OFFICIAL Samsung LN-S4095/4695/4096/4696 Owners Thread - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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post #1081 of 4616 Old 01-24-2007, 01:02 PM
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New developments: As half-expected, plugging everything into the monster surge protector yielded no results. However, I stubbornly started experimenting with the component cables hooked up to the back of the TV, and found a rather interesting combination; I left the picture cables (red, blue, green) hooked up, but removed the sound cables (red and white). I took a good look at my Wii picture and....I think they're gone. The picture seems to be completely free of the wavy lines.

So could it be possible that the problem is a sound issue that's translating into video noise? I'm hoping this new information might give some of a you a clue. And yes, the simplest answer would be to hook up the sound cables to my home theater, which wouldn't be the worst sacrifice I'd have to make, but I'd still like a possible solution for keeping the sound on the TV (my parents would bitch every day if I had everything hooked up through the booming home theater).
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post #1082 of 4616 Old 01-24-2007, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLDIER View Post

(my parents would bitch every day if I had everything hooked up through the booming home theater).

It has a volume control, right?
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post #1083 of 4616 Old 01-24-2007, 04:02 PM
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Even though it does, I wouldn't want to use the home theater for every single game, every single time either. Also, the audio cables can't reach far enough to my home theater, since there's no optical output (thanks, nintendo). I would need an extension cord for the sound cables, which I'm sure exists.

But I want to try and figure out how to plug in the audio cables to the TV without there being interference. Is there some sort of audio cable adaptor that can shield the interference or something?
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post #1084 of 4616 Old 01-24-2007, 11:43 PM
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Think I found what I need to fix this.

http://www.impactacoustics.com/produ...1009&sku=41147

That diagonal thing they mention sounds exactly what I have. But first I need to buy this in a store and try it, in case it doesn't work. What's more likely to carry these things? Best Buy, Circuit City, Radioshack (the one near me doesn't seem to have stuff like this)?

Think there's anyway I could get Samsung to pay for this when that technician comes over?
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post #1085 of 4616 Old 01-25-2007, 07:07 AM
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Component (video) connections are analog in nature even when the signal starts out as digital. As such, they CAN then be subject to interference along that cable. OTOH, HDMI is all digital, so there is no need to consider that some other wire of piece of equipment is degrading the signal it carries.

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post #1086 of 4616 Old 01-25-2007, 08:14 PM
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I found another solution besides hooking the audio cables to my receiver. I tried out the Psyclone Source Selector, hooked up the PS2 and Wii to it, and connected it directly to the TV with the component cables included with the Motorola HD Receiver. Noise is gone, everything is nice and crisp.

Only problem is that it's a more expensive solution ($99) than the isolator ($67 in one site), but neither BB or CC sell the isolator. Since I need a source selector anyway, I was wondering if you knew a cheaper source selector that delivers the same kind of "electronic signal precision circuitry" as this one.
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post #1087 of 4616 Old 01-25-2007, 10:36 PM
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Hi there,

I just purchased the 4695d and noticed the same thing. I returned the tv and got a new replacement but the same things occurs. Will place a call into Samsung. Were you able to rectify the vertical line problem?
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post #1088 of 4616 Old 01-26-2007, 12:32 PM
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I am purchasing a 4095 from a (yet undecided) online retailer, and I intend to wall mount this work of art. I don't want an articulating mount, a fixed or tilting mount will do. I have two questions:

1. Which type of mount fits the 4095? The online manual says that it is VESA compatible with the 200mm x 200mm plate. These plates are the square plates that have a smaller surface area when attaching to the wall and usually attach to just one stud. These smaller mounts are typically for smaller sized TVs. The larger mounts have horizontal bars attached to two studs on the wall, and vertical bars attached to the television. Does the 4095 accept these types of mounts?

2. How far do the wires protrude from the back of the set? If I wanted to get a low profile mount, will the wires prevent me from having the TV set at < 1" from the wall?
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post #1089 of 4616 Old 01-26-2007, 01:36 PM
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my 4695D's input area is recessed, and should allow for you to get right up against anything, with enough room to run wires vertically, of course.

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post #1090 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mkm View Post

Curious if anyone is experiencing any of the following video issues related to 1080i settings with the Samsung LN-S4695D 1080p set.

