Sony 65W850a reviews - Page 138 - AVS Forum
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post #4111 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Shaun. View Post
Hey Sean, on lighter or all white screens do you notice any vignetting on your new set (darker vertical edges)? What is the build date on yours? Thanks!
I will definitely check and let you know. Never even looked cux I've been just fiddling with the set since I just got it yesterday. I'll dive deeper once I get home this evening.
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post #4112 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 12:02 PM
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Just for the sake of the thread could you concentrate discussion to w850a model (w850b has at least three other threads now )
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post #4113 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 12:31 PM
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Sean: Thanks man, really curious to know.

Raitzi: Hey, definitely. Sorry to derail, just on the verge of reaching a decision between the two and want to make sure it's the right choice.

What I'd really like to know is how many w850a owners have / don't have vignetting and how many have had success with white sand's ice rub method? Those that say they don't have vignetting, have you tried looking for it on a lighter colored background scene?
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Originally Posted by Shaun. View Post
What I'd really like to know is how many w850a owners have / don't have vignetting and how many have had success with white sand's ice rub method? Those that say they don't have vignetting, have you tried looking for it on a lighter colored background scene?
To me that is non-issue. Maybe my panel is good in that respect but I wont risk ruining my TV because I see no problem in the first place.
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post #4115 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 12:42 PM
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The frozen rub did not help for me but it is a minor concern. I notice it if I look but it's not as noticeable as clouding. I doubt anybody else would notice if you didn't point it out. With it's minor short comings I still consider the 65w850a the best 65in I've seen. You won't damage your screen. Just using this method. Get a micro fiber cloth, wet it and put it in the freezer. Take it out and mush it up till it's nice and soft then just wipe the screen like you would if you were doing a normal gentle screen cleaning. Concentrate on the right and left edges. It didn't help for me but at least I got the screen clean even though I doubt it was very dirty. You can really realize how hot those LED lights get as that ice cold micro fiber cloth really transfers the heat.

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post #4116 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by desmoface View Post
Yes, a big thanks to Whitesands for sharing his settings!

Steve
+1. Whitesands' settings tested on my 65w855a and quicky approved !

Very positive effect on image quality and banding.

Thank you !

Olivier.
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post #4117 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 03:46 PM
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I've been meaning to post here for 3 weeks. I wanted to make this short, but I have so much to say I can't. Hopefully the size won't cause most people to skip this. To read the whole thread carefully I'd need several more hours, so I just read roughly the first and last 20 pages. Too bad there is no compendium or FAQ culling the best info from this long thread. I put my questions in bold below for those who don't want to read my whole post. Hopefully that won't annoy anyone.

I agree with the consensus that this set has a beautiful colorful picture. I see the darkness around the edges which people call "vignetting" (?) but it doesn't bother me because I focus on the center of the TV. My one and only gripe is the problem people have used the following terms to describe: vertical banding, cloudiness, DSE (dirty screen effect), or shadows. I've heard people mention "radial banding" but I'm not sure how that's different than vertical banding? My 65W850A has several vertical bands of cloudiness/DSE and a central cloudy spot that looks very much like the 2 pictures here:

Sony 65W850a reviews

Going forward I'll just call it "cloudiness". I tell people it looks like 4 giant fingers (i.e. vertical bands) with a smeary palm in the middle. The cloudiness is visible against any light colored solid backgrounds which makes my TV look like it has dirty spots (DSE). Fortunately the majority of movies and TV are not solid colors, but I can still notice the cloudiness quite often because many movies have momentary solid backgrounds such as blue skies or green grass or white interior walls. It was annoyingly noticeable against the grass while watching a golf game. The motion (camera panning) makes it more obvious, but it's there even without any motion.

No retailers near me have any W850A sets left as demos to try, but I was able to try 2 additional new 65W850A sets where I bought it. I took a flash drive full of 1920x1080 solid color backgrounds. Both of those TVs had nearly identical cloudiness... just in slightly different patterns, but both sets had bad pixels, so mine was the best of the 3. Incidentally I tried the 70W850B while there with my flash drive and it had no cloudiness whatsoever. I've read posts in this thread saying the W850B is worse. I guess every set is different.

