OFFICIAL Samsung 4k HU8550 and HU9000 thread - Page 181 - AVS Forum
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post #5401 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rlb View Post
He loses everything above 2.0 stereo which is the only thing the one connect will output from HDMI input sources. He loses lossless codecs from blu ray (i.e., dolby true hd and dts hd ma) as well as dolby digital.
Thanks for the heads up, I thought that was what the ARC option was supposed to fix, I guess I will rethink it, worst case I can enable the lipsync on the Onkyo and adjust accordingly once I see if there it any delay caused by the Quad core processor
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post #5402 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by pg_rider View Post
Just ordered a 75" 8550 from Cleveland Plasma, so now the waiting begins!

Word of warning -- I went through absolute hell with my credit card company (Capital One) trying to complete the transaction, through no fault of Cleveland Plasma. If you order a TV using your Capital One credit card I suggest first calling their fraud department to let them know the charge is coming, then 3-way call Chris at CP and do the transaction real-time to make sure it goes through.
Same here. Although he likes to tell you he's never had that problem before. [emoji6] He did offer me a discount if I sent a cashier's check.

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post #5403 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Pendragon2014 View Post
I just ordered the HU9000/78 and the BD-F7500, my Onkyo AVR does support 3D pass through, but i had intended to input the BD directly into the one connect box along with the output from the Shaw satellite receiver and then use the ARC connector to go from the one connect box to the AVR, I figured that I'd be less likely to have lip sync problems going the route yes/no?
I don't know what the "one connect box" is. But you should connect all the stuff (BD, Cablebox, Direct V box, AppleTV, whatever) directly to the AVR and the AVR to the ARC HDMI on the TV. Don't sweat lip synch, that can be adjusted if needed. Lip synch is overrated IMO.

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post #5404 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pg_rider View Post
Just ordered a 75" 8550 from Cleveland Plasma, so now the waiting begins!

Word of warning -- I went through absolute hell with my credit card company (Capital One) trying to complete the transaction, through no fault of Cleveland Plasma. If you order a TV using your Capital One credit card I suggest first calling their fraud department to let them know the charge is coming, then 3-way call Chris at CP and do the transaction real-time to make sure it goes through.
This is exactly why I cancelled my Capital One card years ago. It was embarrassing at the checkout lines every time they refused the transaction.
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post #5405 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rx3 View Post
This is exactly why I cancelled my Capital One card years ago. It was embarrassing at the checkout lines every time they refused the transaction.
It's an understandable safeguard. Large unusual and out of state transactions are always scrutinized. I'm glad they're watching.

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post #5406 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 11:52 AM
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Declined cards Seams to happen more and more on high ticket items. The new credit card issues seemed to trigger some new alcra rhythms they say that leads to new declines.
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Last edited by Cleveland Plasma; 09-23-2014 at 11:56 AM.
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post #5407 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pilotart View Post
My user manual makes a point about a special "Wall Mount Adapter" that is provided with the 75" model.

I also think it would need to consider the washer and thickness of the VESA Bracket, perhaps their "C (mm)" length is for below the bracket's face... Such a critical factor for the installation to not drop or damage the TV.

There was a Review on Amazon that said finding the correct length 8M's was difficult and he finally found them at ACE Hardware.
I must say this is all a bit disconcerting, but hopefully much ado about nothing. Can anyone confirm whether or not the 75" 8550 can be mounted with any old wall mount and not require additional hardware?

I bought a typical slim mount from Monoprice that seems very straightforward. Per the manual that comes with the mount, it looks like I'll want to use the included plastic spacers:



If anyone has mounted the 75" with a non-Samsung mount, please chime in!

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post #5408 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Pendragon2014 View Post
Thanks for the heads up, I thought that was what the ARC option was supposed to fix, I guess I will rethink it, worst case I can enable the lipsync on the Onkyo and adjust accordingly once I see if there it any delay caused by the Quad core processor
Don't worry about lip sync issues. Your AVR has the ability to correct that. In order to get the best sound, run everything through your receiver and then Connect it to the ARC port on the One Connect. Test that out (some people have issues with ARC disconnecting) and if you are having issues getting sound from TV Apps just run an optical cable from the TV out to the Receiver optical in for the Apps.

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post #5409 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 01:05 PM
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So, I wanted to comment a little on my set. I had one primary reservation about my 8550 (and the 9000) after having it home for a few days, and though I still think this factor is an issue, it seems to be getting better.

I was hesitant about bringing this up, because I didn't want rain on anyone's parade. But when I first got the 8550 home, the set just looked a little more LCD-like and washed out than it had in the store. I could tell because when I would watch the same program on both my 8550 and my good old LNA650, the 650 had better flesh tones (something else I've heard people say). I wondered if this had to do with not having Pur Color, but when I went back to Best Buy, I noticed the same issue with the 9000.

