2014 Sharp AQUOS Line-Up - Page 115 - AVS Forum
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post #3421 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I did a thorough check of the calibrations and the scale is very smooth, even with my
modifications. It's still quite yellow, but uniformly so, and the color scales are within
bounds with just the tiniest tweaks to Saturation (Green -2, Blue -1).
I plan to spend more time with this before posting Movie settings for the UQ model.
The smooth gray scale is the best I've seen, which is the foundational element to all else.
I do see some runaway yellow/green in extreme highlights and I wonder if it is the
result of the Expanded Gamut color setting. My 2 year old set had that problem much worse.
Meantime, my USER setting is the one I recommend and the Active Contrast is now ON.
It seems to crush the fleshtones a bit, so I need to address that. In terms of uniformity
from one scene to the next, it is big improvement, so I do recommend it...
Johnfull...I have plugged in all of your updated settings, including the recent DYNAMIC mode. It is actually now a potential useable mode. It would probably be amazing on a PIXAR animated film. I also adjusted my MOVIE mode with Rob's latest settings. I later made your tweaks to all the blue settings. It did make a huge difference on my 80" UQ. I am curious about your choice to enable Sharpness to a 10 setting on most of your calibrations. . I have read much debate that it is best to leave this feature at 0, seeing as many believe the processing can actually degrade the pic source. What are your thoughts and reasoning on using it in most of your settings? Just curios. Again, thanks for all your hard work in tweaking these sets and sharing your results.
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post #3422 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 02:30 PM
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This set is pissing me off a little bit. Last night I was watching some stuff and felt the excess in yellowing of skin shadows and spots on faces was back. Earlier I had changed to a different picture mode to compare older settings and I thought maybe the TV just sort of loses your values a bit if you switch to a different mode and then back.

This morning I decided to fire up the equipment again to check and the readings were different than yesterday although not a significant amount as in the readings were all coming in with an under 3 dE so according to the theory, any changes shouldn't be visible.

I decided to touch up things again as it wouldn't require much time to do. I changed picture mode as well as the TV input and went back to see if there was any drift and there wasn't so my theory of last night wasn't correct. I also took readings at a different spot of the screen to see if there was any major uniformity issue (staring at a white screen had me wondering as I thought I saw some spots) and the readings were basically the same so that was a positive.

I also screwed around with the CMS a bit more no real changes.

I loaded up content and things looked fine and seemed better as in they look like how they did yesterday when I posted my settings here. I should say that what I am talking about here isn't some night and day difference as in a face looks like it is a lemon in spots and then magically looks fine. It's minor, not consistent, and it's just that I can be looking at something on screen at times and think something just seems off as I do not notice this on any display I have at my own home. It's possible this is all in my head or seems off because I'm not used to the "LED" look so to speak. I'd have to see another LED set to see if that is the case. I'm still leaning towards it being something up with Sharp and it's possible it is a result of colours at different saturation/luminance levels being off more than they should be yet I'd need a Lumagen Radiance to know for sure and to correct that.

I loaded up GTA Online and wanted to play in movie mode and noticed some weird motion smoothing at times like the soap opera effect even though I have no processing on.

Tried game mode and it went away.

Got sick of game mode's oversaturated colours so I went back to movie mode and saw the SOE again making me think it is built into the picture mode even when you have none of the processing selected. Great job Sharp yet fitting given the quirks I have seen with this set.

I messed around with the film mode setting and I think it may have been severely lessened with setting advance to 1. Having it on standard didn't fix this and having film mode off didn't fix it (which logically it should not be there with film mode set to off) yet with advanced on +1 it seemed to be less noticeable which is funny to me since advanced is what causes SOE.

No idea if this is just this set being weird or if it is across the entire line. I'd have to see other SQs (and maybe UQs) to see if I notice the same thing. I could see many not seeing what I am talking about as I am very sensitive to SOE/motion smoothing. I have also noticed this before with cable at times so I shall see if having advanced at 1 also helps with that.

Right now I am watching an episode of Star Trek original series on blu-ray and skin tones look great, no weird yellowing showing up at times and I have nothing to currently complain about.

Never in my life have I had to wrestle with a display this much and I am thankful I didn't buy one of these sets early on after I started to play with this one as this type of crap is ridiculous to me. On my Samsung D630 LCD at home in my bedroom I turn it on and the damn image looks like how it did the last time I turned it on and I can slap the meter on it to confirm this and everything looks fine with it along with every other display I own or have calibrated. No idea what is going on here. It wouldn't be as annoying if the image was knock your socks off great but it isn't anything amazing. Sure it has a pleasing image but black level is worse than my 3-4 year old D630 and while the SQ is sharper and has a slightly richer overall look and higher ansi CR, it isn't leagues better to justify dealing with this wonky jazz and I doubt this is superior to any of its current competition. I don't have experience with any other LED based LCDs so maybe this is just how it is although I doubt it and this is a Sharp issue.

