Ladies and Gentlemen -
I hereby present the "everything we know about the Sharp D42U/D43U series" thread!
Up to now there have been 15 or more threads opened on this series about particular issues or questions, and a couple long threads about particular models. This threads will serve to collect that info in one place.
The direct link to this post is:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10470627
This post is the result of me A) gathering all of the known info into one post, AND THEN B) keeping it up to date as various additional info comes in on this thread.
There is a dedicated thread for the Sharp LC-C3742U (sold at Costco): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=785366
I did not go through all 17-pages of that thread. There is a dedicated thread for the Sharp LC-32D42U: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=747082
I did not go through all 23 page of that thread.IF YOU ARE REPLYING TO THIS POST THEN PLEASE FIRST SEE COMMENTS AT BOTTOMGENERAL MODEL / SERIES INFO
Sharp model lines PDFhttp://www.sharpusa.com/files/tel_do..._Line_0107.pdf
Sharp in Jan 2007 (CES) originally announced 46", 42", 37", 32" and 26" models in the 43U line, but apparently only the 37" and 32" models actually came to market in volume. The 26" (26D43U) does exist and an owner has posted on the thread. Does anyone have the other models? They don't appear on the Sharp web site anymore. Ditto for the 20" and 16" models in the 42U line.
[D42U] is pretty much identical to the D40 series. The only major change was the switching out a S-Video input for VGA. One poster wrote that "the 40U had that outsourced panel from Thailand. The 43U panel is made by Sharp. I had briefly a 40U and it much worse viewing angles than the 43U."
One poster has it from a "senior Sharp executive that the D42U and D43U set are electronically identical; the only difference is cosmetic."
Sharp LCC3242U sold at Costco is probably the same as the LC-32D42U, except Costco model has matte black bezel instead of gloss black bezel, and Costco model has silver stand instead of gloss black stand.
About the glossy black bezel (aka "piano black") on the regular Sharp models ... don't let that throw you off this model line because you're afraid of reflections. The bezel is CURVED (convex), not flat, so it's NOT like a mirrow and reflections really aren't that noticeable. I watch in a room with poor light control (windows behind me) and I haven't been bothered by the glossy black.
One poster wrote: the d40 models smaller than 37" use an orion panel. the 41 was made specifically with a sharp panel as a replacement for the 40. one of the things i've read is that if the tv says, "assembled in thailand" then it's an orion panel, if it says "assembled in mexico", then it's a sharp panel.
Sharp manual PDFs are here:http://www.sharpusa.com/products/Typ...83,127,00.html
but don't show any of the 42U or 43U models! But Sharp Canada has them at:http://www.sharp.ca/manuals/
Scroll down to desired LC-nnDnnU model; downloaded file is a Windows executable BUT CAN be unzipped in Mac or Linux with your favorite unzip program.
sharpusa.com will get around to updating their site eventually, they're always slow ...CONSENSUS / SUMMARY OPINION
In general people are happy with this set. Blacks are great for LCD and approach plasma capabilities, SD looks good, tuner performance is good, most features you'd expect are there, etc.
It isn't pushing the envelope on LCD display technology (e.g. it doesn't have the most extreme contrast ratio), but that also seems to correlate to the fact that this forum is not clogged with people complaining about picture quality problems like in the 92U thread.
With this midrange set there are a few feature tradeoffs. You can't manually add digital channels, which is a problem for people who live between metro markets and turn their roof antennas. It can't zoom in on HD signals, a problem that is described further below. Channel changing is kind of slow. More minor problems described below.
But for everyone these have been minor complaints and, on balance, everyone seems happy enough with their set to keep it.INPUTS
VGA input: any problems with XBox 360? The 92U had some problems there due to Sharp error with the EDID response.
Component input(s?): any problems with particular signals?
HDMI inputs: we have one report that it does NOT accept 1080p signals. Ideally the set would accept the signal and scale it down, but 1080p HDMI capability is still pretty rare in displays so it's not surprising that this mid-range set doesn't do it. Need someone to confirm!
There are some problems with "dot for dot" (aka 1:1) mode on HDMI inputs, described below in the Zoom/ARC section.
No side or front inputs!
You can NOT rename the inputs to your own custom text, but you can change the input names to one of 15 predefined labels; go to the desired input, then Menu -> Setup -> Input Label .WALL MOUNTS
The Sharp 37D43U has a 200mm x 200m bolt pattern on the back.
