Toshiba L1350U Series (2013) - Page 10 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #271 of 314 Old 05-16-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post

I don't understand how something chosen in the picture settings (Theater Mode, Standard Mode) can change input lag.
It's because the picture mode option changes more than just the video settings that you can see. One of the easiest examples is that the contrast on "Movie" is considerably lower than any other picture setting.
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What does Input labeling an HDMI port as Game Mode do exactly?
It makes the label on the imput menu say "Game". tongue.gif Nothing more, nothing less. A label should be nothing but a label should it not?
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post #272 of 314 Old 05-16-2014, 07:09 PM
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Ahh Ok. Thanks The reason I asked about input labeling was because of these:

http://www.escapistmagazine.com/forums/read/538.828535-Connected-PC-to-TV-via-HDMI-screen-really-blurry#20164765

Post #3.

I also would like to try DVI-HDMI from my PC to TV, instead of HDMI-HDMI.
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post #273 of 314 Old 05-16-2014, 07:13 PM
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Different TVs work in different ways, especially if it's a different brand altogether.
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post #274 of 314 Old 05-16-2014, 07:14 PM
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It's handy to label your inputs, and I'm not complaining, I'm just still digging to see if it's possible, if not, oh well.
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post #275 of 314 Old 05-21-2014, 06:37 AM
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Just got my replacement tv and the sound works perfect, which is great also I notice picture on same settings posted here the tv seems little more vibrant.

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post #276 of 314 Old 05-24-2014, 01:19 PM
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I am having hard time programming my Harmony 659 remote with 39L1350UC. I believe this TV is not set up properly on Logitech website. I contacted Logitech but got no answer so far.
Anybody else has issues with Harmony remotes?
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post #277 of 314 Old 05-24-2014, 01:24 PM
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Considering that a Harmony remote costs anywhere from 25% to 50% of the price of these TVs depending on what model TV and remote you have, I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that most owners of an L1350U TV aren't going to own a Harmony remote.
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post #278 of 314 Old 05-27-2014, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post

Considering that a Harmony remote costs anywhere from 25% to 50% of the price of these TVs depending on what model TV and remote you have, I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that most owners of an L1350U TV aren't going to own a Harmony remote.
Yeah, that seems to be the case although for me it was more like 8% considering I paid around $35 for that remote.
Anyway I solved the issue. It turned up that canadian model (1350UC) I own is set up differently in the Logitech database. I used 1350U settings initially but once I changed to the correct model number I got all the inputs working fine
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post #279 of 314 Old 06-02-2014, 08:35 AM
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Well it has been a few months now and the tosh is still going strong with NO issues!

I am so glad i got this TV!

gaming is amazing and all my HD movies look insanely good

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post #280 of 314 Old 06-06-2014, 10:26 AM
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I noticed that even at the lowest volume setting (level 1) my 39L1350UC is pretty loud. Any remedy for this? Anybody else experienced that?
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post #281 of 314 Old 06-06-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovexi View Post

I noticed that even at the lowest volume setting (level 1) my 39L1350UC is pretty loud. Any remedy for this? Anybody else experienced that?

I have noticed that as well, but have not found a remedy.

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post #282 of 314 Old 06-13-2014, 05:12 PM
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Uhh, I'm having a weird issue that just starting happening like a week or two ago. Around 10-11pm on some OTA channels the audio will just cut out and the Dolby Digital icon will blink. Changing the channel will fix it temporarily but it seems to stop happening come 11:30pm. Note that if I turn on an external receiver it too will not have any sound. I'm also running what should be the newest TV firmware, v1.1.13 Sept 3 2013.

Here's a video of the issue, note that you can see that the signal strength shows full bars at the 0:09 mark.


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post #283 of 314 Old 06-14-2014, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post
Uhh, I'm having a weird issue that just starting happening like a week or two ago. Around 10-11pm on some OTA channels the audio will just cut out and the Dolby Digital icon will blink. Changing the channel will fix it temporarily but it seems to stop happening come 11:30pm. Note that if I turn on an external receiver it too will not have any sound. I'm also running what should be the newest TV firmware, v1.1.13 Sept 3 2013.