First, my components are as follows:
- Samsung LN-S4695D
- Motorola DCT 6416 III STB
- Toshiba SD-K860SU upconverting DVD player

Second, my current connections are as follows:
- Component cable from STB to TV
- HDMI from DVD player to TV

First issue: Watching cable HD broadcasts in 1080i (DCT 6416 III STB setting) causes "stuttering" of video display. STB set at 720p does not experience this. This is most noticeable when watching fast moving sports. Component cable connection STB to TV.

Second issue: Watching a DVD with Toshiba upconverting DVD player set on 1080i causes purple screen flicker. Set on 720p it works fine. HDMI connection DVD player to TV.

Third issue: Initally had Motorola DCT 6416 III STB connected to TV using HDMI cable. Once all correct STB settings were made, with 1080i selected as output format, everything worked fine until TV power was turned off, keeping STB power on. Found that once TV power was turned back on, STB output video format was set back to default (480i). Therefore each time you wanted to watch TV, you had to reset STB video setting to desired format (1080i in my case). Did not experience this problem using Component cable, only HDMI cable.

The DVD player (Non HD) thread in this forum talks to the purple flicker issue #2 above, suggesting it may be Samsung TV firmware related, but this only seems to occur with certain upconverting DVD player brands, including Samsung themselves (HD 860 model but not the 960). Go figure!

Would be interested to know if anyone has experienced similar issues and has dicovered any solutions.

I have been successful at achieving resolution of issues described.

1) The purple flicker 1080i upconverting DVD player, using HDMI cable connection issue #2, was resolved with Samsung LN-S4695D HDTV firmware upgrade from original version 1012 to 1021. Called Samsung and they had a sub-contractor come to the house with USB thumb drive to upgrade the TV.

2) Motorola DCT 6416 III connected to TV with HDMI (issue #3) loses video format settings when TV power is cycled off/on. Motorola says that firmware version 16.20 should fix this. I currently have version 12.35. Cox is coming today to troubleshoot.

3) Cox Technician came and replaced Motorola DCT 6416 III with new one. This newer cable box had the same firmware version 12.35 as my original however, Boot Code in new box was 05.10 as compared to original box version 05.08. This fixed issue #3 where box video settings were being reset back to defaults when TV power was cycled off/on (using HDMI cable connection box to TV). This apparently was not a well known or widespead issue according to Cox. This was the first time they had experienced this problem. Cox Tech recommended keeping power on to cable box all the time to ensure that any future updates would be received automatically, such as firmware, etc.

4) Have not been experiencing "stuttering" issue #1 above. I had reset cable box back to 480i then back to 1080i (a fix described in a different thread) and this seemed to fix this problem.
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post #1091 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 06:03 AM
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Hey guys i just got my 4095 and have been playing with the settings (brightness, contrast, power saving ect...) However, i still see some "clouding" in the corners im sure you have herd of this issue it is a big problem in the sony xbr's(thats why i didnt buy it). I was wourndering if any one else had this problem or if you can offer a posiable solution? Thanks
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post #1092 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3tr01d View Post

Hey guys i just got my 4095 and have been playing with the settings (brightness, contrast, power saving ect...) However, i still see some "clouding" in the corners im sure you have herd of this issue it is a big problem in the sony xbr's(thats why i didnt buy it). I was wourndering if any one else had this problem or if you can offer a posiable solution? Thanks

Yes some of us have this problem here too, including myself. I can make mine disappear by moving my contrast to 80 or slightly above, lowering my brightness to 30, and changing my energy saving mode to 'low'. I make these setting changes to all the different "modes" in the "Picture" section of the menu.

This fix may have worked for me because my clouding isn't very bad like others.
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post #1093 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 07:16 AM
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YEah thanks i tried it out but it is still slightly there. Im not sure if minimal clouding is normal because ive seen some extream cases in the XBRs mine is only slight in the corners. If anyone else can share their "cloud reducing" settings that would be great.
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post #1094 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3tr01d View Post

YEah thanks i tried it out but it is still slightly there. Im not sure if minimal clouding is normal because ive seen some extream cases in the XBRs mine is only slight in the corners. If anyone else can share their "cloud reducing" settings that would be great.