Premier Mounts AM250: designed for 37-inch AND UP, this is slight overkill, but it provides for a very wide and tall mounting interface to the wall, which is good if you're concerned about spreading the load on your wall (i.e. you've got an old house and hitting old lathe and plaster instead of studs). Allows for TWO degrees of translational movement (no vertical translational movement) and 2 degrees of rotational movement (plus a tiny amount of roll leveling). Dual articulated arms. Excellent integration materials (e.g. every possible metric mounting screw) and good instructions; lacks printed template for drilling holes in wall. The part that attaches to the back of the display does not interfere with any of the cable connection points, although it does displace the little optional plastic cable control ring. Mount is very large but not visibile (barely) when viewing the display from the front.
If someone can provide a URL that describes the 6 degrees of freedom better than this Wikipedia page, please post to this thread:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_degrees_of_freedom
Other mounts that I considered are below. If you have one of these, give us your opinion of it with this set, including A) integration materials, B) instructions, C) whether it interferes with any cable connection mounts, and of course what kind of mobility it provides.
Peerless SP-850 -- uses 100mm x 200mm bolt pattern so requires adapter plate for use with this displaySOUND / VOLUME BEHAVIOR
In the opinion of this author, this set does not go loud enough. All of my previous sets went louder at the top end. High volume is useful when you want to just quickly turn it up loud while you (or your spouse, or whoever) briefly walk far from the TV to do something, but don't want to bother firing up the whole stupid stereo system.
The set does not remember the mute state through a power cycle. If you had it muted when you turned it off, it won't be muted when you turn it back on.
If the set is muted, turning the volume up OR DOWN will unmute it. Most TVs will NOT unmute if you have it muted and turn the volume down. This is desirable behavior because A) it gives you a fast way to turn it down, and B) after it's been muted a long time you may want to turn it up slowly (meaning turn it way down first) just in case the current environment calls for quieter sound (read: sleeping spouse).
Audio output -- rear terminals can be either fixed in volume, or variable per remote control, however in the latter case the TV's own speakers are turned off. This means it is impossible to have variable sound coming out of the TV speakers AND the rear audio jacks at the same time. This is a pain for people who have simple 2 channel home theater setups who like to use the TV speakers as the effective center channel.VARIOUS DIMMING BEHAVIORS
OPC = Optical Picture Correction -- detect brightness of room via sensor on front of TV and modifies brightness accordingly. Menu -> Picture -> OPC controls whether it is enabled, and note that you can have it enabled but NOT display the green leaves when it's changing. To change the RANGE over which it modifies the brightness, go to Menu -> Picture -> Advanced -> Range of OPC .
Black level expansion messes with the black level of the display. This can be disabled via Picture -> Advanced -> Black
Dynamic contrast (Sharp calls it "enhance picture contrast") quickly changes the brightness of the backlight to make dark scenes darker and bright screnes brighter. [C3742U:]page 37 of your manual. You will see that Standard, Dynamic, and Dynamic Fixed modes have "enhanced picture contrast" as "ON". User, PC, game, and movie are all "OFF".
With OPC off and browsing TV, the channels will start dim and slowly brighten every time you switch stations. Annoying self adjusting contrast with OPC OFF can be worked around by leaving OPC ON with narrow margin.
Quote from an owner: The dimming I was experiencing was between channels. I didn't realize there was a difference, as soon as I saw the dimming between channels I turned the OPC On. Bottom line, by turning OPC On and setting it to a minimal range, and using User/Movie modes, I don't see dimming at any time.LAG (DISPLAY DELAY FOR GAMERS)
Opinions conflict on the issue of lag (i.e. for gaming). Note that "lag" (e.g. 100's of milliseconds) is not the same as "response time" (6ms frame-to-frame refresh rate). Some see no lag, some do see lag of about 1/10 sec (100 ms). Some have even said that he had on one specific game (which doesn't make much sense). A third person later mentioned that there is lag playing Wii through composite cables, and another noted that the lag seemed to go away through component (on 480p); perhaps the deinterlace circuit introduces an excessive lag (more than the expected single frame required to get do the deinterlace). It could be that the TV introduces lag when converting from certain analog inputs, so it would be good to see some testing with exactly the same hardware and software but with different inputs in use. Since video settings are tied to inputs, it's possible that a particular setting on the Sharp is aggravating lag.ZOOM / ARC BEHAVIOR
The set will zoom SD content, regardless of input.The set will NOT zoom HD content.
This is true regardless of input -- HD content via OTA ATSC or HDMI can not be zoomed.
