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post #151 of 441 Old 07-17-2014, 07:33 AM
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Just wondering what you guys use to "calibrate" your TV sets. Best estimate based on what looks good, or do you use the help of a test disk?

Interesting article about how far you "need" to go with "calibration".


http://www.tlvexp.ca/2012/01/calibra...-made-you-god/
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post #152 of 441 Old 07-17-2014, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post
Just wondering what you guys use to "calibrate" your TV sets. Best estimate based on what looks good, or do you use the help of a test disk?

Interesting article about how far you "need" to go with "calibration".


http://www.tlvexp.ca/2012/01/calibra...-made-you-god/
I use the calibration disc found on this site to balance the grayscale
and to remove obvious clipping in primary or secondary colors.
Beyond that, it is a lot of tinkering to get the white looking clean, but
yielding good fleshtones. An imperceptible amount too much red
will make faces orange, too much blue makes them magenta,
too much green -- well. But combinations of two of the three are
even more interesting. These sets are prone to too much yellow in
fleshtones, which is a combination of the green and the red and the
yellow pixels. More blue will erase too much yellow, but leave lack
of color in its place, so a bit more red is usually called for.
It's very tedious and it is not made easier with a proper gauge since
these sets utilize 4 pixels rather than the 3 that equipment is built
to engage. There is a running discussion on the best method to
achieve pleasing pictures on Quattron TVs. Once fleshtones are
achieved, the rest falls in place.
Regarding your article; neither I nor other amateurs with proper
equipment make any claims on the expertise of professional calibrators.
We are do-it-yourself-ers and simply sharing our results...

Last edited by johnfull; 07-17-2014 at 08:47 AM.
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post #153 of 441 Old 07-17-2014, 05:47 PM
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I absolutely love these settings on my 60UQ. I've had the TV for a month now and implemented the USER, Standard, and Movie modes and the results are fantastic. However, I am not a huge fan of the Aquo240. Just for fun, I tried the Aquo960 when the resolution enhancement was off. I actually didn't mind it. The one question I have is, why does the screen dim significantly when changed to aquo960?
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post #154 of 441 Old 07-17-2014, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
It's very tedious and it is not made easier with a proper gauge since
these sets utilize 4 pixels rather than the 3 that equipment is built
to engage.
I can only hope those who don't have much experience or knowledge will see that and not believe it and actually think these sets with the mythical yellow sub pixel can't be calibrated with equipment or that they'll be off since that is so far from reality I have to just shake my head each time I unfortunately read it.

The user from what I gather has zero experience with equipment on these sets (or any set for that matter) so it's nothing but an assumption on his part and he has made comments before that have clearly indicated he doesn't know how the equipment in question works which is understandable yet it doesn't really make sense for someone who doesn't know how something works to comment on it like they do. I have never performed surgery yet if I were to talk about surgery like I knew what I am talking about (when I don't) would people believe me if I talk in a way that seems convincing or would they believe what an actual surgeon says who is saying something different from what I am? Forums like this should be about sharing information so people can be further educated rather than spreading misinformation.

Using equipment with these sets is really quite easy and you can get a good image but in order to realize that you actually have to use the equipment in question rather than making assumptions of something you have no clue about and disregarding the results and feedback of people who have used the equipment and who keep confirming that your assumptions are wrong which you refuse to accept for whatever reason.

I don't know about others but I actually go by what people who have experience with something say rather than someone who doesn't have experience.

Regarding the link that was posted, any DIYer with equipment can and will do those steps because they know they are required to dial in an image. The result may not be as good or as accurate as a pro (it'll be close if the person knows what they are doing and has decent equipment) yet it will be far better than someone just trying to do something by eye who thinks their eye is superior to measured and calibrated equipment. This is of course if someone is actually trying to calibrate their display rather than tweak it to look how they want it to look. Two totally different things. If someone just wants their display to match some preference they have in their mind then the eye is clearly the way to go.

Last edited by rlindo; 07-17-2014 at 08:26 PM.
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post #155 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 02:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlindo View Post
I can only hope those who don't have much experience or knowledge will see that and not believe it and actually think these sets with the mythical yellow sub pixel can't be calibrated with equipment or that they'll be off since that is so far from reality I have to just shake my head each time I unfortunately read it.

