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2M views 22K replies 1K participants last post by  SaberJet 
#1 ·
Hi, guys…I've decided to start a new thread on these new 2014 4k TVs from Samsung so we can talk about them. Here are some links to more info about them:

HU8550 Series (55")
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN55HU9000FXZA

HU9000 Series (55")
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN55HU9000FXZA

HU8550 Spec Sheet
http://www.brandsmartusa.com/pdfs/manuals/20175428.pdf


I currently have an older Samsung UN55C8000 3D LED TV and it has served me very well over the last few years. Since the 4k TVs came out, I was seriously considering the 55F9000 as a replacement, but now I'm looking at this new 2014 series. As far as I can tell, here are the main differences between the HU8550 series and HU9000 series (this is after doing a comparison of the two sets on the Samsung website): HU9000 has Quad Core Plus processor, while the HU8550 has a standard Quad Core; the HU9000 is Smart Evolution Ready, whereas the HU8550 does not appear to have the same feature; the HU9000 has a pop-up camera while the HU8550 has no camera; the Clear Motion Rate on the HU9000 is 1440 while the HU8550 has a Clear Motion Rate of 1200; the HU9000 has Purcolor and Auto Depth Enhancer while the HU8550 does not have either feature.


Interestingly enough, if you review the Spec Sheet for the HU8550, it also suggests that there is no One Connect Box for this series. The sheet specifically mentions that the One Connect Box is sold separately…does this mean that the One Connect Box is not included with the HU8550 and all connections are made directly to the TV? If so, then I would give an edge to the older F9000 because I'm a HUGE fan of the One Connect Box idea and I would actually lean towards picking up the F9000.


As I understand it, these TVs also have an 8-bit panel, so I would assume that colors will be limited…this is a disappointment since I am not sure that these TVs would be able to accurately render a wide variety of colors according to the new HDMI 2.0 spec or whatever 4k standards will be established over time. I also find the HU9000 series to be INCREDIBLY annoying with the curved screen idea. I wish Samsung would have included these extra features on the 8550 flat series inasmuch as I do not see any great advantage of a curved screen. I will wait to see what the reviews say about these new series TVs and how they compare to the F9000. At this time, I'm torn between getting the 8550 or the older F9000 once that older series becomes cheaper. Presumably Samsung will release a new One Connect Box for the F9000 that will give it the same features as the 8550, so I'm wondering if that will be the best option for me.


Please discuss your thoughts on this new series along with expert and owner reviews here!
 
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#3,061 ·
Yes, I definitely agree with you and wanted to know if my thinking was sound on this. I will most likely have this done...as well ask them to run some Cat6 through the wall alongside the HDMI so that I can hard-wire the TV to my internet instead of trying to stream wireless to the TV.

Still curious about the AVR upgrade dilemma.....

I would hold off on the AVR upgrade unless you absolutely need to upgrade. This year only one manufacturer , Onkyo, has implemented HDCP 2.2 into their AVRs and due to chipset limitations the HDMI 2.0 they are using is only capable of the same level of 4K as HDMI 1.4. So really it is just HDMI 1.4 with HDCP 2.2, which no one uses yet. The higher end AVRs are implementing Dolby Atmos but unless you have ceiling speakers in the positions they recommend you won't really benefit from that either; plus there isn't much Atmos content available yet. By 2015 or 2016 I would think 4K content will be more readily available and we will know what features we will have to have in our AVRs to best take advantage of content. Just my 2 cents; FYI I am going to Upgrade my AVR to the Denon x5200w because I have a need for a new receiver.
 
#3,062 ·
HU9000 = hw + sw (many zones), curved 4k
HU8550 = hw + sw (few zones), flat 4k
H8000 = hw + sw (many zones), flat 1080p
H7150 = sw-only, flat 1080p

^^^ I think this is the correct assumption. I am still trying to find the info I read that stated the HU8550 was hw + sw with fewer zones.
 
#3,063 ·
I'll test it tonight before I do the full TV reset. I have all my components (including my PC) cabled to my Onkyo receiver then one hdmi going in the wall up to the TV.


Will not having the PC HDMI cable running right to the TV screw me out of being able to game on the TV? Like I said in a previous post I haven't even tried it out yet.
What kind of gaming do you do on your PC? Mouse and Keyboard? Controller? When you play a game definitely make sure to put Game Mode on; that drops the Lag to about 56.5 or so according to DisplayLag database. I would test it both with the PC wired directly and through your AVR. I would also turn off all Video processing on the AVR if you haven't done so already.
 
