Sharp D62U Settings and Tweaks - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought it would be useful for owners of the d62u series of Sharp LCDs to have a place to post settings, various tweaks, etc. to get the best picture possible out of your new set. To get started, I'll add a link from ewerx of the settings he's compiled so far:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ewerx View Post

...http://docs.google.com/View?docid=dt5d79n_1z54pwb

I will continue updating this doc as people post their settings and any other useful info.

Another thing that is helpful is the posting from uncle_b on how to get your set to display a uniform gray background. Please note that this requires you to go into the set's service menu. Do not change any settings in this area unless you know what you are doing! Changing an incorrect setting can permanantly damage your TV and most likely will not be covered under warranty. In specific, do not use the RESET GAMMA option. A few people have done so and have not been able to get their TV's to look correct after doing so.

Please note that the buttons you need to push to get into the service menu are on the TV, not the remote!:

Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_b View Post

Another way to get a uniform grey background to check for banding is to use the built-in service menu. There are probably ways of really messing up your set if you do the wrong thing from the service menus, so do this at your own risk:

Enter service menu by first unplugging set, then while holding both input button and volume down button, plug TV back in. Within about 5 seconds, the set will power up (without pressing the "on" button); keep holding the input and volume down buttons until a small "K" appears in a box on the left side of the screen. Then press and hold the channel down and vol down buttons at the same time to enter the service menu.

Once the service menu is displayed on the screen, you can get the screen to display different levels of solid grey by pressing the number keys on your remote. i.e. press "1" to get a relatively dark grey, 2 for a lighter grey, and so on up to 6 which is a bright white screen; 7, 8, and 9 don't appear to do anything. Press any number a second time to return to the service menu...

The following hex command can also be used to get into the service menu (with the TV on) if you have a programmable remote control:

SHARP-AQUOS (1,64) Service mode
0000 006d 0000 0020 000a 0047 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 0047 000a 001e 000a 0047 000a 001e 000a 068b 000a 0047 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 001e 000a 0047 000a 0047 000a 0047 000a 0047 000a 0047 000a 0047 000a 001e 000a 0047 000a 001e 000a 0047 000a 068b

Press the power button or unplug the set to get out of the service menu.

I'm posting this as a way to get a gray background in order to see what colors need to be adjusted, not so that you can look for banding. Please do not use this thread to discuss banding. There are a couple of other threads out there that are being used for this.

If you are interested in finding out more about your TV, there is an ebay auction (item #270049194183) for a copy of the service manual. I purchased a copy and it is the real deal. However, I don't know if the copy violates any copywrite laws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinJ View Post

I can't take credit but did see this before and wonder the same thing, there is a way to turn off dynamic color which causes issues when trying to adjust color through the menu. You know where you adjust color + or - and it decreases/increase then seems to increase/decrease on its own. The setting is after entering the extended menu (150+ pages) for DCOL, change it to a non zero value.

This certainly improves your chances of having consitent color adjustments using tuning DVD's. Also this doesn't require you to save to the EEPROM. Just set it and turn off the set. I believe the ACTBL setting bight be dynamic back lighting.

You can access the extended service menu by following the instructions to access the service menu and then press the [display] button on your remote. The specific setting is called DCOL_DISABLE.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinJ View Post

This should be on the first few pages after pressing "display" on your remote. Change it to a non-zero value "1". The "0" value is on, "1" is off. When you change it, the screen will blank briefly to apply the setting. Turn off the LCD and on.

A good way to test if you don't have tuning DVDs with color filters, before you change the setting is do the PC input test of opening a Web browser to google in a small window and then drag the edge to expand the size and reduce it and you'll see the background will saturate and de-saturate in color. Another ways is to pause a DVD preferably with skin tones (close up shot) or a bright scene. Adjust color and as you move the slider, if your decreasing color, your adjustment will decrease, and then dynamic color will increase it automatically. If you have tuning DVD, the one thing you can notice is that you adjust your settings and move to the next test and then go back and the color doesn't look the same because the scene changed and color was automatically adjusted in most cases upward (saturation).

Now turn dynamic color off and perform the same tests and you'll see that automatic adjustment of color is off. It can take some getting used to since dynamic color will cause color to "pop" or saturate. So you'll have to retune color and tint after turning it off so strike a balance of skin tones to color saturation but at least you'll be able to do this accurately.

Here is a good post by A.r.k.i.v.e.r on adjusting the various non-service menu settings:

Quote:
Originally Posted by A.r.k.i.v.e.r View Post

Ok, I've had my set for a few days now and think I have it fairly dialed in for my three primary sources (Cable/DVD/XBOX360). First off, many thanks to Therese and the countless other posters who have provided invaluable information on tweaking this set. Without yal, I'd have been fumbling thru the manual pulling out what little hair I have left. I'll include my settings below with whatever notes I can think of below each one, if applicable.

First off, I recommend you set the AV mode of each input you plan to calibrate to "User" first (the presets are chosen with a button under the flip-up panel located at the bottom of the remote). I wouldn't use the pre-defined modes, like "Movie", as they are great for reference purposes (i.e. Joe Blow says random DVD looks great on the "Movie" setting...you can then give it a try). Obviously, if you need multiple configs for one input for different sources because you have a switcher, or you just want to have different configs for different ambient light settings, then go ahead and reconfigure one of the other presets, but I would start with the "User" one first.

