Sceptre X37SV-Naga review - Page 124 - AVS Forum
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post #3691 of 3746 Old 12-01-2007, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakujin View Post

I did not think of that... thanks a lot. I moved the wii back into the game room because of this problem. Yes, I have a component to VGA adapter. I originally used it with the 360 since I was running optical but wanted to put that RGB port to good use so this will work. I'll see if they have one at radio shack. I do see lets of mini stereo headphone to headphone (2 to 1) online but don't see this one yet.

Try this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

It's a bit of a ripoff, but what can you do? There are also full cables with 2 female RCAs on one end and 1/8 inch stereo headphone plug on the other end, but usually the ones at radio shack have male RCAs and then you'd need male to male RCA couplers. The cost can get out of hand quickly, unless you buy online at monoprice or similar. Something like this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
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post #3692 of 3746 Old 12-03-2007, 02:36 PM
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Ok, no help from Sceptre because the TV is out of warranty. Any ideas???


Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGST View Post

I have an early Sceptre 37" Naga that I purchased from Costco about 2.5 years ago. Up until about two weeks ago, it has worked great and overall, I've been very happy with it.

Now, after it's been on for about 30 minutes, it suddenly turns off. When this happens, it cannot be turned on with the remote or power button under the bezel. The only option is to unplug it from the wall, wait 5 to 10 seconds and then plug it back in.

Sometimes, it only happens once and then it will stay on fine for the evening. Other times, it shuts down several times within in hour. I have emailed Sceptre tech support but have not heard back yet.

Any ideas???

If it helps, the firmware is:
Debug 0104
05/08/28 23:00
T370HW01

As far as I know, this is what the TV shipped with.

Thanks!

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post #3693 of 3746 Old 12-03-2007, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGST View Post

Ok, no help from Sceptre because the TV is out of warranty. Any ideas???

Power supply.
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post #3694 of 3746 Old 12-04-2007, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valence01 View Post

Power supply.

Hmm, ok. Sounds plausible.
What's odd is that it doesn't seem like an overheating issue because it happens when the TV has only been on for as little as 15 to 20 minutes then when I unplug/replug it, it may not happen again for an hour or two...or sometimes it does happen again within 20 to 30 minutes. It's not consistent and then there are times when it doesn't happen at all.

Thanks.
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post #3695 of 3746 Old 12-12-2007, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valence01 View Post

Try this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

It's a bit of a ripoff, but what can you do? There are also full cables with 2 female RCAs on one end and 1/8 inch stereo headphone plug on the other end, but usually the ones at radio shack have male RCAs and then you'd need male to male RCA couplers. The cost can get out of hand quickly, unless you buy online at monoprice or similar. Something like this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Thanks! I didn't see this post at the time, but I did stop by Radio Shack and they had the 1st one in stock. I have it plugged into my Sceptre now... just waiting to put the wii back in there, once I replace it with a 360 or ps3. Thanks again!
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post #3696 of 3746 Old 12-24-2007, 12:02 PM
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I picked up one from NewEgg and got it installed today.

It went above the fireplace in the kitchen. I tore out to the studs on that wall and ran 10 RG6QS, 3 CAT-5, 1 HDMI, and power. Two of the RG-6 are terminated with F connectors, 7 are terminated with RCA connectors for component and audio, and 1 is a spare. The CAT-5 are for when I add IR, USB, etc. These went into 6 junction boxes that are recessed into the wall. For a mount, I made a pair of french cleats out of 3/4" baltic birch ply so that the monitor is only 3/4" out from the wall. That is just enough room for the cables to come out of the recess and down to the monitor.

My wife is happy.
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post #3697 of 3746 Old 01-09-2008, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teran View Post

I picked up one from NewEgg and got it installed today.

It went above the fireplace in the kitchen. I tore out to the studs on that wall and ran 10 RG6QS, 3 CAT-5, 1 HDMI, and power. Two of the RG-6 are terminated with F connectors, 7 are terminated with RCA connectors for component and audio, and 1 is a spare. The CAT-5 are for when I add IR, USB, etc. These went into 6 junction boxes that are recessed into the wall. For a mount, I made a pair of french cleats out of 3/4" baltic birch ply so that the monitor is only 3/4" out from the wall. That is just enough room for the cables to come out of the recess and down to the monitor.

