Official Samsung UNXXF7100 Owners Thread - Page 91 - AVS Forum
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post #2701 of 5328 Old 10-08-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mgh26 View Post

Panel replacement is not really a big problem to get done at your home. Just make sure the tech has a good flat area to work with a protected surface. I used my coffee table with 2 layers of very soft cotton towels and no damage occured. Also make sure the tech does not over tighten the screws on the back of the TV panel or the TV can be damaged. A tork screw driver using actual tork specs is really the best way to get it re-assembeled without damaging the TV after the panel is properly positioned for assembly.

Thanks for the advice. Again, I'm mainly worried about the TV's bezel cracking or distorting during the swap out, as Wirth05 reported in post #2612 of this thread, but more likely than not it will go fine, and if they do damage it, they're responsible for fixing it anyway; just more waiting on my part.

As per your suggestion, I'll be sure to have a safe, padded area prepped for the panel swap, and I'll keep an eye on how he tightens the screw. Hopefully everything goes well enough for me to leave a positive follow-up post.
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post #2702 of 5328 Old 10-08-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by XBRSteve View Post

It seems like your ok with that. I could not live with it occasionally turning off.
I am not sure whether the self on-off is a problem of the TV or receiver since both go on and off at the same time. Again, it only happened twice in four months that I know of and never while I was paying attention to a program.
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Originally Posted by GPtimes2 View Post

Here is a samsung link for TV turning off. It's another long shot, but maybe help someone. I just did a google search for TV turning itself off.


http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/popup/iframe/pop_troubleshooting_fr.jsp?idx=28929&modelname=LT-P227W
It is not just a blank picture. The TV turns off and the red light is on. Nevertheless, it may be worthwhile to do a total reset when I have some time. I appreciate the link. Thank you.
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post #2703 of 5328 Old 10-08-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jorimt View Post

Thanks for the advice. Again, I'm mainly worried about the TV's bezel cracking or distorting during the swap out, as Wirth05 reported in post #2612 of this thread, but more likely than not it will go fine, and if they do damage it, they're responsible for fixing it anyway; just more waiting on my part.

As per your suggestion, I'll be sure to have a safe, padded area prepped for the panel swap, and I'll keep an eye on how he tightens the screw. Hopefully everything goes well enough for me to leave a positive follow-up post.

Yea they really botched my repair. The screen is worse than before and the bezel issue. Good news is that samsung was very good about sending someone else out to take a look at again. They are coming tomorrow. The first guy was a tard and was using a drill to tighten the screws and was very rough with the bezel and back panel. Samsung has been very supportive and easy to work with throughout the process tho. I'll let you know what the new technician says tomorrow. Best of luck...
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post #2704 of 5328 Old 10-09-2013, 05:00 PM
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Why is it that when I search for the newest firmware I don't see version 1113?
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post #2705 of 5328 Old 10-09-2013, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post

Why is it that when I search for the newest firmware I don't see version 1113?
Samsung is ALWAYS behind on their posted firmware Version update downloads. Doing a Live On-Line update is the only way to get Version 1113 at the moment. It seems that they look for feedback for a while from the people who do the automatic or live updates before the actual published release/download. There have been releases that actually never got posted or avalible for download (officially published release version's) due to reported bugs discovered after the avalible live update. The tier 1 techs NEVER get advanced information regarrding these releases either. This has caused out of sequence posted on-line updates but not very often. SO.... In the past, there has been posted comments that mention how us TV owners seem to be doing most of the post engineering quality verification that somhow slipped by the firmware design groups. What a way to run a business..... This is not the case with this Version though. GREAT Picture!!! Web Browser still has a few glitches though.
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post #2706 of 5328 Old 10-09-2013, 07:44 PM
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Can you explain how to do a live online update? Is it through the menu on my TV?
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post #2707 of 5328 Old 10-09-2013, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post

Can you explain how to do a live online update? Is it through the menu on my TV?
Sure. Here's the steps you need to do.
1. On the Touch Pad Remote, press the "Menu" button..
2. Using the Touch Pad, slide your finger downwards until 'Support" is highlighted..
3. Press down in the center of the Touch Pad to select "Support".
4. Using the Touch Pad, slide your finger downwards until "Software Update" is highlighted..
5. Press down in the center of the Touch Pad to display "Update Now"..
6. Press down in the center of the Touch Pad on the displayed text "Update Now" to start the live update process.

