OFFICIAL Samsung 4k HU8550 and HU9000 thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgud79 View Post

I think i have figured out how to get 4k res (HDMI 2.0) 3840x2160@60HZ without new compatible graphics cards, so all those guys who have their PC's hooked up to their tv's, will have a blast playing in 4k@60FPS (as long as you have required horsepower to do that wink.gif

It always worked on my PC for some reason, but when i tried to help a friend of mine get same results, even with the same cables, setup, and everything else...it just wouldn't work! But now it finally does!

I don't have much time right now, as i'm late for dinner, but hopefully later tonight i will get a chance to share it with everyone here smile.gif

Cheers, Mario

Really interested your solution, my 780 SLI setup is yearning for some 4K@60Hz gaming :D

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post #902 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 03:42 PM
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The only difference in the 8550 and 9000 - other than the curved screen, that I can find is the clear motion rate.

 

The 8550 has 1200 and the 9000 has 1440.

 

Are there any other differences that I am missing?

 

:confused: 

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post #903 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 05:08 PM
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So, finally I saw hu9000 and hu8550 at a local frys. I was set getting either hu8550 or hu9000, just wanted to see one last time which one I prefer more.

However, after I spent some amount of time looking at Sammy (both) and Sony (x850b) side by side displaying the same content, I noticed that pictures on Samsung TVs look like they are extremely processed. Lots of noise reduction combined with increased sharpness and contrast makes all images look like plastic. I couldn't see any film grain for instance on Samsung, whereas Sony looked it maintained and displayed every bit of the picture correctly.

So they had the remote for Samsung hu9000. I played around a little and tried to turn off all the noise processing crap. I couldn't find a way to turn of pure color or depth enhancer. Still, images looked like plastic compared to Sony. Am I hallucinating or have you guys noticed similar plastic looking images on Samsung TVs?
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post #904 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 05:23 PM
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the hu 9000 is more money that is another difference

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post #905 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcec View Post

So, finally I saw hu9000 and hu8550 at a local frys. I was set getting either hu8550 or hu9000, just wanted to see one last time which one I prefer more.

However, after I spent some amount of time looking at Sammy (both) and Sony (x850b) side by side displaying the same content, I noticed that pictures on Samsung TVs look like they are extremely processed. Lots of noise reduction combined with increased sharpness and contrast makes all images look like plastic. I couldn't see any film grain for instance on Samsung, whereas Sony looked it maintained and displayed every bit of the picture correctly.

So they had the remote for Samsung hu9000. I played around a little and tried to turn off all the noise processing crap. I couldn't find a way to turn of pure color or depth enhancer. Still, images looked like plastic compared to Sony. Am I hallucinating or have you guys noticed similar plastic looking images on Samsung TVs?

I have not... on mine I disabled Digital Clean View, MPEG Noise Filter, set sharpness to 0, and set Auto Motion Plus to custom with only blur reduction enabled. The picture looks great. Not sure on disabling PurColor or the depth enhancer as I have the HU8550 which lacks those features.

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post #906 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CBdicX View Post

And here an other Samsung puzzle:

As mentioned i have the 65U8500 and a BD player the BD H6500. The TV comes with a IR remote wire. When i connect this wire to the One connect box, and put the IR sender in front the BD player (its in a cuboard) it will not handle the IR signals from the BD remote control.
The TV is not reacting to the BD remote, only its own TV remote signals, and they will not control the BD player.
I used the setup in the TV for this, and it turnes OFF the BD player so there is communication, but no luck in turning it ON after this step.

Is it possible to use this as a real "IR remote" so i can put the BD player out of sight, or not ?
If possible a step by step how to use this for the BD "out of sight" player.......

Thx
Small IR Repeater from electronics store or internet or you can try plugging the Samsung puck into the TV and not the connect box. The other thing is to make sure the output on the puck is emmiting at the eye on the BDP.

Nothing's Perfect So Stop Expecting It ! Glenee

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post #907 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 05:49 PM
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I'm convinced that the new Sony X900B will be BETTER than both of the Sammy sets.

Sammy has fallen off the wagon and Sony is the new TV leader.
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post #908 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcec View Post

So, finally I saw hu9000 and hu8550 at a local frys. I was set getting either hu8550 or hu9000, just wanted to see one last time which one I prefer more.

