Official Samsung UNXXF7100 Owners Thread - Page 166 - AVS Forum
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post #4951 of 5204 Old 04-08-2014, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlitend1 View Post

So one of the main reasons I bought this tv 55f7050 was for the wireless, Netflix etc. The problem is when in Netflix the tv looses connection. It happens everytime with in 5 minutes. Didn't do this for the first few months of ownership. Now it is all the time. I also have a sony 3d BR with Netflix, the exact same looking as the TV's, and it works everytime no problem.
So I suspect this is a Samsung issue. Anything I can do about this?

Have you tried a reset?

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post #4952 of 5204 Old 04-09-2014, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by nlitend1 View Post

So one of the main reasons I bought this tv 55f7050 was for the wireless, Netflix etc. The problem is when in Netflix the tv looses connection. It happens everytime with in 5 minutes. Didn't do this for the first few months of ownership. Now it is all the time. I also have a sony 3d BR with Netflix, the exact same looking as the TV's, and it works everytime no problem.
So I suspect this is a Samsung issue. Anything I can do about this?

I assume you're using Wi-Fi networking...have you tried upgrading the firmware on your Wi-Fi router? Your Samsung TV software should update automatically, but that's not the case for most networking routers.

 

The reason I ask is that I used to have flaky Wi-Fi issues with SOME devices on my home network. Some things would connect just fine, some things would not. I initially blamed everything but the Wi-Fi router, but after doing a firmware upgrade for an unrelated issue, I found that my Wi-Fi network was suddenly AWESOME with everything working great. I was literally kicking myself for not thinking of upgrading the firmware sooner, because it was like night and day!

 

The issue in my case is that there are numerous "revisions" to the Wi-Fi standard, and each one is a little faster and better than the one before. So in my case, older devices using an older spec (such as 802.11b) worked just fine, because that has been out since 2000, and has pretty solid support. However, my newer devices were trying to use one of the most latest specs (802.11n) and they would connect/dis-connect repeatedly. 

 

I don't know if you have a similar issue, but it's worth looking into. If you log into your Wi-Fi router, there's usually an easy way somewhere in the menu to "check for upgrades" or "upgrade your firmware". With some routers you just click the link and wait...it goes out to the Internet to see if there's a newer version, downloads and applies it, and reboots, while keeping your configuration. Some older routers require a little bit more effort, such as downloading an actual file from the vendor's site and going through the menu to apply it to the router.

 

Also, keeping firmware up to date is a "best practice" like changing the oil in your car, since it sometimes fixes security issues. If you provide more detail (via PM if you're worried about privacy) I can try and find instructions for your particular model. 

 

Good luck!

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post #4953 of 5204 Old 04-09-2014, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newjacksm View Post

HBO go just froze and TV just restarted. Any cause for concern for a new TV?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nlitend1 View Post

So one of the main reasons I bought this tv 55f7050 was for the wireless, Netflix etc. The problem is when in Netflix the tv looses connection.

Both of these issues could be firmware related, update to version 1122 it should correct both.
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post #4954 of 5204 Old 04-09-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I saw the new Samsung HU9000, HU8550, H8000, H7150 and a few other H series sets today.

These new sets were playing identical HD feeds side by side with the F7100 at BrandsMart USA.

The F7100's Picture Quality looked just as good as the new sets.

I liked the flat HU8550 and H7150 over the curved sets.
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post #4955 of 5204 Old 04-09-2014, 06:51 PM
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Just my opinion here...but i have no need for a curved set. Some people may but until they are 75" plus, i do t get it. Baby steps i guess. Getting the public to buy maybe.

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post #4956 of 5204 Old 04-09-2014, 06:53 PM
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It is already updated to 1122. Will try the router update and report back.
Thanks all.
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post #4957 of 5204 Old 04-10-2014, 10:03 AM
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Help! Can anyone explain this phenomenon? Purchased my 75" F7100 in late MARCH - obviously still under warranty.





The problem is clearly evident when a small amount video signal is being sent to the screen – transitions from programming to commercials on TV, end credits on movies, when a simple screen saver is invoked are examples. Unfortunately, it has gotten to the point where I now see it [and mentally look for it] in all low intensity situations and now see it in lightly colored scenes with adequate contrast.

The first photograph was taken at the end of the “Elementary” episode earlier this week on CBS, as it transitioned into a commercial [note the CBS logo at the bottom right]. As you can see, there are two visible white “blobs” that appear on the left of the screen and a general white smear that intensifies as you move to the right.

The second photograph is during the screen saver of my NetGear media server [the NetGear icon bounces around, once every second]. Again the same white blobs appear in the same place – note that they do not appear as bright as in the first attachment because the light from the moving screensaver icon washes out the contrast in the photograph. I can assure you that they are just as visually distracting.

