OFFICIAL Samsung 4k HU8550 and HU9000 thread - Page 72 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2131 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 11:37 AM
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New 85 inch UN85HU8550 coming next month for under 10k!!

http://hdguru.com/samsung-85-inch-ul...ed/#more-13905
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post #2132 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 12:18 PM
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Was anybody successful in pairing an iPhone or iPad to the HU9000? I've been trying since I got the set, and I just get an connection error.

The TV is wired to the router (and Airport Extreme latest model) and it gets internet fine.

How do you pair an iOS device to this TV?

Thanks for your help.

Gus
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post #2133 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregLee View Post
Well, I'm glad you tried it my way -- it's been an interesting comparison, though I was no help to you. Part of my adjusting method is to look for optimal settings in all modes, and I've just reviewed my Brightness settings for Dynamic, which is at Brightness = 32, Standard at 29, Natural at 33, Movie at 24. So, they are all pretty low. You've convinced me that I may have suppressed some details in dark scenes.

However, I am not going to turn up Brightness to spoil my excellent black levels, since I think it is so important to have blacks showing up as blacks. And I think my picture looks great.
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Originally Posted by vddobrev View Post
Be careful with your "percieved" excellent black levels. I believe you are suppressing a lot of shadow details by setting brightness that low, you are losing picture information that is inteded to be seen, but it is lost. No amount of other picture settings may compensate for this. The default brightness setting on this set is 45, which is spot on when I cehecked with calibratiion pattern.
Wow those are definitely way too low. You are crushing shadow detail for sure. You must set brightness with a black calibration pattern to get all the shadow detail you can on your display.

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post #2134 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 02:04 PM
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Breaking Bad in 4K now on Neflix!
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post #2135 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konigsberg7 View Post
The WoW disc and even other calibration techniques (xbox one has a tutorial for it and games even have it for brightness)

On the basic brightness on the WoW disc, if you use 26 brightness you cant see any of the objects it wants you to see which correlates with me not seeing things in the movie gravity. I tried the lowest brightness for calibration and it was like 42 at the best.

If you have brightness below 40, there are some movies or tv shows (this is just an example) that show scenes where they want you to see the outline of something so you can make it out for yourself (like some sort of plot twist or something, like "woah its him, the outline of that shadow looks like that dude.")

With your brightness settings (and everything, else -- the gamma way up and I even maxed out the backlight to justify those brightness settings). You wont see it (the example I made up). You will literally miss out on content. There can't be that much of a difference in our panels to where 20 points of brightness works for you and doesn't even come close to working for me.

I already ordered a M series 65 inch which is coming in 2 weeks and for my 2nd tv I might just get a HU8000 since I dont care for 4K.

*Oh wow, never mind on the 8000, the 8000 has been redacted of "Smart LED" aka less dimming zones then last years f8000. The 9000 really is the only TV that has all the dimming zones Samsung can provide.
How do you know that the h8000 has less dimming zones than the f8000
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post #2136 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gusnyc View Post
Was anybody successful in pairing an iPhone or iPad to the HU9000? I've been trying since I got the set, and I just get an connection error.

The TV is wired to the router (and Airport Extreme latest model) and it gets internet fine.

How do you pair an iOS device to this TV?

Thanks for your help.

Gus
There is no way to do it directly over your network but here are the two only ways to do it.

1. Ipad HDMI adaptor and Cable

2. Apple TV HDMI connection to TV with air-play on Apple TV to your Ipad

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post #2137 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al210 View Post
There is no way to do it directly over your network but here are the two only ways to do it.

1. Ipad HDMI adaptor and Cable

2. Apple TV HDMI connection to TV with air-play on Apple TV to your Ipad
I think he means "Smart View" App. You have to download the new Smart View 2 app. The old one gives you connection error.
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post #2138 of 13126 Old 06-17-2014, 09:45 PM
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So I picked up the Disney WOW calibration disc. I've always just adjusted settings by eye, or settings others have posted. This is my first go at a calibration disc. To start, should I use standard or movie mode as a base? There isn't really a setting for backlight adjustment, I currently have it at default setting. Hopefully I can get this calibrated nicely. I'm already loving the tv, a nice calibration will only be better. I have the 8550 btw.
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post #2139 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by doctorwizz View Post
Select the custom preset first.
Thanks, I will try it tonight.

