Official Vizio 2016/2017 P Series Owners Thread UHD/HDR/DV No Price Talk Please - Page 175 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5221 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by hachima View Post
I never tried their test app, I just experienced issues when actually using the TV with WiFi(even though signal strength and tests on other devices are ok). After switching to Ethernet I haven't had any loading or low resolution streaming issues.

One other problem I ran into with Netflix casting was the 'Are you still there? Press play to continue' popup they do(while watching 3 episodes back to back). I understand their need to do this to prevent long streaming when no one is there but I had no way to answer it. The drop down swipe on the tablet still showed the original episode I started for some reason. Pressing pause, stop or 30 second rewind were the only options. None of those did anything. In the actual Netflix app it show my updated progress on the seasons list with the Play button still there. Pressing that just resulted in 'error sending command to device.' and the cast icon went back to white. I re-established the cast connection and was able to start casting again.


My wifi can give me a low signal as well at times. I attached a LAN cable to it to hard wire it, but cant seem to get it to stop using wifi for streaming. I looked in the menu and cant find how I get the tv to use the ethernet instead. How did you do it?
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post #5222 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:32 AM
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Red face

Several people have asked my opinion on the new Vizio P75-C1. So after about 6 hours with the TV, here it is. (Edited 6-07-2016 modified my stance on GLL.)

I sold my M80-C3 and bought the P75-C1 not because I was dissatisfied with the M80. I sold the M80 because it simply was too big for the room I had it in. I was sitting 10 feet or less(4 feet in some cases) from an 80 inch screen.

That was just a bad idea from the start and I should have recognized that. In the 8 months that I had the M80 my wife only watched one show on the M80 with me. After that she said that it simply was too big to focus on the whole screen because we were sitting too close to it. However, the room I had it in can’t have the seats any further back without completely redoing the entire room.

Therefore, I had to try to go smaller. I know going from 80 inches to 75 inches doesn’t sound like a lot but it is. The M80 was just in your face and it exaggerated every single compression artifact in cable/satellite viewing when sitting that close to it. The P75 just seems like a perfect fit for my room now.

Originally I had wanted that “immerse yourself in the TV” feel that you get from an IMAX theater and the M80 did that very well. Too well in fact. My wife always gets sick at an IMAX movie and the same could be said of the one time she watched the M80.

The damage might have been done already and my wife probably won’t even give the P75 a chance now. However, I had to try. It just isn’t as much fun watching a giant TV by yourself.

So I sold the M80 to a lucky guy out there that got a screaming good deal on a HUGE TV. But in the end I think the P75 is the right TV for my needs.

My observations so far are that HOLY COW is this thing bright! At 100% it is like staring at the sun, bright. I do amateur solar astronomy so I know what that actually is like(Just kidding of course. I always use the proper filters with Solar).

I am not fond of the new tablet remote at all. It is just clumsy and takes way too long to adjust settings for the testing that I do. I am not a big fan at all of the new way of doing the operating system and the remote. It isn’t a deal killer for me but I am certain it will be a deal killer for some people out there. I understand why Vizio did it but that doesn’t mean I like it. Maybe I will get accustomed to it or maybe I won’t.

The good thing is that once you get the settings adjusted you shouldn’t need to touch it that often.

I think the biggest difference besides how bright it is would be how vivid you can get the colors. The M80 would just clip or posterize if you pushed the colors past REC.709. This P75 just seems to keep going.

My recommendation to everyone is abandon REC.709 if you get the 2016 P-series. Why cripple your TV just to conform to a standard that might be older than you? You are just spiting yourself then. Turn the backlight way above 100 Nits, push the colors past the REC.709 limits, and above all else just set the darn thing to what looks good to you.

I would tell you the exact opposite with the M80 simply because the TV was the limiting factor in that case. If you pushed it at all you actually made the picture worse in some cases.

If you truly insist on calibrating to REC.709 strictly then don’t buy the 2016 P-series. Buy a 2016 D-series or perhaps the new 2016 M-series, or even buy a deeply discounted 2015 M-series used like some lucky guy out there did with my M80. You are wasting one of the huge benefits of this TV if you fail to let go of the antiquated REC.709 standard.