If there is no avalible firmware update newer than the current version already installed in your TV, you will get a message that indicates that. Otherwise a new version is displayed ready for download/installation. Hope this helps
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post #2708 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 05:37 AM
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Thanks you. That's how I've been doing it so far. On my TV after I go into software update it asks me if I want to download via USB or online. I always chose online. I tried it last night and version 1113 wasn't available. It told me I had the latest software which was 1083 I believe. Dunno what's up with that.
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post #2709 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post

Thanks you. That's how I've been doing it so far. On my TV after I go into software update it asks me if I want to download via USB or online. I always chose online. I tried it last night and version 1113 wasn't available. It told me I had the latest software which was 1083 I believe. Dunno what's up with that.
As far as I remember, there has never been a version 1083. I think the 7100 went from ver 1014 to 1102 or close to that. What is your exact model TV?
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post #2710 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post

Thanks you. That's how I've been doing it so far. On my TV after I go into software update it asks me if I want to download via USB or online. I always chose online. I tried it last night and version 1113 wasn't available. It told me I had the latest software which was 1083 I believe. Dunno what's up with that.
Have you connected your TV to your WiFi or Ethernet? Are you able to get your Smart Hub apps to work, such as Netflix?
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post #2711 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 12:12 PM
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Hey All

 

Just got a new samsung 7100 series last night and been reading through the threads and had some questions for someone who is not as good with electronics as some of you are..

 

1- I saw a bunch of people post about how to set up the tv to deal with the auto dim issues. I put my tv on picture dynamic and it seems to be really bright as I like it. Does leaving on this mode in anyway hurt the tv long term? And if using dynamic is easy fix why do others look to tweak certain categories on the tv picture in a custom manor?

 

2- I have an X-1 box from xfinity. The model number does not show up in a search. First question is does anyone know the box model number for the Xfinity X-1 , hd, dvr box? I was told it is all the same model number but comcast has been no help at all and the one they gave me did not work. 2- Does the smart tv look shows up when I use the voice through my cable channels as well or no unless the model number is added correctly?

 

Thanks for all your help

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post #2712 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 04:32 PM
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Guys I am on version 1037. My smart hub works fine so does Netflix. My TV is a 7100.
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post #2713 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 04:46 PM
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Guys I am on version 1037. My smart hub works fine so does Netflix. My TV is a 7100

Check the back of the tv for exact model#. Just in case you have a ES7100 instead of the F7100 which would explain the discrepency. Hope this helps:)
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post #2714 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 05:11 PM
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I must have the ES model. I can't take my TV off the wall but that makes sense. What's the difference?
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post #2715 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by youlo193 View Post
 

Thanks for the ideas on that. I hadn't considered a timer to be the cause. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be it either. I tested a theory that maybe it was a bad HDMI, losing signal and causing the TV to turn off...but no, same problem arising through running the TV connected to the cable directly.

I still haven't had a chance to record our settings, update, and reset, but hopefully I can get to that later tonight. If we have no luck there, I guess I have to contact support.

I appreciate all the help, guys!


Well, it looks like the update has fixed the power-cycling issue. Can't thank you guys enough. Early days yet, I guess, but we have gone from the problem occurring after letting the TV sit idle with no remote input for 20mins or so and then power-cycling if you use the remote, to going almost two days now.

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post #2716 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragin Cajun View Post

I must have the ES model. I can't take my TV off the wall but that makes sense. What's the difference?
The ES is last year's model. You can also check your box for the model number.
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post #2717 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 05:55 PM
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anyone?

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post #2718 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by emileg View Post

The ES is last year's model. You can also check your box for the model number.
The Samsung Logo lights up on the ES-7100 but not on the F-7100. Thats really easy to notice.
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post #2719 of 5328 Old 10-10-2013, 08:31 PM
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Hey All

Just got a new samsung 7100 series last night and been reading through the threads and had some questions for someone who is not as good with electronics as some of you are..

1- I saw a bunch of people post about how to set up the tv to deal with the auto dim issues. I put my tv on picture dynamic and it seems to be really bright as I like it. Does leaving on this mode in anyway hurt the tv long term? And if using dynamic is easy fix why do others look to tweak certain categories on the tv picture in a custom manor?

