2014 Sharp AQUOS Line-Up - Page 151 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4501 of 4542 Old 05-29-2015, 05:31 AM
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Hi,

My Samsung just recently died and I am looking at the 70" EQ. My question is - how is it for gaming (PS4, PC)?
Input lag seems moderate at 60ms but I wanted to know if anyone has used it for shooters or action games - interested to know your experience.

Thx!

Last edited by tentacle2000; 05-29-2015 at 08:23 AM.
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post #4502 of 4542 Old 05-30-2015, 11:06 AM
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Lc-65le645u

I am having problems with my LC-65LE645U, it is randomly rebooting while watching content.

Anyone else seeing this?

Watching a movie and the screen goes blank, sharp appears, and no single is displayed then finally it comes back on.
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post #4503 of 4542 Old 05-30-2015, 12:51 PM
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Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by lundrog View Post
I am having problems with my LC-65LE645U, it is randomly rebooting while watching content.

Anyone else seeing this?

Watching a movie and the screen goes blank, sharp appears, and no single is displayed then finally it comes back on.
Yes!

I have a LC-70SQ15U and it does this.

I have a feeling that the software is crashing. It has done this about 20 times since I bought it. It got a firmware update a few weeks ago, still crashes while watching A bluray or netflix through an HDMI port.

This is why I would prefer a 100% dumb tv.
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post #4504 of 4542 Old 05-31-2015, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jinj View Post
Yes!

I have a LC-70SQ15U and it does this.

I have a feeling that the software is crashing. It has done this about 20 times since I bought it. It got a firmware update a few weeks ago, still crashes while watching A bluray or netflix through an HDMI port.

This is why I would prefer a 100% dumb tv.
If it is still under warranty, let Sharp know right away.
After 2 years of random reboots, they sent me a new set...
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post #4505 of 4542 Old 05-31-2015, 08:36 AM
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it's 4 months old. I also have a 2 year plan on it at B&H. Should I service with Sharp, or work with B&H?
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post #4506 of 4542 Old 06-01-2015, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lundrog View Post
it's 4 months old. I also have a 2 year plan on it at B&H. Should I service with Sharp, or work with B&H?
I would work with Sharp to start with.

Mine is just out of the Sharp warranty, it is under my credit card extended warranty now. I haven't decided what to do yet.
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post #4507 of 4542 Old 06-12-2015, 06:02 PM
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calibration settings for lc 60tq15u

Hello
I made this calibration and want to share with everyone.
Its in movie av but belive me looks like dinamic just tried:
Movie av
automatic sensor- off
backlight- +10
contrast- +29
brightness- +4
color- +5
tint- +2
sharpness-+6
advanced
resolution enhanced- mode 1
motion enhanced- 240hz
clear picture processing- off
cms- no changes
color temp- high
active contrast- advance
gama adjust: -1
film mode adv- off
digital noise red- off
monochrome- off
light sensor adj- max +16 min +10

I never like the movie av until now. I made this calibration using disney wow hd blu ray and calibrations tools of xbox one.
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post #4508 of 4542 Old 06-15-2015, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidekelleco View Post
Hello
I made this calibration and want to share with everyone.
Its in movie av but belive me looks like dinamic just tried:
Movie av
automatic sensor- off
backlight- +10
contrast- +29
brightness- +4
color- +5
tint- +2
sharpness-+6
advanced
resolution enhanced- mode 1
motion enhanced- 240hz
clear picture processing- off
cms- no changes
color temp- high
active contrast- advance
gama adjust: -1
film mode adv- off
digital noise red- off
monochrome- off
light sensor adj- max +16 min +10

I never like the movie av until now. I made this calibration using disney wow hd blu ray and calibrations tools of xbox one.
This is a good start... calibrating a display can lead down a long road of obsession and perfectionism. I'm a fan!

Movie mode is likely going to yield the most accurate color. Good pick attempting movie mode. I see that you chose to have your color temp at high. Remember, high will likely be above 9000k color temperature. 6500k is the most accurate color temperature (broad daylight in London). Setting your color temperature to its lowest setting will produce something closer to 6500k (but you will still need to adjust RGB controls to get this accurate).

