Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 206 - AVS Forum
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post #6151 of 6177 Old 03-19-2014, 09:19 AM
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Thank you for your response. I have went all through both boards and there was no bulging caps anywhere. I only replaced the one I did because it was mentioned in other threads as being a common problem. I am at a loss at this point. Without testing each cap individually, which I don't have the means to do, there is nothing visually wrong that I can see.

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post #6152 of 6177 Old 03-19-2014, 06:52 PM
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show us a picture of your soldering job on that cap!
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post #6153 of 6177 Old 03-22-2014, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tikicult View Post

I have Fios for my TV provider, and I only subscribe to basic cable, so I only get a few local channels. (We watch 90% of our content on our Roku, and getting local channels+internet was cheaper than just getting internet). I only really use cable to watch local news. My menu setting was set to Auto Cable. I just changed it to Cable and it is currently rescanning and finding channels. That is an improvement from before where it would just hang after 1 channel. I'll see where this goes and update this post. Thanks for the help!

Edit: Everything is working fine now. Just had to change the menu setting and do the re-scan. Thanks!

Happy to hear/read you had success! Thanks for the challenge!!! biggrin.gif
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post #6154 of 6177 Old 04-10-2014, 01:20 PM
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So after reading several several pages of this forum, I'd like to replace the 470uf 16v cap but I have one problem: I cannot figure out how to get to the board! It seems like it's screwed and riveted in this rectangular cube that has no entry. Does anyone know of a teardown or breakdown video of this TV model? I've spent over an hour and I seriously can't figure it out.

Thanks in advance!

-- EDIT --

I finally figured it out. The screws on the sides near the inputs need to come out, as well as the nut around the antenna and then it slides out the left side with the faceplate.
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post #6155 of 6177 Old 04-11-2014, 03:01 PM
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*Update*

I couldn't find a 470uF 105°C cap locally. Radioshack only had 85°C caps, and no electrical supply store had 16V caps. The only recommendation was to find a local TV repair shop, which I found none.

I ended up getting two 470uF caps on Digi-Key and a Weller SP25NKUS soldering kit, and shipping was only $3.94 so the total came to only $27.75 - pretty good deal if this fixes my problem.

And I wanted to give kudos to Digi-Key because they shipped my order in less than 2 hours. Wow!

I haven't soldered since technology class in 9th grade. I'll keep adding updates whether I pass or fail on this journey...
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post #6156 of 6177 Old 04-11-2014, 05:02 PM
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Some people have had success by just gently cutting off the cap on the top side rather than unsoldering that does more damage than soldering since it pulls at the internal through-hole layers. I'd try to slip a razor blade underneath being careful not to cut into the traces on the top of the board. Then you can either un-solder the remain leads or just solder the cap leads to the remaining bumps to give it a test. Good luck. Dave
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post #6157 of 6177 Old 05-16-2014, 09:44 PM
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Thank you so much all. After a power failure, the tv never came back. Always stays at the orange light/ standby mode. I was going to throw it in the garbage, and decided to look for a fix. Found nothing the first time. I bought a new tv and put that one aside for 1 year. I decided to give a second look before throwing it in garbage. I FOUND YOU GUYS, and this little 470uf was the problem. I wasnt able to unsolder it. I just pulled it and solder a new one over the old legs. Took me 1min. Plug and play! Thx
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post #6158 of 6177 Old 05-17-2014, 08:01 AM
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You're most welcome! So you just pulled on the cap and the legs stayed in the PC Board? Then you soldered the new cap to what was left on top? How long did you leave the new caps leads? Wish you had a picture but I think there is one earlier where someone did something similar. Mine is still working great! Dave
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post #6159 of 6177 Old 05-28-2014, 06:46 PM
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I subscribed to this thread about 9 years ago. I knew it would come in handy someday.
My TV recently bricked and this was the first place I came.
I promptly unbricked my TX-47F430S with the modded firmware.

Pros:
TV is still kicking!

