Toshiba L1350U Series (2013) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 291 Old 06-18-2013, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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There doesn't seem to be much discussion about this series yet.

I'm looking for a gaming monitor in the 39"-42" range, and the 39L135OU is getting great reviews at Amazon... - http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-39L1350U-39-Inch-1080p-120Hz/dp/B00BN3W19Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371594720&sr=8-1&keywords=toshiba+39%22+hdtv

As a gamer, though, input lag is important. Does anyone know if the display lag on this model, or on this series in general, is low? Any other recommendations for an <$600 gaming monitor around 40"?

Sadly enough, I'm still using an old 27" CRT. I sit about 7-7.5 feet from the TV, so I'm not sure whether I should stay in the 39-40" range, or go for a 42"...
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post #2 of 291 Old 06-18-2013, 06:30 PM
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I'm looking at this one too, for a bedroom TV. I have some very specific needs, and it seems to meet all of them EXCEPT for the shared AV/component input. No problem, I'll just buy a new DVD with HDMI. Should have done that a long time ago anyhow.
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post #3 of 291 Old 06-18-2013, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris127 View Post

There doesn't seem to be much discussion about this series yet.

I'm looking for a gaming monitor in the 39"-42" range, and the 39L135OU is getting great reviews at Amazon... - http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-39L1350U-39-Inch-1080p-120Hz/dp/B00BN3W19Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371594720&sr=8-1&keywords=toshiba+39%22+hdtv

As a gamer, though, input lag is important. Does anyone know if the display lag on this model, or on this series in general, is low? Any other recommendations for an <$600 gaming monitor around 40"?

Sadly enough, I'm still using an old 27" CRT. I sit about 7-7.5 feet from the TV, so I'm not sure whether I should stay in the 39-40" range, or go for a 42"...

I can't answer you question per se as I don't know anyone with that model but, if you want, I can give you some information on the L5200u model.

As for what size to get, if you can afford it, you should get a larger TV if you are sitting that far away.
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post #4 of 291 Old 06-19-2013, 05:44 AM
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I may be out on this one. Although it has jacks for analog audio out (I need either those, a 3.5mm jack, or a 3.5mm headphone jack), it's not clear from the manual wether variable audio out is available. All I can see in the Audio menu is TV speakers on/off.
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post #5 of 291 Old 06-22-2013, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris127 View Post

There doesn't seem to be much discussion about this series yet.

I'm looking for a gaming monitor in the 39"-42" range, and the 39L135OU is getting great reviews at Amazon...

As a gamer, though, input lag is important. Does anyone know if the display lag on this model, or on this series in general, is low? Any other recommendations for an <$600 gaming monitor around 40"?

I just posted the following in the Input Lag Wars thread:
Quote:
For what it's worth, a Toshiba product specialist told me that the only difference between the L1350U series and the L2300U series is the product color (1350 is black; 2300 is grey) and that all dimensions, specs, etc. are the same.

The 39L2300u gets a "Great" rating on displaylag.com with an input lag measured at 25ms.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1131464/input-lag-wars-post-your-input-lag-results-of-your-lcd-display-here-for-reference/4020#post_23456852
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post #6 of 291 Old 06-24-2013, 01:56 PM
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I'm definitely out now. Going with a 2012 model LG instead (the 42CS570), but I did want to mention that this is on sale at Best Buy this week - down another $50 to $349.99

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/40%22+Class+%2839-5/8%22+Diag.%29+-+LED+-+1080p+-+120Hz+-+HDTV/8130199.p?id=1218864356451&skuId=8130199&st=L1350U&cp=1&lp=2
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post #7 of 291 Old 07-15-2013, 09:03 AM
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I just picked up the 39L1350U from Best Buy yesterday. Hooked it up, tweaked it a bit (lowered the default "95" contract setting for one!), and played a few hours of BF3 on the 360. I really like the set, great value. I've always liked Toshiba displays.

I used the Game Mode; is that preferred? Not exactly sure what that does.

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post #8 of 291 Old 07-26-2013, 01:53 PM
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Does anyone else have any information on input lag for this model? Like the topic creator, I'm looking for a set for gaming (specifically PS3 and PS4 when it's out) and this one looks just about perfect, but I can't seem to find any solid information on input lag. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oktoberrust11 View Post

I used the Game Mode; is that preferred? Not exactly sure what that does.

From what I've read, Game Mode doesn't do much on any set. It sounds good, but doesn't really reduce the input lag. This is just what I've read of course, but it seems to be the overwhelming opinion on that feature.
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post #9 of 291 Old 07-29-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AriaOfSorrow View Post

Does anyone else have any information on input lag for this model? Like the topic creator, I'm looking for a set for gaming (specifically PS3 and PS4 when it's out) and this one looks just about perfect, but I can't seem to find any solid information on input lag. Any advice would be much appreciated.
From what I've read, Game Mode doesn't do much on any set. It sounds good, but doesn't really reduce the input lag. This is just what I've read of course, but it seems to be the overwhelming opinion on that feature.