My next set will probably be the new 55" OLED coming out but if not, it'll probably then be the 55" Sony X900B or the 58" Panny AX800. If one of those two LED sets, I'll be able to see if they have this type of weirdness. I am going to go out on the limb and say they won't.

It may sound like I am some hardcore videophile who demands perfection but I am really not one and I do not expect perfection. I also don't like to tinker with my displays and one of the reasons I have equipment is to not waste my time tinkering for hours just to get a decent image since in theory you should be able to dial a display in and be done with it as everything on screen will look "correct" so to speak. This one has not been like that.

So with my bitching done, here are my latest settings which should produce the same image as before unless there is the weird drift issue I have noticed. There is a big difference in the tint setting because I messed around with the CMS in a different way so those values will be different as well. Readings came out basically the same so the on screen colours should be a wash, at least at the saturation level I was doing my readings at. Possible this change will affect them at different saturation levels and could be better/worse.

Also, keep in mind these are for the SQ. The UQ isn't as blue out of the box (if Mechman and CNET's UQs are the norm) so these values will make the image too red or yellow without any changes.

Movie mode

Backlight 0
Contrast +26
Brightness 0
Colour -2
Tint +4
Sharpness 0

Res enhance mode 1

CMS Hue

R -12
Y +3
G -21
C +4
B -19
M -5

CMS Saturation

R -8
Y 0
G +8
C +4
B +6
M +2

Color Temp (in RGB order)

Pt 1: +30, +30, -18
Pt 2: +16, +26, -8
Pt 3: +11, +21, -19
Pt 4: +10, +17, -21
Pt 5: +6, +15, -21
Pt 6: +2, +11, -26
Pt 7: 0, +10, -30
Pt 8: -4, +9, -30
Pt 9: -8, +7, -30
Pt 10: -10, 0, -30

Gamma -2
Film Mode advanced +1


Regarding the sharpness setting as brought up in an above post, this should be at 0 since anything above adds edge enhancement/ringing. If someone wants their image to look sharper on stuff like facial detail then they should buy a darblet which is fantastic with this TV. Anyone who wants their image to look better should get a darblet. Well worth the 300 bucks.
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ROB

Last edited by rlindo; 06-28-2014 at 03:02 PM.
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post #3423 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Johnfull...I have plugged in all of your updated settings, including the recent DYNAMIC mode. It is actually now a potential useable mode. It would probably be amazing on a PIXAR animated film. I also adjusted my MOVIE mode with Rob's latest settings. I later made your tweaks to all the blue settings. It did make a huge difference on my 80" UQ. I am curious about your choice to enable Sharpness to a 10 setting on most of your calibrations. . I have read much debate that it is best to leave this feature at 0, seeing as many believe the processing can actually degrade the pic source. What are your thoughts and reasoning on using it in most of your settings? Just curios. Again, thanks for all your hard work in tweaking these sets and sharing your results.

The Sharpness control is factory set at the center 10 postion, so I left it alone.
I haven't seen ringing artifacts, but if you do, adjust to your own inputs and taste.
Glad to know that the Movie fixes help convert SQ to UQ standards.
The Dynamic could use more color -- just crank up the Color control within keeping the
faces from going radioactive. It seems to have a robust fleshtone correction that allows some
extra color pop without ruining faces. Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep tinkering!
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post #3424 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlindo View Post
This set is pissing me off a little bit. Last night I was watching some stuff and felt the excess in yellowing of skin shadows and spots on faces was back. Earlier I had changed to a different picture mode to compare older settings and I thought maybe the TV just sort of loses your values a bit if you switch to a different mode and then back.

This morning I decided to fire up the equipment again to check and the readings were different than yesterday although not a significant amount as in the readings were all coming in with an under 3 dE so according to the theory, any changes shouldn't be visible.

I decided to touch up things again as it wouldn't require much time to do. I changed picture mode as well as the TV input and went back to see if there was any drift and there wasn't so my theory of last night wasn't correct. I also took readings at a different spot of the screen to see if there was any major uniformity issue (staring at a white screen had me wondering as I thought I saw some spots) and the readings were basically the same so that was a positive.

I also screwed around with the CMS a bit more no real changes.

I loaded up content and things looked fine and seemed better as in they look like how they did yesterday when I posted my settings here. I should say that what I am talking about here isn't some night and day difference as in a face looks like it is a lemon in spots and then magically looks fine. It's minor, not consistent, and it's just that I can be looking at something on screen at times and think something just seems off as I do not notice this on any display I have at my own home. It's possible this is all in my head or seems off because I'm not used to the "LED" look so to speak. I'd have to see another LED set to see if that is the case. I'm still leaning towards it being something up with Sharp and it's possible it is a result of colours at different saturation/luminance levels being off more than they should be yet I'd need a Lumagen Radiance to know for sure and to correct that.

I loaded up GTA Online and wanted to play in movie mode and noticed some weird motion smoothing at times like the soap opera effect even though I have no processing on.

Tried game mode and it went away.

