Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post. - Page 652 - AVS Forum
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LCD Flat Panel Displays > Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post.
stanltod's Avatar stanltod 03:49 PM 02-27-2012
I have an elusive problem with my 4665. It powers on fine and the screen comes on. However, when it first comes on there is a ghosting of the image, especially across the upper half. For instance, the HDMI label shows where it should in the upper left corner and then a stretched out ghost image of that same label appears offset down a bit. After about 20-30 minutes the picture clears up so it seems that something is heating up enough to warm up and make proper contact. I also found that I can cause it to be "fixed" if I slightly flex the entire TV, especially with the back cover off when it will flex and twist more easily. I just don't know which board or connector would cause the ghosting effect. I don't know if it is something in the panel itself, a connector, a wire, a board, etc. Also, it does it with two different power supply boards and two different sus boards. The backlights work perfectly. If anyone has thoughts on where I might start it would be must appreciated. What the heck would tell the panel to display that image in a different place than it is suppose to be displayed and about 4 times stretched vertically but then clear up with time/heat/expansion? Thanks.

mark_j's Avatar mark_j 04:11 PM 02-27-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by trainman View Post

The settlement will only cover you if your TV is actually displaying symptoms of the issue -- but it will apply if you develop the issue for 18 months after March 2 (so you'd be covered up until the beginning of September 2013).

I guess the settlement basically "codifies" what Samsung has been doing for some people anyway; I know some people have reported in this thread that Samsung replaced their capacitors for free even before this class-action settlement came out. (They did that for me, although I didn't report in this thread.)

Thanks for clearing it up -- good to know that I'm covered until then, no point on doing anything now then it sounds like.

I did have my mainboard swapped out a few years ago due to the HDMI handshake issue so I wonder if that's why I never had any symptoms yet. I'm not sure if the capacitors in question were on that board though.
stanltod's Avatar stanltod 04:57 PM 02-27-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_j View Post

Thanks for clearing it up -- good to know that I'm covered until then, no point on doing anything now then it sounds like.

I did have my mainboard swapped out a few years ago due to the HDMI handshake issue so I wonder if that's why I never had any symptoms yet. I'm not sure if the capacitors in question were on that board though.

No, the capacitors in question are on the power supply board.
steveh27's Avatar steveh27 04:36 PM 02-29-2012
My set, bought Nov, 2007, would be covered. I'm not sure what to do now though. I've been very aware of the cap problem by following this site. My picture has been very good, but after the tv has been on for maybe over 20 minutes I will hear an infrequent moderately loud 'clunk'. I've assumed that has been the cap(s) bulging due to the heat. Any thoughts?
steveh27's Avatar steveh27 07:34 AM 03-03-2012
With an extended 18 month warranty on this, I think I'll just wait for a year or so to see if anything develops. If nothing does I may still call them to set up a visit to check the caps.
Genphlux's Avatar Genphlux 05:36 PM 03-27-2012
I hope I am adding this in the right place, so if I've done this incorrectly, I do apologize in advance.

I have an LNT-4665F that had the notorious capacitor issue, which I was able to resolve very easily. However, I did let it go on with that issue for the better part of two years prior to taking action. Other than taking a little longer to power on, it wasn't an inconvenience so I didn't want to take a chance on possibly damaging it further by removing the board and changing the caps.

Unfortunately, I started experiencing a different issue. Once the set would power on, the left half of the screen would be very dark. If there was a very bright scene on TV at the time, we could see a little bit but on average or darker scenes, we pretty much couldn't see anything. Nothing seemed to make this situation better.

I wasn't sure if anything was related between the capacitor issue and the darkness issue, so I moved forward with the capacitor replacement. Once the repair was complete, the set powered on instantly (and still does) however the darkness issue persists. Except now, the whole screen is darker than it should be, with the left side seeming to be worse. Also, the refresh rate is TERRIBLE. When I'm navigating through the system menus, it takes a second or so for the next menu to appear on the screen, with the previous menu still "ghosted" in the background.

