2014 Sharp AQUOS Line-Up - Page 118 - AVS Forum
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post #3511 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 07:03 PM
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70sq15u

Does anyone have USER and/or DYNAMIC settings for 70SQ15U? I think these modes seem the best for regular TV viewing and maybe sports, but I haven't seen specifically for these modes.
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post #3512 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 07:50 PM
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So now I have a problem.

I came home today, fired up the TV and noticed something was off. It seemed as if the picture was a little blurrier or less crisp than normal. At first I thought it was me just being ultra picky, but then my wife made a mention of it. I checked all my settings, used different sources i.e. 1080p, Cable, Youtube and all seemed off.

Has anyone else ever had this problem? I'm still within my 30 day return period so if this doesn't get resolved, she's going back.
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post #3513 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerDark View Post
Thanks for your effort! I plugged these in and they look awesome.

BUT!

If you ever do get the chance I would really love you to try and get similar results on the Game Mode as that's basically all I can use since I use the TV in conjunction with my HTPC without getting ridiculous amounts of lag. Hopefully there are a few HTPC users out there with this model that could benefit from it as well.
Thanks!

I've done a run earlier using game mode where I did the 2 point greyscale and calibrated to a 2.2 gamma. I didn't use the CMS because game mode locks into the extended color gamut (like user mode does) and I can't get the colours to be accurate. It's annoying that Sharp has forced the extended gamut on people in game mode since it'd be a great mode to use for everything since I find the motion stuff to be useless as it just adds audio sync issues and weird ghosting on fast moving (like golf balls) objects.

If you'd like the game mode settings I got earlier then please send me a PM and I'll look to find them for you earlier in this thread.

ROB
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post #3514 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric_purdue View Post
Adorama and B&H Photo are now selling the 70" SQ for 2,197.99
Amazon, same price....it seems the price gods have smiled on us with a holiday sale.
Just pulled the trigger on the 70 SQ, but gotta wait till the 14th to get delivered.
But at least I can return it as a prime member. I'll pick up the Costco 3yr warranty for
$90 and be good to go.
Bought the WOW disc and Vizio 54" s-5430w-c2 sound bar earlier today to get some
better sound out of Dish, now onto some new cables and a wall mount.

INSANITY: Doing the same thing again and
again and expecting different results each time. (AE)
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post #3515 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msc219 View Post
Does anyone have USER and/or DYNAMIC settings for 70SQ15U? I think these modes seem the best for regular TV viewing and maybe sports, but I haven't seen specifically for these modes.
I use the same mode for all viewing on my displays which is the one I would have calibrated. The only thing I could see that would benefit sports and regular TV viewing (does that mean ambient light?) would be a brighter image and if so, I'd just look to turn the backlight up. Having oversaturated/off colours (like what user mode brings) IMO doesn't add anything to those things and will make them look worse as people will probably start to say things like the grass looks too green or perhaps neon.

I personally don't understand why some want two different modes for their movies and other content assuming it isn't just about ambient light. If they are way off (as in movie is pretty accurate and the other mode isn't) then it'll just screw with one's brain as they go between the two and they'll probably never quite find one that feels "right" to them.

I have seen many in the past think that somehow sports look off with an accurate mode but that isn't the case at all. Hockey seems to be one many have an issue with yet ice looks like ice with an accurate display. In that situation I think the issue is more the person just isn't adjusted to the accuracy rather than there is a problem with the mode. I've never had any complaints both with myself or anyone else watching sports on a display that has been calibrated. On the contrary, sports look lousy in some funky mode with a way off colour temp, blown out contrast and super saturated colours.

ROB
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post #3516 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
There are gauge readings in this thread, but they have tended to be discolored yellow.
Here are these again:

Sharp UQ17U Calibrations
Here we go again...

It's fascinating that someone who has no experience with equipment on these sets (yet has 2 years worth of having his brain conditioned to an inaccurate and too high colour temp image) and in general doesn't seem to even know how the equipment works seems to be so certain what the image looks like when using said equipment.

