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post #181 of 268 Old 08-10-2014, 10:39 AM
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Thanks Johnfull for these great settings. I used the "user" calibration and I'm very pleased with it so far. I actually couldn't believe the difference it made when compared to "out of the box"--it's like an entirely different TV now.

Just 2 questions though--I read this thread but could have missed it somewhere... what is the monochrome on/off? I don't think I saw what your selection was. Also, occasionally I notice that if someone on TV is wearing black (or dark) clothing, then I cannot see any detail and it sorta just looks like a dark blob if that makes any sense.

For what it's worth, I have AT&T Uverse service and my room is not very bright--just a few can/recessed lights in the ceiling but not anywhere near the TV. The room has windows but we usually are watching at night.

Thanks again!
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post #182 of 268 Old 08-10-2014, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedgta View Post
Thanks Johnfull for these great settings. I used the "user" calibration and I'm very pleased with it so far. I actually couldn't believe the difference it made when compared to "out of the box"--it's like an entirely different TV now.

Just 2 questions though--I read this thread but could have missed it somewhere... what is the monochrome on/off? I don't think I saw what your selection was. Also, occasionally I notice that if someone on TV is wearing black (or dark) clothing, then I cannot see any detail and it sorta just looks like a dark blob if that makes any sense.

For what it's worth, I have AT&T Uverse service and my room is not very bright--just a few can/recessed lights in the ceiling but not anywhere near the TV. The room has windows but we usually are watching at night.

Thanks again!
I still use the User setting exclusively, except for internet YouTube, where it switches to Standard.
The Monochrome 'ON' setting will kill the color signal and make a black and white image.
You want to have it off for all viewing, unless you want to render something black and white.
It's useful during calibration because more shades of gray can be seen to achieve a clean grayscale.
As for the crushed blacks -- I see that sometimes, too, and I think the Active Contrast causes
some of it (some of it may be the source material). Using Active Contrast is optional -- I turned it
on late in the calibration process because some scenes in some sources were appearing washed
out for no apparent reason. Other users had noticed that, too, so we opted to try out the
Active Contrast, which did fix that problem, but at a price of crushing some dark images a bit.
You can either turn it off or bump up the brightness a little to see if you keep a good crisp image.
Also, you can tinker with the minimum setting on the Light Sensor to see how much brighter you
might want the image overall. My setting starts with a dark room, but I mostly use it in bright
daylight. A higher minimum will give more power in the in-between situations that you describe.
The only settings to leave alone are the Color Temp calibrations -- feel free to adjust anything
else without fear of losing the overall color fidelity and clean whites and good fleshtones.
Also, remember that each input is different for User and can be tailored differently.
I hope you hit on the sweet spot!
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post #183 of 268 Old 08-10-2014, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I still use the User setting exclusively, except for internet YouTube, where it switches to Standard.
The Monochrome 'ON' setting will kill the color signal and make a black and white image.
You want to have it off for all viewing, unless you want to render something black and white.
It's useful during calibration because more shades of gray can be seen to achieve a clean grayscale.
As for the crushed blacks -- I see that sometimes, too, and I think the Active Contrast causes
some of it (some of it may be the source material). Using Active Contrast is optional -- I turned it
on late in the calibration process because some scenes in some sources were appearing washed
out for no apparent reason. Other users had noticed that, too, so we opted to try out the
Active Contrast, which did fix that problem, but at a price of crushing some dark images a bit.
You can either turn it off or bump up the brightness a little to see if you keep a good crisp image.
Also, you can tinker with the minimum setting on the Light Sensor to see how much brighter you
might want the image overall. My setting starts with a dark room, but I mostly use it in bright
daylight. A higher minimum will give more power in the in-between situations that you describe.
The only settings to leave alone are the Color Temp calibrations -- feel free to adjust anything
else without fear of losing the overall color fidelity and clean whites and good fleshtones.
Also, remember that each input is different for User and can be tailored differently.
I hope you hit on the sweet spot!
Ok, I just noticed my active contrast was set to "off" already since page 1 of this thread said "off or on". My choices are "Advanced, Standard, or Off". Which one are you using that you referred to above? I would rather turn it on and then tweak my brightness or light sensor.

