Sharp UQ17U Calibrations - Page 5 - AVS Forum
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post #121 of 318 Old 07-08-2014, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I tried turning off the Motion Enhancement and it looked ok, but I ended up noticing the strobe
effect when either my eyes moved quickly or an object on the screen did so (or both, of course).
Not a double image, but the stuttering flickering that the LEDs impart.
The Aquomotion 240 makes that go away, so it would be a choice between the strobe or the
double image, I suppose. I haven't seen the double image, so I choose to kill the strobe that I do see.
If the Resolution Enhancement were shut off, the Aquomotion 960 could be tried, but 240 works
for me and I really like the picture improvement from the upscale function. It's a pity, but typical,
that the processor can't handle Aquo 960 and Resolution Enhance at the same time.
No walking and chewing gum yet, which means true 4K TVs are going to really have some issues
for a while...
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post #122 of 318 Old 07-09-2014, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Dynamic Setting update:

Color control can be set to +11 or higher without distorting face tones.
I had set it to the default (0) and was asked why there was no 'pop' to the colors.
I suggested turning up the color for this mode because it's designed to handle it.
Today was my first chance to practice what I preached and found a value of +11
to bring out the colors and still allow faces to look natural.
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post #123 of 318 Old 07-09-2014, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jy12399 View Post
John,

As you know, I am huge supporter of what you're doing here. My picture looks incredible on User. The one thing i've noticed, since i'm a big sports watcher. The trails of balls, whether its baseball, golf, tennis, soccer, football, are very apparent and blurry with Aquamotion 240 turned on. As soon as I turn the motion enhancement mode to off, this effect completely disappears im guessing because the tv returns to its native 240 hz refresh rate. For my taste, I like motion enhancement off. Just thought i'd throw this out there to see if anyone else experienced the same issue.

Great work, though. You've done wonders for my picture. It looks beautiful.
I have experienced the exact thing you describe with my 80 UQ set when watching The World Cup. I would sometimes see double ball, particularly when it was kicked through the air. Upon disabling Aquamotion 240, it was gone. If I recall, I was able to active on 120 hz, low and didn't experience the issue. As Johnfull commented, I too, enjoy the Aquamotion on most content. However, if you see issues like this arise, just tinker with the film modes and refresh rate to eliminate or adjust these to an acceptable performance for your liking. These sets are great in that regard. Lots of options to cater to different viewing styles and preference.
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post #124 of 318 Old 07-09-2014, 08:43 AM
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Great info, really appreciate it. We move into a new house next week where my new 70 UQ is already hanging :-). Like some others I will be sending all components through my Denon 3313 avr, ( Oppo 103, directv, and rarely used ps3, Apple TV) and then outputting one cable to the sharp through a Darbee. Is there one setting recommended for all these different sources? Is anyone using the Oppo to send a 4k signal to tv? I believe the Denon can do it as well...can't wait to get this tv going. Any help much appreciated!! Thanks.

4K. Yay.
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post #125 of 318 Old 07-09-2014, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Congratulations on your new digs, Mattr6!

There are working calibrations for a variety of the Picture Quality Settings, so put them all in and
decide which you like for everyday and maybe another for specific applications.

Mechman has a machine calibrated and hand-crafted color-adjusted MOVIE setting that is popular.
I have posted updates for Standard, User, and Dynamic settings that many have found comfortable.
In terms of color 'pop', I would rank them from least to most: Movie, User, Standard, Dynamic.
Depending on lighting condition and content, you may like one more than the others.
I personally keep returning to USER for its rich color gamma and nice fleshtones.
Standard is crisper, with a steeper fall-off in mid-tone color (like well-lit faces) and more 'pop'.
Dynamic is very accepting of extra Color saturation without distorting fleshtones for maximum 'pop'.
I haven't tried out Mechman's Movie setting in order to rate it, but a quick look finds it smooth
and a little yellow in the whites. This is probably ideal for BluRay, especially those with dark scenes.
Be sure to give your feedback and any tweaks you find helpful. Feel free to customize!
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post #126 of 318 Old 07-11-2014, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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New! MOVIE

