USB BT Dongle should work
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post #633 of 857 Old 01-11-2014, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamirD View Post

Hey everyone. I'm new here, but not new to av stuff. Been playing with this stuff since the early 80s.

Anyways, I've finally gotten a UN40F5500 and am bummed that it doesn't have native bluetooth. frown.gif

But has anyone tried to get a small usb bluetooth dongle to see if bt keyboards will work? I know the logitech one as a dongle and it seems to work. Anyone else tried something like this?

While I haven't tried a bluetooth dongle, if the device is HID compliant, you have a good chance of it working (but not a guarantee). It sounds like you don't already have a bluetooth keyboard or I assume you would have just tried it, so you might just want to go with one of the wireless 2.4 Logitech ones. I can confirm that Logitech devices using a unifying receiver work. I would suggest getting a combo so you have both mouse and keyboard.

The keyboard that hdtvluvr mentioned is not a bluetooth keyboard, btw, it is one of the 2.4 GHz wireless I referred to.

And just to emphasize, if you want to try out bluetooth, the important part is that the device is HID compliant.
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post #634 of 857 Old 01-11-2014, 04:36 PM
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Sorry, I was typing too fast smile.gif The Logitech uses a unified receiver

It isn't bluetooth but if you are going to use a dongle, it really doesn't matter if it is a BT receiver or a 2.4 Ghz unified receiver - they both connect keyboard to the device.

This is the unit I was referring to. It has a mouse.

Wireless Solar Keyboard & Marathon Mouse Combo MK750

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/support/10701
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post #635 of 857 Old 01-11-2014, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jprc View Post

While I haven't tried a bluetooth dongle, if the device is HID compliant, you have a good chance of it working (but not a guarantee). It sounds like you don't already have a bluetooth keyboard or I assume you would have just tried it, so you might just want to go with one of the wireless 2.4 Logitech ones. I can confirm that Logitech devices using a unifying receiver work. I would suggest getting a combo so you have both mouse and keyboard.

The keyboard that hdtvluvr mentioned is not a bluetooth keyboard, btw, it is one of the 2.4 GHz wireless I referred to.

And just to emphasize, if you want to try out bluetooth, the important part is that the device is HID compliant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvluvr View Post

Sorry, I was typing too fast smile.gif The Logitech uses a unified receiver

It isn't bluetooth but if you are going to use a dongle, it really doesn't matter if it is a BT receiver or a 2.4 Ghz unified receiver - they both connect keyboard to the device.

This is the unit I was referring to. It has a mouse.

Wireless Solar Keyboard & Marathon Mouse Combo MK750

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/support/10701
Thank you both for the replies.

I actually have a cheap amazon keyboard designed to work with tablets, which it does quite well. Since the Samsung doesn't have built-in BT, I was just thinking a BT to USB adapter might be the ticket if someone has tried it.

Otherwise, the wife will have to put up with my ps2 to USB adapter and my IBM M. biggrin.gif
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post #636 of 857 Old 01-13-2014, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by robnix View Post

http://www.lightdims.com/

These are fantastic.

I saw those once before. May have to give it a try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post

I don't believe you can turn off the light. For the sound, I don't have the same TV as you, mine is a 5500, so our menus will not be identical. On mine, it's under System - General - Sound Feedback. I know on another Samsung TV the setting is called Melody but I don't know about your specific menu. The 5000s from different countries have different menus and I don't know exactly what options you have. But look there and if not then maybe someone with your specific TV can help.

As soon as I left the computer, I figured it out. Then realized I was late for work. My first chance to respond to both answers. Thanks.
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post #637 of 857 Old 01-13-2014, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Just updating my settings:




Sorry about a surprise revision, but I had to turn down the contrast a little bit in Dynamic mode, because peak whites were a little green. Also, I notice a clearer picture in all three modes when I turn down the sharpness. I have Game Mode and all Eco settings turned off.



Option - Dynamic - Standard - Movie

...snip...


I am becoming a fan of the Dynamic mode. I have trouble getting Standard and Movie modes to mimic it. Even when I increase the Gamma and turn on Dynamic Contrast, I can't get quite as much detail in dark scenes, nor can I get as much color intensity without distortion. Dynamic mode reminds me of the days of CRTs! I'm surprised that not many people over here like the Dynamic mode, especially if most people over here are fans of plasmas.