The user from what I gather has zero experience with equipment on these sets (or any set for that matter) so it's nothing but an assumption on his part and he has made comments before that have clearly indicated he doesn't know how the equipment in question works which is understandable yet it doesn't really make sense for someone who doesn't know how something works to comment on it like they do. I have never performed surgery yet if I were to talk about surgery like I knew what I am talking about (when I don't) would people believe me if I talk in a way that seems convincing or would they believe what an actual surgeon says who is saying something different from what I am? Forums like this should be about sharing information so people can be further educated rather than spreading misinformation.

Using equipment with these sets is really quite easy and you can get a good image but in order to realize that you actually have to use the equipment in question rather than making assumptions of something you have no clue about and disregarding the results and feedback of people who have used the equipment and who keep confirming that your assumptions are wrong which you refuse to accept for whatever reason.

I don't know about others but I actually go by what people who have experience with something say rather than someone who doesn't have experience.

Regarding the link that was posted, any DIYer with equipment can and will do those steps because they know they are required to dial in an image. The result may not be as good or as accurate as a pro (it'll be close if the person knows what they are doing and has decent equipment) yet it will be far better than someone just trying to do something by eye who thinks their eye is superior to measured and calibrated equipment. This is of course if someone is actually trying to calibrate their display rather than tweak it to look how they want it to look. Two totally different things. If someone just wants their display to match some preference they have in their mind then the eye is clearly the way to go.
I have to call you on the 'mythical' business, rather than just dismiss
you as a malcontent once again. The yellow pixel is not mythical!
Read up on your parents' TV sometime and you'll see loads of
controversy over its utility, but not one word about its mere existence.
Having used PhotoShop for over a decade and having worked in
color printing for twice that long, I do have a picture in my mind
of what good, balanced color looks like. It is you who reverse
engineers your own perceptions to accomodate your machine readings.
The Quattron sets have driven professional calibrators crazy since
their introduction several years ago. They have driven high priests
of color theory equally batty. It doesn't help that Sharp pulls so
many switches on the public with the system. Originally it was
meant to expand the color gamut, but the change to LED backlight
made the emphasis on brightness instead -- especially for 3D.
But to utilize the non-mythical yellow spectrum and mainain some
balance with the R, G, and B components is proprietary to Sharp.
I will be glad to see the readings that the professional, familiar with
the 4-color system, produces for our new acquaintance. Stay tuned...
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post #156 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 02:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ten80pee View Post
I absolutely love these settings on my 60UQ. I've had the TV for a month now and implemented the USER, Standard, and Movie modes and the results are fantastic. However, I am not a huge fan of the Aquo240. Just for fun, I tried the Aquo960 when the resolution enhancement was off. I actually didn't mind it. The one question I have is, why does the screen dim significantly when changed to aquo960?
The AquoMotion feature is a backlight scan. It turns the LEDs on and
off in coordination with the refresh rate of the LCD panel in front.
When you quadruple the scan rate compared to the refresh rate,
you are spending more time turned off. That's my guess...
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post #157 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 06:51 AM
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10-Point Settings:

1) R -15, G +15, B 0
2) R -15, G +15, B 0
3) R -15, G +12, B 0
4) R -15, G +13, B 0
5) R -15, G +13, B 0
6) R -17, G +11, B 0
7) R -19, G +12, B 0
8) R -23, G +9, B 0
9) R -15, G +1, B 0
10) R -5, G 0, B 0