Per Cosme's post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosme View Post

I just posted the following in the Input Lag Wars thread:
The 39L2300u gets a "Great" rating on displaylag.com with an input lag measured at 25ms.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1131464/input-lag-wars-post-your-input-lag-results-of-your-lcd-display-here-for-reference/4020#post_23456852

This display is measured @ 30ms input lag (go here and search for "39L2300U").

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post #10 of 291 Old 07-31-2013, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oktoberrust11 View Post

Per Cosme's post:
This display is measured @ 30ms input lag (go here and search for "39L2300U").

Yes, but is the "Toshiba specialist" correct that it is the same as the L1350U line? I'd rather have more confirmation than that before I buy it.
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post #11 of 291 Old 08-01-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AriaOfSorrow View Post

Yes, but is the "Toshiba specialist" correct that it is the same as the L1350U line? I'd rather have more confirmation than that before I buy it.

http://support.toshiba.com/contact

(800) 631-3811

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post #12 of 291 Old 09-03-2013, 09:51 AM
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Just bought the 39 inch version from BestBuy as a bedroom TV. I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised of the picture quality for this cheap model. It has plenty of ports and advanced color features that most models at this price don't have.
The remote is a little lacking and the stand is wobbly but besides that, great TV for the money.

Now i just need to get the color tweaked down a bit. Does anyone have calibration settings worth trying?
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post #13 of 291 Old 09-19-2013, 06:08 AM
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I just picked up one of these as well. I can confirm that the L2300U line is the same as the L1350U line.

In case anyone is interested, here are some discrete codes for universal remote users:
Code:
Protocol=nec1 Device=64 TV setup code 0156 (10156), 1156, 1256, 1356, 1656, 
0765, 0767, 0845, 1711
Device Code: 64 Function: 32 EFC: 213 ColorStream HD (Component)
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 33 EFC: 217 HDMI 1
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 34 EFC: 215 HDMI 2
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 35 EFC: 219 HDMI 3
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 36 EFC: 212 PC
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 61 EFC: 024 Ant/Cable
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 126 EFC: 006 Power On
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 127 EFC: 010 Power Off
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 193 EFC: 177 Theater Wide 1
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 194 EFC: 175 Theater Wide 2
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 195 EFC: 179 Theater Wide 3
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 203 EFC: 051 Full
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 
0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 
0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 204 EFC: 044 4:3 HD
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 205 EFC: 048 Dynamic
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 206 EFC: 046 Standard
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 207 EFC: 050 Movie
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 
0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 
0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94
Device Code: 64 Function: 209 EFC: 113 Native
0000 006D 0022 0002 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 
0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 
0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0689 0157 0056 0015 
0E94

See this thread for details on how to use these codes:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298404/official-toshiba-xxe200u-owners-thread-32e200u-37e200u-40e200u

Here is a JP1 upgrade for it:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=12061


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post #14 of 291 Old 09-21-2013, 02:52 PM
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I noticed that the 58 inch Toshiba 58L1350U found at Sears is SUPER CHEAP!!!

I know I cannot mention price, but for a 58" screen, the price is unheard of. It does not have any sort of smart features, but it does have 3 HDMI inputs(4 would have been nice), component in, ANALOG and OPTICAL OUT for sound(GREAT for someone who uses headphones quite a bit, like myself). I DO NOT KNOW if the STAND SWIVELS, but if anyone does, let me know. That would be nice as well.

If the INPUT LAG is the same on this model, as the lower models, this would seem ideal for gaming. But I cannot get a "LOOKSEEE" at any Sears near me. No one has it up on display. I always like to fiddle with these things first, and get a good look at them. Also, play with bot the PICTURE and AUDIO controls, but especially the PICTURE.

Like many hear, I get my SMART TV form other devices(ROKU 3/APPLETV/Blu-Ray/ ROKU 2 XS/PS4 in the future) so having all that added on stuff means nothing too me.

Anyone else know anything about this tv, or maybe it's little smaller 50" brother? Seems like a great deal.
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post #15 of 291 Old 09-22-2013, 04:57 AM
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I have the 39" L2300 model and it is a great TV however the first one I got from Amazon had three dead pixels. I don't know about the third because it looked more black but I could not remove it as the other two were very faint and you can only see them if you stand right infront of the set.

I called Amazon and they sent another set and it had only one dead pixel in the upper right corner which you can only see if you are right in front of the set. If I only step back one step it disappears and I have a small room. I called Amazon again and they gave me 10% credit. Excellent service from Amazon.

Otherwise the picture is great the viewing angles do get a bit darker when I watch at a corner so I am pretty sure it is a PVA panel. The menues are ugly though and everytime it changes resolutions it will display it. The best part is that is has analog audio out which I need for my Zvox sound bar.

As I said it is a great set so don't listen to these bias reviews you find online. If you are going to buy it get it from Amazon even if there is tax as there policy's are great if you have problems. Thanks.

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post #16 of 291 Old 09-26-2013, 09:09 AM
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.. like SteelersRule above, I am also interested in the 58" L1350U; though, have not seen if Sears has one set-up.

Am also looking at two other (no-frills : dumb) LED versions: the Samsung UN60FH6003 and LG 60LN5400.

Being that all these sets are 'bare-based' units, I'm guessing they 'would not' have the best in forms of their manufacturer's panels .. but one is hoping they would use a 'higher quality' one over last year's model.