I tested all of the Dolby Vision movies on Vudu and they looked great. They are definitely better than Blu ray and definitely better than UHD HDR Blu ray with a non HDR TV. However, they didn’t quite have the color pop that I was looking for with the default settings. I still have to play with it some more but I was going all the way up to 60 for color before I was seeing the colors that I was expecting.

The interesting thing is that the information menu indicated that I was getting an HDR signal but the TV didn’t take control of any of the settings like the HDR10 TVs do. I found that strange. The whole point of the HDR colors is that you maximize the full potential of the TV instead of limiting yourself to a single standard that your TV might be able to exceed by a significant margin. However, this could have been because I was in a derived color mode instead of the default "Calibrated" mode.

If the TV doesn’t take control of the settings then I don’t know how you could know how to adjust the settings to maximize the color potential of the TV.

"Edit 4-13-2016"

You must select either the Calibrated or Calibrated Dark setting for the TV to take control of the settings and display HDR properly. If you edit the presets or use a derived profile you will not actually be watching true HDR. Calibrated Dark is the most accurate setting. However, Calibrated uses a gamma of 2.1 so that gives you a little more shadow detail if you so desire.

I also think that RTINGS recommendations to turn sharpness to zero are asinine. Like the M-series you will introduce blurriness by doing that. Even RTINGS.com now admits that turning it to 20 helps resolve the issue that they artificially introduced. They also suggest using the noise controls. I only recommend that if you have an overly compressed source.

Try 8-14 for sharpness on compressed sources like cable/Satellite and 14-18 for high quality sources.

I found it interesting that it appears that RTINGS.com tested the Vizio P-series resolution without local dimming turned on. This exposes some shadow detail with the Vizio TV that other TVs clip out.

Here are some crops of the Vizio P-series and the Sony X930D. Notice how the edges of the roofline appear as brighter highlights on the Vizio? RTINGS claims that it is a sharpness issue. However, if you look at the black levels throughout the picture you can see that nothing is truly black. It almost looks like they have turned the local dimming off and maybe even turned the brightness up to expose shadow details that aren’t shown in the Sony image.

X930D 480p


P-series 480p


I really do not believe that the Vizio TV is being given a fair shake on resolution and detail with lower resolution sources. It is the only one of RTINGS.com tests that are totally subjective. The rating for that section is entirely based on his subjective opinion.

Also take a look at the 4K images from the P-series vs. the Sony. How in the world could he judge both of these pictures to be a 10? Even the 4K image from the Vizio has the issues he mentions. However, the image is washed out and I do not believe that he is using the proper settings for this test to maximize the potential of the Vizio TV.

X930D 4K


Vizio P-series


As far as motion handling goes. I think the M80 was better for that. And I know that RTINGS.com says the exact opposite. Instead what I am saying is that they are both great for motion with the proper settings. A difference of 5 ms of pixel lag is meaningless if both TVs have less than 1 Frame of pixel lag(.016667 ms). He also blew the overshoot way out of proportion for the 2015 M-series.

The bottom line is that with the right settings both the 2015 M-series and the 2016 P-series are excellent for sports motion handling.

My biggest surprise was with video games. I got to play Black Ops 3 on the PS4 with my son last night. We each have our own PS4. He has his hooked up to the M55 and mine is on the P75 and so we both get a full screen experience when we play online together.

I really was impressed with the input lag, black levels, and the colors with the P75. It just made for a great gaming experience for me. I am not a huge fan of Black Ops III on the PS4 either. I much prefer to play it on the computer hooked up to the TV with 1080p @ 120 FPS. I didn’t get to try that last night but I know that it will be great when I do get around to trying it.

Overall I am very pleased with the P75. I won’t be trading this TV out anytime soon. It fits my needs perfectly.

My recommendations for settings for now are below. However, these will change as I get more time with the TV. I hope this write up helps everyone in their buying decisions.

Auto Brightness Control: OFF (Only turn it on if the TV is outside in bright sunlight. Don’t put a P75 outside in bright sunlight. That is just a bad idea.)

Backlight: 74 (This is totally subjective. Just pick what looks best to you.)