If you would like, I can share my adjustments that I made using a colormeter and HCFR calibration software. I would venture to say that they would work for your display, but since mine is an SQ they might be off. It might be worth it to invest in a colormeter which can usually be found on sale at Amazon or B&H photo for under $200.
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post #4509 of 4542 Old 06-18-2015, 01:13 PM
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Trying to decide between the four below:

- LC-70UQ17U (Between 1080p and 4k, but haven't heard too many bad things, also cheapest by $250)
- LC-70UD27U (4k version of above, and only $250 more, but heard a lot of complaints on here)
- M70-C3 (PQ looks great but content is full 4k, haven't heard too many bad things, is it worth the extra $300 over Sharps 4k?)
- P702ui-b3 (Some are saying this is the better version of the M70-C3 even though its older, some disagree, price is about the same.)

I saw all four in BB and love them all PQ wise, however they always look good with the specifically made content the TV maker has BB play on the sets, even the 1080p Q+ has special content that BB has to play to make the PQ look as best it can.

When I asked the BB employee to put normal 1080 feed into each set so I can see how it will look at my house he tried to but apparently each set was locked into its content, whether or not he was being truthful, I'll never know.

I'll be sitting approx. 12 feet away from the TV, and mostly watch sports and downloaded or streaming content. My living is fairly bright, but not over the top, with direct sunlight never hitting the corner that the TV will be sitting it.

All TV are $2000 or less where I am looking at.
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Last edited by vrenaut74; 06-18-2015 at 01:25 PM.
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post #4510 of 4542 Old 06-18-2015, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrenaut74 View Post
Trying to decide between the four below:

- LC-70UQ17U (Between 1080p and 4k, but haven't heard too many bad things, also cheapest by $250)
- LC-70UD27U (4k version of above, and only $250 more, but heard a lot of complaints on here)
- M70-C3 (PQ looks great but content is full 4k, haven't heard too many bad things, is it worth the extra $300 over Sharps 4k?)
- P702ui-b3 (Some are saying this is the better version of the M70-C3 even though its older, some disagree, price is about the same.)

I saw all four in BB and love them all PQ wise, however they always look good with the specifically made content the TV maker has BB play on the sets, even the 1080p Q+ has special content that BB has to play to make the PQ look as best it can.

When I asked the BB employee to put normal 1080 feed into each set so I can see how it will look at my house he tried to but apparently each set was locked into its content, whether or not he was being truthful, I'll never know.

I'll be sitting approx. 12 feet away from the TV, and mostly watch sports and downloaded or streaming content. My living is fairly bright, but not over the top, with direct sunlight never hitting the corner that the TV will be sitting it.

All TV are $2000 or less where I am looking at.
Those are some good options. After owning the 2014 Sharp SQ and spending an awful amount of time calibrating with a meter and software I have come to the conclusion that Sharp really screwed up with the 2014 series of televisions. Until I read a review from a professional calibrator who says that these Sharps can get "near" perfect color accuracy and gray scale calibration I will not buy another again.

Very very many professional calibrators have stated that the Vizio gets near perfect color and gray scale calibration. I will definitely be looking at their televisions in the future and will include it on the short list.

It looks like the 2014 P series has more active lighting zones than this years M series. A deal breaker? I'm not sure but that is definitely something to take into consideration.

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post #4511 of 4542 Old 06-19-2015, 06:58 PM
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Remote Control

anyone have any luck pairing Samsung sound bar to the sharp tv remote? I also have a Sony bd player that seems to have synced easily but can't get the sound bar to be controlled with the "audio".
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post #4512 of 4542 Old 06-20-2015, 05:47 PM
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Thanks for the input...its a shame about the Sharp lineup, i don't know why, but I really want to love the Sharp TVs, and they look great in the showroom, but most TVs do when playing specifically adapted content for the tv.

I'll probably end up going with the M or P series...the BB rep said the M and P were pretty much the same, with the P having more active lighting zones, but the M series supposedly having better upscaling.