I used DVE to dial my set into a baseline config. I don't recommend using discs like these as set-in-stone tools. Use them to give you something to start with (as the out-of-box settings are almost always atrocious, regardless of manufacturer), and then go from there to tailor it to your needs.

View Mode: Dot-by-dot for DVD/XBOX, Smart Stretch (4:3) and Stretch (HD) for Cable

I have a 1080 upconverting DVD player, so dot-by-dot made the most sense for me. As for cable, I use Smart Stretch for 4:3 content, and Stretch for HD content. I'm sure most use the dot-by-dot for HD content, but I couldn't get around the annoyance of the extra noise I would sometimes get on one side with 1080 content, and in some cases *both* sides, which makes it impossible to adjust out using the positional tool. I'm a set-it-and-forget-it viewer, so since I could discern no noticable visual difference between using dot-by-dot and using Stretch to expand it a few pixels, I left it on Stretch for HD content (I used a lot of HD source material I had on my DVR). As for Smart Stretch, it's everything people say it is. It makes 4:3 content almost look as if it's formatted for 16:9. Comparing it to Sony's "intelligent" stretching, I found their implementation to overly stretch the objects near the right/left edges of the screen. Sharp's implementation is noticably better in my opinion.

Note: This setting is changed using the button near the top/right of the remote.

Digital Noise Reduction: Off (All Sources)

I list this setting now because with the exception of View Mode and AV mode, all the other settings you really need to get at are contained in the Picture settings menu. As with most TV's, the DNR degraded the picture in my opinion. Your milage may vary, but I turned it off and haven't looked back.

Note: This option is hidden in the far right drop-down when you click "Menu" on the remote.


Advanced Settings:


I'm sure you're thinking, "Advanced Settings"? The reason I start there is because those settings can have an impact on the basic settings (brightness/contrast/etc), so quickly setting these options now can save you some extra calibration in the long run. Eventually you'll want to come back and double-check them against your roughly calibrated system, but odds are, most settings will remain where you set them the first time through. You can find the Advanced Settings listed as a sub-menu under the Picture Settings (found by pressing "Menu" on the remote).

Color Temp.: Middle (All Sources)

I originally started off with "High" to help offset some of the red push I noticed. I did this to avoid having to overly gimp the color setting, however, extended staring at a white screen (which probably causes cancer) between the various temperatures showed me a noticable bluish tone in the pure white I wasn't happy with at that setting. As a result, I decided to set it to "Middle" and fix the red push elsewhere.

Black Enhancer: On (All sources)

Generally, I'm against most processing "features" that TV manufacturers add in. Sony is notorious for giving useless features that are better served being off...I should know...I went through two 46" XBR2's before I finally gave up and decided on the Sharp 52". However, I think this is actually a benefit in my opinion as it adds contrast without crushing the whites in the process.

Fine Motion: Off

Doesn't seem to help at all. Since I suspect it enhances response time at the expense of contrast and backlight, I chose to disable this. This setting may get some use on the XBOX as I play with it some more...although Need For Speed: Carbon looks FANTASTIC at my current settings with this disabled.


Regular Picture Settings:


OPC: Off (All Sources)

Set this to off...always. Don't give it a second thought. I wish I could take Sony's ambient light detector (found in it's XBR) and carry it over and put it in my Sharp because it worked *wonderfully*. Unfortunately, I have no praises to sing about Sharp's implementation. It's just...awful, at least in my viewing area (moderate to low ambient light, depending on time of day). You can define the OPC range in the advanced menu, but it always felt like it cranked my backlight down to it's lowest setting regardless of ambient light. This is great if you like great blacks, but bad if you want the shadow detail.

Backlight: -8 for DVD, -6 for Cable/XBOX

Backlight is a toughie because you really want to get this pretty close to where you want it *first*, and then dial in the rest of the settings using calibration and your eye. I found the best way to do this was to run thru a quick calibration using DVE, put in Batman Begins (preferably with a small amount of ambient light in the room) and check out the dark scenes. Play with the backlight/brightness until the pure black areas have a tone you're happy with (if they look dark to light grey, keep dialing it down). Once you have a tone you're happy with, move on (for now). Personally, I liked my DVD player with a slightly lower backlight then my other sources. Perhaps this is because I'm much more conscious of it since there's usually some bars above/below the content on 2.35 material. I compensate for this with a slight increase to brightness below.

Contrast: +30 (All Sources)

Ironically, even though people have been going on and on about red push, I found this setting the hardest to dial-in. My experience with this TV is that it has a very strong tendency to crush whites. It took me a lot of tweaking with different sources to get it to where the whites looked really good. The best test is to find scenes that have dark foreground and a white area in the background. If it looks like the whites are "puffy", or just too white relative to the other material, keep toning it down. A lot of other folks report +32 as the sweet spot, but I found it to be just slightly lower. Once again, ymmv

Brightness: -4 for DVD, -6 for Cable/XBOX

This is another one of those settings that you will play with forever before you're totally content with where it's at. Striving for that perfect "black" without losing shadow detail is probably the most time-consuming part overall. Those settings represent my sweet spot for those sources. What I like to do is, after the backlight is set, calibrate the brightness using DVE as a starting point, and then load up some movies that have lots of shadow detail (once again, Batman Begins is great for this). Freeze the movie on an area that has shadows with detail as close to pure black as you can find. Then, get really close to your TV and adjust the brightness up a ton. If you see detail "popping" out of the black, then the brightness needs to come up a titch, if you don't and it just makes the areas brighter, then do this process in reverse (i.e. see if you can lower the brightness without losing detail). My opinion is that the DVE test pattern (assuming your backlight is dialed in) is very close to on-the-money. As mentioned above, I had to dial my brightness up a hair to compensate for the decreased backlight.

