OFFICIAL Samsung 4k HU8550 and HU9000 thread - Page 103 - AVS Forum
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post #3061 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Phrawst View Post
I've seen HDMI cables rated at like 28Gbps. Why not just toss one of those in the wall and you're set forever.
Yes, I definitely agree with you and wanted to know if my thinking was sound on this. I will most likely have this done...as well ask them to run some Cat6 through the wall alongside the HDMI so that I can hard-wire the TV to my internet instead of trying to stream wireless to the TV.

Still curious about the AVR upgrade dilemma.....
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post #3062 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by EmoAbstracts View Post
Yes, I definitely agree with you and wanted to know if my thinking was sound on this. I will most likely have this done...as well ask them to run some Cat6 through the wall alongside the HDMI so that I can hard-wire the TV to my internet instead of trying to stream wireless to the TV.

Still curious about the AVR upgrade dilemma.....

I would hold off on the AVR upgrade unless you absolutely need to upgrade. This year only one manufacturer , Onkyo, has implemented HDCP 2.2 into their AVRs and due to chipset limitations the HDMI 2.0 they are using is only capable of the same level of 4K as HDMI 1.4. So really it is just HDMI 1.4 with HDCP 2.2, which no one uses yet. The higher end AVRs are implementing Dolby Atmos but unless you have ceiling speakers in the positions they recommend you won't really benefit from that either; plus there isn't much Atmos content available yet. By 2015 or 2016 I would think 4K content will be more readily available and we will know what features we will have to have in our AVRs to best take advantage of content. Just my 2 cents; FYI I am going to Upgrade my AVR to the Denon x5200w because I have a need for a new receiver.

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post #3063 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post

HU9000 = hw + sw (many zones), curved 4k
HU8550 = hw + sw (few zones), flat 4k
H8000 = hw + sw (many zones), flat 1080p
H7150 = sw-only, flat 1080p

^^^ I think this is the correct assumption. I am still trying to find the info I read that stated the HU8550 was hw + sw with fewer zones.

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post #3064 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Phrawst View Post
I'll test it tonight before I do the full TV reset. I have all my components (including my PC) cabled to my Onkyo receiver then one hdmi going in the wall up to the TV.


Will not having the PC HDMI cable running right to the TV screw me out of being able to game on the TV? Like I said in a previous post I haven't even tried it out yet.
What kind of gaming do you do on your PC? Mouse and Keyboard? Controller? When you play a game definitely make sure to put Game Mode on; that drops the Lag to about 56.5 or so according to DisplayLag database. I would test it both with the PC wired directly and through your AVR. I would also turn off all Video processing on the AVR if you haven't done so already.

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post #3065 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
Every Source has a Blank Name identified with -- -- (I think) that you can name whatever you like. I am not home to remember how to do it but I think if you highlight that choice then long press the smart control center button the option to rename it is given to you.

Hello, indeed it has the ----- option, but when i select this and keep pressing the center button, nothing happens.
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post #3066 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CBdicX View Post
Hello, indeed it has the ----- option, but when i select this and keep pressing the center button, nothing happens.

First are you using the Smart remote? and Second don't just keep pressing it, Press and Hold down until a menu pops up.

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post #3067 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by thewayacts92 View Post
Ok, I need to decide if whether or not I'm going to pay for an extended warranty. I purchased my HU8500 from Best Buy and I had 14 days to buy the Black Tie protection plan which should be by this Thursday.
Has any of you purchased any warranty plan? I've read about Square Trade. Is this a good or better option that the Black Tie?
There are other warranties you can buy on the net as well for a lot less cash..........
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post #3068 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 10:44 AM
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I just ordered the HU9000 (actually 65HU8590, which in Germany afaik is technically the same as your HU9000?). My question: I will calibrate it using either a DTP94 or an i1Display Pro, as software, I will use HCFR and provide the test patterns via a Popcorn Hour.
Main question is: what kind of LEDs does Samsung use? As you all might know, measuring LED-Panels does need special correction profiles, when measuring them. HCFR offers a variety, from plain and normal over "wide gamut" or special "white LED". And: some LED-panels can't be measured with the DTP94 anymore.

So: could anyone please provide me with more information, some useful advice or point to another thread or page, where I can find more info?

Thanks!
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post #3069 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
There are other warranties you can buy on the net as well for a lot less cash..........
Is there anywhere l could buy an extended warranty even though I purchased this TV in April?