However, after I spent some amount of time looking at Sammy (both) and Sony (x850b) side by side displaying the same content, I noticed that pictures on Samsung TVs look like they are extremely processed. Lots of noise reduction combined with increased sharpness and contrast makes all images look like plastic. I couldn't see any film grain for instance on Samsung, whereas Sony looked it maintained and displayed every bit of the picture correctly.

So they had the remote for Samsung hu9000. I played around a little and tried to turn off all the noise processing crap. I couldn't find a way to turn of pure color or depth enhancer. Still, images looked like plastic compared to Sony. Am I hallucinating or have you guys noticed similar plastic looking images on Samsung TVs?

 

I am not sure I would say the 8550 and 9000 look "processed" - but I do know exactly what you mean...

 

I think my take away was that the Samsungs looked more "clear", "crisp" and "bright".

 

But, again, when I asked to see the exact same content on both TVs - I was told that it was not possible to do that.

 

And was told that Samsung makes (yes makes) retailers keep their TVs in "torch mode" and that they cannot take the TVs off that mode.

 

So, again, it was/is impossible for me to do an "apples to apples" comparison.

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post #909 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 06:41 PM
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I got the 55 from Costco last night....I'm having trouble getting Netflix to play anything. I understand that others have had the same problem but haven't Benny able to find a solution. HBOGO works fine. Time is correct. Any ideas?
Thanks!
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post #910 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VAUROS View Post

I'm convinced that the new Sony X900B will be BETTER than both of the Sammy sets.

Sammy has fallen off the wagon and Sony is the new TV leader.

How is Sony the new TV leader? Their top of the line 1080p lineup (850B/950B) for this year has gotten a beating from reviewers since they switched to IPS panels - noting terrible black levels and contrast. I think Sony was the leader in 2012 with their HX850 and HX950, but they aren't really doing much in innovation.. I mean making a TV thicker for better speakers? How many people are going to pay $5k+ and not have some sort of audio system connected (I'm sure there may be a select few but they will be the minority of purchasers). I think Samsung going with the curve is more innovative than Sonys wedge design and the One Connect Box w/future proofing is a huge plus for someone who's paying this much $ for a relatively new technology. The verdict will be out on the 900B, but I don't think it will be a "better" TV.

Audio: Yamaha A-S1000 Stereo Amplifier // Kef LS50 Speakers // Energy EW8 Subwoofer
Video: Samsung 65in HU9000 UHD TV // Oppo BDP-105 Blu-ray player // Apple TV (3G)
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post #911 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 07:15 PM
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I just saw the Sony 900B and Samsung HU9000 and the HU8550 side by side same feed HDMI. The Samsung's looked better to my eye however I sure would not throw

out the Sony it also looked really good its a matter of some ones taste. The biggest turnoff for me on the Sony is how thick it is with the new wedge design.

The Sony is a fine looking set however I look forward to the 950 its prob going to be very good and no wedge lol....

In the meantime I bought a HU659000 and a 78HU9000 but I am waiting for the 950 series for my man cave wink.gif


Tj8xp
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post #912 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

I'll let the cat out of the bag for you YCbCr 4:2:0

No, i wish it was that quick and easy, it's still RGB!

Alright fellas, here is my bypass solution as promised, for full 4k (3840x2160@60Hz)! This is how i figured it out...it took me a week or so to troubleshoot from every possible angle to get it where i got it at first, on pure luck! The following applies only to Nvidia graphic cards as of right now, sorry AMD users!

Originally i had driver version 322.21 and didn't really updated them since all of my games worked just fine in 4k! Then i updated to 370.50 about a week and half ago, after i heard that those drivers were much more optimized, and in return completely lost 4k@60FPS! So long story short, here is how i got it to work again!

I'm using following cables>>>

Monster Video cable that runs @ 27 Gbps from my QUAD TITAN's into the Pioneer Receiver, and from there i'm using DVI cable that goes into the Sammy TV...using HDMI cable from the receiver into the box didn't work for some unknown reason. I tried the same setup with some basic HDMI cables that came with "XBOX One and PS4" and guess what, it didn't work! So cables matter a lot in order for this to work.

Next step is to download drivers 322.21 as those were the only drivers that worked on my end, maybe some of you will have more luck with latest drivers???

