Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post. - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wallst32 View Post

Just curious, was the tech able to complete the swap while the TV was standing upright the whole time, or did they have to lay it down?

Yup, the TV stays upright. They DO NOT lay the TV down. They unscrew the back (about 10 screws?), lift off the back, then unscrew/unplug the main board and swap it - then reverse the rest of the process.
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post #812 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by komari View Post

Some of us who have been on the LN-T thread since the very beginning have seen some great SD shots already. I was also concerned about this and lankobean posted a lot of shots on his 5265F which helped settle my concerns.

Lankobean took some GREAT pictures, but you can clearly see the glare in his daytime photos ... I wonder if it's bugging the hell out of him too.
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post #813 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by method404 View Post

Lankobean took some GREAT pictures, but you can clearly see the glare in his daytime photos ... I wonder if it's bugging the hell out of him too.

The Wii shots look really good, very vivid.

4665 (1024/1008)
SA8300
HTPC via HDMI
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post #814 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by texaspumpkinhead View Post

I am posting this to add to the collective information on the green/pink flash issue, and to make public an email discussion I have been having with WilliamG.

GOING FORWARD: I will monitor my situation to see if I get the flashes anymore...I should know in 24hrs from now. I will post again here at the latest tomorrow afternoon after I get home from work. For the community, we are accurate when describing FW version, but are probably not accurate when noting the second line in the info from the menu as the board version. I am not positive of this...one way to check would be for someone that has 1005 or 1008 down there in the second line of the menu info to open their TV, and check the letter at the end of the part number for their main board. If your letter is something way later in the alphabet than F, then somehow I may have actually recieved an old service stock board even though he said it showed up last week. I have no idea what that second line stands for, but my guess it is something to do with the FW, or maybe another component like the tuner, or something else...not sure. Either that number at the bottom (1005) is linked to the fix and I didnt get it, or it isn't and I will be fixed. I guess I will know in 24hrs. Obviously my main drive is to get my TV perfect, but also to try to help others. Maybe in the end the only real fix is a new FW coming in a month or two. I hope this long post was helpful.

Just to add to your observations - I too was told that the second line on the info screen is not the board version but something to do with software. It happened when I set up my service call and tried to ask which board version they had from Samsung. However, I still think the second line is reading something from the board, which is what the first line is also doing to display the FW version in the first line.

Perhaps your service center has not received the latest boards from Samsung. Where do you live? I know some folks in the NY area with board replacements which "results in seeing" 1008 in the 2nd line. Whatever the case the combinations which seem to work so far are 1024/1005 or 1024/1008 - I think 1022/1005 still gave someone HDMI issue?
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post #815 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by method404 View Post

Lankobean took some GREAT pictures, but you can clearly see the glare in his daytime photos ... I wonder if it's bugging the hell out of him too.

I don't think so - my communications with him earlier indicated that he's totally satisfied with his set. In fact his friend also went out and got one of the new Sammys

By the way, there are a lot more pictures of these sets in the first thread - see plastikpyro review/pics for example.
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post #816 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by axmode View Post

Wait till tomorrow and I will post a few at some point.

thanks axmode

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post #817 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by komari View Post

Some of us who have been on the LN-T thread since the very beginning have seen some great SD shots already. I was also concerned about this and lankobean posted a lot of shots on his 5265F which helped settle my concerns. I have the exact same STB set up as his - SA8300 feeding native resolutions (480p/720p/1080i). These sets don't accept 480i over HDMI so have to disable that in the STB setup, then STB upconverts SD channels to 480p. I tried letting the STB do all the converting to 1080i, but don't think the scaller/deinterlacer is better than on the TV since the results were horrible.

I have not had a chance to really sit and take pictures since getting my set (4061F), but will try soon and also post settings. We all know that these sets can do HD superbly, but SD is nowhere as bad as I had been led to believe. In fact, on some channels it is better than on my old CRT TV.

Great pics, but I didnt see an standard def (or were not marked anyway). You say the set does not accept 480i, hmmmmm, then I would assume my Directv HD DVR must have to upgrade it to 480p before the set takes over. I am not sure if it does that. It does have boxes to check, but I have never unchecked the 480i, so I am not sure if it would still play SD if I did that. I will have to check that out this weekend (on the road right now).