Could you explain these settings a little better? These are taken from the Standard setting you initially used. My problem is, when attempting to change these settings, I don't have ten different options to change. With 10 pt set to on, I get position, rgb gain and that's it (three different options to change). With the setting off, I get rgb gain lo and hi (six options to change). Are these just ten different options for rgb gain when 10 point is on? I'm just using these settings as an example. I'm actually attempting to change these in movie mode with your current movie settings but I copied and pasted these from standard just as a reference.
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post #158 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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The top slider selects the position #1 - #10.
The lefthand position is #1 and there are 10 steps to the right.
The darkest part of the calibration grayscale corresponds to #1 .
It is confusing -- you're right about that!
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post #159 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I have to call you on the 'mythical' business, rather than just dismiss
you as a malcontent once again. The yellow pixel is not mythical!
Read up on your parents' TV sometime and you'll see loads of
controversy over its utility, but not one word about its mere existence.
Having used PhotoShop for over a decade and having worked in
color printing for twice that long, I do have a picture in my mind
of what good, balanced color looks like. It is you who reverse
engineers your own perceptions to accomodate your machine readings.
The Quattron sets have driven professional calibrators crazy since
their introduction several years ago. They have driven high priests
of color theory equally batty. It doesn't help that Sharp pulls so
many switches on the public with the system. Originally it was
meant to expand the color gamut, but the change to LED backlight
made the emphasis on brightness instead -- especially for 3D.
But to utilize the non-mythical yellow spectrum and mainain some
balance with the R, G, and B components is proprietary to Sharp.
I will be glad to see the readings that the professional, familiar with
the 4-color system, produces for our new acquaintance. Stay tuned...
Hi John,
I have to call you on your post as well. I've used a D3 meter and calman software and was able to dial in my display (2 year old quatron with the yellow subpixel). it didn't drive me batty in the least. yes the display cannot be dialed in to pioneer elite or kuro levels, but it can be dialed in so that grayscale is within spec (well below perceptible levels). colors are off, but no set is perfect.

I've posted my results numerous times. but here they are again.
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post #160 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 01:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greeno View Post
Hi John,
I have to call you on your post as well. I've used a D3 meter and calman software and was able to dial in my display (2 year old quatron with the yellow subpixel). it didn't drive me batty in the least. yes the display cannot be dialed in to pioneer elite or kuro levels, but it can be dialed in so that grayscale is within spec (well below perceptible levels). colors are off, but no set is perfect.

I've posted my results numerous times. but here they are again.
Thanks. I was referring to another calibrator, Otto Pylot:

lc-60le845U Calabration

"What you are probably experiencing is the "dreaded yellow pixel" problem that can't be overcome with just using a disk alone to adjust your panel. And due to component tolerance differences between tv's, it can be really bad when borrowing another's settings, even from the same model and build line. Properly calibrating these tv's can be achieved with quality meters, pattern generators, and a lot of time. They are a bit more challenging than other tv's but once properly calibrated, they look really good"

It's impossible to prove a negative, but this seems to be confirmation that I am not alone in
my assessment. Also, the vast majority of folks who have come here have preferred the
sight-based settings to the gauge-based settings. Not a popularity contest, but that seems to
indicate 'trouble' -- you say your colors are off like it's not big deal. It's the most important thing!
What I'd like to see is someone knowledgably using a gauge to get a non-green/yellow result.
Until then, I am forced to waste hours and hours of my time trying to get the colors right.
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post #161 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greeno View Post
Hi John,
I have to call you on your post as well. I've used a D3 meter and calman software and was able to dial in my display (2 year old quatron with the yellow subpixel). it didn't drive me batty in the least. yes the display cannot be dialed in to pioneer elite or kuro levels, but it can be dialed in so that grayscale is within spec (well below perceptible levels). colors are off, but no set is perfect.

I've posted my results numerous times. but here they are again.

Are the colors still off?

Can we assume that you calibrated the set once, and that you have never touched it up since that calibration was performed?
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post #162 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post
Are the colors still off?

Can we assume that you calibrated the set once, and that you have never touched it up since that calibration was performed?
I think it was Mechman who used a gauge, but then resorted to massive re-working of
the Tint control as well as CMS to get an acceptable picture. We should all appreciate everyone's
efforts and I mean no disrespect to Greeno -- he posted some fine graphics of his results.
People can judge for themselves. I don't blame anyone for their results, whether machine or
by eyeball. These sets are complicated and we need all the help we can get. There is someone
who is getting a paid calibration very soon and he's agreed to post those as well. Peace!
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post #163 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Thanks. I was referring to another calibrator, Otto Pylot:

lc-60le845U Calabration

"What you are probably experiencing is the "dreaded yellow pixel" problem that can't be overcome with just using a disk alone to adjust your panel. And due to component tolerance differences between tv's, it can be really bad when borrowing another's settings, even from the same model and build line. Properly calibrating these tv's can be achieved with quality meters, pattern generators, and a lot of time. They are a bit more challenging than other tv's but once properly calibrated, they look really good"

It's impossible to prove a negative, but this seems to be confirmation that I am not alone in
my assessment. Also, the vast majority of folks who have come here have preferred the
sight-based settings to the gauge-based settings. Not a popularity contest, but that seems to
indicate 'trouble' -- you say your colors are off like it's not big deal. It's the most important thing!
What I'd like to see is someone knowledgably using a gauge to get a non-green/yellow result.
Until then, I am forced to waste hours and hours of my time trying to get the colors right.
Hi John, Ah yes I remember that post. I recall reading it and not really knowing what to make of it as it was not my experience. Best, jeff
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post #164 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Palmer_Cass View Post
Are the colors still off?

