2013 LG LN5300 LED HDTV Review - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 426 Old 10-18-2013, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Tralfamadore View Post

I didn't have time to run the full gamut sweep for the colors. My CMS results all used 75 amplitude/75 saturation color patterns(THX instructors advise this method, and Gregg Loewen demonstrated this method to me personally). I also used the greyscale field patterns from the AVS 709 thread for gamma and greyscale calibration. My output devices that I used to generate the patterns is my desktop with a Nvidia card using a DVI to HDMI cord, my work laptop using an integrated intel card, and my personal laptop using ATI catalyst drivers. I also checked my results using the Xbox 360 video player. All sources were outputting RGB color space/Expanded black levels.

Preferences/references are set to Rec. 709 (75%), D65 white, Gamma 2.22. Greyscale was measured for all 20 levels. The 0-10 IRE levels were inconsistent when running the greyscale sweep, except for the Post Calibration file, which I manually input data for the lower IREs (Spectro takes about 10 seconds to stabilize for the lower levels, and I didn't have enough time to do that for the default .chc files)

To view these files all you need is the HCFR software, and then simply open the .chc file to view my results and graphs.




Here are the results for the 20 point grayscale and 75amplitude/75saturation gamut using default settings except for the Warm 1 color temperature, and 2.2 gamma setting. Disregard 0-10 IRE. You won't see color temperature in the color temperature graph as it reads too high to even appear. Averaged 1100k.
Default Settings Warm1_2.2.zip 26k .zip file

Here are default settings using the Warm 2 color temperature and 2.2 gamma. Disregard 0-10 IRE
Default Settings Warm2_2.2.zip 115k .zip file

Here are my final results. 0-10 IRE is as accurate as possible using a spectroradiometer.
Post Calibration Final.zip 1452k .zip file


I will post the full gamut and results for the Post Calibration file tomorrow. If anyone would like to see how specific settings measure, let me know and I will be happy to show you the results I come up with.

I will post my new settings I used to achieve those results as well. It is highly unlikely my settings will work for every TV, and may even make it look worse. But I will post them anyways for those that just want to try it out.

I spent many hours to achieve my results. Blue and Red gave me the most trouble. I also used the Gamut Calibration Disk from this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406352/gcd-gamut-calibration-disk

as well as the accompanied colorchecker spreadsheet, which resulted in DeltaEs all lower than 2. (Colorchecker is for checking common real world colors other than the primary and secondary colors. Such as skin tone, sky, foilage, etc).

Backlight: 40
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 51
H/V sharpness: 15
Color: 50
Tint: 0
_______________
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Gamut: Wide
Edge Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 2.2
Color Temperature: Warm2
_______________
Method 2 points
R, G, B
5, 0, -3
_______________
Method: 20 points
R, G, B
5: -12, -2, -10
10: -8, -7, -9
15: -11, -12, -8
20: -29, -29, -18
25: -32, -33, -26
30: -31, -32, -35
35: -34, -36, -48
40: -30, -32, -45
45: -34, -36, -42
50: -30, -31, -34
55: -25, -26, -26
60: -25, -23, -23
65: -20, -24, -22
70: -17, -19, -17
75: -20, -17, -16
80: -19, -16, -11
85: -18, -13, -5
90: -17, -9, 2)
95: -16, -7, 7
100: -12, 0, 2
___________
CMS settings:
Saturation, Tint, Luminance
Red: 4, -10, -7
Green: 0, 0, -1
Blue: -2, 15, 5
Cyan: 2, -3, 0
Magenta: 0, -2, 3
Yellow: 0, 12, -2

did you turn real cinema off or leave it on?
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post #272 of 426 Old 10-18-2013, 08:05 PM
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Hey everyone. I just got this TV recently and am more than happy with it. Reading through this post, I think I can lend some help on a couple issues.

 

Gaming Setup:

I use my gaming input for my Xbox 360 and soon my PS4. I've spent at least an hour going through countless calibrations and have found, what I believe, to be the best settings.

