SAMSUNG LN-S5296D PHOTOS,COMMENTS & REVIEWS - Page 29 - AVS Forum
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post #841 of 870 Old 02-21-2009, 09:05 AM
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My tv just did this for the second time in two years. I am so annoyed. There is something definitely screwy with this set. Has anyone heard of similar problems with other Samsung models or did I just get lucky with this one? Of course I am 1 month past extended warranty. Might try just replacing the power supply but worried I'll see this again in 6 months. First time around I was covered and they swapped out both the PS and mainboard. Any thoughts on whether or not a power conditioner might help avoid this? Standard powerstrip in place now certainly not preventing this.

Thx
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post #842 of 870 Old 02-21-2009, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammycloud View Post

My tv just did this for the second time in two years. I am so annoyed. There is something definitely screwy with this set. Has anyone heard of similar problems with other Samsung models or did I just get lucky with this one? Of course I am 1 month past extended warranty. Might try just replacing the power supply but worried I'll see this again in 6 months. First time around I was covered and they swapped out both the PS and mainboard. Any thoughts on whether or not a power conditioner might help avoid this? Standard powerstrip in place now certainly not preventing this.

Thx


Hi Sammy, sorry to hear that it happened again with your set. I'm thinking that it's a weakness in the power supply itself, and that it's going to happen on the majority of 5296 models. Before giving up on the set, I would try replacing the power supply with one from printsavings.com like Carloss did. I don't know if this is a 3rd party power supply or the actual Samsung one, but for $180 you can't really go wrong unless there's other reasons you might have to want to replace the set. Luckily the caps that were replaced on my power supply are holding up. My fingers are crossed that the caps were the weak link in the factory power supply... Other than PS problem, I still love my set and I'm very satisfied with it.

As for the power conditioner, since the day I brough my 5296 home I've had it plugged into APC XS-1500 UPS. I know this UPS isn't designed specifically for audio/video, but I would hope it would have conditioned the input power enough to prevent damage to the power supply. I suspect the power supply on our 5296's are vulnerable to this happening no matter how the input power is conditioned.


...John
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post #843 of 870 Old 02-21-2009, 09:25 AM
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Thanks John. As much as I am jonesing for an LED backlit 120HZ display, my wallet would be much more comfortable with a sub $200 spend right now. Do you think it makes sense to crack her open first and try to spot blown capacitors or is it pretty much a sure thing if I'm getting the blue light but no power up?

I observed the swap last time and it seemed pretty straight forward. Do you recall if this is detailed in the standard user manual or do you know of a link to a repair guide I can check out before attempting this swap? I'm assuming that if I am very comfortable playing around in the guts of a pc or server this should not be too different?

I love my set too and hate the idea of only getting 2 years out of it. My only other complaint is slight mura in one corner. Hence my alias.

Thx,

-Seth
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post #844 of 870 Old 02-21-2009, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammycloud View Post

Thanks John. As much as I am jonesing for an LED backlit 120HZ display, my wallet would be much more comfortable with a sub $200 spend right now. Do you think it makes sense to crack her open first and try to spot blown capacitors or is it pretty much a sure thing if I'm getting the blue light but no power up?

I observed the swap last time and it seemed pretty straight forward. Do you recall if this is detailed in the standard user manual or do you know of a link to a repair guide I can check out before attempting this swap? I'm assuming that if I am very comfortable playing around in the guts of a pc or server this should not be too different?

I love my set too and hate the idea of only getting 2 years out of it. My only other complaint is slight mura in one corner. Hence my alias.

Thx,

-Seth


Seth, I added some remarks about the line conditioning in my last post.

I would try to PM carloss and see if he has any advice as far as replacing the PS yourself. I know if I was on the fence whether to keep the set or replace it, I would have no hesitation to pulling the back of the TV off to replace the PS myself, but then I too am pretty experienced in ripping apart PC's and servers.

...John
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post #845 of 870 Old 02-21-2009, 08:03 PM
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OK, so I pulled off the back of the tv and discovered what appear to be three blown capacitors (tops are bulged out, clearly look different from their siblings). I will be ordering a new part plus I may attempt some surgery with a soldering iron as well. Any idea if I need to worry about electrocuting myself if I start pulling these babies out?

Looks like I don't need to invest in a fancy power conditioner - thanks for that.

Also - part was very hard to find b/c it is the same part as the newer model which came out shortly after - LN-T5265F - so I couldn't find it. For future reference part is BN44-00150A and capacitors affected all seem to be 1000uF 10V - I got 35V based on a different post out there but those, while bigger, should be fine.