Big C. Are these tweaks independent or across the board for the TV's inputs? In other words, for example, if I use your settings for "Movie", will it change on all 4 inputs or only the one I was on when I made the change?
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post #638 of 857 Old 01-13-2014, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post

Big C. Are these tweaks independent or across the board for the TV's inputs? In other words, for example, if I use your settings for "Movie", will it change on all 4 inputs or only the one I was on when I made the change?

You have the option to choose whether to apply it to all inputs (if it is the same as on the 5500).
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post #639 of 857 Old 01-18-2014, 08:26 AM
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Owners of the UN40F5500: Is the 1/8" audio output a fixed level only, or can you change the settings so that its level is controlled by the Volume buttons on the remote?

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post #640 of 857 Old 01-18-2014, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markbarsamian View Post

Owners of the UN40F5500: Is the 1/8" audio output a fixed level only, or can you change the settings so that its level is controlled by the Volume buttons on the remote?

You cannot control the volume from the mini audio out port through the TV remote.
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post #641 of 857 Old 01-18-2014, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jprc View Post

You have the option to choose whether to apply it to all inputs (if it is the same as on the 5500).
Thanks. I'll have to look into that.
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post #642 of 857 Old 01-19-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markbarsamian View Post

Owners of the UN40F5500: Is the 1/8" audio output a fixed level only, or can you change the settings so that its level is controlled by the Volume buttons on the remote?

If you are refering to the 3,5mm audio output for headphones (it has an headphone symbol on the side), you should be able to control it's volume with the TV remote control.
I can with my UE32F5000.

The digital audio output is the one that can't be volume controled through the remote control.
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post #643 of 857 Old 01-19-2014, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

If you are refering to the 3,5mm audio output for headphones (it has an headphone symbol on the side), you should be able to control it's volume with the TV remote control.
I can with my UE32F5000.

The digital audio output is the one that can't be volume controled through the remote control.

The UN32F5500 (I'm assuming it's the same on the 40 inch) has a fixed level mini port that cannot be controlled by the TV remote. It is not a dedicated variable headphone jack.
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post #644 of 857 Old 01-19-2014, 12:07 PM
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Isn't there an headphone symbol besides the mini audio output in the UNF5500 models?
If not then it's another difference between european and american versions.
In europe the F5000/5500s serie have a mini audio output for headphones that is volume controllable through the TV remote and it also has a similar IR (not audio) output.
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post #645 of 857 Old 01-19-2014, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

Isn't there an headphone symbol besides the mini audio output in the UNF5500 models?
If not then it's another difference between european and american versions.
In europe the F5500 serie has a mini audio output for headphones that is volume controllable through the TV remote and it also has a similar IR (not audio) output.

No, no headphone symbol. Here's a picture. Click on it for close up:

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post #646 of 857 Old 01-19-2014, 10:01 PM
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Well I managed to disable my HDMI Black Level setting. I was trying to calibrate all of my HDMI ports with the AVS HD 709 mp4 loaded on my laptop which I connected to HDMI2 (I didn't change the input to "PC"). So I used the option to apply settings to all ports (or whatever it's called) when I calibrated. When I switched to HDMI1 and checked the settings I noticed that black level was disabled. Also it didn't move my white balance settings over to HDMI1 so I had to go in and set them manually again.

I tried a picture settings reset but it remains grayed out. Any ideas on why this happened or how to get it back? I would prefer not to do a system reset and have to start from the beginning again with everything.

In any case, the picture looks very good now on HDMI1 (my cable DTA) so it's not a problem until I have to hook something up that needs it to be changed. It must be stuck on black level = low because the blacks are dark.
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post #647 of 857 Old 01-19-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by noworthen View Post

Well I managed to disable my HDMI Black Level setting. I was trying to calibrate all of my HDMI ports with the AVS HD 709 mp4 loaded on my laptop which I connected to HDMI2 (I didn't change the input to "PC"). So I used the option to apply settings to all ports (or whatever it's called) when I calibrated. When I switched to HDMI1 and checked the settings I noticed that black level was disabled. Also it didn't move my white balance settings over to HDMI1 so I had to go in and set them manually again.