Got sick of game mode's oversaturated colours so I went back to movie mode and saw the SOE again making me think it is built into the picture mode even when you have none of the processing selected. Great job Sharp yet fitting given the quirks I have seen with this set.

I messed around with the film mode setting and I think it may have been severely lessened with setting advance to 1. Having it on standard didn't fix this and having film mode off didn't fix it (which logically it should not be there with film mode set to off) yet with advanced on +1 it seemed to be less noticeable which is funny to me since advanced is what causes SOE.

No idea if this is just this set being weird or if it is across the entire line. I'd have to see other SQs (and maybe UQs) to see if I notice the same thing. I could see many not seeing what I am talking about as I am very sensitive to SOE/motion smoothing. I have also noticed this before with cable at times so I shall see if having advanced at 1 also helps with that.

Right now I am watching an episode of Star Trek original series on blu-ray and skin tones look great, no weird yellowing showing up at times and I have nothing to currently complain about.

Never in my life have I had to wrestle with a display this much and I am thankful I didn't buy one of these sets early on after I started to play with this one as this type of crap is ridiculous to me. On my Samsung D630 LCD at home in my bedroom I turn it on and the damn image looks like how it did the last time I turned it on and I can slap the meter on it to confirm this and everything looks fine with it along with every other display I own or have calibrated. No idea what is going on here. It wouldn't be as annoying if the image was knock your socks off great but it isn't anything amazing. Sure it has a pleasing image but black level is worse than my 3-4 year old D630 and while the SQ is sharper and has a slightly richer overall look and higher ansi CR, it isn't leagues better to justify dealing with this wonky jazz and I doubt this is superior to any of its current competition. I don't have experience with any other LED based LCDs so maybe this is just how it is although I doubt it and this is a Sharp issue.

My next set will probably be the new 55" OLED coming out but if not, it'll probably then be the 55" Sony X900B or the 58" Panny AX800. If one of those two LED sets, I'll be able to see if they have this type of weirdness. I am going to go out on the limb and say they won't.

It may sound like I am some hardcore videophile who demands perfection but I am really not one and I do not expect perfection. I also don't like to tinker with my displays and one of the reasons I have equipment is to not waste my time tinkering for hours just to get a decent image since in theory you should be able to dial a display in and be done with it as everything on screen will look "correct" so to speak. This one has not been like that.

So with my bitching done, here are my latest settings which should produce the same image as before unless there is the weird drift issue I have noticed. There is a big difference in the tint setting because I messed around with the CMS in a different way so those values will be different as well. Readings came out basically the same so the on screen colours should be a wash, at least at the saturation level I was doing my readings at. Possible this change will affect them at different saturation levels and could be better/worse.

Also, keep in mind these are for the SQ. The UQ isn't as blue out of the box (if Mechman and CNET's UQs are the norm) so these values will make the image too red or yellow without any changes.

Movie mode

Backlight 0
Contrast +26
Brightness 0
Colour -2
Tint +4
Sharpness 0

Res enhance mode 1

CMS Hue

R -12
Y +3
G -21
C +4
B -19
M -5

CMS Saturation

R -8
Y 0
G +8
C +4
B +6
M +2

Color Temp (in RGB order)

Pt 1: +30, +30, -18
Pt 2: +16, +26, -8
Pt 3: +11, +21, -19
Pt 4: +10, +17, -21
Pt 5: +6, +15, -21
Pt 6: +2, +11, -26
Pt 7: 0, +10, -30
Pt 8: -4, +9, -30
Pt 9: -8, +7, -30
Pt 10: -10, 0, -30

Gamma -2
Film Mode advanced +1


Regarding the sharpness setting as brought up in an above post, this should be at 0 since anything above adds edge enhancement/ringing. If someone wants their image to look sharper on stuff like facial detail then they should buy a darblet which is fantastic with this TV. Anyone who wants their image to look better should get a darblet. Well worth the 300 bucks.

Thanks again for smoothing out the kinks on the Movie setting.
Just adding blue for the UQ sets makes it a pleasant viewing experience.
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post #3425 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 04:02 PM
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I have an issue where the picture on my tv extends past my TV. See picture, both sides seem cut off
I've checked the TV settings, dish network settings, and my Denon x-2000 settings and couldn't find what could be the cause.
Anyone else have issues with this or have an idea what it could be? TV setting is dot by dot.



Thanks
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post #3426 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
The Sharpness control is factory set at the center 10 postion, so I left it alone.
I haven't seen ringing artifacts, but if you do, adjust to your own inputs and taste.
Glad to know that the Movie fixes help convert SQ to UQ standards.
The Dynamic could use more color -- just crank up the Color control within keeping the
faces from going radioactive. It seems to have a robust fleshtone correction that allows some
extra color pop without ruining faces. Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep tinkering!
Johnfull...are you now using Active Contrast in your USER setting? So far, I think this is my favorite setting. It is crazy how washes out and dull the pic is when you compare your USER setting to Movie THX. It is horrid. It is a shame that some people that buy this set will use that setting as the "go to" setting because they don't know the full potential of calibrating this set. I'm so thankful to AVS forum and it's members.
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post #3427 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlindo View Post
This set is pissing me off a little bit. Last night I was watching some stuff and felt the excess in yellowing of skin shadows and spots on faces was back. Earlier I had changed to a different picture mode to compare older settings and I thought maybe the TV just sort of loses your values a bit if you switch to a different mode and then back.