2- I have an X-1 box from xfinity. The model number does not show up in a search. First question is does anyone know the box model number for the Xfinity X-1 , hd, dvr box? I was told it is all the same model number but comcast has been no help at all and the one they gave me did not work. 2- Does the smart tv look shows up when I use the voice through my cable channels as well or no unless the model number is added correctly?

Thanks for all your help

To answer your first question, No, Dynamic will not hurt your TV in the long term. However, it will raise the energy usage, due to the increase in light flow at those settings.

As for why others would prefer to use workarounds for the" auto dim issue," instead of setting the TV to Dynamic, is because many on this forum (myself among them) are "videophiles," meaning while the Dynamic picture mode is bright and vivid, it is the least accurate mode on this TV, and also locks you out of the advanced picture options for the set.

Also, the "auto dim issue" is present on the Dynamic picture mode as well (switch between any channel and pay close attention to the channel number during the transition; it should be heavily dimmed), though I believe it is less apparent in Dynamic because of that picture mode's default high contrast and backlight level. The only picture mode that does not have this dimming issue is "Movie."

Unfortunately, I can't answer your second question, since I watch very little TV, and use an antenna as my source.

Hope that helps.
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post #2720 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jorimt View Post


To answer your first question, No, Dynamic will not hurt your TV in the long term. However, it will raise the energy usage, due to the increase in light flow at those settings.

As for why others would prefer to use workarounds for the" auto dim issue," instead of setting the TV to Dynamic, is because many on this forum (myself among them) are "videophiles," meaning while the Dynamic picture mode is bright and vivid, it is the least accurate mode on this TV, and also locks you out of the advanced picture options for the set.

Also, the "auto dim issue" is present on the Dynamic picture mode as well (switch between any channel and pay close attention to the channel number during the transition; it should be heavily dimmed), though I believe it is less apparent in Dynamic because of that picture mode's default high contrast and backlight level. The only picture mode that does not have this dimming issue is "Movie."

Unfortunately, I can't answer your second question, since I watch very little TV, and use an antenna as my source.

Hope that helps.


It does thanks for the answer. What settings would you recommend I use? I found so many in the 90 plus pages. What are you running with?

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post #2721 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jorimt View Post

Thanks for the advice. Again, I'm mainly worried about the TV's bezel cracking or distorting during the swap out, as Wirth05 reported in post #2612 of this thread, but more likely than not it will go fine, and if they do damage it, they're responsible for fixing it anyway; just more waiting on my part.

As per your suggestion, I'll be sure to have a safe, padded area prepped for the panel swap, and I'll keep an eye on how he tightens the screw. Hopefully everything goes well enough for me to leave a positive follow-up post.

Let me know how your new panel goes... I have the one step down model (F6400) that I bought a couple months ago from Best Buy. I had minor clouding and called into Samsung to send in a request for service. Samsung has been really nice and quick with helping me. The service tech guy called me right away and he already order me a new panel and it took about a week to get to me.

When he came to my place and looked at my TV he said that I had minor clouding. I am pretty OCD about the TV and there was just this one bright cloud spot in the upper left corner that was bothering me.

What I found interesting from the tech guy (who has been working for Samsung for 5 years) is that he said when Samsung makes a model of a tv they of course make thousands of replacements at the same time. So when people call in they can exchange them. The problem is that the panels are never perfect. Your basically gambling your chances to see if you get a "good panel." If you replace it, it could be better or it could be worst.

Now when Samsung runs out of replacements, to when the TV was first manufactored, they start building new ones with sometimes minor fixes they have experienced in the past. It's called a "Prime Panel." To which you have a much higher percentage to get a better more perfect panel.

I went ahead and replaced my panel and unfortunately the clouding was A LOT worse... The tech told me all of this before I replaced it and he recommended not to do it but he said it's my decision. I went ahead and did it anyway just thinking that it might be better. He said after he replaced it he can't put the old one back on because after they open the new box (New Panel) they have this whole restocking fee stuff... Tech said no LED tv is perfect and they are known for clouding a bit. Plasmas are the ones that have the perfect blacks and whites. Though, I like a picture that "pops" like samsungs do.

Well he said that I should replace it again when the "prime panels" come in and to call him in 90 days. He said he doesn't get paid if he comes out before 90 days to replace it again. (Why should I care if he gets paid when I paid $1400 for a new tv, Samsung should cater to me). It's basically another gamble just wondering if the prime panels do come it. Tech said I can replace the tv 3 times before samsung gives me a full refund.