Some viewing at Wiki, found Toshiba and LG use the IPS panels, but not sure if they use the P-IPS , AH-IPS , S-IPS or some variation .. and which provides the best picture.

The Samsung's are said in other reading to use the S-PVA and there's mention of Super PLS as challenge to the IPS, as mentioned at Wiki.

In final, just looking for a nice looking set .. one that provides above-average black levels and good off-axis viewing. Most everyone here has been to the BB stores and seen that their environment is not ideal 'nor' does the model tested have proper settings. Yes, I could purchase and lug it home, test it, pack it back-up, return it, purchase another .. etc, etc. .......

But, if one of the panels (noted above) is favored over another, its a good bet that that LED set is what I'm looking for.

If anyone has any advise and/or further tech info on this subject .. would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks much .. redface.gif

Wiki sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thin-film-transistor_liquid-crystal_display
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPS_panel
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post #17 of 291 Old 09-26-2013, 10:44 AM
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I tried to find out the panel type this TV used on crappy Google but found crap. I am pretty sure it has some kind of PVA panel because I have a Dell 24" monitor which has a PVA panel and it exhibits the same color uniformity and viewing angles.

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post #18 of 291 Old 10-06-2013, 11:58 PM
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Here's the user's manual for the TV, it should answer a lot of questions:
http://support.toshiba.com/support/s...tentId=3596913

And a link to the newest TV firmware (in the left column on the webpage):
http://support.toshiba.com/support/m...eeText=3528912