My wife is happy.

10 Coax and 3 CAT 5? Geez louise, that's a a great deal of cables. Why on earth so much for one tv with two tuners and what does the CAT5 have to do with IR and USB. IR is line of site wireless, and USB... will you be running a USB signal on CAT5?? I've never heard of such a thing but is the only use I can surmise at this point.

oops, you said the coax is for component, composite, etc. So you're able to run component video signal within coax line. I imagine that'd have to terminate twice so whatever receiving end would also have compeonent available to the corresponding devices output. Seems more work than worth rather than just running straight component video, etc. Can that support 1080p? Inquiring minds want to know.
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post #3698 of 3746 Old 01-09-2008, 06:41 AM
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One CAT-5 is used for an IR repeater. All electronic components are in the equipment closet on another floor of the house.

IR Receiver

The second CAT-5 is used for a USB repeater/hub. I have a wireless keyboard/mouse plugged into this. The USB hub and keyboard/mouse receiver is mounted behind the monitor.

USB Repeater
Wireless keyboard w/mousepad

The coax lines that are used for component video and audio are terminated with RCA jacks.

This install is over a fireplace. Once I closed up the wall there was no going back. It turned out to be a clean install. The only things you see are the monitor over the fireplace and a small keyboard w/trackpad and a remote on the table. Capabilities include FM radio, access to the networked movie library and MP3 collection, full PC desktop, OTA HD, Dish HD-PVR (622), and access to all other audio/video components in the home theater equipment stack (DVD, VCR, etc).

Currently, I only use 1080P over a DVI-to-HDMI connection from a Kubuntu based PC, which is also in the equipment closet. I did test 1080P on the component runs, though, and it is fine.
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post #3699 of 3746 Old 01-09-2008, 07:33 AM
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Here is a picture. Pardon the unfinished wall. I'll texture coat and paint when I am done with the rest of the kitchen.
LL
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post #3700 of 3746 Old 01-09-2008, 07:41 AM
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MrGST -- I had nearly the same problem with our Sceptre 37-Naga. It worked great for about 10 months, then one day it just went dark. Turning it on, the LED would light, the screen would show quickly with dark in the center, and then it would go dead again, but the LED would stay on. Ours was under warranty, so we sent it back to Sceptre. The box was absolutely destroyed in the process, and when the tv came back, it was in pieces.. the bezel was scuffed, the cover for the stand was broken, etc. Sceptre, to their credit did replace the stand, and we were able to live with the scuffs, but not real happy. We used the TV until December when the exact same thing happened again (probably another 6 months or so). There was no way I was going to send it in again, and Sceptre would not send me parts to replace it myself, siting "liability reasons", so I took the set back to Costco and got my money back, having purchased it at a time they had unlimited returns.

We were quite happy with the set, and had we not had the shipping problem/power supply snaffu, it would still be our set today. It had a good picture and was easy to operate. The ability to drive full 1920x1080 from the vga was a feature that few sets today have even.

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post #3701 of 3746 Old 01-11-2008, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teran View Post

Here is a picture. Pardon the unfinished wall. I'll texture coat and paint when I am done with the rest of the kitchen.

Interesting. This cable arrangement wouldn't be my 1st choice but if it works.... makes sense now that I re-read all your A/V equipment is in a different room. That's pretty novel. I go a much simpler route whereby I serve my bedroom with a media extender and the game room gets the htpc, but this would be really neat for serving the home all with the same PC, even cooler if the PC could serve multiple concurrent x264 720p streams. Thanks for sharing. Would it be possible to see your termination box?
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post #3702 of 3746 Old 01-11-2008, 09:20 AM
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I'll post a pic of the box when I take the screen down to texture coat and paint.

It is basically a box made out of 1/2" mdf that has 3 upfacing and 3 downfacing junction boxes. The front opening is 15" wide X 4" high and recesses 3 1/2" deep from the front of the wall. When you look into it you have...