Color: -4 (All Sources)

This is going to be your primary tool for getting rid of the notorious "red push" everyone is talking about. If someone posts a straight-forward way to accomplish that via the service menu, I *may* give it a try. The reason I say this is because I had to pull my color setting outside of calibrated to negate the red push. Not horribly outside, but it's not bang-on, that's for sure.

Tint: 0 (All Sources)

By the time I got down to fine-tuning this setting, I was already so pleased with the color reproduction, I left it as-is. Since all of these settings affect each other in various ways, I chose not to tempt fate and risk throwing one of my other settings off (primarily color) just to have this bang-on with DVE.

Sharpness: 0 (All Sources)

This is an important setting. There is a cutoff for this setting where it's effects take a drastic change. This point is at -4. Once you hit that, a primary function of the sharpness tool is disabled (or drasticly lowered) as there is a very noticable dropoff in sharpness. Whether you are above or below this setting will largely depend, in my eyes, on your viewing distance. I sit about 10ft away from my TV, and while going -4 or below softened up the SD picture a fair bit, it "fuzzied" my HD picture far too much for my liking. For this reason, I left it at it's default setting, which is what I found to be bang-on for my viewing. If you sit closer, you may want it at -4 or lower, especially if you watch any SD material.


Anyway, I think that covers everything. The most important thing to remember is that you'll do 90% of your calibration in the first hour, and the last 10% over the next 20 hours. Use tools like DVE to give you a starting point, and then dial it in with your eyes so it's the best picture to *you*. Find some source matieral and stick with it so you have a base of comparison when going between settings. Lastly, always remember that if you change a setting, go back and assess the other ones, even if you already dialed them in, because they all affect each other in subtle ways (and some in not-so subtle ways).

Overall, I'm very happy with the set and look forward to finally *watching* it instead of just calibrating it (as is my wife...heh). Good luck.

Jeff

*Edited for typos and grammatical anomolies

Here are settings that dangled arrived at using professional level calibration equipment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by dangled View Post

With everyone posting settings, I thought I'd share my results using a Sencore VP-403 (calibrated yearly) signal gen and various inputs/resolutions into my LC-46D62U. One thing to note is the drastic difference between 480i component input and HD component input with regards to the brightness (black level) setup.

The only control I tweak is the backlight setup (depending on room lighting conditions). Ex. -11 works well in a completely dark room; standard (mid) to 12+ for when the lights are on/sunny room.

All inputs:
Menu > Advanced

* Color temp: low (closest to D65)
* Black: off
* Fine Motion: off
* Monochrome: off
* Film Mode: on

#s are from 611 serial I have now; #s in [] are from the previous 610 model I had.

HDMI w/1080i signal
Contrast: 30 [30]
Brightness: -14 [-12]
Color: 4 [3]
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0 [-7]

Component w/1080i signal
Contrast: 30 [28]
Brightness: 1 [2]
Color: 0 [-1]
Tint: 0 [0]
Sharpness: -4/0 [-5] (-4 is effectively 'off' for this setting, but all other #s seem to be 'on')

Component w/480i signal
Contrast: 30
Brightness: 17
Color: 5
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -4/0

Antenna w/1080i signal
Contrast: 30 [30]
Brightness: 0 [0]
Color: -5 [-4]
Tint: -3 [-2]
Sharpness: 0 [-8]

S-Video w/480i signal
Contrast: 30 [31]
Brightness: -2 [2]
Color: 9 [0]
Tint: 0 [0]
Sharpness: -4/0 [-5]

If anyone wants/needs other resolutions/inputs, let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dangled View Post

A Konica Minolta CA-210 color analyzer - I'm about to upgrade to a CS-200 chromameter (just placed the order today...the geek in me is thrilled

For my 46D62U, I found -11 backlight produced about 100 Cd/m2 with peak white (my personal 'limit' for viewing in a pitch black room)...otherwise, set the backlight as high as you want as it doesn't affect the black level setup.

Here are some PowerStrip settings to get 1080p from your computer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BB Gun View Post

I got my ATI X850 Pro working at 1080P with the 46D62U finally. I had to use powerstrip to do so, however.

Here are the Powerstrip settings that worked (right out of its presets)



Had to turn the sharpness almost ALL the way down (-9), and the contrast and brightness are fricken INCREDIBLE - so much so, that I had to dial THEM down a lot as well. I Hope the set retains the dialed down PC settings in PC mode and the TV settings in TV mode as each setting will make the other look TERRIBLE. It seems to, anyway, after playing with it for a few minutes.