I tried a picture settings reset but it remains grayed out. Any ideas on why this happened or how to get it back? I would prefer not to do a system reset and have to start from the beginning again with everything.

In any case, the picture looks very good now on HDMI1 (my cable DTA) so it's not a problem until I have to hook something up that needs it to be changed. It must be stuck on black level = low because the blacks are dark.

If it is greyed out then you do not have an RGB HD device attached via HDMI. If your attached device allows you to set RGB color and HD resolution then you will need to set those.
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post #648 of 857 Old 01-20-2014, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jprc View Post

If it is greyed out then you do not have an RGB HD device attached via HDMI. If your attached device allows you to set RGB color and HD resolution then you will need to set those.

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear enough. Before I did the calibration I was able to set HDMI Black Level for any source connected via HDMI. Now, none of the HDMI ports will allow changing this setting (well I haven't connected anything to HDMI3 yet but I'm assuming it was also affected). AFAIK, HDMI Black Level can be set for any HDMI connection. The only time you need to set it to normal is when you are sending it a 4:4:4 signal and the only time it will actually display 4:4:4 is in PC mode, correct?

Well, I suppose I should just connect my laptop and set it to PC and see if it displays correctly or allows black level to be set. If black level is still stuck at low the image would look really dark unless it is also now defeating any kind of 4:4:4 usage. Do I have this right?
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post #649 of 857 Old 01-20-2014, 11:59 AM
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"The only time you need to set it to normal is when you are sending it a 4:4:4 signal..."

No, HDMI Black Level has nothing to do with 4:4:4 chroma sampling.
It only deals with the Color Space to match the TV with the source.

If your HDMI Black Level setting is grayed out it's because your Laptop is sending an YCbCr signal.
For HBL to become available to tweak your PC must be sending an RGB signal.

Then you'll have to configure HBL accordingly:
HBL - "Normal" when source sends Full RGB (0-255).
HBL - "Low" when source sends Limited RGB (16-235).

It's best to configure your PC to send a Full RGB, 4:4:4 chroma sampling and 60Hz refresh rate.

But if you can calibrate your picture just fine as it is, you don't have to worry about HDMI Black Level being grayed out.
It would look the same if you could configure it yourself correctly anyway.
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post #650 of 857 Old 01-20-2014, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

"The only time you need to set it to normal is when you are sending it a 4:4:4 signal..."

No, HDMI Black Level has nothing to do with 4:4:4 chroma sampling.
It only deals with the Color Space to match the TV with the source.

If your HDMI Black Level setting is grayed out it's because your Laptop is sending an YCbCr signal.
For HBL to become available to tweak your PC must be sending an RGB signal.

Then you'll have to configure HBL accordingly:
HBL - "Normal" when source sends Full RGB (0-255).
HBL - "Low" when source sends Limited RGB (16-235).

It's best to configure your PC to send a Full RGB, 4:4:4 chroma sampling and 60Hz refresh rate.

But if you can calibrate your picture just fine as it is, you don't have to worry about HDMI Black Level being grayed out.
It would look the same if you could configure it yourself correctly anyway.

Thanks, that clears up some of my confusion.

My cable box had HDMI Black Level enabled before I calibrated. I assume, from what you are saying, that this means it was sending Limited RGB because it looked correct when I set it to "Low" and washed out when set to "Normal". This doesn't explain why it is disabled now, though. The cable box doesn't have any settings to change the color space so it has to be still sending RGB and yet black level is grayed out now. It seems like the TV is assuming it's receiving a YCbCr signal from the box when it's not. Could this be because I was experimenting changing between my laptop video color space settings that it sends over HDMI while the TV Apply Picture Mode was set to "All Sources"?