This morning I decided to fire up the equipment again to check and the readings were different than yesterday although not a significant amount as in the readings were all coming in with an under 3 dE so according to the theory, any changes shouldn't be visible.

I decided to touch up things again as it wouldn't require much time to do. I changed picture mode as well as the TV input and went back to see if there was any drift and there wasn't so my theory of last night wasn't correct. I also took readings at a different spot of the screen to see if there was any major uniformity issue (staring at a white screen had me wondering as I thought I saw some spots) and the readings were basically the same so that was a positive.

I also screwed around with the CMS a bit more no real changes.

I loaded up content and things looked fine and seemed better as in they look like how they did yesterday when I posted my settings here. I should say that what I am talking about here isn't some night and day difference as in a face looks like it is a lemon in spots and then magically looks fine. It's minor, not consistent, and it's just that I can be looking at something on screen at times and think something just seems off as I do not notice this on any display I have at my own home. It's possible this is all in my head or seems off because I'm not used to the "LED" look so to speak. I'd have to see another LED set to see if that is the case. I'm still leaning towards it being something up with Sharp and it's possible it is a result of colours at different saturation/luminance levels being off more than they should be yet I'd need a Lumagen Radiance to know for sure and to correct that.

I loaded up GTA Online and wanted to play in movie mode and noticed some weird motion smoothing at times like the soap opera effect even though I have no processing on.

Tried game mode and it went away.

Got sick of game mode's oversaturated colours so I went back to movie mode and saw the SOE again making me think it is built into the picture mode even when you have none of the processing selected. Great job Sharp yet fitting given the quirks I have seen with this set.

I messed around with the film mode setting and I think it may have been severely lessened with setting advance to 1. Having it on standard didn't fix this and having film mode off didn't fix it (which logically it should not be there with film mode set to off) yet with advanced on +1 it seemed to be less noticeable which is funny to me since advanced is what causes SOE.

No idea if this is just this set being weird or if it is across the entire line. I'd have to see other SQs (and maybe UQs) to see if I notice the same thing. I could see many not seeing what I am talking about as I am very sensitive to SOE/motion smoothing. I have also noticed this before with cable at times so I shall see if having advanced at 1 also helps with that.

Right now I am watching an episode of Star Trek original series on blu-ray and skin tones look great, no weird yellowing showing up at times and I have nothing to currently complain about.

Never in my life have I had to wrestle with a display this much and I am thankful I didn't buy one of these sets early on after I started to play with this one as this type of crap is ridiculous to me. On my Samsung D630 LCD at home in my bedroom I turn it on and the damn image looks like how it did the last time I turned it on and I can slap the meter on it to confirm this and everything looks fine with it along with every other display I own or have calibrated. No idea what is going on here. It wouldn't be as annoying if the image was knock your socks off great but it isn't anything amazing. Sure it has a pleasing image but black level is worse than my 3-4 year old D630 and while the SQ is sharper and has a slightly richer overall look and higher ansi CR, it isn't leagues better to justify dealing with this wonky jazz and I doubt this is superior to any of its current competition. I don't have experience with any other LED based LCDs so maybe this is just how it is although I doubt it and this is a Sharp issue.

My next set will probably be the new 55" OLED coming out but if not, it'll probably then be the 55" Sony X900B or the 58" Panny AX800. If one of those two LED sets, I'll be able to see if they have this type of weirdness. I am going to go out on the limb and say they won't.

It may sound like I am some hardcore videophile who demands perfection but I am really not one and I do not expect perfection. I also don't like to tinker with my displays and one of the reasons I have equipment is to not waste my time tinkering for hours just to get a decent image since in theory you should be able to dial a display in and be done with it as everything on screen will look "correct" so to speak. This one has not been like that.

So with my bitching done, here are my latest settings which should produce the same image as before unless there is the weird drift issue I have noticed. There is a big difference in the tint setting because I messed around with the CMS in a different way so those values will be different as well. Readings came out basically the same so the on screen colours should be a wash, at least at the saturation level I was doing my readings at. Possible this change will affect them at different saturation levels and could be better/worse.

Also, keep in mind these are for the SQ. The UQ isn't as blue out of the box (if Mechman and CNET's UQs are the norm) so these values will make the image too red or yellow without any changes.

