Official 2014 Vizio Mxxx-Bx Series owners thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 12:33 AM
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anyone try using the 32" M322I-B1 with a desktop computer? and testing it for 4:4:4 chroma subsampling. i'm looking to getting a 32" - 39" 1080p tv for home game console and PC. computer monitors just don't display quality picture for home game consoles like TVs do with image features imo or am i completely wrong?

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post #722 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 07:38 AM
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Putting it down on a bedspread did what trick?

Did you end up having washer screws on back and the other screws on the bottom? I ended up doing that.

Also I was on live chat with them for 30 minutes and they told me washers go on bottom. When I spoke to them again telling them that the washer screws don't work on the bottom that couldn't help and said they will have support contact me later.

Possible we got sent wrong set of screws since it doesn't match the picture and both are the same length.
I guess I wasn't clear enough. Here's more detailed info in case anyone else runs into this too.

We called support too thinking the screws included were wrong. Trying to assemble it while it was standing straight up did not work. Tried it several times. Attach the base to the neck using the screws with no washers. Lay the set on the bed or a table with a blanket screen down. Look at the page opposite the one showing the screws in the paper manual. It says to lay it screen down on a flat surface like a table with a blanket to prevent scratches. I liked the idea of using the side of the bed better than a table. Laid it near the edge of the bed so the base was able to hang down. When we did that, we were able to easily attach the screws with the washers to the back of the set. For what ever reason, it won't work while standing. The screws with the washers seem too short and didn't grab when screwing them in. It was easily attached with the screws with the washers once we laid it face down.

From page four of PDF manual (with a picture):
1. It is recommended that two people take part in the base
installation.

Remove any plastic wrapping from the TV and stand.

Place the TV screen-down on a clean, flat surface. To prevent
scratches or damage to the screen, place the TV on a soft
surface, such as carpet, rug, or blanket.
http://store.vizio.com/documents/dow...UM_M602iB3.pdf

I have two cats so I used a clean, soft throw on top of the bedspread to prevent possible cat hair getting on the screen. In my case it really is a two person job. My neighbor was great and helped out.

Edit: The screws with the washers protrude past the rubber pads if attached to the base and will scratch the surface of a console for example. That was when we realized they do not go there.

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post #723 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtai View Post
I picked up an M602i from my local Costco yesterday and so far am quite pleased.  Prior to this I've been living with a 50" Sony SXRD rear projection set that developed the infamous green blob on the original optical block as well as the replacement block.  Needless to say, this is a nice upgrade.  However, this is my first LCD, so I'm not sure what is normal and what is not, so I'm wondering if any other owners of this set can see what looks to be a faint shadow of the LED array on large areas of solid color.
 
Here's a picture of what I see with the 50% grayscale test screen:
 

 
I spent my first few hours admiring the black levels and watching dark movies like Sin City, so I didn't notice this.  But now that I've seen it, I can't unsee it.  Sort of like the first time I saw rainbows on a DLP.
 
So before I box it up and take it back to Costco for a replacement, I'm wondering if this is typical for this set or do I actually have a defective unit?
I went ahead and exchanged my set for a new one a few days ago at Costco. The new one is subjectively better but the LED array is still visible. The difference with the new set is that the darker areas blend into contiguous "streaks" instead of individual large spots.

Here's a pic of the new set at 50% grayscale:



Now that I've had two different sets, I think this is probably typical for this model. Subjectively, the streaks are less objectionable, since you don't really notice them when scenes pan horizontally. You can still see them during vertical panning but on most content it's not noticeable. With the other set, panning in any direction on light colored backgrounds (such as scenes with large areas of light blue sky) would make the grid/checkerboard pattern pop out quite prominently.

I'm surprised others haven't noticed this issue since it triggers a fairly obvious "dirty screen effect" during camera pans. My first set looked really bad when watching hockey, as the grid pattern would make the ice look blotchy whenever the camera panned across the ice.