I tried the S&V settings and Whitesands' settings. I prefer his over S&V, but I tweaked them a bit. Everyone seems to see things differently. For instance, on my older Samsung or LG LCDs if I turn on tru motion (motion flow) I see the soap opera effect and hate it. I'd rather have judder on panning. For the W850A I found with the motion flow off I saw judder on 3D movies (but not 2D movies). (Is that normal?) With motion flow on standard, 3D movies looked fine. Best yet, this is the first set where motion flow at standard does not give me the soap opera effect, so I'm happy leaving it on. Apparently a few people still see the soap opera effect at this setting. Vivid mode is too much for me (a bit oversaturated).

Of all the settings I tweaked, the only setting that improved the cloudiness was increasing the backlight, so I set it to 10 (max). Will setting the backlight to max do any long-term harm to my set? I also tried wiping frozen ice, but I followed poor instructions on a Youtube video that said to hold it 10-20 seconds in 1 spot using a dry, flat frozen object (I used a flat ice pack). It had no effect at all, and I was afraid I might freeze/break my panel. If the theory is that there are thickness variations in the panel that get worse further away from the center of the panel as it's created, then it makes no sense to me how cold ice could fix that. Does anyone think wiping a frozen microfiber cloth quickly will be more effective than holding the ice in place as I tried? Is it the temperature or the motion that is supposed to help? Or is ice meant to fix a totally different type of problem than the cloudiness caused by the thickness variations in these W850A panels?

Several people have said the cloudiness is inherent to these W850A panels and you have to live with it as the trade-off to get the beautiful picture, but apparently there are some "golden" sets where the space-time-continuum aligned just right at that moment to make a perfect panel. A few lucky people got those. Sadly I didn't.

My perception from the portions of this long thread that I read is:
(1) most people don't have a problem with the cloudiness (maybe 60%)
(2) several people see the cloudiness but accept this as "just the way it is" and try to ignore it (maybe 30%)
(3) maybe 10% couldn't stand the cloudiness and returned the set

No idea if those numbers are accurate, but I wonder if the people in group (1) just don't look carefully enough for the cloudiness or there are more "golden" panels out there than we think. Someone on Amazon reviews said his 4th set was substantially better in cloudiness but still not perfect. My experience is 3 out of 3 with significant cloudiness. Given that, I think the "golden" panels are under 10% of the population... unless it was more "batch" dependent at the factory.

I asked for opinions from a few people who visited me recently. First person saw the issue instantly without me saying a word (it was when I was watching the golf game) and said I should return it. Next person couldn't see it for a good 5 minutes until there was a shot of white clouds and said "it's not that bad". Third person couldn't see it through 15 minutes of a movie (it wasn't a good choice because it was mostly dark) until I put in the flash drive with the solid backgrounds.

Bottomline for me: if there were another similarly priced and quality set without these cloudiness problems, I'd return it, but at $300 more I think the 70W850B would have an uglier picture and worse 3D even if I got lucky and the cloudiness issue wasn't there. I would've loved to buy the 4K 65X900A that was $2300 at Beach Camera recently, but that's another $800. My budget was $1800 tops.

Another key question: do people believe that the cloudiness problem will remain constant over the years or can it (will it) get worse over time?

