Samsung LN-R328W Discussion thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:12 PM
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You know, looking back on it, I'm honestly not sure if this TV has a 3:2 pulldown mode. Whenever I looked at the results from my LaserDisc player (S-Video), it did look like everything was being deinterlaced in the traditional method with lots of little flickery pixel artifacts...

Can anyone confirm?

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Old 06-09-2005, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyris View Post

You know, looking back on it, I'm honestly not sure if this TV has a 3:2 pulldown mode. Whenever I looked at the results from my LaserDisc player (S-Video), it did look like everything was being deinterlaced in the traditional method with lots of little flickery pixel artifacts...

Can anyone confirm?

I actually called Samsung tech support about this issue. The tech researched it and said that "film mode" is always on on this TV. Would be pretty pathetic to not have 3:2 in a 32" LCD.
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Old 06-09-2005, 02:52 PM
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I picked up the Sharp from TV Authority. They do not list the 32D7U on their website, but you can call in and ask about stock and price. As one of the forum sponsors, TV Authority comes highly recommended here at AVS and my opinion is no different. The sales team is top notch.

The 32D7U seems to be popular, though, as stock is scarce. I only just recently started finding it at the local shops out my way.

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Old 06-14-2005, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amirm View Post

Actually pixelation is not a sign of a bad display. On the contrary, it is a sign that the display is sharper and possibly has higher response time. Unless you are seeing some other artifact, pixelation is in the source (compression artifacts of MPEG-2). The sharper the display, the more you notice them.

I should point out that the issue with pixellation on this set is different to this (apologies if this has already been said). It wasn't a result of compression, it genuinely was the scaler - even the menus on my DVD player when set to 1080i over HDMI had the pixellation. Very offputting indeed.

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Old 06-16-2005, 07:23 AM
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Just got my LNR328W home last night. Hooked it up quickly via component cables to my Scientific Atlanta 3250HD STB and it looks pretty good. Have not fiddled with any of the picture settings (other than to change Dynamic to Standard) yet but plan to spend some time this weekend tweaking w/ DVE. Plan to hook up a Sony progressive scan DVD player via component (although I'll also test out my Panny S97 upconverting player which is currently in the living room to see how the display performs). Also plan to connect the STB via a DVI-HDMI hybrid cable.

One thing that seems weird though - I have the display attached to the included stand and it seems to be titled downward slightly. If you look at it from the side, the screen is not perpendicular w/ the tabletop it's resting on. Actually not a big deal b/c my bed is a little lower than the dresser so it works well but just wondering if this is how it's supposed to work. I attached all four screws pretty tightly and it doens't look like the stand is adjustable at all.

Will post more thoughts on the display once I have a chance to play.
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:49 PM
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I purchased this set Monday. I would like to thank all on this board for the notes and advice (both positive and negative). It came down to the Samsung and the Sharp. As this is now my main living room TV the better half was brought into the decision making process. We chose the Samsung over the Sharp for these reasons:

1) Contrast ratio - Black levels seemed deeper on the Samsung.
2) Speakers - We have limited shelf space for the TV. The speakers on the Sharp made it too wide for us.
3) Appearance - The Samsung looks like a piece of art, the Sharp looked like an industrial machine. We have already had a couple of people over since Monday and all have been impressed with TV design and style.
4) Overall HD picture. After tweaking the sets at BB the Samsung just looked better. The HD picture "wow'ed" us more than the Sharp.

Don't get me wrong, the Sharp was an excellent TV. We are extremely happy with our Samsung purchase. DVDs look amazing and even basic DirecTV in 4:3 looks good (not great but think about the source).

For the other Samsung owners, what do you have your TV calibrated at? Using AVIA via the DVD Component inputs (I don't yet have an HDMI capatible player) I ended up with the following mods. I'm very curious to see what others came up with as this is my first time tweaking a non-CRT set. Please post your calibration scores. Thanks!

DVD viewing via HDMI:
Dynamic Contrast and Brightness Sensor - Off
Contrast 85
Brightness 42
Sharpness 35
Color 31
Tint 50/50
Tone Color Normal

SD viewing via S-Video (darn DirecTV and their lousy DVR connections):
Dynamic Contrast and Brightness Sensor - Off
Contrast 85
Brightness 49
Sharpness 35
Color 34
Tint 51/49
Tone Color Warm1

I do not yet have any HD input sources.