Can we assume that you calibrated the set once, and that you have never touched it up since that calibration was performed?
Hi, I'm not quite sure what you're asking. I calibrated it several times during the first year, but have not touched it in at least 1.5 years. My eyes are pretty critical I don't see appreciable drift yet. maybe this winter when I have some time, I'll check and see it it needs a touch up. my plasma panny ST30 did drift, but it took a couple of years.

Best,
jeff
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post #165 of 441 Old 07-18-2014, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I think it was Mechman who used a gauge, but then resorted to massive re-working of
the Tint control as well as CMS to get an acceptable picture. We should all appreciate everyone's
efforts and I mean no disrespect to Greeno -- he posted some fine graphics of his results.
People can judge for themselves. I don't blame anyone for their results, whether machine or
by eyeball. These sets are complicated and we need all the help we can get. There is someone
who is getting a paid calibration very soon and he's agreed to post those as well. Peace!
if one goes back to the 2012 model year threads you'll see that john and I go back that far. he has a good eye and is able to produce calibrations that people like, for even some of the really untameable presets. game mode on my set is just way too blue. but that's my choice to use my meter and software and calibrate the set to the spec. I'm glad others are enjoying their sets and finding settings that either suit them or that they can tweak to suit them. (this makes for happy owners!). best, jeff
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post #166 of 441 Old 07-20-2014, 05:24 AM - Thread Starter
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More Quattron reading, for those who believe their gauges rather than their eyes:

http://www.**************.com/led-lc...l#.U8u0DP28OSF

rmongiovi
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[IMG]http://**************.com/images/icons/icon1.png[/IMG] Re: Official Sharp Elite PRO-xxX5FD Owners' Thread

Rogo, you made this statement:

[IMG]http://www.**************.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png[/IMG] Originally Posted by rogo [IMG]http://www.**************.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png[/IMG]
If you overlap a red flashlight and a green flashlight and compare that to a yellow flashlight, you will see them as identical. Your brain will too.



Absolutely. You and I both agree and have both stipulated this. Where we differ is that apparently your definition of yellow light is "light that looks yellow", whereas my definition is "light that is composed of photons from a particular range of frequencies which we call the yellow part of the visible spectrum."

But I don't think it's consistent for you to use a definition of color that is based on the human physiological perception of color and then say that the primary colors are based on some property that's inherent to light. The three primary colors together produce white because, as you say, they stimulate the human eye's cones in the same manner that white light does. But if we had a different number of cones we would have to use different primaries to achieve that same identical stimulus and appear the same as a continuous spectrum.

Your quote from physicsclassroom seems needlessly pedantic to me. Of course it's true that "light is technically not colored at all. It has a wavelength." In fact "technically" it isn't light at all, it's just part of the electromagnetic spectrum. We call it light because it's that part of the spectrum that we can see. Likewise, there's a particular part of the visible spectrum that we call yellow. We do that because it stimulates both our red and green cones and we perceive it as yellow. So while it is true that there are combinations of other frequencies of light that stimulate those cones in the same way and which we also perceive as yellow, that combined light still in reality is not in the frequency range that has been given the name yellow. Perception is not reality.

But let's stick to your definition of yellow and talk about the stimulus of the red and green cones. The rec.709 standard tells you how to translate the R and G numbers of the input into how much stimulus those red and green cones are supposed to receive in order for us to perceive the intended shade of yellow.

In a non-quattron TV, that translates directly into a luminance for the red and green pixels. But in a quattron there are two sources of stimulus for those red and green cones. There are the red and green sub-pixels and there is the sub-pixel that emits actual yellow light which is going to stimulate the red and green cones simultaneously. The problem for quattron is that it has to display colors that are not simply yellow. Since as your picture shows the response curves of all the cones overlap you can't just move all the stimulus from the red and green sub-pixels over to the yellow. Some of the red is needed to go with blue to make magenta, and some of the green is needed to go with blue to make cyan. So with an input signal that has non-zero values for all of R, G, and B it isn't clear to me how you decide how much the yellow sub-pixel should contribute versus red and green.