I don't know what to do or if the tech is telling me is 100% true. So i'm deciding if I should wait and see if the clouding goes away in 90 days and call back then. Or just take my chances with another panel. I guess I have a 1 year warrenty with it. Tech was trying to make me feel bad if I call back within a couple weeks because it's saying to Samsung that the TECH didn't do his job. Confusing situation but hope this information helps with those replacing panels. And if anyone has any ideas on what I should do would be great appreciated.
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post #2722 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 11:49 AM
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It does thanks for the answer. What settings would you recommend I use? I found so many in the 90 plus pages. What are you running with?

Well, if you prefer a brighter picture, I wouldn't go with my exact settings. I tend to like a dimmer, more subtle image, and my tv is placed in front of my windows, so I get very little glare during the daytime. It entirely depends on your preference, seating position, and what severity of light hits the screen during the day.

I can say, that if you want the most accurate colors out of the box, you should set the picture mode to "Movie," (which also defeats the "auto dimming" issue entirely) then set the "Color Space" to "Custom" under "Advanced Settings." And finally, for the most accurate color temprature, set "Color Tone" to "Warm2" under "Picture Option." If that looks too reddish or dim to you, set it to "Warm1." if that setting is also too reddish to you, set it to your preference. "Warm2" is simply the most accurate.

For brightness, my test patterns show that the correct setting for this TV is 46, and for contrast, anything between 90-95 is fine.

As for sharpness, to preface, the TV can only add edge enhancment to the original source; you can set sharpness to 100 and you won't actually be adding any more detail, which is why I keep mine at zero. That said, depending on your seating distance, and the quailty of the original source, it's basically preference. For instance, most TV signals are 720p or 1080i, and depending on your cable provider, the signal can be a little blurry/blocky when compared to, say, a reference quality Blu-ray. So, bringing the sharpness up, especially when viewing the TV from a good distance, can't hurt.

For Color, leaving it at the default 50 is fine, along with Tint (I have my color at 48, and Tint at -1). Yes, you can go crazy and use test patterns and calibration tools to reach the near perfect standard for color accuracy with the advanced options, but for casual viewing, the defaults in "Movie" mode are close enough within the standard.

Movie mode, unlike the other picture mode, also opens up the "Advanced Settings" and "Picture Options." I'll try to explain the most important below in more detail...

"Advanced Settings"

Dynamic Contrast:
This setting basically auto controls the white and black areas of the screen depending on the content. The Dynamic picture mode seems to have this set to "High" at default, giving it it's super bright, high contrast appearance. I do recommend leaving this "Off," as all it does is modify the source, and "crush" the black and white levels in the picture, which means details in white and black areas are lost (and thus accurate depiction of the source material) in exchange for a more "vibrant" look.

Black Tone:
This controls the overall black level of the set, mostly in brighter scenes, quite similar to the "brightness" setting, but more selective in its execution. This can be left off, but for TV viewing, I find settings this to "Dark" or "Darker" creates deeper blacks without overly obscuring fine shadow detail. I wouldn't recommend the "Darkest" settings however, as it tends to "crush" black detail too much.

"Picture Options"

Digital Clean View & MPEG Noise Filter:
These attempt to diminish the compression artifacts, or blocky appearance (especially during fast or complex movements) of the tv signal, but only succeed in blurring the signal to mask it. For this reason, I recommend leaving these off, especially if you prefer a sharper image. Although these settings can help a little with standard definition content.

Film Mode:
Long story short, use "Auto1" if "Auto Motion Plus" is disabled. Use "Auto2" if Auto Motion Plus is enabled, as it seems to create less stutter.

Auto Motion Plus:
If you want the least amount of stutter with this setting enabled, set it to "Clear." I myself prefer the native cadence of the TV signal, and keep this setting off, but it's all based on preference. I only use this setting on 24p Blu-Ray movies, in "Custom" with the blur reduction set to 10 and judder set to 0.

Cinema Black:
This dims the top and bottom black bars present in letterboxed (2.35:1, etc.) movies. Set it to "Low" or "Medium." For all other content, leave it off.

Lastly, is the TV's "Backlight" setting. I set mine between 7-12, depending on the time of day and the content. This settings is probably the most preference-based, and really depends on how bright your room is. If you're watching movies in a dark room, black level can benifit from turning the backlight down.