I have said it before...I have calibrated the TV with the equipment (which apparently gets fooled by the yellow sub pixel...somehow) and the image is NOT discoloured yellow. MY EYES CONFIRM THIS yet maybe nobody's eyes count except for yours.

Also, the image on the SQ looks like the image on my calibrated Samsung tv at home and my calibrated projector. So did my Samsung and projector grow yellow sub pixels to fool the meter? Surely it must have if the image between the 3 displays look the same or so similar one is splitting hairs.

Maybe a problem with many reporting their image being too yellow is they've spent years watching inaccurate displays so what they think is too yellow actually isn't and instead of accepting this possibility they just go stubborn style and assume things must be wrong. Only if they have another calibrated display to compare to (or a professional calibrator on hand or the director of whichever content they're watching on hand) can they actually make a valid statement regarding this. Otherwise it's just someone assuming something that may not be true. If they do have another display and see the Sharp having some issues with yellow then that would mean it is an issue with their set.

I do think the yellow comes off a bit strong with these sets out of the box but it can be dialed out without having to do any crazy changes and setting the image to look all blue otherwise and screwing everything else up. Again, I DID THIS.

But hey, apparently I am wrong and the image on that SQ is yellow despite the clear visible and measured evidence it isn't. I've been watching calibrated displays for 14 years so what do I know. I guess all I and other equipment using people are doing is trying to trick people and sell them on that snake oil of calibrating with equipment and watching an accurate image which an entire calibration industry is set up to provide people and which is something that gets done across the entire entertainment industry so the very content you are watching at home will match (or close to match) what the people behind it intended it to look like in your home.



As for people who feel they have too much yellow...I sure hope you aren't using the user mode or any mode that has the extended gamut force-selected since that will be a big factor in your issue. The difference between my calibrated mode CMS yellow and the default extended gamut yellow in game mode is HUGE.

Also, if some are so certain there is an issue and it is frustrating them then pony up a few hundred bucks and get a professional to come calibrate your set and be done with it! Why monkey around and think there is an issue and be annoyed at it if you can just hire someone to calibrate it so you KNOW the image will be correct and look the best it can look? Or do most somehow think the professional calibrators will magically not know what they are doing and that their equipment AND THEIR TRAINED EYES are going to be fooled by the mythical yellow sub pixel?

ROB
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post #3517 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Johnfull, Rilindo, and Mechman....I could use some of your advice. If you recall I have the new 80" UQ Q+ Sharp. I received the Disney Blu-Ray WOW Calibration Disc a few weeks ago. I have yet to calibrate any of the TV settings, using this disc. Granted, I have been very pleased with many of your settings. However, I recognize and realize that every set and panel can be different. So, I am considering when it gets dark tonight to calibrate some of the pre set modes and the USER/STANDARD modes, I'm currently using from johnfull. I am not experienced with calibration or using this disc. I hear that it is fairly straight forward and user friendly. However, I do have a few questions for any feedback. When calibrating, Should I completely disable Film Modes, refresh rates, SOP effect, Advanced Contrast modes, etc? What about OPC and backlight levels? What should these be set on when calibrating? Does the Disney Blu-ray have a setting to adjust backlight, etc? Just curious on things I should consider when starting a calibration. Any feedback from members that have experience with this disc are welcome. Thanks!
Doing simple adjustments like that isn't calibrating. You can only calibrate if you have something to target or match otherwise it's just tweaking which is perfectly fine yet I am just stating the difference between the two.

Regarding the stuff you mention, it doesn't matter really if you have those things disabled or enabled other than advanced contrast although if you plan to use that when watching content then set your contrast and brightness with it on.

The backlight setting would matter if you were calibrating (meaning with equipment) but since you won't be I would say you set that to whichever level you want, do your tweaks and then adjust it as you see fit when watching content.