Why would I want to zoom HD? Imagine that I was watching a 16:9 SD show via the digital ATSC tuner, that is playing the 16:9 content letterboxed within the 4:3 SD. You can ONLY change the view mode if the station is actually transmitting as digital SD. If they happen to be transmitting the SD upconverted to an HD signal, you are stuck with watching the 16:9 content, letterboxed within the 4:3 SD frame, sidebarred WITHIN the 16:9 panel limits! Wide black bars on all four sides! In the opinion of this post's author, this is the biggest problem of this model.
There are certainly TVs that can do this zoom, it's just that as of late 2006 / early 2007, it's an esoteric feature. See this separate thread that I opened to discuss it: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851136
If watching SD analog NTSC or S-video source, and probably composite video source, if you do the above zooming, you'll find that the top and bottom of the 16:9 letterboxed content is cropped out. I've measured it and would say it's about 2-3% at the top and bottom EACH, which may not sound like much, until you watch something with subtitles or a crawl in that 16:9 frame, and then you definitely notice it. With just regular video in that 16:9 frame it's barely good enough to watch. The very tops of heads are often cropped out.
If watching a component analog source, like from a progressive DVD player, there is no such cropping. It's perfect.
There is a dot-for-dot (aka 1:1) mode that works well for the PC input (VGA / DDB15). Dot-for-dot also works for HDMI inputs but only for some resolutions. The reports are that it works for 1360x768 from a PC via DVI to HDMI adapter, however it does NOT work at 1280x720 (720p) or 1920x1080 (1080i). It certainly does not work at 1080p since the set does not accept that mode via HDMI at all.PROBLEMS / OTHER
Can't zoom HD signals as described above.
Switching from an analog/NTSC channel to an analog/NTSC channel takes 1 second.
Switching from an analog/NTSC channel to a digital/ATSC channel takes 3 seconds.
One can NOT quickly change channels, because it needs to lock on each one before moving on to the next one. It won't "buffer" channel change commands so ... you ... have ... to ... wait ... and ... press ... each ... time.
You can not manually add a digital channel! You have to repeat the full channel scan and hope that you hit ALL of your OTA ATSC channels. Ideally you'd be able to manually add as needed until the channel lineup was complete in the set, and THEN you'd adjust your antenna until they all came in. Also, some people are between two markets (e.g. San Franscisco and Sacremento) and aim their motorized antenna at the market they want to watch. In their case, the one-time scan and inability to manually add a channel is a severe problem.
The TV remembers the channels separately for the ATSC (air) and QAM (cable) tuners. So if you have both running into your set via an A-B coax switch, when you change the RF mode on the menu it'll go to the memorized channel plan for that RF mode.
One user measured some incoming ATSC signals with a spectrum analyzer with levels of -118 dBm and -116 dBm on two different distant stations, and the former was right on the edge of producing pictures. It seems that the threshold for the TV is a signal meter reading of 30, or about -120 dBm. At least he never saw a signal reading below 30, it would just drop to 0 as it lost the signal. We believe that typical good receivers have thresholds in the -130 dBm to -120 dBm range.
The general consensus is that the tuner performance is good enough. Some have seen slightly better, but once you get your antenna pointed right it seems to work just about as well as any other 2006-or-earlier tuner.
When fast-forwarding a videotape (VCR connected to composite input), the TV loses sync to the video and goes to black. I have to go back to playing at normal speed to see where I am in the tape. This stinks for fast-forwarding past commercials
I'm hoping there's an advanced setting somewhere that I'll be able to tweak to get it to hold lock on the FF signal from the VCR. We watch a particular Show Daily (hint) and I really don't want to watch the ads for erection and fat loss pills over and over. Also, after the FF and going back to regular playback, the display can get stuck with jerky video and stuttering audio; pausing the videotape momentarily and then continuing playback seems to fix it.
Audio output / volume behavior described above.
An incompatibility between D43U TVs and the PlayStation3 causes TV flickering when the PS3 is both connected to the TV via HDMI, and connected to receiver using the digital optical out (& PS3 set to use digital optical out). The solution is to NOT use the digital optical out from the PS3. Instead, wire the system as PS3 to TV via HDMI, TV to receiver via Digital Optical Out. The TV will correctly bypass a Dolby Digital signal (even though it can't play it) from the PS3 through the TV, to the receiver. More info here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=15314436
Harmony remote controls: works with this set, except for some problems mapping the input selection buttons. Search thread for "Harmony" for more info.
Menu -> Option -> Program Title Display -- only works with digital/ATSC channels; does NOT display format of DTV signal (720p/1080i) even if tuned to an HD program
no direct 1:1 pixel mapping for HDMI; it can do it for PC input, but not for the most common resolutions in HDMI
Menu -> Digital Setup -> Identification -- provides a mysterious 8-character code, like U0612345. What is this?