Light Sensor (ON)
Contrast (+28)
Brightness (+2)
Color (+4)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)
Resolution (Mode 1)
Motion (Aquo 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)
CMS Hue: All 0 except (Y-5), (B-15)
CMS Saturation: All 0 except (Y-10), (C+15), (B-15)
CMS Value: All 0 except (Y-5)
Color Temperature (HIGH)

10-Point (ON):

1) R-28, G+3, B0
2) R-26, G+8, B+2
3) R-19, G+12, +4
4) R-19, G+13, B+7
5) R-20, G+14, B+9
6) R-18, G+15, B+5
7) R-11, G+18, B+9
8) R-9, G+16, B+7
9) R+14, G+17, B+10
10) All 0

Active Contrast (ADVANCED)
Gamma (0)
Digital Noise (OFF)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Color Gamut (Expanded)
Light Sensor Range (Minimum -11, Maximum +16)

Just in time for the weekend. MOVIE setting has the smoothest Chroma and allows Expanded Gamut.
I took the HIGH temperature and nudged it into a smooth curve with neutral Monochrome shades.
Getting that shade of grayscale that makes the color pictures look good is my main task. In the
monochrome setting, the grays look ever so slightly blue, as opposed to green or pink or yellow.
The highlights of peak white are slightly 'sunny' so that the overall monochrome picture has a lot
of depth from shadow to brightest white. The color picture takes the slightly blue grayscale and
makes fleshtones look more natural, without so much of the yellow that has been plaguing us.
Give it a whirl if you want an alternative to the LOW temperature setting that Mechman used.
Let me know what you think, and happy weekend!

Last edited by johnfull; 07-11-2014 at 09:07 AM.
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post #127 of 318 Old 07-11-2014, 11:09 AM
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Cnet did a calibration of the LC-60UQ17U. Calibration settings were posted in May 2014.

Any interest in making a setting comparison even though any two TV's settings will be a bit different when calibrated.


http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_10...;threadListing
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post #128 of 318 Old 07-11-2014, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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That would be one to compare to Mechman's Low Temperature calibration because it is Low temp, too.
The one I just posted is High Temperature for the sake of contrast.
A lot of us are frustrated by all the yellow in the faces and in the whites and in the shadows.
Starting with the High Temperature takes a swipe at the yellow with the predominance of blue instead.
It takes a minute to adjust to the brightness of a blue-white picture, but the fleshtone rendering is
so much better and the Expanded Color Gamut makes the reds pop, along with brightness everywhere.
Contrast is greatly improved with the higher peak brightness, but I left the Active Contrast on anyway
because of the fluctuation of the gamma from one scene to another without it.
Purists hate blue in the white spectrum, but they don't seem to mind excess yellow. Go figure.
Have you seen Mechman's calibration? Several people have said they like it...
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post #129 of 318 Old 07-11-2014, 11:48 AM
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Just passing by. I do not own a Sharp TV. I own a Sony. However, I am always struck by the color temperature setting that people use and the reason why they use them.

What color temperature does Sharp recommend to get "white" whites? Actually color temperature is a slight bias in color for the entire screen picture.


Sony info on the way Sony sets up their TV color temperature.

Color Temperature
Adjusts the whiteness of the picture.

Cool
Gives white colors a bluish tint.

Neutral
Gives white colors a neutral tint.

Warm 1/Warm 2
Gives white colors a reddish tint. “Warm 2” gives a redder tint than “Warm 1.”