I think that about covers the basics.
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post #2723 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 12:16 PM
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Thanks let me mess with it and let you know my thoughts a bit later

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post #2724 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Corrupted Mind View Post

Let me know how your new panel goes... I have the one step down model (F6400) that I bought a couple months ago from Best Buy. I had minor clouding and called into Samsung to send in a request for service. Samsung has been really nice and quick with helping me. The service tech guy called me right away and he already order me a new panel and it took about a week to get to me.

When he came to my place and looked at my TV he said that I had minor clouding. I am pretty OCD about the TV and there was just this one bright cloud spot in the upper left corner that was bothering me.

What I found interesting from the tech guy (who has been working for Samsung for 5 years) is that he said when Samsung makes a model of a tv they of course make thousands of replacements at the same time. So when people call in they can exchange them. The problem is that the panels are never perfect. Your basically gambling your chances to see if you get a "good panel." If you replace it, it could be better or it could be worst.

Now when Samsung runs out of replacements, to when the TV was first manufactored, they start building new ones with sometimes minor fixes they have experienced in the past. It's called a "Prime Panel." To which you have a much higher percentage to get a better more perfect panel.

I went ahead and replaced my panel and unfortunately the clouding was A LOT worse... The tech told me all of this before I replaced it and he recommended not to do it but he said it's my decision. I went ahead and did it anyway just thinking that it might be better. He said after he replaced it he can't put the old one back on because after they open the new box (New Panel) they have this whole restocking fee stuff... Tech said no LED tv is perfect and they are known for clouding a bit. Plasmas are the ones that have the perfect blacks and whites. Though, I like a picture that "pops" like samsungs do.

Well he said that I should replace it again when the "prime panels" come in and to call him in 90 days. He said he doesn't get paid if he comes out before 90 days to replace it again. (Why should I care if he gets paid when I paid $1400 for a new tv, Samsung should cater to me). It's basically another gamble just wondering if the prime panels do come it. Tech said I can replace the tv 3 times before samsung gives me a full refund.

I don't know what to do or if the tech is telling me is 100% true. So i'm deciding if I should wait and see if the clouding goes away in 90 days and call back then. Or just take my chances with another panel. I guess I have a 1 year warrenty with it. Tech was trying to make me feel bad if I call back within a couple weeks because it's saying to Samsung that the TECH didn't do his job. Confusing situation but hope this information helps with those replacing panels. And if anyone has any ideas on what I should do would be great appreciated.

Funny enough, my 46" has zero clouding, which makes me a bit nervous for the panel replacement this coming Monday. However, I'm willing to risk it, as banding is far worse for me; the majority of my TV use is for PC gaming, and there are camera pans galore in said activity.

The "prime" panels sound great in theory, I'm just wondering how accurate his description (and their eventual availability) is. I'd say, if you're not happy with the new panel, ask Samsung to replace it again. Waiting 90 days is up to you, but again, the possibility of a Prime (again, clever use of that word on his part) panel is tempting.

Oh, and coming from this previous owner of a Panasonic 50" ST60, while the blacks are near perfect, the whites are far from it. Try playing the very bright, almost constantly white Mirror's Edge on a plasma. It's almost unbearable. brightness levels drop by 30-40% with full white screens, and then you get a significant buzz from the back of the set whenever something is brighter than a candle onscreen.

And motion resolution leaves much to be desired in 60 FPS games too. Yes, in comparison to an LED, there is no blur or ghosting during fast motion, but in it's place (at least on the ST60), there is "dithering," or sharp red, blue and green pixels trailing at all of the edges on screen. Sure, OLED looks like it will be a nice balance between LED and Plasma, but it will be a long time before it is affordable enough, and it still can't get as bright in the whites (currently) as an LED screen can.

Anyway, to get back on subject, I'll let you know how my replacement goes. As long as there is less banding, and insignificant clouding, I think I'll be set.
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post #2725 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 04:39 PM
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I do too man. It's a really weird issue, and nothing seems to fix it. I notice primarily on xbox with black ops 2. I even tried pc mode. Football and sports look fine with no blue. It's only really dark colors that have a trail with motion. It's not always blue it depends on which dark color the object is ie black, brown etc... I'll let you know how the replacement panel works out. It's a 65" ah01.
Thanks again.


Dark ladder standing still (Xbox 360 Black ops 2)

Ladder while strafing to the left

Banding (Same pic the repair guy saw)

I apologize for the terrible quality of pictures. My old iphone isn't what it use to be.