Image compensation: Fast vs Slow -- what is this actually doing? Accessed via Menu -> Picture -> Advanced -> I/P setting . It says it only works with 480i (rules out 480p, 720p and 1080i) so is this some sort of SD deinterlace feature?
Film mode: if it's on, does this mean that it will do 3:2 pulldown if it detects it, and off means that it will never do 3:2 pulldown no matter what?
Comment from thread: "Many of you, as I did, posted that the Film Mode was grayed out (as well as a couple of other selections) in the advanced menu. Turns out, you cannot adjust those settings when a signal is being fed into it. The solution? Turn off your cable box, blu-ray player, game system, etc, and THEN go to that input, and voila, you will be able to adjust those settings."
Are these advanced settings (or all Picture settings?) tied to particular input? So that when you change it, it's only being changed for that input?
Clicking / clapping sound problems:
[32D42U:] Something that has just started though is a clicking/tapping sound ever so often when you first turn the TV on. It'll happen starting at 20-30 seconds apart then gradually there will be more time between the taps and then it goes away. Not sure what it is. It's coming from the top right of the LCD and seems to stop after 15 or so minutes. Maybe it's just warming up?http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=754562
Has this been seen with any 43U units or just 42U?
Power supply problem:
The TV should take no more than 9 seconds to show a picture after turning on the power. One poster had a defective power supply or something and it took up to 90 seconds before showing a picture after pressing Power.
PC has to be set at a fixed 1360X768 (right click desktop>my properties>settings).Then when you get an image center it using the auto synch on the TV. If you let your videocard "detect" a HDTV it may be outputting at 720p
(1280X720),then the TV is scaling the image to fill the screen resulting in a slightly blurred image
There is no ability to access and navigate the menu via the buttons on the top of the display itself; you must use the remote. If you lose the remote, or it breaks, you're screwed. A typical universal remote won't do some of the "weird" functions like "AV Mode". If you get a learning remote then you can program it to do everything, but of course then you need the original remote working in order to program the learning remote.
Can someone provide experience with the Logitech Harmony line and this set?
[37D43U:] The only time i cant get into all the features in the advance settings is when im using HDMI. If i use any other connection it works fine. It's pretty strange that i cant use everything in the advanced menu? My brother has the 62U model and he get all the menus in advance while using HDMI
Remember the only way to change AV modes and turn Dynamic Mode off is by a button inside a hidden door on the remote
an owner's review after 1.5 months:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10372210FIRMWARE LEVELS AND SERVICE MENU ACCESS
Sharp Aquos serial numbers tell you when the TV was made -- the first three digits are YMM, so a 612xxxxxx set was built in Dec 2006. Keep an eye out for 704, 705, etc and if you get a newer unit, check the firmware level! Note that this date refers to when the entire display was assembled (in Baja Mexico), not when the LCD panel was manufactured (in Japan)
service menu screenshots from a 92U model posted herehttp://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post9675106http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=74584
For example, a typical 703xxxxxx 43U would have:
MAIN Version = 1.14 (U 2006/12/14 1 A)
BOOT Version = CFE-D42U 1.00
Monitor version = 1.01
Watch for other firmware versions!
Update Feb 2011: here is a post that explains how to apply a firmware update:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19901372
How to enter service menu (same as D62U and D92U):
* unplug TV from the wall.
* HOLD both input button and volume down button (on the top of the TV - not on the remote)
* plug TV back in; within about 5 seconds, the set will power up (without pressing the "on" button); keep holding the input and volume down buttons until a small "K" appears in a box on the left side of the screen
* release the two buttons and then simultaneously press the "Channel Down" and "Vol Down" buttons down at the same time (on the top of the TV - not on the remote)
* You will now see the first of 26 (!) pages of service menu info! Use the up and down arrow keys on the remote to navigate to the other pages. Pages numbers and names are in the upper left corner.
* once the service menu is displayed on the screen, you can get the screen to display different levels of solid grey by pressing the number keys on your remote. i.e. press "1" to get a relatively dark grey, 2 for a lighter grey, and so on up to 6 which is a bright white screen; keys 7, 8, and 9 don't appear to do anything. Press any number a second time to return to the service menu.
* do not change any settings in the Service Menu !!!
* the service menu will stay up as long as you want (it won't time out); to exit the Service Menu, turn off the TV.
TO PRINT JOURNALISTS AND REVIEW WRITERS:
If you find this collated information useful in preparing your article about the D43U series or your review of a specific model, I would appreciate a credit in your article, something like "thanks to user Chris Campbell at the internet site AVSforum for ...".
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