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post #181 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 10:53 AM
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Many thanks nsxfan.
I also thought that ABL was only an issue with plasmas. And it actually stands for Automatic Brightness Limiter.

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post #182 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2mikey View Post

I agree at least with the OTA TV performance being dodgy. The problem is that with any TV this size its VERY dependent on signal quality. I found that my Pioneer did a better job with OTA but if my Pio was 65" I might have noticed more yukkiness. Not sure if video processing is the actual culprit but maybe thats it. The other night on FOX the wifey was watching *somewhere* Got Talent and it looked marvelous. Then, later, I checked out Castle on CBS and it was not too good. Its all over the place, for sure. So, I HAVE seen this set deliver a great OTA image. Its just damned sensitive - moreso than any of my other sets.

We have different viewing habits than you though. We are probably 60% streaming & blu-ray and about 40% OTA so its not as much of a concern for us. I understand though and it does sound like you'd better try something else. Honestly, I highly doubt a Vizio is going to be any better. Nothing against them but they are a bargain set like this Sammy. What about a Panasonic LE 65" LCD model? Or, maybe the Sony KDL 550A series? They make a 65" for about $2K. The Panny is about 4@k as well. Just some options.

Good Luck!
No reason to spend that much. Ive heard lots of good stuff about the Sharp LE650 and the Vizio e601. Both are less or about $1000 but thats for a 60".

Yes, the Sharp 650 series got a good review from Katzenmoyer at CNet whom I do like. 60" just wasnt quite enough - really wanted the 65". I know Sharp has that 70" model but it seems to be lingering in the $1700 range and thats just not what I want to do. Vizio does have some interesting models too. They dont have a 65" though and their 70" sets are much closer to $1500 than $1000. I was realy trying to stay low on the cash outlay. Prolly end up with something else in a few years....like an OLED or sumtin' wink.gif

I still think the $2,000 sets from Sony and Panny are worth loking at for someone that wants an image quality upgrade without going to crazy. Maybe even the higer end Sammies too, like the 7100 series or whatever.
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post #183 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2mikey View Post


Yes, the Sharp 650 series got a good review from Katzenmoyer at CNet whom I do like. 60" just wasnt quite enough - really wanted the 65". I know Sharp has that 70" model but it seems to be lingering in the $1700 range and thats just not what I want to do. Vizio does have some interesting models too. They dont have a 65" though and their 70" sets are much closer to $1500 than $1000. I was realy trying to stay low on the cash outlay. Prolly end up with something else in a few years....like an OLED or sumtin' wink.gif

I still think the $2,000 sets from Sony and Panny are worth loking at for someone that wants an image quality upgrade without going to crazy. Maybe even the higer end Sammies too, like the 7100 series or whatever.

 

Totally agree! I am extremely happy with this TV and its image quality (after tweaking of course). With 4K/OLED or who knows what next trickling out I know I will be upgrading in a 3-5 years when they, like usual drop to these prices to make room for the new ish. Paying $999 for a TV, you know you are not getting the top of the line but it has definitely impressed me, again for the money. I am personally very happy with the OTA and of course it depends on the channel. I run a Windows media center through this and last night I did my HD test which is Bladerunner and Avatar and was a very happy man:-) 

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post #184 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 12:44 PM
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This model just went up to $1499.99 at BB.

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post #185 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 01:04 PM
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Ok, this is very odd.  I got this TV about a week ago and the picture was horrible out of the box.  The colors were WAY off and basically needed a lot of tweaking, not to mention that there was a line of dead pixels running horizontally from the center of the tv to the edge.  The line of dead pixels made it completely unwatchable, but I watched it on occasion while waiting for BB to bring out a replacement.  The old tv actually completely broke yesterday, and it decided it was not going to turn on anymore.

 

Anyway, this new tv looks COMPLETELY different from the old one, even using the default settings it looks amazing!  It actually looks great without any tweaks at all.  It does have one tiny red stuck pixel, but I can only see it if I look for it, and I am hoping that UDPixel will take care of it.

 

I did not look to see what old panel I had, but this one is a MH01, I wish I would have checked to see what panel the old one was before they took it back.

 

Anyway, so which panels are people having the most luck with?

