Sharp UQ17U Calibrations - Page 2 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 14Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 288 Old 06-21-2014, 06:24 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
i agree with you, Just making sure anyone who may use the settings and think they are going to have an image closer to the industry standard of accuracy knows the difference.thank you [IMG]http://*******/BqayBL[/IMG]
whynotjused is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 288 Old 06-22-2014, 01:59 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by whynotjused View Post
i agree with you, Just making sure anyone who may use the settings and think they are going to have an image closer to the industry standard of accuracy knows the difference.thank you [IMG]http://*******/BqayBL[/IMG]
Thank you for the feedback and encouragement.
Remember that the USER setting is a per-input setup.
You have to plug in the values for each, or it will stay at the factory default settings.
As for the industry standard of accuracy; those are based on an RGB colorspace and not
the Quattron RGBY colorspace. This could be seen as a minor quibble -- just run the yellow
to land in the vector between red and green -- but the setup is not so simple.
As you are calibrating, the yellow pixel is wreaking havoc on the meter's readings.
That explains why the machine calibrations are inferior to the ones done by eye.
Yellow falls on the spectrum between green and red and, depending on the equipment, will
cause one or the other sensor or both to pick it up as its own primary.
I would be very interested in finding anyone who has overcome this problem.
Furthermore, the PICTURE QUALITY algorithms (User, Standard, THX, etc.) take whatever is
input and make their own colorspace based on Quattron and not RGB values.
It's very complicated and the manufacturer is not even in firm control, it seems.
The STANDARD setting requires a lot of blue bias to overcome 'lemon face' syndrome.
This throws off the Blue in the CMS and also the CYAN.
I switched to the USER mode finally to allow a redder white with acceptable fleshtones
and more robust CYAN. I found the MOVIE THX setting to have the best color algorithm,
but it doesn't allow the use of the Light Sensor to control backlight -- an unacceptable restriction.
One clue about the yellow pixel comes from Sharp's description of the
advantages of Quattron, one of which is brighter white resulting from
2 pathways instead of one: RGB and BY. The blue/yellow white portion
seems to be unseen by the calibration equipment, but is instead seen as
an excess of blue alone and the resulting calculations are too yellow...

Last edited by johnfull; 06-22-2014 at 04:27 AM.
johnfull is offline  
post #33 of 288 Old 06-23-2014, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by QKN View Post
Thank you so much for your efforts, I really apreciate it! This was so good I had to pop my post cherry

I have the 70UQ10 and have fiddled around with your two Standard and User settings as well as the Movie settings from the _big_ thread but also found it too yellow and didnt work at all for me on my setup.

I almost only watch series and movies (MKV and BluRay alike) from my HTPC through my Sony 1040 reciever and found the User settings the best. Any tips to tweak the settings running from an HTPC? Should I calibrate anything on the HTPC as well?

The Sony 1040 also alows for 4K upscaling and when I "activate" it my Sharp switches to 2160p but I canĀ“t make out any difference... It might be that it takes to many steps/time for me to switch between I forget how it looked last time What do you recommend I use?

Also I have the Xbox One running through the receiver. Any tips here? The "standard" game settings are horrible

Thanks again!
I will try a calibration for the Game Modes. I never use those, but it is easy enough
to balance the white and check for color clipping to clean it up a bit.
As for upscaling BluRay -- you should let the TV do that instead of the Sony player.
Same goes for any processing by the HTPC -- let the Sharp handle it.
It sounds like everything runs through the same output from the HTPC so you don't
have to worry about setting each input on the USER setting. Just as a reminder,
though, each input you use will require the setting be input in USER mode.
Let me work on the Game Mode and I'll get back to you. Thanks for your note!
johnfull is offline  
post #34 of 288 Old 06-23-2014, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by QKN View Post
Thank you so much for your efforts, I really apreciate it! This was so good I had to pop my post cherry

...

