Official 2014 Vizio Mxxx-Bx Series owners thread - Page 49 - AVS Forum
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post #1441 of 2308 Old 07-22-2014, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Blnd2Spll View Post
I'm coming from a ~7 yr old 52" 720p rear projection panasonic lcd display (a bit of a dinosaur by today's standards). That being said, I really liked the quality of the picture. But, the lamp finally broke and I figure that means it's time to move on. This may also sort of explain my complaints with the Vizio --- I don't really care about a TVs ability to render incredible HD content (since I don't even own a blu ray player), I just want it to make everything look relatively good. Maybe the Vizio is great with HD, but I'm worried it has general issues as an all-around workhorse. I do realize that there are screen issues with LCD TVs and off-axis viewing -- my previous tv being no exception -- but I'd rather have a loss of color or desaturation than weird artifacts become visible.



I will look into the PCM setting on my cable box -- thanks for the suggestion. As for TV settings, I have pretty much all of the features turned off (smooth motion, motion blur, black detail, reduce signal noise, etc), except for local dimming, which is on. I'm working off of a custom version of "calibrated dark" that was quickly calibrated using calman 5.

Not sure this model will be great at handling low Rez sources. You'll for sure notice the difference between techs and it may be hard to match what you once had in the RPTV. If most of your viewing is non HD or low quality sources then I might suggest a Samsung or different model for you.

You may want to play with the settings and sharpness (some have found the need to raise this for this series, when with RPTV it's normally set to 0) it won't be perfect by any means, but may get to an acceptable level for you.


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post #1442 of 2308 Old 07-22-2014, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blnd2Spll View Post
I'm coming from a ~7 yr old 52" 720p rear projection panasonic lcd display (a bit of a dinosaur by today's standards). That being said, I really liked the quality of the picture. But, the lamp finally broke and I figure that means it's time to move on. This may also sort of explain my complaints with the Vizio --- I don't really care about a TVs ability to render incredible HD content (since I don't even own a blu ray player), I just want it to make everything look relatively good. Maybe the Vizio is great with HD, but I'm worried it has general issues as an all-around workhorse. I do realize that there are screen issues with LCD TVs and off-axis viewing -- my previous tv being no exception -- but I'd rather have a loss of color or desaturation than weird artifacts become visible.

I will look into the PCM setting on my cable box -- thanks for the suggestion. As for TV settings, I have pretty much all of the features turned off (smooth motion, motion blur, black detail, reduce signal noise, etc), except for local dimming, which is on. I'm working off of a custom version of "calibrated dark" that was quickly calibrated using calman 5.
I get exactly what you're saying, I'm coming off a JVC LCoS RPTV. What I did was for not great source (such as OTA 480) jacked the noise filters up to high, it really clears up the picture. Reduce Signal Noise and Reduce Block Noise. I was watching some very sketchy source material on plex and it looked much better. You just have to play with it. I don't expect perfection, but I want to be wowed. This tv does it for me. I guess I'm simple like that, then again I went from 52 to 65.
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post #1443 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
I've got the M422i-B1 and am fairly satisfied with it, but have a quick question about calibration. For white balance, do you touch Offset/Gain first, then the 11-point white balance, and then use the rest of the color tuner? I've been driving myself slightly insane here.
I ended up using this method with some success - I managed to get greyscale to be nearly perfect, and have pretty good colors - dE of 0.0 for one of the secondary colors, even! - with the exception of red, which couldn't really be budged very much, and remains at dE 2.5 Gamma across the board has suffered, especially at 70% and higher. I'm not sure how to calibrate while accounting for that, or whether a more consistent gamma near 2.2 is 'nicer' than generally accurate whites and colors.

One thing that's extremely annoying, though, is the fact that the White Balance settings aren't per setting or even per input - they're global. So if you want to calibrate for different use cases - like, say, with Active LED Zones On, or Motion Blur Reduction - you'll have to record the white balance settings for each, and then manually re-enter them each time. Motion Blur Reduction in particular futzes with colors, but so does Active LED Zones. As a practical matter I suppose that Active LED Zones should be left on, but I noticed during calibration that having it on absolutely slaughters gamma, so I decided to try and see what the results would be without it.