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post #3070 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmoAbstracts View Post
Yes, I definitely agree with you and wanted to know if my thinking was sound on this. I will most likely have this done...as well ask them to run some Cat6 through the wall alongside the HDMI so that I can hard-wire the TV to my internet instead of trying to stream wireless to the TV.

Still curious about the AVR upgrade dilemma.....

Well I got the new Onkyo that has HDMI 2.0 on it, but I also didn't have a proper receiver before buying it. I also did the same thing with the Cat6 cable. I actually created a channel in the wall so that I can drop cables easily down to the floor without needing a fish. Right now its just the one Monoprice Redmere 18gbps cable and a Cat6. TV is hardwired to a 57Mbps connection.

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post #3071 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
What kind of gaming do you do on your PC? Mouse and Keyboard? Controller? When you play a game definitely make sure to put Game Mode on; that drops the Lag to about 56.5 or so according to DisplayLag database. I would test it both with the PC wired directly and through your AVR. I would also turn off all Video processing on the AVR if you haven't done so already.

Mostly mouse and keyboard though I do have a couple games that I use a 360 controller with. Wiring it directly to the TV is more than likely not gonna happen as it means taking it off the wall to do it and running another cable through the wall.


All the video processing things I could find on the receiver are off.

And turning on game mode is just setting the input on the TV to Game via the source menu right? Nothing else?

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post #3072 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrawst View Post
Mostly mouse and keyboard though I do have a couple games that I use a 360 controller with. Wiring it directly to the TV is more than likely not gonna happen as it means taking it off the wall to do it and running another cable through the wall.


All the video processing things I could find on the receiver are off.

And turning on game mode is just setting the input on the TV to Game via the source menu right? Nothing else?

No you actually have to go to Menu>System>General.Game Mode>On Changing the Input Name to Game doesn't do anything as far as I know.

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post #3073 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Phrawst View Post
Mostly mouse and keyboard though I do have a couple games that I use a 360 controller with. Wiring it directly to the TV is more than likely not gonna happen as it means taking it off the wall to do it and running another cable through the wall.


All the video processing things I could find on the receiver are off.

And turning on game mode is just setting the input on the TV to Game via the source menu right? Nothing else?
Have you turn off deep color? In that AVR's manual it shows how by pressing certain front panel buttons. It is in the troubleshooting section.

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post #3074 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
First are you using the Smart remote? and Second don't just keep pressing it, Press and Hold down until a menu pops up.

Hi, yes i now used the "smart" remote.
Well, not so smart as i can not get it to work.
Whats the differents between press and hold down, or keep pressing it ?


Thx.....
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post #3075 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:54 AM
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There is no way to use a custom name on these.

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post #3076 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by doctorwizz View Post
There is no way to use a custom name on these.

And what is de purpose of the ---- ?
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post #3077 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CBdicX View Post
And what is de purpose of the ---- ?
To use when none of the other names make any sense?
I have tried, it can't be changed from ----

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post #3078 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorwizz View Post
To use when none of the other names make any sense?
I have tried, it can't be changed from ----

a TV of this price range, and users can not put in there own names to a source, looks like we are back in 1980's..........
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post #3079 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:11 PM
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so it looks like in the samsung panel version thread, it is confirmed that the 8550 and the 9000 do indeed use 10-bit panels (if you get a samsung genuine panel anyway).

Good stuff.

However, it was mentioned a couple pages back, that even with 10-bit panels, it's not a rec 2020 ready TV, due to the lack of color space. Not sure how that can be addressed, but it's still good to finally settle the 10-bit debate.
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post #3080 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hisma View Post
so it looks like in the samsung panel version thread, it is confirmed that the 8550 and the 9000 do indeed use 10-bit panels (if you get a samsung genuine panel anyway).

Good stuff.

However, it was mentioned a couple pages back, that even with 10-bit panels, it's not a rec 2020 ready TV, due to the lack of color space. Not sure how that can be addressed, but it's still good to finally settle the 10-bit debate.
Can u link that thread?