Tough decision...I can't imagine spending $3,500+ on a 4k TV until it has been out a year or two more. The Samsungs and Sony's look amazing, but their so are their price tags, and not in a good way.
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post #4513 of 4542 Old 06-21-2015, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrenaut74 View Post
Thanks for the input...its a shame about the Sharp lineup, i don't know why, but I really want to love the Sharp TVs, and they look great in the showroom, but most TVs do when playing specifically adapted content for the tv.

I'll probably end up going with the M or P series...the BB rep said the M and P were pretty much the same, with the P having more active lighting zones, but the M series supposedly having better upscaling.

Tough decision...I can't imagine spending $3,500+ on a 4k TV until it has been out a year or two more. The Samsungs and Sony's look amazing, but their so are their price tags, and not in a good way.
I have the UQ17U in the 70" size and I'm quite happy with the Q+ function.
I am waiting for the next generation of Quattron to feature better cyan color.
Sharp has promised wider color gamut for the newest top of the line set,
using both the new Spectros phosphors and the Quattron filters.
Meantime, this set has outstanding brightness and contrast and very good
utilization of the blue LED/yellow phosphor scheme.
The UQ uses a better red phosphor than previous models. Just waiting for
that blue-green to makes its appearance...
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post #4514 of 4542 Old 06-22-2015, 07:48 AM
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I just want to report that my 70UQ has died. After the Sharp Tech had my try a hard reset by holding in 2 buttons while plugging it back in, I no longer get a picture. The power LED now flashes, 3 long and 1 short, which I think means a bad main board.

Here is a video I took before I called Sharp Tech Support this morning.

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post #4515 of 4542 Old 06-22-2015, 10:04 AM
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Ugh, that sucks.

Did it give any signs of breaking in the days before it died?
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post #4516 of 4542 Old 06-22-2015, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I have the UQ17U in the 70" size and I'm quite happy with the Q+ function.
I am waiting for the next generation of Quattron to feature better cyan color.
Sharp has promised wider color gamut for the newest top of the line set,
using both the new Spectros phosphors and the Quattron filters.
Meantime, this set has outstanding brightness and contrast and very good
utilization of the blue LED/yellow phosphor scheme.
The UQ uses a better red phosphor than previous models. Just waiting for
that blue-green to makes its appearance...
Def not the case with SQ.... SQ does not have good contrast, brightness, color uniformity, etc. I would absolutely not buy this TV again. Looking for various ways to get rid of it whilst not loosing too much money.

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post #4517 of 4542 Old 06-22-2015, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyxv View Post
I just want to report that my 70UQ has died. After the Sharp Tech had my try a hard reset by holding in 2 buttons while plugging it back in, I no longer get a picture. The power LED now flashes, 3 long and 1 short, which I think means a bad main board.

Here is a video I took before I called Sharp Tech Support this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZUQVTbQBl8
Oh, no! My warranty just expired, so I hope it's not contagious!
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post #4518 of 4542 Old 06-22-2015, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jinj View Post
Ugh, that sucks.

Did it give any signs of breaking in the days before it died?
Not really. Couple of times I had to unplug the TV and plug it back in because the picture started to get choppy. Probably did that 5 or 6 times over the last 7 months.
The flashing you see in the video started 2 days ago. Unplugging the TV momentarily fixes it but the problem eventually comes back. It started coming back sooner each time.

I had a picture until I tried to do the hard reset while I was on the phone with the Sharp Tech. The hard reset never worked and I never got a picture again after that. The white power on LED just flashes now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Oh, no! My warranty just expired, so I hope it's not contagious!
My 1 year warranty expired last month. I had a case number from some stuck and dead pixels that I reported last year. They basically said it was acceptable and OK per their standards. I was a little pissed about that.

Since they already had me on file having a problem with this TV they are covering the repair. They said I will get a call from the local authorized repair company tomorrow to setup an appointment. I rather them replace the TV, but I can't complain since I am out of the warranty period.
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post #4519 of 4542 Old 06-23-2015, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyxv View Post
Not really. Couple of times I had to unplug the TV and plug it back in because the picture started to get choppy. Probably did that 5 or 6 times over the last 7 months.
The flashing you see in the video started 2 days ago. Unplugging the TV momentarily fixes it but the problem eventually comes back. It started coming back sooner each time.