4 RCA Audio | Power | HDMI
that face down

2 RJ-45 | 3 RCA Component Video | 2 F-Connectors
that face up

The main goal was to have no external cables and treat it simply as a monitor with controller inputs (IR and USB) while providing for the ability to be able to replace it with any other monitor in the future.

What cabling alternatives do you have in mind?
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post #3703 of 3746 Old 01-11-2008, 11:55 AM
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[quote=Teran;12778717

What cabling alternatives do you have in mind?[/quote]

None, considering you've stated all your A/V equipment is in another room. I misread it the 1st time and wondered why someone would go through all that... now it's crystal, as running the lengths that you'd probably require would likely create other problems. Plus, I'm not a skilled craftsman such as yourself. For me, I'd just plug in an extender or HTPC in small form factor and stream media.

Are you connecting remote room PC via HDMI?
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post #3704 of 3746 Old 03-12-2008, 10:11 AM
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Hi. Bought the 37" from COSTCO in Dec 2005 for my Father-in-Law. In the last couple of weeks, it's developed a brown stain (really looks like the TV was set up on it's left edge and some coffee or pee was allowed to dry on the screen behind the glass - it almost appears to be a facial profile). It's very obvious in tan/brown/yellow background views.
Anybody else seen this?
BTW: I searched the thread for "BROWN STAIN", "COLOR STAIN". I don't know what to call it.
Thanks.

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post #3705 of 3746 Old 03-21-2008, 02:39 AM
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I am a new member of the Former Sceptre X37SV-Naga Owners Group. Hopefully this is a problem limited to the early models of the X37, as it seems to be somewhat common.

I bought mine in late March 2006, and I had absolutely no problems with it. The channel changing was a bit slow for my tastes for OTA HDTV, but it wasn't anything I couldn't get over. About 2 months ago, I started noticing a dark patch on the screen whenever my DVD player would power on and display the green switching screen. Monday morning I was watching some video files from my PC when I took a short break to take care of my 4 month old. When I came back, the TV was off. I didn't remember turning it off but thought nothing of it. I thought something of it when I tried to turn it on, and nothing happened. Ironically, I noted the dark patch's presence to my wife that very morning.

I verified that it wasn't a problem with the power -- it's plugged into a UPS, the outlets are good, the AC cable is good, and the UPS is good. No matter what I did, the Standby LED would not come on. I finally called Sceptre, and they said it sounded like the power supply was dead. I asked if it was user-replaceable, and they said it was not. To their credit, they told me that since I bought it from Costco, I should take it back to them for a refund, because it was purchased before they changed their return policy.

Today, I took the TV back to Costco and got a full refund -- no questions asked.

For you people who are experiencing odd color patches on your screens (most evident when the screen is a solid color like blue or green) that were not there previously, you may want to prepare yourself mentally for the worst case scenario.

Unfortunately, this experience has turned me off of Sceptre as a brand for HDTVs. I did a search on the 46" Sceptre that Costco now offers, and I found reports of spontaneously dead TVs within months of purchase. It sounds like Sceptre's quality is spiraling downward. Since Costco's return policy is now only 90 days for TVs, I will not be buying another Sceptre. Instead I will be looking for a major name brand unit to replace it.

On the bright side, I'll be able to upgrade significantly since I paid ~$1,800 shipped two years ago, and prices have come down significantly during that time. I'm thinking I'll check out the Sharp Aquos line.
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post #3706 of 3746 Old 03-22-2008, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaZone23 View Post

I am a new member of the Former Sceptre X37SV-Naga Owners Group. Hopefully this is a problem limited to the early models of the X37, as it seems to be somewhat common.

I bought mine in late March 2006, and I had absolutely no problems with it. The channel changing was a bit slow for my tastes for OTA HDTV, but it wasn't anything I couldn't get over. About 2 months ago, I started noticing a dark patch on the screen whenever my DVD player would power on and display the green switching screen. Monday morning I was watching some video files from my PC when I took a short break to take care of my 4 month old. When I came back, the TV was off. I didn't remember turning it off but thought nothing of it. I thought something of it when I tried to turn it on, and nothing happened. Ironically, I noted the dark patch's presence to my wife that very morning.