Here's a video of the issue, note that you can see that the signal strength shows full bars at the 0:09 mark.
Some OTA broadcasters in your market will use the same tower. You may want to visit your markets Forum here on AVS and post the situation, You could also call or find your 43.1 channel on the web and report the problem.
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post #284 of 314 Old 06-14-2014, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post
Some OTA broadcasters in your market will use the same tower. You may want to visit your markets Forum here on AVS and post the situation, You could also call or find your 43.1 channel on the web and report the problem.
Interestingly enough it has actually been happening most frequently with 3.1 and 19.1, the night I took that video was the first time it happened with 43.1.
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post #285 of 314 Old 07-26-2014, 10:31 PM
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Nintendo which picture settings do you use for your pc? I know ypu don't gane from it but im looking for some. Amyone else here game from their pc on this tv?
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post #286 of 314 Old 07-27-2014, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post
Nintendo which picture settings do you use for your pc? I know ypu don't gane from it but im looking for some. Amyone else here game from their pc on this tv?
Actually I do game on that PC, but due to it's older Intel GPU the highest end game I've tried on it is Halo 1. Also I just don't do that much PC gaming, but it is something that does happen, and now that I replaced my HTPC's CPU with one that supports visualization acceleration, I'll likely rig up a bunch of older games.

Anyway, as for settings, I just use pretty much the same settings as my blu-ray player because both are are extremely high-quality videos sources (PC is lossless outside of video and JPEGs, Blu-ray is very high bitrate)

EDIT: Ohhh, I see the issue, changing the forum software broke my direct links and my use of the previously-existing spoiler tag. I've fixed that:
Toshiba L1350U Series (2013)

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post #287 of 314 Old 07-27-2014, 10:27 PM
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Your gonna hate me. I think ive even asked before but you use cnets setting right? Just with a few modified settings for each of your own (high quality video source) change mode, backlight, contrast. You also use a sharpness of 10 correct?
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post #288 of 314 Old 07-27-2014, 10:39 PM
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Err, not quite. Read the post I linked to in my previous post:

Toshiba L1350U Series (2013)
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post #289 of 314 Old 09-20-2014, 08:25 PM
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Hi again. Ok back to my question about HDMI ports. I noticed my 360 dashboard(menu) doesn't look as clear as my PS3 XMB (menu). My question is, are all the HDMI ports the same "quality?" Another random question from my ocd haha
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post #290 of 314 Old 09-20-2014, 11:11 PM
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Yes the HDMI ports are the same quality. The PS3's XMB is natively 1080p while the 360's dashboard is 720p upscaled via the console to 1080p.

Last edited by NintendoManiac64; 09-21-2014 at 02:41 PM.
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post #291 of 314 Old 09-21-2014, 02:01 AM
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Thanks.
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post #292 of 314 Old 10-13-2014, 08:12 AM
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Anyone have issues with this TV and the PS4 when watching Hulu+ and Amazon Instant. I went though every option but it seems that when there is camera movement I get bad motion judder. It is so annoying I end up stopping what I am watching. The thing is that Netflix plays perfectly. Also if I use my Fire TV I also have no motion judder issues with Hulu+ or Amazon Instant.

I searched all over the web but I ended up getting more frustrating but the only thing I was able to find was a great article explaining my problem and they even mentioned this TV series well the L2300 which I have.
http://www.cnet.com/news/what-is-1080p24/

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post #293 of 314 Old 10-13-2014, 10:28 PM
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First off, I reccomend enabling the HDMI info display from the TV's menus to see what framerate you're actually getting over the HDMI connection.

Secondly, that article is actually quite wrong (maybe it's outdated?) - TVs can indeed display 24fps without judder, frame interpolation, or flicker, and it normally shouldn't be a choppy mess unless the source material has no or little motion blur or you just watched a ton of 60fps content beforehand.

Thirdly, and likely the reason why the C-net article mentions the 2300U, is that this TV can only handle 24.000fps input (used for Blu-ray) rather than 23.976fps (used for legacy OTA-compliant signals). I personally notice no issue with native 24fps Blu-rays other than issues relating to actual low framerate, and I'm the kind of guy that plays 60fps arcade games and uses frame interpolation via SVP for PC-based video with a Trinitron CRT.


EDIT: Ahh, I see the issue - the author believes that LCDs by definition only have a single native refresh rate similar to them having a native resolution, and believes that all these TVs with native 24fps input are only accepting 24fps input but then converting it (similar to the way that a 1080p TV can accept a 720p input and then upscale it).

The issue however is that we can see that this is not actually true of LCD tech due to a few things:

1. 144hz PC monitors - they commonly support lower refresh rates as well such as 60hz and 120hz since ghosting and motion blur in the actual panel can be improved. If the display was upconverting to 144hz anyway then the panel's ghosting wouldn't look any different between 60hz, 120hz, and 144hz, which is clearly not the case in this review:
https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/asus-vg248qe/

2. G-Sync - the fact that it even exists shows that even flat-out dynamic refesh rates aren't impossible on an LCD. Of course, the article pre-dates this development.