Seth
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post #846 of 870 Old 02-26-2009, 08:07 AM
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I have TV! Thanks for your posts and input! Got a new power supply for 90 bucks on ebay swapped it right out and voila - problem solved. Probably saved at least $600 - $800 in repairs. I will still attempt capacitor surgery this weekend so I have a spare.
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post #847 of 870 Old 02-26-2009, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammycloud View Post

I have TV! Thanks for your posts and input! Got a new power supply for 90 bucks on ebay swapped it right out and voila - problem solved. Probably saved at least $600 - $800 in repairs. I will still attempt capacitor surgery this weekend so I have a spare.


That's awesome, Seth!! Glad I could help! Just out of curiosity, what is the build-date of your set? I believe mine was November 2006 (I haven't looked since I took it out of the box in Feb07).

...John
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post #848 of 870 Old 02-26-2009, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jkoeller View Post

That's awesome, Seth!! Glad I could help! Just out of curiosity, what is the build-date of your set? I believe mine was November 2006 (I haven't looked since I took it out of the box in Feb07).

...John


I need to check later on. However I bought mine in Jan 07 so pretty close I'd think.
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post #849 of 870 Old 03-02-2009, 03:19 PM
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Well...Im an owner of two years of this set (LN-S5296D). I found out my power inverter failed. Technician swapped both the main board and power supply and no luck.

My problem is the same as many of you. For a awhile I had to turn on the TV twice for a picture. Now..I just have the blue light on, and no picture. So now..I have a big flat rock on my tv stand..can't play my PS3/X360 with new games (KillZone2,Streetfighter IV).......Im going to try and place a claim through my panamax protector....

Anyhow...I wanna stay with Samsung, just trying to decide between the 58" Plasma for another 52" LCD...

LOL..I feel like I lost a family member......
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post #850 of 870 Old 03-03-2009, 08:15 PM
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Sorry to hear it. I was hoping the symptoms would always be indicative of the same problem, but apparently not. (Unless of course the tech used a poorly refurbed part or otherwise screwed up the replacement. The tech from the first time out put the power supply cover back on incorrectly - kind of just forced it in). If money is not an issue, let me be the first to suggest the new 55" LED backlit LCD (950). Sounds like the best of both worlds. Good luck.
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post #851 of 870 Old 06-15-2009, 09:17 PM
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Hi all,

The same thing happened to me today as you've all reported recently. I switched on my LNS5296 and only received the steady blue light and nothing on the screen itself. After reading your posts I opened the TV, found the power inverter board, and I too had "puffed capacitors". Four out of five of the "Samwha" branded 1000µf, 10v, 105°C aluminum electrolytic radials popped.

The model code is "WB" but Samwha discontinued that model in 1999, long before our TVs were built. I suspect whoever assembled the board had too many left over. The new model is "MK", although I replaced mine with NTE branded 1000µf, 16v, 105°C ones from 'Fry's', a consumer electronics chain here.

It works. I've uploaded a set of pictures in a form of 'how-to' since this seems to be a common problem. Careful of static and electrocution, do these steps with it unplugged at minimum. The attached pictures are numbered to match the steps below:
  1. LCD facing screen down with rear casing removed. First remove the pedestal/base if you're not wall-mounted and then remove the back plastic cover. Once configured as in the picture remove the metal cover that the arrow points to the center of.
  2. Under that metal cover you'll find this board - follow the arrows and compare it to your own. The domed capacitors with the insulation visible are "bad". If yours are all fine, you may have a different problem.
  3. A) Here you see a closeup of the area and my four bad ones. B) Remove your bad ones as I have by heating the solder points on the back and gently pulling them off the board. C) Stick the new ones through making sure that the direction is the same as the originals. They'll either have a key picture matching the board, or they'll have a stripe, or both. Clip them to the same length as the originals and solder them on. D) Complete, make sure you can't wiggle them.
  4. Being extremely careful... plug the board back in, plug in the TV and make sure that the blue light starts blinking and the fan turns on. Your TV likely did neither before, and should now. If you pop a capacitor you likely put it in backwards, or it might be faulty. Replace.
  5. Put the TV back together and test it formally.





Quote:
Originally Posted by sammycloud View Post

OK, so I pulled off the back of the tv and discovered what appear to be three blown capacitors (tops are bulged out, clearly look different from their siblings). (clip) For future reference part is BN44-00150A and capacitors affected all seem to be 1000uF 10V - I got 35V based on a different post out there but those, while bigger, should be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoeller View Post

For anyone else that wakes up to the horrifying realization that their 5296 won't power on...(clip) The problem ended up being in the power supply, and since the set was no longer under warranty, they took the extra effort to repair the power supply rather than replacing it. They found 5 blown 1000uf capacitors ("puffed caps" for those in the biz )and replaced them - which fixed the problem!