BB

Quote:
Originally Posted by BB Gun View Post

...And the URL for powerstrip.

http://entechtaiwan.net/util/ps.shtm..

Also, be sure that your TV's picture mode is in dot-by-dot.

It also appears that there may be a problem displaying 1080p correctly with NVIDIA video cards. Here is how one user got around it:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreydeng View Post

What I did first is to connect it to my HTPC and tried to see if I can get perfect 1:1 pixel mapping. I read lots of past posts and someone complains that when conecting to PC and feed it with 1080P signal the image doesn't fill the screen and that means that there is no 1:1 pixel mapping. So here is my story.

My system:

Intel C2D E6600 overclocked to 3.0G for smooth HD contents
2Gbytes OCZ DDR2-800 Patinum memory
Gigabyte 8500GT HDCP video card with passive heatsink (Forceware 163.69)
Windows Vista Ultimate

I connect HTPC to a HDMI switch using DVI-HDMI cable from monoprice.com and connect the HDMI switch to 46D62U using HDMI cable from monoprice.com also.

At the first attemp, I set the resolution to 1920x1080@60Hz and 46D62u to 'dot by dot' viewing mode. The desktop was not displayed in full and there is a black boarder which is about 1 inch on each side of the screen. It looks like that the viewing area is about 42 to 43 inches instead of 46 inches. Obviously in this mode, the TV was displaying a 1080p signal on a area which has less pixels than 1920x1080. So the desktop is not so clear and the text is not clear either.

I tried to change the Nvidia driver settings and read the TV manual and trying to figure out how to get 1:1 mapping. I also tried both HDMI connectors on the TV and the situation didn't improve.

Then I thought that how about I use the 'resize' feature provided in Nvidia control panel to display the 1080p signal on the whole screen so that at least I can view the whole screen. So I did that and I can see the whole screen although it is really not 1:1 pixel mapping.

I then wonder if I change the 'resize' to 'no resize' in Nvidia control panel what will happen? I did that and suddenly the desktop becomes very clear and I got 1:1 pixel mapping. I then tried shutdown the HTPC and thun off/on the TV just trying to find out if this could change again. It didn't. So I got 1:1 pixel mapping on 46D62u with very strange procedure.

I still don't know why I got there and whether this will change over time. But at least I put it here for anyone who is still trying to make 1:1 pixel mapping work.



Thanks to 13bells, we have a power usage for various backlight settings. The maximum backlight setting takes almost 3 times the power of the minimum backlight setting! These numbers are for the 42" display.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13bells View Post

42D62U Power consumption on Dynamic setting with back light set to;

16 - 264 watts
8 - 205 watts
0 - 152 watts
-8 - 120 watts
-16 - 90 watts

There is some variation depending on what's on the screen.


D62U Firmware Version 1.07
I have had a chance to test the new firmware on my LC-52D62U and have had no problems with it so far. I also have not been able to see any difference using the new firmware, though I don't know what to look for since I haven't heard what the new firmware is supposed to address.

This firmware is only for use with the D62U series of Sharp TV's. Even though I haven't had a problem with it, use of the firmware is at your own risk.

The incorrect installation of the firmware could damage your TV. If you plan to update the firmware on your TV, I highly recommend that you plug the TV into a UPS so that a power fluctuation doesn't affect the installation.

Thanks to jokazaki, the firmware can be downloaded from:
http://2700.us/downloads/AVSForum/sharpd62fwv111.zip


Here are the steps to upgrade your firmware. Please take care to follow them exactly. I am not responsible for any problems with use of this firmware:
  1. Format an SD card to the FAT file system or use the software located at http://panasonic.jp/support/audio/sd...rmatter_e.html
  2. Unzip the downloaded firmware files and copy them to the blank SD card. The card must not have any folders or any other files installed on it;
  3. Unplug the TV;
  4. Remove the cover from the SD card slot located on the back of the TV, just above the Input 3 terminals;
  5. Insert the SD card into the slot;
  6. Plug in the TV, which should turn itself on;
  7. An upgrade screen, showing the upgrade status as well as the old and new eprom versions, should appear within 45 seconds;
  8. Once the firmware upgrade is successfully completed, the status bar should be at 100% and the screen should say ;
  9. Unplug the TV;
  10. Remove the SD card and replace the cover;
  11. Hold down the Volume Down and Input buttons on the TV and keep them held down for the next two steps;
  12. Plug in the TV;
  13. A white "K" should be displayed on the left side of the screen. Release the buttons;
  14. Hold down the VOLUME DOWN and CHANNEL DOWN buttons until the Blue Service Menu appears and then release the buttons;
  15. Verify that the new firmware is shown;
  16. Using the remote control, press the DOWN button to change to the next page;
  17. Using the remote, press the VOLUME UP button and then the ENTER button to change and execute the highlighted line (INDUSTRY INIT [Cause]);
  18. Unplug the TV to complete the upgrade.
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post #2 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for getting this started.

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post #3 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 06:14 PM
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Thanks for starting the thread!
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post #4 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 06:22 PM
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Thanks.