 

Input: Game

Eco: Off

Backlight: 65

Contrast: 85

Brightness: 50

Sharpness: 5

Color: 55

Temperature: Full Cool (aka all the way to the right)

Advanced Control: Gamma set to medium, everything else set to "Off" or 0

Picture Option: Black Level set to low, everything else set to "Off"

 

Make sure the input label is set to "PC" to get rid of any excess gaming lag.

 

Dark Corners:

Like many others who have noticed, I too have the dark corners. Unfortunately, these are almost guaranteed with any edge-lit LED. For me, it's not really a problem. They don't show up during movies or video games. I did, however, decrease the darkness of the corners by simply tightening the screws on the corners of the LED as far as they would go. After a week, two of the corners don't even suffer from darkness anymore. Just thought I would share that tip.

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post #273 of 426 Old 10-22-2013, 01:39 PM
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Im a noob and I just bought this tv, I notice the TV has a built in USB but only has picture and music options, am I to assume it won't play videos from my HDD? My other LG does so I suppose I just figured it would?


Also, whenever I switch to HDMI the TV turns the volume all the way down to 1, I'm sure there's an easy fix for that but I can't find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

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post #274 of 426 Old 10-23-2013, 08:04 AM
 
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Originally Posted by kenny02 View Post

Im a noob and I just bought this tv, I notice the TV has a built in USB but only has picture and music options, am I to assume it won't play videos from my HDD? My other LG does so I suppose I just figured it would?


Also, whenever I switch to HDMI the TV turns the volume all the way down to 1, I'm sure there's an easy fix for that but I can't find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

For video from external media, LG seems to restrict that feature to higher-end models nowadays (though you can enable it if you get the service menu codes).

For HDMI turning the TV volume down to 1, make sure you have SIMPLink disabled (if you're not using it). Some autonomous features could still be enabled when SIMPLink is entirely enabled and it sounds like it might be thinking an LG HDMI A/V receiver is connected.
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post #275 of 426 Old 10-25-2013, 07:39 AM
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Can't seem to find any info on the 32LN5310 model which a few retailers are selling .. anyone know what the difference is between this one and the 32LN5300?

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post #276 of 426 Old 10-27-2013, 09:59 PM
 
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Originally Posted by citygravy View Post

Can't seem to find any info on the 32LN5310 model which a few retailers are selling .. anyone know what the difference is between this one and the 32LN5300?

This blog post seems to describe it as a Best Buy rebrand with nothing changed in the slightest bit. I read the manual LG provides for it on their website and it only lists the 5300 and then skips to 5400 so you can tell its just a rebrand.
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post #277 of 426 Old 10-29-2013, 04:47 AM
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Ok its set to PC input now what settings should I use? 

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post #278 of 426 Old 10-29-2013, 06:54 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

Ok its set to PC input now what settings should I use? 

This is what I use (finally typed it all without my browser crashing like last time) cool.gif:

(For RGB sources. YCbCr source values are stated to the right)


Picture mode: Expert 1

Backlight: 56 (same with YCbCr [no "PC" input label] )

Contrast: 95 (same with YCbCr)

Brightness 53 (same with YCbCr)

H sharpness: 11 (10 with YCbCr)

V sharpness: 24 (17 with YCbCr)

Color: 53 (same with YCbCr)

Tint: G4 (same with YCbCr)


Picture Options:

Black Level: Auto (same with YCbCr)


Expert Control: (all same with YCbCr. Use "Copy White Point Values" for IRE)

Dynamic contrast: Off

Color Gamut: Wide

Edge enhancer: Off

Gamma: 2.2


Whitepoint:

Color Temp: Warm1

Method: 20-point IRE ( 2-point = High only - R-11 G-5 B18)

IRE 100: R10 G12 B20

IRE 95: R9 G11 B19

IRE 90: R8 G10 B18

IRE 85: R7 G9 B17

IRE 80: R6 G8 B16

IRE 75: R5 G7 B15

IRE 70: R4 G6 B14

IRE 65: R3 G5 B13

IRE 60: R2 G4 B12

IRE 55: R1 G3 B11

IRE 50: R0 G2 B10

IRE 45: R-1 G1 B9

IRE 40: R-2 G0 B8

IRE 35: R-3 G-1 B7

IRE 30: R-4 G-2 B6

IRE 25: R-5 G-3 B5

IRE 20: R-6 G-4 B4

IRE 15: R-7 G-5 B3

IRE 10: R-8 G-6 B2

IRE 5: R2 G 2 B10

IRE 0: R-50 G-25 0


Color Management System:

Red: Saturation -1 Tint -3 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Green: Saturation 1 Tint 2 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Blue: Saturation 2 Tint 18 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr, except Tint is 23)

Cyan: Saturation 5 Tint 2 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Magenta: Saturation 4 Tint -1 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Yellow: Saturation 10 Tint 1 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)



Gamma is spot on with these settings using this page (for me). I use a 32" LN5300 for reference.
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post #279 of 426 Old 10-29-2013, 07:45 AM
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How do I check what firmware version my 32LN5300 has? On my previous LG tv (32LD450) all I had to do what hit the menu button, then the red square button to pull up the usage time and firmware info. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #280 of 426 Old 10-30-2013, 06:56 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Zardoz04 View Post

How do I check what firmware version my 32LN5300 has? On my previous LG tv (32LD450) all I had to do what hit the menu button, then the red square button to pull up the usage time and firmware info. Any help would be appreciated.

Same problem I have and I don't know how to either. Its funny I had the 32LD450 before just like you and updating it worked the same way you described.

I put a USB drive in this TV with the LG_DTV folder and files in that folder, but the TV doesn't pop up a firmware update. I talked to an LG live support representative and they told me after all the testing to try to get the TV to update, that it was a TV issue and i had to go it repaired. Pfft, if its happening for you, then its an issue with the design of the TV firmware.
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post #281 of 426 Old 10-30-2013, 11:00 AM
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So, I have the opportunity to bid on a used 42" version that work is selling b/c they are going with bigger screens. I typically don't buy used electronics, but could get a good value. Price for new set seems to be around $400. What would you bid?

TIA
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post #282 of 426 Old 10-30-2013, 03:22 PM
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This model(42 inch) seems to draw less than half the power of any other brand ...44 watts vs 89 or 92 or 134 from other manufacturers .Any owners able to verify this ? Is LG always this energy efficient ?
The reason this interests me is due to the fact that we live in an old apartment with very few outlets . We have a tv that now draws 125 watts and i would like to replace it and also add a arris gateway and portal which together draw about 70 watts so that with the 42 inch is a nice bonus in not adding any extra to my circuit. (which i'm not sure it could take)
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post #283 of 426 Old 11-01-2013, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

Same problem I have and I don't know how to either. Its funny I had the 32LD450 before just like you and updating it worked the same way you described.

I put a USB drive in this TV with the LG_DTV folder and files in that folder, but the TV doesn't pop up a firmware update. I talked to an LG live support representative and they told me after all the testing to try to get the TV to update, that it was a TV issue and i had to go it repaired. Pfft, if its happening for you, then its an issue with the design of the TV firmware.
What's your lcd's build date? Mine is July. Did tech support tell you how to check the firmware version? I formatted the usb in both FAT_32 & NTFS and while it read the stick both times, it just goes right into the video/pictures menu. Their 'how-to' guide for updating the firmware looks the same as the 32LD450's, so I assume it's just a generic guide. Maybe the only way to update ours is by the serial port?
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post #284 of 426 Old 11-03-2013, 10:24 PM
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I just bought the 42ln5300 and successfully updated the firmware. I don't think what I used really matters (2GB SD card with a USB card reader) but what helped was probably that it was formatted with regular FAT, not FAT32. I used my Canon digital camera's format memory card function to format the card first. Then inserted the memory card into the USB reader and hooked it up to my computer, created the LG_DTV folder and copied the file over. Worked without a single hitch.