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post #3081 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by doctorwizz View Post
Can u link that thread?
Samsung Panel Version Thread

post 779, near the bottom of the page.
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post #3082 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:18 PM
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My 65-inch 4K UHD 8550 is finally mounted on its new credenza and hooked into my A/V system. Here are a few thoughts and impressions after spending a week with this new set:

  • The picture quality is absolutely outstanding once the "soap opera" effect is turned off.
  • I find it easier to operate the new set and other AV equipment using my Harmony remote. It was easy to just reprogram it for the Samsung set (using the profile for an earlier Samsung set with Smart Hub.)
  • I still use the Samsung Smart Remote for interacting with apps on the set and to access the menus for set adjustments, etc. This small remote is handy but the angle at which you hold it to move the "dot" cursor on the screen can really get strange at times.
  • The only UHD media I can get to work are 4K videos from Youtube and Vimeo. At least they appear to be 4K. I can't bring up the resolution by pressing "Info" on the remote for either of these two sources. The built in Samsung UHD apps work also.
  • Netflix is a no go for me as far as UHD content is concerned. Everytime I attempt to play a video (such as a Season 2 episode of House of Cards) the resolution jumps around all the way from 480p to 1080p. My cable modem download speed is 16.8 Mbs. Guess that just doesn't cut it for Netflix
  • Samsung has done a great job with their upconversion of 1080p to UHD. It has truly been an eye opener watching HBO programs and other dramas (Tyrant/24) as the set reveals a great deal more detail and depth.
This is our first Samsung TV and we have our fingers crossed that we won't encounter any major issues with it. We have been lucky so far....
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post #3083 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrawst View Post
The Samsung is a 75". My 55" Sony 55HX850 has never demonstrated this kind of ghosting.
Unfortunately not all Samsung panels are created equal. Samsung employs some form of VA panel in most of their LED/LCD based displays and from I have gathered VA panels are inherently slower than say an IPS panel by LG. The response time has a lot to do with ghosting and most manufacturers stopped advertising response time on televisions. You used to see things like "2ms GTG response time" on some advertising. The grey to grey (GTG) response time is considerably faster than Black to white. I remember buying a 4ms GTG LG and having horrible ghosting and left me scratching my head. I read and article saying that while the advertised GTG response times were uber low the B/W could be as high as 100ms. The. Manufacturers began overdriving their displays to eliminate ghosting and ended introducing overdrive trailing or white halos around moving objects. I have owned the 46"-55" NX720 and had almost no ghosting and very minor overdrive trailing,but had a 55" D6900 that had horrible ghosting and trailing issues smearing blacks while also having halos around the object moving in screen. I know this is a long winded explanation and may or may not help answer your question,but just trying to help out. It has been awhile since I have brushed up on response time stuff.
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post #3084 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorwizz View Post
To use when none of the other names make any sense?
I have tried, it can't be changed from ----

I was just flipping through the PDF manual for the TV. I'm almost sure it mentioned that you can rename the inputs.

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post #3085 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by doctorwizz View Post
Have you turn off deep color? In that AVR's manual it shows how by pressing certain front panel buttons. It is in the troubleshooting section.
No I haven't done that. Thanks for catching that and all the help so far.

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post #3086 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
No you actually have to go to Menu>System>General.Game Mode>On Changing the Input Name to Game doesn't do anything as far as I know.

Hmm I thought the last time I tried setting the Input name to PC in the source menu that I noticed a bunch of picture config options became greyed out after that... I'll try to confirm tonight. Woof lots of things to try. :/ Wish **** could just work.

TV: Samsung 75HU8550
AVR: Onkyo TX-NR636
Speakers: KEF T205
Devices: Xbox One, Xbox 360, Wii U, Cable
PC: Intel Core i5-4670K, 3GB 760GTX, 500GB Samsung EVO SSD, 16GB DDR3
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post #3087 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrawst View Post
I was just flipping through the PDF manual for the TV. I'm almost sure it mentioned that you can rename the inputs.
You may be right. Page 30/229

To view the Options menu, press the TOOLS button or press and hold the E button on the standard
remote. On the Samsung Smart Control, press and hold the touch pad or press the KEYPAD button,
and then select TOOLS on the On-Screen Remote.
The functions that appear in the Options menu can include any of the following:
● Edit Name: Lets you assign a device name to an input source, for example, Blu-ray to HDMI1. To
assign a device name to an input source, follow these steps:
11 Open the Source List. The list appears in a horizontal line across the top of the TV. Using your
remote, highlight the source you want to assign a device name to.
21 Select Edit Name in the Options menu. The on-screen keyboard appears.
31 Using the keyboard, enter a new name. You can enter up to 15 characters.
41 When finished, select DONE on the keyboard, and then press the touch pad or the E button

Samsung 65" HU8550-TS01 Golf chipset, Denon 3312 AVR, Cerwin Vega VE's x 7, DefTech ProSub x 3
WDTV Live, Roku 3, Amazon FireTV, LG BD390 Bluray, WiiU,
DishTV Hopper w/Sling, Self Made PC, AMD FX8350, 16GB Ram, LG 16x BD-RW
EVGA GTX-980 ACX 2.0, Gigabyte GTX-750Ti, Asus AC-68 Router, 3 UPS's
Dell XPS 1820 18.4" AIO PC/Tablet
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post #3088 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 12:49 PM
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I can't get the on screen keyboard to appear.