Also I have the Xbox One running through the receiver. Any tips here? The "standard" game settings are horrible

Thanks again!
GAME MODE (without a lot of changes so far -- give me feedback!):

Game Standard
Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (0)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (0)

Advanced

Resolution Enhancement (Mode 1) -- try off and decide
Clear Picture (Off) -- try this ON as well and decide
Temperature (MIDDLE) -- let me know if this shade of white needs work.
It looks slightly blue/gray up to the peak brightness, where it turns just
a bit pink. I would have to do a 10-Point to remove the pink in such a
narrow part of the dynamic range. Let me know what you think...
CMS Hue (All 0)
CMS Saturation (R-3, Y-0, G-0, C+5, B-0, M-3)
CMS Value (ALL 0)
Active Contrast (OFF) -- try this on as well
Gamma (0)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)
Monochrome (OFF)
Light Sensor (ON Maximum +16 Minimum -11)

Since I don't do gaming, these are based off the calibration disc only.
Give me some feedback about lag time and color, etc.
I adjusted the colors so they don't oversaturate, but that might
make games look dull. If so, crank up the 'Color' control and let me
know how it looks. The CMS will allow me to work on one color at a
time if something looks too bright or too dull. Thanks for helping!

Last edited by johnfull; 06-23-2014 at 01:03 PM.
johnfull is offline  
post #35 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 04:46 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
"NEW STANDARD!"
One edit so far -- highlighted with underscore and bold typeface.

Having lived with the USER setting for over a week, I decided to re-visit the STANDARD setting
to align it more with the USER. Basically, I did less modification of the MIDDLE color temperature,
tweaking the factory setting just enough to lose the pink and green variations across the spectrum.
By doing so, there was no need to alter the TINT setting for Yellow in order to get fleshtones right. WRONG - lemon faces required a -15
adjustment to the Yellow HUE. What's with HDTV and yellow faces?

This setting is 'drier' than the USER setting, with more restrained color, though the World Cup field
and jerseys still have plenty of saturation -- it's mostly the fleshtones that the setting plays down.
The minimum Light Sensor setting is bumped up to keep the low-light image crisp. Feedback?...

Picture Quality (STANDARD)
Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (0)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)

Advanced
Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)
CMS -- ALL 0 except (Saturation -- ALL -2 except CYAN +20, Hue Yellow -15)
Color Temperature (MIDDLE)

10-Point Temperature (ON)
Position 1 (R-5, G+15, B0)
...........2 (R-5, G+10, B0)
Postitions 3-9 (R-5, G+5, B0)
Position 10 (R-15, G0, B0)

Active Contrast (OFF)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)
Monochrome (OFF)
Light Sensor (Maximum +16, Minimum -8)

Optional: CMS HUE (Blue -30) warms up and expands the blues

Let me know what you think.
I'm going to leave the set on Standard to get comments
in the household. So far, it's a toss-up, though I prefer the lush color of the USER setting so far. This setting has a warmer (pinker) bright white.
I would recommend the USER setting for black and white sources...
Jahjd2000 likes this.