I am very glad I returned the Samsung UN32F5500 smart tv (confirmed Samsung PVA panel TS01) and got this one instead. I can't stand the gamma shift with viewing angle on VA. Have to admit the contrast/blacks were slightly better but overall the LN53 with Yxxx IPS panel is far more satisfying. For now 2 hdmi inputs is enough but I have a strong feeling I'll be wishing for more soon.
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post #285 of 426 Old 11-04-2013, 06:40 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Zardoz04 View Post

What's your lcd's build date? Mine is July. Did tech support tell you how to check the firmware version? I formatted the usb in both FAT_32 & NTFS and while it read the stick both times, it just goes right into the video/pictures menu. Their 'how-to' guide for updating the firmware looks the same as the 32LD450's, so I assume it's just a generic guide. Maybe the only way to update ours is by the serial port?

My TV's build date is April 2013. But it may be confined to the serial port. I'll do the method Daredeshouka posted above and try to use a drive that allows formatting to FAT.

But i've tried exFAT, Fat32, and NTFS thinking one would work.
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post #286 of 426 Old 11-04-2013, 10:09 AM
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I also tried the regular FAT format and that didn't work. So, I just got off the phone with LG and.......

Phone Support: "It's not a smart tv so you cannot update it."

Me: "Then why is there a firmware update for this lcd on your website?"

Phone Support: "I don't know."

LOL. That's pretty much how all my questions were answered with their phone 'tech'. 30 min. of my life I'll never get back.

Although it shouldn't matter, I was using 16GB usb sticks. I'll see if I have a smaller one laying around.
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post #287 of 426 Old 11-04-2013, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


This blog post seems to describe it as a Best Buy rebrand with nothing changed in the slightest bit. I read the manual LG provides for it on their website and it only lists the 5300 and then skips to 5400 so you can tell its just a rebrand.
 

This is essentially what LG live chat told me, that the 32LN5310 is a model made only for certain retailers and is absolutely identical to the 32LN5300.

 

I just bought the 5310 as Best Buy had it on sale for $250, $50 cheaper than the 5300. And I can confirm it's an IPS panel as I had the Geek Squad open it up and plug it so I could check before I left the store. The box codes for the 5310s are the same as the 5300, in my case it's UB.AUSYLJM, which was the same code on the 5300 they had on display in the store, which was also an IPS panel. I did notice a few of the boxed 5300 units on the shelf had codes that started with UB.BU; not sure if those are VA panels or not as they only had the one IPS unit on display.

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post #288 of 426 Old 11-05-2013, 06:44 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Zardoz04 View Post

I also tried the regular FAT format and that didn't work. So, I just got off the phone with LG and.......

Phone Support: "It's not a smart tv so you cannot update it."

Me: "Then why is there a firmware update for this lcd on your website?"

Phone Support: "I don't know."

LOL. That's pretty much how all my questions were answered with their phone 'tech'. 30 min. of my life I'll never get back.

Although it shouldn't matter, I was using 16GB usb sticks. I'll see if I have a smaller one laying around.

Did they sound like they were from India?... rolleyes.gif

Yeah, FAT doesn't work either, but the TV still works. Just my inner nerd wanting me to find out whats new and special with the newer firmware. tongue.gif
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post #289 of 426 Old 11-05-2013, 07:15 PM
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Did they sound like they were from India?... rolleyes.gif

Yeah, FAT doesn't work either, but the TV still works. Just my inner nerd wanting me to find out whats new and special with the newer firmware. tongue.gif
Yep, I got the overseas tech support. The guy couldn't even tell me how to check the firmware or usage time. I give up on trying to figure this monitor out. Funny how a model from 3 years ago didn't give me any issues but this one is impossible to even check the firmware version on it. And yeah lol I know what you mean. Whenever new drivers/firmware are released for my pc hardware, I always download it. It's those nerd impulses. Haven't had a single issue in over 13 years with hardware though..........sans this sucker. smile.gif
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post #290 of 426 Old 11-06-2013, 02:38 PM
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Just bought the 42" version of this. I'll get it in about a week.This is a really long thread so I'm gonna ask this so I have consolidated info.

 

Anything I need to look out for? Known issues?

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post #291 of 426 Old 11-07-2013, 06:55 AM
 
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Just bought the 42" version of this. I'll get it in about a week.This is a really long thread so I'm gonna ask this so I have consolidated info.