So, I tried really hard to look at all factors, and here's what I came up with: I feel like the Gorilla Glass they use isn't as thick as it used to be, resulting in a brighter but also a less inky image. In terms of the glass, this is a fact. I can just feel that the 650 has a thicker Ultra Clear Panel. It seems that they are building these TVs lighter (and maybe a little cheaper) than they used to. Even the plastic on the back seems less sturdy on the 8550. When I plugged in a stereo cable to connect my TV's sound to my sound bar, it felt like the back was flimsy plastic compared to the sturdy plastic on the back of the 650. The build feeling slighter may also be a result of making these TVs thinner and thinner, which is obviously a positive.

But, I'm happy to report that the 8550 has started to look more like the 650 in terms of color saturation. It still isn't as rich with flesh tones, but it's damn close, and with the huge difference in detail, the 8550 now blows away the 650. The thing is, it didn't right out of the box. My fiancé actually liked the 650 better until the last few days.

Thoughts?

Samsung UN60HU8550
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post #5410 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 01:05 PM
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I am awaiting my order of the SS UN50UD8550 from BB (since Amazon does not ship to Hawaii) ...

A couple of questions...

I see that a number of people are having issues with the newer firmwares. Do you recommend not upgrading the firmware? What are the advantages/disadvantages of this?

Do you enable the clear motion function? If so, what is the best setting?

What about the backlight level?

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #5411 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thebignewt View Post
I don't know what the "one connect box" is. But you should connect all the stuff (BD, Cablebox, Direct V box, AppleTV, whatever) directly to the AVR and the AVR to the ARC HDMI on the TV. Don't sweat lip synch, that can be adjusted if needed. Lip synch is overrated IMO.

It is "overrated" if you are using HDMI and all your components are HDMI 1.3a or above. In that case, it's automatic lip sync (the display "tells" the AVR it's standard video processing time--which the AVR adjusts for and normally gets you close enough that you don't notice any problems).
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post #5412 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 01:24 PM
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AU panel worth it to save 33%?

buying this TV and according to seller

Hu8550 in 55 inch

AU panel is $1400
TH whatever panel is $2100

that is a major price difference.

I am tempted to buy at $1400, and I would be happy if the tv at $1400 is 90% as good as the $2100 panel one

any comments or insights? I searched for hours on google but the threads are too messy to find any real info.
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post #5413 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by grizzledbiker View Post
It's an understandable safeguard. Large unusual and out of state transactions are always scrutinized. I'm glad they're watching.

sent via HTC ONE M7
Disagree. Capital One's "safeguards" are way too aggressive. Been with Wells Fargo since I cancelled Capital One and they are nowhere near as bad. When I complained to the Capital One rep, they agreed and said they were working with their security department to lighten up their security software that automatically declines transactions.
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post #5414 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
Don't worry about lip sync issues. Your AVR has the ability to correct that. In order to get the best sound, run everything through your receiver and then Connect it to the ARC port on the One Connect. Test that out (some people have issues with ARC disconnecting) and if you are having issues getting sound from TV Apps just run an optical cable from the TV out to the Receiver optical in for the Apps.
Thanks that was going to be my next question if the one connect box doesn't support 5.1 or 7.1 how do you get Dolby from Netflix and Amazon, but optical will work
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post #5415 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
Don't worry about lip sync issues. Your AVR has the ability to correct that. In order to get the best sound, run everything through your receiver and then Connect it to the ARC port on the One Connect. Test that out (some people have issues with ARC disconnecting) and if you are having issues getting sound from TV Apps just run an optical cable from the TV out to the Receiver optical in for the Apps.
I'm thinking that I can get rid of my DVDO Iscan duo that I purchased for my HD projector a couple of years ago, I doubt that I will need it
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post #5416 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 02:46 PM
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Cable length seems to be a factor when passing HDMI 2.0 video signal at 60Hz. With a 25ft cable (Amazon Basic brand - rated for 3D), I was getting small white sparkle effects on the screen. Was very subtle, didn't notice until I brought up a fully black BG.

I tried another cable - same brand but 15ft, and the sparkle effect was gone. Maybe there are better quality cables that would work at 25ft+, not sure, but just throwing this out there.

Last edited by x3sphere; 09-23-2014 at 02:50 PM.
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post #5417 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Pendragon2014 View Post
Thanks that was going to be my next question if the one connect box doesn't support 5.1 or 7.1 how do you get Dolby from Netflix and Amazon, but optical will work
Ok here is where most people get confused:

Using ARC to provide sound from TV Apps you will receive Dolby Digital 5.1/Dolby Digital Plus or DTS 5.1 depending on the App and your selection in the Sound Menu. Optical is capable of the same (I believe, there are varying opinions on ARC vs Optical) although I am not sure about the DD+ part on that one.