I turned the motion adjustment from standard to clear, that got rid of the soap opera effect (Thank God!!), but people tend to look orange now. Should I just turn down the color?
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post #2140 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 01:19 PM
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Im looking for some feedback asap. Im trying to find a TV. Im looking at the Sony 65w850a, samsung h8000 55", or possibly i could stretch to get the 8550. Is the 8550 the best option? 55 vs 65 is a fairly big different but being in an apartment im sure either one will fit the area well

edit: one of my primary uses will be gaming
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post #2141 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 02:17 PM
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Has anyone set this tv up using RVU with DirecTV?
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post #2142 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VladDracule View Post
Im looking for some feedback asap. Im trying to find a TV. Im looking at the Sony 65w850a, samsung h8000 55", or possibly i could stretch to get the 8550. Is the 8550 the best option? 55 vs 65 is a fairly big different but being in an apartment im sure either one will fit the area well

edit: one of my primary uses will be gaming
If input lag concerns you then the HU8550 isn't great at 59ms in Game mode vs the H8000 at 36ms.
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post #2143 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Riera View Post
Does anyone knows what is the minimum viewing distance for the 65" 8550?
I vote 5 FT, that pretty darn close though

Finally the UN75HU8550 and UN78H9000 show up, what a wait !!
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post #2144 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 03:58 PM
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My 8550 came today and first note it's an HS01 screen which I believe is sharp. I guess in the lineup that is better than the other options short of it being a Samsung screen. All of my cat 7 and 18 gigabyte HDMI cables will be here this evening. My Yamaha RXV 577 comes Friday . Will perform the entire set up over the weekend.

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post #2145 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 04:00 PM
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I also read that there is a Samsung admin diagnostics screen you can get to by hitting a couple commands on the remote to verify that it is in fact HS01

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post #2146 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by baddceo View Post
I also read that there is a Samsung admin diagnostics screen you can get to by hitting a couple commands on the remote to verify that it is in fact HS01

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O.o what is the code?
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post #2147 of 13126 Old 06-18-2014, 07:58 PM
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No guarantee this works on these new tvs and I am simply pasting from here.

http://www.digitalversus.com/panel-s...ar-n15170.html

The manufacturer advises against for safety reasons. Whatever you do, don't touch anything: just read what it says on screen.

Press Info, Menu, Mute and then restart the TV
Select the Advanced menu and press 0 four times in a row

Then TT1270 takes up the baton and explains what the various information means

For example, if you find the following model: 40A1UF0C:

40 — inches, the screen size
A — panel manufacturer (A = Samsung; D = CMO; L = AUO; I = CPT)
1 — frequency (6 = 50/60 Hz; 1 = 100/120 Hz; 2 = 200/240 Hz)
U — panel (A = AntiGlare; T = TN; U = Ultra Clear)
F — resolution (F = Full HD; H = HD; U = UD)
0 — 1st, 2nd panel and so on (1st = 0; 2nd = 1 ...)
C — backlight unit (C = CCFL; L = LED; E = Edge LED)

One last method works on older Samsung models: a single letter on the label at the back of the screen, next to the model number. This code follows the same basic pattern as used on monitors for a few years now, with a few extra details. It's been updated by AVForums:

A = AU Optronics (AUO) A-MVA
B = Chi Lin Technology (CLT)
C = Chi Mei Optoelectronics (CMO)
I = LG Display IPS (LGD)
P = Chunghwa Picture Tubes (CPT)
S = Samsung S-PVA (S-LCD)
H = Samsung S-PVA (3D)
Q = IPS Alpha Technology LTD (Hitachi & Panasonic) IPS Alpha/IPS Pro