3. Adaptive Vsync - the basic "custom refresh rate" function was demonstrated with a ~50fps video on a stock Toshiba laptop that had nothing changed to it other than the video drivers.


Besides, this completely ignores the idea of a native 120hz panel that doesn't do interpolation or black-frame insertion. Considering that, without black frame insertion, an LCD is a sample-and-hold technology anyway, it matters not if the TV is natively displaying 24fps or displaying each source frame for 5 on-screen frames - the result would look identical.

Last edited by NintendoManiac64; 11-11-2014 at 08:45 PM. Reason: spelling fix
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post #294 of 314 Old 12-01-2014, 06:10 PM
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Setting up as a PC monitor

So I've tried out the settings suggested in the thread and gotten the picture to look pretty good (Christ Dynamic mode is terrible).

However, I bought this on sale to use as a second monitor for my PC to watch Movies/Anime and play games on, everything looks good so far except the picture is slightly cut off.
There's some noticeable black borders around the edges (about a quarter inch on the horizontal sides and a half inch on the vertical ones) of the screen not being used and all the sides are being cut off slightly.

I've gone through both the tv and my graphics display settings and haven't found anything in those or some face google searches.

Anybody had a similar issue? It doesn't seem like the screen is actually dead in those areas, just not being used.

This is the first time I've ever tried using a tv as a twinview monitor so I'm fumbling around a bit.
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post #295 of 314 Old 12-02-2014, 09:39 PM
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So I've tried out the settings suggested in the thread and gotten the picture to look pretty good (Christ Dynamic mode is terrible).

However, I bought this on sale to use as a second monitor for my PC to watch Movies/Anime and play games on, everything looks good so far except the picture is slightly cut off.
There's some noticeable black borders around the edges (about a quarter inch on the horizontal sides and a half inch on the vertical ones) of the screen not being used and all the sides are being cut off slightly.

I've gone through both the tv and my graphics display settings and haven't found anything in those or some face google searches.

Anybody had a similar issue? It doesn't seem like the screen is actually dead in those areas, just not being used.

This is the first time I've ever tried using a tv as a twinview monitor so I'm fumbling around a bit.
Edit
Yeah, I'm an idiot and didn't realize picture sizing was accessed from somewhere other than the menu button.
If anyone else is missing this just hit pic size>native and boom.
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post #296 of 314 Old 12-02-2014, 10:17 PM
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So, even with Stable sound off, I am still getting low voices and high sound effects in movies, is there any way to balance this out?
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post #297 of 314 Old 12-03-2014, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
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So, even with Stable sound off, I am still getting low voices and high sound effects in movies, is there any way to balance this out?
Uhh, if anything, you should want Stable sound on if that's what you're trying to achieve.

The ABX audio setting should probably be turned off for your needs however since turning it off seems to help make voices clearer (but causes most other things to sound worse).


Random update: A few months ago I confirmed that sharpness @ -25 is definitely the position for having direct 1:1 without any sharpness post-processing.

Last edited by NintendoManiac64; 12-04-2014 at 12:01 AM.
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post #298 of 314 Old 12-04-2014, 10:37 AM
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Thank you for replying Nintendo and as always your help is greatly appreciated. Ill make sure stable sound is on. Ill also look at what the audyssey abx is on. For the -25 sharpness and post processing, maybe that will fix my pc gaming issue on the TV.
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post #299 of 314 Old 12-04-2014, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
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maybe that will fix my pc gaming issue on the TV.
Could you give me the run-down on what that issue was again?
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post #300 of 314 Old 12-05-2014, 08:51 AM
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Hi. I didn't test the pc gaming issue last night. But basically it's when I'm playing something from the PC, at 60 fps, when moving the camera around, it blurs but also seems to have some white glow around stuff. It doesn't make the game.unplayable of course, but when compared to my 60hz monitor, it isn't as bad. Almost doesn't exist on my monitor. I read that maybe the TV can't keep up with that fast of frames, like the panel isn't strong enough and I'd need a true 120hZ refresh rate....but my monitor isn't 120hz. I might try DVI to hdmi. (Using HDMI to HDMI mini right now) But I've also heard that wouldn't make a difference. I also heard renaming inputs helps but that didn't do anything. On a side note I tried the stable sound on, which seems to be better. Thanks.
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