I had a picture until I tried to do the hard reset while I was on the phone with the Sharp Tech. The hard reset never worked and I never got a picture again after that. The white power on LED just flashes now.




My 1 year warranty expired last month. I had a case number from some stuck and dead pixels that I reported last year. They basically said it was acceptable and OK per their standards. I was a little pissed about that.

Since they already had me on file having a problem with this TV they are covering the repair. They said I will get a call from the local authorized repair company tomorrow to setup an appointment. I rather them replace the TV, but I can't complain since I am out of the warranty period.
I had a mid-priced set from 2012 that had an issue with re-booting without
a prompt. After several warranty repairs and two years, Sharp replaced it
with the top-of-the-line UQ17U last June. Like you, I had registered the
complaint early and they assured me that any future repair would be covered.
I've now had the UQ for over a year without any issues, so I'm no longer
covered. I hope it lasts until the next batch of Quattron sets come down in
price...
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post #4520 of 4542 Old 07-01-2015, 12:56 PM
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I just bought an LC-55LE653U.

I'm having HDMI connection problems.

Every now and then the picture and audio will drop out and I'll get a "No Signal" message. I've tried multiple HDMI cables which have no problems on my other tvs and all 3 HDMI ports on the Sharp and keep having the same problem. The only way to fix it is to unplug the tv and plug it back in.

Anyone else experience this? Not sure if I should call Sharp or the store I purchased it from.

Last edited by DanM64; 07-01-2015 at 01:15 PM.
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post #4521 of 4542 Old 07-05-2015, 05:40 PM
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No.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #4522 of 4542 Old 07-06-2015, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanM64 View Post
I just bought an LC-55LE653U.

I'm having HDMI connection problems.

Every now and then the picture and audio will drop out and I'll get a "No Signal" message. I've tried multiple HDMI cables which have no problems on my other tvs and all 3 HDMI ports on the Sharp and keep having the same problem. The only way to fix it is to unplug the tv and plug it back in.

Anyone else experience this? Not sure if I should call Sharp or the store I purchased it from.
Sharp is very helpful.
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post #4523 of 4542 Old 07-06-2015, 03:29 PM
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John,
Do you have any insight on upcoming firmware updates? I've had issues getting screen mirroring to work since I 1st got my 70TQ and during my last chat with support, I was advised that there is an upcoming firmware update that specifically addresses screen mirroring.

Has anyone had any success with screen mirroring on the Aquos models?

Tony
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post #4524 of 4542 Old 07-06-2015, 06:14 PM
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Haven't tried. We use the AppleTV.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #4525 of 4542 Old 07-06-2015, 11:52 PM
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Here is the cal to the Sharp SQ 60" using HCFR and i1display Pro (after owning about 1.5 years and spending over 80 hours perfecting the calibration for Rec 709):

AV MODE: Movie
Automatic Light Sensor: Off
Backlight: +8
Contrast: +27
Brightness: +0
Color: +0
Tint: +0
Sharpness: +0

Advanced
Resolution Mode: Mode 1
Motion Enhancement: 120Hz Low
Clear Picture Processing: Off

C.M.S -Hue
R +7
Y +3
G -7
C +4
B +1
M -8

C.M.S - Saturation
R -2
Y -1
G +1
C +9
B +4
M -3

C.M.S. - Value
Not used

Color Temp: Low
R LO: +0
G LO: +10
B LO: -28
R HI: -2
G HI: -30
B HI: -30

Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: -2
Film Mode: Off
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Color Gamut Range: Standard
Monochrome: Off

After playing around calibrating for nearly 40 hours I finally discovered that having a lower contrast resulted in a lower average dE across the board with all saturation levels of the primaries/secondaries as well as decent color checker average dE. As a consequence, I increased the backlight. What resulted is a very accurate CIE diagram (compared to many other settings I have experimented with) and lower dE. Initially yellow was only accurate with a C.M.S. Saturation of +17. I found that this increased Orange on the color checker pattern too drastically (a dE of over 6) and flesh tones resulted in too much saturation making things noticeably orange... but the CIE diagram didn't reflect this as yellow "appeared" accurate between 0 and 90% saturation. When I used the color checker "yellow orange" pattern to reduce saturation to yellow then 100% yellow became accurate (low dE) and then Orange became accurate as well. Flesh/skin tones were much better.

