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post #1 of 189 Old 06-16-2014, 02:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Sharp UQ17U Calibrations

August 21, 2014

New!

Dynamic Mode.

Auto Sensor On
(backlight adjustment disabled when sensor is on)
Contrast +32
Brightness +1
Color +10
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Resolution Mode 1
Motion Aquo240
Clear Picture Off
CMS Hue R0,Y-10,G+15,C+3,B-30,M0
CMS Saturation All 0 except R-5, Y-20, C+30, B-10, M-10
CMS Value All 0 except C+30, M-10
Active Contrast Advanced
Color Temperature Mid-High
All 0 except Red Hi -10, Blue Hi +1
Gamma 0
Film Advanced +10
Digital Noise Off
Light Sensor Range +16 Max, 0 Min

This is the cleanest picture I've gotten so far, with strong color, while maintaining skin tones.
Let me know what you think!




I'm sold on the USER setting now, after a couple of weeks.

It allows you to tailor settings for each input.
Cable might need Active Contrast where BluRay does not (for instance)
Here are the basic settings, which must be input for each input device:


USER
Picture Quality Settings: (Yellow CMS altered for better fleshtones)
Color Temperature LO Green changed from +30 to +27
HI Red bumped up from -8 to -5 to improve some fleshtones.

Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16) -- (this setting doesn't matter when Sensor is ON)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+5)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10) or (0) or any value for your input quality

Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)

CMS -- all (0) except Yellow Hue (-10), Yellow Saturation (-10), Blue Hue (-15), Cyan Saturation (+15)

Color Temperature (LOW)

2-Point settings:

LO: R (0), G (+27), B (+26)
HI: R (-5), G (+24), B (+30)

Active Contrast (OFF) or (ON)
Gamma (0)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)

Light Sensor:

Max (+16), Min (-11) or Min (-8), or any value for your dark conditions

************************************************** ***********

I've put the above in ahead of this archival first try below:

ALL NEW STANDARD SETTING POSTED!
SCROLL DOWN TO "NEW STANDARD!"

(Don't miss out on the USER settings, too.)

(Trying out Active Contrast - Advanced with USER setting...)

'Standard' picture quality:
(First Try -- surpassed by USER and NEW STANDARD)

Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+10)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)
Resolution (Mode 1)
Motion (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Pic (OFF)

CMS Hue: R (0), Y (-20), G (+5), C (+3), B (-25), M (+20)
CMS Saturation: R (-10), Y (-5), G (-5), C (0), B (0), M (-9)
CMS Value: All (0)

Color Temperature (HIGH)

10-Point Settings:

1) R -15, G +15, B 0
2) R -15, G +15, B 0
3) R -15, G +12, B 0
4) R -15, G +13, B 0
5) R -15, G +13, B 0
6) R -17, G +11, B 0
7) R -19, G +12, B 0
8) R -23, G +9, B 0
9) R -15, G +1, B 0
10) R -5, G 0, B 0

Active Contrast (OFF)
Gamma (-2)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10) -- optional if you like Soap Opera
Digital Noise (OFF)
Light Sensor Range (+15 MAXIMUM, -13 MINIMUM)

This is the setup for 'Standard'.
Lukemon and Mechman have 'Movie' calibrations as well...
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Last edited by johnfull; Yesterday at 09:52 AM.
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post #2 of 189 Old 06-16-2014, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
'Standard' picture quality:

Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+10)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)
Resolution (Mode 1)
Motion (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Pic (OFF)

CMS Hue: R (0), Y (-20), G (+5), C (+7), B (-5), M (0)
CMS Saturation: R (-10), Y (-5), G (-5), C (-14), B (0), M (-5)
CMS Value: All (0)

Color Temperature (HIGH)

10-Point Settings:

1) R -15, G +15, B 0
2) R -15, G +15, B 0
3) R -15, G +12, B 0
4) R -15, G +13, B 0
5) R -15, G +13, B 0
6) R -17, G +11, B 0
7) R -19, G +12, B 0
8) R -23, G +9, B 0
9) R -15, G +1, B 0
10) R -5, G 0, B 0

Active Contrast (OFF)
Gamma (-2)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10) -- optional if you like Soap Opera
Digital Noise (OFF)
Light Sensor Range (+15 MAXIMUM, -13 MINIMUM)