http://docs.esupport.sony.com/imanua...e_2b15_uc.html


All the various Sony scene modes use neutral for color temperature except for Vivid (Cool) and Cinema (Warm1 or Warm2). No one uses the Vivid mode, so that leaves Neutral in most cases and Warm settings for Cinema.
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post #130 of 318 Old 07-11-2014, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, 'warm' and 'cool' names get mixed up with the actual Kelvin temperature, where
blue is much hotter than red. We associate yellow and red with warmth and blue with ice.
Sharp has taken a different tack ever since the advent of the so-called white LEDs.
Their Quattron has always been problematic for calibration, since they don't publish any
guide for how the yellow pixel is integrated into the RGB setup and there is no separate
'Y' adjustment like you might imagine. Back to the white LEDs; they are actually a blue LED
with a broad-spectrum yellow phosphor painted on. The high energy of the blue light is
enough to make the yellow glow with the rest of the spectrum, or so the theory went.
Sharp was able to capitalize on the overly-blue light output by linking the Yellow subpixel
to it to obtain white in a secondary manner. They use conventional RGB, but they also use
BY to get to white, which makes for higher brightness levels in white light.
I had a set from 2 years ago that recently was exchanged for the 70" UQ and I can tell you
that they have made progress. The old blue LED color was way too purple -- maybe to get
that higher energy from closer to ultraviolet, but it didn't mix well with green or yellow and
left everything with a dingy ashen look. The new set makes dazzling pure white and the other
colors are much improved as well. Only Cyan suffers from desaturation from the slightly too
violet blue, but it is much better than before.
The problem with calibrations is that they are designed for RGB and ignore the Yellow
component of the light. The white turns out too yellow as a result and all other colors suffer.
A yellow picture is much preferable to a pink picture, which is where most Low temp pictures go.
But these TVs have a lot of yellow to dispose of and the blue has to be cranked up to counteract
it. I don't know how someone could buy a Quattron and not know about the extra yellow pixel.
Arguments have raged, but the majority of people who have tried my calibrations have preferred
them to the dim, yellow results of RGB metering. I use the calibration disc and my eyeballs.
It is very hard to get the right grayscale with just the eyeballs -- like monkeys on a typewriter
eventually composing Shakespeare sonnets by accident, but once it's there, it is super.
I just did a calibration of the Movie mode with the High (blue) setting and all the lemon faces
turned into Kodachrome snapshots. No wonder, since they are taken with Xenon flash!
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post #131 of 318 Old 07-12-2014, 08:20 AM
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I read the Sharp instruction manual, and "Low Temp" should be on the reddish side.

"Color Temp. (Color Temperature)

For a better white balance, use color temperature correction.
High: White with bluish tone
Mid-High:
Middle:
Mid-Low:
Low: White with reddish tone
Low (Xenon), Low (Carbon arc): Available only when AV
MODE is set to "VINTAGE MOVIE" MODE. Use one of
these items to make picture color become more reddish.
White balance can be adjusted between a maximum of +30
and a minimum of –30 for each color temperature.
R Gain (LO/HI)/G Gain (LO/HI)/B Gain (LO/HI)"

http://files.sharpusa.com/Downloads/...2014_TV_OM.pdf



I missed this before, but the following was noted in the Cnet calibration link posted above. There seems to be somewhat of a "too blue" problem that one must try to compensate for during "calibration" be it a measured or visual calibration. The "Low Temp" setting should be reddish, but it looks to be blueish?

"Calibration notes: While the TV comes with a THX mode the combination of a lack of backlight control in that mode and overly blue grey scale meant I didn't proceed with it during calibration.

The same blue problems occurred when using 10-point color temp control as opposed to just two-point and so I just used two-point.

Color Temp: Low"
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post #132 of 318 Old 07-12-2014, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
New! MOVIE

Light Sensor (ON)
Contrast (+28)
Brightness (+2)
Color (+4)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)
Resolution (Mode 1)
Motion (Aquo 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)
CMS Hue: All 0 except (Y-5), (B-15)
CMS Saturation: All 0 except (Y-10), (C+15), (B-15)
CMS Value: All 0 except (Y-5)
Color Temperature (HIGH)

10-Point (ON):

1) R-28, G+3, B0
2) R-26, G+8, B+2
3) R-19, G+12, +4
4) R-19, G+13, B+7
5) R-20, G+14, B+9
6) R-18, G+15, B+5
7) R-11, G+18, B+9
8) R-9, G+16, B+7
9) R+14, G+17, B+10
10) All 0

Active Contrast (ADVANCED)
Gamma (0)
Digital Noise (OFF)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Color Gamut (Expanded)
Light Sensor Range (Minimum -11, Maximum +16)