Anyhow, anybody with an SQ should try out these settings. Remember, it is only good for Rec 709 material. Video games don't really do well as the input lag is too high for movie mode.
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post #4526 of 4542 Old 07-16-2015, 01:58 AM
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Hi everyone...

I have just picked up a Sharp LC60LE960X (which I think is the equivalent of the UQ17), thanks at least in part to the contributors to this thread! I am coming from a 58" Panasonic Viera plasma, but don't really believe that true 4k was the way to go just yet (still waiting to see how HDR and OLED develop over the next few years)... and as such I just wanted a high-quality 1080p set with all the mod-cons to see me through until then.

I am overall pleased with it... being blown away by some of the features. I have never really been a 3D fan, with most 3D films feeling gimmicky and only Gravity really selling it to the point that I would consider it an essential part of that movie's experience... but after watching Finding Nemo on 3D Standard Mode, I am just jaw-dropped at how good it is! I have already since gone out and bought a small collection of 3D blu's, where I find some work better than others (Auto depth control applied in each case). I am also a big fan of (don't hate me)... Film Mode! +8 for me (on Movie mode)... I really like the clean and smooth appearance, and makes CGI-animated fare one of the most visually stunning experiences I have ever seen. Fir the first time in my life, I actually enjoyed watching Pixar's Cars! I followed this with Total Recall, and watching it with Film Mode on was like a whole new experience of watching the movie, with a greater appreciation of the make-up effects... but there was a lot of distortion when Film Mode was trying to process fast motion or where a character was walking past a background that had high contrast (is this similar for most people?)

It also marks the first time that I actually use different AV modes for different applications, with Standard being used primarily for regular TV viewing, Movie (with film mode) for netflix/blu-rays, MovieTHX for a similar image but sans film mode, and Game for, well, gaming on X1/PS4. Alas... I do have a few issues.

Initial concerns are around the very narrow viewing angle. In fact, there seems to be one single sweet spot, and any diversion from that spot results in noticeable brightness in dark areas on the sides of the panel. As this is my first LED LCD, am I correct in assuming that this is just an inherent problem with such devices?

First of all... TV broadcasts are display really poorly. We mostly only have SD TV channels here in AU, and they look pretty terrible on my LE960X. There is a lot of colour-noise noticeable in things like coloured walls or clothing, there are a lot of artefacts surrounding logos and other areas that might have two objects of a high contrast to each other, and a lot of pixelation during high-motion scenes. These issues are not present when watching a blu-ray or Netflix or playing games, even on the same mode of Standard, but affects not only the internal tuner, but also the broadcasts on my Humax 4tune PVR (via HDMI) as well. Both are very inferior to my Panasonic Viera that was 8-years old... so i am really not sure what is going on. Is it possible that both the Sharp and Humax PVR just have poor DTV decoders?

I am also struggling to calibrate it properly. While I have used the AVS HD 709 tools to calibrate it as best I can (without a blue filter), I am just not happy with the overall look of it and am slowly customizing it to my liking. So far I have run the calibration tools on Standard, Movie, MovieTHX and Game (High Motion). In the days since, I have been tweaking these settings in an effort to get the colours to look natural and balanced (except for Game mode, where I have deliberately overblown the colours a little), but just can't quite seem to hit the sweet spot. I have tried using a few posted calibration settings for specific modes (including johnfull's) but either they aren't fully applicable to my model, or I just have different ideas of how it should look. I am of the opinion that copying other people's settings isn't really the answer, but was wondering if anyone can give some general tips on achieving a balance by sight? For example, I feel that there is still an excessive degree of purple hue to people's faces and lips, with a yellowy-green tinge as well, yet reducing magenta, green or yellow only seems to result in other inaccuracies. Do people mostly find that they don't need to tinker with the CMS Values? What are people's thoughts on using the narrow viewing angle to my advantage and using the washed out off-angle image to highlight certain colours that are oversaturated? When looking straight on, it might seem balanced, but when viewed from the side oranges or greens might really stand out while other colours remain even... again though, trying to reduce orange by lowering red and yellow tend to affect the other colours as well.