As for using settings posted here, I would not recommend at all using my settings with a UQ since the UQs come out less blue (yet still too much, as in too high a colour temp) so my settings will look yellow or red on that set which if you tried them out you probably already saw that. SQs probably come about 25-40% too blue over the greyscale in low temp mode while the UQ is I'd guess probably something like 15-25%. The best settings to use would be mechman's calibrated movie settings from a couple weeks ago, at least his greyscale settings. His CMS results may look wonky on your set (I think a much bigger variance with set to set CMS values) which if that is the case then just use the CMS with default values.

If after you have tweaked and you find something is off and trying different settings doesn't help then really, I strongly recommend you hire a pro to come calibrate the set or buy your own equipment if you have an interest in this stuff and plan to use it on other displays you own or will own. Sure it may be a few hundred bucks to hire someone (or buy your own meter and software program) but it seems to me it makes the most sense for people to spend the cash and have their set taken care of rather than deal with issues.

These Sharp TVs are so bad out of the box that they should basically say "calibration required if you want the set to come anywhere close to looking good" on the product page and manual.

ROB
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post #3518 of 3868 Old 07-02-2014, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msc219 View Post
Does anyone have USER and/or DYNAMIC settings for 70SQ15U? I think these modes seem the best for regular TV viewing and maybe sports, but I haven't seen specifically for these modes.
As Rlindo has stated, both these modes are way oversaturated. I set the color temp to low on Dynamic mode and adjusted the brightness and contrast. The results were still way to blue and saturated.

I highly recommend you plug in rlindo's settings under movie mode. At first I was underwhelmed by the less "pop" that a calibrated display has. It really began to grow on me. Now there is nothing I'd rather have.
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post #3519 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 01:42 AM
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Mechman will be reporting soon, on his week with my ghastly settings.
I hope his color vision has not been destroyed the way of the majority who have
followed me off the RGBY cliff. If only they would build a TV without that pesky Y!
Is the RGB recording the Y output as G or R or some combination?
Still waiting for an explanation from anyone about how the Y is handled by a gauge
that reads only R,G and B. Sharp does us no favors by omitting a control to dial
the Y in or out, at our choosing, in the grayscale. Why, oh why must we rely on
these merely human eyes? Oh, wait -- the meter is not the master!
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post #3520 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 02:07 AM
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Rob's grayscale looks very smooth from one end to the other.
The meter is much better than the eye to sort out the temperature at all brightness levels.
I set my UQ to his settings and then simply added an equal amount of blue to each of the
10-Point segments to achieve what I consider the bare minimum purity of white -- not so
much a specific temperature, but the absence of coloration. Then I looked at a monochrome
screen with various scenes, featuring a range of grayscale variations to make sure that the
image didn't betray fluctuating levels. It was quite clean. By doing the minimal amount of
alteration from the machine setting, I was able to eliminate his tricks of changing the TINT
control to achieve the desired color. There is no reason to ever alter the global tint if the
grayscale is properly set up. The Tint control is a throwback to the bad old days of NTSC
color, where over-the-air signals would drift in phase and alter color information all at once.
Anyway, I have asked for Rob's help with the other settings.
I have not made a Movie setting out of deference to the guys with the gauges.
I would ask for the following, if Rob or Mechman would:
Take my STANDARD setting and go to the grayscale with your meter.
Go through the steps and change R or G to make every step the same average temperature.
Don't touch the blue, since it is the color in contention. This way, the gauge can accurately track
fluctuations and smooth them out. Then go through and set the B to the average value you see
across the spectrum -- just to smooth it out, but not to alter the average temperature.
If you would do that for me, it would be the greatest service.
In the USER setting, there is only the 2-Point adjustment, so less chance of drift.
Is this something you would do for us, Rob or Mechman? Anyone?
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post #3521 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Rob's grayscale looks very smooth from one end to the other.
The meter is much better than the eye to sort out the temperature at all brightness levels.
I set my UQ to his settings and then simply added an equal amount of blue to each of the
10-Point segments to achieve what I consider the bare minimum purity of white -- not so
much a specific temperature, but the absence of coloration. Then I looked at a monochrome
screen with various scenes, featuring a range of grayscale variations to make sure that the
image didn't betray fluctuating levels. It was quite clean. By doing the minimal amount of
alteration from the machine setting, I was able to eliminate his tricks of changing the TINT
control to achieve the desired color. There is no reason to ever alter the global tint if the
grayscale is properly set up. The Tint control is a throwback to the bad old days of NTSC
color, where over-the-air signals would drift in phase and alter color information all at once.
Anyway, I have asked for Rob's help with the other settings.
I have not made a Movie setting out of deference to the guys with the gauges.
I would ask for the following, if Rob or Mechman would:
Take my STANDARD setting and go to the grayscale with your meter.
Go through the steps and change R or G to make every step the same average temperature.
Don't touch the blue, since it is the color in contention. This way, the gauge can accurately track
fluctuations and smooth them out. Then go through and set the B to the average value you see
across the spectrum -- just to smooth it out, but not to alter the average temperature.
If you would do that for me, it would be the greatest service.
In the USER setting, there is only the 2-Point adjustment, so less chance of drift.
Is this something you would do for us, Rob or Mechman? Anyone?
Last night I used Mechman's 10 point settings (just the 10 point settings) on Movie THX, then made some minor reductions to saturation in green, red & yellow. Everything else set to neutral.