This is the setup for 'Standard'.
Lukemon and Mechman have 'Movie' calibrations as well...
Settings have been modified slightly for better daylight performance and improved fleshtones.
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post #3 of 189 Old 06-16-2014, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I've had this set for 4 days and I think I have hit the magic sweet spot where different
sources all look good to the eye. I concentrated on dark environment till today, letting
the OPC do its own magic to make the picture progressively brighter with changing
room lighting. I made some minor tweaks to the 10-point scale and to the yellow CMS
setting. I posted those above as edits in red in case you used the old settings.
I will post changes as I see fit and I hope to hear some more positive feedback from
fellow UQ owners. There are a couple of guys who posted Movie settings elsewhere.
Enjoy -- I am!
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post #4 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 03:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
I've had this set for 4 days and I think I have hit the magic sweet spot where different
sources all look good to the eye. I concentrated on dark environment till today, letting
the OPC do its own magic to make the picture progressively brighter with changing
room lighting. I made some minor tweaks to the 10-point scale and to the yellow CMS
setting. I posted those above as edits in red in case you used the old settings.
I will post changes as I see fit and I hope to hear some more positive feedback from
fellow UQ owners. There are a couple of guys who posted Movie settings elsewhere.
Enjoy -- I am!
Touched up the CMS settings to refine performance of colors.
Earlier changes are in red and later in magenta.
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post #5 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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User Settings:

This requires programming for each input -- your cable input and your BluRay, for example.
It is a much more natural setting than the STANDARD that I posted above. Less processing.
I chose the LOW temperature setting because it has the smoothest curve to work from.
USER doesn't allow 10-Point scale, so I needed a setting that didn't have a 'hump' in the center.

User Picture Quality Settings:

Automatic Light Sensor (ON)
Backlight (-16)
Contrast (+30)
Brightness (+1)
Color (+3)
Tint (0)
Sharpness (+10)

Resolution Enhanced (Mode 1)
Motion Enhancement (Aquomotion 240)
Clear Picture (OFF)

CMS -- all (0) except Yellow Hue (-15), Blue Hue (-15), Cyan Saturation (+15)

Color Temperature (LOW)

2-Point settings:

LO: R (0), G (+30), B (+26)
HI: R (-8), G (+24), B (+30)

Active Contrast (OFF)
Gamma (0)
Film Mode (ADVANCED +10)
Digital Noise Reduction (OFF)

Light Sensor:

Max (+16), Min (-11)

Flesh tones are better with this setting.
Overall image is less bright, more comfortable.
Remember to input it for each device!

Last edited by johnfull; 06-26-2014 at 01:50 PM.
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post #6 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Settings have been modified slightly for better daylight performance and improved fleshtones.
These settings are amazing!!! Thank you, johnfull for sharing. It looks great. I would love to hear more on your thoughts of why you chose to enable the OPC feature, when most feedback on this feature always seems to be negative. Also, do you have any suggestions on the best settings for 3D blu ray playback and the 2D to 3D conversion?
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post #7 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRod16 View Post
These settings are amazing!!! Thank you, johnfull for sharing. It looks great. I would love to hear more on your thoughts of why you chose to enable the OPC feature, when most feedback on this feature always seems to be negative. Also, do you have any suggestions on the best settings for 3D blu ray playback and the 2D to 3D conversion?
Glad you liked the settings!
Most people are rightly skeptical, but Sharp has put a lot of engineering into the OPC.
It controls the backlight, contrast, brightness and color, but you don't see it at work.
Very subtle.
For 3D, I turn the contrast all the way up and drop the brightness a bit, depending
on the disc. It is fine as-is, unless you have ghosting in shadow detail.
They don't allow anything more with the 3D to avoid spoiling the illusion.
Thanks again for the positive feedback!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Glad you liked the settings!
Most people are rightly skeptical, but Sharp has put a lot of engineering into the OPC.
It controls the backlight, contrast, brightness and color, but you don't see it at work.
Very subtle.
For 3D, I turn the contrast all the way up and drop the brightness a bit, depending
on the disc. It is fine as-is, unless you have ghosting in shadow detail.
They don't allow anything more with the 3D to avoid spoiling the illusion.
Thanks again for the positive feedback!
Understood. Are you now stating that your USER settings trump your original settings that you posted in Standard mode? I'm just wondering if one is better to use for Direct TV content vs blu ray playback. I have toggled between mechman's movie settings and your Standard settings on my blu ray. While his is more close to the Movie THX setting, I believe my eyes prefer the richness, brightness and color saturation of your Standard calibration. I haven't plugged in your USER settings on my blu ray input to compare yet. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks for all your work and willingness to share. I am loving my new 80" SHARP, thanks to forum members, like you. It's been a pleasant surprise coming from a Panasonic plasma.
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post #9 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I mainly went to the USER settings to try and get away from 'lemon faces'.
Pleasant surprise to see that it handles fleshtones better than the STANDARD setting.
They vary between pink and slightly yellow now and colors are deeper, but not as bright.
I think I may use the STANDARD setting for dark BluRay discs and USER for everything else.
The STANDARD setting has a lot more pop, but the USER is better for everyday and easy
on the eyes. You have a choice! Let me know if you tinker any and find something better.
As for 3D; I have never tampered with the depth effect controls on the new set or on the
similar one I have had for 2 years. It seems set up pretty well the way it arrived.
Just the tweaking of contrast and brightness on some material.
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post #10 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 04:10 PM
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1st of all turn off the energy savings, kills the picture. lots of good settings. personally I like backlight higher and don't like the auto sensor.
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post #11 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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1st of all turn off the energy savings, kills the picture. lots of good settings. personally I like backlight higher and don't like the auto sensor.
I like the backlight higher, too, and it goes higher with increasing room light.
By setting the Maximum and Minimum, you control how much the TV compensates for
room lighting. If the picture is muddy in the dark environment, turn the minimum up.
I set the Maximum at top and the Minimum just a peg or two off the lowest.
The backlight works with the contrast and brightness to seamlessly give you a good
picture without the gray blacks of a backlight that is left at a high setting even in the dark.
To each their own, but give it a try at least. STANDARD picture uses the energy saving
logos on it. The USER setting seems to be better all-around...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Settings have been modified slightly for better daylight performance and improved fleshtones.
Just tried these setting and they look really great on my 70UQ. Thanks very much for sharing!
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post #13 of 189 Old 06-17-2014, 07:59 PM
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Johnfull,