Haven't actually watched any material yet, but will report back when I do. Good night!
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post #1444 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 07:51 AM
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Will turning on Reduce Signal Noise and/or Reduce Block Noise generally improve the picture quality for HD sources on Directv via HDMI? It seems like it should from the descriptions in the user manual, but it also says that the high setting will result in a slight decrease in sharpness.
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post #1445 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 09:09 AM
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Trying to run some power numbers, and something on the Vizio website looks very wrong...

M55: 141.6W power consumption (http://store.vizio.com/m552ib2.html) , but manual says 69.86W (http://store.vizio.com/documents/dow...UM_M552iB2.pdf)
M60: 85W (Avg) (http://store.vizio.com/mseries/m602ib3.html), manual agrees.

Safe to assume page for 55 is wrong???
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post #1446 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
I ended up using this method with some success - I managed to get greyscale to be nearly perfect, and have pretty good colors - dE of 0.0 for one of the secondary colors, even! - with the exception of red, which couldn't really be budged very much, and remains at dE 2.5 Gamma across the board has suffered, especially at 70% and higher. I'm not sure how to calibrate while accounting for that, or whether a more consistent gamma near 2.2 is 'nicer' than generally accurate whites and colors.

One thing that's extremely annoying, though, is the fact that the White Balance settings aren't per setting or even per input - they're global. So if you want to calibrate for different use cases - like, say, with Active LED Zones On, or Motion Blur Reduction - you'll have to record the white balance settings for each, and then manually re-enter them each time. Motion Blur Reduction in particular futzes with colors, but so does Active LED Zones. As a practical matter I suppose that Active LED Zones should be left on, but I noticed during calibration that having it on absolutely slaughters gamma, so I decided to try and see what the results would be without it.

Haven't actually watched any material yet, but will report back when I do. Good night!
Thanks for the insight into your calibration. I'm going to do mine in a couple weeks. So did you calibrate it with the Active LED Zones on? I read somewhere (can't remember where, I've been reading a lot on calibrating) that it should be calibrated with them off, then turn them on after. Should I do that, or just calibrate with it on? Also, what order in % did you do the 11 points? I was going to do 80%, then 30%, but don't know where to go when I get them dialed in.

Next, did you notice any problem with the settings when calibrating? Katzmaier at CNET said the settings were off when he calibrated the 60", so they adjusted the % directly above it (10% adjusted 20%, and so on). I'm not sure if I'll run into that when I calibrate the 65".

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post #1447 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post
Thanks for the insight into your calibration. I'm going to do mine in a couple weeks. So did you calibrate it with the Active LED Zones on? I read somewhere (can't remember where, I've been reading a lot on calibrating) that it should be calibrated with them off, then turn them on after. Should I do that, or just calibrate with it on? Also, what order in % did you do the 11 points? I was going to do 80%, then 30%, but don't know where to go when I get them dialed in.

Next, did you notice any problem with the settings when calibrating? Katzmaier at CNET said the settings were off when he calibrated the 60", so they adjusted the % directly above it (10% adjusted 20%, and so on). I'm not sure if I'll run into that when I calibrate the 65".
This time, about my third or fourth attempt, I didn't calibrate with Active LED Zones on since I noticed gamma got slaughtered like that. If you do calibrate with Active Zones off, and then turn them on, I have found that it basically ruins all your work and blows out both whites and colors, at least on my set. You'll have many more LED Zones than this 42" bedroomer, so maybe that'll make a difference?

Also, this time, I calibrated White Balance from 100% down to 10%, instead of going up. When starting it, I think it would be a good idea to use the RGB Offset/Gain controls and flipping between the higher % and lowest ones, to get a good 'balance' between the two. Once you do that, you can start at 100% and work your way down using the 11-Point White Balance.

While I didn't find that 10% controlled the settings for 20% &c the way Katzmeier did - and by the way those numbers are absolutely useless; these displays are all different (to say nothing of mfr'ing variance from display to display) - I think that the controls are somewhat finicky, and what you do at a lower percentage can affect what the numbers for what is directly below it (or above it in the case of 90%). I had a much easier time across the board by going from top to bottom because of this, and can't recommend doing it the other way. You'll drive yourself insane.

One other thing I've found is that the RGB Offset/Gain settings are just as universal as the white balance - they will apply to all of your custom-made presets. Well, at least for that input, I don't know about others. Moreover, they WILL be erased if subsequent to calibration, you create a new setting from one of the factory presets (but not from a custom preset). The 11-Point White Balance numbers, however, will remain intact.
This is all very irksome if you want to calibrate to different settings and quickly change between them. But I guess that's what smartphones and Dropbox sync are for, heh...