I'm probably going to keep this one, since it looks fantastic otherwise, and I have to keep in mind that this is not supposed to be a premium, no-compromises set. However, I'd recommend for anyone that can see the individual LEDs on a grayscale screen to swap their set for a new one, since it seems that not all sets exhibit that problem.
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post #724 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by docopfw View Post
anyone try using the 32" M322I-B1 with a desktop computer? and testing it for 4:4:4 chroma subsampling. i'm looking to getting a 32" - 39" 1080p tv for home game console and PC. computer monitors just don't display quality picture for home game consoles like TVs do with image features imo or am i completely wrong?
I picked up the 32'' at my local Costco the other day and i do use it for my computer monitor. It does run 4:4:4, input lag is very low, Overall PQ is pretty good. Slight dimming in the corners. The set does not natively accept 120hz but you can force it in Nvidia control panel or the AMD equivalent. I have been running at 120hz with no stuttering or flickering. The set does automatically deny access to some picture features if you force it to run higher than 60hz with your PC. Unfortunately i do not own a current gen console so i cannot comment on console performance. I would suspect it couldn't be much worse. For anyone interested it is selling for 299.99 for the 32'' and 499.99 for the 42'' at Costco both in store and online. Both of which are $30 under MSRP.
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post #725 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtai View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtai View Post
I picked up an M602i from my local Costco yesterday and so far am quite pleased.  Prior to this I've been living with a 50" Sony SXRD rear projection set that developed the infamous green blob on the original optical block as well as the replacement block.  Needless to say, this is a nice upgrade.  However, this is my first LCD, so I'm not sure what is normal and what is not, so I'm wondering if any other owners of this set can see what looks to be a faint shadow of the LED array on large areas of solid color.
 
Here's a picture of what I see with the 50% grayscale test screen:
 

 
I spent my first few hours admiring the black levels and watching dark movies like Sin City, so I didn't notice this.  But now that I've seen it, I can't unsee it.  Sort of like the first time I saw rainbows on a DLP.
 
So before I box it up and take it back to Costco for a replacement, I'm wondering if this is typical for this set or do I actually have a defective unit?
I went ahead and exchanged my set for a new one a few days ago at Costco. The new one is subjectively better but the LED array is still visible. The difference with the new set is that the darker areas blend into contiguous "streaks" instead of individual large spots.

Here's a pic of the new set at 50% grayscale:



Now that I've had two different sets, I think this is probably typical for this model. Subjectively, the streaks are less objectionable, since you don't really notice them when scenes pan horizontally. You can still see them during vertical panning but on most content it's not noticeable. With the other set, panning in any direction on light colored backgrounds (such as scenes with large areas of light blue sky) would make the grid/checkerboard pattern pop out quite prominently.

I'm surprised others haven't noticed this issue since it triggers a fairly obvious "dirty screen effect" during camera pans. My first set looked really bad when watching hockey, as the grid pattern would make the ice look blotchy whenever the camera panned across the ice.

I'm probably going to keep this one, since it looks fantastic otherwise, and I have to keep in mind that this is not supposed to be a premium, no-compromises set. However, I'd recommend for anyone that can see the individual LEDs on a grayscale screen to swap their set for a new one, since it seems that not all sets exhibit that problem.
Glad to see the replacement unit is better. I guess there are some "issues" in the manufacturing process causing some sets to have that issue.
I know that whenever a new product comes out, there usually seems to be issues with the first batch or two, then get better made after a few months. So maybe if a person waits a few months for new stock to come in, they might have less of an issue.
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post #726 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surjical View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by docopfw View Post
anyone try using the 32" M322I-B1 with a desktop computer? and testing it for 4:4:4 chroma subsampling. i'm looking to getting a 32" - 39" 1080p tv for home game console and PC. computer monitors just don't display quality picture for home game consoles like TVs do with image features imo or am i completely wrong?
I picked up the 32'' at my local Costco the other day and i do use it for my computer monitor. It does run 4:4:4, input lag is very low, Overall PQ is pretty good. Slight dimming in the corners. The set does not natively accept 120hz but you can force it in Nvidia control panel or the AMD equivalent. I have been running at 120hz with no stuttering or flickering. The set does automatically deny access to some picture features if you force it to run higher than 60hz with your PC. Unfortunately i do not own a current gen console so i cannot comment on console performance. I would suspect it couldn't be much worse. For anyone interested it is selling for 299.99 for the 32'' and 499.99 for the 42'' at Costco both in store and online. Both of which are $30 under MSRP.
Glad to hear this M series is 4:4:4 chroma.
For those of you using it only as a PC monitor, how far are you from the screen?
I have a 23" NEC CRT that I've been using for about 8 years, but sit withing a couple feet. My concern is that with using a 32", I'd have to sit back further to see the full image and to lessen seeing the LCD pixels.
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post #727 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtai View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtai View Post
I picked up an M602i from my local Costco yesterday and so far am quite pleased.  Prior to this I've been living with a 50" Sony SXRD rear projection set that developed the infamous green blob on the original optical block as well as the replacement block.  Needless to say, this is a nice upgrade.  However, this is my first LCD, so I'm not sure what is normal and what is not, so I'm wondering if any other owners of this set can see what looks to be a faint shadow of the LED array on large areas of solid color.
 
