**Official 2014 Vizio M652i-B2 owners thread - Page 8 - AVS Forum
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post #211 of 260 Old 08-25-2014, 08:33 AM
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I just picked up this TV to replace an old Sony rear projection SXRD and used the calibration settings from smeg36 and am happy with the picture.

I am having a lip synch issue as well as dropped audio. My setup consists of a TiVo connected via HDMI. I have tried replacing the HDMI cable but still have an issue:

When watching TV, the sound will slowly become out of synch with the picture with the sound trailing the picture. At other times, the sound will go out completely (this has happened after rewinding live TV on the TiVo and when switching from live TV to the TiVo menu back to live TV but it does not happen all of the time, so I cannot purposely replicate it). When this happens, I can restore the sound by switching the Vizio to a different input and then back to the input with the TiVo.

I was able to prevent both issues from occurring by changing the audio output setting on the TiVo from Dolby Digital to PCM. However, I would prefer to keep the TiVo output on Dolby Digital for the times I would like to run the audio through my surround sound.

Is this normal or should the VIZIO be able to process the Dolby Digital signal? Anything else I should try?
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post #212 of 260 Old 08-25-2014, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelMA View Post
I just picked up this TV to replace an old Sony rear projection SXRD and used the calibration settings from smeg36 and am happy with the picture.

I am having a lip synch issue as well as dropped audio. My setup consists of a TiVo connected via HDMI. I have tried replacing the HDMI cable but still have an issue:

When watching TV, the sound will slowly become out of synch with the picture with the sound trailing the picture. At other times, the sound will go out completely (this has happened after rewinding live TV on the TiVo and when switching from live TV to the TiVo menu back to live TV but it does not happen all of the time, so I cannot purposely replicate it). When this happens, I can restore the sound by switching the Vizio to a different input and then back to the input with the TiVo.

I was able to prevent both issues from occurring by changing the audio output setting on the TiVo from Dolby Digital to PCM. However, I would prefer to keep the TiVo output on Dolby Digital for the times I would like to run the audio through my surround sound.

Is this normal or should the VIZIO be able to process the Dolby Digital signal? Anything else I should try?
How is your audio setup, and what's your surround sound setup? Are you using HDMI directly to the TV, then optical from the TiVo for when you want surround? I have the HDMI all going through my receiver for audio, then only video going to the TV from the receiver, and have never had any lip sync issues like those who use the TV for audio.

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post #213 of 260 Old 08-25-2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelMA View Post
I just picked up this TV to replace an old Sony rear projection SXRD and used the calibration settings from smeg36 and am happy with the picture.

I am having a lip synch issue as well as dropped audio. My setup consists of a TiVo connected via HDMI. I have tried replacing the HDMI cable but still have an issue:

When watching TV, the sound will slowly become out of synch with the picture with the sound trailing the picture. At other times, the sound will go out completely (this has happened after rewinding live TV on the TiVo and when switching from live TV to the TiVo menu back to live TV but it does not happen all of the time, so I cannot purposely replicate it). When this happens, I can restore the sound by switching the Vizio to a different input and then back to the input with the TiVo.

I was able to prevent both issues from occurring by changing the audio output setting on the TiVo from Dolby Digital to PCM. However, I would prefer to keep the TiVo output on Dolby Digital for the times I would like to run the audio through my surround sound.

Is this normal or should the VIZIO be able to process the Dolby Digital signal? Anything else I should try?

The PCM "fix" will hopefully only be temporary. The best thing is for everyone to call and report the issue and how they can resolve it. If people don't call or report it then Vizio will never "know".


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post #214 of 260 Old 08-25-2014, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post
How is your audio setup, and what's your surround sound setup? Are you using HDMI directly to the TV, then optical from the TiVo for when you want surround? I have the HDMI all going through my receiver for audio, then only video going to the TV from the receiver, and have never had any lip sync issues like those who use the TV for audio.
Yes, I have my TiVo connected directly to my TV by HDMI. I have an optical audio connection from my TiVo to my receiver for surround sound. When I want surround sound, I mute my TV and run the audio from my receiver. Unfortunately setting the audio output to PCM makes the output to my receiver to be 2 channel. I would have to change the output on the TiVo to Dolby then switch it back to use the TVs speakers.

I have a DVD player connected by HDMI to the Vizio and the audio connected to my receiver via 5.1 analog connections (I let the DVD do the audio processing). I always use the surround sound for DVD.

For TV, I don't mind using the tv speakers for news and regular shows, but do prefer to use the surround for sports and music shows.