 

And yes, the price of the tv went up today to $1500, so I wonder if the door busters were units of lower quality.  I mean, the difference between the new and old TV's is truly night and day.  Anyway, it is something to think about... and if this is the case, it would be well worth taking the door buster back for one of the new ones.  Maybe that is why they do not have a demo at the store? 

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post #186 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supacatsf View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by s2mikey View Post

Yes, the Sharp 650 series got a good review from Katzenmoyer at CNet whom I do like. 60" just wasnt quite enough - really wanted the 65". I know Sharp has that 70" model but it seems to be lingering in the $1700 range and thats just not what I want to do. Vizio does have some interesting models too. They dont have a 65" though and their 70" sets are much closer to $1500 than $1000. I was realy trying to stay low on the cash outlay. Prolly end up with something else in a few years....like an OLED or sumtin' wink.gif


I still think the $2,000 sets from Sony and Panny are worth loking at for someone that wants an image quality upgrade without going to crazy. Maybe even the higer end Sammies too, like the 7100 series or whatever.

Totally agree! I am extremely happy with this TV and its image quality (after tweaking of course). With 4K/OLED or who knows what next trickling out I know I will be upgrading in a 3-5 years when they, like usual drop to these prices to make room for the new ish. Paying $999 for a TV, you know you are not getting the top of the line but it has definitely impressed me, again for the money. I am personally very happy with the OTA and of course it depends on the channel. I run a Windows media center through this and last night I did my HD test which is Bladerunner and Avatar and was a very happy man:-) 

Total dittos. I know Ill get something else in 3-4 years so $999 was a perfect amoun to spend for this set.
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

This model just went up to $1499.99 at BB.

Yep - at $1499 it is NOT as good of a value. Id prolly keep shopping at that price level. But, $999 is perfect wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by heywannalaugh View Post

Ok, this is very odd.  I got this TV about a week ago and the picture was horrible out of the box.  The colors were WAY off and basically needed a lot of tweaking, not to mention that there was a line of dead pixels running horizontally from the center of the tv to the edge.  The line of dead pixels made it completely unwatchable, but I watched it on occasion while waiting for BB to bring out a replacement.  The old tv actually completely broke yesterday, and it decided it was not going to turn on anymore.

Anyway, this new tv looks COMPLETELY different from the old one, even using the default settings it looks amazing!  It actually looks great without any tweaks at all.  It does have one tiny red stuck pixel, but I can only see it if I look for it, and I am hoping that UDPixel will take care of it.

I did not look to see what old panel I had, but this one is a MH01, I wish I would have checked to see what panel the old one was before they took it back.

Anyway, so which panels are people having the most luck with?

And yes, the price of the tv went up today to $1500, so I wonder if the door busters were units of lower quality.  I mean, the difference between the new and old TV's is truly night and day.  Anyway, it is something to think about... and if this is the case, it would be well worth taking the door buster back for one of the new ones.  Maybe that is why they do not have a demo at the store? 

I have an MH-01 panel and dont have any banding or other nastiness. I have it set pretty decently now. The football has looked really good so Im probably staying with this TV. $999 for a decent performing 65" TV. It wont ever make me forget my KURO which does bury it in most categories but I needed screen size and my Pio just didnt have it. Im pleasantly surprised Im keeping this set. smile.gif
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post #187 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 02:02 PM
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Well today I went and got an amplifier for my cable feed. Its a bidirectional one from radio shack for $25. After installing that my picture has virtually no artifacts on cable even within 1 foot of the screen. Anyone having artifacts may want to at least give an amplifier a try.
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post #188 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 06:24 PM
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So there is something to the whole "If you rename the hdmi port to pc. Few small tweaks the picture it's awesome".
I went into the source menu, hit tools, then changed HDMI to PC and all the settings reset...BUT i see a much clearer picture somehow!?
I think people should start messing with this.
 