I verified that it wasn't a problem with the power -- it's plugged into a UPS, the outlets are good, the AC cable is good, and the UPS is good. No matter what I did, the Standby LED would not come on. I finally called Sceptre, and they said it sounded like the power supply was dead. I asked if it was user-replaceable, and they said it was not. To their credit, they told me that since I bought it from Costco, I should take it back to them for a refund, because it was purchased before they changed their return policy.

Today, I took the TV back to Costco and got a full refund -- no questions asked.

For you people who are experiencing odd color patches on your screens (most evident when the screen is a solid color like blue or green) that were not there previously, you may want to prepare yourself mentally for the worst case scenario.

Unfortunately, this experience has turned me off of Sceptre as a brand for HDTVs. I did a search on the 46" Sceptre that Costco now offers, and I found reports of spontaneously dead TVs within months of purchase. It sounds like Sceptre's quality is spiraling downward. Since Costco's return policy is now only 90 days for TVs, I will not be buying another Sceptre. Instead I will be looking for a major name brand unit to replace it.

On the bright side, I'll be able to upgrade significantly since I paid ~$1,800 shipped two years ago, and prices have come down significantly during that time. I'm thinking I'll check out the Sharp Aquos line.

I'm sorry to hear of your negative experience with Sceptre. I still have an x37 alive and kicking in my bedroom... and had one prior to that; nothing but positive experiences over here.

I word to the wise though... you'll find problems (sometime major) just as much with the higher tiers as you will a brand like Sceptre.

-A Sharp Aquos Owner
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post #3707 of 3746 Old 03-25-2008, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakujin View Post

I'm sorry to hear of your negative experience with Sceptre. I still have an x37 alive and kicking in my bedroom... and had one prior to that; nothing but positive experiences over here.

I word to the wise though... you'll find problems (sometime major) just as much with the higher tiers as you will a brand like Sceptre.

-A Sharp Aquos Owner

Yes, I do realize that everyone may have issues, but it's probably easier to get a major brand serviced. I had a 27" Sony TV that died less than a year after I bought it, but fortunately, it was still under warranty at the time. It ultimately only lasted about 4 years total, but it didn't hurt as much since I got it for under $400 on sale. Kinda turned me off of Sony, too.

Don't get me wrong, I loved the X37 up until the point it died. If it weren't for the fact that my initial research on the 42" and 46" Sceptres currently available from Costco indicated that they had similar issues, I'd probably get another. Unfortunately, it seems that the old adage of you get what you pay for plays out here. As much as flat panel TVs cost, my expectations go up accordingly, especially since LCD technology is rather mature at this point, and something as basic as the power supply really shouldn't be an issue in my book. Then again, that may be the quality difference between a brand that has 42" and 46" units available for $999 versus a brand whose 42" and 46" units are $2000 and up.

I'm willing to give any manufacturer a chance, and this time it just didn't really pan out for the long term. No harm, no fowl. To Sceptre's credit, their tech support guy didn't try to sell me some **** and bull story. He simply said that the power supply probably needs to be replaced, which any TV repair shop "should be able to do". In my line of work, "should" rarely ever lives up to its name. He also added that since I bought it at Costco before the refund policy changed, I should be able to get a full refund, and he encouraged me to do so. THAT is customer service. I just wish the TV was just as forgiving. I suppose it wouldn't be such a big deal if it weren't for the fact that the "simple" act of getting a large screen TV to/from a repair shop is such a pain in the rear, requiring two people since my arms aren't long enough to lift the fully boxed TV by myself.