My receiver is old and does not have HDMI capabilities. Maybe this is an excuse to upgrade my receiver and run everything through that to the tv. I'm not sure that I have other set up options with my current equipment.

I will report my issue to Vizio as well.
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post #215 of 260 Old 08-27-2014, 08:13 AM
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I was really bothered by the idea that my gamma wasn't correct when I calibrated, and Amazon had a deal (and I had some gift cards) on the i1 Display Pro, so I got it and have been adjusting my settings the last few days. I was getting super frustrated because I kept getting the same issue: when I got my charts to show a nice gamma level, it looked terrible on the screen. So I did some research into calibrating a FALD LCD as I'd only done plasma prior to this. What I found would have saved me around 15 hours of frustration.

To anyone who's going to calibrate their set, when you do make sure you TURN OFF ACTIVE LED ZONES! Even if you're going to have them on when you watch, turn them off when you calibrate. It totally throws the gamma out of whack. When I turned them off and ran a greyscale measurement, the gamma was pretty close to 2.22 across the board. I did a little adjusting here and there to get it as close as I could, but my initial settings were pretty close. I updated my previous post with the new settings, and will post them here as well. As always, every panel is different and my settings may or may not work for you. Use them as a baseline to adjust your own.

Custom 1

Backlight - 37 (98 with MBR On for Sports picture mode)
Brightness - 48
Contrast - 65
Color - 50
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0

Advanced Picture

Color Temperature - Normal
Black Detail - Off
Active LED Zones - On
Smooth Motion Effect - Off (Low for Sports picture mode)
Motion Blur Reduction - Off (On for Sports picture mode)
Reduce Signal Noise - Off
Reduce Block Noise - Off
Film Mode - Auto

Professional Picture

Color Tuner

(Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow)
Hue - 0, 0, 0, -3, 2, 0
Saturation - 0, 0, 0, 3, 0, -30
Brighness - 7, 4, 6, 1, 5, 1
Offset - 0, 0, 0
Gain - 1, 0, -1

11 Point White Balance

(Red, Green, Blue)

5% - 0, 0, 0
10% - 2, 0, -4
20% - 2, 0, -3
30% - 6, 2, 1
40% - 4, 2, -4
50% - 3, -2, -6
60% - 2, -5, -4
70% - 6, -2, -2
80% - 8, 0, 0
90% - 10, 0, 0
100% - 0, 0, 0
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post #216 of 260 Old 08-27-2014, 09:41 AM
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Hey Smeg,

Quick question for ya:

How does this new calibration compare to your first, edited settings; that is the one people have posted all over this board. Obviously you find this new one technically more accurate, but in layman's terms, how is it better? Brighter? Punchier? Less egg-shell? etc.

I have been extremely satisfied with your previous work--plus or minus my little tweaks--and am greatly, sincerely appreciative of your work and posts. I really mean it; thank you. I would never have been as accurate with my own panel tweaks.

Anyway, I appreciate the response.

Thank you!!!

Max
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post #217 of 260 Old 08-27-2014, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post
I was really bothered by the idea that my gamma wasn't correct when I calibrated, and Amazon had a deal (and I had some gift cards) on the i1 Display Pro, so I got it and have been adjusting my settings the last few days. I was getting super frustrated because I kept getting the same issue: when I got my charts to show a nice gamma level, it looked terrible on the screen. So I did some research into calibrating a FALD LCD as I'd only done plasma prior to this. What I found would have saved me around 15 hours of frustration.

To anyone who's going to calibrate their set, when you do make sure you TURN OFF ACTIVE LED ZONES! Even if you're going to have them on when you watch, turn them off when you calibrate. It totally throws the gamma out of whack. When I turned them off and ran a greyscale measurement, the gamma was pretty close to 2.22 across the board. I did a little adjusting here and there to get it as close as I could, but my initial settings were pretty close. I updated my previous post with the new settings, and will post them here as well. As always, every panel is different and my settings may or may not work for you. Use them as a baseline to adjust your own.