If anyone wants to peek at the pictures in post #3324 and tell me if that level of cloudiness seems typical or worse than normal on these TVs, that would help. I'm torn between returning and keeping the set. My return time limit is almost over, but given that I have no alternatives and this TV's picture is so much better than what I had before, I'm probably going to grit my teeth and keep it. After all, the vast majority of movie scenes do not have solid color backgrounds and I'd guess on average it's a dozen times per movie that I notice it for a few seconds. For all its beautiful picture, the cloudiness issue prevents me from raving about it, and being somewhat OCD I know I'll always be aware of the cloudiness and I'll have to force myself to try to ignore it.
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post #4118 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 03:57 PM
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The radial banding looks like a bulls eye. It is similar to vertical banding, but instead of going from top to bottom in a vertical line, it bends like a circle. Vertical banding is going to be on every LCD, and as you get into larger LCD's it becomes more apparent. It is caused by the backlight filters and I have seen it get better over time as the backlight panel layers settle. Yes there are golden sets but the chance of you getting one is slim to none. The w850a was the first set ever that almost made me look past the banding because of how great the picture was. The colors are deep, blacks are excellent, and the overall picture has a lot of depth. I did end up returning mine though. My w900a is near perfect I just wish it was larger. If the vertical banding annoys you that much, then LCD tv's are not for you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post
The radial banding looks like a bulls eye. It is similar to vertical banding, but instead of going from top to bottom in a vertical line, it bends like a circle. Vertical banding is going to be on every LCD, and as you get into larger LCD's it becomes more apparent. It is caused by the backlight filters and I have seen it get better over time as the backlight panel layers settle. Yes there are golden sets but the chance of you getting one is slim to none. The w850a was the first set ever that almost made me look past the banding because of how great the picture was. The colors are deep, blacks are excellent, and the overall picture has a lot of depth. I did end up returning mine though. My w900a is near perfect I just wish it was larger. If the vertical banding annoys you that much, then LCD tv's are not for you.
Thanks for the explanation. I only have vertical banding and not radial banding then. I've had (smaller in size) LCDs in the past and never saw any vertical banding or cloudiness before, so this is the first I became aware that larger LCD sets commonly have this issue. I couldn't go any smaller than 65" and I think $2300 (if the deal were repeated) is still too expensive (for me) for a 65X900A. I haven't checked other forums for LG or Samsung 65" or 70" LCDs to see if the vertical banding/cloudiness issue is common on those too (according to what's been stated they should all have this problem to some degree except for the elusive "golden" sets). If it is, then all the more reason to keep what I've got. I used to think I only had to worry about bad pixels, but now there's cloudiness in the panel itself.

Did you return your 65W850A solely because of the cloudiness?

Also, I'll add something that I just found in an old post by Whitesands. It sounded like he said the ice trick was good for fixing "vignetting" around the edges of the screen, but it wasn't clear to me if the ice trick is supposed to help with vertical banding/cloudiness too?
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post #4120 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 05:53 PM
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Actually the 'ice-fix' is to remove or reduce way down any vignetting or dark on the sides of the screen. It can sometimes be seen about 2" in on each side of the screen. Sometimes this is due to watching the set and being to close. Sony's recommended viewing distance is 9 feet on the W850a set.

I later found out after doing the ice fix that after a few more months of using the set the heat in the panel had removed the rest of the vignetting problem I was having. I had bought the first W850a set that Amazon sold back in early October last year. The vignetting was horrible on my set. Sony wanted so bad to send me a new set. I refused as my set had a great picture and no pixel problems. I searched google for days and finally found how to use a frozen flat cloth to rub the screen's sides to clear up the problem. I think it has something to do with the triluminos filters as you can stand in front of the side of the TV and the dark side will go away. My set is now 10 months old and once it cleared up it's never came back.

The ice fix won't help any banding of clouding issues. I do include some noise-filters set to off that got rid of the little banding I had on my set. Clouding to me is when the LED's are running without any HD signal applied. I have never seen any clouding on my set when watching many blu ray movies or regular TV shows.
I will say, i'm watching my set using my few picture-mode setting changes.

WS
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post #4121 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 06:30 PM
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I forgot to mention that Sony did something to the 2014 build date for the W850a sets seemed to have cleared up the vignetting problem. They were a few around Feb or March that ask for the ice treatment I used. I doubt their vignetting was anything near as bad as my much earlier Sept 2013 build date set.