And finally, the third photograph illustrates the problem during screen credits [from Kevin Spacey's "House of Cards"]. Again note the two white blobs are evident in the same location and, like the second attachment, are not as bright as in the first due to the light washing out the contrast.

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post #4958 of 5204 Old 04-10-2014, 10:14 AM
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That's called "Clouding." Welcome to LED technology and problems with screen uniformity - you will see this on just about any LED to some degree depending on displays picture settings - if set up properly you may be able to greatly reduce what your seeing. This is one reason there are those of us who will miss plasma. I have Sony and Samsung LEDs, both of which exhibit clouding depending on content. I would suggest adjusting your backlight if you have it cranked up or use movie mode vs. vivid.
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post #4959 of 5204 Old 04-10-2014, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post

That's called "Clouding." Welcome to LED technology and problems with screen uniformity - you will see this on just about any LED to some degree depending on displays picture settings - if set up properly you may be able to greatly reduce what your seeing.

Clouding is caused by uniformity problems in the backlight diffusion layer. My experience is that the F7100 is extremely fragile and vulnerable to induced uniformity issues. I have seen stress to the frame (moving it etc) and heat (extra bright 3d mode) introduce unifomity issues.

Edge-lit LED is indeed terrible technology (give us full-array backlit LED already), but I don't agree that he should live with this set. If it's still under warranty, return it. But be prepared to go through this several times...
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post #4960 of 5204 Old 04-10-2014, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kws53 View Post


 

 

Assuming this is backlight 20? Try setting the backlight at 10-12 and see how much you still notice it. While I agree you might want to return this particular set, if your preference is for a maxed backlight setting, you will not find a set completely free of clouding. It just doesn't exist.

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post #4961 of 5204 Old 04-10-2014, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kohmei View Post

Assuming this is backlight 20? Try setting the backlight at 10-12 and see how much you still notice it. While I agree you might want to return this particular set, if your preference is for a maxed backlight setting, you will not find a set completely free of clouding. It just doesn't exist.

This is based on a backlight setting of 14, which in turn was based on calibration with Disney WOW.

KWS
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post #4962 of 5204 Old 04-12-2014, 05:29 PM
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Is it normal for the tv to flash black when you exit an app? I had one of my TV's returned because of a dead pixel and I don't remember this ever happening when I exited an app. When I am in HBO GO/Amazon Instant/ or Netflix and I exit them the screen will turn black and go back to the apps page from exiting.

Just wondering if anyone else had this issue. This is somehting so minimal I am not going to bother returning the TV for it, plus I have a 3 yr warranty.

Edit: It does it with everything in the smart hub, just checked photos videos and music. It'll enter the music and when i exit out of there it'll go back to smart hub and go to a black screen for .5 seconds and return to a picture. Any ideas? firmware is up-to-date.
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post #4963 of 5204 Old 04-12-2014, 06:18 PM
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Hi,

I have the 46in 7100 since a few month and it's a real great TV - my concern is the high data volume when playing VEVO streaming music on this TV? It looks to me some 30 minutes music gobble up close to 1 gig of data? Can this be true or do I miss something?

 

I can watch an 45min movie through ABC-iView (recorded series online) and it's barely 300MB of data (compressed?)

 

anything I can do about VEVO?

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post #4964 of 5204 Old 04-12-2014, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newjacksm View Post

Is it normal for the tv to flash black when you exit an app? I had one of my TV's returned because of a dead pixel and I don't remember this ever happening when I exited an app. When I am in HBO GO/Amazon Instant/ or Netflix and I exit them the screen will turn black and go back to the apps page from exiting.

Just wondering if anyone else had this issue. This is somehting so minimal I am not going to bother returning the TV for it, plus I have a 3 yr warranty.

Edit: It does it with everything in the smart hub, just checked photos videos and music. It'll enter the music and when i exit out of there it'll go back to smart hub and go to a black screen for .5 seconds and return to a picture. Any ideas? firmware is up-to-date.
I saw a similar flash occur and had remembered I had just set LED Clear Motion to ON in my Custom Auto Motion + settings. I turned the setting back to OFF and the Black screen flash I breifly saw went away. No idea if this is what is causing your situation but I thought I'de mention itand hope it helps.
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post #4965 of 5204 Old 04-13-2014, 07:12 AM
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Hi proud owner of a 65F7100. Upgraded from my 6yr 52" Samsung. The 65" fit perfectly in my TV area. My question is that I also have a 40" F5100 that give better color and picture than my 7100. The overall color and depth is so much more vibrant.
1. Is there something wrong with my screen or a calibrate issue? I tried a few from a different thread in movie setting but not to my liking.
2. When I press guide it goes to Samsung guide and to channel 1. I have dish network... Is there a way to change that button to dish network guide?
2a. Or have the Samsung guide keep at its current channel instead going back to channel 1.
3. Where is the button for a recall to the last channel on the smart remote? Can't find.
Thanks for your help in advance.
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post #4966 of 5204 Old 04-13-2014, 07:29 AM
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Does anyone know if the f7100 has x.v.Color feature? It's an option on my AVR Onkyo receiver. Not sure if I should set it to enable or disable.
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post #4967 of 5204 Old 04-13-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgh26 View Post

I saw a similar flash occur and had remembered I had just set LED Clear Motion to ON in my Custom Auto Motion + settings. I turned the setting back to OFF and the Black screen flash I breifly saw went away. No idea if this is what is causing your situation but I thought I'de mention itand hope it helps.