Here's a picture of what I see with the 50% grayscale test screen:
 

 
I spent my first few hours admiring the black levels and watching dark movies like Sin City, so I didn't notice this.  But now that I've seen it, I can't unsee it.  Sort of like the first time I saw rainbows on a DLP.
 
So before I box it up and take it back to Costco for a replacement, I'm wondering if this is typical for this set or do I actually have a defective unit?
I went ahead and exchanged my set for a new one a few days ago at Costco. The new one is subjectively better but the LED array is still visible. The difference with the new set is that the darker areas blend into contiguous "streaks" instead of individual large spots.

Here's a pic of the new set at 50% grayscale:



Now that I've had two different sets, I think this is probably typical for this model. Subjectively, the streaks are less objectionable, since you don't really notice them when scenes pan horizontally. You can still see them during vertical panning but on most content it's not noticeable. With the other set, panning in any direction on light colored backgrounds (such as scenes with large areas of light blue sky) would make the grid/checkerboard pattern pop out quite prominently.

I'm surprised others haven't noticed this issue since it triggers a fairly obvious "dirty screen effect" during camera pans. My first set looked really bad when watching hockey, as the grid pattern would make the ice look blotchy whenever the camera panned across the ice.

I'm probably going to keep this one, since it looks fantastic otherwise, and I have to keep in mind that this is not supposed to be a premium, no-compromises set. However, I'd recommend for anyone that can see the individual LEDs on a grayscale screen to swap their set for a new one, since it seems that not all sets exhibit that problem.
Glad to see the replacement unit is better. I guess there are some "issues" in the manufacturing process causing some sets to have that issue.
I know that whenever a new product comes out, there usually seems to be issues with the first batch or two, then get better made after a few months. So maybe if a person waits a few months for new stock to come in, they might have less of an issue.
I don't think this is an issue per say, rather a design/cost consideration. With such few LEDs I think this will always be there. Some panels may be slightly better than others but I'm thinking there aren't any panels without this issue.
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post #728 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 06:24 PM
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Finally got my M422i set up today and have to say after using the mentioned calibration details I am very impressed with this TV. However, my remote seems to keep losing it's functionality and I am having to turn the TV power off then on again for it to work...any suggestions?
Also, the amazon instant video app isn't working and just states a message ....
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post #729 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 06:26 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post
For those of you using it only as a PC monitor, how far are you from the screen?
I have a 23" NEC CRT that I've been using for about 8 years, but sit withing a couple feet. My concern is that with using a 32", I'd have to sit back further to see the full image and to lessen seeing the LCD pixels.
I bought a 1080 27" Asus computer monitor, and it was too big for a 1080 monitor sitting 2' away - the pixels were way too visible. I later got a 27" 1440 Crossover monitor and that is really nice. The 1080 27" monitor looks good in the 3' to 4' range. A 32" 2160 (4k) monitor would be sweet, but that will have to wait a couple of years.

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post #730 of 2601 Old 06-15-2014, 09:26 PM
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Lip Sync issue

Just got the Vizio M602i-B3. Watching HBOGO on PS3 via Hdmi is having lip sync issues. Anyone else have this problem? My audio is digital optical out to Vizio 5.1 soundbar.
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post #731 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtai View Post
Now that I've had two different sets, I think this is probably typical for this model. Subjectively, the streaks are less objectionable, since you don't really notice them when scenes pan horizontally. You can still see them during vertical panning but on most content it's not noticeable. With the other set, panning in any direction on light colored backgrounds (such as scenes with large areas of light blue sky) would make the grid/checkerboard pattern pop out quite prominently.