Lastly (well, last one I'll bring up in this post)... when using my X1 or PS4, I notice a slight light outline on some vertical edges, such as text or buttons. All of my gear runs HDMI through my receiver (and I have yet to try hooking the consoles up directly to the TV) yet seems to only apply to my consoles. This issue is visible across different display modes, but at varying levels. For instance, on Game mode it is very noticeable, while in Standard mode the problem is a lot softer, but still catches my eye. I have attached a couple of photos to try and highlight the issue... which aren't great but you should be able to make out what I am talking about. Check out the second line of text on the orange bar in pic 1... you can clearly see the issue on the Q in Conquest and the L in Large. You can also slightly see it on the orange 999 in pic 2. I have played around with Contrast and have continually tinkered with colour settings in an effort to remove this, but have only been able to minimise it and not get rid of it completely. Any advice on this?

I have only had the set a few days, and from the sounds of it I have months or even years of calibration tweaking to look forward to, but any help you esteemed forum members can provide along the way will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
- Clemery
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post #4527 of 4542 Old 07-16-2015, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Clemery76 View Post
Hi everyone...

I have just picked up a Sharp LC60LE960X (which I think is the equivalent of the UQ17)...

...Thanks in advance!
- Clemery
If it's the same as UQ17U, I would recommend the top setting on
page one here: Sharp UQ17U Calibrations
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post #4528 of 4542 Old 07-17-2015, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemery76 View Post
Hi everyone...

I have just picked up a Sharp LC60LE960X (which I think is the equivalent of the UQ17), thanks at least in part to the contributors to this thread! I am coming from a 58" Panasonic Viera plasma, but don't really believe that true 4k was the way to go just yet (still waiting to see how HDR and OLED develop over the next few years)... and as such I just wanted a high-quality 1080p set with all the mod-cons to see me through until then.

I am overall pleased with it... being blown away by some of the features. I have never really been a 3D fan, with most 3D films feeling gimmicky and only Gravity really selling it to the point that I would consider it an essential part of that movie's experience... but after watching Finding Nemo on 3D Standard Mode, I am just jaw-dropped at how good it is! I have already since gone out and bought a small collection of 3D blu's, where I find some work better than others (Auto depth control applied in each case). I am also a big fan of (don't hate me)... Film Mode! +8 for me (on Movie mode)... I really like the clean and smooth appearance, and makes CGI-animated fare one of the most visually stunning experiences I have ever seen. Fir the first time in my life, I actually enjoyed watching Pixar's Cars! I followed this with Total Recall, and watching it with Film Mode on was like a whole new experience of watching the movie, with a greater appreciation of the make-up effects... but there was a lot of distortion when Film Mode was trying to process fast motion or where a character was walking past a background that had high contrast (is this similar for most people?)

It also marks the first time that I actually use different AV modes for different applications, with Standard being used primarily for regular TV viewing, Movie (with film mode) for netflix/blu-rays, MovieTHX for a similar image but sans film mode, and Game for, well, gaming on X1/PS4. Alas... I do have a few issues.

Initial concerns are around the very narrow viewing angle. In fact, there seems to be one single sweet spot, and any diversion from that spot results in noticeable brightness in dark areas on the sides of the panel. As this is my first LED LCD, am I correct in assuming that this is just an inherent problem with such devices?