Just in time for the weekend. MOVIE setting has the smoothest Chroma and allows Expanded Gamut.
I took the HIGH temperature and nudged it into a smooth curve with neutral Monochrome shades.
Getting that shade of grayscale that makes the color pictures look good is my main task. In the
monochrome setting, the grays look ever so slightly blue, as opposed to green or pink or yellow.
The highlights of peak white are slightly 'sunny' so that the overall monochrome picture has a lot
of depth from shadow to brightest white. The color picture takes the slightly blue grayscale and
makes fleshtones look more natural, without so much of the yellow that has been plaguing us.
Give it a whirl if you want an alternative to the LOW temperature setting that Mechman used.
Let me know what you think, and happy weekend!
Thanks Johnfull! I updated the MOVIE mode with these new settings, late last night. I sampled a few different scenes and content. As far as I could tell, the mode was improved with these settings. I hope to watch a couple of movies this evening and will try this setting. I do like the idea of having a setting that takes advantage of the expanded color gamut.
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post #133 of 318 Old 07-14-2014, 03:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Thanks Johnfull! I updated the MOVIE mode with these new settings, late last night. I sampled a few different scenes and content. As far as I could tell, the mode was improved with these settings. I hope to watch a couple of movies this evening and will try this setting. I do like the idea of having a setting that takes advantage of the expanded color gamut.
Thanks for the feedback. I was out of town all weekend, so I haven't had a chance
to watch a BluRay with the Movie settings yet. I'm sticking with User setting for day-to-day...
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post #134 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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USER setting tweak update:
It's been a long time since I touched the User setting, which is still my favorite for everyday use.
I saw some content with low-level shadow that looked just a little bit Green, so I backed off on
the Temperature LO Green setting from +30 to +27. That should also improve the occasional
discolored shading on poorly lit faces in some content. Not so much change as to effect the
shadow detail, however...
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post #135 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Thanks for the feedback. I was out of town all weekend, so I haven't had a chance
to watch a BluRay with the Movie settings yet. I'm sticking with User setting for day-to-day...
Johnfull...really enjoyed the new MOVIE mode settings. Now that I have experienced most of the settings, I'm noticing some slight issues with flesh tones, particularly, those of a darker ethnicity. They sometimes appear to have a greenish tint. It does seem to differ on random content or channels. This is not a huge, noticeable issue. However, I am currently watching, "I Am Legend". Will Smith does show some greenish skin tint. I know you worked really hard to rid lemon faces on those with a lighter skin tone. Any thoughts, theories, or suggestions on adjustments to help this piece. Anyone else seeing this on the Q+ UQ?
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post #136 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Johnfull...really enjoyed the new MOVIE mode settings. Now that I have experienced most of the settings, I'm noticing some slight issues with flesh tones, particularly, those of a darker ethnicity. They sometimes appear to have a greenish tint. It does seem to differ on random content or channels. This is not a huge, noticeable issue. However, I am currently watching, "I Am Legend". Will Smith does show some greenish skin tint. I know you worked really hard to rid lemon faces on those with a lighter skin tone. Any thoughts, theories, or suggestions on adjustments to help this piece. Anyone else seeing this on the Q+ UQ?
I know what you mean. My 2 year old Quattron had the most gorgeous chocolate skin tones
by the time I had it set up properly. Just this morning, I went into the USER mode and adjusted
the Temperature 2-Point setting LO Green and took it down 3 notches because of a bit of residual
discoloration in shadow areas. We have a local weatherman who is light-skinned black and his
skin tone has been a gauge of the setting thus far. Also, Tamron Hall on MSNBC, who looks
really good most of the time. I keep abandoning the settings other than USER because I get frustrated
with them, rather than fine-tuning them. I think the tactic I'll have to take is to increase the
low-light grayscale red and reduce the green some more. The new MOVIE setting runs with a lot
of blue to allow the LEDs to do their thing and blue helps kill yellow skin tones most of the time.
Feedback like yours is what will drive me back into the setting to refine it further. I do like the
'pop' of it on MOVIE setting. The Expanded Color Gamut might be the downfall of that setting, though,
if it keeps introducing stray colors just for the sake of 'expanding'. Thanks for the input and I will
see what I can do for Will Smith, too!...
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post #137 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I know what you mean. My 2 year old Quattron had the most gorgeous chocolate skin tones
by the time I had it set up properly. Just this morning, I went into the USER mode and adjusted
the Temperature 2-Point setting LO Green and took it down 3 notches because of a bit of residual
discoloration in shadow areas. We have a local weatherman who is light-skinned black and his
skin tone has been a gauge of the setting thus far. Also, Tamron Hall on MSNBC, who looks
really good most of the time. I keep abandoning the settings other than USER because I get frustrated
with them, rather than fine-tuning them. I think the tactic I'll have to take is to increase the
low-light grayscale red and reduce the green some more. The new MOVIE setting runs with a lot
of blue to allow the LEDs to do their thing and blue helps kill yellow skin tones most of the time.
Feedback like yours is what will drive me back into the setting to refine it further. I do like the
'pop' of it on MOVIE setting. The Expanded Color Gamut might be the downfall of that setting, though,
if it keeps introducing stray colors just for the sake of 'expanding'. Thanks for the input and I will
see what I can do for Will Smith, too!...
I do love the pop of your new Movie setting, utilizing Expanded Color Gamut. I will use nothing else when watching Blu-Ray. It is so rich and saturated without looking overblown with color. Love it! I still go back and forth between USER and STANDARD for Directv, depending on content and time of day. I tend to drive myself a bit insane, trying to decide which one I prefer. They both have their advantages. Thanks for all that you do!
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post #138 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
I do love the pop of your new Movie setting, utilizing Expanded Color Gamut. I will use nothing else when watching Blu-Ray. It is so rich and saturated without looking overblown with color. Love it! I still go back and forth between USER and STANDARD for Directv, depending on content and time of day. I tend to drive myself a bit insane, trying to decide which one I prefer. They both have their advantages. Thanks for all that you do!
I looked at online still shots from 'I Am Legend' and I can see how green could creep in.
I'll either get the movie (it may already be in the 'to do' pile) or download some stills and
plug them in with a flash drive to use as a test pattern. Thanks again for the encouragement!


