Official Samsung UNXXF7100 Owners Thread - Page 82 - AVS Forum
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post #2431 of 5344 Old 09-11-2013, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vam724 View Post

Your black level needs to be on NORMAL, or you will lose a ton of detail in blacks and as it appears will crush it. Also tweak your "White Balance."

Thanks.

Incidentally I upgraded from fw1103 to 1111 (latest) and it appeared the Micro Dimming in Standard mode is a little less aggressive to the point that I actually prefer it over Movie Mode because it gives better blacks now. I see most of you are using Movie Mode so I guess that's the 'professionals' choice but I'm still on the fence. I will try to mess with White Balance next.

Vam724- with your settings you say I need a model manufactured in June 2013. Why is that? I mounted my TV on the wall and now I can't see the sticker to know when it was manufactured.
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post #2432 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhunter85 View Post

Does anyone know how to get the screen to match the size as my PC desktop? This wasn't an issue with my last TV--so I am at a loss.

Are you running ATI Radeon Graphics?

If that's the case, then you probably need to go into the Catalyst Control Center for the drivers and change the Scaling Options (under My Digital Flat-Panels in the current drivers). The Radeon cards under-scale by default which can be a real pain in the neck. I think you have to set this for every mode, so if you're running software that might output different resolutions and refresh rates, you'll need to set scaling for each of them. You set the resolution and refresh rate under Desktop Management->Desktop Properties.

Hope this helps.
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post #2433 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hip2bSquare View Post

Anyone know why im getting some frame lag during gaming? What settings are you guys using? (Pirates cove?)

Anyone? Pirates Cove? What gaming settings do you guys use?
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post #2434 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

First, Micro-Dimming does not work in Movie Mode (thankfully).

The HDTV's processors detect a darker scene and changes the brightness (controls black level), contrast (controls white luminance) and overall backlight (LED light intensity) setting.

Micro-Dimming works in Standard, Natural and Dynamic Modes.

I wish informed people would stop using the term "micro dimming" to describe this behavior. There is nothing micro about it; it is full screen global dimming in response to content. This has been around (and hated) in Samsung TVs for years. The correct term is "CE Dimming", used by Samsung in their service menu back when it could be disabled there.

Using the wrong term creates unnecessary confusion with actual micro dimming that some TVs are capable of.
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post #2435 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rurifan View Post

I wish informed people would stop using the term "micro dimming" to describe this behavior. There is nothing micro about it; it is full screen global dimming in response to content. This has been around (and hated) in Samsung TVs for years. The correct term is "CE Dimming", used by Samsung in their service menu back when it could be disabled there.

Using the wrong term creates unnecessary confusion with actual micro dimming that some TVs are capable of.
Valid point. I call it "Macro dimming."
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post #2436 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 03:29 PM
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Actually...

Micro Dimming is Samsung's marketing response to local dimming (which is why the name is similar). However, Samsung does not actually dim the LEDs of the backlight, so it is not really local dimming. Instead, it artificially tries to create a similar effect by changing the contrast of different zones of the picture. Micro Dimming Plus is just an improved version of the Micro Dimming, providing a slightly better number of zones (300) and changing the color and sharpness in addition to the contrast. Micro Dimming Ultimate claims to have twice the number of zones (600).

Samsung’s TVs equipped with Micro Dimming are also equipped with CE Dimming. CE Dimming does dim the LEDs of the panel, but not locally. It dims the whole panel on darker scene.

source: rtings.com
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post #2437 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hip2bSquare View Post

Anyone? Pirates Cove? What gaming settings do you guys use?

Standard Mode (Game Mode)

Backlight 14 (Eco Sensor 10 or Eco Sensor off)
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharp 20
Color 44
Tint 50/50
Picture Size - Screen Fit or 16:9
Advanced Settings - Dynamic Contrast off, Black Tone off, Flesh Tone 0, and RGB Only off
Color Space - Auto
White Balance 25 26 26 16 25 25
10p White Balance (not available)
Gamma 0
Picture Options
Color Temp Warm2
Dig Clean View – Off, Auto or Low
Mpeg – Off, Auto or Low / HDMI black level- Normal: Xbox360- RGB / Expanded
Film - [ greyed out ]
Auto Motion Plus – Off
Cinema Black Low, Medium or High

Apply Picture Source - Current Source
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post #2438 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rurifan View Post

I wish informed people would stop using the term "micro dimming" to describe this behavior. There is nothing micro about it; it is full screen global dimming in response to content. This has been around (and hated) in Samsung TVs for years. The correct term is "CE Dimming", used by Samsung in their service menu back when it could be disabled there.