Also note, all of my comments regarding composite apply to "Game" mode, I did minimal testing with "Standard" mode.

~~~~~


I own this TV purely due to its low input lag, and it was even bought a week before Display Lag specifically recommended it. :P

I was planning on making a full review, but here's most of the notable things anyway...

First a Heads-up or two
  • The 3.5" audio input defaults to HDMI, not VGA! So don't panic if you have no sound for your VGA connection - you just need to change it in the menu's input settings.
  • For VGA, HDMI, and component, a sharpness level of somewhere from -10 to -25 eliminates all sharpening artifacts.
  • The static gamma defaults to +1. I personally like a darker-ish image, so I set it to -1 on all inputs except composite which I set to +2 static gamma (I explain why father down)
  • The LCD panel uses a blue-green-red sub-pixel layout; this is important to note when calibrating things like Windows ClearType.


Here's the Bad News
  • The channel-changing of the internal tuner is a bit slow... UPDATE: Other people identify its speed as "very slow". Perhaps in the future I'll time it for an absolute measurement. However, it's also been reported that an antenna pre-amp helps quite a bit, and I've only ever used a pre-amp.
  • Using the 3.5" audio input jack does not work on HDMI if the HDMI is also transmitting sound. Also note that I personally have discovered that the Intel 965 chipset ALWAYS transmits sound over HDMI, even in the bios or when the HDMI audio device driver is disabled in Windows.
  • This TV has no headphone jack, and the RCA audio outputs are pre-amp, meaning that the TV's volume control will not work with it. If you want to use headphones directly with the TV you'll need a pair of headphones with their own volume control and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this one from Monoprice for only $4.26 including shipping: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=5612
  • Using the component input is a total pain if you're using composite at all, and vice-versa. Not only does the green component input and the composite video input use the same physical jack, but you have to go into the menu's input settings (not the normal input selection menu, but the actual "Menu" with picture and audio settings and stuff) every single time in order to switch the signal type between component and composite.
  • The video settings seem to be totally uncalibrated; the contrast is too high and causes bloom lighting-esque effects and the red tint is just...wrong. I have no way to actually calibrate, but I was able to at least make it not look obviously wrong via eyeballing it. For all inputs (including antenna) I set the contrast to 75. On VGA and HDMI I set color temperature to cool, set Red to +5, Green to -3, and Blue to -6. For antenna, composite, and component I set color temperature to cool (all the individual color temp. settings were left at 0) and via ColorMaster I set Red Hue to +10 and the Red Saturation to +5.
    Read my updated picture settings here: Toshiba L1350U Series (2013)
  • Dynamic contrast is enabled by default. Disable it, 'nuff said.
  • Stable sound is also enabled by default. This is no good for video games, and with the introduction of ITU-R BS.1770, this shouldn't even be needed for live TV.
  • There seems to always be a bit of sharpening artifacts applied to the composite connection even if you turn the sharpness setting down to the lowest possible. Therefore the only thing you can really do is to just eyeball it and set the sharpness to whatever looks best to you.


Now the Good News
  • Pressing only a single number on the remote, say, 3, does not take you to channel 3-0 but actually takes you to channel 3-1! If you aren't one to channel surf, this is extremely useful and arguably even minimizes the issue of the slow-ish tuner.
  • The internal speakers seem to actually be pretty good considering what they are. UPDATE: My nearly 60-year-old parents seem to have issues hearing dialog however and ended up maxing out the TV's treble, though I could hear it fine. However, I did do a large amount of my speaker-quality testing with music rather than dialog. It's very possible that the "Audyssey ABX" setting causes a V-shaped frequency response which can sound great for music but can drown out the mid-range and therefore the dialog. If you have problems hearing any dialog try disabling "Audyssey EAX", but note that it will cause music to sound considerably more flat and "tinny".
  • When no sound is playing through the speakers, TV is completely silent, and also makes no noise at all when turning on or off. UPDATE: After 3 months of ownership, in November/December the TV was making a low-volume, high-pitched buzz through the speakers that was always at a constant volume unless you muted the TV or set the volume to 0, which would make the buzz quieter but it would still be there. A month later sometime in January I noticed that said high-pitched buzz was no longer present. My father thinks it was just something with the changing weather from summer/autumn to winter (we live in Northeast Ohio).
  • When turning on the TV, If you time it right and are quick, the slow-ish internal tuner allows you to hit mute twice (first time is half-mute) before any sound actually starts playing.
  • There's a detailed information display for HDMI inputs that you can enable via "Menu" -> "Options" -> "HDMI Information Display" which tells you things like framerate, color depth, and chroma. According to such info, this TV supports both 24fps and 36bit color, or at least as an input. More info can be found here: www.avsforum.com/t/1477874/toshiba-l1350u-series-2013/180#post_24504822
  • Multiple customizable picture settings profiles, and each input has separate profiles from the others (even component and composite are separate)
  • Individual aspect ratio settings per input, and at least for antenna input, individual aspect ratio settings per resolution.
  • Native (aka no overscan mode) available for both HDMI and antenna.
  • The 3.5" audio input jack can be used for HDMI if you're just sending a DVI video signal.
  • With "Game" and "PC" picture modes, the 120hz causes no noticeable soap-opera effect to the point that I thought it wasn't even on. The 120hz is actually always on according to the PDF manual, and you can test this yourself by running a video through SVP (www.svp-team.com) - the 120hz conflicts with SVP and results in flickering and judder that does not happen on a CRT computer monitor nor an LCD laptop display.
  • Dot by dot pixel-mapping available for VGA and HDMI.
  • Supports full 4:4:4 color space with audio, even over HDMI
  • Supports both 0-255 and limited 16-235 color ranges, and defaults to "Auto" color-range detection
  • Speaking of VGA, the EDID limits it to a max of 1280x1024 and 1360x768. However, on Nvidia and ATI/AMD GPUs, you can override the EDID and force up to 1920x1080 @ 64hz over VGA perfectly fine. The only issue is that overriding the EDID causes the phase settings to not be saved, and the default phase setting is totally wrong for 1920x1080 @ 60 or 64hz.