I'm surprised others haven't noticed this issue since it triggers a fairly obvious "dirty screen effect" during camera pans. My first set looked really bad when watching hockey, as the grid pattern would make the ice look blotchy whenever the camera panned across the ice.
It seems like most LED's have some sort of backlight artifacts; just look at Panasonic X800U owners thread and that TV costs four times as much. I am glad that your second one is better.
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post #732 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surjical View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by docopfw View Post
anyone try using the 32" M322I-B1 with a desktop computer? and testing it for 4:4:4 chroma subsampling. i'm looking to getting a 32" - 39" 1080p tv for home game console and PC. computer monitors just don't display quality picture for home game consoles like TVs do with image features imo or am i completely wrong?
I picked up the 32'' at my local Costco the other day and i do use it for my computer monitor. It does run 4:4:4, input lag is very low, Overall PQ is pretty good. Slight dimming in the corners. The set does not natively accept 120hz but you can force it in Nvidia control panel or the AMD equivalent. I have been running at 120hz with no stuttering or flickering. The set does automatically deny access to some picture features if you force it to run higher than 60hz with your PC. Unfortunately i do not own a current gen console so i cannot comment on console performance. I would suspect it couldn't be much worse. For anyone interested it is selling for 299.99 for the 32'' and 499.99 for the 42'' at Costco both in store and online. Both of which are $30 under MSRP.
that's great about the chroma subsampling. so did you get the 120hz tested and validated via the tests at the blur busters site? no problems with how the text is displayed? the local active led zones have no trouble keeping up at all with true 120hz in pc games?
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post #733 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 08:27 AM
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I thought I would share the following just in case any of you folks are in my position and wondering what kind of picture quality change you will see if you are upgrading from a smaller, well reviewed (at the time), plasma that is now 7-8 years old.

I really want to go BIG (as in I'm waiting for the 70" M or maybe even the 70" P), but I didn't want to lose any ground in overall PQ.

So I tweeted this question at David Katzmaier (TV review guru at CNET) last week:

“Great M-Series review! Would the Picture Quality on a 60-70" 2014 Vizio E/M Series likely meet or exceed the Picture Quality of a 2006 Panny (TH42PX60U)”

David replied back quickly with the following:

“Thanks! As the owner of a 2005 Panny, I can say with confidence: yes. As long as you're not watching from extreme off-angle.”

PSN ID: Kranin

Last edited by Drlink; 06-16-2014 at 08:49 AM.
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post #734 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 01:00 PM
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Vizio M602i-B3 Picture Settings

Hey all,

FYI, the link below was mentioned earlier by someone in this thread. I definitely recommend using these settings if you're watching films. It definitely gets rid of the soap opera effect.

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_10...ture-settings/

---Picture settings menu---
Picture Mode: Custom 1
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 45
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 64
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--Advanced Picture submenu---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Smooth Motion Effect: Off
Motion Blur Reduction: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Wide: Normal

---Professional Picture submenu---
Color Tuner:
Red [Hue, Saturation, Brightness]: -50, -25, -45
Green: 10, 0, -10
Blue: -8, 0, -12
Cyan: 3, 0, -4
Magenta: 5, 0, -14
Yellow: 0, -16, 0

Red offset: 0
Red gain: -22
Green offset: 3
Green Gain: -3
Blue offset: -5
Blue gain: 0

11-point white balance:
[Gain amounts for red, green and blue]
5%: 10, -1, 1
10%: 16, 8, 39
20%: 3, 1, 24
30%: -8, -6, -7
40%: -24, -23, -6
50%: -48, -39, -31
60%: -50, -50, -36
70%: -50, -50, -34
80%: -50, -50, -39
90%: -42, -45, -50
100%: 0, -10, 0
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post #735 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 01:49 PM
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The only setting that creates the Soap Opera Effect is Smooth Motion Effect so simply turn it Off if you do not like it. All of the other advanced and pro settings are just as likely to make your picture worse as they are better without a meter and setting yourself.
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post #736 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 05:12 PM
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The only setting that creates the Soap Opera Effect is Smooth Motion Effect so simply turn it Off if you do not like it. All of the other advanced and pro settings are just as likely to make your picture worse as they are better without a meter and setting yourself.
So what is the difference between Smooth Motion Effect and Motion Blur Reduction (MBR)?
Both were mentioned in the CNET review, saying only if both are turned on will you get 1080 lines of motion resolution.