Using the wrong term creates unnecessary confusion with actual micro dimming that some TVs are capable of.

I get what you mean, you are right- but that's Samsung's term- why use "correct" terminology that would only confuse people more?

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN55F7100AFXZA-features

For example: Samsung got HDMI Black levels mixed-up in translation.

Samsung has zero plans for re-mapping HDMI Black Level Normal and Low so....rolleyes.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by chappy16775 View Post

Actually...

Micro Dimming is Samsung's marketing response to local dimming (which is why the name is similar). However, Samsung does not actually dim the LEDs of the backlight, so it is not really local dimming. Instead, it artificially tries to create a similar effect by changing the contrast of different zones of the picture. Micro Dimming Plus is just an improved version of the Micro Dimming, providing a slightly better number of zones (300) and changing the color and sharpness in addition to the contrast. Micro Dimming Ultimate claims to have twice the number of zones (600).

Samsung’s TVs equipped with Micro Dimming are also equipped with CE Dimming. CE Dimming does dim the LEDs of the panel, but not locally. It dims the whole panel on darker scene.

source: rtings.com

Now Local Dimming is with backlight technology (the edge-lit LED has no backlight).

So should we not use backlight setting as a term? The edge-lit F7100 has that setting.
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post #2439 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 08:54 PM
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I recently built a new media center. I decided on the 65" and couldn't be happier on the results.

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post #2440 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 09:03 PM
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For anyone looking for a more vivid picture but doesn't like the factory settings or "macro dimming", here are my settings after driving my wife to near madness over the past few weeks changing settings.
First of all for anyone with digital cable (twc/Comcast) make sure your cable box is set to native. This allows the tv to do the up converting rather than the cable box.

Mode: movie
Backlight: 14
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 20
Color: 55
Tint: 50/50

Dynamic contrast: low
Black tone: off
Flesh: 0
Rgb: off
Color space: native
White balance: factory
10p white: off
Gamma: -1

Color tone: warm1
Digital noise: off
Mpeg: off
Hdmi black: grayed out (due to cable box output)
Film: off
Auto motion: off
Cinema black: low (helps with mild flashlighting when watching bluray and letterbox).
Hope this helps somebody. I am just more partial to a vivid picture but thought the factory settings were a little overkill. I finally found a happy medium. I know most people on the forum enjoy a "realistic picture" but to me the picture that looks the best overall is more appealing. Let me know what you think...
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post #2441 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorDmp View Post

I recently built a new media center. I decided on the 65" and couldn't be happier on the results.


Um....damn! Nice work! Is that a street glow? Lol
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post #2442 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 09:07 PM
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@jvandyne

I am using an NVIDIA card, but I will play around with settings. It never occurred to me it might be a video card issue! So thanks for the heads up!
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post #2443 of 5344 Old 09-12-2013, 11:58 PM
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Calibrated all modes of my UN75F7100 using Disney's WOW disc. Stuck between Standard and Movie mode. Dynamic and Natural modes look horrible by comparison. Movie mode seems to look slightly better for brighter scenes and has the cool effect of turning off the LED's when the screen go's black. For some reason it does not do this in Standard mode. The downside is the clouding is much more apparent in Movie mode when screen is black or mostly black . Standard mode looks better in dark scenes and the clouding is much less apparent. I wish either Movie mode had less clouding or Standard mode could turn off the LED's. Then i could pick one for sure. Posting my settings for both movie and standard modes below. I personally think Warm 1 looks better than Warm 2. I know most use Warm 2 as this is supposed to look the most lifelike. But, when flipping back between both modes on multiple sources it just looks like Warm 2 adds a yellow tint and to me Warm 1 always looks better. If you haven't experimented i suggest checking out Warm 1. Also note i started from scratch before the calibration and did not adjust White Balance, 10pt White Balance, or Color Space as i do not know how to go about doing this and did not believe other users settings would apply to the 75 inch. If anyone has any info on adjusting White Balance/10pt Balance/Color Space would love to know.