Here are the settings from CNET:

What follows are the picture settings we used to produce an optimal image in a completely dark room via the HDMI input with a 1080i source on the Sharp LC-46D62U. Your ideal settings may vary according to source, ambient lighting and personal preference.
Picture mode: Movie

OPC Off

Backlight ; -13

Contrast ; +32

Brightness -6

Color +6

Tint 0

Sharpness ; -10


Advanced menu

Color temp Low

Black On

Fine Motion Off

Film Mode On
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post #5 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 06:25 PM
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By the way can someone post on how to tweak this set via the service menu to optimize grey scale tracking etc.
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post #6 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 09:42 PM
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I just got the Cars DVD tonight and took these after I finally got 1080P through a PC connection. The movie looked awesome!
LL
LL
LL
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post #7 of 1141 Old 11-07-2006, 10:43 PM
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that looks VERY good for a standard def DVD
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post #8 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 05:33 AM - Thread Starter
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You're welcome... starting the thread is the easy part

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post #9 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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cb_ecc- do you mind editing your post to add your settings?

Thanks!
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post #10 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 07:12 AM
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I will post them when I get tonight. I actually meant to put this in the owners thread, it was a little late when I added it.

Did anyone else have problems getting 1080p to display on the 42. I have a radeon x700 128M card and downloaded the latest version of Catalyst control panel. It would not display 1080p 60 properly until I downloaded and installed Powerstrip and kept playing with the settings in there. Created a custom monitor .inf file from Powerstrip. Kept jerking around with the res and refresh rates. I was about to give up, but went back to the Catalyst Control and then it magically worked.
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post #11 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 07:26 AM
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Hello all - just wondering if I can get some suggestions on basic settings. I've fiddled around with the settings the have been documented with some success, but I think I can get better.

The issues I am having are with certain SD channels with darkly lit shows. Here are the two I notice most:

1. Skink tones vary between scenes and camera angles - for example in a wide shot, the skin tones are fine, then a close-up I'll see the pronounced color (is this the red push?)

2. Contrast is ok in more evenly lit scenes, but when there's a light background - like light coming in a window, this seeems to be overly bright and at times causes the person or object in the foreground to be too dark and muddies the detail.

Question: Which parameters should I start with when dealing with these two areas? TIA
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post #12 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlipJigs View Post

Hello all - just wondering if I can get some suggestions on basic settings. I've fiddled around with the settings the have been documented with some success, but I think I can get better.

The issues I am having are with certain SD channels with darkly lit shows. Here are the two I notice most:

1. Skink tones vary between scenes and camera angles - for example in a wide shot, the skin tones are fine, then a close-up I'll see the pronounced color (is this the red push?)

2. Contrast is ok in more evenly lit scenes, but when there's a light background - like light coming in a window, this seeems to be overly bright and at times causes the person or object in the foreground to be too dark and muddies the detail.

Question: Which parameters should I start with when dealing with these two areas? TIA

1) Possibly red push...tough to say without seeing pics. You can try turning down the color to -6 or so and maybe the tint as well. Also, turning the colot temp up to high should remove some of the red and replace it with more blue tones. Experiment with this, though I see much less pronounced change when changing temperatures then I do on other TV's and monitors.

2) Sounds like you need to tone down the contrast. Anything above 32 seems to really make it pop in my eyes.

Just my 1.4 cents (after taxes)
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post #13 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vikingmd View Post

By the way can someone post on how to tweak this set via the service menu to optimize grey scale tracking etc.

below is an excerpt from the first posting to this thread - unsure if it answers your question completely, but a start ----

Another thing that is helpful is the posting from uncle_b on how to get your set to display a uniform gray background. Please note that this requires you to go into the set's service menu. Do not change any settings in this area unless you know what you are doing! Changing an incorrect setting can permanantly damage your TV and most likely will not be covered under warranty:


Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_b
Another way to get a uniform grey background to check for banding is to use the built-in service menu. There are probably ways of really messing up your set if you do the wrong thing from the service menus, so do this at your own risk:

Enter service menu by first unplugging set, then while holding both input button and volume down button, plug TV back in. Within about 5 seconds, the set will power up (without pressing the "on" button); keep holding the input and volume down buttons until a small "K" appears in a box on the left side of the screen. Then press and hold the channel down and vol down buttons at the same time to enter the service menu.

Once the service menu is displayed on the screen, you can get the screen to display different levels of solid grey by pressing the number keys on your remote. i.e. press "1" to get a relatively dark grey, 2 for a lighter grey, and so on up to 6 which is a bright white screen; 7, 8, and 9 don't appear to do anything. Press any number a second time to return to the service menu...
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post #14 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.r.k.i.v.e.r View Post

1) Possibly red push...tough to say without seeing pics. You can try turning down the color to -6 or so and maybe the tint as well. Also, turning the colot temp up to high should remove some of the red and replace it with more blue tones. Experiment with this, though I see much less pronounced change when changing temperatures then I do on other TV's and monitors.

2) Sounds like you need to tone down the contrast. Anything above 32 seems to really make it pop in my eyes.

Thanks - I'll try that. The only problem I see tho with having more blue tones, is that the dark scenes always seem to have a blue tint or tone to them.

I also realize that I'm probably seeing what really a more accurate picture and I'm just not used to it.
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post #15 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vikingmd View Post

By the way can someone post on how to tweak this set via the service menu to optimize grey scale tracking etc.

also - manuals apparently avail on ebay?