Do remember the 9 foot viewing distance. I have my camera/tripod sitting only 6 foot from the TV screen which I took these screen shots.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Vingetting Gone 002_.jpg (148.6 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Vingetting Gone 004_.jpg (149.6 KB, 17 views)

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post #4122 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 07:12 PM
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No testing needs to be done to determine what panel is in the 70". You can see in the product specs that the 70w850b comes with active 3d glasses. Also, I have seen the 70" model, it is clearly a VA panel (and a very low quality one at that).
Probably an AUO MVA seems like at least the last couple of years the 70" have been a bit of an orhpan
although Sony is using AUO MVA in almost all of the 8x sets this year .

No 70" AUO glass at panelook though
none for LG either but LG has a passive 3D 2014 set so that doesn't mean anything especially if it's a new panel '

I think Sony was using some sort of Sharp ASV last year in the 70"R5 I think the 65 and under 8x,8.5x *may be* the better deal than the 70" for PQ both are over my budget .

. I've seen those but not the 70" so ofc I wouldn't know sure.

ofc bigger panels are more expensive and hard to make at quality and with LCD that's a tall (expensive ) order at anything over 65" or even at 65" I could see 4K at 70" . Probably have to make the move to Sony 79" 9x or LG 9x,
maybe a large Sammy if U like curved screens to get a top 70" + LCD picture both are over my budget .

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post #4123 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tubetwister View Post
Probably an AUO MVA seems like at least the last couple of years the 70" have been a bit of an orhpan
although Sony is using AUO MVA in almost all of the 8x sets this year .

No 70" AUO glass at panelook though
none for LG either but LG has a passive 3D 2014 set so that doesn't mean anything especially if it's a new panel '

I think Sony was using some sort of Sharp ASV last year in the 70"R5 I think the 65 and under 8x,8.5x *may be* the better deal than the 70" for PQ both are over my budget .

. I've seen those but not the 70" so ofc I wouldn't know sure.

ofc bigger panels are more expensive and hard to make at quality and with LCD that's a tall (expensive ) order at anything over 65" or even at 65" I could see 4K at 70" . Probably have to make the move to Sony 79" 9x or LG 9x,
maybe a large Sammy if U like curved screens to get a top 70" + LCD picture both are over my budget .
Thanks to Andy Sullivan providing me with the panel model number of his 70w850b, they are Samsung panels, SPVA4 6-bit + FRC (explains the poor color reproduction). Mystery solved.
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post #4124 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 08:40 PM
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Actually the 'ice-fix' is to remove or reduce way down any vignetting or dark on the sides of the screen. ....

I later found out after doing the ice fix that after a few more months of using the set the heat in the panel had removed the rest of the vignetting problem I was having. .... I think it has something to do with the triluminos filters as you can stand in front of the side of the TV and the dark side will go away. ...

The ice fix won't help any banding of clouding issues. I do include some noise-filters set to off that got rid of the little banding I had on my set. Clouding to me is when the LED's are running without any HD signal applied. I have never seen any clouding on my set when watching many blu ray movies or regular TV shows.
WhiteSands, thanks for the clarification on the ice fix. If I have the vignetting problem, it doesn't bother me and the darkness around the edge is pretty even. I was trying to remove the cloudiness (DSE) in the center of the screen with the ice, and you say it's not meant for that problem. That would explain why the ice didn't work (though I was just holding it on various spots rather than wiping)!

I started with your settings exactly and still had the cloudiness issues, so I guess those noise filter settings (do you recall which ones?) didn't help me. Then I tried various other changes none of which affected the cloudiness (except setting my backlight to 10 (max)).

You said cloudiness to you is when there is no HD signal applied. Are you saying that when there is a signal applied to your TV (including a solid colored sky, green grass during a golf game, a flash drive with a solid color JPG, or even something as basic as the Windows XP blue-ish login screen being shown) that you don't see any vertical banding or cloudiness whatsoever? If yes, then you must have one of those "golden" sets in terms of cloudiness. I see the cloudiness with or without a HD signal, though it looks different without a signal and I'm not worried about the uneven blotches or banding with no signal. I'm solely judging the cloudiness when my TV has a signal.