After that, open your "Nvidia Control Panel" and under "Adjust desktop size and postion" make sure to tick the box where it says "Override the scalling mode set by games and programs" and that the scalling is done on GPU, and not the display!

Once that's done, we are gonna make a custom resolution of 3840x2160@60Hz and plz copy all of settings & timings from a picture below!



After you make your new res it should look like this in your "NCP"




And, that's it... you can select your new made res and enjoy gaming at 4k@60Hz smile.gif

For any questions plz PM me, and i will try my best to help you out smile.gif

Cheers, Mario
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post #913 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tj8xp View Post

I just saw the Sony 900B and Samsung HU9000 and the HU8550 side by side same feed HDMI. The Samsung's looked better to my eye however I sure would not throw

out the Sony it also looked really good its a matter of some ones taste. The biggest turnoff for me on the Sony is how thick it is with the new wedge design.

The Sony is a fine looking set however I look forward to the 950 its prob going to be very good and no wedge lol....

In the meantime I bought a HU659000 and a 78HU9000 but I am waiting for the 950 series for my man cave wink.gif


Tj8xp

 

Tj8xp, congrats on your purchase!!  I assume you preferred the picture quality on the HU9000 over the HU8550?  I saw the HU9000, HU8550 along with a F9000 and LG's LA9700, which was the only full array locally dimmed TV at local high-end store and thought the HU9000 has slightly better black level.  Was that your take as well.

 

My dealer told me the 78" HU9000 and 75" HU8550 is arriving the week of May 12th.

 

Greg

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post #914 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVAV View Post

The only difference in the 8550 and 9000 - other than the curved screen, that I can find is the clear motion rate.
The 8550 has 1200 and the 9000 has 1440.
Are there any other differences that I am missing?
confused.gif  
I do not think it would count for to much in overall PQ but :

--Processors are different, Quad in the 8550 and Quad+ In the 9000.
--Two image processing are available in the 9000 and not on the 8550.
--The One Connect box is included in the 9000, not in the 8550.

So I have read.........
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post #915 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

I do not think it would count for to much in overall PQ but :

--Processors are different, Quad in the 8550 and Quad+ In the 9000.
--Two image processing are available in the 9000 and not on the 8550.
--The One Connect box is included in the 9000, not in the 8550.

So I have read.........

Plus:
--More powerful processor in 9000 provides improved upconversion capability
--9000 has a camera for Skype and motion control
--9000 has more local dimming zones
--9000 has PurColor
--9000 has Auto Depth Enhancer
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post #916 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterDoubt View Post

I got the 55 from Costco last night....I'm having trouble getting Netflix to play anything. I understand that others have had the same problem but haven't Benny able to find a solution. HBOGO works fine. Time is correct. Any ideas?
Thanks!

My netflix app doesn't work now either. Worked on Friday but only at all now. Just keep telling me there's a problem playing whatever I choose.
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post #917 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by fonz5000 View Post

My netflix app doesn't work now either. Worked on Friday but only at all now. Just keep telling me there's a problem playing whatever I choose.

Mine sometimes works sometimes doesn't, noticed it was usually a network connection issue.. I would re-login my network and password and it would fix the problem. If its not opening (i.e. giving you a error) try a factory reset - that worked for me when none of my apps were working right out of the box.

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post #918 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post


what about DVI, no good as well ? Never heard of DP. Just googled it, looks like a USB plug........

DVI is very limited with bandwidth and displaying the full color gamut.  DP is really the way to go.  Panasonic will release their 4k sets with a DP input.  I wish other manufacturers would follow suit.  The fact that modern AVR's don't have DP is kind of a headache for opting to use DP.  I guess you could always use a DP to HDMI adapter.  Once the adapters become higher speed that would help but by that time HDMI will have adopted 2.0 more completely.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAUROS View Post

I'm convinced that the new Sony X900B will be BETTER than both of the Sammy sets.

Sammy has fallen off the wagon and Sony is the new TV leader.

Sony will have their typical advantage in input lag is my assumption.  I doubt there will be much else though.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgud79 View Post


No, i wish it was that quick and easy, it's still RGB!