I took a really bad picture, but its the best I could produce with my iPhone. Please let me know if there is any hope in repairing this thing any further!

Thanks in advance!


TPeterson's Avatar TPeterson 08:16 AM 03-28-2012
My guess is that you need to replace the power supply board entirely unless you overlooked one of the caps. Another possibility is that one of the CFL units has gone bad (but that wouldn't explain the odd menu behavior).
audit13's Avatar audit13 12:50 PM 04-03-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by royalewithcheese View Post

Turned out not to be the caps, the tech seemed to think it's the main board. I'm about to order a replacement, the one in my tv says "BN94-01835Q" the board I found online says its for the same model tv the part number is different but it does say "BN94-01835Q" (my model) under "board number." How interchangeable are these? there seems to be many different main board part numbers for the same model of TV also wondering if I will need to do any calibration after installing the new board..which I wouldn't be able to do as I don't have the remote control for it.

I put in a call to Samsung Canada and they will have a service tech call and make an appointment to come out and look at my tv. I hope it's the caps because I don't want to pay for a wasted visit.

My tv's symptoms: I turn it on, I hear the chirp sound, screen stays blank, the tv turns itself off, then turns itself on, I hear the chirp, and the pic comes up. Sometimes, it turns itself on and off 2 or three times before I get a pic from by cable box. I needs to turn itself on at least twice before I get a pic.

Edit: Service tech just left and tv seems fine. Turns on the first time without issue. Caps were bulging but not leaking. I am a happy camper again
psuKinger's Avatar psuKinger 05:46 PM 04-10-2012
Some may find the following to be interesting, regarding firmware, and using an LN-T4065f as a HTPC "monitor".

I purchased an LN-T4065f ~5 years ago, while they were relatively new. The installed firmware is as follows:




I liked this screen so much, that when I decided to turn my basement into a "sports viewing room", I paid more than I should have to buy a second LN-T4065f about 18 months ago, simply so I could have *symmetry* from one side of the "viewing area" to the other. It's firmware is as follows:




I recently purchased a Home Theater PC with a Ceton InfiniTV to feed all of these screens *games*. I hooked the PC directly up to the older LN-T4065f via HDMI, and am powering other screens with WMC Extenders/Slingboxes/ect.

The (older) TV "glitches" multiple times an hour. The screen will turn static, and then green lines appear, and either the entire screen turns blue or it just keeps blinking green staticy lines. When I hooked the HTPC up to the "new" LN-T4065f, the *glitch/problem* never occurs.

After testing various HDMI cables, updating drivers, etc, I'm convinced that the issue/difference is the TV firmware. The "older" firmware does not work well with (at least my) HTPC HDMI connections. The new one works great.

I haven't yet decided if I"m going to try to update the first one, or just swap screens and keep on keepin' on. FYI for anyone interested, and if anyone has any thoughts/experience regarding updating that older firmware to the latest, please share.
TPeterson's Avatar TPeterson 08:20 AM 04-11-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by psuKinger View Post

....if anyone has any thoughts/experience regarding updating that older firmware to the latest, please share.

If you read the early part of this thread you'll see many references to HDMI glitches with the original firmware that were eliminated by updating it.
psuKinger's Avatar psuKinger 01:33 PM 04-12-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

If you read the early part of this thread you'll see many references to HDMI glitches with the original firmware that were eliminated by updating it.

Understood. I have no intention of wading through all 650 some pages of this thread, but I had thought about reading the first 10 or so and seeing what I find.

I simply saw on the Opening Post that WilliamG was advising NOT to update firmwares "1011 or above", as "there are NO recurring issues with the 1007 or 1011-or-above mainboards". Mine is above 1011, yet updating does not appear to be suggested by the OP, despite my problem.

I chatted online with a Samsung rep, they told me "there are no firmware updates for this TV", which I know to be a lie, as I have two TVs with two different firmwares, but I guess they don't/aren't supporting updating older firmwares.