Thanks again!
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post #184 of 268 Old 08-11-2014, 01:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm using it in the 'Advanced' mode.
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post #185 of 268 Old 08-21-2014, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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New!

Dynamic Mode.

Auto Sensor On
(backlight adjustment disabled when sensor is on)
Contrast +30*
Brightness +1
Color +10
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Resolution Mode 1
Motion Aquo240
Clear Picture Off
CMS Hue R0,Y-10,G+15,C+3,B-30,M0
CMS Saturation All 0 except R-5, Y-20, C+30, B-10, M-10
CMS Value All 0 except C+30, M-10
Active Contrast Advanced
Color Temperature Mid-High
2-Point Settings:
All 0 except Red Hi -10, Blue Hi +1
Gamma 0
Film Advanced +10
Digital Noise Off
Light Sensor Range +13 Max, 0 Min

This is the cleanest picture I've gotten so far, with strong color, while maintaining skin tones.
Let me know what you think!

Last edited by johnfull; 09-25-2014 at 12:18 PM.
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post #186 of 268 Old 09-01-2014, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone tried the new Dynamic setting I posted?
It is surprisingly versatile -- I've used it for YouTube as well as satellite and BluRay films.
I have been modifying it with minor tweaks in the CMS without reporting the changes -- just edits.
It seems to run on the bleeding edge of the TVs capabilities in bright daylight, but runs a nice
image in dark room setting. It's got the best fleshtones of any setting I've tried.
I might turn down the maximum Light Sensor setting, but I hate to do that if I can avoid it.
Anyhow, I am now using Dyanamic exclusively, rather than User.
The newest settings are input on the first page of this thread at the top of the page, as of today...
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post #187 of 268 Old 09-01-2014, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Anyone tried the new Dynamic setting I posted?
It is surprisingly versatile -- I've used it for YouTube as well as satellite and BluRay films.
I have been modifying it with minor tweaks in the CMS without reporting the changes -- just edits.
It seems to run on the bleeding edge of the TVs capabilities in bright daylight, but runs a nice
image in dark room setting. It's got the best fleshtones of any setting I've tried.
I might turn down the maximum Light Sensor setting, but I hate to do that if I can avoid it.
Anyhow, I am now using Dyanamic exclusively, rather than User.
The newest settings are input on the first page of this thread at the top of the page, as of today...
What can i say your a genius I also now use only Dynamic mode for me its as close to perfect I'll beable to see
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post #188 of 268 Old 09-01-2014, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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It's as if these sets were 'born to run', as The Boss would put it.
It is nice to see the full dynamic range, from black to blinding, handled so well.
Glad you like it, too!
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post #189 of 268 Old 09-01-2014, 07:50 PM
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John... Its a great setting however the reds are a bit toward pink.. What can i adjust to bring them back ? Should i lower the magenta ?Thanks again .....
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post #190 of 268 Old 09-02-2014, 02:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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John... Its a great setting however the reds are a bit toward pink.. What can i adjust to bring them back ? Should i lower the magenta ?Thanks again .....
The magenta is the last thing I have been working on.
Just yesterday, I tried lowering the 'Value' (brightness) to make it not turn pink.
Just before that, I reduced the Saturation to keep the highlights from turning blue.
I will keep working on the Saturation and Value of the magenta to get it looking natural.
Another strategy is to make the magenta Hue less blue to begin with so the highlights stay true.
The red is ok, I think -- the stripes of a flag are bright and saturated.
You can see what effect more Saturation and/or Value has on your reds and magentas.
Let me know if you hit on a better 'sweet spot' where the color doesn't distort or fade.
Thanks!
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post #191 of 268 Old 09-04-2014, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Dynamic tweak -- Light Sensor Maximum pulled down to +13.