Brightness: 50

Contrast: 50

Color: 50-53 (depending on source)

Sharpness:
8-14 (Start with 14 and adjust to your liking from there. If you feel that you need to go below 8 then turn on Reduce Block Noise to low instead)

Tint: 0 (Just use the individual color controls if you need specific color adjustments)

Color Temperature: Normal (Use Computer if you want the whites to be closer to white than they are to yellow)

Black Detail: Off (Use Gamma instead of this setting if you need to adjust shadow detail)

Active LED Zones: On (Leave it on unless you see brightness pumping from text on the screen)

Reduce Judder: 0 (Reduce judder needs to be set to 1 in order for Reduce Motion Blur to activate. Reduce Motion Blur can cause significant lip sync issues. I do not recommend using it.)

Reduce Motion Blur: 0 (I couldn’t get this setting to work properly. You have to set Reduce Judder to 1 or greater for it to engage. I believe it will be fixed with a firmware update)


Clear Action:
Off (Turn this setting on for PS4 or other 60 FPS console games. It will cause some flickering if GLL is enabled as well.)

GLL: On for everything but perhaps HDR sources (Turning this setting off can cause lip sync issues as well as cause artifacts to be more apparent in overly compressed material.)

Reduce Signal Noise: off pretty much always

Reduce Block Noise: off or Low with an overly compressed source.

Film Mode: Auto

Color Space: Auto(Use RGB for some computer sources)

Gamma: 2.2(Try 1.8 if you want more shadow detail and less clipping or 2.4 if you want more clipping.)
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post #5223 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vader182 View Post
This is very worrying for me as well. I watch a lot of my content through my late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro through MKV via HDMI / lightning into my panny plasma. Whichever TV I choose to purchase must be compatible to that end.


-Vader
Hi there,

Have you tried streaming those with Plex at all? Just trying to offer another possible solution.

Thanks
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post #5224 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spine Guy View Post
Not to jump off P series topic but that recover looks solid.

If a receiver has atmos, can we assume it has Dolby True HD? I would just make sure it covers dts-hd and as many formats as possible.

Idiot question: I went to buy DV movies from vudu but they all say UHD and not DV. Heart of the sea, Lego etc. I did this via my iPad and vudu's webpage, not the app. I'm trying to load up my library for "testing" Friday when the P75 arrives. So are those the right movies and will kick in to DV when I cast?
It will say UHD, but when you look at more details the movie will show a "DV" icon. Just click the movie on Vudu as if you want to read more about it.
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post #5225 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:46 AM
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Wink

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Originally Posted by GardenVariety View Post
You're missing my point entirely. I believe you are placing too much responsibility on the scalar and not enough on the simple assertion that blowing up a compressed image produces a much less desirable image. How about an LG OLED? How about a 55" P series? How about any decent 55"? I can assure you that your Sharp's scaling was average at best.
What he said.
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post #5226 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
The interesting thing is that the information menu indicated that I was getting an HDR signal but the TV didn’t take control of any of the settings like the HDR10 TVs do. I found that strange. The whole point of the HDR colors is that you maximize the full potential of the TV instead of limiting yourself to a single standard that your TV might be able to exceed by a significant margin.

If the TV doesn’t take control of the settings then I don’t know how you could know how to adjust the settings to maximize the color potential of the TV.
This is wrong.


If you are in calibrated or calibrated dark mode, the tv will switch to separate settings when dolby vision is detected and the backlight will drop to 50. So you must be in standard or something else.


Nevertheless, it does react differently because Dolby Vision takes control of the TV on a much deeper level than merely settings like HDR10 TVs so it's not nearly the same.
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post #5227 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by atbroome View Post
After about 2 weeks with my P65, I've decided its still a keeper. And that is after not having watched anything in DV since last weekend.



Regarding my FIOS picture, I'm not sure if I've tweaked the settings properly, I've adjusted to the bigger screen, or I've been watching different shows but I am now very happy with how it looks. I just re-setup the old Sony 40" XBR3 in the basement and watching 1080p netflix via a Ruku3, my reactions were: 1)wow, this thing is small 2)It doesn't look as smooth as I remember 3) wow, this thing is dim and the blacks are awful



I am down to one intermittent issue that sounds like the video stuttering some are reporting with PC based sources. I've noticed it mostly via FIOS at 1080i and a few times on Netflix. But the majority of my viewing has been via FIOS so that may be why I've noticed it there the most.