Thanks you were right, I had my motion plus set on custom -- PirateCoves settings. I guess it doesn't play nice with SmartHub.
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post #4968 of 5204 Old 04-13-2014, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newjacksm View Post

Thanks you were right, I had my motion plus set on custom -- PirateCoves settings. I guess it doesn't play nice with SmartHub.


Glad that worked for you. I still use Custom settings but with the LED Clear Motion set to OFF. It does play better that way with the Smart Hub but it's really just a software thing. Not a TV hardware issue at all.
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post #4969 of 5204 Old 04-13-2014, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgh26 View Post

I saw a similar flash occur and had remembered I had just set LED Clear Motion to ON in my Custom Auto Motion + settings. I turned the setting back to OFF and the Black screen flash I breifly saw went away. No idea if this is what is causing your situation but I thought I'de mention itand hope it helps.
Might be related to LED Clear Motion. (smarthub may disable it when not showing video because it causes more visible flicker & eye strain on stationary images.)
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post #4970 of 5204 Old 04-13-2014, 11:50 PM
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I usually stream Netflix from my Sony bluray but thought I would try the Samsung. It diverted to TV on my AVR which wasn't a big deal but then I noticed I lost all my picture settings. I went back in and changed them ( good thing I saved the pics on my phone of setup ). Is this normal for it to revert back to default video settings when watching via smart hub?

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post #4971 of 5204 Old 04-16-2014, 06:48 AM
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This site really helped me pick out my 60in, and I love it, just a couple of questions:

 

Sorry if these questions have been answered before.  

 

When I try to adjust my settings to Pirates and several others, some of my options are grayed out and I'm unable to edit it.  Am I doing something wrong?

 

After I adjusted all of the settings I could to Pirates, I got a very gray picture, that looked very cloudy.

 

Right now I'm using Standard and the picture is great except for people's faces, which seem a bit whited out.

 

Thanks for the help in advance.

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post #4972 of 5204 Old 04-16-2014, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ebok24 View Post

This site really helped me pick out my 60in, and I love it, just a couple of questions:

Sorry if these questions have been answered before.  

When I try to adjust my settings to Pirates and several others, some of my options are grayed out and I'm unable to edit it.  Am I doing something wrong?

After I adjusted all of the settings I could to Pirates, I got a very gray picture, that looked very cloudy.

Right now I'm using Standard and the picture is great except for people's faces, which seem a bit whited out.

Thanks for the help in advance.

If your overall picture is looking gray or washed out then I recommend increasing the backlight a couple and then backing down the brightness. You may have to try a few backlight settings and brightness levels before you find the right balance. Remember that every panel is a little different and every room environment is different. Pirate's settings will get you close but then adjust to your environment.

Some modes do not let you adjust everything. I believe that standard and movie let you adjust the most. Natural and dynamic are going to have many grayed out settings.

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post #4973 of 5204 Old 04-16-2014, 08:15 AM
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What is the best way to use AMP with blu ray movies? Blu ray set at 24p or 60p? Does AMP play better with 24p or 60p? Thanks.
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post #4974 of 5204 Old 04-16-2014, 10:53 AM
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Quote:

Originally Posted by 8ebok24 View Post

 

Right now I'm using Standard and the picture is great except for people's faces, which seem a bit whited out.

 

Thanks for the help in advance.

The standard settings really only require a few adjustments to give you the most accurate picture this set is capable of:

- Under advanced settings, turn dynamic contrast off

- Under advanced settings, switch color space from native to auto

 

I'd also set backlight to 12, though this will depend on how much ambient light is in your room; you may want more or less.

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post #4975 of 5204 Old 04-16-2014, 11:05 AM
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What is the best way to use AMP with blu ray movies? Blu ray set at 24p or 60p? Does AMP play better with 24p or 60p? Thanks.


24p is better for blu-ray movies since it doesn't have to do a disproportionate pulldown. This is regardless of whether you're using AMP or not. AMP should function better with the actual framerate as well.