Picture shows more detail in the blacks, whites are very good without having to add any blue, overall picture is vibrant & rich. Of course, someone accustomed to viewing in dynamic would likely find it dull. Flesh tones are still just a bit off I'd say, but a good place to start from.

Mechman's settings (post 3205): 2014 Sharp AQUOS Line-Up
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post #3522 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 11:23 AM
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Thanks! I had tried the settings in standard MOVIE mode and
found obnoxious levels of yellow in shadows. These sets do something with that yellow
pixel that we can't control for, I fear. I was going to call Aquos Advantage this morning
to get their take on the matter, but got tied up with life's other challenges.
Tomorrow is the 4th, so it will be next week before I get back to it.
Maybe the THX is enough different that his Movie settings worked there instead?
I might give it a try, time permitting. Thanks again!
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post #3523 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 11:59 AM
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Common sense would say that you don't take blue away from a low temperature setting to
get closer to neutral white. Those guys' meters are not seeing the RGBY as our eyes see it.
Are you saying that you got a white without yellow coloration on your UQ set with those settings?
Did you try the MIDDLE setting on Temp. for THX? I built a preliminary setting with
the default MIDDLE temp. and it comes out slightly pink. The mysteries of perception persist!...

Last edited by johnfull; 07-03-2014 at 12:17 PM.
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post #3524 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 12:22 PM
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Well. I got everything dialled in on my 60eq10u thanks to johnfull. My only problem is the screen uniformity. Several "clouds." Is this something that will go away eventually? Please keep in mind I'm am use to plasmas. I'd hate to return this tv. Especially since I only paid $800.
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post #3525 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Thanks! I had tried the settings in standard MOVIE mode and
found obnoxious levels of yellow in shadows. These sets do something with that yellow
pixel that we can't control for, I fear. I was going to call Aquos Advantage this morning
to get their take on the matter, but got tied up with life's other challenges.
Tomorrow is the 4th, so it will be next week before I get back to it.
Maybe the THX is enough different that his Movie settings worked there instead?
I might give it a try, time permitting. Thanks again!
Yes, I experienced the same with the full settings. However, just using the 10 point grey scale settings and reducing the saturation on red, yellow & green has delivered a nice picture for me. Very nice shadows, with no hint of the rogue yellow.
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post #3526 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 12:47 PM
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Interesting! I don't have time to try it out -- I'm envisioning a sepia tone rather than full color.
You're right that shadow detail gets destroyed with too much blue.
The wavelength is difficult for the eye to resolve and gets hazy. Greens and yellows are the
best for shadow detail because red is too far in the other direction from blue for the eyes.
Remember 'Blue Blocker' sunglasses in the 80s? Amber colored lenses that make everything sharp.
There is a lot to be said for favoring yellow over blue and these sets are, thankfully, better at
it than my 2 year old one was. It had such an excess of blue light that everything had a gauzy
haze over it. I like the way the UQ color-balances, but the fleshtones are a real challenge.
I promise to try the Mechman MOVIE grayscale on the THX picture mode and see if I can adjust
it to look real. I wasn't that happy with the MIDDLE setting that I fiddled with, but it was as
close to out-of-the-box as I've seen. Thanks for the insights!
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post #3527 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Are you saying that you got a white without yellow coloration on your UQ set with those settings?