Given that nobody has mentioned any similar priced better quality TVs that don't have the cloudiness, I guess I must live with it because between having an old 55" LG TV with no cloudiness vs. the 65" Sony with cloudiness, the larger, more vibrant screen is still an improvement in spite of the cloudiness. It's like the 65W850A is so close to what I wanted in terms of a TV, but then the cloudiness issue ruins that. It's like wearing an immaculate Armani suit and then topping it off by putting on a $5 straw hat. So close...

You said that the vignetting problem improves with age. Do you believe that over time the cloudiness/vertical banding issue will not get any worse? It's right at the borderline of what I can handle now. Knowing that Sony technically doesn't consider it a defect, if it got worse I don't know what I'd do. If it remains constant, then I can probably live with it for 3-4 years until I can get a 70" 4K TV for $1500. I sure hope they keep making 3D TVs.

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post #4125 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 09:29 PM
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Keep it simiple, the clouding I was speaking of is when your don't have a HD signal applied. Somehow the LED's on this set run at twice their normal brightness and Sony puts up a black screen so they don't hurt you eyes.

I don't like the idea of seeing any cloudness with a regular HDTV signal. To me this may be a weak panel or just a maybe it's from your HD signal source although I have never heard of it. Another set in your home using the same signal source would be a good way to prove that.

I never see any clouding on any blu ray movies on my set or any HDTV shows from my dish network receiver using my settings. I ask many to first do a full-set reset before putting in my settings. This is if they had used a long list of calibrated settings.

I did see a little banding when watching a few live hockey games when the camera would fast sweep the ice rink. After putting in the Cnet's 5 steps to a better picture, I call it, noise-filters set to Off. I did that on my set and is in my settings list. That got rid of the little banding I was seeing during the few ice hockey games I watched.

I don't know much about vertical banding. I did read watching the set using Vivid minimized the problem. After reading the many customer reports on Amazon with the other major brands of TV, this Sony set may be better than what I first though of it earlier this year.

Some may have a better eye than me looking for banding or clouding. You might have a look at your ECO settings. Press Home on the remote, Settings, then picture &

I will warn you that sometimes it's the HD signal source and not your TV. My set arrived in early October last year during the pro football season. I found I could get a touch better picture by watching from the TV stations located in El Paso using my 30 foot UHF-only TV antenna + a mast mounted pre-amp in our backyard.

I kept seeing lots of motion blur and pixelation during the games with fast close-up plays, that was driving me crazy. I kept notes and kept trying the many motionflow settings this set has to offer. None seemed to help.

One game during the first quarter I decided to try switching to the dish network to see if it did the same. Lucky I had left the motionflow set to standard on my Vivid selection. I was amazed the pixelation was completely gone and after ten minutes of viewing the game. I kept on looking for motion blur and that was also gone. I was then very happy with this set and I do watch many games each week and weekend during the pro football season.

I don't know but doubt the banding or clouding your seeing with a good signal applied will get any better as heat goes though your panel. I'm slightly suspecting a bad panel but best to test for sure if that's the problem. I would complain more about he clouding as banding is usually on fast moving scenes which only last for a few seconds.
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post #4126 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 10:19 PM
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Looking for "better" than 65w850a.

I have a 65w850a which is very nice. Also an 80" vizio M which I'm happy with purely based on size vs cost. Tried a 70" Sharp S Q+ which I wasnt happy with and returned. I need another 65 or70" set. So my question- is there a significantly "better" 65" or 70" set than the 850a?
Thanks
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post #4127 of 4137 Old Yesterday, 10:53 PM
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Yes, but the cost is also "significantly" more. There is always better out there if you are willing to pay for it. Also "better" is very subjective. You probably won't get a consensus as everyone has tier own idea of "better". There are better plasma and LCD sets available now, but at this price point (~1200-1500) there are a few choices, but again each may be "better" and "worse" all at the same time.