Part of me wants to *fix* the older TV, but for my current purposes, a simpler (and less risky) option is likely to simply switch TVs; move the left (old) 4065f to the right and the right (new) 4065f to the left, and move on with life.

To some extent, I was just posting what I had found for information purposes for anyone else that may come along in the future and find it to be helpful.
TPeterson's Avatar TPeterson 08:06 AM 04-13-2012
I believe that you' re confusing the firmware numbers with the mainboard ones. Neither of your sets appears to have the "new" 1011 mainboard that would not need updating to the 1037 firmware.

EDIT: I see now that part of the confusion likely comes from a typo in that first post, which says:

"Only attempt to upgrade your firmware if the first line is 1004, 1005, 1008, or 1009."

That should read: "Only attempt to upgrade your firmware if the second line (the one with the screen-size info) is 1004, 1005, 1008, or 1009."

Note that psuKinger's two sets have 1004 and 1009 mainboards.
Aeramor's Avatar Aeramor 09:19 PM 04-16-2012
Does anyone know where to get the actual firmware now? Downloads on the main page don't seem to work. I have a ln-t5265f which I bought ~5 years ago. The dropouts never really bothered me before because I rarely watch tv but now my roommate watches often and it's bothering him.
Is the current protocol to call samsung? I tried their online chat and talked to about the least helpful person on the planet.
TPeterson's Avatar TPeterson 09:33 AM 04-17-2012
Aeramor, check your PMs.
BadCapacitor's Avatar BadCapacitor 11:26 AM 04-17-2012
Hey guys, just wanted to say that I had my LNT4065 since Dec of '07. It's great but over a year ago it started having the infamous power-cycling issue with the clicking sound. It wasn't so bad back then as the TV would just click (with no image) for a few minutes before turning on with purple pixels all over the screen (that went away after another powercycling).

Well over time, the few minutes became 20 minutes and eventually something near an hour. This was bad but I was able to deal with it so I didn't bother to fix it. Fast forward today, the hours became days. Now this, this was something I couldn't bare. Finally opened up my TV and replaced the 2 bulging capacitors that were rated 2200uF 10v 105c.

Was going to buy some NTE capacitors, but they are constantly on backorder at Fry's and RadioShack sells them for too much. Instead, I ordered 2 Nichicon 2200uF 25v 105c radial lead capacitors to replace the bad ones. My soldering job was questionable but fortunately it got the job done. Now my TV works like new.
pixelation's Avatar pixelation 06:44 PM 04-18-2012
LOL! You should visit this thread more often.
Brad Grenz's Avatar Brad Grenz 12:50 AM 04-19-2012
So, I ended up picking up a used 4066f on craigslist about a week ago. It was a really low price and I may have acted a bit rashly buying without sufficient research, but I appear to be having the infamous HDMI handshake issue.

I know the capacitors on this set were previously replaced, but the hardware board is version 1005 and even with the latest 1037 firmware I can't get a stable picture over HDMI at 1080p from my PS3, Xbox 360 or my PC. It works better at 1080i or 720p, which is fine for watching blu-rays and playing console games, but I wanted to be able to play PC games at 1080p on this thing!

So, without having to search through the whole thread, does anyone know if this is something Samsung is still fixing or how much they charge? I don't expect I have any right to warranty coverage... Or is it something I could fix myself if the part is available?
Dubrxsti's Avatar Dubrxsti 02:29 AM 04-19-2012
I see this was just asked but where can I get the firmware updates for the LNT4665?
Brad Grenz's Avatar Brad Grenz 04:10 AM 04-20-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Grenz View Post

So, I ended up picking up a used 4066f on craigslist about a week ago. It was a really low price and I may have acted a bit rashly buying without sufficient research, but I appear to be having the infamous HDMI handshake issue.