  • This has to have the cleanest composite video signal I've ever seen, but then again I haven't seen many new HDTVs. I'm used to composite looking like a blurry mess on HDTVs, and this is definitely NOT. Without a deflicker fliter, composite seriously can compete with 480p over VGA - blasphemy, I know.
  • Speaking of composite, I have never heard of this - on this TV it actually simulates the 90s CRT gamma ramp if you use the composite connection. My father and I noticed this right away because we previously used a Trinitron CRT for games, which was one of the few CRTs actually capable of the modern-day gamma ramp. The gamma ramp option in higan/bsnes produces extremely similar results to the Toshiba HDTV over composite. This is why I set the static gamma to +2 on the composite - it still retains the 90s CRT-esque gamma ramp but brightens the image enough so that my father isn't always complaining that it looks too dark.
  • On a similar note, if you like your 2D games to have blocky, unfiltered pixels, the TV does that in spades. Heck, a 240p composite connection is actually crisper than even a 480p VGA connection, even if the 480p VGA is showing the exact same content as the 240p composite but with the VGA doing 200% nearest neighbor scaling
  • It sounds crazy, but I think the black levels of this Toshiba HDTV are actually better than the Trinitron CRT it replaced. Of course, the CRT was also 12-13 years old and was used quite a bit...

EDIT: Composite set to "Game" picture mode seems to have nearly the same input lag as VGA set to the "PC" picture mode.


UPDATE: You can find quite a bit more info that I forgot about in the following posts down below on this current page and on page 2 of this here thread.

Last edited by NintendoManiac64; 07-27-2014 at 01:21 PM.
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post #19 of 291 Old 10-07-2013, 10:39 AM
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Very nice summary NintendoManiac...

I have a 42" LG from a few years ago with very low lag and great calibration controls. I'm a bit disatisfied with the off axis viewing angles sometimes... It was a great deal at the time though.

I have not seen this Toshiba in stores yet, but I'm wondering if the screen is matte or glossy and how the off-axis performance is? Any thoughts on that?

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post #20 of 291 Old 10-07-2013, 10:57 AM
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It's half-way between matte and glossy. I personally really like how it does it because matte can sometimes give a bit of a "shimmery" look while glossy is, well... you know, glossy. This seems to have the benefits of both matte and glossy without the downsides of either.

Regarding off-axis, coming from a Trinitron CRT (and still using a Trinitron CRT monitor right now) it's not GREAT, but again, I can only compare to older HDTVs, and on this one the only noticeable shift I really find are the black levels and the purple and/or megenta tones. The blacks just get a little more "grey" if you will, they definitely don't do that crazy "invert" like what would happen on older LCD panels. The purple and/or megenta will turn into a more reddish tint when off-axis.

However, you can definitely still see the content that is on-screen quite clearly even if you are standing like 80 degrees from it on the side.


EDIT: I forgot to mention that it supports full RGB color space and in fact has an option in the menu that lets you switch between full 0-255 and limited 16-235. I'll be adding that and the above-mentioned content to my list.

Heck I may just practically make that list my "full review", since the only thing it's pretty much missing are image recreations of what the upscaling looks like and what image scaling settings I did to achieve that (so you can test with your own content). I've already done some preliminary tests by comparing a PC hookup @ 1920x1080 vs composite @ 240p and VGA @ 480p & 720p.


Oh, uh, there's actually a minor bug with the picture modes. I don't know if this applies to all the inputs, but on VGA if you change your picture mode the setting labled "Color" will not apply unless you manually go into the menu and change its value. This seemed to have happened with the phase setting from time to time as well, but I only recall it happening when I was testing with EDID overrides on Intel GPUs (Protip: EDID does not work on Intel GPUs, even if you create the monitor's ini driver file manually).
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post #21 of 291 Old 10-07-2013, 11:40 AM
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Hmmm - good info. I guess I'll have to try and see one in a store to really assess the screen.

Another question: Do you know if you can zoom in on a photo while viewing with the USB photo view function? And, do you know what the longest interval is for the slideshow mode? (How long will it leave one picture up?) I enjoy this on my LG after taking photos I just plug the camera in and see what I've got on a nice big screen...

Thanks.

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post #22 of 291 Old 10-07-2013, 11:51 AM
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Oh, I have a dedicated PC hooked up to it so I found the image viewer to be quite lame by comparison. :P I've only really fiddled with it once, and that was just to see what it does. I'll check it in a bit...

I did however just install the newest firmware, but TBH it didn't seem to really change anything other than moving the icons showing the audio... channel changing MAY be a teeny bit faster though, but the above-mentioned bug still exists.

Speaking of said bug, the setting actually seems to NEVER stay applied, at least on the VGA. If you change input, it gets reset to 0 but it won't actually say 0 in the menu. It only seems to apply to the specific setting named "Color" and nothing else. I'll test it on other inputs in a bit as well... then maybe I can finally add all that newer info to my list.


EDIT: Crap! I never tested the input lag difference between composite, VGA, and HDMI! I need to totally go do that.

EDIT 2: The included stand for the TV is a bit poor - I mean it works fine and seems to be relatively solid, but it's not perfectly level and/or balanced. In particular my TV leans a bit to the left, but due to the way my living room is set up it isn't really noticeable.

EDIT 3: I said that 4:4:4 chroma is supported over HDMI, but I forgot to say that 4:4:4 chroma + audio is supported as well. I was able to test this with an Intel 965 chipset which will output full 4:4:4 chroma when using a horizontal resolution of 1360 or less regardless of whether audio is being output over HDMI or not.

EDIT 4: I can also confirm that the "color" setting reset bug only happens on VGA and no other input.