Well Samsung just called. Evidently their "expert panel board" deemed that my tv didn't qualify for repair this time around. After an hour of yelling on the phone they agreed to have someone else come out and take ****** pictures with a camera phone to resubmit to the panel board... I am so pissed off. Not only did they not fix the issues the first time but they also broke the bezel allowing light to shine through all 4 corners. Evidently this is all normal.... What can I do?
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post #2726 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 05:08 PM
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Well Samsung just called. Evidently their "expert panel board" deemed that my tv didn't qualify for repair this time around. After an hour of yelling on the phone they agreed to have someone else come out and take ****** pictures with a camera phone to resubmit to the panel board... I am so pissed off. Not only did they not fix the issues the first time but they also broke the bezel allowing light to shine through all 4 corners. Evidently this is all normal.... What can I do?

Well, the issue present in the image you took with the ladder in Black Ops II is unfortunately within the norm for this set. It's typically called "Overdrive Trailing" or sometimes black/dark smearing. The type of panel Samsung uses is simply more prone to it, and has to do with how the pixels refresh. My last TV, which had an IPS panel, didn't have this smearing, and instead, it had three versions of the image trailing one behind the other during motion. In other words, You always get motion artifacts on LCD/LEDs, the panel type decides which kind. Decent plasma TVs are no better with gaming, which I detailed in my last post. It's all a tradeoff.

If it makes you feel any better, a 7 year old 32" Sharp of mine had this issue in almost every color AND in the blacks; that ladder would be trailing a dark purple smear across a few inches of the screen in any direction I moved if I played on that set. Compared to that, the F7100's issues are small, and devoid it showing in certain dark colors (mostly noticeable in gaming, in fact, really only that game, which I also own), it has the best overall motion I've seen when compared to my previous two sets.

Now the banding and the damage to the bezel is another thing entirely. Especially the bezel. They should replace the TV on that alone. I wouldn't want to spend over two grand on a set that looks like it was stolen and recovered a few weeks later.

Hope everything works out.
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post #2727 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 05:59 PM
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Well, the issue present in the image you took with the ladder in Black Ops II is unfortunately within the norm for this set. It's typically called "Overdrive Trailing" or sometimes black/dark smearing. The type of panel Samsung uses is simply more prone to it, and has to do with how the pixels refresh. My last TV, which had an IPS panel, didn't have this smearing, and instead, it had three versions of the image trailing one behind the other during motion. In other words, You always get motion artifacts on LCD/LEDs, the panel type decides which kind. Decent plasma TVs are no better with gaming, which I detailed in my last post. It's all a tradeoff.

If it makes you feel any better, a 7 year old 32" Sharp of mine had this issue in almost every color AND in the blacks; that ladder would be trailing a dark purple smear across a few inches of the screen in any direction I moved if I played on that set. Compared to that, the F7100's issues are small, and devoid it showing in certain dark colors (mostly noticeable in gaming, in fact, really only that game, which I also own), it has the best overall motion I've seen when compared to my previous two sets.

Now the banding and the damage to the bezel is another thing entirely. Especially the bezel. They should replace the TV on that alone. I wouldn't want to spend over two grand on a set that looks like it was stolen and recovered a few weeks later.

Hope everything works out.

I do too, I totally agree about the banding and bezel. Those alone warrant replacement or repair in my mind.
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post #2728 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 06:27 PM
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Anybody know how to download apps?
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post #2729 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 06:55 PM
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An attempt at bias lighting. Not keeping this tv but figured it was a good candidate for the experiment.





Will definitely implement this on my next tv.
As can be seen, while not totally defeated, it certainly improved the blacks and hid quite a large extent of the flashlighting and clouding. These pictures are quite close to what is seen in real life. Backlight at 5.
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post #2730 of 5328 Old 10-11-2013, 07:56 PM
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An attempt at bias lighting. Not keeping this tv but figured it was a good candidate for the experiment.





Will definitely implement this on my next tv.
As can be seen, while not totally defeated, it certainly improved the blacks and hid quite a large extent of the flashlighting and clouding. These pictures are quite close to what is seen in real life. Backlight at 5.

Great idea. I was thinking of doing something like this myself for night time movie viewing. Did you buy a lighting system made for that purpose, or did you use some other method?
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