So far, after many many many trial and error sessions my best settings were posted by s2mikey:

Mode = Standard
Backlight = 8
Contrast = 96
Brightness = 44 (this is a good balance between *some* dark scene detail and fairly deep blacks)
Sharpness = 5
Color = 46
Tint = G52/R48

Color Space = Native
Gamma = +2 (This helps tease out a tad more detail in dark scenes which I feel this set lacks. It does brighten things up too which isnt always desireable. Try out other values)

Dyn Contrast = OFF
Black Tone = Darkest
Fleshtone = -7 (Ive been messing with this a lot. It almost depends on the chanel and show. Im sensisitve to red-push so please try your own values)

Color Tone = Standard
Digital Noise Filter = OFF (some guys have found turning this ON may help with some aryifacts and banding. I havent had any banding issues)
Auto Motion = Clear

 

I would be interested to see what happens with some tweaking under the PC settings.

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post #189 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 06:26 PM
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Is this for the "hdmi/dvi" port or just the "hdmi" port?
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post #190 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 06:34 PM
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When I changed source from Cable STB to PC it made no difference at all. It did not reset my settings either. "HDMI" port for me.

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post #191 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 06:38 PM
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Nothing here either. All it did was add a label to the hdmi input.

Can you post the steps you took?
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post #192 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 06:43 PM
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I suspect hes using HDMI/DVI. I had it hooked up that way briefly when I first got it and it did seem like changing the source name did do something when scrolling through them. But I didnt investigate. I dont like using HDMI/DVI. It usually has different parameters than standard HDMI. In this case though that may be a good thing.

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post #193 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 06:46 PM
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Mines on hdmi/dvi and it didnt do anything to add "pc" to it. Is there an advantage to use the standard hdmi over hdmi/dvi?

Edit: nm I just saw why.
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post #194 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreko44 View Post

So there is something to the whole "If you rename the hdmi port to pc. Few small tweaks the picture it's awesome".

I went into the source menu, hit tools, then changed HDMI to PC and all the settings reset...BUT i see a much clearer picture somehow!?

I think people should start messing with this.

 
So far, after many many many trial and error sessions my best settings were posted by s2mikey:
Mode = Standard

Backlight = 8

Contrast = 96

Brightness = 44 (this is a good balance between *some* dark scene detail and fairly deep blacks)

Sharpness = 5

Color = 46

Tint = G52/R48
Color Space = Native

Gamma = +2 (This helps tease out a tad more detail in dark scenes which I feel this set lacks. It does brighten things up too which isnt always desireable. Try out other values)
Dyn Contrast = OFF

Black Tone = Darkest

Fleshtone = -7 (Ive been messing with this a lot. It almost depends on the chanel and show. Im sensisitve to red-push so please try your own values)
Color Tone = Standard

Digital Noise Filter = OFF (some guys have found turning this ON may help with some aryifacts and banding. I havent had any banding issues)

Auto Motion = Clear

I would be interested to see what happens with some tweaking under the PC settings.

Yep it's like a new tv when u rename it to pc

Pioneer Elite 111FD and Onkyo 6100B 7.1
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post #195 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 11:35 PM
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What is odd is when setting it to PC like mentioned it greys out (locks me out) of a lot of settings like Tint for example. Does this happen to you guys and are you running a PC as your source like I am? Thanks.

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post #196 of 488 Old 12-08-2013, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreko44 View Post
 

So there is something to the whole "If you rename the hdmi port to pc. Few small tweaks the picture it's awesome".
I went into the source menu, hit tools, then changed HDMI to PC and all the settings reset...BUT i see a much clearer picture somehow!?
I think people should start messing with this.
 

So far, after many many many trial and error sessions my best settings were posted by s2mikey:

Mode = Standard
Backlight = 8
Contrast = 96
Brightness = 44 (this is a good balance between *some* dark scene detail and fairly deep blacks)
Sharpness = 5
Color = 46
Tint = G52/R48

Color Space = Native
Gamma = +2 (This helps tease out a tad more detail in dark scenes which I feel this set lacks. It does brighten things up too which isnt always desireable. Try out other values)

Dyn Contrast = OFF
Black Tone = Darkest
Fleshtone = -7 (Ive been messing with this a lot. It almost depends on the chanel and show. Im sensisitve to red-push so please try your own values)

Color Tone = Standard
Digital Noise Filter = OFF (some guys have found turning this ON may help with some aryifacts and banding. I havent had any banding issues)
Auto Motion = Clear

 

I would be interested to see what happens with some tweaking under the PC settings.