Last edited by johnfull; 06-25-2014 at 12:23 PM.
johnfull is offline  
post #36 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 05:17 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Stereodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Detroit Metro Area
Posts: 10,069
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 615 Post(s)
Liked: 597
How can you call this a calibration thread when you're simply tuning the TV by eye to what you find visually pleasant?
Stereodude is offline  
post #37 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 05:24 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
How can you call this a calibration thread when you're simply tuning the TV by eye to what you find visually pleasant?
Because I'm basically making the color temperature scale uniform in tint, using the calibration disc.
The out-of-the-box settings are either pink or blue and are uneven across the spectrum.
I use my eyeballs in service to the ultimate goal of having an accurate picture.
I do the minimum changes in order to reduce color clipping and get 'pleasing' color, as you say.
I use the calibration disc -- your charge is false -- I am calibrating to the level of my visual acuity.
You ignore the discussion that the Quattron sets don't yield good results to amateurs with gauges.
In the end, what are you going to believe -- your lying eyes or your lying gauges?
I don't intend on taking food out of the mouths of professional calibrators. More power to them,
but they realize when a reading is erroneous and find a way to correct it.
Do you have one of these sets? If not, how can you judge?
videobruce likes this.
johnfull is offline  
post #38 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 05:38 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Stereodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Detroit Metro Area
Posts: 10,069
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 615 Post(s)
Liked: 597
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
You ignore the discussion that the Quattron sets don't yield good results to amateurs with gauges.
In the end, what are you going to believe -- your lying eyes or your lying gauges?
You haven't produced any evidence or even a cogent argument why a meter can't measure a Quattron or Q+ panel. So your argument is really whether I'd trust lying eyes or a meter. Hmm... Tough call.
Stereodude is offline  
post #39 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
You haven't produced any evidence or even a cogent argument why a meter can't measure a Quattron or Q+ panel. So your argument is really whether I'd trust lying eyes or a meter. Hmm... Tough call.
The evidence is that every single person, without exception, that has tried my settings has preferred
them to the out-of-the-box and to the gauge-determined settings posted by some other users.
I have basic working knowledge of color theory and I have read some posts in the calibration
section about problems with RGBY engineering. I don't know why the gauge settings tend towards
the green and yellow, but THEY DO. You would know this if you had access to a set. Others have
commented on this fact as well. My reverse-engineered theory is that the gauge doesn't account
for the yellow wavelength because it is manufactured to read red, green, and blue.
Yellow can be simulated by red and green light, but the yellow of the Quattron is its own wavelength.
That is a big difference and maybe the gauges are not designed to be sensitive to that wavelength.
It's a theory, but it is secondary to the proof in the outcome -- using your eyes and a calibration disc,
you can make a more accurate picture than the out-of-the-box or the gauge-determined settings that
I have seen so far. Mechman is doing good work with the gauge, but he admits that the numbers
are off. What is your theory? You think I'm hoodwinking folks here? They know what they want
out of a $3,000 television and so do I. Your snarkiness is not helpful...
videobruce likes this.
johnfull is offline  
post #40 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 06:00 AM
Member
 
Carlucci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I just go by what looks good to my eyes, and Johnfull's settings have looked the best to me so far. When AVManiac or someone else posts settings done with a meter and I have a chance to do an A/B comparison, I'll do just that and pick the one that pleases my eyes the most.

Thanks again Johnfull for taking the time to tinker with the set and post your settings. I'll try the new Standard settings tonight. One question though, you refer to it a "Standard", though on my 70UQ it says "Standard(EnergyStar)." Is that the same thing, or is there a way to remove the "EnergyStar" from the Standard mode?
Carlucci is offline  
post #41 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlucci View Post
I just go by what looks good to my eyes, and Johnfull's settings have looked the best to me so far. When AVManiac or someone else posts settings done with a meter and I have a chance to do an A/B comparison, I'll do just that and pick the one that pleases my eyes the most.

Thanks again Johnfull for taking the time to tinker with the set and post your settings. I'll try the new Standard settings tonight. One question though, you refer to it a "Standard", though on my 70UQ it says "Standard(EnergyStar)." Is that the same thing, or is there a way to remove the "EnergyStar" from the Standard mode?
Yes, that's the same setting -- not sure why they stick the Energy Star moniker on it.
I'm looking forward to someone figuring out the problem with the gauge readings, too.
I would jump at the chance to plug in some 'real' numbers. Meantime, it's up to the eyeballs...
johnfull is offline  
post #42 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 02:01 PM
Member
 
tikijojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
How successful have Johnfull's settings worked for SQ owners? I have a 70SQ and want to try them out on mine.
tikijojo is offline  
post #43 of 288 Old 06-25-2014, 07:58 PM
Member
 
NCRod16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
"NEW STANDARD!"
One edit so far -- highlighted with underscore and bold typeface.

Having lived with the USER setting for over a week, I decided to re-visit the STANDARD setting
to align it more with the USER. Basically, I did less modification of the MIDDLE color temperature,
tweaking the factory setting just enough to lose the pink and green variations across the spectrum.
By doing so, there was no need to alter the TINT setting for Yellow in order to get fleshtones right. WRONG - lemon faces required a -15
adjustment to the Yellow HUE. What's with HDTV and yellow faces?