Now if you have the TV set to PCM or DTS Neo2.5 it will only output 2 channels audio so you defnitely want to make sure you choose Dolby or DTS when they aren't greyed out in the Sound menu. Once you choose Dolby once in the Sound menu in an App it should remember your choose the next time.

Last but definitely not least, if you do plug your Bluray player into the Once Connect you will only ever get Stereo sound as the TV cannot pass through 5.1 or 7.1 sound from an HDMI Device, only 2.0. If you absolutely had to have it plugged into your TV I would run an optical cable from your Bluray player to your receiver to get better sound but HDMI carries the best sound.
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post #5418 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by x3sphere View Post
Cable length seems to be a factor when passing HDMI 2.0 video signal at 60Hz. With a 25ft cable (Amazon Basic brand - rated for 3D), I was getting small white sparkle effects on the screen. Was very subtle, didn't notice until I brought up a fully black BG.

I tried another cable - same brand but 15ft, and the sparkle effect was gone. Maybe there are better quality cables that would work at 25ft+, not sure, but just throwing this out there.
For longer cable runs you would want to look into a cable with Redmere Tech built in.

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post #5419 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjm View Post
buying this TV and according to seller

Hu8550 in 55 inch

AU panel is $1400
TH whatever panel is $2100

that is a major price difference.

I am tempted to buy at $1400, and I would be happy if the tv at $1400 is 90% as good as the $2100 panel one

any comments or insights? I searched for hours on google but the threads are too messy to find any real info.
Google your "Seller".

It looks like a Classic "Bait and Switch" they're trying to pull on you, Low Ball you with a 'too-good-to-be-true' price and then have one of their 'experts' up-sell you.

The price controls apply to "Advertised Prices" and You can "Deal" with one of the Reputable Dealers like Cleveland Plasma, who happens to be a sponsor of this forum.

I wish you the best of luck.

Last edited by pilotart; 09-23-2014 at 03:07 PM. Reason: typo
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post #5420 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Pendragon2014 View Post
I'm thinking that I can get rid of my DVDO Iscan duo that I purchased for my HD projector a couple of years ago, I doubt that I will need it
Yeah I doubt you would need it as well. Projectors can be a pain in the rear with lip sync/lag issues.

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post #5421 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 03:40 PM
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yeah that occurred to me

If i have to pay $2100 or whatever I would just walk into best buy, no way I would agree to be "upsold"

thx
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post #5422 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by WheelHoss1 View Post
So, I wanted to comment a little on my set. I had one primary reservation about my 8550 (and the 9000) after having it home for a few days, and though I still think this factor is an issue, it seems to be getting better.

I was hesitant about bringing this up, because I didn't want rain on anyone's parade. But when I first got the 8550 home, the set just looked a little more LCD-like and washed out than it had in the store. I could tell because when I would watch the same program on both my 8550 and my good old LNA650, the 650 had better flesh tones (something else I've heard people say). I wondered if this had to do with not having Pur Color, but when I went back to Best Buy, I noticed the same issue with the 9000.

So, I tried really hard to look at all factors, and here's what I came up with: I feel like the Gorilla Glass they use isn't as thick as it used to be, resulting in a brighter but also a less inky image. In terms of the glass, this is a fact. I can just feel that the 650 has a thicker Ultra Clear Panel. It seems that they are building these TVs lighter (and maybe a little cheaper) than they used to. Even the plastic on the back seems less sturdy on the 8550. When I plugged in a stereo cable to connect my TV's sound to my sound bar, it felt like the back was flimsy plastic compared to the sturdy plastic on the back of the 650. The build feeling slighter may also be a result of making these TVs thinner and thinner, which is obviously a positive.

But, I'm happy to report that the 8550 has started to look more like the 650 in terms of color saturation. It still isn't as rich with flesh tones, but it's damn close, and with the huge difference in detail, the 8550 now blows away the 650. The thing is, it didn't right out of the box. My fiancé actually liked the 650 better until the last few days.

Thoughts?
May be. I know my C8000 was aluminum or some kind of metal on the back and not plastic.
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post #5423 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 07:06 PM
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Yeah I doubt you would need it as well. Projectors can be a pain in the rear with lip sync/lag issues.
I originally purchased it for its upscalling capabilities and the fact that I had total control over the gamma, brightness and contrast settings, I think the HU9000 will be a quantum step forward for me
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post #5424 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
Ok here is where most people get confused:

Using ARC to provide sound from TV Apps you will receive Dolby Digital 5.1/Dolby Digital Plus or DTS 5.1 depending on the App and your selection in the Sound Menu. Optical is capable of the same (I believe, there are varying opinions on ARC vs Optical) although I am not sure about the DD+ part on that one.