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post #1448 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
This time, about my third or fourth attempt, I didn't calibrate with Active LED Zones on since I noticed gamma got slaughtered like that. If you do calibrate with Active Zones off, and then turn them on, I have found that it basically ruins all your work and blows out both whites and colors, at least on my set. You'll have many more LED Zones than this 42" bedroomer, so maybe that'll make a difference?

Also, this time, I calibrated White Balance from 100% down to 10%, instead of going up. When starting it, I think it would be a good idea to use the RGB Offset/Gain controls and flipping between the higher % and lowest ones, to get a good 'balance' between the two. Once you do that, you can start at 100% and work your way down using the 11-Point White Balance.

While I didn't find that 10% controlled the settings for 20% &c the way Katzmeier did - and by the way those numbers are absolutely useless; these displays are all different (to say nothing of mfr'ing variance from display to display) - I think that the controls are somewhat finicky, and what you do at a lower percentage can affect what the numbers for what is directly below it (or above it in the case of 90%). I had a much easier time across the board by going from top to bottom because of this, and can't recommend doing it the other way. You'll drive yourself insane.

One other thing I've found is that the RGB Offset/Gain settings are just as universal as the white balance - they will apply to all of your custom-made presets. Well, at least for that input, I don't know about others. Moreover, they WILL be erased if subsequent to calibration, you create a new setting from one of the factory presets (but not from a custom preset). The 11-Point White Balance numbers, however, will remain intact.
This is all very irksome if you want to calibrate to different settings and quickly change between them. But I guess that's what smartphones and Dropbox sync are for, heh...

For the settings have you tried renaming and or locking the custom setting after calibration? Haven't seen reports back on this yet to see if it makes a difference.


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post #1449 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 10:57 AM
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For the settings have you tried renaming and or locking the custom setting after calibration? Haven't seen reports back on this yet to see if it makes a difference.


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You mean, in order to have different White Balance and RGB Gain/Offset in other settings? I haven't tried locking them. I don't think renaming would do anything but could try it. Thanks for the idea.
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post #1450 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:28 AM
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For the settings have you tried renaming and or locking the custom setting after calibration? Haven't seen reports back on this yet to see if it makes a difference.


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I just locked my picture modes, and then created a new one from Calibrated Dark, by going into the Color Tuner there - which is initially set at all zeros - and changing RGB Gain for Red. The Color Tuner is totally usable this way, even though it is nominally locked for the other settings. However, when going back and unlocking the color tuner in one of your previous custom settings, the RGB Gain/Offset numbers will be totally reset to whatever it is you set them to in your new custom setting based on one of the factory ones (like Calibrated Dark). So locking doesn't appear to be relevant, and you have to be extra careful when creating new picture modes to only do so from existing custom modes, or to keep a record of the RGB Gain/Offset numbers should you ever need to re-enter them.
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post #1451 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hancox View Post
Trying to run some power numbers, and something on the Vizio website looks very wrong...

M55: 141.6W power consumption (http://store.vizio.com/m552ib2.html) , but manual says 69.86W (http://store.vizio.com/documents/dow...UM_M552iB2.pdf)
M60: 85W (Avg) (http://store.vizio.com/mseries/m602ib3.html), manual agrees.

Safe to assume page for 55 is wrong???
No the manual is not wrong. The 60" and 70" Sharp panels are using a less powerful backlight. We are guessing because it is using the thinner and more translucent IGZO back plane.
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post #1452 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
I just locked my picture modes, and then created a new one from Calibrated Dark, by going into the Color Tuner there - which is initially set at all zeros - and changing RGB Gain for Red. The Color Tuner is totally usable this way, even though it is nominally locked for the other settings. However, when going back and unlocking the color tuner in one of your previous custom settings, the RGB Gain/Offset numbers will be totally reset to whatever it is you set them to in your new custom setting based on one of the factory ones (like Calibrated Dark). So locking doesn't appear to be relevant, and you have to be extra careful when creating new picture modes to only do so from existing custom modes, or to keep a record of the RGB Gain/Offset numbers should you ever need to re-enter them.

Have you tried creating ha custom picture mode from "scratch" instead of using one of the presets as a base? Seems that the last few times you've been using Calibrated Dark as the "start". This may be where the issue lies (usig the presets as the start point).