Did you try the MIDDLE setting on Temp. for THX? I built a preliminary setting with
the default MIDDLE temp. and it comes out slightly pink. The mysteries of perception persist!...
Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. Not sure what you mean by MIDDLE temp. The only "Temp" setting that I see is the "Color Temp" setting. I'm using Mechman's 10 point settings there, and:

Contrast = +29
Brightness = +3
Color = +2
Tint = 0
Sharpness = 0

All resolution, motion & picture processing = Off

All hue = 0
Saturation - Red -4, Yellow -9, Green -9, all other values -0-
All CMS value = 0
Active contrast = Off
Gamma = -1
Film Mode = Standard
Digital noise reduction = Off

Watching Game of Thrones now - challenging content - looks very good.
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post #3528 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 01:03 PM
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The Color Temp has multiple options and the MIDDLE is closest to neutral, as it should
be if they are actually offering a range of color temperatures from LOW to HIGH.
I built a THX setting without alteration of the grayscale and the white came out slightly pink.
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post #3529 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 01:04 PM
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I shall give it a try soon!
Double-check something for me, first, though:
In the Color Temperature setting, switch to 2-Point and see
what Color Temp setting you started with.
Mechman used the LOW setting, but if you used a higher setting,
it would have had more blue in it to start with, which makes more sense.
You can switch to 2-Point and back to 10-Point without losing your settings.
You can't see the Color Temp when it's in 10-Point mode is the reason to
switch temporarily. Whatever Temperature is in the 2-Point is the one
that the 10-Point also starts from. Let me know? Thanks!

Last edited by johnfull; 07-03-2014 at 01:14 PM.
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post #3530 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mllerena View Post
Well. I got everything dialled in on my 60eq10u thanks to johnfull. My only problem is the screen uniformity. Several "clouds." Is this something that will go away eventually? Please keep in mind I'm am use to plasmas. I'd hate to return this tv. Especially since I only paid $800.
The clouding gets better with some hang time. Some say that massaging the screen lightly
helps to even out the diffusion material, but I haven't tried that. Mine only shows clouding
when it first powers on now. At first, it was worse. You might just give it a week or so to
settle in. Glad the settings worked -- which one(s) do you prefer?
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post #3531 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I shall give it a try soon!
Double-check something for me, first, though:
In the Color Temperature setting, switch to 2-Point and see
what Color Temp setting you started with.
Mechman used the LOW setting, but if you used a higher setting,
it would have had more blue in it to start with, which makes more sense.
You can switch to 2-Point and back to 10-Point without losing your settings.
You can't see the Color Temp when it's in 10-Point mode is the reason to
switch temporarily. Whatever Temperature is in the 2-Point is the one
that the 10-Point also starts from. Let me know? Thanks!
Sure! The 2 Point settings are all -0- for RGB low & high.
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post #3532 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 03:12 PM
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No, up above the 10-Point -- the window that has the Color Temperature.
If you click on it, it will tell you what color you started both the 2 and 10 point settings with.
It had about 5 or 6 different color temperatures from LOW to HIGH.
I need to know what that says to know which one to start with.
Sorry to be confusing!
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post #3533 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 04:01 PM
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman25 View Post
Got a chance to sit down yesterday and calibrate my 60uq.
I haven't had a lot of calibration experience so any comments on results are welcome.
I am using a C3 meter with Calman 5.
Here are the numbers