Movie Mode
Backlight 16 (Eco 7)
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharp 10
Color 50
Tint 50/50

Picture Size - Screen Fit

Advanced Settings - Dynamic Contrast off, Black Tone off, Flesh Tone 0, and RGB Only off

Color Space - Auto

White Balance unchanged

10p White Balance - Off

Gamma 0

Picture Options
Color Temp Warm1
Dig Clean View - off
MPEG Noise - off
Auto Motion Plus – Off

Standard Mode
Backlight 14 (Eco 6)
Contrast 100
Brightness 52
Sharp 10
Color 42
Tint 50/50

Picture Size - Screen Fit

Advanced Settings - Dynamic Contrast off, Black Tone off, Flesh Tone 0, and RGB Only off

Color Space - Auto

White Balance unchanged

10p White Balance - Off

Gamma -3

Picture Options
Color Temp Warm1
Dig Clean View - off
MPEG Noise - off
Auto Motion Plus – Off
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post #2444 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

Standard Mode (Game Mode)

Backlight 14 (Eco Sensor 10 or Eco Sensor off)
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharp 20
Color 44
Tint 50/50
Picture Size - Screen Fit or 16:9
Advanced Settings - Dynamic Contrast off, Black Tone off, Flesh Tone 0, and RGB Only off
Color Space - Auto
White Balance 25 26 26 16 25 25
10p White Balance
1 0 -1 -3
2 +1 0 -1
3 +2+2 0
4 +1+2+1
5 +2+2 0
6 0 0 0
7 0 0 0
8 -2 -2 -2
9 0 0 0
10 0 0 0
Gamma 0
Picture Options
Color Temp Warm2
Dig Clean View – Off, Auto or Low
Mpeg – Off, Auto or Low / HDMI black level- Normal: Xbox360- RGB / Expanded
Film - [ greyed out ]
Auto Motion Plus – Off
Cinema Black Low, Medium or High

Apply Picture Source - Current Source

Thanks bud
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post #2445 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 06:53 AM
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@Wirth05

Its the IKEA DIODER LED. Works pretty well but not long enough to cover all the edges of the TV. I'm shopping around for a longer one. Any Ideas?
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post #2446 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 09:09 AM
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I was wondering whether this is a special case for me and I should return it again. I bought and exchange 2 TV sets. Both have similar issue when working under smart hub and no signal case.

Really headache!



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post #2447 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 11:05 AM
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How "black" should the screen be in Movie Mode???

I have the 55F7100 and in Movie Mode I set backlight to 8, Brightness 45 and Contrast 95. Cinema Black is Low. Everything else (Dynamic contrast, Black tone, etc...) is Off.
In a completely dark room, on black screens (like the opening or closing credits) I can still see the backlight! In other words, the screen is not completely black. I would expect that except for the credits themselves the rest of the screen should almost appear like the TV is off (i.e. completely black). Are my expectations too high?

When I set to Standard mode the screen dims in this settings (Micro dimming) and it's better but then the rest of the movie sucks.


Is this normal? I read some of you raving about the black level and not sure if what I see is normal.

thanks
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post #2448 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorDmp View Post

I recently built a new media center. I decided on the 65" and couldn't be happier on the results.

Looks great!

I purchased the Dioder kit as well. Separated the kit so that two pieces are on top of the set, and one along the right and left sides.
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post #2449 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pwang2 View Post

I was wondering whether this is a special case for me and I should return it again. I bought and exchange 2 TV sets. Both have similar issue when working under smart hub and no signal case.

Really headache! ]

Is the clouding visible when watching content?

In all honesty, no LED panel is going to be perfect. On my F8000, when there is no signal, I can see a little clouding, especially if I turn off all the lights in the room. However, as soon as I feed it a signal, the clouding disappears (think the micro-dimming and Smart LED functions kick in).
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post #2450 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ucsdsig View Post

Is the clouding visible when watching content?