Quote:
Originally Posted by carloss View Post

I had the same problem last week, no power and a big scare. (clip) a BIG thanks to jkoeller, since I checked my power supply and indeed it had puffed caps. I ordered a replacement PS from printsavings.com, got it in 2 days and it solved the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyHalo View Post

Well...Im an owner of two years of this set (LN-S5296D). I found out my power inverter failed. Technician swapped both the main board and power supply and no luck. My problem is the same as many of you. For a awhile I had to turn on the TV twice for a picture. Now..I just have the blue light on, and no picture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstrazz View Post

HELP! My Samsung LN-S5296D suddenly stopped working. It worked fine last night. I turned if off, went to bed and this morning it won't turn on. I turn it on and I get nothing. That little blue light is still on at the bottom of the screen.


LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #852 of 870 Old 06-16-2009, 04:43 AM
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Holy Cow (no pun intended) Rubbercow, thanks for the detailed instructions! Ever since it happened the first time, I knew if it happened again I was going to fix it myself... and I wasn't really looking forward to feeling my way around inside the TV. The pictures are a *huge* help!
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post #853 of 870 Old 06-27-2009, 05:05 PM
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Same problem here, last night the screen was black but the blue light was on. I read the thread, opened the TV, found 3 capacitors burned out and replaced them with 1000 microFarad 16V. Now I have a picture again. Couldn't have it done without the pictures. Thank you so much. Saved me hundreds of dollars. Cost 9$. Hope it will last for a while.
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post #854 of 870 Old 08-15-2009, 05:35 PM
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Same thing happened this weekend to my 5296. Turned it off and the next morning it would not turn on. Removed the back. (there must be 100 screws in that back panel.) I have 4 bulged caps but will replace all the 10v with 16v. Luckily I am a electronic tech (retired). Will order the parts online or get them Monday. I will post again if this fixes the problem. (Crossed fingers) Samsung better be paying attention to these comments. Sounds like they put in a bunch of underrated components and a recall is in order. 2 years life on an electrolytic cap, I don't think so.

My many thanks to the person (Rubbercow) for the pictures. They made the process easy.

Art
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post #855 of 870 Old 08-22-2009, 03:00 PM
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SUCCESS!, the new caps did the trick. Had to wait almost a week for them to arrive from Texas but it was worth it. I used the 1000uf 16v as replacements. Now we will see how long these last.

BUT a question. Can someone check on the fan and see if it runs continuously or only when the unit gets hot? The only time I have seen mine run is when I plugged it in to see if the unit was going to work. It spun a little bit and then stopped. I have been running the TV for several hours and it hasn't come on yet. (Didn't even know it had a fan until I removed the back.) If the fan circuit has failed it may be the reason the caps cooked. Can someone check to see if their fan is running and tell me whether it is exhausting or sucking in air through the holes in the back of the TV? I'm going to add an auxiliary fan by sticking a small 12v CPU fan over the hole and connecting it to a 9 to 12v wall wort and I don't want it fighting the airflow of the internal fan if it should decide to start working. (you can never have too much cooling.)

Thanks to everyone and again thanks for the pictures,
Art, Congress, AZ
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post #856 of 870 Old 01-03-2010, 12:54 PM
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Sonufa... this just happened to me for the 3rd time in 3 years. At least this time I know how to fix it. Sadly my desoldering skils are somewhat deficient so I'll probably end up just ordering a replacement board for around $100.
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post #857 of 870 Old 01-03-2010, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammycloud View Post

Sonufa... this just happened to me for the 3rd time in 3 years. At least this time I know how to fix it. Sadly my desoldering skils are somewhat deficient so I'll probably end up just ordering a replacement board for around $100.

3 times?? Damn, sorry to hear that. Luckily mine is still going strong 14 months after the caps were replaced... knock on wood.

Thanks for the update Seth.


...John
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post #858 of 870 Old 01-03-2010, 04:12 PM
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I'm guessing my issue is that I got replacement boards from original tv's with the original cheap caps. I will replace the caps on the current board with better as that seems to be working for you. Then I can keep it in reserve for the next time... Glad to hear you are still going strong.
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post #859 of 870 Old 01-04-2010, 10:02 PM
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Interesting factoid: I looked at the pics rubbercow posted as well as the two bad boards I still have. Same 4 capacitors were blown on all three.