This setting is 'drier' than the USER setting, with more restrained color, though the World Cup field
and jerseys still have plenty of saturation -- it's mostly the fleshtones that the setting plays down.
The minimum Light Sensor setting is bumped up to keep the low-light image crisp. Feedback?...

Picture Quality (STANDARD)
Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (0)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)

Advanced
Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)
CMS -- ALL 0 except (Saturation -- ALL -2 except CYAN +20, Hue Yellow -15)
Color Temperature (MIDDLE)

10-Point Temperature (ON)
Position 1 (R-5, G+15, B0)
...........2 (R-5, G+10, B0)
Postitions 3-9 (R-5, G+5, B0)
Position 10 (R-15, G0, B0)

Active Contrast (OFF)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)
Monochrome (OFF)
Light Sensor (Maximum +16, Minimum -8)

Optional: CMS HUE (Blue -30) warms up and expands the blues

Let me know what you think.
I'm going to leave the set on Standard to get comments
in the household. So far, it's a toss-up, though I prefer the lush color of the USER setting so far. This setting has a warmer (pinker) bright white.
I would recommend the USER setting for black and white sources...
What is the gamma setting on this one? Just to clarify all CMS are at zero except for the saturation colors you mention and the option to expand blue hues. Correct? Just wanted to make sure I understood your abbreviations on the CMS settings.
NCRod16 is offline  
post #44 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 02:01 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
What is the gamma setting on this one? Just to clarify all CMS are at zero except for the saturation colors you mention and the option to expand blue hues. Correct? Just wanted to make sure I understood your abbreviations on the CMS settings.
Zero (0) Gamma, as with the others.
I set up the contrast and brightness with the calibration disc and
avoided the Dynamic Contrast and higher Gamma to prevent crushed blacks
and burned out whites. You're free to change any setting, of course.
With the Color Clipping screen on the disc, I turned all the CMS Saturations
down by 2 notches to avoid clipping, except for the weak Cyan output, which
I raised to +20. I also moved the Yellow Hue to -15 to improve certain fleshtones.
The blue is an afterthought always, but really does improve the overly-cold and
monotonous color into a wider and warmer palette.
Sorry for the abbreviations. I was short on time and wanted to put something
up to get feedback. The Standard setting reacts differently from the User to
programming input. I still prefer the User, but this one is pretty good.
johnfull is offline  
post #45 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 04:53 AM
Member
 
jy12399's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Johnfull,

I have programmed your standard and user settings. This is by far the best picture my tv has had thus far.. and I have the sharp Lc60tq15u. My tv has the exact same menu options that yours has. My picture pops so much more now, but not in a fake way. Colors look vivid, but very realistic. Skin tones look great. Sports look amazing as well. Watching baseball and soccer last night was truly pleasing.. no stuttering and images were crisp without shadowing. My TV is in a heavy natural lit room, so I had to play with the light sensor settings a bit.

Right now I am using the user settings and am completely satisfied. It almost feels like I had a professional calibrator come to my house to calibrate my tv. Just wanted to give you some feedback. Great job!
jy12399 is offline  
post #46 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by jy12399 View Post
Johnfull,

I have programmed your standard and user settings. This is by far the best picture my tv has had thus far.. and I have the sharp Lc60tq15u. My tv has the exact same menu options that yours has. My picture pops so much more now, but not in a fake way. Colors look vivid, but very realistic. Skin tones look great. Sports look amazing as well. Watching baseball and soccer last night was truly pleasing.. no stuttering and images were crisp without shadowing. My TV is in a heavy natural lit room, so I had to play with the light sensor settings a bit.

Right now I am using the user settings and am completely satisfied. It almost feels like I had a professional calibrator come to my house to calibrate my tv. Just wanted to give you some feedback. Great job!
Glad to know that the settings work on other models!
Glad, too, that you were able to tailor the light sensor to your own conditions.
The backlight has so much more capacity than I will ever use, that's for sure.
I was looking at the settings this morning in total darkness and ran across a
re-run of Last Tango in Halifax from the BBC. Dark, candlelit scenes have a
bit of green in shadows that I don't like. Less on the Standard setting than
on the User. This area of adjustment is very difficult to do without equipment,
so I hope someone figures out how to calibrate with the gauge soon.
The image was clear in the dark areas, so the slight green tinge might have
been in the original. Nothing serious, but the kind of thing I will eventually
nudge to get just right.
Thanks for the positive feedback!
johnfull is offline  
post #47 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Hey, jy12399 -- could you post the changes you made to the light sensor/backlight?
I just happened to remember that my UQ model features a 'Super Bright' technology
that makes for a brighter picture. Your adjustment may be just the thing to make
the other models look the same as what I'm seeing. Thanks!
johnfull is offline  
post #48 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 06:07 AM
Member
 