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post #192 of 268 Old 09-06-2014, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Dynamic tweak -- Light Sensor Maximum pulled down to +13.
Johnfull...I have been using your Dynamic settings. I have been going between this and USER setting on most content. However, I have noticed on some content has made male actors lips appear they are wearing a pink lipstick. In those instsnces, I changed back to USER. I plan to modify the Dynamic setting with your recent tweaks. I can't wait to see how this impacts the setting. Love it. Thanks again.
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post #193 of 268 Old 09-06-2014, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Ewww -- I hope it's not hot pink! Dynamic is generating far fewer yellow and green-tinged faces, though. Maybe a tradeoff?
The internal program on Dynamic emphasizes contrast and color difference. I've noticed some 'contouring' on some of the
lousy content on my satellite service, where a cheek will be brown, but the nose is pink. I don't know what to do about that,
since there is not a 10-point setting for Dynamic to fine-tune the blue and green to keep fleshtones more accurate.
It's an ongoing struggle. Let me know what you think of the last round of changes. I'll gather up steam to plunge ahead soon.
Meantime, I might take on Standard again and give it a thorough 10-point workout, now that mornings are dark enough for it.
I think I remember the Standard being your setting of choice at one point? Anyway, I've learned a lot about the TV's abilities
from using the bleeding-edge Dynamic setting. Stay tuned, and thanks for any and all feedback!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Ewww -- I hope it's not hot pink! Dynamic is generating far fewer yellow and green-tinged faces, though. Maybe a tradeoff?
The internal program on Dynamic emphasizes contrast and color difference. I've noticed some 'contouring' on some of the
lousy content on my satellite service, where a cheek will be brown, but the nose is pink. I don't know what to do about that,
since there is not a 10-point setting for Dynamic to fine-tune the blue and green to keep fleshtones more accurate.
It's an ongoing struggle. Let me know what you think of the last round of changes. I'll gather up steam to plunge ahead soon.
Meantime, I might take on Standard again and give it a thorough 10-point workout, now that mornings are dark enough for it.
I think I remember the Standard being your setting of choice at one point? Anyway, I've learned a lot about the TV's abilities
from using the bleeding-edge Dynamic setting. Stay tuned, and thanks for any and all feedback!
Ha ha. No, not Hot pink. Actually, it wasn't SO unbearable. It was just enough to notice that the color was definitely saturated. I'm sure that some color enthusiasts on here will balk at the Dynamic setting, because it's not to industry spec. Regardless, I enjoy the pop on certain programming and like the options of the different settings to choose from, based on the content. I have not had the chance to update your Dynamic tweaks yet. If I read your post correctly, you made changes or tweaks to your newest Dynamic setting? At glance, I wasn't able to tell what you tweaked. I will have to compare the settings on my TV to this thread and determine changes when I get off work this afternoon.

You are correct, I do love the Standard setting. I haD become more partial to USER because of its stability with various content. I would love for you to do some more tweaking to Standard. I do love it's brightness and Pop.

I will report back when I update Dynamic. My niece is in town and we watched "Frozen" via Apple TV last night with Dynamic setting engaged. My niece exclaimed to my sister, "Mommy, they are SO pretty on Uncle Rodney's TV"!! She definitely approved.
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post #195 of 268 Old 09-07-2014, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
Ha ha. No, not Hot pink. Actually, it wasn't SO unbearable. It was just enough to notice that the color was definitely saturated. I'm sure that some color enthusiasts on here will balk at the Dynamic setting, because it's not to industry spec. Regardless, I enjoy the pop on certain programming and like the options of the different settings to choose from, based on the content. I have not had the chance to update your Dynamic tweaks yet. If I read your post correctly, you made changes or tweaks to your newest Dynamic setting? At glance, I wasn't able to tell what you tweaked. I will have to compare the settings on my TV to this thread and determine changes when I get off work this afternoon.