I love all your settings and appreciate all the time and hard work!!

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My Movie Library - and still growing!

Family Room: Sharp LC-80uq17u + Denon 3808ci + Oppo 93, Speakers: C: Polk CSi-A6, F(L+R): Polk Rti-A7, S(R+RS) Polk TC60i, Sub: HSU – VTF3-MK4
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post #14 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 01:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, everyone! I should try and tackle the THX next...
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post #15 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
Thanks, everyone! I should try and tackle the THX next...
I was under the impression that THX settings were in place to provide the average user with something close to calibrated without them having to do the legwork? Am I wrong here?


Dustin
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post #16 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 05:44 AM - Thread Starter
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It would be great if a TV could come out of the box properly calibrated.
Computers do, though they can be tweaked to match a color space.
The only thing I always do is to get the white scale even from one end
of brightness to the other -- no pink or blue or green steps along the way. It's usually subtle to select a white -- whipping cream to skim milk is about the range that one should have to choose from.
Instead, the whites look distinctly pink or blue every time before adjusting.
As for THX;
I think the intent is to have the TV respond exactly the way the THX certification process requires.
All I am doing is picking the color closest to what I like and modifying it to remove red or blue
discoloration. For some reason, when they set color temperatures, they ignore green output
entirely. I add green and blue to a pink stepped white scale or remove blue from the other,
depending on the range allowed and the linearity of what they present. The last point is particularly
important when only 2-Point adjustment is allowed, since the colors in the middle will follow the
HI or the LO setting and can't be adjusted to remove a 'hump' color -- usually red.
The THX allows 10-Point, though, so there is more lattitude in choice. I tried a 2-Point setting this
morning with the LOW temp (pink) and liked the result pretty well, till I switched to Monochrome
and found an unpleasant pink cast remained in some of the mid-shadow tones.
I get eye fatigue from so much trial and error, so I will return to it another day.
One thing I don't like about the THX is the requirement that the backlight be fixed at either a
dark room setting of a bright room setting. I really like the OPC's ability to finely tailor the backlight
to the environment and to the input to keep light bleed to a minimum. THX doesn't allow that, so
a black screen doesn't really look black, even on dark room setting, which is the only one I've tried
thus far. I returned to the USER setting and found it to be pleasing still, though a tad colorful.
Once I find a setting that works for every source, I will leave it alone. USER is it, so far...