Alright fellas, here is my bypass solution as promised, for full 4k (3840x2160@60Hz)! This is how i figured it out...it took me a week or so to troubleshoot from every possible angle to get it where i got it at first, on pure luck! The following applies only to Nvidia graphic cards as of right now, sorry AMD users!

Originally i had driver version 322.21 and didn't really updated them since all of my games worked just fine in 4k! Then i updated to 370.50 about a week and half ago, after i heard that those drivers were much more optimized, and in return completely lost 4k@60FPS! So long story short, here is how i got it to work again!

I'm using following cables>>>

Monster Video cable that runs @ 27 Gbps from my QUAD TITAN's into the Pioneer Receiver, and from there i'm using DVI cable that goes into the Sammy TV...using HDMI cable from the receiver into the box didn't work for some unknown reason. I tried the same setup with some basic HDMI cables that came with "XBOX One and PS4" and guess what, it didn't work! So cables matter a lot in order for this to work.

Next step is to download drivers 322.21 as those were the only drivers that worked on my end, maybe some of you will have more luck with latest drivers???

After that, open your "Nvidia Control Panel" and under "Adjust desktop size and postion" make sure to tick the box where it says "Override the scalling mode set by games and programs" and that the scalling is done on GPU, and not the display!

Once that's done, we are gonna make a custom resolution of 3840x2160@60Hz and plz copy all of settings & timings from a picture below!



After you make your new res it should look like this in your "NCP"




And, that's it... you can select your new made res and enjoy gaming at 4k@60Hz smile.gif

For any questions plz PM me, and i will try my best to help you out smile.gif

Cheers, Mario

The post and pictures are very unclear.  Just to clarify:

 

-You are running an DVI output from your Titans to a DVI/HDMI adapter to HDMI cord to AVR?  If this is correct, you are likely running from the AVR to the Samsung with HDMI?  Which AVR do you have?  Is it 4k/60p compatible?  

 

-How do you know you are getting 60hz?  If you are using a FPS counter like FRAPS this is an inaccurate way of verifying 4k/60p.  My 1440p gaming monitor is 60hz and I get upwards of 80FPS on some games which displays in the upper left hand corner running a program like FRAPS.

 

-DVI is incredilbly limited not only to 2160/33 or 2160/24 but also to color.  If you are using DVI in any way it is unlikely that you are getting the results you might think you are getting.  

 

There was a previous poster who stated that a lower color output would yield 4k/60p.  I don't know how accurate this is, but if this is the way that you are getting your results please explain.  

Anyhow, you have a great setup, what I would probably do if I was you is the following:  When a manufactuer releases a DP to HDMI adapter that supports 4k/60p, I'd purchase the adapter and use it to connect via PC's Titans directly to the Samsung TV.  I'd use a separate HDMI output to connect to the AVR.  I've heard this is a viable option without too much of a headache.   


Theater set-up:  

AVR:  Pioneer VSX-820

Speakers:  5.1 consists of four NHT Classic Two bookshelf and an NHT TwoC center

Sub:  PSA-XV15

HTPC - ridiculously over-the-top, home-built gaming PC that I tinker with daily!

OTA antenna:  Winegard HD7698P

HDTV:  Sharp LC-60SQ15U

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post #919 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

Small IR Repeater from electronics store or internet or you can try plugging the Samsung puck into the TV and not the connect box. The other thing is to make sure the output on the puck is emmiting at the eye on the BDP.

The puck can only be used in the One Connect, not the TV, the TV has no options to connect stuff.
The output is emmiting at the eye, i see 3 IR eyes in the puck so there will be at least one eye in sight of the BD player.
Strange that a very simple thing like an IR extender can let you play around for 3-4 hours with a 5000 euro TV.......... mad.gif

Shure i can use a IR repeater, but this puck comes with the TV so..........
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post #920 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahzari View Post


How is Sony the new TV leader? Their top of the line 1080p lineup (850B/950B) for this year has gotten a beating from reviewers since they switched to IPS panels - noting terrible black levels and contrast. I think Sony was the leader in 2012 with their HX850 and HX950, but they aren't really doing much in innovation.. I mean making a TV thicker for better speakers? How many people are going to pay $5k+ and not have some sort of audio system connected (I'm sure there may be a select few but they will be the minority of purchasers). I think Samsung going with the curve is more innovative than Sonys wedge design and the One Connect Box w/future proofing is a huge plus for someone who's paying this much $ for a relatively new technology. The verdict will be out on the 900B, but I don't think it will be a "better" TV.