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post #2148 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VladDracule View Post
Im looking for some feedback asap. Im trying to find a TV. Im looking at the Sony 65w850a, samsung h8000 55", or possibly i could stretch to get the 8550. Is the 8550 the best option? 55 vs 65 is a fairly big different but being in an apartment im sure either one will fit the area well

edit: one of my primary uses will be gaming
The 8550 also has a 60 inch. I am positive about this because I own one :-)
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post #2149 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddceo View Post
My 8550 came today and first note it's an HS01 screen which I believe is sharp. I guess in the lineup that is better than the other options short of it being a Samsung screen. All of my cat 7 and 18 gigabyte HDMI cables will be here this evening. My Yamaha RXV 577 comes Friday . Will perform the entire set up over the weekend.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
"cat 7 and 18 gigabyte HDMI"? I was under the impression that all HDMI were created equal and it was a waste of money to buy more expensive ones....Am I wrong?
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post #2150 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 07:48 AM
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HDMI 2.0 is the standard required to pass 4K. I am upgrading everything so that I have no varying degrees of throughput. Cat7 is actually recommended by samsung to carry enough bandwidth to watch 4k streaming. Switching all of the cables in and out of my routers and all of my home theatre equipment. My cables are quite old and it was a good excuse to replace them all.

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post #2151 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 07:54 AM
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can you link me to a cat7 cable? You can easily achieve gigabit ethernet speeds using cat5e cables. You only need about 20 Mbps throughput from your ISP to stream 4K. You get no benefit from cat7 cables, which I haven't actually even heard of yet.

Ditto with new hdmi cables. The HDMI 2.0 spec is in the hardware, not the cabling. hdmi is digital, so it either works or it doesn't. You aren't going to increase the PQ by buying monster cables. quality, high speed cables make sense when you are running a longer distance, and even then a ~$10 monoprice high-speed hdmi cable will do.
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post #2152 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 08:06 AM
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[quote=Bob_Houston;25001138]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAZMOJ View Post


I had a similar problem with my Harmony remote and using an Xbox 360 through an AVR. Everything turns on correctly, the Xbox is displayed - and then when the TV is fully running, it sends something to the AVR over the HDMI connection (CEC/ARC enabled) and the audio on the receiver is automatically switched back to the TV, and the display of the Xbox 360 is lost.


How to correct this turned out to be simple. For the Harmony remote, set the Power On delay for the RECEIVER to 20 seconds. This tells the remote to turn on the receiver and wait 20 seconds before sending the "Set Source to Xbox 360" command. Now, everything turns on correctly, the Xbox is displayed initially, the receiver switches to TV for a few seconds - and then back to the Xbox. And I'm good-to-go.


If you disabled CEC and ARC and use the digital optical output for audio - that will eliminate this issue - and from all of my tests (so far), it appears the optical output ends up with the same audio as the HDMI ARC output.



You are absolutely right! I reprogrammed my Harmony remote to include the 20 second delay and it is gre4at. I can now return the optical cable I purchased


Thank YOU!
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post #2153 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 08:09 AM
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[QUOTE=baddceo;25089906]HDMI 2.0 is the standard required to pass 4K. I am upgrading everything so that I have no varying degrees of throughput. Cat7 is actually recommended by samsung to carry enough bandwidth to watch 4k streaming. Switching all of the cables in and out of my routers and all of my home theatre equipment. My cables are quite old and it was a good excuse to replace them all.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk[/QUO

Oh, ok I got it. I guess I can wait till you can get 4k on Blu-Ray or via the cable company before switching. Right now it's all from Netflix or the net which do not need HDMI.
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post #2154 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 08:30 AM
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Monoprice has cat 7 cables and as far as I'm concerned the difference in cost was nominal so I might as well buy the higher capacity cables through out to make the environment all the same.

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post #2155 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by NickB123 View Post
"cat 7 and 18 gigabyte HDMI"? I was under the impression that all HDMI were created equal and it was a waste of money to buy more expensive ones....Am I wrong?
No, you're not wrong. There are some HDMI cables that are certified for the ~18Gbit/sec that HDMI 2.0 allows. However, unless you're have a UHD source that's doing 60FPS with a >8bit color depth or isn't using YCbCr 4:2:0 (8-bit) you're not into the range that might need that extra bandwidth. Monoprice sells 18Gbit/sec HDMI cables for reasonable prices if you really want one. On the Ethernet side, CAT5e can do gigabit. CAT6 or CAT7 won't do anything for you although they may not cost much more than a CAT5e cable.
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post #2156 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 11:00 AM
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I have several old hdmi 1.4 cables from Monoprice.