"In terms of maximum motion resolution the M outperformed the E-Series only if smoothing is engaged. Doing so, and toggling on the Motion Blur Reduction (MBR) switch, achieved excellent motion resolution (1080 lines); toggling MBR off cut that number down to 600 lines. Disabling smoothing cut it down even further, to 300 lines. As usual blurring was tough to detect in program material, and personally I'd rather have poor motion resolution than smoothing.

Unlike on the E-Series, I didn't detect any flicker when I engaged MBR on the M-Series. Unfortunately, this setting alone didn't improve motion resolution at all. With smoothing off and MBR on, the TV still registered 300 lines and blur-intense test footage I had on hand, for example the ropes of a moving hammock or the stripes on the shirt of a swinging girl, didn't look any different. For my calibration I elected to turn off MBR because it truncated light output significantly."

Last edited by FAUguy; 06-16-2014 at 05:16 PM.
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post #737 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 05:25 PM
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that's great about the chroma subsampling. so did you get the 120hz tested and validated via the tests at the blur busters site? no problems with how the text is displayed? the local active led zones have no trouble keeping up at all with true 120hz in pc games?
Unfortunately all advanced picture features are unavailable when running at 120hz with the exception of motion blur reduction. Text looks pretty good. I've played many games like Watch Dogs, Wildstar, APB, and Batman to name a few. All of which look great. If i had to nit pick at one thing its the dim corners. Sadly once you see it them they are noticeable most of the time.
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post #738 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post
So what is the difference between Smooth Motion Effect and Motion Blur Reduction (MBR)?
Both were mentioned in the CNET review, saying only if both are turned on will you get 1080 lines of motion resolution.

"In terms of maximum motion resolution the M outperformed the E-Series only if smoothing is engaged. Doing so, and toggling on the Motion Blur Reduction (MBR) switch, achieved excellent motion resolution (1080 lines); toggling MBR off cut that number down to 600 lines. Disabling smoothing cut it down even further, to 300 lines. As usual blurring was tough to detect in program material, and personally I'd rather have poor motion resolution than smoothing.

Unlike on the E-Series, I didn't detect any flicker when I engaged MBR on the M-Series. Unfortunately, this setting alone didn't improve motion resolution at all. With smoothing off and MBR on, the TV still registered 300 lines and blur-intense test footage I had on hand, for example the ropes of a moving hammock or the stripes on the shirt of a swinging girl, didn't look any different. For my calibration I elected to turn off MBR because it truncated light output significantly."
For me with MBR set to on it gives a CRT like effect to the image (a rapid flicker which i do not like).
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post #739 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 05:34 PM
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The only setting that creates the Soap Opera Effect is Smooth Motion Effect so simply turn it Off if you do not like it. All of the other advanced and pro settings are just as likely to make your picture worse as they are better without a meter and setting yourself.
So what is the difference between Smooth Motion Effect and Motion Blur Reduction (MBR)?
Both were mentioned in the CNET review, saying only if both are turned on will you get 1080 lines of motion resolution.

"In terms of maximum motion resolution the M outperformed the E-Series only if smoothing is engaged. Doing so, and toggling on the Motion Blur Reduction (MBR) switch, achieved excellent motion resolution (1080 lines); toggling MBR off cut that number down to 600 lines. Disabling smoothing cut it down even further, to 300 lines. As usual blurring was tough to detect in program material, and personally I'd rather have poor motion resolution than smoothing.

Unlike on the E-Series, I didn't detect any flicker when I engaged MBR on the M-Series. Unfortunately, this setting alone didn't improve motion resolution at all. With smoothing off and MBR on, the TV still registered 300 lines and blur-intense test footage I had on hand, for example the ropes of a moving hammock or the stripes on the shirt of a swinging girl, didn't look any different. For my calibration I elected to turn off MBR because it truncated light output significantly."
MBR is the scanning backlight. Smooth Motion is frame interpolation.
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post #740 of 2601 Old 06-16-2014, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by primetimeguy View Post
MBR is the scanning backlight. Smooth Motion is frame interpolation.

Correct. To add a bit of color:


Smooth Motion introduces the 'Soap Opera Effect' by interpolating additional frames in order to achieve a higher frame-rate. 60fps sports will be motion-interpolated to 120fps, 24fps film will be motion-interpolated to higher frame-rates.