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post #4976 of 5204 Old 04-17-2014, 09:11 AM
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I have a question for everyone. My set seems to only flashlight and cloud under different light patterns. I attached a picture of a credit scene from Fargo the TV series. Backlight is 13, brightness is 37, and contrast is 90. I can watch some sources and I'll get heavy flashlighting on the top left and bottom left corner; however, I have no flashlighting or clouding in these credits. I've noticed this before, but have never taken a picture till now. This is using the STANDARD option as well.

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post #4977 of 5204 Old 04-17-2014, 12:31 PM
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Well, I've had the UN60F7100 for a couple months and finally decided to have the picture professionally calibrated. I upgraded from a Sony 46" LCD to this set, and after trying many of the suggestions in this thread as well as calibrating my best via the Disney WOW disc, still was left underwhelmed. I'd always wondered about professional calibration -- even when I was overly pleased with the picture on my Sony. Now that I've had it done, all I can say is that I'll probably never go without it again.

It's not cheap, but I am absolutely amazed at the additional detail I can see post-calibration. I don't know how to adequately describe what I am seeing, other than to say that things just appear more vibrant. Almost to the point that they appear to almost be 3D. I suspect this is because the detail in the background is now so much crisper, so much clearer.

I primarily watch sports via DirectTV, and I can't tell you how many times I've now found my eye being caught -- not by the primary subject or focus of the shot -- but by a secondary subject or image in the background. For example, while watching golf, instead of my eye immediately being drawn the golfer as the primary subject of the shot, I find my eye sometimes being immediately drawn to the gallery, or the scenery in the far off background. I assume this has a lot to do with the black levels now being appropriately adjusted, allowing for more detail to become visible. I just wish I'd had this done prior to The Masters!!!!

Obviously, again, professional calibration is not cheap, but it made such a drastic difference in the image quality with this set, that I can't see myself ever being totally satisfied with a future flat-screen purchase without it. And if anyone is interested, the guy that provided the service for me is here: http://hdtvbychadb.com. He was very friendly, professional, shared the before and after results with me via the software he uses, and was in and out in about four hours. He didn't mind me watching him do his thing and asking questions throughout the process. He even set up separate day and night Picture Modes for me. I'd highly recommend him, and he travels pretty much anywhere.

As one who was always "on the fence" regarding professional calibration, I just wanted to share my experience with those that may also be undecided. I can now say that I am extremely satisfied with the purchase of this set, bundled with the professional calibration of course!
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post #4978 of 5204 Old 04-17-2014, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weezerfan84 View Post

I can watch some sources and I'll get heavy flashlighting on the top left and bottom left corner; however, I have no flashlighting or clouding in these credits. I've noticed this before, but have never taken a picture till now. This is using the STANDARD option as well.

Standard Picture Mode has micro-dimming that adjusts the backlight automatically for darker scenes to reduce flashlighting and clouding.
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post #4979 of 5204 Old 04-17-2014, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oak1a View Post

I primarily watch sports via DirectTV, and I can't tell you how many times I've now found my eye being caught -- not by the primary subject or focus of the shot -- but by a secondary subject or image in the background. For example, while watching golf, instead of my eye immediately being drawn the golfer as the primary subject of the shot, I find my eye sometimes being immediately drawn to the gallery, or the scenery in the far off background. I assume this has a lot to do with the black levels now being appropriately adjusted, allowing for more detail to become visible.

I also have DirecTV and have noticed with Fw. Ver. 1122, the F7100 is very sensitive to Sports.

Specifically, I have to adjust the Sharpness setting down to 5 to reduce fast motion macro-blocking / MPEG noise.
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post #4980 of 5204 Old 04-17-2014, 01:24 PM
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Just found this forum!

 

Asking for some input:

 

I can get a 55" F7100 for around $1290 - openbox, not damaged (from what i can see) but it has all the accessories, just no box...

 

or

 

I can get 55" F7100 new for about $1599 - but I'm sure if I wait till the '14's come out it might drop 1 or 2 hundred dollars...

 

or

 

I can step up to the '14 H7150 and spend $1699

 

My questions are:

 

Are openbox tv's to be trusted at best buy? (I'll be getting the tv from best buy because I have gift cards)

 

I pretty much know the differences between F7100 and the H7150...but am I gonna really be able to tell the difference - not a gamer, just watch regular tv, blue ray DVDs, and now netflix and the like (although my AT&T U-Verse internet at 18mbs slows down to a crawl, around 1-5mbs, during peak hours - plus I live next to an elevated train so I'm guessing the Electro Magnetic Interference doesn't help either).

 

I think I like the new '14 stands as well, they have a smaller footprint so i'll be able to use the stand on a mantle rather than the 2" wider spider legs of the '13s...

 

Any help will help, as of right now though I'm going thru a bit of analysis paralysis!

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Samsung Un60f7100 60 Inch 3d Ultra Slim Smart Led Hdtv , Samsung Un46f8000 46 Inch 3d Ultra Slim Smart Led Hdtv
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