Custom 1

Backlight - 37 (98 with MBR On for Sports picture mode)
Brightness - 48
Contrast - 65
Color - 50
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0

Advanced Picture

Color Temperature - Normal
Black Detail - Off
Active LED Zones - On
Smooth Motion Effect - Off (Low for Sports picture mode)
Motion Blur Reduction - Off (On for Sports picture mode)
Reduce Signal Noise - Off
Reduce Block Noise - Off
Film Mode - Auto

Professional Picture

Color Tuner

(Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow)
Hue - 0, 0, 0, -3, 2, 0
Saturation - 0, 0, 0, 3, 0, -30
Brighness - 7, 4, 6, 1, 5, 1
Offset - 0, 0, 0
Gain - 1, 0, -1

11 Point White Balance

(Red, Green, Blue)

5% - 0, 0, 0
10% - 2, 0, -4
20% - 2, 0, -3
30% - 6, 2, 1
40% - 4, 2, -4
50% - 3, -2, -6
60% - 2, -5, -4
70% - 6, -2, -2
80% - 8, 0, 0
90% - 10, 0, 0
100% - 0, 0, 0
Did you do another run with the Active LED on after calibrating with it off? If it has an effect as you say it may throw everything off once again by turning it back on. Im guessing you did and didn't find any significant jumps or errors.
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post #218 of 260 Old 08-27-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxintosh5 View Post
Hey Smeg,

Quick question for ya:

How does this new calibration compare to your first, edited settings; that is the one people have posted all over this board. Obviously you find this new one technically more accurate, but in layman's terms, how is it better? Brighter? Punchier? Less egg-shell? etc.

I have been extremely satisfied with your previous work--plus or minus my little tweaks--and am greatly, sincerely appreciative of your work and posts. I really mean it; thank you. I would never have been as accurate with my own panel tweaks.

Anyway, I appreciate the response.

Thank you!!!

Max
The actual changes were pretty minor, and probably unnoticeable. I raised the gamma a bit on the high end, and lowered it a bit on the low end. Since the only way to adjust gamma on this set without gamma controls is to use the 11 point grey scale settings, those had to change quite a bit to make the minor adjustment in gamma while keeping the grey scale balanced. I doubt anyone would notice a visual difference between the two, but it made my charts look nicer. That's really the change; my graphs look better now.
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post #219 of 260 Old 08-27-2014, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
Did you do another run with the Active LED on after calibrating with it off? If it has an effect as you say it may throw everything off once again by turning it back on. Im guessing you did and didn't find any significant jumps or errors.
I actually didn't think to do that. I just finished running a measure with Active LED back on, and the grey scale still looks pretty good with the exception of 30%. Of course, it throws the gamma measurements off with the 0% turning the screen off completely, so I have no way to know if it messes up the gamma having Active LED on since I can't really measure for it. Now, do I keep 30% accurate when measured with Active LED off, or do I try to correct it with it on?

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post #220 of 260 Old 08-27-2014, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post
I actually didn't think to do that. I just finished running a measure with Active LED back on, and the grey scale still looks pretty good with the exception of 30%. Of course, it throws the gamma measurements off with the 0% turning the screen off completely, so I have no way to know if it messes up the gamma having Active LED on since I can't really measure for it. Now, do I keep 30% accurate when measured with Active LED off, or do I try to correct it with it on?

How off is the 30%? From what I've read it's always better to err on the high end as the low end is where most of the "information" is. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in, but this may be a good topic to get started in try calibration forum. There are many knowledgeable people there that can give better adobes than I


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post #221 of 260 Old 08-28-2014, 08:23 PM
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I was able to secure this TV for $1000+tax yesterday. From what I have seen that is about as cheap as it comes presently. I have not set it up yet, that will happen tomorrow evening. I am coming from a Mits DLP 65 inch TV. I was looking for a 3D TV but decided that I just do not use it that much and I can do without it. The deal on this TV really swayed my decision. I have read through this thread and other Vizio threads and I will be on the lookout for before mentioned issues. I will also be trying out the calibrations listed here. Thank you for those.
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post #222 of 260 Old 08-29-2014, 07:20 AM
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I was able to secure this TV for $1000+tax yesterday. From what I have seen that is about as cheap as it comes presently. I have not set it up yet, that will happen tomorrow evening. I am coming from a Mits DLP 65 inch TV. I was looking for a 3D TV but decided that I just do not use it that much and I can do without it. The deal on this TV really swayed my decision. I have read through this thread and other Vizio threads and I will be on the lookout for before mentioned issues. I will also be trying out the calibrations listed here. Thank you for those.
Where did you get this steal deal from?!
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post #223 of 260 Old 08-29-2014, 01:26 PM
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I see people reporting a new firmware (1.34.44 FW) is being rolled out. Has anyone with audio synch issues from non PCM audio gotten the update yet, if so does this update fix the issue?
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post #224 of 260 Old 08-29-2014, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by videokid View Post
Where did you get this steal deal from?!
I called Bestbuy the other day to ask about an open box Vizio they showed on hand. It was last years model. A 65 inch model with 3d. The lady said they did not have it but said they had that exact model coming in on the truck the next day for $1099. It was a discontinued model but she was sure it was the one. I gave her both the sku and model number. Well needless to say I stopped in to buy it if it actually showed up. Well, it didnt. I didnt raise a stink but the guy went to look in the back and came out and said they would sell me this years model for $1000. Well I couldnt pass it up. No 3d but I can live without it. Thats how the deal came about.
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post #225 of 260 Old 08-29-2014, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by joelMA View Post
I see people reporting a new firmware (1.34.44 FW) is being rolled out. Has anyone with audio synch issues from non PCM audio gotten the update yet, if so does this update fix the issue?
I saw that new firmware was installed a couple of days ago, but my version is shown as 1.34.46.1166_135. I had not noticed the issue you described, and I have not seen any other obvious changes.