I'm trying these settings now.  I had an 08' LG plasma.  It was a 60".  I figured even knowing this was a budget set, that something 5 years newer would have to be better.  I have been highly disappointed.  Especially when playing Dead Rising 3.  The world blurs so bad when I turn the camera.  Game mode does not help.  Anyone have any advice?  I'd love to keep this set, but thinking of returning and getting the PN64F5500.  Thanks for any advice.

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post #197 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 12:11 AM
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Hey kingwormer. I've put in a few hours of fast paced gaming on this set and have experienced no motion blurring. Firstly, what "Version" do you have? It's on the back of the TV and the side of the box. I expect you have an MH01 or YH01/02.

I did not notice motion blurring with the settings you quoted, but most of my time was spent with something close to the following settings:

First relabel input to PC under Source in the Samsung menu
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 40
Sharpness: 50 (this needs to be very low when the input is not labelled as PC)

White Balance: Untouched
Gamma: -2
Color Tone: Standard
HDMI Black Level: Low (this may need to be Normal depending on your input)

With these settings almost everything is disabled as Supacatsf noted above. This works for me as I turn everything off anyway. I can't be sure but it appears that the TV is in Auto Motion: Clear mode when set to PC input.
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post #198 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxsfan View Post

Hey kingwormer. I've put in a few hours of fast paced gaming on this set and have experienced no motion blurring. Firstly, what "Version" do you have? It's on the back of the TV and the side of the box. I expect you have an MH01 or YH01/02.

 

  

   I do have MH01 according to the side of the box.  Is this bad?  I have been playing and watching TV on the HDMI/DVI input.  I changed it to PC label after reading a few posts back to do that.  Didn't really notice anything happen though.  HDMI black level is greyed out also.  Can't change it.  I changed the other settings you said, over what I already was running.  As I have been listening to you all, and changing things...the picture is slowly getting better.  Still something just doesn't seem "right"  I cant quite place my finger on it.  And in Dead Rising 3 the blur is when I'm watching the background.  Looks like an old LCD where the response was to slow.

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post #199 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 05:02 AM
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Im curious as to why changing the source name would work for some and not do a thing for others. Its about a 50/50 mix.

Can someone who it actually did something for post exactly what steps they took?
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post #200 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingzfan61 View Post

Im curious as to why changing the source name would work for some and not do a thing for others. Its about a 50/50 mix.

Can someone who it actually did something for post exactly what steps they took?

Seems like it only works for the HDMI/DVI input.

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post #201 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 07:31 AM
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Thats what im using it on and it doesnt do anything to select pc.
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post #202 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingzfan61 View Post

Im curious as to why changing the source name would work for some and not do a thing for others. Its about a 50/50 mix.

Can someone who it actually did something for post exactly what steps they took?

While connected to the HDMI/DVI port:

Menu > Input > Edit Name > HDMI1/DVI > Right arrow > PC or DVI PC

 

All the other names seem to go into the other mode. You'd notice it because flipping between (for example) DVI PC and DVI is a night and day difference. Sharpness is the most notable difference. 8 sharpness for HDMI looks about the same as 48 sharpness in PC mode. This is on MH01. It should also be noted that all my content comes from an actual HTPC (AMD 5830 over hdmi).

 

I think I like the PC mode better especially for Football and OTA(also from my PC not the TV tuner). I just wish the 120Hz settings were available. Though it does look to my eye like Clear mode is on as previously mentioned which I liked best for most things anyways.

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post #203 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 07:42 AM
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Well now im completely confused because my hdmi goes from my htpc amd 7750 to my receiver to the hdmi/dvi port and when naming it to pci or dvi it literally doesnt change anything. Ill have to mess with it some more after work but either way I think Ive pulled about every bit of clarity and PQ as possible.
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post #204 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxsfan View Post

Hey kingwormer. I've put in a few hours of fast paced gaming on this set and have experienced no motion blurring. Firstly, what "Version" do you have? It's on the back of the TV and the side of the box. I expect you have an MH01 or YH01/02.

