Yes, 'warm' and 'cool' names get mixed up with the actual Kelvin temperature, where
blue is much hotter than red. We associate yellow and red with warmth and blue with ice.
Sharp has taken a different tack ever since the advent of the so-called white LEDs.
Their Quattron has always been problematic for calibration, since they don't publish any
guide for how the yellow pixel is integrated into the RGB setup and there is no separate
'Y' adjustment like you might imagine. Back to the white LEDs; they are actually a blue LED
with a broad-spectrum yellow phosphor painted on. The high energy of the blue light is
enough to make the yellow glow with the rest of the spectrum, or so the theory went.
Sharp was able to capitalize on the overly-blue light output by linking the Yellow subpixel
to it to obtain white in a secondary manner. They use conventional RGB, but they also use
BY to get to white, which makes for higher brightness levels in white light.
I had a set from 2 years ago that recently was exchanged for the 70" UQ and I can tell you
that they have made progress. The old blue LED color was way too purple -- maybe to get
that higher energy from closer to ultraviolet, but it didn't mix well with green or yellow and
left everything with a dingy ashen look. The new set makes dazzling pure white and the other
colors are much improved as well. Only Cyan suffers from desaturation from the slightly too
violet blue, but it is much better than before.
The problem with calibrations is that they are designed for RGB and ignore the Yellow
component of the light. The white turns out too yellow as a result and all other colors suffer.
A yellow picture is much preferable to a pink picture, which is where most Low temp pictures go.
But these TVs have a lot of yellow to dispose of and the blue has to be cranked up to counteract
it. I don't know how someone could buy a Quattron and not know about the extra yellow pixel.
Arguments have raged, but the majority of people who have tried my calibrations have preferred
them to the dim, yellow results of RGB metering. I use the calibration disc and my eyeballs.
It is very hard to get the right grayscale with just the eyeballs -- like monkeys on a typewriter
eventually composing Shakespeare sonnets by accident, but once it's there, it is super.
I just did a calibration of the Movie mode with the High (blue) setting and all the lemon faces
turned into Kodachrome snapshots. No wonder, since they are taken with Xenon flash!