Anything I need to look out for? Known issues?

Yeah. There's just one issue... THE TV IS A STEAL.

But really, no issues.
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post #292 of 426 Old 11-11-2013, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


This is what I use (finally typed it all without my browser crashing like last time) cool.gif:

(For RGB sources. YCbCr source values are stated to the right)


Picture mode: Expert 1

Backlight: 56 (same with YCbCr [no "PC" input label] )

Contrast: 95 (same with YCbCr)

Brightness 53 (same with YCbCr)

H sharpness: 11 (10 with YCbCr)

V sharpness: 24 (17 with YCbCr)

Color: 53 (same with YCbCr)

Tint: G4 (same with YCbCr)


Picture Options:

Black Level: Auto (same with YCbCr)


Expert Control: (all same with YCbCr. Use "Copy White Point Values" for IRE)

Dynamic contrast: Off

Color Gamut: Wide

Edge enhancer: Off

Gamma: 2.2


Whitepoint:

Color Temp: Warm1

Method: 20-point IRE ( 2-point = High only - R-11 G-5 B18)

IRE 100: R10 G12 B20

IRE 95: R9 G11 B19

IRE 90: R8 G10 B18

IRE 85: R7 G9 B17

IRE 80: R6 G8 B16

IRE 75: R5 G7 B15

IRE 70: R4 G6 B14

IRE 65: R3 G5 B13

IRE 60: R2 G4 B12

IRE 55: R1 G3 B11

IRE 50: R0 G2 B10

IRE 45: R-1 G1 B9

IRE 40: R-2 G0 B8

IRE 35: R-3 G-1 B7

IRE 30: R-4 G-2 B6

IRE 25: R-5 G-3 B5

IRE 20: R-6 G-4 B4

IRE 15: R-7 G-5 B3

IRE 10: R-8 G-6 B2

IRE 5: R2 G 2 B10

IRE 0: R-50 G-25 0


Color Management System:

Red: Saturation -1 Tint -3 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Green: Saturation 1 Tint 2 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Blue: Saturation 2 Tint 18 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr, except Tint is 23)

Cyan: Saturation 5 Tint 2 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Magenta: Saturation 4 Tint -1 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Yellow: Saturation 10 Tint 1 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)



Gamma is spot on with these settings using this page (for me). I use a 32" LN5300 for reference.

Sorry to sound stupid but what does YCbCr mean? And after all that anything else? For some reason it keeps saying its dispplaying in 16;9 

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post #293 of 426 Old 11-12-2013, 07:13 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

Sorry to sound stupid but what does YCbCr mean? And after all that anything else? For some reason it keeps saying its dispplaying in 16;9 

Its alright. YCbCr stands for Luminance/sYnc (green component) chroma blue (blue component) and chroma red (red component). With a component cable, its YPbPr, but thats for analog and YCbCr is digital. Luminance and Chrominance are the two pieces that make up a digital image.

Ever seen a CRT that is deconverged? Around text, blue and red lines are undistributed over each other. If you had the Red, Blue and Green component lined up over each other, it would make white and this is what each component in YCbCr/YPbPr all together, does. Its just a colorspace form of RGB to use with compressed media.

Here is an example of CRT convergence:



That's why I posted a note about each setting if it was different or the same for YCbCr (Non-PC mode). Oh, and the reason you see 16:9 instead of Just Scan, is from you applying the PC input label. The PC input label removes all overscan, allows full chroma value, and sets the TV up so it turns off all but basic resolution scaling (no image zoom, just upscaling lower resolutions if needed). This why you only have 2 picture aspect ratios to choose from (16:9 or 4:3) and all the Picture Options greyed out (except for Black Level).

So again PC label = RGB colorspace, and No PC label = YCbCr colorspace. All of those settings are the current ones I'm using right now.
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post #294 of 426 Old 11-12-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


Its alright. YCbCr stands for Luminance/sYnc (green component) chroma blue (blue component) and chroma red (red component). With a component cable, its YPbPr, but thats for analog and YCbCr is digital. Luminance and Chrominance are the two pieces that make up a digital image.