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post #1453 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:41 AM
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No the manual is not wrong. The 60" and 70" Sharp panels are using a less powerful backlight. We are guessing because it is using the thinner and more translucent IGZO back plane.

Well, either the manual or website is wrong, given the difference.


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post #1454 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:42 AM
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Have you tried creating ha custom picture mode from "scratch" instead of using one of the presets as a base?

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How exactly do you do that? In order to create a custom mode, you need to first go into the menu for a specific existing mode: either one you invented, or one that came from the factory. If you then go to 'Create Mode' under Professional Picture, a new mode is created based on which ever one you selected in the main Picture menu. Going directly to the color tuner from a factory preset mode and change things there will just automatically create this new mode on your behalf, instead having to explicitly select 'Create Picture Mode'. The only difference is that when it does this, it doesn't give you the opportunity to name your mode before using it.
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post #1455 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:55 AM
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How exactly do you do that? In order to create a custom mode, you need to first go into the menu for a specific existing mode: either one you invented, or one that came from the factory. If you then go to 'Create Mode' under Professional Picture, a new mode is created based on which ever one you selected in the main Picture menu. Going directly to the color tuner from a factory preset mode and change things there will just automatically create this new mode on your behalf, instead having to explicitly select 'Create Picture Mode'. The only difference is that when it does this, it doesn't give you the opportunity to name your mode before using it.

Going by the manual (pg 29-30) go to professional Picture>Create Mode. Then name then mode "Whateveryoudlike" click done then adjust as needed. For locking modes it seems to lock all instead of individual so this may be a feature request to ask for.


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post #1456 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:58 AM
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2014 Vizio TV settings memory quirks.

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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
Have you tried creating ha custom picture mode from "scratch" instead of using one of the presets as a base?

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OK, it looks like I finally figured out how this idiocy works. White Balance and RGB Gain/Offset are tied to the color temperature setting.
  • If you created a custom setting from a given factory setting, the RGB Offset/Gain controls and White Balance will remain constant across all custom settings created off of that factory setting, or any other factory settings that share the same color temperature.
  • If you create ANOTHER new custom setting from any factory setting with the same color temperature as your earlier custom settings, it WILL reset your previous Offset, Gain, a̶n̶d̶ ̶W̶h̶i̶t̶e̶ ̶B̶a̶l̶a̶n̶c̶e̶ controls to zero.
  • Using the Color Tuner under any factory setting will automatically create a new custom setting based upon the factory setting, and WILL reset any previous Offset/Gain settings you may have had in other custom settings based upon the same color temperature.
  • If you create a custom setting from a factory setting with a different color temperature than the previous ones, you will NOT lose your previously entered Offset, Gain, or White Balance in the previous custom settings.
  • T̶h̶e̶ ̶R̶G̶B̶ ̶O̶f̶f̶s̶e̶t̶/̶G̶a̶i̶n̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶W̶h̶i̶t̶e̶ ̶B̶a̶l̶a̶n̶c̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶s̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶C̶a̶l̶i̶b̶r̶a̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶C̶a̶l̶i̶b̶r̶a̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶D̶a̶r̶k̶ ̶a̶r̶e̶ ̶s̶h̶a̶r̶e̶d̶.̶ ̶C̶o̶n̶s̶i̶d̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶m̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶a̶m̶e̶ ̶f̶a̶c̶t̶o̶r̶y̶ ̶s̶e̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶t̶e̶r̶m̶s̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶a̶b̶o̶v̶e̶ ̶r̶u̶l̶e̶s̶.̶ (Obviously.)
  • T̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶h̶a̶n̶g̶e̶s̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶W̶h̶i̶t̶e̶ ̶B̶a̶l̶a̶n̶c̶e̶ ̶e̶n̶t̶e̶r̶e̶d̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶a̶ ̶c̶u̶s̶t̶o̶m̶ ̶p̶i̶c̶t̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶w̶i̶l̶l̶ ̶a̶p̶p̶l̶y̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶o̶r̶i̶g̶i̶n̶a̶l̶ ̶f̶a̶c̶t̶o̶r̶y̶ ̶s̶e̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶w̶e̶l̶l̶.̶ (Ditto.)
  • These engineers need to be hung, drawn, and quartered.
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post #1457 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
Going by the manual (pg 29-30) go to professional Picture>Create Mode. Then name then mode "Whateveryoudlike" click done then adjust as needed. For locking modes it seems to lock all instead of individual so this may be a feature request to ask for.