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post #818 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 05:42 PM
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Perhaps your service center has not received the latest boards from Samsung. Where do you live? I know some folks in the NY area with board replacements which "results in seeing" 1008 in the 2nd line. Whatever the case the combinations which seem to work so far are 1024/1005 or 1024/1008 - I think 1022/1005 still gave someone HDMI issue?[/quote]


Strange. I have a 1009/1004 tv with no dropouts or flashes with it.
Just lucky? I use HDMI inputs 1/2 for PS3 and Direct TV HD respectively.

Doug
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post #819 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

thanks axmode

Studdad,

I am sorry as today was very time restrictive for taking photos. I will try to do that in the next few days.

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #820 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 06:34 PM
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I"m getting a run-around from Samsung.

The first time I called today, after describing my pink/green flash and dropout problems, Tier 1 told me Tier 2 had a solution for me without an on-site visit. I was elated: "Wow there is a firmware fix!". My enthusiasm quickly waned after I was transferred to Tier 2, an a*hole rudely told me it was completely untrue; there was no fix. He had the audacity to tell me to get the TV repaired by calling the store from which I bought it. I was like, WTF, isn't Samsung providing warranty for the first year? Naturally, our discussion didn't even progress far enough to cover my problems.

Not willing to give up, I called agin. This time, another Tier 2 tech took my problem descriptions, and would only tell me they are aware of the problem, and were trying to collect as much data as possible from customers. There was no offer of getting a tech to my home to fix the problem.

OK, enough ranting. What does one have to do to get a tech out to swap the main board?
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post #821 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gazebo View Post

I"m getting a run-around from Samsung.

The first time I called today, after describing my pink/green flash and dropout problems, Tier 1 told me Tier 2 had a solution for me without an on-site visit. I was elated: "Wow there is a firmware fix!". My enthusiasm quickly waned after I was transferred to Tier 2, an a*hole rudely told me it was completely untrue; there was no fix. He had the audacity to tell me to get the TV repaired by calling the store from which I bought it. I was like, WTF, isn't Samsung providing warranty for the first year? Naturally, our discussion didn't even progress far enough to cover my problems.

Not willing to give up, I called agin. This time, another Tier 2 tech took my problem descriptions, and would only tell me they are aware of the problem, and were trying to collect as much data as possible from customers. There was no offer of getting a tech to my home to fix the problem.

OK, enough ranting. What does one have to do to get a tech out to swap the main board?

From following the forums and from my own experience please do not be hasty in trying to get the board replaced. This may not be the "fix" concerning the HDMI HDCP handshaking issue...

I would rather wait on a software fix which should fix it as Handshaking is a software problem and not hardware from my understanding.

I would wait a bit before taking such drastic measures. that may or may not fix the issue. not enough people have had the board replaced to make the conclusion that this will fix the issue or not.
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post #822 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Great pics, but I didnt see an standard def (or were not marked anyway). You say the set does not accept 480i, hmmmmm, then I would assume my Directv HD DVR must have to upgrade it to 480p before the set takes over. I am not sure if it does that. It does have boxes to check, but I have never unchecked the 480i, so I am not sure if it would still play SD if I did that. I will have to check that out this weekend (on the road right now).

Studdad,

I viewed these photos and the ones from the Food Network are in SD, as F.N. does not yet broadcast in HD. Also, some of the ESPN screens look like 4:3 HD. I would sum up the photos to be very accurate for the purpose of differentiation between SD & HD on LN-T4556F models.

These units do not accept 480i (The Aquos did) and in fact, on the D*TV technical boards, I read one tech suggestion to set the receiver to 720P and 1080i selection options. I have tried it with 480P and I did not like the image as much.

FWIW, I have never had any HDMI handshake issues in the past two days on HDMI1 & HDMI2 ports If you remember, my set is a 3/07 built with 1004 FW & 1016 MCB). I noticed one drop out when I had my PC connected to HDMI3 and it seemed to be less than a second or so. I will be getting a replacement TV as it was part of my original deal with the vendor, but I neither think that all older ones (March built) have rampant HDMI handshaking issues nor I am convinced that the newer (April-May) ones will not.

FYI, I use Belkin PureAV HDMI wires (much debate has been put forward for and against using the more expensive HDMI cables) and I also use the Belkin PureAV power filtration and surge protectors on all my HDTVs (I bought them at Sams Club for around $70-$80).

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #823 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Takioni View Post

From following the forums and from my own experience please do not be hasty in trying to get the board replaced. This may not be the "fix" concerning the HDMI HDCP handshaking issue...

