Toshiba L1350U Series (2013) - Page 12 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJSLP View Post
So it "MAY" be the power board? The BL driver is integrated in the power board on these
Maybe, maybe not. No idea since I'm not exactly willing to open up my TV when I'm not even its primary user and it's been working perfectly ever since the board replacement years ago.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post
Maybe, maybe not. No idea since I'm not exactly willing to open up my TV when I'm not even its primary user and it's been working perfectly ever since the board replacement years ago.
I see, well it would be a $60-75 gamble IF i wanted to give it a go?
Was going to get a 4K sony x810c to replace it,
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x810c
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:23 PM
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Personally I'd crack open the TV first and take a look at how the LED backlight array connects to the power supply and the like.


And regarding TVs, for $1000 I myself would go with OLED or bust, even if it's only the "lowly" 55EG9100 model.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post
Personally I'd crack open the TV first and take a look at how the LED backlight array connects to the power supply and the like.


.
I already did but that does not really tell the story? it is a real basic plastic module clip
that you unplug.
it may or may not be the board though, it could be just one or even two of the LED's which will cause ALL of them to fail!
and tracing a bad LED is not a easy task.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:32 PM
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And regarding TVs, for $1000 I myself would go with OLED or bust, even if it's only the "lowly" 55EG9100 model.
Budget is $1000 and there is no OLED tv's for that amount,
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by EJSLP View Post
Budget is $1000 and there is no OLED tv's for that amount,
This forum section would disagree:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/322-ol...t-found-deals/

People have gotten the 9100 for $1000 in recent months.

Oh, and contact Cleveland AV first - their pricing is a great baseline since you can usually only get cheaper pricing from Ebay sellers, though sometimes from Microcenter and/or Monoprice.

Last edited by NintendoManiac64; 06-06-2016 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 06-26-2016, 01:10 PM
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I just did a bunch of pseudo-calibration tests with my own self-made test patterns (I wanted to make sure I knew exactly what was being used) testing for black & white level, black & white crush, and color clipping for a given backlight level. I would call this a high contrast preset (but not quite vivid - the colors aren't super-saturated or anything).

Note that I'm pretty sure that these settings don't give an accurate image - I believe the color temperature is too cool, the green might be too saturated, and the gamma is probably jacked up.


I first "calibrated" to maximize the black and white levels to maximize static contrast but without crushing or clipping the near-black or near-whites. After that, I configured things so that red, green, and blue were as saturated as possible without reducing the maximum white or crushing the near-whites nor clipping any colors. Contrary to what you'd think, this was all actually much more difficult on this TV than one would believe.

BTW, settings marked as [user choice] seem to have no effect on the result with regards to my above stated goals of maximizing contrast or the like.


High Contrast preset (not vivid)

Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: [user choice]
Contrast: 88
Brightness: -3
Color: -1
Tint: [user choice]
Sharpness: [user choice; -25 for direct 1:1 pixel mapping without any "enhancement"]

Color Master: Off
Color Temperature: Cool
- Red: +1
- Green: +9
- Blue: +1
Static Gamma: +4
Auto Brightness Sensor: [user choice]
DynaLight: [user choice]
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Cinema Mode: [user choice]
Noise Reduction: [user choice]
Edge Enhancer: [user choice; "Off" for direct 1:1 pixel mapping without any "enhancement"]



Oh, and remember back when we were somewhat debating about the 120Hz on this TV? I can definitely confirm that the 120Hz is purely backlight strobing - this is most noticeable when you feed the TV a 50Hz (rather than 60Hz) signal - I'm am able to see that the display is flickering in quite a CRT-like manner (though this TV's backlight strobing at 100Hz is quite a bit more flickery than any CRT at 100Hz I know of, and I'm pretty sure it's not strobing at 50Hz either).

Last edited by NintendoManiac64; 06-28-2016 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Today, 06:13 PM
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Uhhh, I just discovered a really annoying issue - it seems that setting the 3.5mm audio input to HDMI1 simply does not work, but it works perfectly fine when it's set to "PC".

Anyone have such an issue?



Admittedly I'm running an old TV firmware because I didn't want to upgrade and possibly cause the same issues I had previously where the OTA audio would cut out since it's out of warranty, but maybe I should just bite the bullet and update the firmware...
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Toshiba 39l1350u 39 Inch Led Hdtv , Toshiba 50l1350u 50 Inch Led Hdtv , Toshiba 29l1350u 29 Inch Led Hdtv , Toshiba 32l1350u 32 Inch Class Led Hdtv
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