Motion Blur Reduction uses the scanning backlight to strobe so that pixel ON time (persistence) is reduced without modifying the frame rate.


The two techniques can be combined to result in the best motion handling (though with the introduction of SOE because of the use of Smooth Motion).
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post #741 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 12:05 AM
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Vizio M602i-B3 Remote Control

Some gripes about the remote control:

Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I don't know if it's because it's not sensing the sensor or if there is a lag. I think it's both. Most of the time it's lag. If I'm typing something with the keypad, halfway through a word, the tv would freeze for a while and then it would automatically finish what I had typed many seconds later when it unfreezes.

Just before, the tv freaked out on me. I was in Hulu. I hit the V button to pop up the app ticker list and I chose Youtube. It then tried to load youtube and blacked out to a no signal screen. I hit the V again, and did the same. This time the response was very delayed. And it again tried to load youtube but didn't work. And then my remote wouldn't respond at all and the TV was acting on it's own. and then it went black and the tv was still on. I had no way to turn off the TV. It has no physical power buttons on the TV, or at least not that I know of. I had to manually unplug it to turn it off. And now it's working again.

For a TV that has NO physical buttons on the TV, I would think it would have a much better remote. If your remote breaks or disappears, you are f#$#ked!!!
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post #742 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drameddie View Post
Some gripes about the remote control:

Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I don't know if it's because it's not sensing the sensor or if there is a lag. I think it's both. Most of the time it's lag. If I'm typing something with the keypad, halfway through a word, the tv would freeze for a while and then it would automatically finish what I had typed many seconds later when it unfreezes.

Just before, the tv freaked out on me. I was in Hulu. I hit the V button to pop up the app ticker list and I chose Youtube. It then tried to load youtube and blacked out to a no signal screen. I hit the V again, and did the same. This time the response was very delayed. And it again tried to load youtube but didn't work. And then my remote wouldn't respond at all and the TV was acting on it's own. and then it went black and the tv was still on. I had no way to turn off the TV. It has no physical power buttons on the TV, or at least not that I know of. I had to manually unplug it to turn it off. And now it's working again.

For a TV that has NO physical buttons on the TV, I would think it would have a much better remote. If your remote breaks or disappears, you are f#$#ked!!!
The M602i-3b has a power button on the lower left rear when you reach around the back

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk
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post #743 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
Correct. To add a bit of color:


Smooth Motion introduces the 'Soap Opera Effect' by interpolating additional frames in order to achieve a higher frame-rate. 60fps sports will be motion-interpolated to 120fps, 24fps film will be motion-interpolated to higher frame-rates.


Motion Blur Reduction uses the scanning backlight to strobe so that pixel ON time (persistence) is reduced without modifying the frame rate.


The two techniques can be combined to result in the best motion handling (though with the introduction of SOE because of the use of Smooth Motion).
So what's the best combination? As in off/on, low, medium, high for each setting? I have no calibration tools so I am not going to use the Cnet settings. I plan on getting a WOW disk maybe this weekend.
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post #744 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MoInSTL View Post
So what's the best combination? As in off/on, low, medium, high for each setting? I have no calibration tools so I am not going to use the Cnet settings. I plan on getting a WOW disk maybe this weekend.
"Best Combination" is hard to conclude because everyone has different preferences and opinions on what looks best.

Why not try a couple of different settings and see what pleases your eyes?
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post #745 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MoInSTL View Post
So what's the best combination? As in off/on, low, medium, high for each setting? I have no calibration tools so I am not going to use the Cnet settings. I plan on getting a WOW disk maybe this weekend.

You don't need any calibration tools to use the CNet settings. They can be entered using the remote.


If you wish to modify them, a calibration tool and a meter may be your best choice, if you feel your eyes are insufficient.


If you take a screen photo of your existing settings, you can use that to get back to where you were, if the CNet settings don't please you.
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post #746 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 08:53 AM
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Professional settings

On the 602i-B3 I have noticed that changing the color tuner settings on one custom screen changes them on other screens, whereas the 11 point white balance settings do not change. Has anyone else noticed this? I'm trying to compare different custom settings, so I'm wondering when those settings are affected by changes and when they aren't.