The ideal setting may be, try them:
brightness 34
contrast 100
energy savings to medium
DNIE off
DNR off
color 45
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post #1095 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 12:12 PM
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I've been reading this thread for a while and don't remember seeing anything on remotes.

Are there any particular issues using universal remotes (like the Logitech Harmony remotes)? For example, does the way that the source button works (where you have to cycle through the sources, which vary depending on what's connected) create problems?
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post #1096 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 01:10 PM
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There are discrete codes to take you to a specific input source, avoiding the cycling through them nonsense. Why Samsung didn't implement them on their own remote, I'll never know. But the Logitech Harmony does use them. I've programmed them into my own Phillips Pronto remote as well.

You can find them listed at www.remotecentral.com.
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post #1097 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apollo1813 View Post

Any thoughts on the 4095 and VERTICAL viewing angle? I am considering this TV for my living room which has a TV box above my fireplace. The TV will be approx 8 ft distance from the seating area, and 3 ft above the viewing/seated position.

This should be well within the ~176 degree spec but wanted some real-world input.

Personaly, I don't find the viewing angle that great for this TV (but apparently its much better than others). But at 8 feet away 3 feet about eye level should be fine. But if you want to be sure you have to check it out at a store and lie on the floor I guess.

As I walk up to the TV the vertical angle does start to degrade the picture but not until you are 4 feet or less from the TV. I am pretty sure at 8 feet it will look good. I prefer having a TV at eye level though and I think that is the best setup.
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post #1098 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzy_ View Post

I've been reading this thread for a while and don't remember seeing anything on remotes.

Are there any particular issues using universal remotes (like the Logitech Harmony remotes)? For example, does the way that the source button works (where you have to cycle through the sources, which vary depending on what's connected) create problems?

I use a harmony and it works fine with the set. The one main negative has to be that the TV has no direct access to Bright/Contrast controls using a remote. You have to go to menu, picture, mode, ... Whoever left out direct picture/contrast controls is brain dead. I has a Sony where Harmony published the codes that included picture/contrast direct, I can only hope that this will happen for the Samsung but so far, no luck.

The other issue (there is a fix for this one ) is that the Harmony default power-up time for this TV is 10 seconds. From a cold start this is too short. If you just bump it up to 12 or 14 it works much better. You have to know how the Harmony and advanced remotes works but the power up time must be set right.

The Source buttons are direct for most of the inputs, so that is not an issue. The only one that cycles is the HDMI2 port. To get around this Harmony has set a macro fo the HDMI2 port that using 2 commands 1-HDMI and 2-Input Next. This works nearly every time.

So overall, there are no major issues other than what the TV lacks in direct access to contrast and brightness (picture).
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post #1099 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLDIER View Post

Someone please help me. Those signal noise lines I mentioned before with my PS2 are now happening with the Wii. I purchased some component cables today and tried them on the TV, and the signal noise is showing. I unplugged everything else from the TV, but it's still there. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? Could it have something to do with the TV itself, or is it an electrical problem?

I have slight moving gray noticeable only if the brightness is very high and the screen is all black or mostly dark. It seems to me like its interference too. I did not even notice it at all until I hooked up the Wii with component cables. I don't see it at all with my other inputs so I suspected the Wii or the Wii component cable which was not the Nintendo brand cable but an import.

Since then, I also noticed it with the PS2 but only very slightly. I unplugged everything from my system and I have the PS2 going through the TV but its a digital connection so I doubt that is related.

For me, its almost not noticeable and I also suspect it could be related to something someone else is running on that power line in my building. I have considered a power conditioner but the problem is so slight I figured it may not be worth it and it may not even be the problem.

The strange thing is, I notice it most with the Wii and the component hookup. With the composite hookup I don't think I ever saw it. Also, I don't think I have ever seen it on the TV input or the 360 at all. They all look very solid.

Very strange indeed.

Also, keep in mind a "Surge Protector" is not a line conditioner and even some line conditioners don't eliminate noise. I get the feeling its not the power but I am no expert.

I am defiantly going to try removing the Sound inputs from the Wii and see if that has an effect on the interference.

I will let you know if I find any relationship between the two. I admit the Wii is the only device I have going through analog on the TV so I guess its possible.