Carlucci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Johnfull, on your new standard settings, you left the gamma setting off. Is it still at -2?


I like your settings a lot, but I prefer to take the sharpness and contrast down about 5 ticks from your settings. Will doing this have a negative impact on the other settings?
Carlucci is offline  
post #49 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 06:18 AM
Member
 
jy12399's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Hey, jy12399 -- could you post the changes you made to the light sensor/backlight?
I just happened to remember that my UQ model features a 'Super Bright' technology
that makes for a brighter picture. Your adjustment may be just the thing to make
the other models look the same as what I'm seeing. Thanks!
Johnfull,

I left the max brightness at +16 and upped the minimum brightness to -8. By doing this, it makes the picture pop regardless of daylight or darkness, without feeling like you have to put sunglasses on when its dark . Please keep us updated on any changes you make as I would like to mirror your exact settings because i'm extremely impressed.

Thanks again!
jy12399 is offline  
post #50 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlucci View Post
Johnfull, on your new standard settings, you left the gamma setting off. Is it still at -2?


I like your settings a lot, but I prefer to take the sharpness and contrast down about 5 ticks from your settings. Will doing this have a negative impact on the other settings?
Sorry about the gamma -- I was in a hurry to post in order to get feedback. Same setting.
Raising the contrast might make the whites clip, but it
sounds like you are actually reducing it, which is ok, too.
Raising the Gamma will crush the blacks a bit. If you want more snap, either or both of
those things can be done to your own taste. It doesn't effect other settings that I can tell.
I set up the Gamma, brightness, and contrast with the calibration disc to keep all fine detail.
Another thing that has come up -- owners of other models in the 'Q' line besides the UQ
don't have the new added 'Super Bright' technology and might need to make adjustments.
A user of tq15u says that the colors are all very good, but tinkers with light sensor to get enough
brightness in a bright room. I encourage anyone to use my settings as a starting point to make
adjustments and post improvements. Thanks, again, for your feedback!
johnfull is offline  
post #51 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by jy12399 View Post
Johnfull,

I left the max brightness at +16 and upped the minimum brightness to -8. By doing this, it makes the picture pop regardless of daylight or darkness, without feeling like you have to put sunglasses on when its dark . Please keep us updated on any changes you make as I would like to mirror your exact settings because i'm extremely impressed.

Thanks again!
I think you are onto something. On the Standard, I raised the minimum to -8 and that may
be why I prefer it to the USER in a dark room, showing a dark, candlelit scene. It seemed
to muddy a bit with the User setting, so I may raise its minimum to your -8 setting. Thanks!
johnfull is offline  
post #52 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 12:43 PM
Advanced Member
 
Jahjd2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 553
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 71
Thanks for doing this, John. I'll try your setting tonight on my 70SQ to see how it looks. I've been using calibrated settings posted by other users and while the picture looks good with blu ray and other high quality sources, it does look a bit yellow and dim with cable and some streaming movies via AppleTV. I lean towards wanting a pop of color in my picture. Will post my thoughts after trying it out.