http://wallpapersdepo.net/free-movie...wallpaper-1884
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post #139 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 12:37 PM
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I looked at online still shots from 'I Am Legend' and I can see how green could creep in.
I'll either get the movie (it may already be in the 'to do' pile) or download some stills and
plug them in with a flash drive to use as a test pattern. Thanks again for the encouragement!


http://wallpapersdepo.net/free-movie...wallpaper-1884
Interesting on your findings on green color creep for "I Am Legend". After notifying you about the green tints, I popped in "Hancock" Blu-ray and viewed on Movie mode. No hint of Green in flesh tones of any ethnicity. I do believe it has to do with content and original filming color tones. Regardless, I now believe your MOVIE mode is the standard for my Blu-ray viewing. Now, I'm planning to search through the two threads to ensure I have your most current settings programmed for USER and standard. There have been many tweaks and changes. Just want to make sure I didn't miss any.
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post #140 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Someone told me they preferred the original Standard setting to the re-working
that I did and labeled 'New Standard'. It had been the very first effort, but it had
an appeal. I think that is my only actual duplicate. It's nice to have so many modes
to choose from. User has been remarkably stable in its settings over time.
I think the THX and PC are the only ones I haven't attempted yet.
I think I went back into the original texts and modified settings, so later copies that
are embedded quotes may not be as up-to-date as the originals.
I still plan to try and tweak the Movie mode to reduce the green/yellow problem at
some point -- thanks for pointing out that it is intermittent...
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post #141 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Someone told me they preferred the original Standard setting to the re-working
that I did and labeled 'New Standard'. It had been the very first effort, but it had
an appeal. I think that is my only actual duplicate. It's nice to have so many modes
to choose from. User has been remarkably stable in its settings over time.
I think the THX and PC are the only ones I haven't attempted yet.
I think I went back into the original texts and modified settings, so later copies that
are embedded quotes may not be as up-to-date as the originals.
I still plan to try and tweak the Movie mode to reduce the green/yellow problem at
some point -- thanks for pointing out that it is intermittent...
Movie THX was done 7-1-14 post #89
all your work in helping my eyes very much appreciated
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post #142 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Movie THX was done 7-1-14 post #89
all your work in helping my eyes very much appreciated
Wow! I have really been busy! I knew I had described what I found there, but I forgot I
actually published settings. I find the MOVIE setting to be just as nice in color as the THX
and without the bother of the unchanging backlight designation. Too bad Sharp didn't
convince them that the newfangled way to increase contrast actually works well and makes
for a better experience. Meantime, though, Sharp took what they worked on with THX
and applied the best of it to the Movie setting. Thanks for the reminder, Lukemon!
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post #143 of 318 Old 07-15-2014, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks like the THX setting was pretty quickly done, with a Middle Temperature grayscale
that I didn't refine at all. The Movie setting is crisper and closer to what I like.
I can go back in and do a major bit of work on THX if anyone uses it and finds the current
setting lacking. It could be as bright and crisp as my Movie setting with some more work...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Looks like the THX setting was pretty quickly done, with a Middle Temperature grayscale
that I didn't refine at all. The Movie setting is crisper and closer to what I like.
I can go back in and do a major bit of work on THX if anyone uses it and finds the current