You are correct, I do love the Standard setting. I haD become more partial to USER because of its stability with various content. I would love for you to do some more tweaking to Standard. I do love it's brightness and Pop.

I will report back when I update Dynamic. My niece is in town and we watched "Frozen" via Apple TV last night with Dynamic setting engaged. My niece exclaimed to my sister, "Mommy, they are SO pretty on Uncle Rodney's TV"!! She definitely approved.


Animated programming like Frozen looks really good on Dynamic Fixed....
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post #196 of 268 Old 09-07-2014, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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That's a touching story about your niece!
As for the Dynamic setting, I got the white balance set early on and some of the CMS settings.
Then I went in and tweaked the CMS settings to mostly get the fleshtones as accurate as possible.
I did this with edits, so depending on when you updated, you may have gotten all of them.
The last thing I did was to pull down the maximum value on the Light Sensor range to 13 from 16.
In extremely strong light, the set was showing signs of overall clipping, and I don't want that.
Dynamic sacrifices some highlight detail (white shirt collars, etc.), but manages to keep things in
balance overall. I will start on the Standard setting (yet again and from scratch) soon.
Standard is an energy star setting, which means the algorithm finds ways to get the brightest
possible picture with the least amount of energy -- as if LEDs were somehow energy hogs!
But the way it does this is to use the blue-yellow the the maximum, which means colors will
look like shades of gray till they get up to a threshold where they pop. It has its own aesthetic.
I don't think there is any more that I can do to the Dynamic or User settings to improve them, but
if anyone finds a problem and a cure, I'm all ears!
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post #197 of 268 Old 09-07-2014, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue comet View Post
Animated programming like Frozen looks really good on Dynamic Fixed....
Frozen looked good in 3D as well.
The 3D setting allows only minor adjustments this year, so it is
fortunate that it is good straight out of the box...
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post #198 of 268 Old 09-08-2014, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
That's a touching story about your niece!
As for the Dynamic setting, I got the white balance set early on and some of the CMS settings.
Then I went in and tweaked the CMS settings to mostly get the fleshtones as accurate as possible.
I did this with edits, so depending on when you updated, you may have gotten all of them.
The last thing I did was to pull down the maximum value on the Light Sensor range to 13 from 16.
In extremely strong light, the set was showing signs of overall clipping, and I don't want that.
Dynamic sacrifices some highlight detail (white shirt collars, etc.), but manages to keep things in
balance overall. I will start on the Standard setting (yet again and from scratch) soon.
Standard is an energy star setting, which means the algorithm finds ways to get the brightest
possible picture with the least amount of energy -- as if LEDs were somehow energy hogs!
But the way it does this is to use the blue-yellow the the maximum, which means colors will
look like shades of gray till they get up to a threshold where they pop. It has its own aesthetic.
I don't think there is any more that I can do to the Dynamic or User settings to improve them, but
if anyone finds a problem and a cure, I'm all ears!
Johnfull...updated your latest DYNAMIC settings and watched the "So You Think You Can Dance" finale on my Direct TV DVR. I have no issues. The setting looks amazing on satellite. I can't wait to see how it fares on other content. Right now, it's my new default setting.
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post #199 of 268 Old 09-09-2014, 01:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Great!
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post #200 of 268 Old 09-13-2014, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
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The magenta is the last thing I have been working on.
Just yesterday, I tried lowering the 'Value' (brightness) to make it not turn pink.
Just before that, I reduced the Saturation to keep the highlights from turning blue.
I will keep working on the Saturation and Value of the magenta to get it looking natural.
Another strategy is to make the magenta Hue less blue to begin with so the highlights stay true.
The red is ok, I think -- the stripes of a flag are bright and saturated.
You can see what effect more Saturation and/or Value has on your reds and magentas.
Let me know if you hit on a better 'sweet spot' where the color doesn't distort or fade.
Thanks!
Thank you for all of the great posts on calibration settings. I recently received a Sharp LC60SQ15U as a warranty replacement for a Sharp LC60LE650, and am having a hard time finding calibration suggestions for the 60SQ15U. The closest thing I have been able to find are the posts by johnfull, which are greatly appreciated. However, before trying to use, I wanted an opinion if the settings could be applied to the SQ model as well as the UQ models? Thanks very much.
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post #201 of 268 Old 09-13-2014, 03:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, a number of people have expressed satisfaction with models other than the UQ.
I would recommend the USER and the DYNAMIC, since I spent more time getting them right.
Feel free to make minor adjustments and remember, you can always re-set to factory settings.
Good luck and give feedback for the rest of us!
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post #202 of 268 Old 09-13-2014, 08:31 AM
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Sharp or Samsung