I had a web chat with Vizio support and was told that no changelog was available, but that "The update added Spotify, the Netflix interface changed, it added WIfi direct to the remote, those were the major changes."

Larry
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post #226 of 260 Old 08-29-2014, 02:13 PM
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I've had one firmware update so far, but it was a few weeks ago, to the same as LarryF in the prior post.
I still have the audio delay issue with non-PCM.

Last edited by Merlin_AZ; 09-07-2014 at 09:27 AM.
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post #227 of 260 Old 08-31-2014, 04:12 AM
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I ran across an odd bug the other night. I have an OTA antenna for local channels if satellite goes out for whatever reason. I programmed the tv and while watching a local channel I messed with the power indicator lights on/off setting. When I set the light to be on the tv's picture got a lot brighter and stayed that way until I shut the light back off. This seems odd to me. Has anyone else noticed this?
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post #228 of 260 Old 08-31-2014, 09:44 AM
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Ok so watched a full day of football last night. Lip sync after update still exist when playing DD through direct tv. Also I remember one member noticing that there seems to be multiple balls showing every time someone passed the ball. I got to see this yesterday and it looks aweful. I spent some time playing around with the setting and it you enable smooth motion effect at all it introduces terrible chopping. (Counter intuitive I know) I turned this feature off and it was gone. Ball was crisp again. Just thought I should update on my finding.
For watching sports I recommend. MBR turned on and smooth motion turned off. Seemed to give the best picture. Also a side note I did not experience any loss of picture quality during pans as other have reported.

Last edited by superkyle; 08-31-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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post #229 of 260 Old 09-02-2014, 10:42 AM
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So I've narrowed my search to the vizio M652i-B2 or the Samsung Un65h6350. Originally I was going to go with the Samsung until I realized none of the 65 inches have the Samsung panel.

I was just about to buy this set then read this thread outlining the issues watching sports.

I'm only going to be using this tv to watch sports and a few movies. After review of this thread it appears the use the same AUO penal as the Samsung?

For those of you that watch a lot of sports on the TV was there any specific setting you used to fix the issues you were having or do you think just going with the Samsung would be a better option?
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post #230 of 260 Old 09-02-2014, 12:59 PM
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If anyone has a spouse like mine that gets annoyed with my constant fiddling through picture menus: I found out last night that if you scroll to the very bottom of the menu to the small screen icon, you can toggle the option to shrink the picture to the size of the remaining screen space so that you're not bothering anyone else in the room (as much) when tweaking menu settings.
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post #231 of 260 Old 09-02-2014, 01:46 PM
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... I'm only going to be using this tv to watch sports and a few movies. After review of this thread it appears the use the same AUO penal as the Samsung?
Now THERE's a Freudian slip!
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post #232 of 260 Old 09-03-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by setesami View Post
So I've narrowed my search to the vizio M652i-B2 or the Samsung Un65h6350. Originally I was going to go with the Samsung until I realized none of the 65 inches have the Samsung panel.

I was just about to buy this set then read this thread outlining the issues watching sports.

I'm only going to be using this tv to watch sports and a few movies. After review of this thread it appears the use the same AUO penal as the Samsung?

For those of you that watch a lot of sports on the TV was there any specific setting you used to fix the issues you were having or do you think just going with the Samsung would be a better option?

See my post above.
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post #233 of 260 Old 09-03-2014, 09:18 AM
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Had my 652i for less than a month and noticed yesterday (after the TV was on for several hours) that I was seeing lines across the screen during dark scenes (both horizontal and vertical). I turned the brightness all the way up and then turned it back down, and that seems to have resolved the issue temporarily. But good thing I'm still within the Amazon return window so I can get a replacement.
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post #234 of 260 Old 09-03-2014, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post
I was really bothered by the idea that my gamma wasn't correct when I calibrated, and Amazon had a deal (and I had some gift cards) on the i1 Display Pro, so I got it and have been adjusting my settings the last few days. I was getting super frustrated because I kept getting the same issue: when I got my charts to show a nice gamma level, it looked terrible on the screen. So I did some research into calibrating a FALD LCD as I'd only done plasma prior to this. What I found would have saved me around 15 hours of frustration.