Ever seen a CRT that is deconverged? Around text, blue and red lines are undistributed over each other. If you had the Red, Blue and Green component lined up over each other, it would make white and this is what each component in YCbCr/YPbPr all together, does. Its just a colorspace form of RGB to use with compressed media.

Here is an example of CRT convergence:



That's why I posted a note about each setting if it was different or the same for YCbCr (Non-PC mode). Oh, and the reason you see 16:9 instead of Just Scan, is from you applying the PC input label. The PC input label removes all overscan, allows full chroma value, and sets the TV up so it turns off all but basic resolution scaling (no image zoom, just upscaling lower resolutions if needed). This why you only have 2 picture aspect ratios to choose from (16:9 or 4:3) and all the Picture Options greyed out (except for Black Level).

So again PC label = RGB colorspace, and No PC label = YCbCr colorspace. All of those settings are the current ones I'm using right now.

 

What about games at 1080p? From my Xbox360 and soon Xboxone? I just do not want stuff to seem blurred or hard to read. 

I changed all the settings and it does look nice. Gonna try it on Borderlands 2 and a few other games to see what it looks like. 

 

And If I understand the TCbCr is if I pick to use non PC mode right? 

 

If it makes it easier this TV is ONLY for video games. I got tired of watching TV long ago. 

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post #295 of 426 Old 11-13-2013, 08:22 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

What about games at 1080p? From my Xbox360 and soon Xboxone? I just do not want stuff to seem blurred or hard to read. 
I changed all the settings and it does look nice. Gonna try it on Borderlands 2 and a few other games to see what it looks like. 

And If I understand the TCbCr is if I pick to use non PC mode right? 

If it makes it easier this TV is ONLY for video games. I got tired of watching TV long ago. 

For video games or any content that is created with a PC, you want to use the PC input label because all of that content is in the form of RGB.

YCbCr is for Disc-based movies and TV broadcast only.

Any resolution that is 60hz Progressive will activate PC mode and ONLY under HDMI (you can apply the label to Component, but it won't do anything). Won't work with 24hz.

The biggest thing for clarity after making sure you are seeing 4:4:4 chroma, is calibrating sharpness which my settings were spot on as I used this test image: Sharpness 1920x1080

You should be good to go after all this.
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post #296 of 426 Old 11-13-2013, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


For video games or any content that is created with a PC, you want to use the PC input label because all of that content is in the form of RGB.

YCbCr is for Disc-based movies and TV broadcast only.

Any resolution that is 60hz Progressive will activate PC mode and ONLY under HDMI (you can apply the label to Component, but it won't do anything). Won't work with 24hz.

The biggest thing for clarity after making sure you are seeing 4:4:4 chroma, is calibrating sharpness which my settings were spot on as I used this test image: Sharpness 1920x1080

You should be good to go after all this.

So what about the games upscale to 1080 and natural 1080 stuff? 

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post #297 of 426 Old 11-14-2013, 09:12 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

So what about the games upscale to 1080 and natural 1080 stuff? 

It will be the same settings because 1080p upscaled is any resolution lower than it that is applied to a 1080p window (which is 60hz on an Xbox 360). Xbox 360 and one do output full chroma so its best done this way.
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post #298 of 426 Old 11-14-2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


It will be the same settings because 1080p upscaled is any resolution lower than it that is applied to a 1080p window (which is 60hz on an Xbox 360). Xbox 360 and one do output full chroma so its best done this way.

And what about native on the Xboxone? 

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post #299 of 426 Old 11-14-2013, 04:42 PM
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I just got a 42 inches this afternoon,hooked up and the cable channels shows 1080i 60hz.Wasn't this supposed to be 1080p 120hz ?

Edited: My bad I got the 5700.
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post #300 of 426 Old 11-14-2013, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bizuca View Post

I just got a 42 inches this afternoon,hooked up and the cable channels shows 1080i 60hz.Wasn't this supposed to be 1080p 120hz ?

Edited: My bad I got the 5700.

Good that you figured it out. I still wanna know what happens to native 1080p stuff. 

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