So the computation for quattron is more complex. They have to decide how bright the red, green, and yellow sub-pixels have to be in order to achieve the stimulus called for by rec.709. It seems to me that the yellow balancing act they're forced into is almost certainly why cyan is wrong. Since green is the primary which has the largest perceived brightness, I would expect errors in the luminance of the green sub-pixel to cause the biggest effect. If they move too much of the stimulus of the green cone from the green sub-pixel to the yellow, they would be reducing frequencies that overlap with blue (since yellow light doesn't overlap with the blue cone as much as green light does) and cyan would see the biggest effect.


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Hi, I have some questions with a 60UQ17U, I changed the settings according to this page, but I observe clouding on the screen, is normal on this model?
There are some procedure to correct it?

Thanks in advanced for your answers !!
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post #168 of 441 Old 07-20-2014, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmoebius View Post
Hi, I have some questions with a 60UQ17U, I changed the settings according to this page, but I observe clouding on the screen, is normal on this model?
There are some procedure to correct it?

Thanks in advanced for your answers !!
Just to be sure -- do you mean the dark screen shows cloudiness or do you
mean that a picture seems to have a haze over it? The first is solved by using
the Light Sensor and the second is solved by using the Active Contrast.
I might be able to help more if I know more...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
The top slider selects the position #1 - #10.
The lefthand position is #1 and there are 10 steps to the right.
The darkest part of the calibration grayscale corresponds to #1 .
It is confusing -- you're right about that!
Oh man I feel like a doof lol. Changed this last night and movie mode looks spot on. Great job!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ten80pee View Post
Oh man I feel like a doof lol. Changed this last night and movie mode looks spot on. Great job!
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New to this forum and tried the "user" settings yesterday evening. I must say the PQ was much better than what I had. However, the picture on the show I was watching seemed very dark and black levels were hard to make out. I thought the advanced lighting was supposed to accommodate the differences between a dark room and lit room by adjusting the brightness on the screen.

Picked up the TV over the weekend and driving myself mad trying to adjust to meet the quality of the Panny plasma I had for many years. I have the LC60TQ.

Thanks for any help on clarifying what the advanced lighting actually does.
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post #172 of 441 Old 07-23-2014, 01:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billyob View Post
New to this forum and tried the "user" settings yesterday evening. I must say the PQ was much better than what I had. However, the picture on the show I was watching seemed very dark and black levels were hard to make out. I thought the advanced lighting was supposed to accommodate the differences between a dark room and lit room by adjusting the brightness on the screen.

Picked up the TV over the weekend and driving myself mad trying to adjust to meet the quality of the Panny plasma I had for many years. I have the LC60TQ.

Thanks for any help on clarifying what the advanced lighting actually does.
Did you try a different minimum setting on the Light Sensor? It can be boosted all the way
up to one step below the maximum if needed. I agree that a bright room picture never seems
to use the total capabilities of the set. You can also adjust the backlight manually if need be.
The algorithm seems to emphasize maximum total contrast rather than any one feature, like
black level or detail. Also, you might shut off the Active Contrast on some sources to avoid
crushing blacks.
Also, keep in mind, the User setting can be tailored for each input.
You might try the Movie setting for comparison of dark detail.
Let us know if you hit on a good combination...