I'm glad your Sceptre is still working great -- if anything, I'm jealous. But I'm taking this opportunity to upgrade and found a great deal on a Philips 47" with Ambilight and 120Hz refresh from Sam's Club. It's MSRP is something like $2,300, and they have it for $1,494 including shipping, which puts it at around $1600 after tax. It's the model 47PFL9732D/37 if you're curious. I hope this works out for a much longer period.
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post #3708 of 3746 Old 03-29-2008, 10:56 PM
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I've had this Sceptre X37SV for 2 years now and just now experienced a failure. Though I'd heard of reports that early sets (pre-QAM) models had trouble with the HDMI connector flaking out, I didn't expect it to happen to my later version, since it has the screw that supposedly stabilizes the HDMI connector. The TV is mounted to an articulating arm that allows the set to be pulled out of it's mounting niche for access to wiring behind the whole equipment shelf unit. Now, it took several months to complete the shelf unit with cabinets and I probably extended and retracted the the TV on it's articulating arm 50-100 times during the construction and setup process. Little did I realize the stress this was placing on the HDMI connector via the HDMI cable. It really didn't seem like much stress and I never gave a second thought to the HDMI connector. Until today, that is. I pulled the TV out to re-route some wires to the Wii and when I put it all back, I got a big surprise. No more HDMI! Wiggling the HDMI connector, I could get brief flashes, but no way could I get it to work as it had before. Since I've long since voided any semblance of warranty on this set, by adding spdif audio out, I decided to disassemble the set, to see what I could see.

Once the cover was removed from the input circuit board, it was clear that the HDMI connector was attached by the securing screw, to the bracket but the contacts of the connector were completely disconnected from the circuit board itself. I've seen this kind of failure before with surface mount connectors before. The spacing of the leads where they're supposed to be soldered to the circuit board is really close, but I managed to solder the connector back to the circuit board, reassembled everything and incredibly enough, it works perfectly now. In the process, I did manage to scan a picture of the circuit board, in case anyone is interested:



The circuit board is remarkably uninteresting. One thing that it does show, is the mystery connector that sits next to where the HDMI connector would've been. The mystery connector is jumpered by wires to another location on the circuit board. The wiring is nothing like USB or any other standard interface that I could think of. So, speculations that this connector was a USB interface for firmware upgrades, becomes less likely. I'm not saying that it isn't used for that, just that 7 wires all twisted together, would provide severely compromised signal integrity to any USB connection, which would only need 4 wires at best anyway.

P.J.
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post #3709 of 3746 Old 04-08-2008, 10:10 PM
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I've had my 37SV for a couple years and it's been working well. But, a couple days ago, I tried to turn it on and the status light changed from red (standby) to green (on) but the display didn't turn on at all.

I tried to turn it off (no response to any controls) and unplugging it for a while, but no help. Whenever I plug it in, the status light immediately goes to green but no picture is shown and there is no response to any controls.

Eventually, I took the whole thing apart (there are three boards -- HD tuner, main board, and power board) hoping to find a burned out fuse (one fuse on power board and it's fine) or a boards showing signs of a burned out component (everything is clean) or a loose cable (everything good) or a hidden hard-reset switch (there are two on the main board and one of them seems to reboot it but they didn't help).

I put it back together and I am still seeing the same behavior.

Called Sceptre -- they didn't know what the problem is but offered to check it out for $250 + $80 for shipping + $100 for me to ship there + $80 for a new shipping box from Sceptre = ~$510 with no guarantees. Or send me individual boards (if in stock, $285 for power board or $295 for main + $20 shipping) and definitely no guarantees that it would fix anything (and no returns). Sending it in doesn't make any sense and spending $315 on a board without being sure is a no-go.

Has anyone seem this problem?? Does anyone have any tips on troubleshooting this? Am I just SOL here?
LL
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LL
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LL
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post #3710 of 3746 Old 04-09-2008, 04:28 AM
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Could it be a problem with the backlight? Have you tried shining a flashlight on the screen to see if anything is visible?
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post #3711 of 3746 Old 04-09-2008, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acamelot View Post

I've had my 37SV for a couple years and it's been working well. But, a couple days ago, I tried to turn it on and the status light changed from red (standby) to green (on) but the display didn't turn on at all.