Movie mode

Backlight 0
Contrast +26
Brightness 0
Colour -2
Tint +4
Sharpness 0

Res enhance mode 1

CMS Hue

R -12
Y +3
G -21
C +4
B -19
M -5

CMS Saturation

R -8
Y 0
G +8
C +4
B +6
M +2

Color Temp (in RGB order)

Pt 1: +30, +30, -18
Pt 2: +16, +26, -8
Pt 3: +11, +21, -19
Pt 4: +10, +17, -21
Pt 5: +6, +15, -21
Pt 6: +2, +11, -26
Pt 7: 0, +10, -30
Pt 8: -4, +9, -30
Pt 9: -8, +7, -30
Pt 10: -10, 0, -30

Gamma -2
Film Mode advanced +1


Regarding the sharpness setting as brought up in an above post, this should be at 0 since anything above adds edge enhancement/ringing. If someone wants their image to look sharper on stuff like facial detail then they should buy a darblet which is fantastic with this TV. Anyone who wants their image to look better should get a darblet. Well worth the 300 bucks.
not sure whats going on but yes your settings did look yellow. I changed some and went back to what I did myself. best pic I have ever seen on a tv. 4k videos look amazing and br thru my sony that upsales to 2160 the picture is fantastic. but some regular tv looks like crap but hey its a lcd tv/ in fact the bad pq looks far superior to what I put up with my plasma.. definitely blows away any other tv in the price range I paid
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post #3428 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 05:52 PM
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Could someone point me to a good set of post calibration settings for a LC-60SQ15U? Looking thru the thread i see some but with multiple models being discussed i can't tell which ones i need.

Thanks
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post #3429 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Johnfull...are you now using Active Contrast in your USER setting? So far, I think this is my favorite setting. It is crazy how washes out and dull the pic is when you compare your USER setting to Movie THX. It is horrid. It is a shame that some people that buy this set will use that setting as the "go to" setting because they don't know the full potential of calibrating this set. I'm so thankful to AVS forum and it's members.

Beats me why they don't put a little effort into getting it better out of the box.
Thanks for your encouragement. I'll tinker and improve as I get the time and patience.
I can set up the THX -- I actually had a beautiful one set up and then wiped it with a reset because
I was mad that I couldn't use the automatic light sensor with it. It has great potential for everything
but the inky black of the backlight modulating for low-light. That was a deal-breaker, but I'll
reconsider...
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post #3430 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 06:06 PM
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Could someone point me to a good set of post calibration settings for a LC-60SQ15U? Looking thru the thread i see some but with multiple models being discussed i can't tell which ones i need.

Thanks

You can try Rlindo's Movie, or Mechman's movie or my User or my Standard or Dynamic.
All of them look better than out of the box and you can tinker and you can always hit the reset.
I prefer the User setting and several SQ users have liked it even though I set it up on a UQ.
You have choices!
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post #3431 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdogdan2 View Post
I have an issue where the picture on my tv extends past my TV. See picture, both sides seem cut off
I've checked the TV settings, dish network settings, and my Denon x-2000 settings and couldn't find what could be the cause.
Anyone else have issues with this or have an idea what it could be? TV setting is dot by dot.



Thanks
You probably have it set to some form of zoom mode. On your remote, click the "view" button and change it to the dot by dot setting. That should fix the issue.

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post #3432 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
You can try Rlindo's Movie, or Mechman's movie or my User or my Standard or Dynamic.
All of them look better than out of the box and you can tinker and you can always hit the reset.
I prefer the User setting and several SQ users have liked it even though I set it up on a UQ.
You have choices!
Thanks for your reply. Where might I find your settings?

Thanks
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post #3433 of 3752 Old 06-28-2014, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Pepper View Post
Thanks for your reply. Where might I find your settings?


Thanks
Hello im using Disney WOW: World of Wonder to make calibrations on my tv and made one calibration in dynamic and one in movie can someone tell me how they look and how to improvement. thanks in advance
Dinamic mode
automatic light sensor off
back light +14
contrast +31
brightness +3
color +4
tint +5
sharpness +10
advance
resolution enhanced mode 1
motion enhancement 120hz high
clear picture processing high
cms no changes
color temp high
active contrast advanced
gamma adj -2
film mode advanced
digital noise auto
monochrome off
light sensor adjustment change to max. +10 min. -16

Movie mode
Automatic light sensor. Off
Backlight +12
Contrast. +32
Brightness. +3
Color. +5
Tint. +6
Sharpness. +8
Advance
Resolution enhanced mode1
Motion enhancement. 120hz high
Cms not changes
Color temp. High
Active contrast advanced
Gamma adj. -2
Film mode off
Digital noise redu. Auto
Color gamut range expanded
Monochrome off
Light sensor adj. Not change.

Sorry about my English I speek Spanish.

Last edited by hidekelleco; 06-28-2014 at 07:55 PM.
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post #3434 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Pepper View Post
Thanks for your reply. Where might I find your settings?