To anyone who's going to calibrate their set, when you do make sure you TURN OFF ACTIVE LED ZONES! Even if you're going to have them on when you watch, turn them off when you calibrate. It totally throws the gamma out of whack. When I turned them off and ran a greyscale measurement, the gamma was pretty close to 2.22 across the board. I did a little adjusting here and there to get it as close as I could, but my initial settings were pretty close. I updated my previous post with the new settings, and will post them here as well. As always, every panel is different and my settings may or may not work for you. Use them as a baseline to adjust your own.

Custom 1

Backlight - 37 (98 with MBR On for Sports picture mode)
Brightness - 48
Contrast - 65
Color - 50
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0

Advanced Picture

Color Temperature - Normal
Black Detail - Off
Active LED Zones - On
Smooth Motion Effect - Off (Low for Sports picture mode)
Motion Blur Reduction - Off (On for Sports picture mode)
Reduce Signal Noise - Off
Reduce Block Noise - Off
Film Mode - Auto

Professional Picture

Color Tuner

(Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow)
Hue - 0, 0, 0, -3, 2, 0
Saturation - 0, 0, 0, 3, 0, -30
Brighness - 7, 4, 6, 1, 5, 1
Offset - 0, 0, 0
Gain - 1, 0, -1

11 Point White Balance

(Red, Green, Blue)

5% - 0, 0, 0
10% - 2, 0, -4
20% - 2, 0, -3
30% - 6, 2, 1
40% - 4, 2, -4
50% - 3, -2, -6
60% - 2, -5, -4
70% - 6, -2, -2
80% - 8, 0, 0
90% - 10, 0, 0
100% - 0, 0, 0
Hi Smeg, do these reflect your most current updated settings?
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post #235 of 260 Old 09-03-2014, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe5411 View Post
Hi Smeg, do these reflect your most current updated settings?
As of now, yes. I have made some changes. I'm still toying with it a bit trying to get the gamma even closer to 2.22 across the board, and lower the 10% dE, but I haven't finished it. And they are such minor changes that I'm sure the variation in panels would render them moot for any set other than mine.

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post #236 of 260 Old 09-04-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
For watching sports I recommend. MBR turned on and smooth motion turned off. Seemed to give the best picture. Also a side note I did not experience any loss of picture quality during pans as other have reported.
I decided to give your recommendation a try, and have to say thanks. I don't know how much is me getting used to the TV, how much is placebo, and how much is actual improvement, but having MBR on and Smooth Motion off does seem to improve the banding/DSE during sports.

I'm not very sensative to motion resolution, so I don't notice a difference in quality between Smooth Motion on/off except when fast forwarding through a game to catch up to live. But it certainly seems to reduce the banding with it off and MBR on.
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post #237 of 260 Old 09-07-2014, 07:40 AM
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I tried this, and turning on MBR immediately dimmed the picture. Why would that happen?
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post #238 of 260 Old 09-07-2014, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wolverine1987 View Post
I tried this, and turning on MBR immediately dimmed the picture. Why would that happen?
Because MBR is backlight scanning, which means they are quickly flashing the backlight on and off instead of being constantly on. As a result, there isn't as much light output. You need to turn your backlight up to make up for the decreased light output when MBR is on.
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post #239 of 260 Old 09-07-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post
Because MBR is backlight scanning, which means they are quickly flashing the backlight on and off instead of being constantly on. As a result, there isn't as much light output. You need to turn your backlight up to make up for the decreased light output when MBR is on.
Thanks again. I have a new question: Watching the NFL for the first time on the set right now, and while the tight shots of players and coaches are good, it seems like any wide shots of the field and especially the crowd are almost pixelated or something, certainly not clear. Have you or anyone else noticed this? It's happening on both channels that have games on right now.
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post #240 of 260 Old 09-07-2014, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wolverine1987 View Post
Thanks again. I have a new question: Watching the NFL for the first time on the set right now, and while the tight shots of players and coaches are good, it seems like any wide shots of the field and especially the crowd are almost pixelated or something, certainly not clear. Have you or anyone else noticed this? It's happening on both channels that have games on right now.

What is your source and what was your previous TV. Also what do you have sharpness and other enhancement settings on? All of these can play a factor into what you're seeing.


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