I tried to turn it off (no response to any controls) and unplugging it for a while, but no help. Whenever I plug it in, the status light immediately goes to green but no picture is shown and there is no response to any controls.

Eventually, I took the whole thing apart (there are three boards -- HD tuner, main board, and power board) hoping to find a burned out fuse (one fuse on power board and it's fine) or a boards showing signs of a burned out component (everything is clean) or a loose cable (everything good) or a hidden hard-reset switch (there are two on the main board and one of them seems to reboot it but they didn't help).

I put it back together and I am still seeing the same behavior.

Called Sceptre -- they didn't know what the problem is but offered to check it out for $250 + $80 for shipping + $100 for me to ship there + $80 for a new shipping box from Sceptre = ~$510 with no guarantees. Or send me individual boards (if in stock, $285 for power board or $295 for main + $20 shipping) and definitely no guarantees that it would fix anything (and no returns). Sending it in doesn't make any sense and spending $315 on a board without being sure is a no-go.

Has anyone seem this problem?? Does anyone have any tips on troubleshooting this? Am I just SOL here?

If you've got a scope or at least a voltmeter, you can do some basic troubleshooting. With a voltmeter, you can check the pwr supply where it comes into the main board. After that, there are at least a couple of regulators on the main board. One is near the corner of the big chip with the "M" logo on it. The other, is near the middle mounting screw nearest the pwr supply board. I don't have my set taken apart right now, so I can't tell you exactly what voltage you should be seeing there, but measure all 3 terminals of both regulators and report back. There are also a number of smaller regulators strewn around the pcb. Do the same for those. You can recognize them as the devices with a little metal tab soldered to the board, in addition to 3 regular leads. If all that looks ok, then I'd start in poking around with a scope, to see what there is to see. The wide connector on the main board on the pwr supply side, goes to the lcd panel and carries the digital data for the panel. Pins on that connector should be chattering away continuously, if the main board is actually working. If you don't see anything on the pins of that connector, then the problem is on the main board. The chip with the big "M" on it, is the video processor chip and the big chip with the heatsink on it, is the main CPU. I'd poke around and see if there is any activity on the circuitry surrounding the main CPU. If yes, then move on to the video processor.

I don't have any plans to take my set apart any time soon, but if you really need to know what voltage or what signals should be present at a given point, I could probably help out by measuring my set. I might not be able to do it until the weekend though.

P.J.
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post #3712 of 3746 Old 04-09-2008, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Valence01 View Post

If you've got a scope or at least a voltmeter, you can do some basic troubleshooting. With a voltmeter, you can check the pwr supply where it comes into the main board. After that, there are at least a couple of regulators on the main board. One is near the corner of the big chip with the "M" logo on it. The other, is near the middle mounting screw nearest the pwr supply board. I don't have my set taken apart right now, so I can't tell you exactly what voltage you should be seeing there, but measure all 3 terminals of both regulators and report back. There are also a number of smaller regulators strewn around the pcb. Do the same for those. You can recognize them as the devices with a little metal tab soldered to the board, in addition to 3 regular leads. If all that looks ok, then I'd start in poking around with a scope, to see what there is to see. The wide connector on the main board on the pwr supply side, goes to the lcd panel and carries the digital data for the panel. Pins on that connector should be chattering away continuously, if the main board is actually working. If you don't see anything on the pins of that connector, then the problem is on the main board. The chip with the big "M" on it, is the video processor chip and the big chip with the heatsink on it, is the main CPU. I'd poke around and see if there is any activity on the circuitry surrounding the main CPU. If yes, then move on to the video processor.

I don't have any plans to take my set apart any time soon, but if you really need to know what voltage or what signals should be present at a given point, I could probably help out by measuring my set. I might not be able to do it until the weekend though.

P.J.

I tried measuring the two larger regulators and I am getting somewhere between .5-1V there. Mostly ~.5V. I don't know what it should be (~5V?), but that seems low. As best as I can tell, the power supply is putting out ~5V to the board. I couldn't quite find the right places to check, but doing a sampling of different pairs coming in showed about 5V on some of them. Does any of this make any sense or help to narrow it down at all?