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Old 06-17-2005, 07:35 AM
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Do people generally recommend turning Sharpness down to zero on these sets? On my Sammy DLP that's what I do as Sharpness seems to have no real impact and most people suggest you set it at zero - wondering if this applies for their LCDs - haven't had a chance to play around yet.

One other thing I noticed in my limited time watching HD on this set. When I change channels on my 3250HD STB, there is a couple of second flicker as the TV converts the resolution of the channel. Not sure if this is the STB or the TV. I am currently using component cables with all output resolutions (480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i) enabled on the STB. Going to try DVI/HDMI as well but wondering if others were experiencing this flicker with different STBs?
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:28 AM
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Flicker is pretty much a given. It takes a little while to lock onto the MPEG stream, negotiate whether it is authorized, and start decoding. Changing connections is not going to help you.
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:41 AM
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But is it the box or the display? On my Sammy DLP connected via HDMI to a 8300HD DVR there is no flicker and the channel changes happen even quicker which doesn't make sense given that the DVR is actually buffering when it changes channels.

So I'm hoping it's the box, not the display.
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Old 06-25-2005, 05:43 PM
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Had some time to tweak my LNR-328W today - first order of business is to decide whether or not to keep it or return it and get a Sharp. Then I want to figure out what cable box I should use and how I should hook it up.

I currently have two cable boxes in my home - an SA 3250HD (connected to the Sammy LCD in the bedroom) and an SA 8300HD DVR (connected to my Sammy DLP in the living room). I have the 3250HD connected via component cables currently but I tried hooking it up via DVI/HDMI and also moved the 8300 into the bedroom and hooked that up with both component and HDMI/HDMI to the LCD. I had the HDNet and INHD test patterns saved on the DVR so I was able to do a basic calibration of both HDMI and Component and also popped in DVE to do a calibration of my Sony DVD player (connected via component w/ progressive scan turned off). What I did not do was move my Panasonic S97 HDMI DVD player into the bedroom to test that out and run a DVE calibration, although based on the settings I use in the living room I doubt they would translate well for a STB.

Component Inputs

The good news is the calibration results I got on the component inputs using both DVE and the HD test patterns were virtually identical:

Dynamic Contrast - Off (see below)
Contrast - 90
Brightness -48
Sharpness - 0
Color - 42
Tint - 50/50
Color Tone - Normal

Overall I'm quite pleased w/ the picture quality on the 3250 over component. HD looks great, and SD is better than I expected. On the 3250 I can pass through all of the output resolutions (480i, 720p and 1080i) but when I change channels it takes the cable box a second or two to dial in the resolution, which is annoying (I have concluded that this is definitely the cable box's fault and not the TVs as I didn't have the same issues when using the 8300). Before calibration I found the colors on the set were a little too punchy, but think they look a lot better now. Every now and then you'll tune into something where reds look a little too vibrant but skin tones generally seem accurate and don't notice any issues w/ green (although I couldn't get the color decoder to set green or red properly - see below).

With regards to Dynamic Contrast, I personally prefer to leave it off - picture seemed a little too dark, almost crushing detail in dark scenes; skin tones also didn't seem as natural. Clearly this is one of the features that Samsung touts in these displays so I was reluctant to turn it off but I just liked what I saw better. It's tough to do a true A/B comparison though. The brightness levels are so different with DC on vs. off that you need totally distinct calibrations - simply toggling DC on or off isn't really fair. I haven't tried doing separate calibrations - one w/ DC on and one w/ DC off - and storing them each as separate picture modes so that you could fairly quickly toggle DC on or off and swich the picture modes to see which you would prefer.

Motion blur seems minimal to non-existent on this display. Watched some of the Wimbledon action this morning (of course not in HD - thanks as usual NBC Sports) and saw virtually no motion blur from my normal viewing distance, which was a pleasant surprise. On a 130mph Roddick serve didn't see anything. If you get up pretty close you can notice some blur but still not too bad.

DVDs on my basic Sony PS DVD player via component looked excellent. Watch parts of LOTR ROTK and the colors in the opening scene looked incredible. Motion blur in the battle scenes was non-existent. Wasn't planning to get an upscaling player for this display as it's probably overkill for the bedroom but I may test my S97 just to see what it looks like.