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post #4128 of 4137 Old Today, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post
Thanks to Andy Sullivan providing me with the panel model number of his 70w850b, they are Samsung panels, SPVA4 6-bit + FRC (explains the poor color reproduction). Mystery solved.
re tubetwister

Where the heck did you find find that you you da man ! You have secret link or list somewhere panelook didn't have anything on that panel wouldn't be the first time Sony put a SPVA4 6-bit + FRC panel in a set .

@ andy sullivan @ *UFO*
On last years sets with this kind of panel (smaller also ) The colors are usually radioactive or neon looking on some of the of the pre sets and they push red and blue badly sometimes until you fix it sometimes ofc that's the set on the red push I think, just set it to neut color temp it takes care of that without pushing blue . thing was terrible out of the box
I believe last years 70 R5 Bravia used a Sharp ASV panel AFAIK total different panel this one might be better once it is set up. it depends on a couple of things though so it could go either way .



I believe these panels like to dither aimlessly more than usual if they don't get fed enough chroma bits and it can make some stuff like dark back grounds look veiled or foggy but a lot of sets are like that anyway .
as long as it's making colors (or B/W ) from a decent signal it's fine good as most 8 bits better than quite a few of them IMO. at least on the smaller panels have not seen the 70 yet at lest we know where Sony is cutting costs .
depends on the black level and the contrast if they are good like the smaller ones its usually much better than an 8 bit panel with less black and contrast as a rule .

I have the 2013 40R4 with one like this set up right it spanks most any other 40 out there including a 5x 6x Sammy ,the FALD Vizio and a lot of bigger sets better color and picture detail but it took me a while to get it that way because what you have to do might not align with conventional wisdom it wont won't spank my larger PDP but not too many LCD will .
and all the reviewers got it wrong except one in the UK but I saw that after I figured mine out


I was pissed when I found out my set had a 6 bit +high FRC panel at first until I figured out how to set it and the excellent contrast and black levels it has in my case . As it turned out in the end it really was not an issue partly because of the contrast and blacks on this panel .

Also when I read how these new ones work these will actually make 8 bit color just fine all of it
not like the older ones on PC or maybe older TV that were crappy . New ones have modern advances in the dithering algorithms and faster sample and hold times and switching circuits in the panel drivers it's pretty clever how they do it actually . They are doing that with some 8 bit panels in 4 K sets now to make 10 bit color that you would think requires a 10 bit panel Samsung seems to have this down pretty good . .

Most Sony are much more accurate in Cinema mode but you have to turn up the backight and contrast the Cinema mode the defaults are way low the Cinema mode, gamma pre set should be spot on in Cinema mode . .
Set them up right and feed them a good signal and they play pretty well as well as many 8 bit panels and better than quite a few . (ofc that is assuming the 70" panel has good black and contrast like last years smaller Samsung panels in the smaller Bravias if it does it's fixable otherwise toss it ☺☺☺☺

Best thing to balance (fine tune ) color saturation and brightness is this Sony color blind test they have a video and some images do like it says and you will be good and not over saturated like all the pre sets its very clever and it works well
you can play it on a stick and set it globally if you have that option or what I would do is set it with the stick or play it or steam it to the set from a PC and copy the settings to the other modes ( I think downloading the actual files to a stick are better because browsers render color differently most of the time )also maybe crank up the brights 5 pts in game and general mode

Sony Color blind Tests



Short of a decent full on calibration I would peg the back light and Contrast in both of the cinema modes or any mode actually watch your color saturation and turn off any blinking back light business auto brightness and Eco stuff if present best picture is in Cinema mode if you have 2 use 1 for day and 2 for night and knock the brightness down 5 pts at night for black level goodness .

On a pattern or disc set brightness to reference black (just so know where it is ) because you will have to bring it up anyway to get adequate illumination, the trick is not to bring it up so far that it clips whites or washes out blacks or to low where it crushes blacks and shadow detail it takes some time to find the sweet spot and 5 pts either way can affect it more than you would think under some conditions . my brights are perfect at 50 night and 55-59 day depending
most calibrations published were close to that but they totally missed the most important cinema mode thing
and used general instead ( doesn't sent fly well on my set ) one of the better and very good UK sites got it right I like them better than Cnet .