I would rather wait on a software fix which should fix it as Handshaking is a software problem and not hardware from my understanding.

I would wait a bit before taking such drastic measures. that may or may not fix the issue. not enough people have had the board replaced to make the conclusion that this will fix the issue or not
.

I absolutely concur with this poster and his opinion. Unfortunately I had the same knee jerk reaction when I found out that my (the one which I bought last year) Samsung LN-S4096D had a new FW update to resolve overscan by adding a justscan feature.

The tech who came was a total buffoon who messed me up for almost 3 weeks and killed my main board twice. Currently I am going through a whole process with Samsung on that issue. Bottomline: I prefer not to have the TV opened up by some of these sub-contract techs, if I can avoid that route.

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #824 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by axmode View Post

Studdad,

I am sorry as today was very time restrictive for taking photos. I will try to do that in the next few days.

No Prob

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post #825 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by axmode View Post

Studdad,

I viewed these photos and the ones from the Food Network are in SD, as F.N. does not yet broadcast in HD. Also, some of the ESPN screens look like 4:3 HD. I would sum up the photos to be very accurate for the purpose of differentiation between SD & HD on LN-T4556F models.

These units do not accept 480i (The Aquos did) and in fact, on the D*TV technical boards, I read one tech suggestion to set the receiver to 720P and 1080i selection options. I have tried it with 480P and I did not like the image as much.

FWIW, I have never had any HDMI handshake issues in the past two days on HDMI1 & HDMI2 ports If you remember, my set is a 3/07 built with 1004 FW & 1016 MCB). I noticed one drop out when I had my PC connected to HDMI3 and it seemed to be less than a second or so. I will be getting a replacement TV as it was part of my original deal with the vendor, but I neither think that all older ones (March built) have rampant HDMI handshaking issues nor I am convinced that the newer (April-May) ones will not.

FYI, I use Belkin PureAV HDMI wires (much debate has been put forward for and against using the more expensive HDMI cables) and I also use the Belkin PureAV power filtration and surge protectors on all my HDTVs (I bought them at Sams Club for around $70-$80).

Axmode:

Did you try setting your receiver to 720p and 1080i and then look at the SD content? If so, was it better than 480p for SD content?

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post #826 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 07:06 PM
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Axmode, lol, you must have had it at 720p and 1080i to begin with,,,,,just realized that. Then you switched to 480p and did not like as much. Is that correct? So on 720p and 1080i your picture was similar to the Food Network and ESPN SD you mentioned above?

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post #827 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Axmode, lol, you must have had it at 720p and 1080i to begin with,,,,,just realized that. Then you switched to 480p and did not like as much. Is that correct? So on 720p and 1080i your picture was similar to the Food Network and ESPN SD you mentioned above?

Yes, I was noticing more noise when set at 480P. The images from the FN are accurate, although I do not watch that channel (I guess that is a good channel good to gauge for colors and such comparisons).

The glare on the 4665F exists but it does not bother me so much, as I had it far worse on my old Sony Trinitron, but as compared to the Sammy 4096 (or the Sharp Aquos 82U), the glare can be distracting and annoying (to some).

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #828 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by abracapokey View Post

I've got the 4061, but my Yamaha HTR-5990 gives 5.1 sound coming from the TV's optical connection for OTA HD broadcasts. Golden.


abracapokey, thanks for the response. Do you have anything connected via HDMI to your 4061? If you switch to the HDMI input on your 4061 and send the signal to your Yamaha, do you get 5.1 sound?
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post #829 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 07:16 PM
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Axmode, ty very much. That helps a lot. When looking at those pics, they don't look bad at all. In fact, they may be as good as my current tube. I have a flatscreen 36' Sony HD tube right now, and it has glare, but it doesnt bother me that much...we just make sure all lights that sit directly in front of the viewing screen are turned off when watching tv at night. We do have windows, but are on the adjacent walls, and don't seem to have too much effect on viewing during the day.

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post #830 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Axmode, ty very much. That helps a lot. When looking at those pics, they don't look bad at all. In fact, they may be as good as my current tube. I have a flatscreen 36' Sony HD tube right now, and it has glare, but it doesnt bother me that much...we just make sure all lights that sit directly in front of the viewing screen are turned off when watching tv at night. We do have windows, but are on the adjacent walls, and don't seem to have too much effect on viewing during the day.

