The OFFICIAL 2006 Toshiba REGZA LCD HDTV Thread... - Page 64 - AVS Forum
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post #1891 of 1908 Old 03-07-2010, 12:31 PM
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Couldn't take it any longer and bought a new 46" Samsung LED/LCD to replace the Toshiba piece of crap. Anyone want to buy a 42" LCD wih vertical lines :-)
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post #1892 of 1908 Old 03-08-2010, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skully View Post

Thanks for the advice, quattroG. Based on your input, I'm going to try and obtain a service guide to see if it's possible to separate the LCD from the backlighting assembly.. or impossible if it's one piece. If anyone else out there has access to the service manual or an exploded view of the assembly, that would be much appreciated.

Skully, have you had any luck with investigating repairing the backlighting?
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post #1893 of 1908 Old 03-11-2010, 08:48 PM
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A couple of years ago, I described problems with my Toshiba 42LX196 & use with a CableCard. Freezing of the system, with multiple reboots were a recurring problem. I recently moved, resulting in a change from Comcast to Cox as provider, and I'm trying to see if a firmware change may improve my situation.

If anyone can provide the most current firmware, pls. let me know.

Thnx. Mike H.
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post #1894 of 1908 Old 03-14-2010, 12:17 PM
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Hello
Today I hooped up my macbook pro to my Toshiba 42LZ196 via a dvi/hdmi cable. The computer automatically connected at 1080p, and it looked great. I remember reading in the manual never hook up a computer to the tv except using the vga input. Is the really true? Also I saw another resolution setting called 1600x900 @60hz which also looked good when I check the overscan box. Which would be better?
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post #1895 of 1908 Old 03-14-2010, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimme View Post

Hello
Today I hooped up my macbook pro to my Toshiba 42LZ196 via a dvi/hdmi cable. The computer automatically connected at 1080p, and it looked great. I remember reading in the manual never hook up a computer to the tv except using the vga input. Is the really true? Also I saw another resolution setting called 1600x900 @60hz which also looked good when I check the overscan box. Which would be better?

HDMI or DVI is greatly preferred over VGA because it is digital vs. analog. In fact my 46" Toshiba has extremely limited display resolutions via VGA. It only gets all the resolutions via HDMI/DVI.

As always with LCD, the native resolution is going to be best. So pick 1080P. Lower resolutions, like 720P can look good too.
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post #1896 of 1908 Old 03-14-2010, 01:42 PM
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I read that warning in the manual but ignored it because the VGA input is so limited. I think they just put the warning in there because Toshiba doesn't want their customer support people to have to waste time helping clueless owners troubleshoot resolution problems that probably originate with their OS or graphics card.

Fortunately, the 196 series Toshibas handshake properly with OS X over HDMI, so any resolutions shown as being available will work safely. My 42HL196 has been hooked up to my mac mini via the HDMI input for years without any problems whatsoever.
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post #1897 of 1908 Old 03-15-2010, 01:29 PM
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With the recent postings on this thread, I thought I'd ask the following question.

I was one of many 196 owners that experienced the dreaded banding lines that showed up after some time on these sets. If you read back in this thread to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1735, you'll see the pictures I posted of the banding issue. Anyway, I miss those 196 sets. They have better features as far as cable card, and the audio was much better than what is on the latest sets. I wish I still had the set. But Toshiba decided to buy back the set instead of finding a solution to the problem. So I was just wondering how long you guys have owned your sets, and if you've had any problems with them. What was the manufacture date on your sets.

Thanks guys,

Glenn
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post #1898 of 1908 Old 03-16-2010, 08:57 AM
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I've had mine since late 2006, I think it was a July or August '06 manufacture date. My banding was always pretty mild, only really noticeable during pans across a solid color (common in sports programming, not so much elsewhere). I have a thin line in the center and a couple inches wide on the right side.

Everything else about the set has been flawless. Given that the majority of LCD sets from that era have had their share of problems, I've written off the bands up to a cost of being a semi-early adopter of the tech and don't really stress about them anymore. I was fortunately that mine weren't especially bad, though.
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post #1899 of 1908 Old 07-13-2010, 03:18 PM
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My 42hl196 finally started showing the banding or ghosting issue. With the screen constantly panning left and right, really looks bad on most video games, sports, and movies. But that's been discussed, not going to beat that dead horse.

Fortunately, I discovered I bought the extended warranty from Best Buy. I'm still covered until January 2011. I want to get all my ducks in a row before I call or visit Best Buy and try to get this fixed or replaced.