Sharp LC70SQ15U
Denon 4311ci
Ascend Acoustics Towers (NrT)
Ascend Horizon Center (NrT)
Definitive Technology Surrounds BP1.2X
Rythmik E15HP
Epik Empire
Jahjd2000 is offline  
post #53 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahjd2000 View Post
Thanks for doing this, John. I'll try your setting tonight on my 70SQ to see how it looks. I've been using calibrated settings posted by other users and while the picture looks good with blu ray and other high quality sources, it does look a bit yellow and dim with cable and some streaming movies via AppleTV. I lean towards wanting a pop of color in my picture. Will post my thoughts after trying it out.
It's great to be able to customize these TV sets!
I'm hoping that Mechman will see if his calibration gauge is getting thrown off on yellow.
I would love to get my readings fine-tuned with the use of his electronic equipment,
Rlindo had the same problem with the blue/yellow complementary pair on his gauge.
If either of them or anyone else can get to the bottom of the issue, I'd be grateful.
Meantime, my USER setting is my favorite and has weathered a lot of viewing conditions,
including BluRay and the World Cup (Portugal AND Germany) without feeling I need to
modify it. Feel free to adjust the Automatic Light Sensor minimum setting if it proves too dim.
Feel free to do anything, actually, and let us all know what you discover. Happy trails!
johnfull is offline  
post #54 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 01:27 PM
Member
 
tikijojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I think you are onto something. On the Standard, I raised the minimum to -8 and that may
be why I prefer it to the USER in a dark room, showing a dark, candlelit scene. It seemed
to muddy a bit with the User setting, so I may raise its minimum to your -8 setting. Thanks!
I used your "new standard" settings on my 70SQ15 yesterday and really liked them. I first tried Avmaniac's settings, but coming from 2 previous plasmas, I do not like the muted, dim look. I did however, kinda/sort of apply your Standard settings to my User settings. I made my own tweaks to it to my liking and so far I'm liking it. It still needs more tweaking but i'm getting close. I will be honest, I was pretty unimpressed with this TV when I first took it out of the box. Comcast only feeds it 1080i so that's an issue I wish I could change. However, your settings seem to be helping me dialing in the TV to a better look that I like - again with some small tweaks. The Automatic Sensor is an absolute must on this TV. I have never used it on any of my previous Plasmas b/c at night it would dim the picture way too much.

Do you have any "User" settings posted anywhere in this forum by any chance?
tikijojo is offline  
post #55 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by tikijojo View Post
I used your "new standard" settings on my 70SQ15 yesterday and really liked them. I first tried Avmaniac's settings, but coming from 2 previous plasmas, I do not like the muted, dim look. I did however, kinda/sort of apply your Standard settings to my User settings. I made my own tweaks to it to my liking and so far I'm liking it. It still needs more tweaking but i'm getting close. I will be honest, I was pretty unimpressed with this TV when I first took it out of the box. Comcast only feeds it 1080i so that's an issue I wish I could change. However, your settings seem to be helping me dialing in the TV to a better look that I like - again with some small tweaks. The Automatic Sensor is an absolute must on this TV. I have never used it on any of my previous Plasmas b/c at night it would dim the picture way too much.

Do you have any "User" settings posted anywhere in this forum by any chance?
The user setting is in this thread, back before the New Standard setting.
I like the User much better still, though the minimum light sensor is higher on Standard
and might improve low-light scenes viewed in a dark room. I may go in and modify the
User setting to -8 instead of the current -11. Here is the User setting again. User requires input for each device, unlike Standard...

USER SETTING:

Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+3)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)

Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)

CMS -- all (0) except Yellow Hue (-15), Blue Hue (-15), Cyan Saturation (+15)

Color Temperature (LOW)

2-Point settings:

LO: R (0), G (+30), B (+26)
HI: R (-8), G (+24), B (+30)

Active Contrast (OFF)
Gamma (0)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)

Light Sensor:

Max (+16), Min (-11)

Flesh tones are better with this setting.
Overall image is less bright, more comfortable.
Remember to input it for each device!

Last edited by johnfull; 06-26-2014 at 01:43 PM.
johnfull is offline  
post #56 of 288 Old 06-26-2014, 05:29 PM
Member
 
tikijojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Thanks Johnfull.

Another question, how do you or can you get rid of the "double ball effect" when watching sports? I ask b/c I was watching Golf this afternoon and the I would see 2 balls sometimes when it was in flight.

Also you mentioned rlindo has good settings for the SQ, I've searched for them but can't find them. Do you know where they are?