 

I keep hearing how much Samsung TVs are "better" because they have the Evolution Kit/Connect Box...

 

Hate to break it to everyone - but the TV is only as good as its panel.

 

And with 10 bit, 12 bit, 18 bit panels eventually coming - your Evolution Kit/Connect Box isn't going to do anything for you in that regard.

 

So, while it is a good idea for right now - it is not the end-all/be-all of making your TV "future-proof"...

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post #921 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tj8xp View Post

I just saw the Sony 900B and Samsung HU9000 and the HU8550 side by side same feed HDMI. The Samsung's looked better to my eye however I sure would not throw

out the Sony it also looked really good its a matter of some ones taste. The biggest turnoff for me on the Sony is how thick it is with the new wedge design.

The Sony is a fine looking set however I look forward to the 950 its prob going to be very good and no wedge lol....

In the meantime I bought a HU659000 and a 78HU9000 but I am waiting for the 950 series for my man cave wink.gif


Tj8xp

 

Where did you see a 900B on display?

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post #922 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pioneer Insider View Post
 

 

Tj8xp, congrats on your purchase!!  I assume you preferred the picture quality on the HU9000 over the HU8550?  I saw the HU9000, HU8550 along with a F9000 and LG's LA9700, which was the only full array locally dimmed TV at local high-end store and thought the HU9000 has slightly better black level.  Was that your take as well.

 

My dealer told me the 78" HU9000 and 75" HU8550 is arriving the week of May 12th.

 

Greg

 

The new curved 9000 is coming out in a 78" size?!

 

:confused:

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post #923 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattopotamus View Post

These are settings early in the thread, and I think they look great

mode: Movie - the most important change.
backlight: 12 - CNET's setting of 7 is way too low unless you are in a dark room. We use lamps at my house. Backlight is the main brightness control

contrast: 95 -
brightness: 45 - leave this alone
sharpness: 20 - CNET setting of 0 Is Way too low, especially for a 4K TV
color: 52 - a slight tweak over 50 that will give you more of a richer plasma TV quality
tint: 50/50 - leave this alone

I discovered the real trick for getting the correct lighting level for your room is to work with gamma and backlight, not brightness. Samsung's default is 45 for all modes, and it's right.

Advanced settings submenu
dynamic contrast: off
flesh tone: zero
RGB only mode: off
color space: custom - there is a submenu for this below.

White balance: see below.
10 P white balance: - you don't need to mess with this.
Gamma: +1 this is an important setting and affects the entire picture, not just contrast.
Expert pattern: off
motion lighting: off
black enhancer: off

Color Space Submenu
I recommend keeping everything at default rather than using the ones from CNET. However, I do not like the cold picture of LEDs as compared to plasma or my old Pioneer elite 98 which had the best picture ever in its day and even for today except for sharpness. Therefore I change the blue setting to this:
blue: red 2, green 2, blue 46. Not drastic changes over 0, 0, 50 but it's warmer.
And change the yellow setting to have less blue than the CNET setting
yellow: red 50, green 50, blue 6 (Katzmaier had blue at 14)

White Balance - use all of the Katzmaier's settings: 25, 24, 22, 23, 24, 26

Picture Option Submenu -
color tone: warm 2 - important, this also gets rid of the cold blue LED effect
digital clean view: off
MPEG noise filter: off
film mode: auto one
auto motion plus: custom. Make sure you change it to custom.
Smart LED: high

Auto Motion Plus Submenu. Numerous sources recommend these to remove motion blur.
blur reduction: 10
judder reduction: 0 yes, zero
LED clear motion: - not much visible difference either way. Leave it on if you increased backlight to the default.

Thanks. I appreciate the help. I did see those settings, but for some reason thought they were specific to the hu9000. I'll give them a shot.
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post #924 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:35 PM
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Thanks. I appreciate the help. I did see those settings, but for some reason thought they were specific to the hu9000. I'll give them a shot.

 

Are these settings for the non-curved 9000?

 

Let us know what you think of them!

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post #925 of 4494 Old 05-03-2014, 11:43 PM
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No, i wish it was that quick and easy, it's still RGB!