Also, if you get that 99$ video isolation transformer thing, let us know if it worked. 99$ is not drop in the hat but if it works it might be worth it.

After reading up on ground loop noise, I don't think that can be my issue because I have all my equipment hooked up to the same/single outlet.

Quote:
Video hum may be a problem in any system where video sources and display devices are connected to different A/C power sources with varying grounding potentials.

So I don't see how that statement could apply to my situation.

UPDATE: I just went to see if disconnecting the sound would make a difference but before I could test anything, I did not see any banding/interference. So for me it seems like its not always happening so I think its related to things not under my control. If I see it again, I will try it though.
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post #1100 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 05:46 PM
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I've got a 4695 and I was wondering about its ability to upconvert the typical standard DVD format. Honestly it looks pretty decent so I'm guessing it's doing some sort of upconversion already, but was wondering if I would benefit at all by getting the Samsung Hi-Def 1080p Up-Conversion DVD Player (DVD-HD960). Does anyone know if it would be significant upgrade worth the $150 or so? Thanks.
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post #1101 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ansarar View Post

I've got a 4695 and I was wondering about its ability to upconvert the typical standard DVD format. Honestly it looks pretty decent so I'm guessing it's doing some sort of upconversion already, but was wondering if I would benefit at all by getting the Samsung Hi-Def 1080p Up-Conversion DVD Player (DVD-HD960). Does anyone know if it would be significant upgrade worth the $150 or so? Thanks.

I have a 3 year old Sony progressive scan DVD player and the video quality is quite good while playing on my 4695D. I use component cables. I can wait till the prices on the up-conversion players go down in the future.
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post #1102 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post

There are discrete codes to take you to a specific input source, avoiding the cycling through them nonsense. Why Samsung didn't implement them on their own remote, I'll never know. But the Logitech Harmony does use them. I've programmed them into my own Phillips Pronto remote as well.

You can find them listed at www.remotecentral.com.

Thanks very much, and thanks to Padrino as well.
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post #1103 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ansarar View Post

I've got a 4695 and I was wondering about its ability to upconvert the typical standard DVD format. Honestly it looks pretty decent so I'm guessing it's doing some sort of upconversion already, but was wondering if I would benefit at all by getting the Samsung Hi-Def 1080p Up-Conversion DVD Player (DVD-HD960). Does anyone know if it would be significant upgrade worth the $150 or so? Thanks.

The short answer is no. The long answer is that it depends what you are upgraing from.

The TV displays everything in 1080. So when you give it a 480i or 480P the TV scales that to 1080.

The DVD players that "upscale" to 1080i are doing the same thing. Of course they may claim to do it better than your TV but from my experience only high end upscaling DVD players ($300+) will show a clear improvement of the simple scaling that the TV already does.

I bought a 170 Denon 1080 upscaling DVD and it looked exactly the same as my old 480P DVD. So I returned it.

That being said, if your old DVD player does not have component outputs you will see an improvement but the improvement will not be due to the 1080i upscaling, it will simply be due to using a better input method (component or HDMI will always look much better than composite).

So if you already have a decent DVD with component outputs you should save your money and wait for the HD format wars to settle down. If you have an older composite output DVD player you should upgrade and you will see a significant improvement.
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post #1104 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commish_ffl View Post

I am purchasing a 4095 from a (yet undecided) online retailer, and I intend to wall mount this work of art. I don't want an articulating mount, a fixed or tilting mount will do. I have two questions:

1. Which type of mount fits the 4095? The online manual says that it is VESA compatible with the 200mm x 200mm plate. These plates are the square plates that have a smaller surface area when attaching to the wall and usually attach to just one stud. These smaller mounts are typically for smaller sized TVs. The larger mounts have horizontal bars attached to two studs on the wall, and vertical bars attached to the television. Does the 4095 accept these types of mounts?

2. How far do the wires protrude from the back of the set? If I wanted to get a low profile mount, will the wires prevent me from having the TV set at < 1" from the wall?

I just bought mounts from monoprice.com for my 4095. I'll find out in the next few days if I made the right call. Here's some of the product info:

Product# 2852
Adjustable Tilting Wall Mount Bracket for LCD Plasma (Max 165Lbs, 30~63inch)
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post #1105 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padrino View Post

The short answer is no. The long answer is that it depends what you are upgraing from.