Last edited by tikijojo; 06-26-2014 at 06:20 PM.
tikijojo is offline  
post #57 of 288 Old 06-27-2014, 02:07 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
I'm not sure what would totally remove the ghosting on all high-speed shots.
Sometimes, it's in the source material, but professionally broadcast images shouldn't do it.
Try turning the AquoMotion 240 to another setting and try changing the Film Mode.
As for Rlindo, maybe he was just telling me about his calibrations on his parents' SQ set.
He was having trouble with erroneous blue readings and ended up with a very dim picture.
You could send him a private note to get them. I think he used Movie settings.
Did you try the User settings? How do you think they compare to the Standard?
johnfull is offline  
post #58 of 288 Old 06-27-2014, 04:08 AM
Member
 
tikijojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I'm not sure what would totally remove the ghosting on all high-speed shots.
Sometimes, it's in the source material, but professionally broadcast images shouldn't do it.
Try turning the AquoMotion 240 to another setting and try changing the Film Mode.
As for Rlindo, maybe he was just telling me about his calibrations on his parents' SQ set.
He was having trouble with erroneous blue readings and ended up with a very dim picture.
You could send him a private note to get them. I think he used Movie settings.
Did you try the User settings? How do you think they compare to the Standard?
I have tried both settings and seem to prefer the User settings. However I do have to add some backlight and a tad more contrast b/c with a -16 backlight the display becomes very dim. One the of the things I'm also battling is what seems to be a bit of a hazy effect and a bit of washed out colors. I've pumped up Colors to +5 and that has helped, but there's a fine balance between nice color pop and weird looking flesh tones. Overall thus far (3 days of ownership) I'm happy, yet not completely satisfied with the TV.

I guess coming from Plasma displays and still having 1 in my bedroom I just prefer that more saturated look -- not overly saturated b/c then that looks cartoonish.
tikijojo is offline  
post #59 of 288 Old 06-27-2014, 04:16 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
johnfull's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by tikijojo View Post
I have tried both settings and seem to prefer the User settings. However I do have to add some backlight and a tad more contrast b/c with a -16 backlight the display becomes very dim. One the of the things I'm also battling is what seems to be a bit of a hazy effect and a bit of washed out colors. I've pumped up Colors to +5 and that has helped, but there's a fine balance between nice color pop and weird looking flesh tones. Overall thus far (3 days of ownership) I'm happy, yet not completely satisfied with the TV.

I guess coming from Plasma displays and still having 1 in my bedroom I just prefer that more saturated look -- not overly saturated b/c then that looks cartoonish.
I agree with that fine line between good saturation and good fleshtones.
You could try the Dynamic Contrast or the Gamma to combat the washed-out look.
I have seen that, too, but it varies from one scene to the next -- like the TV is calculating
the best way to display one picture and then the next. Sometimes, it gets it wrong!
I have watched plasma and don't care for the dim picture and the flickering.
I do like the color saturation on plasma, though. Hopefully, someone will get some
settings with a bit more 'pop' without turning everything radioactive.
I may try to calibrate the 'Dynamic' setting next, just out of curiosity.
Thanks for the feedback and the suggestions!
johnfull is offline  
post #60 of 288 Old 06-27-2014, 04:30 AM
Member
 
tikijojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I agree with that fine line between good saturation and good fleshtones.
You could try the Dynamic Contrast or the Gamma to combat the washed-out look.
I have seen that, too, but it varies from one scene to the next -- like the TV is calculating
the best way to display one picture and then the next. Sometimes, it gets it wrong!
I have watched plasma and don't care for the dim picture and the flickering.
I do like the color saturation on plasma, though. Hopefully, someone will get some
settings with a bit more 'pop' without turning everything radioactive.
I may try to calibrate the 'Dynamic' setting next, just out of curiosity.
Thanks for the feedback and the suggestions!
I agree with your comment regarding scenes looking good and not-so-good from one to the next. I watch one channel and love the picture. Then flip to another channel and the picture looks either too dim, or too washed out, etc.. I have 26 more days so I'll give it a little more time. I doubt that I would return it, but I am keeping my options open.
tikijojo is offline  
Reply LCD Flat Panel Displays

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off