It can't be the the HDMI cable since a) I'm using the same HDMI cable as with my old TV b) its happening via Netflix which is internal. Note that I am currently AVR-less so all sources are connected directly to the TV. I'll have to check some of the recorded shows on the TiVo to see if the stuttering happens there as well.


I would switch out your HDMI cable (use the one Vizio supplied) if you are having issues over your HDMI. While it may have worked with the old TV, things are different now and TVs can be picky about their cables

Video stuttering can be related to a number of things up to and including the motion settings on the TV.
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post #5228 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:53 AM
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With the tablet is it possible to calibrate presets to multiple color spaces (srgb, Adobe rgb, etc) or would that be limited to the number of color temperature options?
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post #5229 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kruppa View Post
Agreed. Mine is basically the same. Don't notice in center, can see them from off angle, worse on lighter colors like hockey.

Highly doubt any sets won't have it.
So I played panel lottery and the second set is considerably better; to the point where to notice the banding or DSE one would have to watch the TV from an extreme angle. On the first TV it was driving me nuts while watching hockey or soccer. The second one I seldom notice it and when I do it is negligible to the point where it doesn't bother me at all.
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post #5230 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 07:58 AM
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Question

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Originally Posted by alexanderg823 View Post
This is wrong.

If you are in calibrated or calibrated dark mode, the tv will switch to separate settings when dolby vision is detected and the backlight will drop to 50. So you must be in standard or something else.


Nevertheless, it does react differently because Dolby Vision takes control of the TV on a much deeper level than merely settings like HDR10 TVs so it's not nearly the same.
It isn't a wrong statement. It just might not be the ideal settings. The Tv didn't take control of the settings. That I am sure of.

Yea I thought that was odd. However, it was showing that the TV was in HDR Mode in the information screen on the TV. I was in a color mode based off of calibrated. Do I literally have to be in "Calibrated" or can it be a derived color mode?
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post #5231 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:01 AM
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Did you miss the part about it happening in Netflix casting too? And for the HDMI cable from the FIOS box, it seems really suspect that a cable that worked fine with my old TV and is only pushing a 1080i signal could be the problem.

I've tried motion settings from 0 to 10 and I've still seen the problem. It's clearly not judder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
I would switch out your HDMI cable (use the one Vizio supplied) if you are having issues over your HDMI. While it may have worked with the old TV, things are different now and TVs can be picky about their cables

Video stuttering can be related to a number of things up to and including the motion settings on the TV.

Vizio P65-C1

Last edited by atbroome; 04-11-2016 at 08:04 AM.
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post #5232 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:02 AM
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Red face

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Originally Posted by ShahrozH View Post
So I played panel lottery and the second set is considerably better; to the point where to notice the banding or DSE one would have to watch the TV from an extreme angle. On the first TV it was driving me nuts while watching hockey or soccer. The second one I seldom notice it and when I do it is negligible to the point where it doesn't bother me at all.
My P75 doesn't have noticeable Dirty Screen. My M80 had some like most of the other M80s had.
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post #5233 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:05 AM
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With regards to upscaling

You can get a 4K upscaling AV receivers (with HDCP 2.2) for well under $1000 that have upscaling settings for each individual HDMI input. So for example if you want to watch 720p cable TV, that HDMI input can be set to upscale to 4K. OTOH, when you switch to your UHD Blu-ray input, upscaling will be turned off automatically.

I'm told the upscaling quality of these mid-end receivers is not top tier, but it's acceptable, and possibly better than what you get out of the Vizio.

What is the upscaler chip in the Vizio? I'm curious.
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post #5234 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by atomic4877 View Post
It's just odd. I made sure it was fully charged when I first got it and let it run down to empty as I do with all of my devices. It took a few days for it to die. Then once charged again it had the same battery life. But on the third charge and now every charge after it dies rapidly.
Is normal, is like any other tablet or phone. The greater the brightness the more battery it will use. Adjust brightness about 15%-20%, it should be good to view. Maybe down the line they will update the OS for better battery life. For now decrease the brightness.

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post #5235 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by atbroome View Post
Did you miss the part about it happening in Netflix casting too? And for the HDMI cable from the FIOS box, it seems really suspect that a cable that worked fine with my old TV and is only pushing a 1080i signal could be the problem.