Please bear in mind that I watch almost no TV during the day, unless it is Sunday and the NFL season. We have a well lit living room with two large windows and a large door leading to the patio, plus we are in the sunny Southern CA. One thing that I absolutely guarantee to you is this: The Sammy has a definite edge over the Aquos when it comes to the SD quality. The SD on this Sammy is almost as good as the one on my CRT Sony, but the Sony is better than my Sammy 4096 (with the matte display). In my honest assessment, even the 4096 has a better SD image than my returned Sharps.

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #831 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:01 PM
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[quote=texaspumpkinhead]Standing up...if your guy tries to lay it down, throw a fit becasue it can cause clouding in the panel.


I gotta believe you guys know more than I do about this clouding deal, however when I removed the swivel stand on my 4661 - in order to attach the wall mount mount bracket, I laid it face down on a table per the instruction manual. The set is on the wall - no probs. I didn't have any clouds before, and I don't have any now. Guess I'm lucky...
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post #832 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Topsy View Post

1) The scanline I had on the Xbox 360 dash is gone now
2) The PS3 in 1080P on HDMI 3 is still flickering/jumping/blanking etc (no change from previous board).

It's important to note that my PS3 only screws up in 1080p and only on HDMI 3. HDMI 1 or 2 are fine except for the VERY occasional green flash. It also seems to take about 10 minutes from when you turn on the PS3 and the TV, till the screen starts to jump around etc. The TV seems to have to warm up somehow before it goes crazy. We waited it out (the technician and I) and sure enough it started to do it even with the new board on HDMI 3.

Sounds like whoever they bought their hdmi 1.3 jacks from or the first batch of them they made were faulty, As if the main board which includes jacks 1 and 2 are now working fine after the replacement and the side sub board with the hdmi jack 3 is still faulty, then it would only make sense that it has nothing to do with software at all, and its the jacks themselves that are in fact cutting out.

Can anyone who has had a replaced board that now is working try the hdmi 3 jack and see if the problem apears?

if so it is in fact the jacks themselves and has nothing to do with the software, unless of course its the hardware circuitry itself which was fixed in the newer revisions, but either way that has nothing to do with firmware.
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post #833 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:15 PM
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[quote=SteveL4446]
Quote:
Originally Posted by texaspumpkinhead View Post

Standing up...if your guy tries to lay it down, throw a fit becasue it can cause clouding in the panel.


I gotta believe you guys know more than I do about this clouding deal, however when I removed the swivel stand on my 4661 - in order to attach the wall mount mount bracket, I laid it face down on a table per the instruction manual. The set is on the wall - no probs. I didn't have any clouds before, and I don't have any now. Guess I'm lucky...

I do not own a truck and I have picked up quite a few LCD TVs in my mid size SUV, where I do not have enough head room for a stand up box (46" TV) cargo. I have always laid the box flat with the screen side up. Also, when my other Sammy was having its repair done, it had to be laid down on its face a couple of times.

My pick up/return trips were no longer than 15 miles and the whole process of laying down the TV did not take more than 5 minutes. In neither case, there was never any problem or issues with mura/clouding. IMO, it is good to be cautiuos but some people are extra ordinarily paranoid.

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #834 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:20 PM
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The only way to truly answer that is to have someone with a "1005" or "1008" in the second line tell me what the letter is at the end of the board part number. Mine is F and my number still says "1004". The guy said he got that board late last week, and I don't really see a reason for him to lie. I really want someone with the 1005 or 1008 to give me their part revision letter.

Perhaps your service center has not received the latest boards from Samsung. Where do you live? I know some folks in the NY area with board replacements which "results in seeing" 1008 in the 2nd line. Whatever the case the combinations which seem to work so far are 1024/1005 or 1024/1008 - I think 1022/1005 still gave someone HDMI issue?[/quote]
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post #835 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:21 PM
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One other tip for those who are worried about "motion blur" and pixelation issues:

Go to www.TVBlink.com and burn a copy of their test DVD. It is a great and free reference source to gauge your sets, versus all the awful artifacts which you see (and think of as motion blur), when you view these sets at the stores.

I got hold of this program when I was testing my returned Sharp 82U units and this DVD was a tremendous help for me to finally settle on Samsung versus the Aquos models.

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #836 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:23 PM
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You have to have it laying on its face for a while, but like anything else there is no threshold where it will just happen every time.