HDMI Input

Next I hooked up the 3250 via DVI/HDMI the STB and the first thing I noticed is the the STB won't let you pass through resolutions (again a fault of this STB) so you basically have to pick a single resolution that all channels get converted to. Picture looked good, esp HD (as good or marginally better than component but not a huge difference), although SD didn't look as good as component. The fact that the STB converts all 480i channels and 720p channels to 1080i (you could choose to have everything converted to 720p instead) most likely has a negative impact on PQ, esp. SD. Didn't spend much time playing w/ this and couldn't run any test patterns to accurately calibrate, so it's possible the results could get better. I was also experiencing some problems w/ the DVI/HDMI connection (it's definitley not the cable), mostly when I was fiddling w/ the output resolutions on the 3250 - you need to unhook the DVI and use use component and then recoonect. When I reconnected, I often had to reseat the HDMI end of the cable in the Sammy and even though there was a tight connection, I found that I wouldn't get any picture unless I jiggled it a little bit and then the picture would come on. Kind of worried me that the HDMI input on the Sammy may be hypersensitive.

I then hooked up the 8300HD via HDMI/HDMI and tried to calibrate that. Results were as follows:

Dynamic Contrast - Off
Contrast - 85
Brightness - 42
Sharpness - 0
Color - 42
Tint - 50/50
Color Tone - Normal

Again HD looked as good or marginally better than component on the 3250HD but SD still looked a little worse. The 8300 lets you pass through resolutions as is (other than 480i which get converted to 480p) and had much smoother channel changing transitions than the 3250. Don't really need the DVR functionality in the bedroom but if I decide I want a digital connection this box is way better than the 3250.

Tested component briefly on the 8300 and think I preferred component on the 3250.

Red & Green

One thing to note - in all of the calibrations (DVE as well as HDNet and InHD) I was able to set blue properly (Color at 42) but could never get green and red just right. Red seems pretty close but green is definitely off according to the color decoder. Tried fiddling with Tint but it didn't do much. Also tried My Color Control breifly but that didn't appear to do much either. So I ended up just leaving Tint at 50/50. Overall when I watch TV the picture doesn't usually seem to have too much red or green so it doesn't bother me (much), although as mentioned above, when there are problems I would say it's more with the red than with the green. I really need to give it some more time and see what I think.

Initial Conclusion

Ultimately I will probably keep the Sammy. I was most concerned w/ the unnatural color out of the box and based on some of the posts I've read here. I found that by turning Dynamic Contrast off and lowering the Color setting to 42 that skin tones look pretty good (at least to my untrained eye). HD PQ is very impressive (definitely cleaner looking than my 50" DLP) and SD looks better than expected. Black levels are also better than expected, which is very important as I spend the majority of the time watching in a dark room. Finally, I give the Sammy a significant edge over the Sharp models in terms of aesthetics and of course WAF. While it would be nice to get a Sharp w/ CableCard, it sounds like it's a real PITA to get the CC and TVGOS fully functioning and those features definitely make the Sharps more expensive.

Still have the next couple of weeks to decide for sure and I plan to do a fair amount of normal viewing before making a final decision. Ultimately if I keep the Sammy I will need to figure out the STB situation - the 8300 is clearly better if you want to pass a digital signal but the 3250 appears to have the edge if I am ok using component.

The dust that collects on the black bezel is still driving me nuts but I suppose I can live with it. The included microfiber cleaning cloth is pretty nice but even after wiping down the bezel, dust literally collects within minutes.
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Old 06-25-2005, 08:35 PM
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Eric, using the AVIA disc I was able to improve the red and green settings on my LNR328. I set the Easy Control to Custom and via the Detail Contol I made the following changes:

Pink - 0
Green - 75
Blue - 50

I found that after doing this the red and green colors match up much more closely with the AVIA tests of those colors.

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Old 06-26-2005, 08:41 AM
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Interesting. And how does that affect the picture? Does it look natural?
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:29 AM
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I find that it is only a minor change, nothing dramatic. But it seems to tone down a bit of a red push and give greens a more naturalistic color. Things like grass and trees look better while skin tones seem more natural. But again, nothing dramatic and when you use the color control to do comparisons of still picture it seems to affect backgrounds more than people. I have no HD inputs though so this just may be an improvement I see via these less impressive input sources.