Also, it seems like some programs are showing more dithering or artifacts around edges than before. Though I'm not sure if I just wasn't noticing it before. After I calibrated and looked at the settings for HDMI1 (the input my cable box is using) I noticed that Digital Clean View and MPEG Noise Filter were reset to "Auto" and I had set them to "Off" before calibrating (on both HDMI1 and HDMI2 - where I had the laptop connected for calibrating). Would it do this if it was assuming a YCbCr signal on HDMI1?
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post #651 of 857 Old 01-20-2014, 09:30 PM
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interest in these tv's but i read samsung recordings is encrypted so u cant record to usb and watch on another pc or tv. is that right?
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post #652 of 857 Old 01-20-2014, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hazaly View Post

interest in these tv's but i read samsung recordings is encrypted so u cant record to usb and watch on another pc or tv. is that right?

That's correct.

And just so other readers of this thread are not confused or misled, that question is in reference to the 5500 only and North American versions do not record.
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post #653 of 857 Old 01-21-2014, 11:17 PM
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Do you guys see any banding or uniformity issues on this grey screen? 

 

 

 

 

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post #654 of 857 Old 01-23-2014, 06:30 AM
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On the 2 top pics slight uniformity issues are visible, I'd say it's acceptable for an LCD unless it's worse in reality than the pics show.
From the pics it seems fairly similar to mine uniformity wise, if it isn't noticeable during normal content viewing there's no reason to obsess over it.
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post #655 of 857 Old 01-23-2014, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Remember when I said that with brightness at 45 or 46, peak whites weren't as bright as when set to 55 or higher? I finally figured out a way to maintain similar whites at 45 or 46. In Picture>Advanced>Wite Balance (is that what it was called?), leave RGB Offset at 25, but move the gain up to 35. This way, the shades of white aren't blurry, but are clear and bright. If you like autodimming, set the brightness to 45. If you don't like autodimming, set brightness to 46. Oh yeah ... I was doing this in Standard mode. Dynamic doesn't allow access to the advanced settings. Movie mode and Dynamic mode don't get as bright as Standard. Also, colors seem less saturated in Movie mode. It took me a while to really get this TV to perform at its peak potential, but I think I finally got it. Maybe next I'll play with color saturation and see if I could get it to look like a CRT.
I have noticed that the color temperature of my sister's UN32F5000's peak white level is either greener or bluer than the rest of the shades of white. In order to avoid this, the best thing to do depends on which picture mode you use. In Dynamic and Standard picture modes, set Contrast to 90 and RGB Gain to 25. In Movie mode, setContrast to 100 and RGB Gain to 35.

Now I am starting to prefer Movie mode because in Dynamic and Standard modes, when I do things such as change the TV's volume, check the current status, or go into the settings, the TV gets brighter while such things are on the screen, and dims when they're not. Also, I don't think Dynamic mode is as clear as Standard and Movie.

I notice that Game Mode locks the TV in Standard mode, the picture isn't as clear, and you don't have as much control over some of the audio options.
Has Samsung addressed the issue of bright whites turning green when the contrast and/or RGB gains are set too high? Is this a software/firmware issue? Regarding the panel lottery, is this a specific issue with a particular version of the Sharp or Samsung panels?
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post #656 of 857 Old 01-23-2014, 07:44 AM
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There's no issue for Samsung to address, it's not related to software or firmware limitation.
This probably happens because the red channel is clipping before the other colors, so you're losing red color information in the brightest parts.
This is an inherent limitation of the hardware, you can't just increase luminance infinitely, there's a limit to how much light a TV can produce.

You should really avoid Dynamic mode if you don't want to see any clipping and have proper picture.
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post #657 of 857 Old 01-23-2014, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by CH323 View Post
 

Do you guys see any banding or uniformity issues on this grey screen? 

 

 

 

 

My UN22F5000 has this weird yellowish tint visible on a white background going towards the top right of the screen. It almost looks like this where the background isn't even in color. I don't think I am gonna return it, because I already had to return a previous one for having some damage or some blemish on the screen. I guess I'll deal with the white backgrounds not being evenly white :/. I have a slight feeling it has something to do with the wide angle technology that samsung uses because it doesn't have an issue if you look at it form certain angles. I also see the stupid backlight banding thing on my tv, kind of like this http://www.avforums.com/attachments/small-jpg.190385/ my previous one I returned had the same thing. I guess spending $150 on the tv wasn't a bad deal though. 