Samsung 65" HU8550-TS01 Golf chipset, Denon 3312 AVR, Cerwin Vega VE's x 7, DefTech ProSub x 3
WDTV Live, Roku 3, Amazon FireTV, LG BD390 Bluray, WiiU,
DishTV Hopper w/Sling, Self Made PC, AMD FX8350, 16GB Ram, LG 16x BD-RW
EVGA GTX-980 ACX 2.0, Gigabyte GTX-750Ti, Asus AC-68 Router, 3 UPS's
Dell XPS 1820 18.4" AIO PC/Tablet
And much more...
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post #3089 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
HU9000 = hw + sw (many zones), curved 4k
HU8550 = hw + sw (few zones), flat 4k
H8000 = hw + sw (many zones), curved 1080p
H7150 = sw-only, flat 1080p

^^^ I think this is the correct assumption. I am still trying to find the info I read that stated the HU8550 was hw + sw with fewer zones.
Yes, I think this is true the more I dig. Here's what I'm so far understanding:

"UHD Dimming" >= "Micro Dimming Ultimate" = dimming implemented in software

From Samsung:

Notice the identical wording...

UHD Dimming precisely scans an incredible amount of zones across the entire image and adjusts brightness to deliver deeper darks and brighter whites. It virtually eliminates the "halo" effect and image distortion, so you’ll enjoy a crystal clear picture.

Micro Dimming Ultimate precisely scans an incredible amount of zones across the entire image and adjusts brightness to deliver deeper darks and brighter whites. It virtually eliminates the "halo" effect and image distortion, so you’ll enjoy a crystal clear picture.


"Precision Black" = dimming implemented in hardware

Experience sharper contrast with Precision Black Local Dimming. It dims LEDs behind the darkest area of the picture for greater contrast and darker blacks, while the brighter elements remain as bright as they should be. Sit back and enjoy the picture.

The HU9000 lists both UHD Dimming (SW) and Precision Black Local Dimming (HW).

The HU8700 lists both UHD Dimming (SW) and Precision Black Local Dimming (HW).

The HU8550 lists both UHD Dimming (SW) and Precision Black Local Dimming (HW).

The H8000 lists both Micro Dimming Ultimate (SW) and Precision Local Dimming (HW).

The H7150 lists only Micro Dimming Pro (SW, lesser processor).


Now, how many zones for each is anybody's guess, but it seems plausible that the "flagship" 1080p unit (H8000) and the "flagship" 4k unit (HU9000) have the most zones.

So I'll update my guess to be this:

4K Models:
HU9000 = hw + sw (many zones), curved 4k
HU8700 = hw + sw (few zones), curved 4k
HU8550 = hw + sw (few zones), flat 4k

1080p Models:
H8000 = hw + sw (many zones), curved 1080p
H7150 = sw-only, flat 1080p

That seems a very likely way to arrange your model lineup from a marketing standpoint.

So it again leaves me wanting the flatness of the HU8550 and the input lag of the H8000. I guess I'll have to take another posters recommendation and try gaming in-store on a HU8550...but I know numbers up at 60-75ms will be noticeable to me.

I know on other models, though, that the latest firmware updates have reduced the lag numbers (independently measured via Leo Bodnar device, not reported by Samsung). If the latest FW for the HU8550 could achieve the tolerable 36-46ms range I've seen measured on H8000 and the H7150, I'd be all over it.

I've considered the Sony, but the big dumbo ear speakers on the sides are a dealbreaker for my installation. And really, this set is primarily not for gaming (most of the time I do that on my DLP projector), but I will definitely use it for some and for the money I'm dropping, I want it to be possible if anything changes in the way I use my setups.

Thanks so far for the good analysis.

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Last edited by Samurai Jack; 07-16-2014 at 02:28 PM.
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post #3090 of 9626 Old 07-16-2014, 02:32 PM
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For sports, where should auto motion be set?
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