Picture from this morning, with room lights on. The reflections are no worse than the previous screen, and haven't been much of a problem for us unless there's direct sunlight (which happens from the right at about 3pm, which is not peak movie time but is a common gaming time)
- The IR remote control is too weak to reach the TV from 10 feet away. I have to walk up to 6 feet or less from it, and aim at the bottom-left corner, for it to work. Generally, I don't like using remotes at all, and this just reinforces the feeling! I will have to wire up an Arduino IR flasher to turn it on once it gets power, and then the remote can go in the drawer-of-almost-never-used-things.
- The black was really gray when playing a game last night. Turns out, the default image control brightness setting of 50 adds too much base light. Turning that down to 46 made it just right.
- I have the image input settings on "game mode," "low latency" and "computer color space" which works great for the way I use it. Haven't measured the input latency for game controllers yet, though.
I've run myself into a bit of a problem:
I started out with a fully-1080p system in 2008 or thereabouts. It was based on a Sony STR receiver/switcher, the Aquos display, a 35 foot HDMI 1 cable run under the floor/through the walls, and going from RCA 7.1 out through a EbTech line level shifter through in-wall balanced wires to the powered speakers.
Last year, the Sony finally wasn't doing it's job anymore, and I had to find a replacement; I ended up with the Emotiva XMC-1. (Say what you want about its rather spare menus, that thing has done the job great; 8 HDMI ins; balanced 7.1 out; just what the doctor ordered! And the third-party Android remote app for it is just right.)
Separately, I've upgraded PS/3 to PS/4, Xbox/360 to Xbox/One, old MacMini to ChromeCast Ultra, and so forth.
Now, with the Vizio E65-E1, all the pieces of the puzzle claim to support 4K!
Except the cable in the floor/walls.
So, trying to watch the second AlphaGo game on YouTube last night, the ChromeCast Ultra (on my receiver, not the one in the TV) went to 4K, and the receiver went to 4K, and the TV thought it should receive 4K, and displayed "No Signal" because the wiring I have isn't up to snuff.
Here's the problem: The TV doesn't have a "downgrade to 1080p" menu option. The ChromeCast doesn't have a "downgrade to 1080p" option. The receiver doesn't have a "downgrade to 1080p" option. So ... suddenly, I find myself in a place where the devices refuse to negotiate a format that would work, and I get no picture.
Things I'm going to try:
- Shift the HDMI output on the XMC-1 to the second HDMI out. (I seem to recall this is 1080p only -- if so, this may solve the problem.) This is the "good enough" solution.
- I have a HDMI 2 signal booster on order from Amazon. We'll see if that can make 4K actually work, which would be sweet! (But not 100% necessary right now -- that's a long term goal.) If this option works, I need to do nothing else, and it's a full win!
- I also have a 50 foot HDMI 2 cable on order from Amazon. (What, a passive cable, 50 feet, HDMI 2 certified? I'm not 100% sure that's actually true, but we'll see.) The drawback, if this option works, is that I have to crawl under the house (about 2ft of crawl space) and fish the new cable through the walls.
In 2008, I also ran an optical (TOS-link) cable from the TV recess to the media cabinet in the back. The TV has digital audio out, for using with the built-in ChromeCast, BUT that's coax, not optical. So I guess another option would be to get a Coax->Optical transciever, and use the TV ChromeCast instead of the discrete one I already have on the receiver.
If I find something that's specific to the TV, I'll update this thread; else perhaps I'll post in my other thread.
Anyway: two days in, those are the two headaches (which seems mild compared to what COULD have been... maybe I'm just an optimist :-)