I just bought the LC-70TQ15U from Best Buy for $2,199. I was between that and the Samsung UN65H7150 for $1,999. A big part of the reason I bought the Sharp was because it was 5 inches bigger for relatively the same price. I am a little worried that the Sharp is going to be significantly darker than the Samsung and not as glossy looking as the Samsung. Any thoughts? Words of encouragement? When the Sharp arrives, I'll try to implement John's settings for optimal use.
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post #203 of 268 Old 09-13-2014, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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The Sharp has a semi-matte screen that transmits a very detailed and crisp picture.
Using the light sensor, it can adapt to extremely bright conditions with ease.
Keep us posted on your experience and good luck!
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post #204 of 268 Old 09-13-2014, 05:47 PM
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Yes, a number of people have expressed satisfaction with models other than the UQ.
I would recommend the USER and the DYNAMIC, since I spent more time getting them right.
Feel free to make minor adjustments and remember, you can always re-set to factory settings.
Good luck and give feedback for the rest of us!
The USER settings are fantastic, thank you very much. A HUGE improvement over any of the standard AV Mode settings. I'll also try out the Dynamic settings, although at first glance the picture is a little too bright. Thanks again for all of the work you put into creating the settings.
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post #205 of 268 Old 09-14-2014, 04:22 AM - Thread Starter
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post #206 of 268 Old 09-16-2014, 02:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone but me bothered by magenta clipping?
TV female personalities wearing hot pink that glows so strongly that it turns blue.
I can pull down the saturation of the magenta, or dial its tint to make it redder, or ignore it.
I'm not sure what is driving the craze towards out-of-gamut pink, but I hate it.
This applies only to the Dynamic setting, which operates out on the frontier of the TV's capabilities...
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post #207 of 268 Old 09-17-2014, 11:54 PM
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johnfull - like so many others, I wanted to say thank you for all of the insight and dedicated responses. After a two week struggle with Best Buy, I finally brought home a LC-60TQ15U tonight (a long, irritating story which eventually worked out in my favor). After a few hours of monkeying around I stumbled upon this thread. Now it's 11:30pm and I've been sitting here for three hours playing with the settings.

I had no idea how to do any of this and I was the guy who couldn't mix paints in middle school art class. Football looks amazing on the USER setting. I may lean towards the Dynamic setting for non-sports programming.

Thanks again. Much appreciated.
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post #208 of 268 Old 09-18-2014, 02:03 AM - Thread Starter
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post #209 of 268 Old 09-21-2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
What do you think the best calibration for sports? Watch alot of UFC and football, but when someone throws a pass its just a big blur going across the screen. Trying to find the best settings for sports.
thanks
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post #210 of 268 Old 09-22-2014, 02:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Either Dynamic or User should work with sports. I just watched the Seahawks beat the Broncos
with Dynamic and it was very clear. Others have said they have issues with golf balls especially.
Maybe the rate of speed, small size and white color make a problem. Someone said they turned
the AquoMotion up to 960 and that improved it. You lose the Resolution Enhancement with that
setting, though, so it's a choice of which matters more. I can barely see the backlight strobing
in fast motion -- usually moving my eyes quickly relative to the screen -- but it is still there at
240, I realize. 960 should render it completely invisible. Try it and let us know!
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