I've tried motion settings from 0 to 10 and I've still seen the problem. It's clearly not judder.


I did not miss that. Random stuttering can be a number of things. I was focusing on the HDMI issue and its not suspect at all, it's one of the first things you should try in troubleshooting.
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post #5236 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:30 AM
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It sounds to me like you need to downgrade to a 55" or smaller TV. I would actually suggest you look for a 1080P plasma, maybe a last run Panasonic or Samsung? If not, there isn't one 4K TV that makes compressed 720P cable look great. You need a smaller screen to hide the lack of details.
LG has a 1080P 55" OLED (no idea how it performs) for roughly the same price as the P65.

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post #5237 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rick98761 View Post
I really hope we get a firmware update soon. My tv just locked up 3 times while watching a movie. It's totally random. Sometimes it works flawless after the first lockup about 10 minutes in. Sometimes it keeps doing it. I've tried changing cables, ports, etc. The only thing I haven't done is taken the AVR out of the equation. Because even if that fixes it, it's not a real fix. The AVR has worked perfect with two other TVs. I know it's fine.

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What were you watching at the time?

Mine has done this several times, but it's only been while 4k content has been ramping up. Seems to happen as the 4k actually kicks in.

Just a little bug imo. I'm not worried about it personally.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I found out from last firmware update Display doesn't power cycle thru leaving a signal bug. 4K, DV. Go to settings, do a service check and them do a service reset. This will power cycle correctly clearing the bug. Worked for me and since them never again. Now is mint.

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post #5238 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
It isn't a wrong statement. It just might not be the ideal settings. The Tv didn't take control of the settings. That I am sure of.

Yea I thought that was odd. However, it was showing that the TV was in HDR Mode in the information screen on the TV. I was in a color mode based off of calibrated. Do I literally have to be in "Calibrated" or can it be a derived color mode?
It is indeed a wrong statement. Just because you can modify the settings doesn't mean the TV doesn't take control of it. For example, you won't find a single color gamut setting anywhere on the TV however Dolby Vision content absolutely operates outside of Rec 709.


I haven't done any testing on color modes, but I know that only calibrated and calibrated dark have unique DV profiles that trigger when DV content is played.
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post #5239 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:42 AM
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I have the p55. It's fine. Just buy it. If you don't like it then send it back. Not really an issue at Best Buy. After extensive trial and error of messing with tv settings, pc settings, and cables, I found out my judder is coming from having dual displays on my gtx 970. Never had issues with my other tvs but for what ever reason I was able to notice the judder on the p55. My only regret now is not getting the p65 lol.
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post #5240 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rongopongo View Post
I have the p55. It's fine. Just buy it. If you don't like it then send it back. Not really an issue at Best Buy. After extensive trial and error of messing with tv settings, pc settings, and cables, I found out my judder is coming from having dual displays on my gtx 970. Never had issues with my other tvs but for what ever reason I was able to notice the judder on the p55. My only regret now is not getting the p65 lol.
Only one thing to do...bring it back and upgrade!
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post #5241 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:51 AM
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welp, I was going to buy a new P50 this weekend at Best Buy in San Jose. They had a sale on the JU7100 and I was hoping to go in, compare, and walk out with a tv thats got me covered from a tech standpoint for the next 2-3 years. Funny thing about exclusives is that you are entirely reliant on the company whom has the exclusive to use it for their gains. In this case BestBuy had a model on the floor with the array of other 50" solutions, but it wasn't even hooked up. Total sad face. And to top it off, despite a busy weekend, they had just one guy in the TV section. SO after waiting 25 mins and my toddler and 1yo started to get restless, I had to walk out. Say goodbye to $1k plus extended warranty!

I'm going to try my hardest to hold off until Fall. In the meantime, I hope the Vizio guys do a good job of sending reps to the BB stores to check out just how the TV is being marketed. I understand there's a need to liquidate 2015 inventory, but why enter in an exclusive with a big box store?

Big thanks to the diligent authors on this post, at least I get a better understanding of quality issues, cool features, etc.. I think holding off til fall will give some time for the honeymoons to wear off and to get a more realistic view of this magic beats-all set.