Originally Posted by CJO
There is someone selling service manuals for the 46 and 52-inch models. I ordered one today:
http://cgi.*********/ws/eBayISAPI.d...em=270049194183

CJ
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post #16 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dash77 View Post

also - manuals apparently avail on ebay?

Originally Posted by CJO
There is someone selling service manuals for the 46 and 52-inch models. I ordered one today:
http://cgi.*********/ws/eBayISAPI.d...em=270049194183

CJ

sorry that link doesn't work any more - just access ebay and search on the item #
270049194183
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post #17 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlipJigs View Post

Thanks - I'll try that. The only problem I see tho with having more blue tones, is that the dark scenes always seem to have a blue tint or tone to them.

I also realize that I'm probably seeing what really a more accurate picture and I'm just not used to it.

That is SO true. If you used anything reasonable to calibrate (i.e. DVE or AVIA for example), give it a little time. Your eyes just may need to adjust to it. However, if you post some pics, we can offer an arbitrary opinion as to whether it's overly red or not. As a note, I had to adjust my color and tint outside of DVE calibrated settings to achieve a color I was happy with (especially flash tones).

Just my 1.4 cents (after taxes)
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post #18 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.r.k.i.v.e.r View Post

That is SO true. If you used anything reasonable to calibrate (i.e. DVE or AVIA for example), give it a little time. Your eyes just may need to adjust to it. However, if you post some pics, we can offer an arbitrary opinion as to whether it's overly red or not. As a note, I had to adjust my color and tint outside of DVE calibrated settings to achieve a color I was happy with (especially flash tones).

Agreed.

I have noticed that the flesh tones seem to be different from channel to channel and even program to program on the same channel. The problem with having a set like this after years of CRT is that this set is so good that it will show all the flaws of color and differences in the source material.

I have also used DVE in an attempt to get good color and found that I still had to tone down the red in the color and tint to get it where I liked it.

I have played with the gamma in the service menu with mixed results and went back to the original settings there. Anybody have any experience with this?

BTW with the DVE I was not able to get the Red and Green in without using the gamma settings in the service menu. And even then, the green was very difficult to get in.
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post #19 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.r.k.i.v.e.r View Post

That is SO true. If you used anything reasonable to calibrate (i.e. DVE or AVIA for example), give it a little time. Your eyes just may need to adjust to it. However, if you post some pics, we can offer an arbitrary opinion as to whether it's overly red or not. As a note, I had to adjust my color and tint outside of DVE calibrated settings to achieve a color I was happy with (especially flash tones).

I haven't even gotten to calibration - just taking my time and now starting to tweak settings. I'm also waiting until I get the HD dish hooked up - so far with HD OTA source, I notice the variances in color/contrast aren't as noticeable.

The next step tho will be getting the best DVD picture. Thanks for your input!
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post #20 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vikingmd View Post

Thanks.

Here are the settings from CNET:

What follows are the picture settings we used to produce an optimal image in a completely dark room via the HDMI input with a 1080i source on the Sharp LC-46D62U. Your ideal settings may vary according to source, ambient lighting and personal preference.
Picture mode: Movie

OPC Off

Backlight ; -13

Contrast ; +32

Brightness -6

Color +6

Tint 0

Sharpness ; -10


Advanced menu

Color temp Low

Black On

Fine Motion Off

Film Mode On

If I have the Fine Motion On, does that help with bad feeds that show alot of motion blur like the NBC Football Game Sunday Night?
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post #21 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dearsmiths View Post

If I have the Fine Motion On, does that help with bad feeds that show alot of motion blur like the NBC Football Game Sunday Night?

I am not sure that anything will help much with a bad signal like that, worth a try though. Weekend football is coming up.
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post #22 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 12:39 PM
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Question for all of you here.

Most of the sets that I have seen will put a note in the upper right of the screen that will show up when you change channel and tell you if the signal is 720/1080.

Is that possible with these sets? I have went though the menus and couldn't find anything like this and the manual is just short of worthless IMO.
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post #23 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TNG View Post

Question for all of you here.

Most of the sets that I have seen will put a note in the upper right of the screen that will show up when you change channel and tell you if the signal is 720/1080.

Is that possible with these sets? I have went though the menus and couldn't find anything like this and the manual is just short of worthless IMO.

Yes they do. However, I think this only kicks in when you're connected via HDMI - not sure about component.
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post #24 of 1141 Old 11-08-2006, 07:45 PM
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The CNET settings report very custom settings, but then it states that the picture mode os "movie mode". It was reported that once you changed settings it defaulted to "user mode" but that doesn't make any sense now that I think about it. Is "movie mode" (and the others) just a preset configuration of the advanced settings, but still allow you the option of configuring the basic settings like brightness/contrast/etc?

Jeff

*Edit*
I'd test this myself right now, but my brother-in-law is currently threatening to behead anyone that boots him off the XBOX 360 right now...even though it's *MY* TV...heh.

Just my 1.4 cents (after taxes)
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post #25 of 1141 Old 11-09-2006, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNG View Post

Question for all of you here.

Most of the sets that I have seen will put a note in the upper right of the screen that will show up when you change channel and tell you if the signal is 720/1080.