Cons:
Can't convince my wife we 'need' to upgrade if this one's still working.
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post #6160 of 6177 Old 05-29-2014, 03:54 PM
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Since this thread is so long can you point us to the modded firmware you used?

I've got another question about these sets - do they have a place to view the input signal strength in the menu?

Thanks, Dave
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post #6161 of 6177 Old 05-31-2014, 05:39 AM
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post #6162 of 6177 Old 06-01-2014, 02:04 PM
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Hey All,

 

I've been following this thread for about a week (the same amount of time my tv has been down)

 

I have a Model# TX-42F430S

Part# TW-51123-C042A

SN# 5112J80102644

Factory ID: AK (Alaska?)

 

Some thoughts/things i've faced thus far. I attempted first, the software flash. I downloaded it, and realized i didn't have the proper compression software, so i downloaded 7Zip. It took me a while to realize that .tar.gz and .tgz are the same thing, and one describes the other. I first archived my boot folder with the changed 1's to 0's (i only had to change ONE of the .sh files, the other 3 were good), and once i Archived it in 7Zip, then i compressed it, and it saved it as a tar.gz, which i was expecting it to save as a .tgz. I attempted the flash w/the UPDATE_WDE.tar.gz (changed file extension so it read UPDATE_WDE.tgz) and attempted. No dice, so i went back and recompressed it to read UPDATE_WDE.tar.gz and tried again, no dice.

 

I then noticed after reading further that i only had 2/3 green LEDs on in the back and took pictures, and read more about the bad news capacitors. I haven't replaced anything, but am thinking about redoing the 470 micro farad one everyone raves about.

 

Below are the pics, if you have any better ideas, please let me know :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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post #6163 of 6177 Old 06-02-2014, 06:16 PM
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I'd replace that cap - the 470uF one above the 150 M64 choke by that PLCC IC in the last pics. I discovered this inferior component using a hair dryer to heat it up enough so that pressing the on button for around 10 seconds made it work. I'm not certain that your flashing attempts might have messed up the firmware but if you never got the purple/blue light, most likely the flashing never had the power to get to mess up the firmware. I'd do the hair dryer first to see, then if not I'd replace the cap anyway. DaveC
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post #6164 of 6177 Old 06-15-2014, 07:27 PM
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Talking Good to go

I really appreciate your help!

I replaced the 470 micro farad capacitor as others have previously said to do. I only had two green LEDs, and after desoldering the old cap, and resoldering the new one, i still only had 2 green LEDs, so the third never did light up for me. After replacing the cap, i plugged it in, and the tv fired right up! I really appreciate ya'lls help!

Also, if anyone wants a 470uF cap (same one as OEM, 105*C spec), i have 8 extras and would be willing to ship them for the cost of shipping...I'm located in Topeka, KS.

Thanks again for the help! If it goes out again I will definitely be back
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post #6165 of 6177 Old 06-15-2014, 07:45 PM
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post #6166 of 6177 Old 08-18-2014, 07:22 PM
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I have the same thing but have had the tv for over 6 years now and just started to get dark splotches on my screen kinda focused in the middle around 3 inches from the top only when darker colors or grays are on the screen.
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post #6167 of 6177 Old 08-19-2014, 03:31 PM
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I can't seem to find any official or custom firmware available anywhere to download. I keep getting links to westinghousedigital.com/firmware.aspx, but that just bounces me back to WH's home page. Further up this page, somebody put a link in the forum to a post a couple pages back that said where the link to the firmware was, but that also was not there when I looked. Has it all been taken down? Is it possible to still download this? If you have the new FW and are willing to share, can you PM me? I can't play any online games because my tv just randomly drops audio/video on my ps3 about four or fives times an hour.
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post #6169 of 6177 Old 08-19-2014, 04:39 PM
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Best instructions to go with the aforementioned firmware.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tokmelo View Post
Gixxer331, these are the steps i followed:

1. Remove Tv power cord.
2. Insert usb in tv port.
3. Plug tv power cord.
4. I did not press the on/off button. The update started with a purple LED and did not blink as Westinghouse instructions says.
5. Wait about 3 and half minutes until the LED turn blue.
6. Remove USB.
7. Press on/off button once to turn off tv. The LED goes to amber.
8. I press the on/off button again for 10 seconds and the tv turned on. Some people recomends for this step to remove/plug power cord.