Also, I wasn't happy with the CNET settings so I kept the 11 point white balance settings but eliminated the color tuner setting sand just used -15 for green offset and -25 for green gain, and then -10 for the Tint setting. Any thoughts on keeping one part of the CNET settings while not using the othesr? Am I better off wiping out the white balance settings as well if I'm not going to use the CNET settings for the color tuner settings?
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post #747 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 11:21 AM
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Personally, I wouldn't change any of the Professional settings without having a meter. Unless you want to just copy Cnet's full set to give it a try. Trying to improve it may be impossible without a meter.

I made a new preset with their basic settings. So far I like it, but I'm curious on others' opinions of why the contrast is so low (64). My personal preset was pretty close to Calibrated Dark. I had the contrast set at 80. I can't really tell which is better in most content so I'm giving it a few days to gel. Higher contrast should be better right, as long as the whites aren't crushed? On the Disney WOW patterns I can get up to 80 before the 1% white disappears.
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post #748 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by xkalibur View Post
Personally, I wouldn't change any of the Professional settings without having a meter. Unless you want to just copy Cnet's full set to give it a try. Trying to improve it may be impossible without a meter.

I made a new preset with their basic settings. So far I like it, but I'm curious on others' opinions of why the contrast is so low (64). My personal preset was pretty close to Calibrated Dark. I had the contrast set at 80. I can't really tell which is better in most content so I'm giving it a few days to gel. Higher contrast should be better right, as long as the whites aren't crushed? On the Disney WOW patterns I can get up to 80 before the 1% white disappears.
Did you use all of the CNET settings as is, or did you change any of them? I wasn't happy with the red blotchy skin tones with their settings.

I spoke to a tech at Vizio this morning, and he suggested using the Calibrated or Calibrated Dark, and not touch the professional settings. He also suggested that I try using the "Computer" temperature setting along with it. He claims the Calibrated settings are comparable to what I would get if I calibrated. I'm not sure what to make of that. I didn't find the calibrated mode to look very good, but I didn't try it in combination with the "Computer" temperature setting.

Has anyone had any success with this combination?
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post #749 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kenatug View Post
Did you use all of the CNET settings as is, or did you change any of them? I wasn't happy with the red blotchy skin tones with their settings.

I spoke to a tech at Vizio this morning, and he suggested using the Calibrated or Calibrated Dark, and not touch the professional settings. He also suggested that I try using the "Computer" temperature setting along with it. He claims the Calibrated settings are comparable to what I would get if I calibrated. I'm not sure what to make of that. I didn't find the calibrated mode to look very good, but I didn't try it in combination with the "Computer" temperature setting.

Has anyone had any success with this combination?
I only tried the basic CNET settings (brightness, contrast, etc.). I did not touch the Professional settings as I don't have a meter, and am not trained. My skin tones seem natural and great-looking to my eyes.

Personally I really like the Calibrated Dark to begin with. It's a matter of personal taste. I don't care for the "Computer" color temperature because it's too cool/blue. I prefer a more natural warm color temp.

Based on CNET's settings, that claim by Vizio is only half right. The basic settings are close, except Katzmeier dropped the contrast to 64, zeroed the sharpness, and turned all image processing off save for the local dimming. That's nearly what I had come up with myself before the review, except I had contrast higher at 80. But according to Katzmeier, the color accuracy is still fairly off even in Vizio's "Calibrated" presets.
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post #750 of 2601 Old 06-17-2014, 01:44 PM
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Obviously the Vizio support person hasn't a clue as what is involved in properly calibrating a panel or what is involved. Panels don't all have exactly the same tolerance spec ranges so the settings and responses can vary drastically from one tv to another. Some are just fine right out of the box, others need just a little adjusting with a disk, and others need a real calibration with light meters, pattern generators, and specialized software to interpret the results and graphically represent them. Using posted settings can make your pq better if the tv that was calibrated is close your yours in regards to tolerance ranges but quite often the changes are less than satisfactory. Leave your tv at its default settings and write them down so you can always refer back to them later if you don't like the changes. Turn off all artificial processing on the tv, grab yourself a disk, and adjust what settings you can. If you use a blu-ray player for the disk, then make sure that all processing is also disabled on the player. You want to adjust your panel, not the source. Making a few accurate adjustments may be all that you need and a real calibration won't be necessary.
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