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Well in order to get to Professional Picture, you need to first select a mode to begin with. That mode is then used as the base. There is no getting around that.
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post #1458 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 12:03 PM
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OK, it looks like I finally figured out how this idiocy works.
  • If you created a custom setting from a given factory setting, the RGB Offset/Gain controls and White Balance will remain constant across all custom settings created off of that factory setting.
  • If you create ANOTHER new custom setting from a factory setting, it WILL reset your previous Offset Gain, and White Balance controls to zero.
  • If you create a custom setting from a different factory setting than previous ones, you will NOT lose your previously entered Offset, Gain, or White Balance.
  • These engineers need to be hung, drawn, and quartered.

So you could use Calibrated Day/ Calibrated Night you can create 2 separate independent "modes". Good to know and thank you for all of the work


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post #1459 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 12:06 PM
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So you could use Calibrated Day/ Calibrated Night you can create 2 separate independent "modes". Good to know and thank you for all of the work


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My pleasure. Thanks for the idea to use a different mode as a base!
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post #1460 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 12:17 PM
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OK, it looks like I finally figured out how this idiocy works.
  • If you created a custom setting from a given factory setting, the RGB Offset/Gain controls and White Balance will remain constant across all custom settings created off of that factory setting.
  • If you create ANOTHER new custom setting from that same factory setting, it WILL reset your previous Offset, Gain, and White Balance controls to zero.
  • If you create a custom setting from a different factory setting than previous ones, you will NOT lose your previously entered Offset, Gain, or White Balance.
  • These engineers need to be hung, drawn, and quartered.
Oh my god guys, the plot thickens. Let me figure out the EXACT rules before proceeding.
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post #1461 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
This time, about my third or fourth attempt, I didn't calibrate with Active LED Zones on since I noticed gamma got slaughtered like that. If you do calibrate with Active Zones off, and then turn them on, I have found that it basically ruins all your work and blows out both whites and colors, at least on my set. You'll have many more LED Zones than this 42" bedroomer, so maybe that'll make a difference?

Also, this time, I calibrated White Balance from 100% down to 10%, instead of going up. When starting it, I think it would be a good idea to use the RGB Offset/Gain controls and flipping between the higher % and lowest ones, to get a good 'balance' between the two. Once you do that, you can start at 100% and work your way down using the 11-Point White Balance.

While I didn't find that 10% controlled the settings for 20% &c the way Katzmeier did - and by the way those numbers are absolutely useless; these displays are all different (to say nothing of mfr'ing variance from display to display) - I think that the controls are somewhat finicky, and what you do at a lower percentage can affect what the numbers for what is directly below it (or above it in the case of 90%). I had a much easier time across the board by going from top to bottom because of this, and can't recommend doing it the other way. You'll drive yourself insane.

One other thing I've found is that the RGB Offset/Gain settings are just as universal as the white balance - they will apply to all of your custom-made presets. Well, at least for that input, I don't know about others. Moreover, they WILL be erased if subsequent to calibration, you create a new setting from one of the factory presets (but not from a custom preset). The 11-Point White Balance numbers, however, will remain intact.
This is all very irksome if you want to calibrate to different settings and quickly change between them. But I guess that's what smartphones and Dropbox sync are for, heh...

Try calibrated instead of calibrated dark. On my 42in, calibrated dark clips white when you turn active zones on but calibrated does not. Maybe all the 42 are this way but you should see this easily with a grayscale ramp. This way you can calibrate with the local dimming on and get whatever gamma curve you want by using the 10pt grayscale controls. I was able to use bt1886 gamma this way which gives a more contrasty look than a 2.2 gamma. However the local dimming does screw with the gamma numbers at the lower end if you have the color tuner on at the same time you are measuring.

The biggest problem I have with the tv is the haloing or ripple effect in dark scenes. Just leaving a pause button graphic on the bottom left of the screen causes that area to light up much more than the rest of the screen. Credits are pretty bad as you can see a whole strip of light across the names from edge to edge. Doing a full calibration helps but it's still noticeable even with the use of a bias light. Do you see this on your tv?
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post #1462 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 12:34 PM
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Oh my god guys, the plot thickens. Let me figure out the EXACT rules before proceeding.
I will update my original 'rules' post as I figure things out - as I just did.