AV Mode Movie
Backlight User preference
Contrast +27
Brightness +2
Color +3
Tint +4
Sharpness 0
Advanced
Resolution Enhanced Mode1
Motion enhancement 120hz High
Clear picture processing Off


Hue
R +4
Y -1
G +1
C -4
B -2
M -1


Saturation
R -4
Y+1
G +2
C 0
B-4
M -3


Value All 0
Color temp Low
Lo
R -6
G +5
B -24
Hi
R -6
G +3
B -19
Active contrast Off
Gamma Adjustment -2
Film Mode Off
Digital noise reduction Off
Gamma color gamut Standard
2 Point adjustment pics attached


I continued on with a 10 point greyscale adjustment after finishing the 2 point.

Point 1
R -23
G -2
B -30

Point 2
R -21
G -5
B -28

Point 3
R -15
G -5
B -26

Point 4
R -14
G -6
B -29

Point 5
R -12
G -5
B -21

Point 6
R -11
G -3
B -25

Point 7
R -9
G -2
B -21

Point 8
R -11
G -3
B -23

Point 9
R -9
G -1
B -20

Point 10
R -3
G 0
B -17
10 point adjustment pics attached


I have noticed in some scenes that there seems to be a slight yellowish tint to flesh tones.
This seems to occur in lower light situations.
Is this the peach effect you were talking about johnfull?


Any comments or suggestions are welcome.
Does anyone know if these are mechmans final settings for movie or if there is an updated one?

Also anyone point me to rlindos movie settings for the SQ ?

Thanks

Sharp LC-60SQ15U
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post #3534 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
No, up above the 10-Point -- the window that has the Color Temperature.
If you click on it, it will tell you what color you started both the 2 and 10 point settings with.
It had about 5 or 6 different color temperatures from LOW to HIGH.
I need to know what that says to know which one to start with.
Sorry to be confusing!
That setting is not available in THX.
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post #3535 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 04:12 PM
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It is available, but you have to switch the 10-Point off to access it.
Your settings will come right back when you turn it back on.
All I need is the initial color setting -- Low, Medium Low, Medium, Medium High, High or whatever.
That will tell me where to start with your settings. They each start from a different color.
The Low has the least amount of blue and the High has the most to start with.
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post #3536 of 3868 Old 07-03-2014, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
It is available, but you have to switch the 10-Point off to access it.
Your settings will come right back when you turn it back on.
All I need is the initial color setting -- Low, Medium Low, Medium, Medium High, High or whatever.
That will tell me where to start with your settings. They each start from a different color.
The Low has the least amount of blue and the High has the most to start with.
Ah, got it. It's set to middle.
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post #3537 of 3868 Old 07-04-2014, 01:26 AM
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That's good news -- I'll give it a try, then. Thanks for taking the time and trouble to document it.
I'll let you know how my UQ and my eyes react to your settings -- here's hoping!
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post #3538 of 3868 Old 07-04-2014, 02:12 AM
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Hey, that looks pretty good! Switching to Monochrome, I can see that the temperature is
even throughout the grayscale spectrum. Slightly yellow, which is good for showing detail.
The fleshtones are happier with this setting, giving the 'peachy' glow that I like.
Thanks for trying that out. Here's my theory of why it works --
Mechman started with the LOW light setting and worked from there, whereas you began
2 steps up from there at MIDDLE and applied the same fixes.
This means that you started with more blue than Mechman and ended up with more, too.
All through his grayscale, he is removing more blue and red than green, which is what I
have found necessary in my own settings to remove the purple/rust background grayscale hue.
I think you hit on a solution to the Yellow problem -- start with a color with less yellow to
begin with! Very nice. I like the way THX handles the color spectrum -- very 'Kodachrome'
in a relaxed and natural sort of way. Thank you for the research!
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post #3539 of 3868 Old 07-05-2014, 08:33 AM
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Hey everybody.