First of all... TV broadcasts are display really poorly. We mostly only have SD TV channels here in AU, and they look pretty terrible on my LE960X. There is a lot of colour-noise noticeable in things like coloured walls or clothing, there are a lot of artefacts surrounding logos and other areas that might have two objects of a high contrast to each other, and a lot of pixelation during high-motion scenes. These issues are not present when watching a blu-ray or Netflix or playing games, even on the same mode of Standard, but affects not only the internal tuner, but also the broadcasts on my Humax 4tune PVR (via HDMI) as well. Both are very inferior to my Panasonic Viera that was 8-years old... so i am really not sure what is going on. Is it possible that both the Sharp and Humax PVR just have poor DTV decoders?

I am also struggling to calibrate it properly. While I have used the AVS HD 709 tools to calibrate it as best I can (without a blue filter), I am just not happy with the overall look of it and am slowly customizing it to my liking. So far I have run the calibration tools on Standard, Movie, MovieTHX and Game (High Motion). In the days since, I have been tweaking these settings in an effort to get the colours to look natural and balanced (except for Game mode, where I have deliberately overblown the colours a little), but just can't quite seem to hit the sweet spot. I have tried using a few posted calibration settings for specific modes (including johnfull's) but either they aren't fully applicable to my model, or I just have different ideas of how it should look. I am of the opinion that copying other people's settings isn't really the answer, but was wondering if anyone can give some general tips on achieving a balance by sight? For example, I feel that there is still an excessive degree of purple hue to people's faces and lips, with a yellowy-green tinge as well, yet reducing magenta, green or yellow only seems to result in other inaccuracies. Do people mostly find that they don't need to tinker with the CMS Values? What are people's thoughts on using the narrow viewing angle to my advantage and using the washed out off-angle image to highlight certain colours that are oversaturated? When looking straight on, it might seem balanced, but when viewed from the side oranges or greens might really stand out while other colours remain even... again though, trying to reduce orange by lowering red and yellow tend to affect the other colours as well.

Lastly (well, last one I'll bring up in this post)... when using my X1 or PS4, I notice a slight light outline on some vertical edges, such as text or buttons. All of my gear runs HDMI through my receiver (and I have yet to try hooking the consoles up directly to the TV) yet seems to only apply to my consoles. This issue is visible across different display modes, but at varying levels. For instance, on Game mode it is very noticeable, while in Standard mode the problem is a lot softer, but still catches my eye. I have attached a couple of photos to try and highlight the issue... which aren't great but you should be able to make out what I am talking about. Check out the second line of text on the orange bar in pic 1... you can clearly see the issue on the Q in Conquest and the L in Large. You can also slightly see it on the orange 999 in pic 2. I have played around with Contrast and have continually tinkered with colour settings in an effort to remove this, but have only been able to minimise it and not get rid of it completely. Any advice on this?

I have only had the set a few days, and from the sounds of it I have months or even years of calibration tweaking to look forward to, but any help you esteemed forum members can provide along the way will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
- Clemery
Hi Clemery
Great to hear of another 960 owner! Seems to be as rare as hens teeth here in Aus. I have the 80" version which we've had since early December. Just started looking into calibration to get the best out of the set.
Our sets have slightly different specs compared to US such as Quad core CPU, 3 USB ports and 4 4K ready HDMI ports and we have the crappy Aquos net!
Have fun calibrating.
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post #4529 of 4542 Old 07-19-2015, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktown View Post
Hi Clemery
Great to hear of another 960 owner! Seems to be as rare as hens teeth here in Aus. I have the 80" version which we've had since early December. Just started looking into calibration to get the best out of the set.
Our sets have slightly different specs compared to US such as Quad core CPU, 3 USB ports and 4 4K ready HDMI ports and we have the crappy Aquos net!
Have fun calibrating.
Thanks a bunch... although the fun in calibrating seems to only last a short while, being quickly replaced by frustration! Certainly glad to know of another AU 960 owner!

Johnfull... thanks for the recommendation, but I had already tried your settings and were not happy with them. However, I went and retried your Dynamic and User settings again just to be sure (and was happy to start from scratch again), but they just aren't right for my set. This alone tells me that our sets must not be all that identical (especially after blacktown's comments above)... as the greens and oranges are totally oversaturated on both, so I am not suggesting that your settings are wrong, as they result in an image that I know you wouldn't be happy with on your set, so they just mustn't be compatible with the 960.