What do I need to know before I start this process?
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post #1900 of 1908 Old 07-14-2010, 07:37 PM
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When mine went bad I thought I was going to have the battle of the century with Best Buy. I was wrong. I had a new TV on my wall five days after my first contact about warranty replacement. I can't say you'll get the same results but this is what worked for me.

Contact Best Buy head office about warranty, not the store you bought from. I think I emailed them and they got back to me the next day. They gave me the name of the local company that did warranty service for them. If you can get the service company to agree that you should get a replacement set, you will have no problems. The guy I talked to didn't even come to see the set, he just asked me questions over the phone and said, yup, you need a replacement panel. I'll write up an estimate that's more expensive than buying a new set and BB will give you a new TV. Head office called back the next day and asked which store I wanted to deal with and a day later that store had all my info and was ready to work with me.

They gave me a credit for the lowest amount they had sold the set for, but I've read where some folks got full purchase price credit. Don't be afraid to politely push a little to get them to give you a better deal.

Be polite, it will get you farther and figure out what TV you would like to get as a replacement before you start to deal with the local store. That way you will have a goal in sight and a price range that you are willing to spend and can hopefully talk them in to giving you a credit in that amount. I wish I had pushed a little harder but at the and of it all I went from the bottom of the line 42" Toshiba (at the time) to the top of the line 46" Toshiba (at the time) for a little under $300.

Good Luck, keep us posted.

Capitalization is the difference between.. "I had to help my Uncle Jack off a horse" and I had to help my uncle jack off a horse.
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post #1901 of 1908 Old 08-21-2010, 07:01 AM
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I just wanted to check in on a post I made on the previous page. I wanted to take apart the TV and clean the inside panel for I do believe there's a seam where dust enters in between the backlighting and LCD panel.

Did I do this? No, I chickened out without a service manual. Although the black blurs have gotten worse, I try to ignore it and think about my next TV.
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post #1902 of 1908 Old 12-30-2010, 09:32 AM
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Anyone know what would be causing the dark smear/stain? Is there a simple fix? It is the 37" w/ DVD. I am thinking it would be cheaper to buy a replacement TV than to send it in to be fixed. Naturally does not show up in dark scenes. The stain is to the right of Jack Elam. Can anyone guess the movie?
LL
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post #1903 of 1908 Old 04-16-2011, 09:24 AM
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I have an issue with the 42HL196, is there any solution.

I recently purchased a Roku XD|S and I have it hooked up on HDMI2 and set to 720P. I've been watching a lot of foreign films and some of the subtitles are right at the bottom of the screen. When I go to the menu on the TV it is always on Natural and I have no option to select Native, Native is what I need the TV set to, but I have no option. Any suggestions on how to get the TV to Native mode?
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post #1904 of 1908 Old 04-16-2011, 11:38 AM
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I don't think that for a 720p signal, that Native (4x3) exists. It just Natural (16x9).

I know that LCD sets like simulate a CRT's overscanning, which might be why some of your CC text gets cut off. My newer Sony has an option they call "full pixal" which stops any such overscanning.
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post #1905 of 1908 Old 04-18-2011, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltA View Post

I don't think that for a 720p signal, that Native (4x3) exists. It just Natural (16x9).

I know that LCD sets like simulate a CRT's overscanning, which might be why some of your CC text gets cut off. My newer Sony has an option they call "full pixal" which stops any such overscanning.

I think you're right, after I posted I started thinking native would be the 1920x1080. I think Netflix is really the biggest part of the problem, they shouldn't be putting captions that close to the edge. I played some of the problem videos on the PC and there was actually some clipping of the bottom line of the captions, so any overscan would be just that much worse.
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post #1906 of 1908 Old 05-30-2012, 10:42 AM
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*sigh* I had been relatively happy with my 42HL196 for years and years but last night it stopped turning on, 3 blink error code that seems to be incredibly common after a google search.

It's being repaired right now since it's relatively cheap to fix it apparently but I hate throwing money at it because the TV has developed a weird Image Retention problem, which I didn't even know LCDs could do.

Anybody else seen the image retain after you put something on pause for a bit? Any fix?
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post #1907 of 1908 Old 05-31-2012, 07:36 AM
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The image quality on my set has degraded substantially. It's very patchy or cloudy. Images do seem to burn in very quickly now. Sometimes the set won't turn on and has to be unplugged, or I have to hold the power button for 10 seconds. Fortunately, I have not seen the 3-blink problem (and didn't know about it till your post, Hardtarget), and hope it's not pending.
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post #1908 of 1908 Old 06-01-2012, 09:24 AM
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No matter how much I am tempted I am NOT going to post that my Regza (HL series) continues to perform as well today as it did when I purchased it in 11/06. I will NOT!!!

(Hopefully that satisfies the hex beast.)
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