Thanks
User Picture Quality Settings:

Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+3)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)

Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)

CMS -- all (0) except Yellow Hue (-15), Blue Hue (-15), Cyan Saturation (+15)

Color Temperature (LOW)

2-Point settings:

LO: R (0), G (+30), B (+26)
HI: R (-8), G (+24), B (+30)

Active Contrast (OFF)
Gamma (0)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)

Light Sensor:

Max (+16), Min (-11)
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post #3435 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidekelleco View Post
Hello im using Disney WOW: World of Wonder to make calibrations on my tv and made one calibration in dynamic and one in movie can someone tell me how they look and how to improvement. thanks in advance
Dinamic mode
automatic light sensor off
back light +14
contrast +31
brightness +3
color +4
tint +5
sharpness +10
advance
resolution enhanced mode 1
motion enhancement 120hz high
clear picture processing high
cms no changes
color temp high
active contrast advanced
gamma adj -2
film mode advanced
digital noise auto
monochrome off
light sensor adjustment change to max. +10 min. -16

Movie mode
Automatic light sensor. Off
Backlight +12
Contrast. +32
Brightness. +3
Color. +5
Tint. +6
Sharpness. +8
Advance
Resolution enhanced mode1
Motion enhancement. 120hz high
Cms not changes
Color temp. High
Active contrast advanced
Gamma adj. -2
Film mode off
Digital noise redu. Auto
Color gamut range expanded
Monochrome off
Light sensor adj. Not change.

Sorry about my English I speek Spanish.
Did you turn the light sensor back on when you adjusted maximum and minimum?
I discovered that the sensor turns off when you make backlight adjustments.
The one disables the other, depending on which you used last.
I agree that the Dynamic mode set to High Temperature requires little white scale adjustment.
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post #3436 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
The Sharpness control is factory set at the center 10 postion, so I left it alone.
I haven't seen ringing artifacts, but if you do, adjust to your own inputs and taste.
Glad to know that the Movie fixes help convert SQ to UQ standards.
The Dynamic could use more color -- just crank up the Color control within keeping the
faces from going radioactive. It seems to have a robust fleshtone correction that allows some
extra color pop without ruining faces. Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep tinkering!
On the sharpness control -- there is probably some difference between the 70" and the 80"
in terms of visible noise in the picture and the ringing 'halo' effect that the sharpness control
can have. I don't see the outline with the Sharpness set in the middle position usually -- the
exception is when a weatherman is standing in front of a green screen and their outline shows
more obviously with the higher setting. Rlindo is using a device that creates its own sharpness
much more sophisticatedly than the TV's own circuit -- Darblet, I believe it's called.
But these sets look good sharpened up on their own, too. Screen size and viewing distance and
visual acuity all play into the setting. Don't be afraid to customize settings to your own tastes!
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post #3437 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
User Picture Quality Settings:

Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+3)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)

Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)

CMS -- all (0) except Yellow Hue (-15), Blue Hue (-15), Cyan Saturation (+15)

Color Temperature (LOW)

2-Point settings:

LO: R (0), G (+30), B (+26)
HI: R (-8), G (+24), B (+30)

Active Contrast (OFF)
Gamma (0)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)

Light Sensor:

Max (+16), Min (-11)
USER setting is customizeable for each input.

I turned the Active Contrast on for Satellite/Cable, but left it off for BluRay
I turned the Minimum light sensor setting to -8 for BluRay but left it at -11 for Satellite
I turned Color to +5 for both
You should tailor the Sharpness control for each input...
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post #3438 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Did you turn the light sensor back on when you adjusted maximum and minimum?
I discovered that the sensor turns off when you make backlight adjustments.
The one disables the other, depending on which you used last.
I agree that the Dynamic mode set to High Temperature requires little white scale adjustment.
Thanks for reply.
The automatic light sensor still off but
In advance settings, light sensor adjustment, maximun and minimun are change to +10 AND -16
When make backlight adjustments if the light sensor is on its turn to off but
i left the light sensor off and play with light sensor adjustments and work fine.

Last edited by hidekelleco; 06-29-2014 at 06:44 AM.
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post #3439 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 07:23 AM
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Just wanted to make a comment regarding CMS settings...

While I think you can generally plug in anyone's calibrated greyscale (white balance) settings and get a far better image out of the box, CMS settings seem to have a wider range.

There are two other truly (as in using equipment) calibrated SQs that I know of with posted settings, Avmanic's and the one Reviewed.com tested, and both their CMS settings are noticeably off on this set.

Reviewed.com's settings come out looking comical as his set seemed to have a lot of error for the red primary so on this set red is insanely oversaturated, glows neon style and faces come out mega red.

With Av's settings (I have a preset mode here with all his settings on it), colours are oversaturated and there are some hue errors like with yellow coming out with too much red in it so it looks a bit orange.

My point is that it isn't a guarantee that another's CMS values will look good on your set and if they don't, it's best to try another and if still not looking "correct" it's probably better to just reset the CMS settings to 0 and go with things out of the box.

I'd also like to say that if you put someone's calibrated settings in and there are some clear colour issues, don't assume the person is crazy and what you see is what they see especially since they actually used equipment to get to those settings. Taking this set as an example, colours look FANTASTIC and super accurate yet they could easily look like piss on another person's set and if so, what they see isn't what I am seeing. It's too bad sharing CMS settings couldn't work better.