In all honesty, no LED panel is going to be perfect. On my F8000, when there is no signal, I can see a little clouding, especially if I turn off all the lights in the room. However, as soon as I feed it a signal, the clouding disappears (think the micro-dimming and Smart LED functions kick in).
When watching black and white content clouding is still visible; like the crew list after the movie. But the most unbearable scenario is when switching to smart hub. as F7100 cpu is not so fast, the cloud will exist for about 5 second or more even with some unsmooth blink.

I know there is no perfect LED, This is the second TV I exchanged, the first one got serious black and white clouding. this one is colorful cloud. My case should be similar to ucsdsig. But I have certain OCD for this kind of flaw. I am thinking about upgrading to plasma P8000. Anyone could let me know whether plasma could ease my pain?

Thanks.
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post #2451 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwang2 View Post

I was wondering whether this is a special case for me and I should return it again. I bought and exchange 2 TV sets. Both have similar issue when working under smart hub and no signal case.

Really headache!


This kind of clouding may have been created during shipping since even Samsung quality (as bas as there are) would have rejected this most likely. Well no matter how the clouding became present, it is NOT acceptable and all decent panels will not look this way on this model TV. Take it back and don't think twice. Where did you purchase this TV? Mabye the store is mis-handeling their TV inventory since you got two in a row from the store. A typical F7100 panel may have some flashlighting but clouding was very minimal to none on this seriesTV in every store I have been to that sells them. Good luck with your next one!
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post #2452 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mgh26 View Post

This kind of clouding may have been created during shipping since even Samsung quality (as bas as there are) would have rejected this most likely. Well no matter how the clouding became present, it is NOT acceptable and all decent panels will not look this way on this model TV. Take it back and don't think twice. Where did you purchase this TV? Mabye the store is mis-handeling their TV inventory since you got two in a row from the store. A typical F7100 panel may have some flashlighting but clouding was very minimal to none on this seriesTV in every store I have been to that sells them. Good luck with your next one!

I bought it from Best Buy just 2 blocks away from my home. Last time they sent their people to replace my previous one and give me this one. The more I want to end the purchase easy, the worse consequence it goes. I will talk to them again in one hour. Cross fingers and pray!
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post #2453 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 03:19 PM
 
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Originally Posted by pwang2 View Post

I was wondering whether this is a special case for me and I should return it again. I bought and exchange 2 TV sets. Both have similar issue when working under smart hub and no signal case.

Really headache!



I've never seen colorful clouding like that. It's definitely not normal and I'm thinking that your set was abused during shipping. Bring that one back for sure. Don't feel bad, I returned 4 sets to Best Buy because of various issues. I'm most likely going to return the one I have now back to Costco because of a "Pencil Line". I have a tiny bit of clouding only when I'm in Movie mode or int he Smart Hub.

Yours is unacceptable IMO. It looks like it fell flat on its face during shipping. Pick up the next one yourself if you can. My Best Buy let me bring them in as is. I didn't have to rebox them or anything. Just make sure you bring all the accessories.
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post #2454 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwang2 View Post

When watching black and white content clouding is still visible; like the crew list after the movie. But the most unbearable scenario is when switching to smart hub. as F7100 cpu is not so fast, the cloud will exist for about 5 second or more even with some unsmooth blink.

I know there is no perfect LED, This is the second TV I exchanged, the first one got serious black and white clouding. this one is colorful cloud. My case should be similar to ucsdsig. But I have certain OCD for this kind of flaw. I am thinking about upgrading to plasma P8000. Anyone could let me know whether plasma could ease my pain?

Thanks.

I would definitely return the set. When I had my 75 inch F7100, I could see clouding when switching inputs and on movie credit screens, but it definitely wasn't as bad as your set.