I know the capacitors on this set were previously replaced, but the hardware board is version 1005 and even with the latest 1037 firmware I can't get a stable picture over HDMI at 1080p from my PS3, Xbox 360 or my PC. It works better at 1080i or 720p, which is fine for watching blu-rays and playing console games, but I wanted to be able to play PC games at 1080p on this thing!

So, without having to search through the whole thread, does anyone know if this is something Samsung is still fixing or how much they charge? I don't expect I have any right to warranty coverage... Or is it something I could fix myself if the part is available?

I've looked around and it seems I can find a replacement main board for my set with the model number BN94-01199D for anywhere between $100-350. Does anyone know a reliable supplier? Does it make a difference if I get an official Samsung built board or one made by "Green Choice"? Is this a repair I can do myself? Does it require soldering? From reading some of the old reports of people who've had in house servicing it sounds like it's a 30 minute job for someone experienced at TV repair. That gives me hope it's not outside the realm of possibilities to do it myself, but I'm worried about getting an incompatible part, or worse, buying a "refurbished" board with the same HDCP handshake flaw...
AAudio's Avatar AAudio 05:43 PM 05-19-2012
I had the cap problem and repaired it about 1 year ago. All is well but this morning only on 1 channel I see a green bar taking up about 25 percent of the tv on the right hand side.
Odd thing is it is only on 1 channel but it doesn't seem to be a station problem as all other types of Tvs in my home as well as friends doesn't seem to have the problem.

Anyone had this problem?
Fix?

Doug

I wanted to add that its like the picture is off center. The left side of the shows is not visable.

Sorry for cell phone picture
LL
LL
Dubrxsti's Avatar Dubrxsti 11:14 PM 06-23-2012
Does anyone have the 1037 firmware? I have 1035 and I am now getting ghosting issues. Any help would be great.
retiredat44's Avatar retiredat44 07:25 AM 06-28-2012
I got my Samsung 46" LCD HDTV in very early 2008. It's worked good, excpet that once in a while, it goes off by itself, clicks then comes back on...

I just found out there was a new Firmware patch (applied using usb thumb drive) I found and installed, not sure if it helped, and what issues the firmare helped.. I think it is Firmware 1020. It was 1015 before I flashed it. I have no clue if it fixed that problem or what else the firmware is suppose to update. I am sorry if this thread is only for other problems, or all problems with this model of Samsung TV, and several other models.

thanx..

note: when i flashed the firmware, the LCD TV hated al lo fmy USB thumdrives, except for my HP USB thumdrive.. it accepted that one and i was able to flash and upgrade.. I cannot find th elink I got the formware from... if i find it I wil post it again.. I am not even sure if it wil fix that issue.. I alos have an oissue where when I am looing at the LCD as a compute rmonitor I get these thin red and blus eline running down the left side,,, they go away after a while... hours or days.. they are not bad,, but should not be there anyways.. this 46" LCD HDTV sure does put out a lot fo heat, especially int he summer it makes the room a sauna...

It's been a good tv,, overall, except for those issues... I also use it as a computer monitor in HDMI mode, from my HDMI cable, connected to my Nvidia video card in my computer..

btw, I went looking again to see where I had download the firmware update, only a few hours ago, still cannot find the link.. but I went t the Samsung website, and it is totally worthless for products that are more than a year or two old, they only help people with new products,, the list just doe snot have any older products, which is total B.S. and I will remember this when I buy a new product..

IMHO
Thunder240's Avatar Thunder240 05:06 PM 07-12-2012
Hey guys, I did my best to review this thread and its predecessor threads in case my question has already been discussed. However given 19000+ posts (not counting posts in predecessor threads), its possible I missed something. Which is to say, if this has already been asked and answered, I apologize. I've also read the manual, which contains 0 information on this subject. Please don't flame me!

Bottom line up front: Can the Toslink output on these TVs pass through a 2.0 PCM hi def audio signal (i.e. 24 bit / 88.2 or 96 or 192 khz sample rate) received from HDMI input?