Last edited by johnfull; 06-18-2014 at 05:55 AM.
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post #17 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 06:57 AM
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As a caveat realize that johnfull (John?) does not use a meter and is doing all this by eye. Even though I do not own a UQ, based on the two that are known to have been calibrated with an actual meter, the low preset temp is still too blue (not pink) so unless Sharp has changed things or his is that far different, his settings will be making the greyscale too blue.

Now I will say that how we see something can/usually will differ and it is possible for him what he is setting things up as IS more like what I and others who use equipment see d65 which I wouldn't be surprised is the case. However, one must realize that while he is adjusting his set to what he likes, he is not actually calibrating since calibrating involves equipment to match a standard.

Having said all that, I'm all for people going with what they like and most people prefer an image that is more bluish since it is brighter and has more perceived "pop" in it. Just making sure anyone who may use the settings and think they are going to have an image closer to the industry standard of accuracy knows the difference.

ROB
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post #18 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Rob.
Testimonials are pointing to improvement over out-of-the-box, at least.
The problem with the static tests that you do with a meter is that the algorithm of
the setting is not seen or accounted for. Why do the different settings exist to begin with?
I found the STANDARD to reduce chroma in favor of a brighter overall picture, no matter what
I did or didn't do (before my meddling, for instance). USER leaves all the chroma info intact
so that concrete and other gray materials actually have some color variation, depending on
the light, etc. USER is much more vivid in color whereas STANDARD is vidid in brightness.
The THX that I played with looked like old Kodachrome slides from the 1960s, with very
beautiful hues and gradations. Unfortunately, it will not allow use of the OPC, which I must
have in order to keep the backlight appropriately lit or dimmed for room conditions and content.
I would love for someone to go into my Temperature scale settings and fine-tune them with a
meter, but my eye does a pretty decent job of sorting out color variation from one step to the
next and then this is borne out with a good Monochrome viewing of various materials to get
an absolutely flat response -- which is what we all want - accuracy!
Does this make sense? I looked at the Mechman calibrations for movie setting and the white
color is yellow and the chroma response makes shadows turn yellow. Did I mention yellow?
I like chalk white for a reference color. I know it when I see it and I have it in spades!
I might add that there are differences of color and brightness across the
screen's height and width. I see them with my eyes and you see them with your meter, but cannot take an average judgement with it, can you?

Last edited by johnfull; 06-18-2014 at 07:49 AM.
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post #19 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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The USER setting is a keeper!

(edit):

Bumped the Blue hue and Cyan saturation
to get a wider palette.

Last edited by johnfull; 06-18-2014 at 01:28 PM.
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post #20 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 03:42 PM
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John,

Post the changes baby!

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post #21 of 189 Old 06-18-2014, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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They are edited in on the USER mode settings -- changed blue hue (-15) and cyan saturation (+15).
This is a very good setting now and may or may not get revisions.
If you tinker with it and find something better, let me know!
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post #22 of 189 Old 06-19-2014, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
They are edited in on the USER mode settings -- changed blue hue (-15) and cyan saturation (+15).
This is a very good setting now and may or may not get revisions.
If you tinker with it and find something better, let me know!
Thanks to you I have adjusted my 80uq17u so that it looks really good (I certainly don't have the smarts to have figured it out myself). Both your USER and STANDARD AV MODES look good. Both of these modes have the Automatic Light Sensor set to ON. However, when I adjusted to the MOVIE AV MODE (suggested by someone else) the Automatic Light Sensor is set to OFF. When I went back to the USER and STANDARD AV MODES, I found that the previous settings for these modes were as I had set them EXCEPT for the Automatic Light Sensor, which was now OFF. So going back and forth, I was surprised to find out that the Automatic Light Sensor remains in the state, ON or OFF, that it was last set to, regardless of the AV MODE. So if its set ON in your USER AV MODE, and then the AV MODE is changed to MOVIE, the Auto Light Sensor will have to be set to OFF. And then back ON when going back to your USER AV MODE. Have you found that the Auto Light Sensor setting works this way, while all the other functions remain as original set? Or am I missing something? Anyway, thanks much for your (and others) setting information.
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post #23 of 189 Old 06-19-2014, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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That's a weird glitch! It's odd that Movie mode moves it to Off, but the others don't turn it on.
Maybe you can change the Movie mode to ON and adjust the Maximum and Minimum to suit yourself.
I will go back in and work with Mechman's Movie settings and see what I can do later on.
His is good, but has some yellow in faces that I don't like. Just a personal preference.
I wish more people would try the OPC and see how well it works.
It works best, though, to start with a dark room and then let the control increase with room brightness.
Going the other way towards automatic darkening makes the picture look kind of muddy.
Thanks for your encouragement on the settings. These are complicated beasts!
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post #24 of 189 Old 06-19-2014, 06:49 PM
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Johnful,

Noob question, what is OPC?