Do it right and the picture might surprise you. . Out of the box pre sets sometimes will make you want to send them back long as it has good blacks and contrast like the smaller ones they can spank a lot of 8 bit panels (if they are set up right ....if not you might not get good results . ofc if it has poor blacks and contrast your'e fighting a loosing battle .

OH Important set pixels at 1:1 or Full pixel
auto display area off 4:3 default off if you overcan /underscan by as little as 2-3% you could loose half of your resolution and not even know it not a good thing on a big panel color temp should be neutral otherwise colors will be skewed neon green lawns and lavender blues sometimes but when they are set right
(if the 70 is like the smaller ones ) they can be sleepers .

Maybe these are Samsung cells with Foxconn fabricated and installed back lights like some of the other ones
would be interesting to see at least the contrast spec they might have a 10 bit signal interface but I think they overdrive it in 8 bit mode for the most part surprisingly when the smaller ones are set up right you would never know it was a 6 bit + high FRC panel at all except it doesent like to make Cyan without adding in some extra blue not an issue you would notice in normal viewing a lot of sets are like that whatever panel they have .

"The wireless music box has no commercial value. Who would pay for a message sent to nobody in particular?"
- David Sarnoff's associates at RCA the 1920's -

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post #4129 of 4137 Old Today, 07:50 AM
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Update on my 4mo set not powering on...
Had two technicians at my home yesterday for 4 hours and they replaced the two power supply boards on the left. Still no power. They did voltage tests on every conceivable part and discovered that there was no 5 volt current. 12 volts yes. Im not tech savy but the set needs 5 volts besides the 12 volts to function. I spoke with SONY this morning and told them that I am very upset that my 4mo old set stopped working and still doesn't work after they sent 2 parts instead of 3 (main board on the right). It has been over a week and now I need to wait up to 3 more days to hear back from a different department that will decide what to do next. Do they want to send me a new set? Send out the main board and have the technicians come back? I like this set very much when it worked but will most likely want them to reimburse me if they do decide to send out the technicians again to replace the main board. Pic quality isn't the best.
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post #4130 of 4137 Old Today, 08:43 AM
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Hey guys, i can get a refurbished one from sony for 1600. Im thinking thats a better deal than all the 2014 models
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post #4131 of 4137 Old Today, 08:59 AM
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Considering that what the new ones were going for recently, I'd try to get a better deal.


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post #4132 of 4137 Old Today, 09:10 AM
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Considering that what the new ones were going for recently, I'd try to get a better deal.


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Where can you even get a new one ph8te?
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post #4133 of 4137 Old Today, 09:34 AM
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You have to keep your eyes open for deals etc. They seem to go in and out of stock at Sony. Your best bet may be local shops.


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post #4134 of 4137 Old Today, 09:45 AM
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You have to keep your eyes open for deals etc. They seem to go in and out of stock at Sony. Your best bet may be local shops.


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Thx alot man my only problem is its 65 inches. I like 55 so the 950b or samsung 7150 are on my radar
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Thx alot man my only problem is its 65 inches. I like 55 so the 950b or samsung 7150 are on my radar
Not sure where your located but I picked this set up brand new in the box from frys for 1,599$. 65in version.
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I think TV should automatically go to game mode if scene selection is Auto and you have HDMI device control enabled. Then TV sees that you have gaming console. At least this works with PS3.
It may go to game mode if in auto...although I run my tv in cinema mode. So all my gaming has been with it off. I've seen not positive comments on running the tv in AUTO mode vs say Vivid or Cinema. I thought about using Auto 24p, but haven't experimented with that yet

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Not sure where your located but I picked this set up brand new in the box from frys for 1,599$. 65in version.
Im in new jersey sean.thx alot man.im gonna go google them.

They got one on the website for 1999

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