setting lacking. It could be as bright and crisp as my Movie setting with some more work...
Johnfull...I believe that I used your settings on MOVIE THX + smclay's 10 point settings to be the ideal "calibration" for this mode. Is that the best, and most up to date settings we have on this thread for the MOVIE THX mode?
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post #145 of 318 Old 07-16-2014, 02:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Johnfull...I believe that I used your settings on MOVIE THX + smclay's 10 point settings to be the ideal "calibration" for this mode. Is that the best, and most up to date settings we have on this thread for the MOVIE THX mode?
Yes, I believe it is.
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USER setting modification -- after much use and break-in, the Temp HI Red was bumped
up from -8 to -5 to give a bit more life to certain fleshtones. This is an all-purpose setting, so
I avoid the extremes of magenta and green and try to make all sources fall into an acceptable
range. The red will make faces orange if too strong, but this seems about right after break-in.
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post #147 of 318 Old 07-16-2014, 07:39 PM
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I received my 3D glasses today and honestly, was thoroughly unimpressed. The picture does not really produce any pop or sensation the object is near you. That being said, I'm sending the glasses back. I should have adhered to what I've read which is 3D for the most part is a gimmick.
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post #148 of 318 Old 07-16-2014, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
USER setting modification -- after much use and break-in, the Temp HI Red was bumped
up from -8 to -5 to give a bit more life to certain fleshtones. This is an all-purpose setting, so
I avoid the extremes of magenta and green and try to make all sources fall into an acceptable
range. The red will make faces orange if too strong, but this seems about right after break-in.
I'm glad someone sees the break in.....in other circles that can be called ridiculous for a none plasma. I admit I was surprised but I tend to believe it had something to do with getting a larger screen, my Samsung was a mere 47" the Sharp qu is 60".

Best of luck
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post #149 of 318 Old 07-17-2014, 02:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Wink

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Originally Posted by 356c View Post
I'm glad someone sees the break in.....in other circles that can be called ridiculous for a non plasma. I admit I was surprised but I tend to believe it had something to do with getting a larger screen, my Samsung was a mere 47" the Sharp qu is 60".
The whole purpose of all this great technology is to please the eyes!
White LEDs use a phosphor that can change over time, similar to plasma.
They consist of a violet-blue LED with a yellow phosphor.
The LED stays relatively constant, but the phosphor breaks in.
Sharp has been experimenting with a new combination that they may
release next year with their new 4K sets. Stay tuned...

Last edited by johnfull; 07-17-2014 at 04:59 AM.
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by tikijojo View Post
I received my 3D glasses today and honestly, was thoroughly unimpressed. The picture does not really produce any pop or sensation the object is near you. That being said, I'm sending the glasses back. I should have adhered to what I've read which is 3D for the most part is a gimmick.
3D doesn't add anything to the enjoyment of most films, I agree.
At the very end of Despicable Me II, they had a sequence where
the top and bottom frames of the movie were widened to make the
film a smaller slot in the center. Then, some soap bubbles came
floating out and passed in front of the black letterbox bars and looked
as if they were actually in the room! Snowflakes in other films are
the only source of that sensation and very fleeting. For the most
part, you get the feeling that you're watching fish in an aquarium,
with all the depth in the space behind and not in front of the screen.
It's just all the technology is meant to do, I think. Gimmick, yes...
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