Background: I have a LN-T4066F in my bedroom and use my stereo for audio via an optical connection. I'm planning to add a blu-ray player, but my stereo only has 2 optical inputs, and the second one is already occupied (Airport Express). I'm thinking of adding a blu-ray player, and if I do, I'd connect the blu-ray to the TV with HDMI and use the TV to pass through stereo audio. Primary purpose of the blu-ray would be to watch movies, secondary purpose would be to play SACDs. To the latter end, I'd like to know whether hi-def audio is possible. Assume that the blu-ray player is sending a hi def 2 ch PCM audio signal over HDMI. Clearly one option is to add an optical switch and to run another optical cable from the blu ray to the the stereo, but I'd like to avoid that if possible.

Thanks for any info!
TPeterson's Avatar TPeterson 10:23 AM 07-13-2012
The digital audio output does not pass through anything from the HDMI inputs. It only outputs the tuner's audio signal.

EDIT: Wrong! See next posts.
Thunder240's Avatar Thunder240 11:52 AM 07-13-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

The digital audio output does not pass through anything from the HDMI inputs. It only outputs the tuner's audio signal.

TPeterson, thanks for responding, but you are mistaken that the toslink cannot pass through anything from HDMI. Maybe it cannot pass through a 5.1 DD or 5.1 DTS bitstreams from HDMI, but I know from past experience that it is capable of passing through a 2.0 PCM (48/16) signal from HDMI. I know this because for a while I had a DVD player connected to the TV via HDMI. The DVD player was set to stereo downmix, and I got audio through the toslink connector to my stereo system. My question is whether the toslink can also pass higher bit depth / sample rate 2.0 PCM signals were I to add a blu ray player.
samsungfirmware's Avatar samsungfirmware 09:39 AM 07-14-2012
Can someone post a link or PM the 1037 firmware for this television? Thank you.
TPeterson's Avatar TPeterson 12:13 PM 07-14-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder240 View Post

TPeterson, thanks for responding, but you are mistaken that the toslink cannot pass through anything from HDMI.
Sonuvagun...you're right. Since the TOSLINK output was DD5.1 whenever the internal tuner was receiving such but there was no audio passthrough when I fed DD5.1 to HDMI3, I jumped to the erroneous conclusion that the TOSLINK output was only for the tuner. But I now see that if the HDMI3 input contains PCM audio that does appear on the TOSLINK output. I'm not set up, however, to test various PCM formats so I can't answer your original question.
Thunder240's Avatar Thunder240 02:49 PM 07-17-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

Sonuvagun...you're right. Since the TOSLINK output was DD5.1 whenever the internal tuner was receiving such but there was no audio passthrough when I fed DD5.1 to HDMI3, I jumped to the erroneous conclusion that the TOSLINK output was only for the tuner. But I now see that if the HDMI3 input contains PCM audio that does appear on the TOSLINK output. I'm not set up, however, to test various PCM formats so I can't answer your original question.

smile.gif

I'm going to figure out a way to test this myself. It's gonna require my borrowing some equipment from friends (not the least because even though my stereo contains a 192/24 DAC, there is no way to make it display the type of PCM signal it is currently receiving), so it probably won't happen right away, but when it does I'll post a report in case there is anyone else out there who'd like to set up their system using the TV as a pass through for hi def stereo audio. Stand by!
Dubrxsti's Avatar Dubrxsti 11:42 PM 07-24-2012
I have acquired firmware updates 1032 1035 and 1037 so for people that are looking at upgrading of downgrading let me know and I will get them to you.
pixelation's Avatar pixelation 12:36 AM 08-21-2012
I sort of have an opposite question about the Toslink output. Can this Samsung TV downsample the digital tuner's audio to PCM? I don't think I came across any menu option but just thought I should ask before giving up. Comparing the sound from my BR player, via my LN-T4665F, the Toslink output is some how much better than an analog RCA Red/White cable (5-6 ft)
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