EDIT 5: There is one weakness to the clean-ness of the composite, and that is fast motion. The post-processing seems to not be applied in full to every single frame but rather is applied bit by bit to each successive frame - this is most clearly seen with things like a mouse pointer or a Wii remote cursor - when you move it over something, that object behind the cursor becomes blurrier; if the object in question doesn't move much, during the next second or so you can visibly see that it will "clean up" and go back to looking crisp.

EDIT 6: Yet again something else I forgot - you can switch the TV input with only the input button. Pressing "Input" once brings up the input selection menu and everytime you press the input button it will move the highlighted selection on the menu down by one and will go back to the top if the lowest input-menu selection is highlighted; then not pressing any button for 2 seconds will have the highlighted input be selected. Also note that you can completely disable inputs via the menu settings - this will make the selection in the input menu completely skip over any disabled inputs, allowing you to not have to press the input button as many times.

EDIT 7: Here's the user's manual for the TV, it should answer a lot of questions regarding menus:
http://support.toshiba.com/support/staticContentDetail?contentId=3596913

EDIT 8:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Likes_Games View Post

Do you know if you can zoom in on a photo while viewing with the USB photo view function?
You cannot, or at least I can't find anything to do that...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Likes_Games View Post

And, do you know what the longest interval is for the slideshow mode? (How long will it leave one picture up?)
Longest slideshow image interval is 90 seconds. However you can view images without using a slideshow, so you can just manually go to the next image without having to set a time interval, which in effect makes the longest interval be infinite amount of time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Likes_Games View Post

I enjoy this on my LG after taking photos I just plug the camera in and see what I've got on a nice big screen...
Just a heads up, the TV's USB port can only read from USB mass storage devices formatted to FAT, FAT32, or NTFS. Also it's only compatible with JPEG/JPG images and MP3 audio. I did previously test card readers and a hard drive with two partitions, but I don't remember the test results... I also haven't tested the Linux-based Ext filesystems yet.

EDIT 9: USB hubs and card readers work, and you can even have multiple devices plugged in. However you have to plug in the memory card or the USB drive into the card reader and/or USB hub first, and then plug it into the TV. Also, even though you can have multiple devices plugged in, the TV will only acknowledge that one of the plugged-in devices even exist.

EDIT 10: Multiple partitions also work, but the TV will only see the last partition on the drive.

EDIT 11: The USB port on the TV will always provide power as long as the TV is on, so you can use the USB port for devices that use USB for nothing but power.

EDIT 12: The LCD panel uses a blue-green-red sub-pixel layout. This is important for things like Windows ClearType.
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post #23 of 291 Old 10-08-2013, 09:27 AM
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Wow - thanks for the answers - you're really digging deep into this one! I wish you were evaluating other stuff I'm contemplating buying! Good job. Sounds like the image viewer may be a bit too basic for what I like to do then... Thanks for checking that out.

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post #24 of 291 Old 10-08-2013, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post

EDIT 6: Yet again something else I forgot - you can switch the TV input with only the input button. Pressing "Input" once brings up the input selection menu and everytime you press the input button it will move the highlighted selection on the menu down by one and will go back to the top if the lowest input-menu selection is highlighted; then not pressing any button for 2 seconds will have the highlighted input be selected. Also note that you can completely disable inputs via the menu settings - this will make the selection in the input menu completely skip over any disabled inputs, allowing you to not have to press the input button as many times.
You're doing it the hard way. Input followed by number always goes directly to desired input. Also a few post up are all the discrete input codes for selecting any input with a single command from a universal or cable remote.


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post #25 of 291 Old 10-08-2013, 11:50 AM
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You're doing it the hard way. Input followed by number always goes directly to desired input. Also a few post up are all the discrete input codes for selecting any input with a single command from a universal or cable remote.
1. I only have OTA & Internet. I'm essentually a cord-cutter that never had cable in the first place. tongue.gif

2. This means I have no cable remote nor universial remote.

3. It's way simpler for my nearly 60-year-old parents to just press the input button a couple times due to its location in the very top-left of the remote.

Also it arguably takes just as much time to do input -> number because you have to put the remote down anyway - or at least I do because I pretty much never use the TV for much of anything other than for HTPC and gaming (it's my parents that actually use it as a TV). So within that 2 second window of waiting for the highlighted input to be selected I put down the remote and grab the mouse/keyboard or game controller.

And remember, it's only 2 seconds. The difference between hitting the input button, say, three times in a row (which you could do very quickly) + the 2 seconds of waiting compared to hitting input and then locating and moving your finger/thumb to the correct numbered button could very well take just as much time.


For the record, I have used input -> number before, but the only time I'd ever found it useful was when I was trying to directly compare the image between two inputs, such as when I was doing my preliminary upscaling tests. But soon after I found out that the "CH RTN" button makes that situation moot because all it does is directly switch between your current and previous input.


EDIT: It just hit me, like I said the biggest benefit for input -> number are situations where you don't put down the remote, such as live TV. If you're on any other input other than antenna, like say, HDMI, and you want to go to channel 5, you don't have to go back to the antenna input with the input button - you can just press 5 on the remote and it'll automatically take you to the antenna on channel 5.


EDIT 2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Likes_Games View Post