Anyone see any protective cases for the tablet? I've got two destructive kids and just worried how sturdy the tablet is and what the options are.
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post #5242 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexanderg823 View Post
It is indeed a wrong statement. Just because you can modify the settings doesn't mean the TV doesn't take control of it. For example, you won't find a single color gamut setting anywhere on the TV however Dolby Vision content absolutely operates outside of Rec 709.


I haven't done any testing on color modes, but I know that only calibrated and calibrated dark have unique DV profiles that trigger when DV content is played.
Actually your statement is wrong. From my observations last night if you are using a derived color profile it doesn’t adjust any settings at all. Not color, Not Brightness, Not Backlight, nothing. It possibly might not actually be displaying true HDR in that case. I was not impressed by the colors with the derived settings and the default color value. I had to manually make adjustments to make it look better.

You can absolutely extend the colors of a TV past REC.709 without being in an “HDR” specific color gamut. The issue is that they can clip if you do that.

I think the issue might be that unless you are in a default color profile mode you aren’t actually watching HDR with this particular TV. I will try to confirm this tonight.
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post #5243 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:54 AM
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I think it would serve us better if we could feed the P with native. Unfortunately there's not native mode on the X1 platform. I use 1080i.
WOW, that's surprising...another good reason to put that funny UFO on the side of your house.

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post #5244 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bakatadi View Post
They had a sale on the JU7100 and I was hoping to go in, compare, and walk out with a tv thats got me covered from a tech standpoint for the next 2-3 years.
The JU7100 is already obsolete. It isn't even a Wide Color Gamut TV.
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post #5245 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by isaurio View Post
I found out from last firmware update Display doesn't power cycle thru leaving a signal bug. 4K, DV. Go to settings, do a service check and them do a service reset. This will power cycle correctly clearing the bug. Worked for me and since them never again. Now is mint.


Sounds great. I'll give it a try tonight. I tried doing a service check the other night, but it didn't seem to do anything.
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post #5246 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 09:00 AM
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Apologies if this has been stated already (this thread is massive), but from a "best bang for your buck perspective" it seems that the M series is pretty close to the P in picture quality that if we're buying now, the M makes more sense?

Thanks
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post #5247 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
It isn't a wrong statement. It just might not be the ideal settings. The Tv didn't take control of the settings. That I am sure of.

Yea I thought that was odd. However, it was showing that the TV was in HDR Mode in the information screen on the TV. I was in a color mode based off of calibrated. Do I literally have to be in "Calibrated" or can it be a derived color mode?
Has to be in Calibrated Dark (Dolby's recommended setting)... If you edit the PM, it will hold your edits.

See page 1, Post 1... Lots's of observations and notes.
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Vizio 2016 P series FAQ, general info and Help
Home Theater Geeks: The Vizio P Series 2016 Show w/Scott, Tyler & Tom
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post #5248 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
Actually your statement is wrong. From my observations last night if you are using a derived color profile it doesn’t adjust any settings at all. Not color, Not Brightness, Not Backlight, nothing. It possibly might not actually be displaying true HDR in that case. I was not impressed by the colors with the derived settings and the default color value. I had to manually make adjustments to make it look better.

You can absolutely extend the colors of a TV past REC.709 without being in an “HDR” specific color gamut. The issue is that they can clip if you do that.

I think the issue might be that unless you are in a default color profile mode you aren’t actually watching HDR with this particular TV. I will try to confirm this tonight.
rofl, k buddy. another one of the "i'm never wrong" types.


I've only sat around with the tv for almost 2 weeks and played around with the settings while in dolby vision content for literally dozens of hours now.
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post #5249 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by buffalofloyd View Post
T

I'm using this as a PC monitor with Windows 7 and a GTX970 on HDMI-1 and HDMI-5 from dual HDMI outs on my Denon X4200W, no video processing applied. On HDMI-1 running at 4K@60Hz 4:4:4 8bit (I couldn't not select a 10bit option in the NVIDIA program) and the colors are not bad. Everything is so tiny, and yes, I knew it would be but to visualize it and then try to use it, it's very difficult from 9 feet away. Not a knock on the display at all, just and observation. I haven't messed with any calibration aside from turning most features off, like judder and blur reduction, all noise reduction, just to see how it performed most raw. I never used any such features on the Sammy either. My complaints aren't with the looks of the display but in how the performance has been for me with the equipment I have.