Also, I tried shining a light onto the display and there is nothing going on there (compared to a laptop with a turned off backlight).
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post #3713 of 3746 Old 04-10-2008, 06:58 PM
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I tried measuring the two larger regulators and I am getting somewhere between .5-1V there. Mostly ~.5V. I don't know what it should be (~5V?), but that seems low. As best as I can tell, the power supply is putting out ~5V to the board. I couldn't quite find the right places to check, but doing a sampling of different pairs coming in showed about 5V on some of them. Does any of this make any sense or help to narrow it down at all?

Also, I tried shining a light onto the display and there is nothing going on there (compared to a laptop with a turned off backlight).

The voltages on the big regulators seem a bit low, but give me a day or so to get some time to make measurements on my set and I'll let you know for sure, what should be there. BTW, pulling the power cord and reinstalling it, the status led goes green and nothing happens for perhaps 5 seconds and then the screen comes on. I doubt the problem with your set, is the just the backlight since you'd still get audio in that case. Also, there is an AV output that is a standard def version of whatever is showing on the main screen. The AV output is on the back panel along with all the other outputs. I suppose it might shed some light on what's wrong, if you could hook up the AV out line to another monitor and see if that much works.

P.J.
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post #3714 of 3746 Old 04-12-2008, 08:40 PM
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The voltages on the big regulators seem a bit low, but give me a day or so to get some time to make measurements on my set and I'll let you know for sure, what should be there. BTW, pulling the power cord and reinstalling it, the status led goes green and nothing happens for perhaps 5 seconds and then the screen comes on. I doubt the problem with your set, is the just the backlight since you'd still get audio in that case. Also, there is an AV output that is a standard def version of whatever is showing on the main screen. The AV output is on the back panel along with all the other outputs. I suppose it might shed some light on what's wrong, if you could hook up the AV out line to another monitor and see if that much works.

P.J.

Thanks a lot for your help!!
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post #3715 of 3746 Old 04-13-2008, 09:04 PM
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Thanks a lot for your help!!

Ok, here's some detailed voltages. Lets start with J18, the power connector on edge of the board next to the electrolytic capacitor farm:

J18 starting at the end closest to the HD tuner board.

Brn 0V Blk +5V
nc-------nc
Gry 0V Wht +15V
nc-------nc
Blu 0V Prpl +12V
Yel +12v Grn +12V
Red 0V Orn 0V
Brn +5V nc
nc-------Blk 0V
Gry +5V Wht +5V
Blu +5V Blk +5V
Yel 0V Grn 0V
Red 0V Orn 0V
Blk +3.3V Brn 0V

Now, on to the regulators. There are a lot of them. The order of pins is looking at the regulator with the tab at the top and the 2 or 3 leads at the bottom, left pin, tab, right pin. If there are 3 pins, the middle pin is same as tab and so, the callout is the same left, tab, right.

U27
0V, 3.3V, 5V


U26
0V, 3.3V, 5V


U25
2V, 3.3V, 5V

U5
0.5V, 2V, 3.3V

U4
1.8V, 2.2V, 3V

U18
0.4V, 2V, 3.3V

U35
12V, 0V, 5V

U7
1.8V, 2.5V, 5V

U31
2V, 3.3V, 5V

If you've already ruled out, the backlight by checking the AV out and sound, then I really think it has to be either the power supply board, or the main board. The HD tuner board isn't even needed. First thing obviously, is the J18 power supply stuff. If the +5V, +12V, +15V aren't right, then I'd suspect the power supply board. If those are ok, then start checking the regulators, one by one until you find one that isn't showing the same voltage as what I measured.

I hope this helps.

P.J.
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post #3716 of 3746 Old 05-28-2008, 04:06 PM
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Hey guys, never posted in this thread before. I've had my X37SV since Sept 06, and it's been working fine, only a minor annoyance of 1 dead pixel (although a little different than a normal dead pixel, as it seems to take the average red value of the entire column and keep the correct green an blue values) Anyway, everything's been working fine for the entire time I've had it until just few days ago. For the most part it still works fine, but what seems to happen is shortly after I first turn it on (after it's been off for a while) the screen freezes and shows vertical streaks of colors across the screen. When I then power cycle it is fine again until I turn it back off.