I have spent a lot of time on the weekend trying to tweak a mode (User) to my liking, and I think I have come pretty close. If anyone is interested in trying it out, I have posted my settings at the end of this post.

I still struggle with a few things, with the most annoying being the level of orange intensity. It seems to be really dark and intense, and visibly oversaturated compared to the overall image... yet red and yellow on their own seem fine (although yellow turns to orange very easily), and to make adjustments to the saturation and value settings on these two colours will ruin their individual appearance. What other colours could be heavily affecting orange other than red and yellow? I also find magenta is still very strong, despite being nearly at its lowest setting.

I am at least finding that the closer I get to a balanced colour pallette, the better digital TV broadcasts look. There are still certain problems with the broadcast image that I doubt even proper calibration could fix, and will still be inferior to the inbuilt tuner on my former Panasonic plasma... but a lot of the colour noise is now starting to mellow and feel even.

One other question I have... does 3D mode (both Standard and Game) come with pre-determined colour settings values, or does it just add 3D mode to whatever AV Mode you currently have selected?


In any case, here is my work in progress so far with my USER AV Mode:

Mode: User
Mootion Enhancement: Aquomotion 240
Backlight: STD (0)
Contrast: +29
Brightness: +4
Colour: +5
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
(all other sharpness, dnr, clear picture features are off)


CMS-Hue:
R: 0
Y: -2
G: +1
C: 0
B: -2
M: 0

CMS-Saturation:
R: -16
Y: -13
G: -16
C: -2
B: -12
M: -27

CMS-Value:
R: +13
Y: +11
G: +7
C: +9
B: +10
M: +8


Still need to sort out the orange saturation, balance magenta, and then try and get cyan into line (I find it is the hardest to calibrate visually).

Cheers!
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post #4530 of 4542 Old 07-19-2015, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemery76 View Post
This alone tells me that our sets must not be all that identical (especially after blacktown's comments above)... as the greens and oranges are totally oversaturated on both, so I am not suggesting that your settings are wrong, as they result in an image that I know you wouldn't be happy with on your set, so they just mustn't be compatible with the 960.
You are right in the sense that no two panels will calibrate the same. Not even panels that are the same model. In fact, calibration has a lot to do with environment and content. So, if you are wanting an accurate color calibration the only option is a meter and software.

Quote:
I have spent a lot of time on the weekend trying to tweak a mode (User) to my liking, and I think I have come pretty close. If anyone is interested in trying it out, I have posted my settings at the end of this post.
My suggestion... don't waist your time calibrating without a meter and software. The mind can play funny tricks on you (you'll think you are seeing an accurate color when in fact it is way over/under saturated or hue is off by a mile).

Quote:
I still struggle with a few things, with the most annoying being the level of orange intensity. It seems to be really dark and intense, and visibly oversaturated compared to the overall image... yet red and yellow on their own seem fine (although yellow turns to orange very easily), and to make adjustments to the saturation and value settings on these two colours will ruin their individual appearance. What other colours could be heavily affecting orange other than red and yellow? I also find magenta is still very strong, despite being nearly at its lowest setting.
My SQ was totally messed up in regards to orange, yellow and magenta. In fact, after spending nearly 40 hours calibrating I settled for something that was not even near perfect. It was a chore in and of itself to get gray scale properly calibrated. Once I got an average luminance that was acceptable I adjusted CMS controls. It was a very long time before I got CMS correct according to Rec 709. Once I was there though I through everything out the window because color checker was off and orange was crazy over saturated. I eventually settled for a hybrid of low dE for the primaries/secondaries at 75% saturation and color checker patterns.

Gear: Pioneer VSX-1124-K, NHT Classic Three (L/R), Classic Two (rear) TwoC (center).
PSA V1500 (x2)
HTPC/server (Emby), Fire TV Stick, Chromecast
OTA Winegard HD7698P
Sharp LC-60SQ15U (HCFR calibrated)
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