Now if you have the TV set to PCM or DTS Neo2.5 it will only output 2 channels audio so you defnitely want to make sure you choose Dolby or DTS when they aren't greyed out in the Sound menu. Once you choose Dolby once in the Sound menu in an App it should remember your choose the next time.

Last but definitely not least, if you do plug your Bluray player into the Once Connect you will only ever get Stereo sound as the TV cannot pass through 5.1 or 7.1 sound from an HDMI Device, only 2.0. If you absolutely had to have it plugged into your TV I would run an optical cable from your Bluray player to your receiver to get better sound but HDMI carries the best sound.
My reasoning for plugging the Bluray into the one connect is two fold, firstly I should be able to control the BR from the tv and visa versa since the BR is a Samsung BD-F7500, I had also read somewhere that there is something strange that happens between the 9000 series and the F7500 both of which can perform upscaling to 4K apparently the resulting image from the combination is better than either one separately, I have no idea why or how, but since I had planned to purchase a new Bluray anyway I figured I could do worse than going for the combination of the two. I will take your advice and connect the BR to the AVR via an optical cable or by HDMI from the second output port on the 7500
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post #5425 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Pendragon2014 View Post
My reasoning for plugging the Bluray into the one connect is two fold, firstly I should be able to control the BR from the tv and visa versa since the BR is a Samsung BD-F7500, I had also read somewhere that there is something strange that happens between the 9000 series and the F7500 both of which can perform upscaling to 4K apparently the resulting image from the combination is better than either one separately, I have no idea why or how, but since I had planned to purchase a new Bluray anyway I figured I could do worse than going for the combination of the two. I will take your advice and connect the BR to the AVR via an optical cable or by HDMI from the second output port on the 7500
Definitely use the 2nd HDMI port for sound if your Bluray has it. As for the Bluray and 9000 upscaling at the same time, it doesn't work that way. If the Bluray upscaled it to 4k then the TV is receiving a 4K image and it does no upscaling (because none needs to be done, it is already 4k).
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post #5426 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 08:14 PM
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If you use SoundConnect to pass sound from the 9000 to a compatible Samsung sound bar, does it pass full Dolby Digital or DTS or does it only pass 2.0 like HDMI? And does using Optical pass full Dolby or DTS?
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post #5427 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sikclown View Post
Definitely use the 2nd HDMI port for sound if your Bluray has it. As for the Bluray and 9000 upscaling at the same time, it doesn't work that way. If the Bluray upscaled it to 4k then the TV is receiving a 4K image and it does no upscaling (because none needs to be done, it is already 4k).
In that case I'll turn off the upscaling on the BR and let the 9000 do its best, I cant imagine a $200 BR doing a better job of upscaling than an $8000 TV
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post #5428 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Citivas View Post
If you use SoundConnect to pass sound from the 9000 to a compatible Samsung sound bar, does it pass full Dolby Digital or DTS or does it only pass 2.0 like HDMI? And does using Optical pass full Dolby or DTS?
Not 100% sure on this but isn't Bluetooth Stereo only? SoundConnect is just Bluetooth so I think the restrictions apply. Most soundbars usually just attempt to simulate 5.1 anyway.

UN65F9000AFXZA + SEK2500U/ZA firmware version 1162.2
Denon AVR-X5200W, Apple TV, Sony BDP-S6200, PS4, Xbox One
(2) Klipsch RF-82IIs, (2)RS-62IIs (4)RS-52IIs, (2)RS-42IIs, (1)RC-62ii, (2)RB-61IIs
(1) SVS PB12-Plus, (1)Emotiva XPA-100, (1)XPA-200, (1)UPA-200,
UN55HU8550, AVR-S900W, Ceton Echo, Apple TV, Panny BDT460, PC,
(1)Klipsch G-42, (2)G-16s, (2) Bose 161, (1)BIC Acoustech PL-200
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post #5429 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonjm View Post
buying this TV and according to seller

Hu8550 in 55 inch

AU panel is $1400
TH whatever panel is $2100

that is a major price difference.

I am tempted to buy at $1400, and I would be happy if the tv at $1400 is 90% as good as the $2100 panel one

any comments or insights? I searched for hours on google but the threads are too messy to find any real info.
Forgive my ignorance, what is a "AU" and "TH" panel?
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post #5430 of 10325 Old 09-23-2014, 09:18 PM
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I have a few of curious questions to ask.

1) right now I am currently running my cable through the ANT and was just wondering if I would get any better performances through a STB box with HDMI outputs? If so are there any recommendations for a good one that has a built in PVR?

2) I am having my tv replaced on thursday due to updating issues and I know updates are model specific and was wondering what firmware are other 50 in. HU8550 owners are currently on?

Any info is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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Reply LCD Flat Panel Displays

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samsung u8550 , Samsung Un55c8000 55 Inch 1080p 240 Hz 3d Led Hdtv
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