Only thing I could think of is maybe something is warming up when the TV is first turned on, and doesn't like that for some reason, but once it's warmed up the TV will turn on just fine or something like that.

Is my TV dying? Is this a sign of something worse to come? Is there an easy fix? Any info would help thanks.

I'll try to upload pix the next time it happens.
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post #3717 of 3746 Old 06-06-2008, 06:58 AM
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Hey guys, never posted in this thread before. I've had my X37SV since Sept 06, and it's been working fine, only a minor annoyance of 1 dead pixel (although a little different than a normal dead pixel, as it seems to take the average red value of the entire column and keep the correct green an blue values) Anyway, everything's been working fine for the entire time I've had it until just few days ago. For the most part it still works fine, but what seems to happen is shortly after I first turn it on (after it's been off for a while) the screen freezes and shows vertical streaks of colors across the screen. When I then power cycle it is fine again until I turn it back off.

Only thing I could think of is maybe something is warming up when the TV is first turned on, and doesn't like that for some reason, but once it's warmed up the TV will turn on just fine or something like that.

Is my TV dying? Is this a sign of something worse to come? Is there an easy fix? Any info would help thanks.

I'll try to upload pix the next time it happens.

Sounds like an issue on the main board. The video processing chip, the one with the big "M" on it, is responsible for reading data from the dram frame buffer and formatting and sending it to the LCD panel itself. There is a long white connector above the video processor that connects to the LCD panel. I suppose if the connector was loose, that might make it susceptible to temperature changes. The main board isn't all that thermally challenged, unlike the ATSC tuner board. So, I wouldn't expect a thermal chip issue. When the picture freezes, does sound continue? Does this happen on all sources, or just one or the other of the tuners?

P.J.
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post #3718 of 3746 Old 06-06-2008, 09:50 AM
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Did Costco require a purchase invoice when you returned the Sceptre Naga 37" for refund?I purchased mine online in April,2006 at Costco.I have moved recently and can't find my invoice.Wonder if this will be a problem because I having issues with mine.
Thanks
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post #3719 of 3746 Old 06-06-2008, 02:36 PM
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Sounds like an issue on the main board. The video processing chip, the one with the big "M" on it, is responsible for reading data from the dram frame buffer and formatting and sending it to the LCD panel itself. There is a long white connector above the video processor that connects to the LCD panel. I suppose if the connector was loose, that might make it susceptible to temperature changes. The main board isn't all that thermally challenged, unlike the ATSC tuner board. So, I wouldn't expect a thermal chip issue. When the picture freezes, does sound continue? Does this happen on all sources, or just one or the other of the tuners?

P.J.

Hmm, not sure about the sound (I use a 7.1 hdmi audio reciever) I do hear a click though when it happens. Also not sure about the sources, I'll see if any of the source buttons do anything.

Also my remote has stopped working. It's not the batteries, as I changed them a few times with no effect. I doubt this is related, but it does limit what I can do quite a bit (especially PiP which I use a lot)
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post #3720 of 3746 Old 06-09-2008, 07:05 AM
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Hmm, not sure about the sound (I use a 7.1 hdmi audio reciever) I do hear a click though when it happens. Also not sure about the sources, I'll see if any of the source buttons do anything.

Also my remote has stopped working. It's not the batteries, as I changed them a few times with no effect. I doubt this is related, but it does limit what I can do quite a bit (especially PiP which I use a lot)

I don't know about the remote, but if you're using HDMI for video exclusively, you may be seeing the beginnings of a problem with the HDMI connector. I and others have had issues with leads on the HDMI connector coming loose from the circuit board to which it is mounted. If you have a keen eye and can solder, you can repair it yourself, otherwise you'd need to replace the main circuit board for a few hundred dollars. In either case, you'd have to disassemble the set to some extent. If the problem is with the HDMI connector, other inputs should still work normally.

P.J.
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