Hope this helps!
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post #6170 of 6177 Old 08-20-2014, 10:29 AM
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Thanks, Woobieizer. I had one other question... so the situation that my TV is in is that it works 100% of the time with my laptop, but with my PS3 it occasionally (at its worst a few times an hour) drops the signal for 5-6 seconds, sometimes completely until I unplug and replug my TV back in. Sometimes it also just drops to snowy static, also sometimes for a few seconds and sometimes completely until unplugging.

So my question, is this a situation that the FW could fix, or more importantly, is this a situation that the FW might not fix and screwing with the FW in this situation could possibly brick it? I've done plenty of modding and manual FW updates before (not on TV's), so I'm confident in following correct and safe procedures to avoid bricking through incompetence, but I'm just curious if misdiagnosing my problem and trying to do this to fix it might cause any further problems. Thanks again for your time.
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post #6171 of 6177 Old 08-20-2014, 11:05 AM
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I've got some questions? Does your PC make use of a HDMI port or is it connected via VGA?

If HDMI, then have you tried a different HDMI port?
If not HDMI, do you have any other HDMI device (like the ps3) that can connect to the set?
Have you tried using the SCART connection your PS3 came with to run to component RCA connections? Have you ruled out your PS3?

Back in the day when I had a PS3 fat, I would loose video sync during game and would use the remote to change input to TV then back to HDMI. That solved my situation until newer PS3 firmware mysteriously resolved the sync.

As for the tv firmware: If you see your model listed in ekztl's post and feel like chancing it, the process is pretty straight fwd, but will reset your picture configs and bless you with a couple different options in the naming of device and a splash screen.

I've used this firmware on my set twice; all Phillips LG componets in my 47" Westinghouse.
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post #6172 of 6177 Old 08-20-2014, 01:53 PM
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My laptop is connected via hdmi, and I've tried switching out cables and testing all hdmi ports on my tv. Ports and cables that work consistently for my laptop do not work consistently for my ps3. I had this problem on this tv back with my old fat ps3 and my current thin ps3. Also, my old fat ps3 is now hooked up on a different tv as a netflix device mainly, and that tv has not had any issues. I dont remember having any issues with my 360 or anything with component cables (wii, ps2) on this tv. I have not tried anything other than HDMI with my ps3, but I believe they would work... its just not a solution I want.

From what I read theres an issue with HDCP handshake protocols or something with the ps3 being unverified to the tv, so it disconnects intermittently, which sounds like my problem. I don't understand why its a problem that has been happening more frequently as time goes on. If that is the problem, it sounded like upgrading the firmware can possibly fix that problem.

My tv model number is on that list, and if it doesn't fix the problem thats okay, as long as it doesnt brick my tv, which it sounds like you're saying shouldn't be a problem as long as I don't mess it up. Thanks again for the help, I've almost never gotten good - let alone quick - responses whenever I look for help in a forum.
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post #6173 of 6177 Old 08-20-2014, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Kramer View Post
My laptop is connected via hdmi, and I've tried switching out cables and testing all hdmi ports on my tv. Ports and cables that work consistently for my laptop do not work consistently for my ps3. I had this problem on this tv back with my old fat ps3 and my current thin ps3. Also, my old fat ps3 is now hooked up on a different tv as a netflix device mainly, and that tv has not had any issues. I dont remember having any issues with my 360 or anything with component cables (wii, ps2) on this tv. I have not tried anything other than HDMI with my ps3, but I believe they would work... its just not a solution I want.

From what I read theres an issue with HDCP handshake protocols or something with the ps3 being unverified to the tv, so it disconnects intermittently, which sounds like my problem. I don't understand why its a problem that has been happening more frequently as time goes on. If that is the problem, it sounded like upgrading the firmware can possibly fix that problem.