I did not notice motion blurring with the settings you quoted, but most of my time was spent with something close to the following settings:

First relabel input to PC under Source in the Samsung menu
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 40
Sharpness: 50 (this needs to be very low when the input is not labelled as PC)

White Balance: Untouched
Gamma: -2
Color Tone: Standard
HDMI Black Level: Low (this may need to be Normal depending on your input)

With these settings almost everything is disabled as Supacatsf noted above. This works for me as I turn everything off anyway. I can't be sure but it appears that the TV is in Auto Motion: Clear mode when set to PC input.


Strange, HDMI Black level is greyed out for me when the TV is set to PC.

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post #205 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingzfan61 View Post

Well now im completely confused because my hdmi goes from my htpc amd 7750 to my receiver to the hdmi/dvi port and when naming it to pci or dvi it literally doesnt change anything. Ill have to mess with it some more after work but either way I think Ive pulled about every bit of clarity and PQ as possible.


I wonder if it would change anything if you temporarily took the receiver out of the loop. Just out of curiosity.

 

Edit: Also, the TV mode is working on firmware T-M9RFAUSC-1009.0

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post #206 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bravebuc View Post


Strange, HDMI Black level is greyed out for me when the TV is set to PC.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingzfan61 View Post

Im curious as to why changing the source name would work for some and not do a thing for others. Its about a 50/50 mix.

Can someone who it actually did something for post exactly what steps they took?


bravebuc, wingzfan61 here's a copy and paste from the other thread (UNXXEH6000)
Quote:
Originally Posted by "nxsfan 
First you must re-label the HDMI input as PC or PC DVI - this changes the base behaviour of the panel.

Mode: Standard
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 40
Sharpness: 50 (this needs to be very low when the input is not labelled as PC)

White Balance: Untouched
Gamma: -2
Color Tone: Warm1
HDMI Black Level: Low (experiment with this as it depends on the source).






For clarification I'm driving the TV via my HTPC which has a GTX 460 (NVIDIA) connected to my Onkyo NR509 which is connected to the TV - so a similar setup to you guys. If you can't change "HDMI Black Level" it looks like we have found a real functional difference between the 65EH6000 and the 65FH6001. I have configured my card to send everything out in the 0-255 reference range.

It seems to me as if the TV automatically expects everything to be in the 0-255 range when the source is labelled "PC". On my TV leaving HDMI Black Level as normal clips everything below 16, so blacks are a little grayer than they need to be. I have checked and there is no crushing or loss of detail when using HDMI Black Level: Low, but blacks are a lot deeper. Why would you want to clip all blacks to 16, when the TV is displaying 0-255? It doesn't make any sense to me. I'm thinking that perhaps HDMI Black Level: Normal on your sets is equivalent to HDMI Black Level: Low on mine, and that they've grayed out the option as it doesn't make sense to clip to 16.

Wingzfan61, I found that when I drive the display at anything but 1080p60 it doesn't treat the input differently so you wouldn't see any change. A quick way to check you are in the "right" mode is to go to Menu->Picture->Mode and you should see a different set of modes: Standard and Entertain.
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post #207 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 10:45 AM
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Did anyone find a suitable model to use for Harmony remotes? I'm taking delivery of this tonight and looking forward to setting it up; hopefully it works well with my HTPC (Amd/ati gpu) and receiver.
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post #208 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 10:51 AM
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That may be the issue for me then. I was doing the change when on cable which sends a 1920x1080/60i signal to the tv. Ill have to try it while on htpc which I know sends a 1920x1080/60p signal.

My cable box has a setting to send 1080p to the tv but it always comes thru as interlaced (i).
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post #209 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by forumreader View Post

Did anyone find a suitable model to use for Harmony remotes? I'm taking delivery of this tonight and looking forward to setting it up; hopefully it works well with my HTPC (Amd/ati gpu) and receiver.

Good news! I have the Harmony Ultimate and it found model #UN65FH6001FXZA in their system so its already in their db and everything is working like it should remote wise:)

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post #210 of 488 Old 12-09-2013, 11:37 AM
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I wonder if it would change anything if you temporarily took the receiver out of the loop. Just out of curiosity.

Edit: Also, the TV mode is working on firmware T-M9RFAUSC-1009.0
FWIW my firmware is 1010.1. Panel MH01.
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