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Old 06-27-2005, 11:06 AM
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JudgeSmails (great name by the way)

Will fiddle around w/ MCC when I get a chance. I find it's really distracting the way they split the screen into "original image" vs. "adjusted image" since you are adjusting a shrunken image.

BTW, I edited my longer post up above to provide some more color (no pun intended) on some of my thoughts.
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Old 07-04-2005, 12:16 AM
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Wondering if any LN-R328W owners found have found discrete codes (power/input/etc) for this LCD panel? I've searched through AVS and RemoteCentral, but not had any luck

Also, what's the story with the Samsung LNR3228W? It looks very similar to the LN-R328W ... is it just the all-black faschia that distinguishes these models?
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:30 AM
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hey guys quick question, I am waiting for the Sony v series 32 inch, just wondering how it would compare to the Samsung since the Lcd chips on the both of them were a joint venture between sony/samsung.

Sony has on there new V series ccfl backlighting, does this model of samsung have the same and or simular.

Thanks
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Old 07-04-2005, 09:37 AM
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Quote:


Sony has on there new V series ccfl backlighting, does this model of samsung have the same and or simular.

Most definitely not - the backlight on the Samsung was what I found very disappointing. Not only that but as stated, there's no real control over it.

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Old 07-04-2005, 09:48 AM
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thanks lyris looks like I will be waiting to see how the sony is, less then a month to go.
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Old 07-04-2005, 09:51 AM
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Hopefully it'll be out for me here in Europe too soon. Do you guys in North America have a release date yet? I'm just hearing "August/early September" here.

I have the current KLV26HG2 and love it despite the 15:9 panel. If the new V-series just includes better connectivity, has a full 16:9 panel, a slightly better contrast ratio, it'll be perfect for me.

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Old 07-04-2005, 10:20 AM
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in the Sony style mag it says july,

I am thinking late july early august here.
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Old 07-04-2005, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netarc View Post

Wondering if any LN-R328W owners found have found discrete codes (power/input/etc) for this LCD panel? I've searched through AVS and RemoteCentral, but not had any luck

I have found that most of the discretes (at least the input ones) that I programmed into my MX-500 for my Sammy HLP5063 DLP work fine w/ the LN-R328W. Unfortunately I don't have the information right in front of me but do a search on HLP and discrete codes and there is a big post (that I may have even started) about them. May also try looking on remotecentral for the HLP codes.

As for power on/off, they never worked well on my HLP so I didn't program them and hence haven't tried them on the LN-R.
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Old 07-04-2005, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricScott View Post

I have found that most of the discretes (at least the input ones) that I programmed into my MX-500 for my Sammy HLP5063 DLP work fine w/ the LN-R328W. Unfortunately I don't have the information right in front of me but do a search on HLP and discrete codes and there is a big post (that I may have even started) about them. May also try looking on remotecentral for the HLP codes.

As for power on/off, they never worked well on my HLP so I didn't program them and hence haven't tried them on the LN-R.

Many thanks ... I've since found the power on/off discretes and the PC input discrete ... but I'd like to find VID3/4/5 input discretes - I'll try the HLP5063 and see what it nets me - thanks!
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:01 PM
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judgesmails,

Finally got around to fiddling w/ the My Color Control. Lowered the pink to 0 and left the other two at 50 and it does appear to tone down the reds a little bit.

Basically need to make up my mind in terms of keeping or returning the Sammy this weekend. Think I will ultimtely keep it.

Anyone else out there have any thoughts on the Sammy LCD? You really don't read a whole lot about them on these boards and I'm sure they are selling pretty well.
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Old 07-09-2005, 12:58 PM
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Hey guys, I have a quick question regarding PC calibration. What settings have you set up for "Coarse" and "Fine" under PC -> Image Lock setting.

Thanks.

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Old 07-09-2005, 05:11 PM
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So I was in PC Richards in NYC today and just for kicks asked the salesman what kind of deal he could give me on the LN-R328W. He said he had them in stock and could sell it to me for almost $200 less than what I paid for it about 3 weeks ago, which was already a pretty discounted price (matched off the Internet). I had pretty much decided I was keeping the Sammy so I couldn't resist and bought it. Right now I have the two displays set up side by side and with identical settings they produce pretty different results - the newer one is a little brighter and punchier (which is saying a lot). Went into the SMs of both and they are definitely different firmware versions and have different menu options. Didn't want to mess around in there too much but clearly the settings vary from display to display.