Another example of how different sets can be is with the contrast setting. On this set, I have it at +26 partly for greyscale reasons and partly because I simply can't go much higher without killing highlight detail. At +30 it crushes highlight detail (area just below 235 video level for white) while between +26 and that +30 the amount of above white decreases so at best I could have this at +29 if I didn't want to be crushing detail just below white. Others who have calibrated I would think aren't crushing their highlight details yet they can get +30 so that shows there can be a decent difference there.

Right now I am playing GTA Online and this image looks very good. Nice colour and maybe it is placebo but I swear there is slightly more image depth than before. If that is the case, I don't know if that is because I have the tighter greyscale/gamma by using the 10 point or if it is because my colours are better. Some may have been a bit oversaturated before which can decrease perceived image depth and ruin colour detail. Or, some were undersaturated before and now being better saturated are adding to the depth.

http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.ph...&id=1328263571

That is a good link for anyone who wants to see how having things "wrong" can make the image look although their monitors need to be accurate to truly appreciate the difference. The colour temp too high comparison is a good example of how screwed up a high colour temp makes an image look.

The comparison under concluding remarks is basically how these sets look out of the box although they're still more blue than that on the low temp setting. Hideous and the people at Sharp should be beaten with a wet noodle for it.
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post #3440 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 08:40 AM
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First of all john and rlindo thank you for your work on calibrating. I am a complete idiot when it comes to this stuff. I have just purchased a sharp LC-60SQ15U. I am experimenting with the picture settings and need some guidance.

I have added rlindos latest movie settings with the 10 point color corrections and johns user settings he posted. Both are worlds better than what I could come up with. Color correction is spot on to my eye and the blacks are best I've seen in a LED with these settings. The problem is the picture just looks to dark to me or maybe the word is dim. I guess i just prefer a lighter picture. To both of you: is there a way to brighten the picture a bit without destroying the quality of it. If so what would one adjust?

And John, I have searched but can't find your settings for the other picture modes you mentioned in your previous post to me. If you could help me out there i would appreciate it.

Thanks again
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post #3441 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Pepper View Post
First of all john and rlindo thank you for your work on calibrating. I am a complete idiot when it comes to this stuff. I have just purchased a sharp LC-60SQ15U. I am experimenting with the picture settings and need some guidance.

I have added rlindos latest movie settings with the 10 point color corrections and johns user settings he posted. Both are worlds better than what I could come up with. Color correction is spot on to my eye and the blacks are best I've seen in a LED with these settings. The problem is the picture just looks to dark to me or maybe the word is dim. I guess i just prefer a lighter picture. To both of you: is there a way to brighten the picture a bit without destroying the quality of it. If so what would one adjust?

And John, I have searched but can't find your settings for the other picture modes you mentioned in your previous post to me. If you could help me out there i would appreciate it.

Thanks again
You can increase the Minimum setting on the Light Sensor to a level you find desirable
or you can increase the Backlight to any suitable level, but it won't vary with room conditions.
As best as I can tell, the backlight control is shut off as soon as you turn on the automatic sensor.
In other words, my -16 might as well be +16 for all the change it makes to the automatic sensor
control of picture brightness. I would recommend turning up the light sensor and leaving it on
rather than resorting to a fixed backlight position. The reason for this is the dark scenes will
wash out with too much light bleed if you don't use the light sensor. I think. I admit that I have
not toyed with the settings too much, but that seems to be the way it works -- one or the other.
My other settings are found on this thread:

Sharp UQ17U Calibrations

The one at the beginning was a preliminary first try at the Standard setting -- very bright, but
a tad green. There is a better New Standard and a Dynamic further on in the thread, plus the
User setting you already found here. I will post others and refinements to these as I make them
and post them on that thread. Thanks for your encouragement!
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post #3442 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlindo View Post
Just wanted to make a comment regarding CMS settings...

While I think you can generally plug in anyone's calibrated greyscale (white balance) settings and get a far better image out of the box, CMS settings seem to have a wider range.

There are two other truly (as in using equipment) calibrated SQs that I know of with posted settings, Avmanic's and the one Reviewed.com tested, and both their CMS settings are noticeably off on this set.

Reviewed.com's settings come out looking comical as his set seemed to have a lot of error for the red primary so on this set red is insanely oversaturated, glows neon style and faces come out mega red.

With Av's settings (I have a preset mode here with all his settings on it), colours are oversaturated and there are some hue errors like with yellow coming out with too much red in it so it looks a bit orange.

My point is that it isn't a guarantee that another's CMS values will look good on your set and if they don't, it's best to try another and if still not looking "correct" it's probably better to just reset the CMS settings to 0 and go with things out of the box.

I'd also like to say that if you put someone's calibrated settings in and there are some clear colour issues, don't assume the person is crazy and what you see is what they see especially since they actually used equipment to get to those settings. Taking this set as an example, colours look FANTASTIC and super accurate yet they could easily look like piss on another person's set and if so, what they see isn't what I am seeing. It's too bad sharing CMS settings couldn't work better.