My tv model number is on that list, and if it doesn't fix the problem thats okay, as long as it doesnt brick my tv, which it sounds like you're saying shouldn't be a problem as long as I don't mess it up. Thanks again for the help, I've almost never gotten good - let alone quick - responses whenever I look for help in a forum.

Glad to assist. Been here a long time. I remember reading Huggybears first post. lol I miss a bunch of them.

I don't recall which game I was into at the time my PS3 and Westy had issues, but it could be that it was only that one game hence, perhaps you have a game disk that is going nuts, causing the HDCP, Perhaps you could rule that out as well. Anyhow, I've upped some settings of my Slim that does not exhibit the problem we've experienced.

I appreciate all the reasoning and personal troubleshooting you've provided, and understand your logic completely.

Game


HDMI
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post #6174 of 6177 Old 08-20-2014, 04:47 PM
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Ahh Ha! I might have remembered non too soon after re reading Huggies First Post.. now I've had my Helen Keller moment..

Put your PS3 on HDMI 1 Problem solved.
Back in the day.. again.. that sad intro.. I had my game rig beside the PS3 and it was on HDMI 1.. Once I swapped or removed he other HDMI source from the HDMI Hub.. no more dropout.
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post #6175 of 6177 Old 08-20-2014, 05:58 PM
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I'm doing it again...

I have just entered and escaped the twilight zone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by some prick lol
tokiidokii - Thanks for bringing this up. The lockup and Matrix affect, I think are related. Do you recall the last imput you had it on?

bhazard - I think that game is possesed!

huggybear - Thanks for the reposting this PS3 info. I can't imagine you would have not already posted your success, yet I have to admit... myconfession:ihavenotreadeverythingintheforumiwasa wolforamon thplayingneedforspeedcarbonimsoashamed

Xnappo - Aren't you just dying to get another?

armenhamer- It is almost like a computer, with a suspend (E-saver), Hibernate (the lockup), and OFF!
>Power Options >E-Saver >Power on Plug (OFF), w/UPS + AVR

Lutch - You owe the forum Your PS3 config..plz Thank, tonight! gotcha
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/851860-official-westinghouse-tx-series-tx-42f430s-tx-47f430s-owner-s-thread-post11165338.html
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post #6176 of 6177 Old Today, 11:45 AM
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I am currently looking for instructions on how to set up the USB, but I thought I would ask here too... So what do I do? Format to FAT32 I would imagine, and then do I need any folder structure or just copy the files to the root directory? Currently, my USB looks like this:

Root(untitled)>
safe-kernel.img1
update_WDE42.tgz

I followed the instructions above, unplugged the tv, plugged the USB into the service port (the only USB port I could find), and then plugged it back in. I didn't get a purple light, it just turned on exactly like normal with an amber light, showed the normal W logo, then turned off after about thirty seconds because it didn't have any signal. I let it sit for a few minutes just in case it was actually working, but after turning the TV back on, it didn't seem any different. Am I doing something wrong here? Maybe I need to extract the tgz file? I don't know.
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post #6177 of 6177 Old Today, 11:48 AM
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BRB I'll check my USB for format....

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Kramer View Post
I am currently looking for instructions on how to set up the USB, but I thought I would ask here too... So what do I do? Format to FAT32 I would imagine, and then do I need any folder structure or just copy the files to the root directory? Currently, my USB looks like this:

Root(untitled)>
safe-kernel.img1
update_WDE42.tgz

I followed the instructions above, unplugged the tv, plugged the USB into the service port (the only USB port I could find), and then plugged it back in. I didn't get a purple light, it just turned on exactly like normal with an amber light, showed the normal W logo, then turned off after about thirty seconds because it didn't have any signal. I let it sit for a few minutes just in case it was actually working, but after turning the TV back on, it didn't seem any different. Am I doing something wrong here?
brb

Using a sandisk 2 gig, I formatted in FAT/Full
Then used 7-zip to extract to the root.



I recall having issues in Fat32.. ie no love.
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