I did a DVE calibration on the new display and found that by turning My Color Control to Pink - 0; Green - 75 and Blue - 50 (with Color at 42) that blue and red look perfect and green is much better than it looked before. So I'm pretty pleased with the new display and feel like I got a super deal - much cheaper than I could have ever gotten the Sharp for.
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Old 07-09-2005, 06:49 PM
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Well I guess my excitement was a little premature. I noticed that the new display has 5 busted pixels. When looking at a completely black screen on a DVE test pattern you see little speckles of light - very small but there are 5 of them scattered around the screen - I can only assume these are blown pixels. My original display didn't have any - I checked it thoroughly again today.

I also checked the color decoder on the old display with the new My Color Control settings (hadn't done that before; just eyeballd it) and turns out that Red and Blue again are perfect and Green is really close. So the new set doesn't seem to have "better" colors.

Think I am going to take the new set back to PCR and see if they will give me a replacement since 10 blown pixels seems like a defective product to me. If they won't I'll demand my money back (it's a day old tv) and keep the higher priced older display.

Makes me feel even better about my Sammy decision though.

BTW, I bought some Monster Screen Clean (which was the reason I was in PCR in the first place) and it does a really good job of cleaning the screen and eliminating the dust (from static electricity) that seemed to immediately appear around the bezel after using the cloth that came with the Sammy.
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Old 07-09-2005, 09:58 PM
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I work for BB, we sell out of this all the time. Im about to pick one up, but Im going to magnolia and thinking wether or not I should wait for the small xbr's. I hate to hear that about the DVI, it may be the unit, Ill hook up a mac mini to it via DVI and post what I find. I have used all my resources as a magnolia AV pro (believe it or not we have extensive sales training, but no matter how much training you get it never comes close to owning the actual product, thats why BB has employee discounts what is the responce time? Is it in the 70;s? or reasonable like 32? Something PC gaming equivilant (my only thing hooked up to it will be the HTPC). I also thought about that 30" philips we carry, great PQ, but color is low, and so is contrast, 600:1 as apposed to 3000:1.

Also, Samsung does, in my opinion, make some of the best PC LCD's around, next to dell, who we know just uses OEM products.
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Old 07-10-2005, 07:43 AM
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The 3000:1 contrast ratio is a little overstated - it's Dynamic contrast ratio and I personally prefer to turn that feature off. Even w/ DCR off I find the contrast is excellent but it's not 5 times better than the Sharp at 600:1.
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:38 PM
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So I brought the defective display back to PCR and they swapped it out for a new one. I actually wanted to just get my money back and keep the higher priced display so I didn't have to deal w/ the headaches but they wouldn't do it. I brought DVE with me and insisted that they let me test it out, specifically to look for blown pixels.

Did a quick calibration when I got home and the results were almost identical to the other June build display I had gotten from PCR and again different from the May build I had originally.

So I boxed up the original and brought it back to CC. Their whole return policy is pretty unbelievable. They didn't even ask me why I was returning a $2000 TV althought I offered that I had gotten a much better deal. They had some random salesman remove the display and plug it in to an outlet just to see if it would turn on. It did and that was enough for them - didn't hook it up to a video feed, examine it or check serial numbers.

Here's the kicker though. When I originally purchased the display from CC the salesman kind of slipped the extended warranty on the invoice. He said it's really no big deal to cancel it and since I wasn't taking delivery of the display for a few weeks I figured I would probably just cancel then (especially after I read the paper work and saw that despite what the salesman had told me, the EW ran concurrently w/ Sammy's 1 year MFG warranty). So when I went to pick up the set I asked to cancel the warranty. They told me they could do it but they couldn't credit my credit card and had to mail me a check. Was a little annoyed but figured it wouldn't be a big deal. Check actually arrived the other day for the full cost of the EW plus tax (almost $500). So today when I return the display to CC and they see my receipt with the EW on it, they credit me for the full amount of the TV plus the warranty. I stopped the cashier and pointed out that I had already cancelled and been reimbursed for the EW and that she was crediting me too much (tried to do the right thing). Not only did she not seem to care but when I asked her if she wanted to get a manager to look into it, she said don't worry about it. So not sure if they will ultimately catch this - I tried to point it out to them - but if they don't let's just say I got a REALLY good deal on the Sammy.
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:47 PM
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