Another example of how different sets can be is with the contrast setting. On this set, I have it at +26 partly for greyscale reasons and partly because I simply can't go much higher without killing highlight detail. At +30 it crushes highlight detail (area just below 235 video level for white) while between +26 and that +30 the amount of above white decreases so at best I could have this at +29 if I didn't want to be crushing detail just below white. Others who have calibrated I would think aren't crushing their highlight details yet they can get +30 so that shows there can be a decent difference there.

Right now I am playing GTA Online and this image looks very good. Nice colour and maybe it is placebo but I swear there is slightly more image depth than before. If that is the case, I don't know if that is because I have the tighter greyscale/gamma by using the 10 point or if it is because my colours are better. Some may have been a bit oversaturated before which can decrease perceived image depth and ruin colour detail. Or, some were undersaturated before and now being better saturated are adding to the depth.

http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.ph...&id=1328263571

That is a good link for anyone who wants to see how having things "wrong" can make the image look although their monitors need to be accurate to truly appreciate the difference. The colour temp too high comparison is a good example of how screwed up a high colour temp makes an image look.

The comparison under concluding remarks is basically how these sets look out of the box although they're still more blue than that on the low temp setting. Hideous and the people at Sharp should be beaten with a wet noodle for it.
Thanks for that link -- I have always liked the look of too much sharpness till I got this UQ.
The smoothness of edges no longer seems wrong and the noise in the satellite feed makes
added sharpness values more pronounced. The poor gray scale tracking is what drives me
most bonkers, particularly on a black and white source. It has to be the first thing fixed.
Color temperature is done in conjunction, but can be warmed or cooled evenly as I did with
your movie settings to good effect. It is very difficult to approximate evenly applied gray scale
gain with the naked eye. I wish you would align the values on my other settings without
changing the underlying temperature -- I try to leave one of the three values as I found it and
pivot the other two as needed. That prevents global drift away from the proper gamut.
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post #3443 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 12:54 PM
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Looking into another set. Is there that much a difference between the eq and sq with viewing blue ray movies and general 1080p movies to justify the price? Thanks.
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post #3444 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 01:26 PM
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I had the 70" EQ and returned it for the SQ.. The SQ has a much crisper picture with noticeably greater depth...
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post #3445 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mllerena View Post
Looking into another set. Is there that much a difference between the eq and sq with viewing blue ray movies and general 1080p movies to justify the price? Thanks.
The EQ doesn't use the Q+ split pixels to enhance the resolution (I think).
It seems to be a Q set without the +. Honestly, I have to be within 3 feet of
my 70 UQ to see the effect of the enhancement. The SQ has a nicer cabinet
than the EQ (I think), which is like the UQ instead of like the lower HD models.
I'm not sure what the Q without the + actually means.
I would defer to the advice of Blue Comet and get the better model...
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post #3446 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 02:22 PM
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Ok. Thanks. It was between the eq for $800, or a Samsung 60f5300 plasma for $450.
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post #3447 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 02:30 PM
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Wow, that is a big difference! Have you had plasma? LCD works better in bright rooms.
The plasma gets a good rating, though, so it's more about what you want a set to do.
Any specifics you are looking for? You might want to post in another part of the forum
where LCDs are compared to plasms sets. Both have their strong points.
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post #3448 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 02:42 PM
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I am aware of the difference between the plasma at led. I have a samsung plasma for years with no complaints. I have these 2 to choose from. I don't want to bring home the sharp and be disappointed. Picture at home always looks different than in stores.
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post #3449 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mllerena View Post
I am aware of the difference between the plasma at led. I have a samsung plasma for years with no complaints. I have these 2 to choose from. I don't want to bring home the sharp and be disappointed. Picture at home always looks different than in stores.
LCDs are now a lot brighter than plasma.
That's the only clear advantage, other than energy savings.
Disatvantages for LCD are off-angle viewing and color palette and blacks.
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post #3450 of 3752 Old 06-29-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
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LCDs are now a lot brighter than plasma.
That's the only clear advantage, other than energy savings.
Disatvantages for LCD are off-angle viewing and color palette and blacks.
FAR brighter (due in part to the artificial brightness limiters on late model plasmas to conform with energy policies)
less energy consumption
less prone to image retention
physically lighter and thinner (on average; there are some plasmas thinner than some LCD's)
far more competitive options
available in larger and smaller sizes than plasma
not a tech that is all but discontinued and will be hard to replace and repair

on the other hand, plasma is still better for:

natural color (again, on average; some exceptions)
contrast/black level
smooth motion (and no "Soap Opera Effect")
(with the above 3 translating to a superior overall picture quality)
viewing angles

I'd still make a plasma my next set if they had current generation models available at consumer pricing in the 80"+ range, but it's a discontinued tech so no reason to lament and I'll settle/adjust to LCD and hope that some day they make the LCD picture quality comparable or that OLED or a future tech comes along to do so...
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