Had no problems with 4K output from Oppo player through AVR to TV.

Sammy 4k UN65HU9000 CURVED - Calman5 Calibrated" ----------- Oppo 103D for Blu Ray & SACD & DVD-A
Marantz SR6009 AVR & Rogue Audio Atlas Tube Amp
Vienna Acoustics Mozart Grand SE--B&W HTM62 Center with Axiom QS4 surrounds ---------- SVS PB-1000 SUBWOOFER
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post #2157 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 11:10 AM
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I had to get new cables anyway so I went ahead and prepared for future use my receiver is capable of passing 4:2:2 @ 60 so i wanted everything to be compatible

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post #2158 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
No, you're not wrong. There are some HDMI cables that are certified for the ~18Gbit/sec that HDMI 2.0 allows. However, unless you're have a UHD source that's doing 60FPS with a >8bit color depth or isn't using YCbCr 4:2:0 (8-bit) you're not into the range that might need that extra bandwidth. Monoprice sells 18Gbit/sec HDMI cables for reasonable prices if you really want one. On the Ethernet side, CAT5e can do gigabit. CAT6 or CAT7 won't do anything for you although they may not cost much more than a CAT5e cable.
I think that also depends on how much traffic you are sending over the cables from competing resources. Single source would be no problem and multiple sources will probably be no problem but there's always a chance signal degradation based on the volume of traffic.

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post #2159 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by baddceo View Post
I think that also depends on how much traffic you are sending over the cables from competing resources. Single source would be no problem and multiple sources will probably be no problem but there's always a chance signal degradation based on the volume of traffic.
Presumably you're talking about Ethernet. If the two endpoints are communicated at 1Gbit/sec the cable doesn't make any difference. The speed and latency of the traffic over that gigabit link is the same whether you're using a CAT5e, CAT6, or CAT7 cable. The traffic is irrelevant to the stability of the link speed.
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post #2160 of 13126 Old 06-19-2014, 12:19 PM
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Hi All, never posted this long before here at the forum. I've been reading this particular thread since I've had the 55HU9000F (Canadian version).
Unfortunately, it seems the Canadian owners are not getting the free UHD video pack as a promotion...freebies are always good in my book. Asked Samsung support and both agents referred me to the store where I purchased the TV from. It's not an official Samsung promotion - not mentioned on Samsung Canada website at all.


Had this TV for about a week now, what a gorgeous TV...the slim bezel and curve just really great design. I have the TS01 panel as well...read from 2 posts that this is a good sign...considering Samsung also uses panels from other MFGs. Can the experts here agree with that comment?
Originally was going with 65HU8550, but this HU9000 is a right decision. Lost 10" of real estate but for my living room size, the 55" is perfect. I usually watch from 8-9 feet and 4K contents are just really beautiful.
Watching 4K on this TV (Baraka, timelapse, 4K Netflix & youtube contents are just so amazing). I'm using provider's wifi modem (Hitron CGN3) to stream 4K contents from netflix & youtube, no issue...everything loaded quickly and smoothly. No lags during playback at all. I'm going to try streaming wirelessly with the asus RT-N56U.
For other 4K contents, I'm using plex media server on my desktop and stream wirelessly to the TV.
Bluray movies just look so good up converted to the TV - better than regular 1080p TV.
720p or 1080i contents (cable box source) look degraded than on 1080p panel as expected, but when watching from >12' they look very good.


Currently, all TV settings are still Samsung default.
I've seen a few users posted their settings for HU8550, but rarely I see the HU9000 ones...just a few little nuggets - no complete settings. Can someone kindly posted their preferred settings or provided the link to user(s) posts. Thanks everyone.
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