#3,064 ·
Every Source has a Blank Name identified with -- -- (I think) that you can name whatever you like. I am not home to remember how to do it but I think if you highlight that choice then long press the smart control center button the option to rename it is given to you.

Hello, indeed it has the ----- option, but when i select this and keep pressing the center button, nothing happens.
 
#3,065 ·
Hello, indeed it has the ----- option, but when i select this and keep pressing the center button, nothing happens.

First are you using the Smart remote? and Second don't just keep pressing it, Press and Hold down until a menu pops up.
 
#3,066 ·
Ok, I need to decide if whether or not I'm going to pay for an extended warranty. I purchased my HU8500 from Best Buy and I had 14 days to buy the Black Tie protection plan which should be by this Thursday.
Has any of you purchased any warranty plan? I've read about Square Trade. Is this a good or better option that the Black Tie?
There are other warranties you can buy on the net as well for a lot less cash..........
 
#3,067 ·
I just ordered the HU9000 (actually 65HU8590, which in Germany afaik is technically the same as your HU9000?). My question: I will calibrate it using either a DTP94 or an i1Display Pro, as software, I will use HCFR and provide the test patterns via a Popcorn Hour.
Main question is: what kind of LEDs does Samsung use? As you all might know, measuring LED-Panels does need special correction profiles, when measuring them. HCFR offers a variety, from plain and normal over "wide gamut" or special "white LED". And: some LED-panels can't be measured with the DTP94 anymore.

So: could anyone please provide me with more information, some useful advice or point to another thread or page, where I can find more info?

Thanks!
 
#3,069 ·
Yes, I definitely agree with you and wanted to know if my thinking was sound on this. I will most likely have this done...as well ask them to run some Cat6 through the wall alongside the HDMI so that I can hard-wire the TV to my internet instead of trying to stream wireless to the TV.

Still curious about the AVR upgrade dilemma.....

Well I got the new Onkyo that has HDMI 2.0 on it, but I also didn't have a proper receiver before buying it. I also did the same thing with the Cat6 cable. I actually created a channel in the wall so that I can drop cables easily down to the floor without needing a fish. Right now its just the one Monoprice Redmere 18gbps cable and a Cat6. TV is hardwired to a 57Mbps connection.
 
#3,070 ·
What kind of gaming do you do on your PC? Mouse and Keyboard? Controller? When you play a game definitely make sure to put Game Mode on; that drops the Lag to about 56.5 or so according to DisplayLag database. I would test it both with the PC wired directly and through your AVR. I would also turn off all Video processing on the AVR if you haven't done so already.

Mostly mouse and keyboard though I do have a couple games that I use a 360 controller with. Wiring it directly to the TV is more than likely not gonna happen as it means taking it off the wall to do it and running another cable through the wall.


All the video processing things I could find on the receiver are off.

And turning on game mode is just setting the input on the TV to Game via the source menu right? Nothing else?
 
#3,071 ·
Mostly mouse and keyboard though I do have a couple games that I use a 360 controller with. Wiring it directly to the TV is more than likely not gonna happen as it means taking it off the wall to do it and running another cable through the wall.


All the video processing things I could find on the receiver are off.

And turning on game mode is just setting the input on the TV to Game via the source menu right? Nothing else?

No you actually have to go to Menu>System>General.Game Mode>On Changing the Input Name to Game doesn't do anything as far as I know.
 
#3,072 ·
Mostly mouse and keyboard though I do have a couple games that I use a 360 controller with. Wiring it directly to the TV is more than likely not gonna happen as it means taking it off the wall to do it and running another cable through the wall.


All the video processing things I could find on the receiver are off.

And turning on game mode is just setting the input on the TV to Game via the source menu right? Nothing else?
Have you turn off deep color? In that AVR's manual it shows how by pressing certain front panel buttons. It is in the troubleshooting section.
 
#3,078 ·
so it looks like in the samsung panel version thread, it is confirmed that the 8550 and the 9000 do indeed use 10-bit panels (if you get a samsung genuine panel anyway).

Good stuff.

However, it was mentioned a couple pages back, that even with 10-bit panels, it's not a rec 2020 ready TV, due to the lack of color space. Not sure how that can be addressed, but it's still good to finally settle the 10-bit debate.
 
#3,079 ·
so it looks like in the samsung panel version thread, it is confirmed that the 8550 and the 9000 do indeed use 10-bit panels (if you get a samsung genuine panel anyway).

Good stuff.

However, it was mentioned a couple pages back, that even with 10-bit panels, it's not a rec 2020 ready TV, due to the lack of color space. Not sure how that can be addressed, but it's still good to finally settle the 10-bit debate.
Can u link that thread?
 
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