Is that possible with these sets? I have went though the menus and couldn't find anything like this and the manual is just short of worthless IMO.

my 52 inch does change, in fact, when I change a channel, and I wonder what it is, I touch input to see what I am receiving.

dearsmiths
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post #26 of 1141 Old 11-09-2006, 06:58 AM
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Current settings for HDMI connection from PC on 42
OPC - off
backlight -16
contrast +32
color -3
tint -3
sharp +2
color temp mid-high
back on
film mode on
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post #27 of 1141 Old 11-09-2006, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cb_ecc View Post

Current settings for HDMI connection from PC on 42
OPC - off
backlight -16
contrast +32
color -3
tint -3
sharp +2
color temp mid-high
back on
film mode on

I have similar settings on my 42" except for my backlighting is set to -6. What's your brightness set to? Are you running this through hdmi?
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post #28 of 1141 Old 11-09-2006, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlipJigs View Post

Yes they do. However, I think this only kicks in when you're connected via HDMI - not sure about component.

OK. That makes sense. At the moment my family room is in a state of transition and I have only the bare essentials hooked up. This will change when I finally get the time to get the electrical done for the wall mount.

On that note, will my standard color settings that I have set up need to change with a HDMI connection? I know that each input has its own set of settings, but on mine they are all pretty close from input to input. Will this change once I get a HDMI input? Is the connection that much better?
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post #29 of 1141 Old 11-09-2006, 08:11 AM
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Ok, I've had my set for a few days now and think I have it fairly dialed in for my three primary sources (Cable/DVD/XBOX360). First off, many thanks to Therese and the countless other posters who have provided invaluable information on tweaking this set. Without yal, I'd have been fumbling thru the manual pulling out what little hair I have left. I'll include my settings below with whatever notes I can think of below each one, if applicable.

First off, I recommend you set the AV mode of each input you plan to calibrate to "User" first (the presets are chosen with a button under the flip-up panel located at the bottom of the remote). I wouldn't use the pre-defined modes, like "Movie", as they are great for reference purposes (i.e. Joe Blow says random DVD looks great on the "Movie" setting...you can then give it a try). Obviously, if you need multiple configs for one input for different sources because you have a switcher, or you just want to have different configs for different ambient light settings, then go ahead and reconfigure one of the other presets, but I would start with the "User" one first.

I used DVE to dial my set into a baseline config. I don't recommend using discs like these as set-in-stone tools. Use them to give you something to start with (as the out-of-box settings are almost always atrocious, regardless of manufacturer), and then go from there to tailor it to your needs.

View Mode: Dot-by-dot for DVD/XBOX, Smart Stretch (4:3) and Stretch (HD) for Cable

I have a 1080 upconverting DVD player, so dot-by-dot made the most sense for me. As for cable, I use Smart Stretch for 4:3 content, and Stretch for HD content. I'm sure most use the dot-by-dot for HD content, but I couldn't get around the annoyance of the extra noise I would sometimes get on one side with 1080 content, and in some cases *both* sides, which makes it impossible to adjust out using the positional tool. I'm a set-it-and-forget-it viewer, so since I could discern no noticable visual difference between using dot-by-dot and using Stretch to expand it a few pixels, I left it on Stretch for HD content (I used a lot of HD source material I had on my DVR). As for Smart Stretch, it's everything people say it is. It makes 4:3 content almost look as if it's formatted for 16:9. Comparing it to Sony's "intelligent" stretching, I found their implementation to overly stretch the objects near the right/left edges of the screen. Sharp's implementation is noticably better in my opinion.

Note: This setting is changed using the button near the top/right of the remote.

Digital Noise Reduction: Off (All Sources)

I list this setting now because with the exception of View Mode and AV mode, all the other settings you really need to get at are contained in the Picture settings menu. As with most TV's, the DNR degraded the picture in my opinion. Your milage may vary, but I turned it off and haven't looked back.

Note: This option is hidden in the far right drop-down when you click "Menu" on the remote.


Advanced Settings:


I'm sure you're thinking, "Advanced Settings"? The reason I start there is because those settings can have an impact on the basic settings (brightness/contrast/etc), so quickly setting these options now can save you some extra calibration in the long run. Eventually you'll want to come back and double-check them against your roughly calibrated system, but odds are, most settings will remain where you set them the first time through. You can find the Advanced Settings listed as a sub-menu under the Picture Settings (found by pressing "Menu" on the remote).

Color Temp.: Middle (All Sources)

I originally started off with "High" to help offset some of the red push I noticed. I did this to avoid having to overly gimp the color setting, however, extended staring at a white screen (which probably causes cancer) between the various temperatures showed me a noticable bluish tone in the pure white I wasn't happy with at that setting. As a result, I decided to set it to "Middle" and fix the red push elsewhere.

Black Enhancer: On (All sources)

Generally, I'm against most processing "features" that TV manufacturers add in. Sony is notorious for giving useless features that are better served being off...I should know...I went through two 46" XBR2's before I finally gave up and decided on the Sharp 52". However, I think this is actually a benefit in my opinion as it adds contrast without crushing the whites in the process.

Fine Motion: Off

Doesn't seem to help at all. Since I suspect it enhances response time at the expense of contrast and backlight, I chose to disable this. This setting may get some use on the XBOX as I play with it some more...although Need For Speed: Carbon looks FANTASTIC at my current settings with this disabled.