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post #658 of 857 Old 01-23-2014, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

There's no issue for Samsung to address, it's not related to software or firmware limitation.
This probably happens because the red channel is clipping before the other colors, so you're losing red color information in the brightest parts.
This is an inherent limitation of the hardware, you can't just increase luminance infinitely, there's a limit to how much light a TV can produce.

You should really avoid Dynamic mode if you don't want to see any clipping and have proper picture.
It's true that all LCD panels have a brightness limit before everything becomes washed out. However, on my Philips 19PFL5403D/37, Toshiba 32E200U (which fell victim to Hurricane Sandy), and my sister's 2010 model Sony (I think the KDL-40EX500 or XBR-40EX500), I am able to get maximum proper contrast without a shift in color temperature across the gray scale. My Toshiba might have had a slight shift, but the F5000 I picked out for her kitchen has the worst color shift out of all the LCD TVs I've used. The funny thing is that I picked this one out for her based on a good report from http://televisions.reviewed.com . As I have posted, I was able to set the contrast to the highest point before the shift. However, if it wasn't for the shift, I might be able to achieve a little more contrast. I think the shift on the F5000 is holding back some potential! Does everyone's F5000 have this issue? If not, what size and panel version do you have?
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post #659 of 857 Old 01-24-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

There's no issue for Samsung to address, it's not related to software or firmware limitation.
This probably happens because the red channel is clipping before the other colors, so you're losing red color information in the brightest parts.
This is an inherent limitation of the hardware, you can't just increase luminance infinitely, there's a limit to how much light a TV can produce.

You should really avoid Dynamic mode if you don't want to see any clipping and have proper picture.
It's true that all LCD panels have a brightness limit before everything becomes washed out. However, on my Philips 19PFL5403D/37, Toshiba 32E200U (which fell victim to Hurricane Sandy), and my sister's 2010 model Sony (I think the KDL-40EX500 or XBR-40EX500), I am able to get maximum proper contrast without a shift in color temperature across the gray scale. My Toshiba might have had a slight shift, but the F5000 I picked out for her kitchen has the worst color shift out of all the LCD TVs I've used. The funny thing is that I picked this one out for her based on a good report from http://televisions.reviewed.com . As I have posted, I was able to set the contrast to the highest point before the shift. However, if it wasn't for the shift, I might be able to achieve a little more contrast. I think the shift on the F5000 is holding back some potential! Does everyone's F5000 have this issue? If not, what size and panel version do you have?
Ready for a laugh, guys? I sent an e-mail to Samsung customer support, describing the issue in a similar way I described it here, and this was their response.

"Thank you for contacting Samsung. I understand that you are unable to set the contrast
beyond certain point on your TV model, UN32F5000.
I did check our database and haven't found any such reported issues with this TV
model. You shall increase or decrease the contrast between dark and light areas of
the picture. If the picture becomes greenish on increasing the contrast, you shall
adjust other picture settings like Color, Tint.
The “Color” option adjusts the color saturation. The higher the Color setting, the
more intense the color. Low settings remove color and the picture becomes black,
white, and gray.
Your TV has the option of adjusting the color tint on your TV to be either more red
or more green. To adjust your tint follow these steps, go to Menu>>Picture>>Tint
(G/R) and use the side arrow buttons to adjust the color tint more green or more
red, when finished press ENTER.
The picture quality and the color also depends on Clear Motion Rate (CMR). CMR is
a combination of advanced backlighting technology, significant improvements in panel
response rates and ultra fast image processing.
Your TV model has CMR of 120Hz. More the CMR, more is the backlighting and more is
the contrast."

I find it hard to believe that we here at AVS are more knowledgeable than the customer service reps working for these manufacturers! The more I read this response, the harder it is for me to stop laughing! As much as manufacturers claim that they are trying to make everything as easy as plug and play, very rarely will something be up to the standards here at AVS without a little tweeking and trimming here and there. You'd think that the customer service reps would be knowledgeable beyond simple plug and play!
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post #660 of 857 Old 01-26-2014, 09:28 PM
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Does anybody know the inherent difference between standard mode and movie mode? I thought the only differences were the dimming capabilities and the presets, but I matched the settings identically on both modes and standard is visibly brighter with richer colors. What is the reason for this?

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