[quote=SteveL4446]
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Originally Posted by texaspumpkinhead View Post

Standing up...if your guy tries to lay it down, throw a fit becasue it can cause clouding in the panel.


I gotta believe you guys know more than I do about this clouding deal, however when I removed the swivel stand on my 4661 - in order to attach the wall mount mount bracket, I laid it face down on a table per the instruction manual. The set is on the wall - no probs. I didn't have any clouds before, and I don't have any now. Guess I'm lucky...

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post #837 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by texaspumpkinhead View Post

The only way to truly answer that is to have someone with a "1005" or "1008" in the second line tell me what the letter is at the end of the board part number. Mine is F and my number still says "1004". The guy said he got that board late last week, and I don't really see a reason for him to lie. I really want someone with the 1005 or 1008 to give me their part revision letter.

Perhaps your service center has not received the latest boards from Samsung. Where do you live? I know some folks in the NY area with board replacements which "results in seeing" 1008 in the 2nd line. Whatever the case the combinations which seem to work so far are 1024/1005 or 1024/1008 - I think 1022/1005 still gave someone HDMI issue?

[/quote]

I had a main board replaced on my other Sammy (4096) a couple of weeks ago, when the inept tech totally messed up my main board. The suffix letter at the end of that board's S/N was also an F . I was told by a person in-the-know that the board was their latest main board.

Although we are talking about different boards for different models, the ones with suffix F seem to be the latest versions of the PCB.

Samsung: 52" 850 / 46" 61 / 40" 61 / PS3 / BD-P1500 / A3 HD-DVD / Format Neutral
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post #838 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:37 PM
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um...this may sound ridiculous and drawn out, but...

has anyone tried routing their hdmi cable into a dvi adapter and then re-routing it to a dvi to hdmi adapter?

cause some people who have westinghouse flat panels were advised to swtich to a hdmi to dvi adapter to help with the handshaking issues.

Since the LNT4665 has no dvi input, this is how I came up with this wacky idea.

One day without HD is one day too long
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post #839 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 08:58 PM
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Norse! Is there any chance you could do us a favor and plug your PS3 or Elite into HDMI 3 (preferably PS3, but can't member if you have one or not) and try it @ 1080p output? With my HDMI 3 port, I have to leave the PS3 on for about 10 minutes and then it will start to jump and progressively get worse @ 1080p on HDMI 3. You have the same TV (4665F) as me and I still am having problems after the main board swap...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpinho View Post

Sounds like whoever they bought their hdmi 1.3 jacks from or the first batch of them they made were faulty, As if the main board which includes jacks 1 and 2 are now working fine after the replacement and the side sub board with the hdmi jack 3 is still faulty, then it would only make sense that it has nothing to do with software at all, and its the jacks themselves that are in fact cutting out.

Can anyone who has had a replaced board that now is working try the hdmi 3 jack and see if the problem apears?

if so it is in fact the jacks themselves and has nothing to do with the software, unless of course its the hardware circuitry itself which was fixed in the newer revisions, but either way that has nothing to do with firmware.

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post #840 of 19630 Old 05-23-2007, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topsy View Post

2) The PS3 in 1080P on HDMI 3 is still flickering/jumping/blanking etc (no change from previous board).

It's important to note that my PS3 only screws up in 1080p and only on HDMI 3. HDMI 1 or 2 are fine except for the VERY occasional green flash. It also seems to take about 10 minutes from when you turn on the PS3 and the TV, till the screen starts to jump around etc. The TV seems to have to warm up somehow before it goes crazy. We waited it out (the technician and I) and sure enough it started to do it even with the new board on HDMI 3.

The technician's solution - use HDMI 1 or 2 for PS3 or drop the PS3's output resolution to 1080i.

Just so you know, I had the EXACT same problem with the Oppo981. In the process of trying different things, I changed the hdmi cable, and the jumping around stopped. I still have the Oppo981 on HDMI3, and have been using it for several weeks now, and the jumping has stopped.

There was no jumping with the same cable on HDMI1 and HDMI2.

Something just seemed more sensitive on HDMI3, and a new cable seems to have fixed it.

I hope it works for you as well. (I just swapped cables with a different HDMI device.)

(Also, maybe in the process of switching cables around, the hdmi connector wiggled a bit or something. I was one of the first people to buy the 4661, so I may have the "faulty ports".)
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