Hi, I wonder if anyone can advise I've bought a UE32F5000AK to be set-up in our edit suite to be used as a cheap client monitor.
At the time of looking to buy, I went into many shops to compare screens and I was really impressed with the quality of the panel in this tv to all the others. The real techy type sites seem to agree giving it good reviews for picture reproduction/processing under scrutiny of calibrations tools.
And sure enough it provides a decent quality picture in operation and is a good side by side monitor to the proper reference monitors we use which cost upwards of 50k. Only downside is a heavy and badly applied AG coating but at the cost it's liveable with.
The fact it has a proper underscan mode, the option of blue guns only, white balance correction and decent calibration options really sold me on it - I've never seen these sort of options in consumer hardware. Very nice.
The external case is also great, with a lack of distractions of any kind on the case - no buttons and markings on the front, no silk screened branding or model numbers plastered all over it (looking at you LG) and the standby light (not blue - thank god) actually goes off when its powered on rather than changing colour and is not installed into the main casing so can be easily taped up to stop the remote flicker, brilliant.
Sadly the day to day living with this monitor is a disappointment and only due to the fact, I guess, Samsung has tried to hit some sort of energy saving marks with it or want to make this panel seem to achieve more than it's capable of with weird automatic modes, which are causing me real usage issues. I wonder if anyone can advise how to properly disable these, if they can be.
On a recent job both myself and a client noticed a flicker on this screen when we were bringing up white text on black backgrounds in one of our cuts, as I had disabled everything I was really confused with this and now in downtime I've tried to suss out what's actually going on here.
The panel is currently being fed an uncompressed clean HDMI (as much as HDMI can be) from the Avid (editing system). After disabling all auto options I set the screen to use a Picture Mode of standard. I notice however in this mode that the luminosity of the whole panel goes up if two items of white are on the screen. To test this I produced one white square on the left and then produced another white square on the right both on black, the overall brightness of the screen does not increase but the luminosity of both goes up when the second appears. Almost like there is some sort of automatic punching to make whites appear more extreme?
I then found out that others had this issue and used the Picture Mode of Movie to stop it. This does indeed stop this but gradients become pink. However there is still some sort of auto processing which appears when the fed image goes to dark or as we would call it pure black. For example if I dissolve (fade) an the image to black at the end of the image the panel hesitates for a beat and then dims off the back lighting to a dark panel, I guess this is to accentuate deeper blacks. This is a complete distraction! Can this be stopped?
The manual is a complete waste of time I only found out about the trick to switch on the 4:4:4 sampling on here. So I'm really hoping that someone knowledgeable with these panels is on here and knows how to stop the dimming and make this panel work as native as possible as otherwise I will have to dump it as it's not fit for purpose as I'm sure phoning Samsung technical support will draw a blank.
This behaves indeed as you say, in Movie mode when the screen is completelly black the backlight will go off.
As far as I know this behaviour cannot be disabled it happens in all units of this TV model... actually in most Samsung LCDs, I think...
It's not a big deal for me because it only happens when there's no visible information on the screen... and it's not noticeable in a bright environment anyway.
I have the same TV configured in Movie mode because the auto-dimming in Standard mode is highly annoying and distracting for me.
Other than that you can calibrate both Standard and Movie presets to have exactly the same picture, or at least identical.
Put exactly the same settings on both presets but decrease Backlight control by around 5 points and Color by around 8 ponts in Standard preset and both should look and measure pretty much the same.
There are some reports of people who say to have succesfully disabled auto-dimming, or at least reduced it to a point where it's almost unnoticeable in Standard mode but it required some tricky compromisse in calibration settings and it might still not apply when the screen is fully black... you might want to read and ask for help in the official thread below.
I've searched for a way to disable it in Service Menu but haven't found a setting for it yet... probably nobody as found the setting yet, if it exists at all... found even more extensive color and grayscale calibration controls though...
I don't recommend messing with the Service Menu anyway... if you don't know what you're doing, you might screw up your TV for good.
If color accuracy and wide viewing angle is more important than deep blacks and contrast in your application you might want to try an LCD with an IPS panel instead (Panasonic or LG), just make sure it's back-lit as this Samsung and not edge-lit...
But from what I've read and according to Pro reviews, at the price range this Samsung model seems to be the best screen overall so I don't know if it's worth to look at IPS at all if you want to keep within budget...
Would be interested to know what sort of reference monitor screens you are comparing the Samsung with... RGB backlight IPS?...
|Samsung Un32f5000 32 Inch Slim Led Hdtv|