Wow - thanks for the answers - you're really digging deep into this one!
I'm just OCD like that. tongue.gif Just knowing that I could have missed something that could be a deal-killer for somebody...

The thing is, there were several things that drove me insane about HDTVs for years, and many of those things are just not covered in reviews, such as 240p composite upscaling and composite input lag. One thing that particularly comes to mind is that the RCA analog audio outputs on the TV are pre-amp - the dead Trinitron CRT had post-amp outputs; this is a big deal because my father's 38-year old analog receiver still worked perfectly when the TV was bought, and it is old enough that it didn't have a remote for volume control.

(said amplifier has since started having random audio popping & crackling issues, so we're getting a new Denon receiver for free via frequent flier mile awards - this solves the remote volume issue and the part where my father has been wanting a new receiver for like 10 years now tongue.gif)
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You can get a cable remote for $3 on ebay that will not only let you use 1 button commands for each input but also program macros to turn on the TV and switch to the proper input with a single button. Can't get any easier for your parents than that. So one button for HTPC mode and another for OTA mode. If anything ever takes me more than one or two button presses, I've failed as a programmer. My parents are a lot older than yours, so I have to make things even simpler for them. Plus being several hundred miles away and unable to fix things for them, everything has to always work perfectly.

Even if a universal remote isn't in your future, the extra thinking required to figure out how many times to press input, depending on where you start, is going to be longer than memorizing a few input numbers, so you can change inputs without thinking at all.

In any case, IIRC, if I'm on an HDMI input and press a number, I just get an error, not a channel. But I could be thinking of my other Toshiba, so I'm not certain.

Changing subjects a little, have you considered adding a tuner to your HTPC, so you get a free DVR out of the deal? The DVR functionality of Windows Media Center, or XBMC if you prefer, is fantastic.


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Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

You can get a cable remote for $3 on ebay that will not only let you use 1 button commands for each input but also program macros to turn on the TV and switch to the proper input with a single button. Can't get any easier for your parents than that. My parents are a lot older than yours, so I have to make things even simpler for them.
My mother is quite non-tech-savvy and my father seems to inconsistently not be able to learn anything new. (for reference, his mother died for Alzheimer's)
Quote:
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So one button for HTPC mode and another for OTA mode. If anything ever takes me more than one or two button presses, I've failed as a programmer. The extra thinking required to figure out how many times to press input, depending on where you start, is going to be longer than memorizing a few input numbers, so you can change inputs without thinking at all.
In my experience it seems easier for my parents to be able to change input via a single button that's located on the remote in a relatively obvious location. For reference, the previous Trinitron CRT used a single button for cycling through inputs, and we had that CRT for 12-13 years. I believe the issue comes not from navigating on-screen menus but rather navigating the remote itself.

This is also partially why I haven't looked into a universial remote - I feel that having more buttons would overwhelm them. Heck, maybe even their vision is part of it - my mom is far sighted while my father is extremely near-sighted.
Quote:
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In any case, IIRC, if I'm on an HDMI input and press a number, I just get an error, not a channel. But I could be thinking of my other Toshiba, so I'm not certain.
I just tested it from HDMI. and it works just fine. That's with OTA however, maybe cable makes a difference?
Quote:
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Changing subjects a little, have you considered adding a tuner to your HTPC, so you get a free DVR out of the deal? The DVR functionality of Windows Media Center, or XBMC if you prefer, is fantastic.
Have considered it, but I've no remote for said HTPC, and having at least dual tuners would be a must. I call it an HTPC, but it's more like a laptop with a damaged case and a crappy battery with the Windows 7 icons and GUI optimized for use on a 39" TV that's sitting 10 feet away from you. For reference, my father was young enough when Windows 95 came out, so the knowledge on how to use a Windows GUI (other than Win8 wink.gif) is firmly implanted in his brain...usually. tongue.gif

Getting/rigging up a DVR is the next thing I want to do (after the new receiver gets delivered and set up), but I'm not exactly sure what would be the best way to go about it in my situation...


EDIT: Wait a minute, I just remembered that I have a remote from an old & dead HDTV that I think is a universial remote, but I cannot be sure... Even if my parents won't use said remote, I personally really liked the remote when the HDTV it went to was working.
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Have considered it, but I've no remote for said HTPC, and having at least dual tuners would be a must. I call it an HTPC, but it's more like a laptop with a damaged case and a crappy battery with the Windows 7 icons and GUI optimized for use on a 39" TV that's sitting 10 feet away from you. For reference, my father was young enough when Windows 95 came out, so the knowledge on how to use a Windows GUI (other than Win8 wink.gif) is firmly implanted in his brain...usually. tongue.gif

Getting/rigging up a DVR is the next thing I want to do (after the new receiver gets delivered and set up), but I'm not exactly sure what would be the best way to go about it in my situation...


EDIT: Wait a minute, I just remembered that I have a remote from an old & dead HDTV that I think is a universial remote, but I cannot be sure... Even if my parents won't use said remote, I personally really liked the remote when the HDTV it went to was working.
HTPC remote is no problem. Just get a $13 dongle like THIS Sanoxy. Use the included remote or a universal for everything as I do. My HTPC is Win 7 with everything blown up for 10 ft visibility as well. Windows Media Center is free. Dual tuner OTA box (HD HomeRun Dual) runs $100 new or $75 used. There are other software options, but WMC is the easiest to set up and use.

Insignia and Vizio used to come with very nice universal remotes. In fact, I have neither of those brand TVs, but I use their remotes all the time because they are super cheap on ebay and extremely programmable. The VUR8 is especially nice and can be made to work with an HTPC and all the Toshiba codes I posted.