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Try calibrated instead of calibrated dark. On my 42in, calibrated dark clips white when you turn active zones on but calibrated does not. Maybe all the 42 are this way but you should see this easily with a grayscale ramp. This way you can calibrate with the local dimming on and get whatever gamma curve you want by using the 10pt grayscale controls. I was able to use bt1886 gamma this way which gives a more contrasty look than a 2.2 gamma. However the local dimming does screw with the gamma numbers at the lower end if you have the color tuner on at the same time you are measuring.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to record my current settings before proceeding, but I should do that anyway, given how buggy this system is.
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Credits are pretty bad as you can see a whole strip of light across the names from edge to edge. Doing a full calibration helps but it's still noticeable even with the use of a bias light. Do you see this on your tv?
Absolutely. It's horrendous. I shut off local dimming as soon as white-on-dark rolling credits come on (I mean not for TV shows, but for movies, when I actually watch the credits). It's my biggest annoyance aside from the dark corners, which don't matter nearly as much. I had the 32" M322 before this, and problem is much, more worse on that.
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post #1463 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 12:40 PM
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Just leaving a pause button graphic on the bottom left of the screen causes that area to light up much more than the rest of the screen.
This has made calibrating grayscale difficult for me and nigh impossible at 10%. While the White Balance / Color Tuner is open, I'll get one number for dE; as soon as it closes, it shifts. Usually not by much, but at 10% it'll more than double.
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post #1464 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 01:09 PM
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This has made calibrating grayscale difficult for me and nigh impossible at 10%. While the White Balance / Color Tuner is open, I'll get one number for dE; as soon as it closes, it shifts. Usually not by much, but at 10% it'll more than double.
At lower levels especially with local dimming on, you have to go in and out of menus and take measurements. Are you using fields or windows for measurements? I only see small fluctuations at 10% with fields and it's really hard to get a low de anyway. It was my highest error with readings between 3 and 5 de 2000. The rest were below 1.5.
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post #1465 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 01:12 PM
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Guys, it's worse than I thought - White Balance and RGB Gain/Offset is set per color temperature. Period. That's it. We're boned.
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post #1466 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 01:28 PM
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Guys, it's worse than I thought - White Balance and RGB Gain/Offset is set per color temperature. Period. That's it. We're boned.

That is for sure odd behavior.


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post #1467 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 01:36 PM
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That is for sure odd behavior.


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No kidding. Can somebody please confirm this is the case on their set, regardless of size? Maybe it is limited to the M422, or maybe just to my own personal set.
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post #1468 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 01:48 PM
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No kidding. Can somebody please confirm this is the case on their set, regardless of size? Maybe it is limited to the M422, or maybe just to my own personal set.

You may want to reach out to David Katz from CNet to see if they still have their test units. He'd be able to test and reach higher up within Vizio to get answers.


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post #1469 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 01:55 PM
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No kidding. Can somebody please confirm this is the case on their set, regardless of size? Maybe it is limited to the M422, or maybe just to my own personal set.
Just checked and it's the same for me. Not a big deal for me since I only use a day and night mode but I would like to have a 2.2 gamma day mode as well. Has anyone measured the cool or computer temperature to see how far off they are from 6500k? Maybe they can be brought into line with the white balance controls.
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post #1470 of 2308 Old 07-23-2014, 02:19 PM
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At lower levels especially with local dimming on, you have to go in and out of menus and take measurements. Are you using fields or windows for measurements? I only see small fluctuations at 10% with fields and it's really hard to get a low de anyway. It was my highest error with readings between 3 and 5 de 2000. The rest were below 1.5.
I'm using dE94 to measure, with fields off the AVS709 BD-R. The fluctuations are persistent and maddening. I may need to take the very, very low end into account when fiddling with RGB Gain/Offset next time (because of course there'll be a next time!) I just now managed to get 10% to sit around 1.5 (still no local dimming). Everything else is at the worst 1.0, and most of them closer to zero than to one.
This is my first time attempting to calibrate anything beyond using pluge or color patterns, and I've basically been getting a crash course since Friday, heh.
The color inaccuracy (for blue and especially red) is more annoying now, and gamma is bad at or above 60%. But, I think I've done the best I could with these settings (no local dimming, no other processing).

Last edited by bilditup1; 07-23-2014 at 03:07 PM.
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