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post #25 of 189 Old 06-20-2014, 02:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiptouz View Post
Johnful,

Noob question, what is OPC?
'Optical Picture Control' -- it's the light sensor that will automatically adjust to room lighting.
If you turn it on, it will help keep the backlight from being too bright in dark scenes and
ruining the effect with light bleed. It works very well this year and I highly recommend using it.
The UQ model has such an intensely bright picture that it's essential to have this control.
My calibrations are done in the dark and then the OPC adjusts the picture to brighter conditions.
I have no complaints about its implementation to date -- I've had the TV a whole week so far.

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post #26 of 189 Old 06-20-2014, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfull View Post
'Optical Picture Control' -- it's the light sensor that will automatically adjust to room lighting.
If you turn it on, it will help keep the backlight from being too bright in dark scenes and
ruining the effect with light bleed. It works very well this year and I highly recommend using it.
The UQ model has such an intensely bright picture that it's essential to have this control.
My calibrations are done in the dark and then the OPC adjusts the picture to brighter conditions.
I have no complaints about its implementation to date -- I've had the TV a whole week so far.

Johfull,

Thanks for the settings. I have only tried them out on DISHTV, but they are much better than the settings posted here for the SQ. Everything looks real. Almost too real for my wife. I had to go back to "Standard" on Film Mode to please her. Looking forward to trying out BluRay this weekend.

I couldn't figure out the OPC feature to make it work best for me, and your view of setting Backighting at the lowest makes it work great in my brightly lite viewing room. Keep up the great research.
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post #27 of 189 Old 06-20-2014, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the encouragement! I'll tinker till I have it perfected. I've had the set one week
as of yesterday afternoon, so the future looks bright.
Your wife may be reacting to the 'soap opera effect' brought on by the Film Mode.
It smooths the motion between frames to remove the jerkiness that we're used to in movies.
You can try switching it off to see if she prefers it that way.
I didn't like the Film Mode on my set that I had for 2 years till I got used to it.
Another member of the household overruled my objections and it got turned on.
It seems to operate even better on the new set, so I leave it on without thinking about it now.
It really is a matter of taste, whether you want to see the 24 frames per second film speed and
what that does to objects moving sideways across the screen. Nowadays, films are made digitally
and at higher speed, so the 'soap opera effect' is the wave of the future -- ready or not!

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post #28 of 189 Old 06-20-2014, 02:03 PM
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Is OPC the same as Automatic Light Sensor? I don't see a setting called OPC.

Argyl Home Theater - Indefinitely Delayed

My Movie Library - and still growing!

Family Room: Sharp LC-80uq17u + Denon 3808ci + Oppo 93, Speakers: C: Polk CSi-A6, F(L+R): Polk Rti-A7, S(R+RS) Polk TC60i, Sub: HSU – VTF3-MK4

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post #29 of 189 Old 06-20-2014, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, the OPC is the light sensor.
They changed the name since 2 years ago and I didn't notice!
It seems to do a lot more duties now as well, which is why you
should calibrate in the dark and give the sensor full range to
brighten depending on room conditions. The backlight should be
set at minimum as well, because the sensor will raise its level
as needed for room conditions and video content.

Last edited by johnfull; 06-20-2014 at 03:58 PM.
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post #30 of 189 Old 06-21-2014, 12:16 PM
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Thank you so much for your efforts, I really apreciate it! This was so good I had to pop my post cherry

I have the 70UQ10 and have fiddled around with your two Standard and User settings as well as the Movie settings from the _big_ thread but also found it too yellow and didnt work at all for me on my setup.

I almost only watch series and movies (MKV and BluRay alike) from my HTPC through my Sony 1040 reciever and found the User settings the best. Any tips to tweak the settings running from an HTPC? Should I calibrate anything on the HTPC as well?

The Sony 1040 also alows for 4K upscaling and when I "activate" it my Sharp switches to 2160p but I can´t make out any difference... It might be that it takes to many steps/time for me to switch between I forget how it looked last time What do you recommend I use?

Also I have the Xbox One running through the receiver. Any tips here? The "standard" game settings are horrible

Thanks again!

Last edited by QKN; 06-21-2014 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Grammer
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