Last edited by johnfull; 07-23-2014 at 01:53 AM.
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post #173 of 441 Old 07-23-2014, 05:42 AM
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Active contrast is off, but automatic light sensor is on...are those the correct settings? Did not think that backlight could be adjusted when the auto light sensor is on..
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post #174 of 441 Old 07-23-2014, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billyob View Post
Active contrast is off, but automatic light sensor is on...are those the correct settings? Did not think that backlight could be adjusted when the auto light sensor is on..
Mine is the UQ17U model and you can't adjust the backlight when
the light sensor is on. I had a 2012 set that allowed both to work
together and yours might allow it, too. If so, you can find the
combination that you prefer and raise the Minimum on the last page
of the Advanced Settings -- Light Sensor Range to allow dark detail
to be seen. I set the black level with the calibration disc with the
settings I posted, but each set may vary and source material may
need a little boost in Brightness or Backlight or Light Sensor Minimum.
Those are the three adjustments that will effect dark detail, other
than Gamma, which you can change, but will probably get washed-
out contrast or even more black crushing if you move off the 0.
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post #175 of 441 Old 07-23-2014, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Mine is the UQ17U model and you can't adjust the backlight when
the light sensor is on. I had a 2012 set that allowed both to work
together and yours might allow it, too. If so, you can find the
combination that you prefer and raise the Minimum on the last page
of the Advanced Settings -- Light Sensor Range to allow dark detail
to be seen. I set the black level with the calibration disc with the
settings I posted, but each set may vary and source material may
need a little boost in Brightness or Backlight or Light Sensor Minimum.
Those are the three adjustments that will effect dark detail, other
than Gamma, which you can change, but will probably get washed-
out contrast or even more black crushing if you move off the 0.
Thank you, I'll try those.
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post #176 of 441 Old 07-23-2014, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Probably start with increasing the Light Sensor Range minimum setting on the last page.
That will allow it to continue to be automatically controlled.
Realize, too, that you won't get the black level of the plasma on
any LCD TV. Lots more brightness, though...

Last edited by johnfull; 07-23-2014 at 03:07 PM.
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post #177 of 441 Old 08-01-2014, 11:24 AM
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Its been real busy at work lately so havnt had time to tinker... But now its vacation time :-)

I have to admit I have lost my self in all the different settings... :-) I think I like some of the earlier settings more but cant remember which and why... Just have to dive into them again I guess.

It would be awesome to just have one setting to rule them all though. I only use my 70UQ10 for watching encodes from my HTPC and playing Xbox One/360 both via HDMI through my Sony STR-DN1040 reciever.

One thing that I have been wondering a long time. Is there a particular reason why you never use resolution mode 2 (the one for higher resolution...)?
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post #178 of 441 Old 08-01-2014, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QKN View Post
Its been real busy at work lately so havnt had time to tinker... But now its vacation time :-)

I have to admit I have lost my self in all the different settings... :-) I think I like some of the earlier settings more but cant remember which and why... Just have to dive into them again I guess.

It would be awesome to just have one setting to rule them all though. I only use my 70UQ10 for watching encodes from my HTPC and playing Xbox One/360 both via HDMI through my Sony STR-DN1040 reciever.

One thing that I have been wondering a long time. Is there a particular reason why you never use resolution mode 2 (the one for higher resolution...)?
The manual says Resolution Enhanced Mode 2 is for still photos.
My all-round setting is the USER, but Standard is good -- someone prefers my earlier Standard,
but I found it a bit greenish after my TV broke in some. You can plug in settings for all
the different selections and choose for yourself. USER has to be input for each device input,
but the rest are global for all inputs. There are several other choices for MOVIE mode out
there that were calibrated with a gauge. I find them to be too yellow/green, but some folks
find them to be what they want. Happy browsing!
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post #179 of 441 Old 08-02-2014, 04:01 PM
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Good settings

I have had the UQ for about 2 months. For the first month, I struggled to find settings that I liked. Colors just did not look normal, and I'm pretty picky. I tried the USER settings posted by Johnfull, and have been quite happy with them. I have used them for the last several weeks. The only complaint that I have is that I see two golf balls that others have reported. Colors look great. Thanks for posting the settings!
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post #180 of 441 Old 08-02-2014, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EBinMD View Post
I have had the UQ for about 2 months. For the first month, I struggled to find settings that I liked. Colors just did not look normal, and I'm pretty picky. I tried the USER settings posted by Johnfull, and have been quite happy with them. I have used them for the last several weeks. The only complaint that I have is that I see two golf balls that others have reported. Colors look great. Thanks for posting the settings!

Glad you like the settings -- you can tinker around with the Motion Enhancement settings to improve
the rapid motion. One thing is you can't go higher than the 240 AquoMotion without disabling the
Resolution Enhancement -- I guess the processor can't do both at the same time above that level.
You could try the higher settings and decide which you can live without more at your viewing distance.
Let us know what you figure out because others have made comments about ghost images during
golf in particular. The colors won't be affected by the Motion settings. Good luck!
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