In case you're interested, my HTPC system is described below. I don't game, but my kids do on other PCs and systems. My HTPC is just for my whole home DVR, web surfing, streaming, and music/videos/photos.

- HTPC connected directly to main Sony TV in family room. Ortek IR dongle for remote control. Xsight Touch universal RF remote with a dozen or so macros for HTPC, disc playback, music, streaming, 3 game systems, lighting and home automation.
- DVR clients (Ceton Echoes and Xboxes) in 4 other rooms using various universal remotes (whatever was cheapest on ebay)
- DVR clients (WMC and Remote Potato) on several other laptops, desktops, iPhones, iPads, iPods, Droids

So I can basically record anything and watch it from anywhere in the world. I have cable, but OTA works with WMC just the same.

Sorry for getting so far OT.

If you end up trying that old universal, all the Toshiba setup codes are in my old Toshiba thread linked in my earlier post with all the pronto hex.


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post #29 of 291 Old 10-08-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

Insignia and Vizio used to come with very nice universal remotes. In fact, I have neither of those brand TVs, but I use their remotes all the time because they are super cheap on ebay and extremely programmable. The VUR8 is especially nice and can be made to work with an HTPC and all the Toshiba codes I posted.

If you end up trying that old universal, all the Toshiba setup codes are in my old Toshiba thread linked in my earlier post with all the pronto hex.
You're right, they are very nice - using the magic of Google reverse image search I found out that said remote that I liked so much is actually an Insignia-rebadged Vizio VUR4! I was able to only get it working with the TV and Sony VCR (haven't gotten it working with our JVC VCR-DVD combo yet). However, I don't seem to be able to get any codes to work on the remote's TV selection - it only seems to program on the AUX, DVD, and CBL selections

For reference, the universal remote code that worked on my Toshiba 39L1350U HDTV was 10156.


EDIT: I cannot seem to find a PDF manual for the VUR4, only for the VUR5. I don't even know if you can even program buttons to switch directly to an input...

EDIT 2: It would also seem that, with my Insignia-rebadged VUR4, I cannot change the TV's picture size, picture mode, or zoom/aspect ratio no matter if I use AUX, DVD, and/or CBL. Perhaps this functionality requires using the TV selection on the remote, which I obviously cannot program?

EDIT 3: The enter button on my Insignia-rebadged VUR4 remote is read by the TV as the menu button, even though the menu button on said remote also is read as "menu" by the TV.

EDIT 4: Would it be possible to use this Insignia-rebadged VUR4 in Windows Media Center?
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post #30 of 291 Old 10-08-2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post

You're right, they are very nice - using the magic of Google reverse image search I found out that said remote that I liked so much is actually an Insignia-rebadged Vizio VUR4! I was able to only get it working with the TV and Sony VCR (haven't gotten it working with our JVC VCR-DVD combo yet). However, I don't seem to be able to get any codes to work on the remote's TV selection - it only seems to program on the AUX, DVD, and CBL selections

For reference, the universal remote code that worked on my Toshiba 39L1350U HDTV was 10156.


EDIT: I cannot seem to find a PDF manual for the VUR4, only for the VUR5. I don't even know if you can even program buttons to switch directly to an input...

/EDIT 2: It would also seem that, with my Insignia-rebadged VUR4, I cannot change the TV's picture size, picture mode, or zoom/aspect ratio no matter if I use AUX, DVD, and/or CBL. Perhaps this functionality requires using the TV selection on the remote, which I obviously cannot program?

EDIT 3: The enter button on my Insignia-rebadged VUR4 remote is read by the TV as the menu button, even though the menu button on said remote also is read as "menu" by the TV.

EDIT 4: Would it be possible to use this Insignia-rebadged VUR4 in Windows Media Center?
1. If it works like the VUR8, you can, using THESE instructions.

2. If 1 is true, just add those functions with the codes below.

3. If 1 is true, then you can move/copy/assign any function to any button in any device mode using the instructions in 1.

4. If it uses the same codes as the VUR5, the Media Center setup code is 21972 (or DVD/VCR 1972). But in this case you'll need an HP or Rosewill dongle instead of Sanoxy/Ortek. I've also posted all Media Center individual function codes below.

It's possible the TV code is simply locked to Vizio. You can try unlocking it as follows;
- Tap TV
- Hold Setup for 2 blinks then release
- 982 (2 blinks = locked, 4 blinks = unlocked)
- Repeat to toggle lock/unlock

Once unlocked you should be able to assign the Toshiba TV code, assuming Vizio didn't remove it altogether.

Even if TV code is locked forever, you should be able to assign a TV code to some other button.

Toshiba Codes
Code:
Discrete On  00006
Discrete Off  00010
PC  00212
HDMI 2  00215
HDMI 3  00219
Ant/Cable  00024
ColorStream HD (Component)  00213
HDMI 1  00217
0  00181
1  00185
2  00183
3  00187
4  00180
5  00184
6  00182
7  00186
8  00053
9  00057
Vol+  00247
Vol-  00246
Mute  00117
Ch+  00251
Ch-  00250
Power  00119
Recall  00244
Input  00058
Menu  00189
Exit  00229
Up Arrow  00191
Down Arrow  00195
Left Arrow  00248
Right Arrow  00249
Info  00188
Sleep  00120
Freeze  00036
Pic Mode  00088
Pic Size  00100
+100  00055
Fav   00232
CC  00106
Ch Rtn  00122
Enter  00065
Eject  00167
Pause/Step  00152
Play  00149
Stop  00153
Skip Fwd  00150
Rew  00148
FF  00155
Native  00113
Theater Wide 1  00177
Theater Wide 2  00175
Theater Wide 3  00179
Dynamic  00048
Standard  00046
Movie  00050
4:3 HD  00044
Skip Back  00154
Full  00051

Media Center Codes
Code:
#  00178
*  00170
0  00018
1  00010
2  00034
3  00026
4  00242
5  00234
6  00002
7  00250
8  00082
9  00074
Back  00027
Blue  00192
Channel Down  00154
Channel Up  00162
Clear  00098
DVD Menu   00243
Down  00186
Enter  00090
Fast Forward  00114
Green  00176
Green Start Button  00042
Guide  00003
Left  00019
Live TV  00235
More (i button)  00058
Music  00248
Mute  00066
OK  00035
Online Media  00179
Pause  00210
Pictures  00072
Play  00130
Play/Pause Combination  00065
Power Off  00099
Power On  00075
Radio  00144
Record  00122
Recorded TV  00080
Red  00216
Rewind  00106
Right  00011
Skip Back  00218
Skip Forward  00226
Standby  00050
Stop  00202
Teletext  00224
Up  00194
Videos  00096
Volume Down  00138
Volume Up  00146
Yellow  00168

I can also post all the individual function codes for your other devices. If you need them, just post the model numbers.


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