johnfull I tried running with your settings for a week but couldn't.
I found the colors to be way too over saturated and I could see blue in the whites, not all the time but it was there.
The yellow also had an orange cast to it.
These settings may be for some but I have been watching calibrated TV's for a few years now and they are not for me.
I still don't like the yellow flesh tones I was getting with my settings so I played with the CMS settings some.
I lowered yellow saturation and raised blue and green a bit, from my original CMS numbers, I also moved the hues that were close to yellow, a couple of clicks away from yellow.
Although these numbers aren't accurate CMS numbers as far as a meter goes they are more pleasing to look at.
I like the look of this compared to the numbers I had earlier.
They are still a work in progress but probably won't be too far from the CMS numbers I am using now.
Greyscale from the 2 and 10 point are still the same as that gives a nice neutral starting point.
If some of the other UQ owners in here could plug these in and let me know what you think.
So here are the latest settings.



AV Mode Movie
Backlight User preference
Contrast +27
Brightness +2
Color +4
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Advanced
Resolution Enhanced Mode1
Motion enhancement 120hz High
Clear picture processing Off


Hue
R -2
Y -3
G +5
C +2
B 0
M -4


Saturation
R +7
Y -14
G +2
C +1
B +10
M -3


Value All 0
Color temp Low
Lo
R -6
G +5
B -24
Hi
R -6
G +3
B -19
Active contrast Off
Gamma Adjustment -2
Film Mode Off
Digital noise reduction Off
Gamma color gamut Standard




10 point greyscale

Point 1
R -23
G -2
B -30

Point 2
R -21
G -5
B -28

Point 3
R -15
G -5
B -26

Point 4
R -14
G -6
B -29

Point 5
R -12
G -5
B -21

Point 6
R -11
G -3
B -25

Point 7
R -9
G -2
B -21

Point 8
R -11
G -3
B -23

Point 9
R -9
G -1
B -20

Point 10
R -3
G 0
B -17

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post #3540 of 3868 Old 07-05-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman25 View Post
Hey everybody.


johnfull I tried running with your settings for a week but couldn't.
I found the colors to be way too over saturated and I could see blue in the whites, not all the time but it was there.
The yellow also had an orange cast to it.
These settings may be for some but I have been watching calibrated TV's for a few years now and they are not for me.
Blasphemy! Your eyes and meter (and the entire industry that has chosen d65 as the standard white point and which encodes their movies/content using it as the base) are wrong. Your greyscale is yellow because looking at it for 3 minutes after being so used to a very blue greyscale with a 11000K+ colour temp means it is. I mean it's never like one's eyes and brain needs to adjust to any changes so looking at something for a few minutes and deciding it is too yellow is the way to go and ignoring everyone who actually watches a calibrated display/greyscale (along with professional calibrators and people involved in creating the content) saying it isn't yellow.

Good to hear you have tweaked things a bit more to help with any issue you feel is there. I am sure your settings probably look really nice and UQ owners would have a better looking display using them (many people have no idea how nice a an accurate or close to accurate image looks and the wide range of colour production you get with that...you don't get this when a greyscale is super blue since the content wasn't encoded with the super blue as the base) but I am sure many will stick to the super blue man's figures and in doing so say your actually calibrated greyscale values are too yellow and are wrong. It's one thing for someone to say they prefer something that isn't "correct" and freely say they know it isn't but another to imply the correct thing is wrong and try and pass off their preference as correct.
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