That being said - I bit the bullet with a new board on the way - mastered the solder sucker (more or less) and replaced the 4 capacitors with $7 worth of parts and an hour or two of sweat. TV is working again. Very happy.
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post #860 of 870 Old 01-05-2010, 09:28 AM
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I haven't used a soldering iron since my days in the USAF in the 80's. Here's to hoping I'll never need to in the future. :-)
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post #861 of 870 Old 04-23-2010, 10:06 PM
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I have found the entire board on several online parts suppliers. Can anyone recommend a reliable one? I have seen it for around $175 and it is listed as new. Just dont know if it is reliable. The videos on youtube to replace the board seem pretty simple. Finding a reliable supplier is another matter. Thanks for your help.
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post #862 of 870 Old 05-20-2010, 06:45 PM
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hey guys, sorry about having a ton of questions but I don't want to mess up my tv so here it goes!

I am wondering what types would work? links please?

Do I need to replace them all with the new ones?
I see that there are larger and smaller ones, do I need two different types of capacitors?
When soldering them do I pull them off a bit first or how does that go? (some details please!)

Thanks!
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post #863 of 870 Old 09-03-2010, 10:49 AM
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Argh. Now I have run into this. I have the LNT5265F/XAA...

I'm struggling with where to find the power supply. While the concept of just replacing the caps is interesting, it seems an easier fix to just replace the whole Power unit.. I cannot find the damn thing anywhere.. PMs/posts appreciated
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post #864 of 870 Old 09-29-2010, 10:15 AM
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I've had the same problems with my set as the rest of you had, but my problem occurs when it is very humid out.

I have replaced just about every capacitor on the power supply board and I still have no back-light, just a 1 second flash at start-up. I'm leaning to the problem being with the inverter boards more than the power supply board, though they did us some pretty crappy capacitors in the power supply.

I read a post where some guy bought replacement boards from "encompassparts". Samsung parts wants $167 for their replacement supply board (BN44-000150A) where this place wants $67. Seems they have a lot of the replacement boards in stock. Might be worth a try...

I can't put the whole URL in, but add the three w's and the dotcom and you should get there.
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post #865 of 870 Old 10-12-2010, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J@K@SS View Post

I've had the same problems with my set as the rest of you had, but my problem occurs when it is very humid out.

For anyone who's interested; my set was dead again last week though the humidity was much lower. I tore the back off my set and started looking at the inverter boards to see if I could see any arcing. The LNT5265FX has 4 inverter boards, each with 12 transformers. I could see no arcing from any of the boards and was about to close up the back when I decided to try hitting the boards with a hair dryer to see if one was more sensitive than the others to humidity. With the dryer on med (warm setting) I blew the warm air over the first board for about a minute and tried powering on the TV. It came right up and worked fine. I reassembled the TV and it still worked and has been working for the past week with varying humidity levels. I think the fix for my TV will be to tape some silica gel packets inside the set to absorb the moisture. If I have to change them once or twice a year that's not a big deal, and they're much cheaper than buying new power boards that are not broken, probably just dryer.
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post #866 of 870 Old 11-12-2010, 06:19 AM
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I have a 40" Samsung that went bad before my 52" Samsung so I figured it would be the 5 caps I read about in many other forums. I opened my 5296 and found that none of the caps were bulged. I replaced them anyway and still have the same problem where there is no picture. Anybody have a solution?
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post #867 of 870 Old 11-18-2010, 10:44 AM
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Do you have no picture or no back light? You can use a flash light to see if the lcd crystals are changing. Those caps that bulge are low voltage and have nothing to do with the back light supply, which is a very high voltage. They are for bypassing the digital processing board's supplies.
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post #868 of 870 Old 01-18-2011, 04:32 AM
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I'm trying to work out if I have a problems with caps as well. I have an older LA40R71BDX and it's been on the fritz. While it was still under warranty I had the problem of turning it on and getting sound but the picture just turned into a bunch of vertical lines (see video):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30Hth8pI2LM

The tech replaced the panel and the board, but recently it's cropped up again with greater and greater frequency. Do these symptoms sound correct?
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post #869 of 870 Old 01-18-2011, 05:36 PM
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Not the same symptoms I experienced so may be something else. My tv would just not power on but the blue light was on. Blown caps are pretty easy to spot so may be worth opening up and checking, but this could be a number of other things as well. (I'd just be guessing as to what though). Good luck.
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post #870 of 870 Old 02-27-2012, 08:33 PM
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http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/

In case anyone still gets notified on this thread. As usual lawyers make the most $$ in a class action suit.
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