HTPC EXPERIENCE:
When using the display for normal Windows use it is seems rough, movements of the mouse, dragging windows or other things, etc. Nothing seems really fluid when I compare it to my older TV. I'd have to imagine it's due to the larger resolution but I really don't know. My main gripe is in using KODI and MPC-HC as media players. I get stuttering/slow motion type of artifacts when playing movies that are 23.967fps, typically your blu-rays and such. Usually videos and movies will play fine for a minute or so, sometimes more, and then inevitably hit a point where the stutter/slow down, then it will rectify itself and repeat. This seems to happen in KODI more than MPC-HC as far as I can tell. Again, my setup is the same as it was with my old TV, which was nice and smooth, and the only thing really changing is the resolution, no? Up from 1080p to 2160p, same 60Hz, same 4:4:4 8bit. I'm also experiencing anomalies with the sound.

Within KODI I had a option "sync playback to display" (picture below) selected for my 1080p Sammy and the video and sound were fine, perfect. If I have that box checked in KODI with the Vizio the video will run fine but I get audio glitches and dropouts. If I uncheck it, it is the opposite, the audio is fine and the video gets stuttery at times. The option to "adjust display refresh rate" within KODI just makes a mess of everything, which I expected but I don't remember if I tested on my Samsung. MPC-HC seems to play files a little bit better but still with the same video issues and occasional audio issues. This makes me thing it could be a software related issue but I can't understand why it's happening with this TV. For me personally, whether it's the display, software, or a combination of both, I am not getting along with it on that front.

In closing, I really want to love this TV. Can someone tell me why I should keep it? Is none of this the TV's fault? Are any of you PC users experiencing similar issues as I am? I'm curious to hear about them. I don't want to return this TV but I feel I might have to. I also know there are a lot of people who seem to love the TV but might also not have the same type of media configuration as I do, so I understand this. Just interested to hear from the masses out there.

[

Jim
Not sure if you included more info about your hardware. How much RAM you using what speed, Motherboard? What CPU you using, Overclock? HDD or SD? All drives up to date. Kodi up to date? Codecs up to date? Going from a small 52" to a 65" your PC needs to push more power to display that 4K 4:4:4 10bit. Just having a good GPU wont cut it. MAke sure your OS is optimize not running crappy services on the background.

I'm running the nvidia shield on my P65 at 4K@60hz 10 bit. It is smooth as hell. Installed Kodi no problem and picture are on point. Even the 480 looks good for its resolution, tried all resolution at different rate, Display did a great job on handling it. FYI Shield is on WIFI 2.4Ghz. A good HDMI is key for displaying that resolution. Nvidia shield bring a thick ass HDMI and i give them props for that, thumbs up. They know was up

My 2 cent. Maybe this TV/Display is not for you, go back to a <50" or invest another 2K on a better TV. Or make sure your hardware is doing its job to handle 4K and bigger screen

But is your opinion and get whatever fits your taste.
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post #5250 of 52169 Old 04-11-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
My recommendation to everyone is abandon REC.709 if you get the 2016 P-series. Why cripple your TV just to conform to a standard that might be older than you? You are just spiting yourself then. Turn the backlight way above 100 Nits, push the colors past the REC.709 limits, and above all else just set the darn thing to what looks good to you.

I would tell you the exact opposite with the M80 simply because the TV was the limiting factor in that case. If you pushed it at all you actually made the picture worse in some cases.

If you truly insist on calibrating to REC.709 strictly then don’t buy the 2016 P-series. Buy a 2016 D-series or perhaps the new 2016 M-series, or even buy a deeply discounted 2015 M-series used like some lucky guy out there did with my M80. You are wasting one of the huge benefits of this TV if you fail to let go of the antiquated REC.709 standard.
My primary issue with the 2015 series was that it couldn't even reach rec. 709. Reds in particular were really bad, the display seemed physically unable to show 100% red. On top of that, red tones shifted poorly depending on saturation. After calibrating it to get a good skin tone I would have to cringe every time the "Netflix" logo popped up because of how orange it was. So I'm not sure I agree with this recommendation! If the 2016 M series fixes this problem, go wild.
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