Alright fellas, here is my bypass solution as promised, for full 4k (3840x2160@60Hz)! This is how i figured it out...it took me a week or so to troubleshoot from every possible angle to get it where i got it at first, on pure luck! The following applies only to Nvidia graphic cards as of right now, sorry AMD users!
 

I don't think it's actually working :( With those settings, it seems you are running 1920x1080 and downsampling from 4K, otherwise the active pixels box should read 3840x2160.

 

So basically:

 

TV is getting a 1920x1080 signal, GPU is rendering a 3840x2160 image downsampled to 1080p, and then the TV is upscaling that to 4K.

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post #926 of 4494 Old 05-04-2014, 12:44 AM
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I keep hearing how much Samsung TVs are "better" because they have the Evolution Kit/Connect Box...

Hate to break it to everyone - but the TV is only as good as its panel.

And with 10 bit, 12 bit, 18 bit panels eventually coming - your Evolution Kit/Connect Box isn't going to do anything for you in that regard.

So, while it is a good idea for right now - it is not the end-all/be-all of making your TV "future-proof"...

Why do you want a "future proof" tv, i buy a new tv every 3-4 years and i like that smile.gif
And do you realy think you can see the differents between 10-12- 18 bit panels ?
I have the 65U8500 now, picture is just a bit "better" then my 60 inch Sharp Full HD tv, but just..........
Better motion handeling, faster menus, better colors, but also some strange contrast handelings from SMART LED and CINEMA BLACK on movies with black bars and subtitels.
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post #927 of 4494 Old 05-04-2014, 02:33 AM
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Yeah, I read that they tested the input lag at just over 60ms in game mode...not an expert on lag, but I think I read that this would equate to around 4 frames of lag, which a lot of twitch-based shooter gamers say would be too much...not sure if I would notice this amount of lag or not...I'm gaming on either an XBR2 or a B8000 ( both of which are older sets) , so I'll have to check and see what those were listed at input lag-wise and compare...

Other than that one thing, the new 9000-series appears to be my perfect 4K TV. I spent all of last year debating with myself about whether to pull the trigger on an X900A or an F9000 - both of which had things I loved and things that I preferred from the other model...after doing a bunch of research and now reading the first review or two, the input lag on the new 9000 is really the only thing that might keep me from heading to Best Buy on April 6th to place an order...hopefully someone either ends up finding a way (via settings) to further lower this number or a firmware update in the future allows this to be reduced...although, in my case, if I find that my two current gaming TVs are running around the same or higher, than I'm obviously oblivious to this amount of lag and will gladly go ahead and make a purchase! Fingers crossed!!!
I think the lag on the curved display is coming from the non defeatable depth enhancement software.
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And with 10 bit, 12 bit, 18 bit panels eventually coming - your Evolution Kit/Connect Box isn't going to do anything for you in that regard.

I thought so too but the 65X900A already has an 10 bit panel
http://ww.lcdsolar.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx/AUO/T650QVD010/27289#.U2Yi5c7apPF
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post #929 of 4494 Old 05-04-2014, 04:41 AM
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Here are some photos using my iphone camera of my new UN65HU9000 next to my PN64F8500. Very disappointed with the panel of this new HU9000.


 

did you already adjusted the setting, I remember these horrible pictures. I had also a plasma TV and got shocked the first days. Same ****, much to bright backlight etc etc. What I did was going after some good calibration discs and got a better result. check my post in the F9000 topic.

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1500304/official-samsung-4k-un55f9000-un65f9000-and-un85s9-thread/990#post_24537750

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post #930 of 4494 Old 05-04-2014, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by x3sphere View Post

I don't think it's actually working frown.gif  With those settings, it seems you are running 1920x1080 and downsampling from 4K, otherwise the active pixels box should read 3840x2160.

So basically:

TV is getting a 1920x1080 signal, GPU is rendering a 3840x2160 image downsampled to 1080p, and then the TV is upscaling that to 4K.

Active box will not display correct 3840x2160 because timings are very different from what the tv can understand! One way to tell that the image is true 4k is to click on my pic where i posted my settings, and then open the original image, and it will say that it is indeed 3840x2160!

If the image was downsampled to 1080p then it would say "1920x1080"
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