Regular Picture Settings:


OPC: Off (All Sources)

Set this to off...always. Don't give it a second thought. I wish I could take Sony's ambient light detector (found in it's XBR) and carry it over and put it in my Sharp because it worked *wonderfully*. Unfortunately, I have no praises to sing about Sharp's implementation. It's just...awful, at least in my viewing area (moderate to low ambient light, depending on time of day). You can define the OPC range in the advanced menu, but it always felt like it cranked my backlight down to it's lowest setting regardless of ambient light. This is great if you like great blacks, but bad if you want the shadow detail.

Backlight: -8 for DVD, -6 for Cable/XBOX

Backlight is a toughie because you really want to get this pretty close to where you want it *first*, and then dial in the rest of the settings using calibration and your eye. I found the best way to do this was to run thru a quick calibration using DVE, put in Batman Begins (preferably with a small amount of ambient light in the room) and check out the dark scenes. Play with the backlight/brightness until the pure black areas have a tone you're happy with (if they look dark to light grey, keep dialing it down). Once you have a tone you're happy with, move on (for now). Personally, I liked my DVD player with a slightly lower backlight then my other sources. Perhaps this is because I'm much more conscious of it since there's usually some bars above/below the content on 2.35 material. I compensate for this with a slight increase to brightness below.

Contrast: +30 (All Sources)

Ironically, even though people have been going on and on about red push, I found this setting the hardest to dial-in. My experience with this TV is that it has a very strong tendency to crush whites. It took me a lot of tweaking with different sources to get it to where the whites looked really good. The best test is to find scenes that have dark foreground and a white area in the background. If it looks like the whites are "puffy", or just too white relative to the other material, keep toning it down. A lot of other folks report +32 as the sweet spot, but I found it to be just slightly lower. Once again, ymmv

Brightness: -4 for DVD, -6 for Cable/XBOX

This is another one of those settings that you will play with forever before you're totally content with where it's at. Striving for that perfect "black" without losing shadow detail is probably the most time-consuming part overall. Those settings represent my sweet spot for those sources. What I like to do is, after the backlight is set, calibrate the brightness using DVE as a starting point, and then load up some movies that have lots of shadow detail (once again, Batman Begins is great for this). Freeze the movie on an area that has shadows with detail as close to pure black as you can find. Then, get really close to your TV and adjust the brightness up a ton. If you see detail "popping" out of the black, then the brightness needs to come up a titch, if you don't and it just makes the areas brighter, then do this process in reverse (i.e. see if you can lower the brightness without losing detail). My opinion is that the DVE test pattern (assuming your backlight is dialed in) is very close to on-the-money. As mentioned above, I had to dial my brightness up a hair to compensate for the decreased backlight.

Color: -4 (All Sources)

This is going to be your primary tool for getting rid of the notorious "red push" everyone is talking about. If someone posts a straight-forward way to accomplish that via the service menu, I *may* give it a try. The reason I say this is because I had to pull my color setting outside of calibrated to negate the red push. Not horribly outside, but it's not bang-on, that's for sure.

Tint: 0 (All Sources)

By the time I got down to fine-tuning this setting, I was already so pleased with the color reproduction, I left it as-is. Since all of these settings affect each other in various ways, I chose not to tempt fate and risk throwing one of my other settings off (primarily color) just to have this bang-on with DVE.

Sharpness: 0 (All Sources)

This is an important setting. There is a cutoff for this setting where it's effects take a drastic change. This point is at -4. Once you hit that, a primary function of the sharpness tool is disabled (or drasticly lowered) as there is a very noticable dropoff in sharpness. Whether you are above or below this setting will largely depend, in my eyes, on your viewing distance. I sit about 10ft away from my TV, and while going -4 or below softened up the SD picture a fair bit, it "fuzzied" my HD picture far too much for my liking. For this reason, I left it at it's default setting, which is what I found to be bang-on for my viewing. If you sit closer, you may want it at -4 or lower, especially if you watch any SD material.


Anyway, I think that covers everything. The most important thing to remember is that you'll do 90% of your calibration in the first hour, and the last 10% over the next 20 hours. Use tools like DVE to give you a starting point, and then dial it in with your eyes so it's the best picture to *you*. Find some source matieral and stick with it so you have a base of comparison when going between settings. Lastly, always remember that if you change a setting, go back and assess the other ones, even if you already dialed them in, because they all affect each other in subtle ways (and some in not-so subtle ways).

Overall, I'm very happy with the set and look forward to finally *watching* it instead of just calibrating it (as is my wife...heh). Good luck.

Jeff

*Edited for typos and grammatical anomolies

Just my 1.4 cents (after taxes)
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post #30 of 1141 Old 11-09-2006, 08:38 AM
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I have noticed that my set seems to attempt to adjust brightness itself, particularly when there is an abrupt change in the scene. OPC is off, but if OPC was on it is as if someone shines a light on the detector for ambient light and then puts their hand in front of it. The picture gets lighter and darker on its own. Most of the time it isn't noticable but with certain DVDs it is quite noticable. My son says it does it also on certain games.

After a scene change the picture will lighten or darken on its own.

Any ideas?
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