The F8500 plasma is a great set. If it came in a 75 inch size, I would have purchased one. However, I'm extremely satisfied with the 75 inch F8000 I ended up with. Good luck!
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post #2455 of 5344 Old 09-13-2013, 09:16 PM
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Owner of a brand new 60F7100. PQ is great! I'm aware that the panel might not be manufactured by samsung, I'm also aware that there could be clouding, flashlighting etc, but right now I'm focused on viewing actual content and I'm enjoying every bit of the picture. Main thing is not to deliberately look for flaws because once you do and you do find something which is highly probable, you cannot stop staring at it and looking out for it. The entire experience goes down the drain. Whatever for, when the whole point of getting a tv is to watch actual content. smile.gif
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post #2456 of 5344 Old 09-14-2013, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
How "black" should the screen be in Movie Mode???

I have the 55F7100 and in Movie Mode I set backlight to 8, Brightness 45 and Contrast 95. Cinema Black is Low. Everything else (Dynamic contrast, Black tone, etc...) is Off.
In a completely dark room, on black screens (like the opening or closing credits) I can still see the backlight! In other words, the screen is not completely black. I would expect that except for the credits themselves the rest of the screen should almost appear like the TV is off (i.e. completely black). Are my expectations too high?

When I set to Standard mode the screen dims in this settings (Micro dimming) and it's better but then the rest of the movie sucks.


Is this normal? I read some of you raving about the black level and not sure if what I see is normal.

I think you might not get total black under the conditions you tried to (or any for that matter). But I am amazed at the black/white contrast I have during regular viewing in a dim room. Your settings for backlite,brightness, and contrast are close to mine, so maybe we have similar panels. I found mine liked blacktone set to darkest, backlite 8, brightness 50 and contrast 100. Raising brightness will lighten blacks, but blacktone will darken it for you. Raising your contrast up to 100 will give you whitest whites as long as you don't loose all your white detail. Also, when I started using movie mode, I was able to raise my sharpness up to 80, but settled at 70 with very good detail, whitch also made black level better. I started to get grainy faces with sharpness at 80. My sttings may not work for you, but you should get to a point that it bordering on increadible. Hope this helps:)
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post #2457 of 5344 Old 09-14-2013, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorDmp View Post

I recently built a new media center. I decided on the 65" and couldn't be happier on the results.

Nice set up...
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post #2458 of 5344 Old 09-14-2013, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chappy16775 View Post

How "black" should the screen be in Movie Mode???

I have the 55F7100 and in Movie Mode I set backlight to 8, Brightness 45 and Contrast 95. Cinema Black is Low. Everything else (Dynamic contrast, Black tone, etc...) is Off.
In a completely dark room, on black screens (like the opening or closing credits) I can still see the backlight! In other words, the screen is not completely black. I would expect that except for the credits themselves the rest of the screen should almost appear like the TV is off (i.e. completely black). Are my expectations too high?

When I set to Standard mode the screen dims in this settings (Micro dimming) and it's better but then the rest of the movie sucks.

Sounds like most F7100s.

Only a few plasmas or the discontinued LED Sharp Elite give you those really deep black levels in a dim/dark room.

I like the F7100's black levels as they look real inky in a well-lit room.

Drop the blacklight to 6 and experiment with HDMI black level (if possible).

Daytime viewing does give that "TV off" black level for closing movie credits.
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post #2459 of 5344 Old 09-14-2013, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pwang2 View Post

I was wondering whether this is a special case for me and I should return it again. I bought and exchange 2 TV sets. Both have similar issue when working under smart hub and no signal case.

Really headache!


Unless your backlight is set at 25....try again. wink.gif

I hope you get a winner next time.
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post #2460 of 5344 Old 09-14-2013, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by congster View Post

Owner of a brand new 60F7100. PQ is great! I'm aware that the panel might not be manufactured by samsung, I'm also aware that there could be clouding, flashlighting etc, but right now I'm focused on viewing actual content and I'm enjoying every bit of the picture. Main thing is not to deliberately look for flaws because once you do and you do find something which is highly probable, you cannot stop staring at it and looking out for it. The entire experience goes down the drain. Whatever for, when the whole point of getting a tv is to watch actual content. smile.gif

+1, Congster. I'm glad you are enjoying your new tv.
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Samsung Un60f7100 60 Inch 3d Ultra Slim Smart Led Hdtv , Samsung Un46f8000 46 Inch 3d Ultra Slim Smart Led Hdtv
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