The TV displays everything in 1080. So when you give it a 480i or 480P the TV scales that to 1080.

The DVD players that "upscale" to 1080i are doing the same thing. Of course they may claim to do it better than your TV but from my experience only high end upscaling DVD players ($300+) will show a clear improvement of the simple scaling that the TV already does.

I bought a 170 Denon 1080 upscaling DVD and it looked exactly the same as my old 480P DVD. So I returned it.

That being said, if your old DVD player does not have component outputs you will see an improvement but the improvement will not be due to the 1080i upscaling, it will simply be due to using a better input method (component or HDMI will always look much better than composite).

So if you already have a decent DVD with component outputs you should save your money and wait for the HD format wars to settle down. If you have an older composite output DVD player you should upgrade and you will see a significant improvement.

My current player is about 7 years old and its best form of output is S-video which I'm using. The Samsung upconverting player that I mentioned is actually 1080p via HDMI so my gut tells me this would be a significant upgrade. At least that's what I'm trying to have someone agree or disagree with.
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post #1106 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 10:31 PM
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Hello,

Just bought a 4695D this past week and have been using it for a few days. I haven't seen any clouding issues or any other troubles that others have been mentioned in this thread.

However, I'm trying to use Digital Video Essentials to calibrate my TV's picture and I have a few questions for anyone else that's used DVE to calibrate their 4695:

1. As for brightness, were you able to see the outside black bars on the pluge screen? There's supposed to be 3 bars, but I can only see 2.

2. How exactly are you supposed to adjust contrast? In the "Basic Instructions: Contrast" section, the host says that the following instructions are only for CRT-displays and that instructions for adjusting other displays types are "in the next section." What next section? The section after contrast is "Basic Instructions - Color." Are the instructions for adjusting contrast on a non-CRT display under "Troubleshooting - Contrast"?

3. I was able to get the color bars on DVE to look right with the blue and the red color filters provided with the DVD. However, the color bars are completely off looking through the green filter. Was anyone else able to get their 4695 to look right through the green filter?
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post #1107 of 4616 Old 01-27-2007, 11:13 PM
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Ack! got a dead pixel on my 5296D. I thought dead pixels were supposed to be black. This pixel I have is lit up.
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post #1108 of 4616 Old 01-28-2007, 07:48 AM
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I have a Samsung LN-S4696d. When I use the channel button to surf up the channels, when I get to, say, channels 46 and 47 they won't come in. 44 comes in, 45 comes in, 46 and 47 won't, 48 and on up are fine. When I then come back and try 46 and 47 they come in. Then, much later in the day when I turn on the set again, the same thing happens but with a different channel or two, that is some channel won't come in when I get to it with the channel up/down button, but when I come back to the problem channel, it will come in. Always a different channel, happens every day. I have reset the channel manager list several times, reset the cablecard channel list several times, all to no avail. Have any of you experienced anything like this? Am ready to return it to Best Buy.
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post #1109 of 4616 Old 01-28-2007, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverFJ View Post

Ack! got a dead pixel on my 5296D. I thought dead pixels were supposed to be black. This pixel I have is lit up.

You must be thinking about plasma. On a plasma TV, the pixels themselves emit light, so when they die they are black.

On an LCD, the light is provided by the backlight, so when the pixels are on, they become opaque and block the light from the backlight. So when they die, they remain transparent and the light always shines through.
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post #1110 of 4616 Old 01-28-2007, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by wtbrowN View Post

I have a Samsung LN-S4696d. When I use the channel button to surf up the channels, when I get to, say, channels 46 and 47 they won't come in. 44 comes in, 45 comes in, 46 and 47 won't, 48 and on up are fine.

The only time I've seen something similar on my 4096 is with Comcast OnDemand channels, which is a different (and understandable) condition. However, I've known people who have had similar problems with Cablecards - not the exact thing, but close. Does this happen on only analog or digital, or both types of channels?
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Samsung Ln S4095d 40 Inch 1080p Lcd Hdtv , Samsung Ln S4695d 46 Inch Lcd Hdtv
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