Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 207 - AVS Forum
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post #6181 of 6198 Old 08-28-2014, 01:12 AM
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I said T-Con inadvertently. It's the Master and Slave Inverter board where the obvious bad caps are. Thumbed below is the overview and cage where the PSU and Main board are housed..
I managed to get the PSU out for an inspections but could only take a picture of the main board thur an opening.

I'll guess it was assembled in 04/2007

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post #6182 of 6198 Old 08-28-2014, 10:50 PM
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I went back to post 6121 for a picture of the 42" version like mine is and see that yours is definitely different. Are you certain that whole metal panel doesn't come off some how? It doesn't make sense that it wouldn't since you have to be able to get to the PCBs for repair or replacement. Give it a good look see before you start drilling out rivets. I don't see any through hole caps on your board from the picture you took so I'm wondering if you have the same board that we're talking about. You did replace all those bulging caps didn't you? Dave

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post #6183 of 6198 Old 09-12-2014, 09:01 PM
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Smile 470uf cap

I have the TX42F430S tv with the same Amber light issue and a TV that would just not turn on. Thanks to everyone for this thread. After reading all the posts, ordering the 470uf 16v 105c cap from Amazon... for a very low price, I had fun tonight taking the TV apart.
I looked at all the caps and they looked in good shape. No tops bulging. So I went with the write up and looked for the 470uF cap above the 150 M64. It also looked good to me with no problems at all.... but after taking the TV apart I was not about to stop. So, I pulled out that cap and solder a new 470uf on anyway. AND IT WORKED!!! TV came right on all channels working. Thanks to all that took the time to add to this tread. I was ready to trash my tv and now it's back up and running. And I am no expert in soldering or working on electronics. It was very simple process thanks to the pictures and directions posted here.
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post #6184 of 6198 Old 10-11-2014, 11:10 AM
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Unhappy All 4 HDMI connections not working

I have had the 42F430S for many years. Last night when I came home and found out there is a power outage during the day. Then I also recognized none of the HDMI connection works anymore, I mean all 4 HDMI connections which I had connected to different source (DVD, cable box, DVR, Roku) which had all works before. I had unplug the power to reset the TV. I had press the power button for 10+ seconds to do a reset. I had turned off the Autosource. I unplug all the HDMI cables and plug it back it. I tried each HDMI source and all of them go through the "Detecting" and then said "No Input Signal".

At first I thought the TV is totally broken but then I tried other input source for my Xbox and Wii which are not using HDMI connections. Both cases work so the TV is still functioning.

To me the problem is only with my HDMI connections (all 4). So any suggestion on what I can do.

Or it is a time to buy a new TV?

Thanks a lot for your help.
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post #6185 of 6198 Old 11-18-2014, 09:57 PM
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Atypical issue with 42F430S - picture dies after a few seconds

Hey everyone!

I've acquired a TX-42F430S from a friend. I am having an issue with the unit that doesn't fit the description of the usual problems with this unit. (Users pontrello and captainvintage described similar issues, but I didn't see a resolution to their posts.)

When the unit is plugged in, I get an amber light, as expected. When I press power, I get the Westinghouse logo, and the LED turns blue. The LCD turns off for a moment, then turns back on. It shows the Component video input correctly for about 2 seconds, then turns back off. The LED stays blue, and I have audio. Thus, I'm fairly certain I don't have a firmware issue. It sounds like a bad cap somewhere. We don't have the history on the unit, so we don't know if it used to stay on longer before dropping out. I haven't tried the hair dryer trick yet -- I'm bald and thus don't own one. :P I'm afraid to take my actual heat gun to this thing just yet. If that's safe to do, I'll give it a shot.

I've bought a replacement power supply board on Ebay, and the exact same behaviour occurs. There are no obvious (to me) bad caps on either board. I've attached photos of both boards. There is, of course, a chance that both boards are defective.

I am an electrical engineer -- I have a quality soldering iron, multimeter and oscillocope, but I'm honestly more of a DSP guy than a TV repairperson. I can certainly replace the caps on the power supply, if that's the issue. If so, with which ones should I start? The 470 uF one mentioned elsewhere in this thread?

Thanks for your help!
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post #6186 of 6198 Old 11-19-2014, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sund0g View Post
Hey everyone!

- I have a quality soldering iron, multimeter and oscillocope, but I'm honestly more of a DSP guy than a TV repairperson. I can certainly replace the caps on the power supply, if that's the issue. If so, with which ones should I start? The 470 uF one mentioned elsewhere in this thread?

Thanks for your help!
orgwood original mainboard http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/851860-official-westinghouse-tx-series-tx-42f430s-tx-47f430s-owner-s-thread-post23271565.html

radioactive21 places the markup circle http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/851860-official-westinghouse-tx-series-tx-42f430s-tx-47f430s-owner-s-thread-post23321494.html



Good Luck
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post #6187 of 6198 Old 11-19-2014, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post
orgwood original mainboard

radioactive21 places the markup circle

Good Luck
Thanks for helping me confirm! I will try and snag one from work (I'm in the middle of implementing a Digital Room Correction system for my design thesis, so it may be a few days. ), and I will report back with my results. Should I grab any others while I'm looking?
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post #6188 of 6198 Old 11-20-2014, 07:37 AM
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>I haven't tried the hair dryer trick yet -- I'm bald and thus don't own one. :P I'm afraid to take my actual heat gun to this thing just yet. If >that's safe to do, I'll give it a shot.

This is the method I used to originally find out which cap was bad and others confirm that IT ALWAYS IS THIS CAP!!!

>I've bought a replacement power supply board on Ebay, and the exact same behaviour occurs. There are no obvious (to me) bad caps on >either board. I've attached photos of both boards. There is, of course, a chance that both boards are defective.

I did exactly what you did - bought a replacement power supply board - and determined the same behaviour...this led me to working on the main board where I found that bad cap.

It should solve your problem. My 42" LCD is still working just fine after about 2 years.

Dave
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post #6189 of 6198 Old 11-20-2014, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orgwood View Post
>I haven't tried the hair dryer trick yet -- I'm bald and thus don't own one. :P I'm afraid to take my actual heat gun to this thing just yet. If >that's safe to do, I'll give it a shot.

This is the method I used to originally find out which cap was bad and others confirm that IT ALWAYS IS THIS CAP!!!

>I've bought a replacement power supply board on Ebay, and the exact same behaviour occurs. There are no obvious (to me) bad caps on >either board. I've attached photos of both boards. There is, of course, a chance that both boards are defective.

I did exactly what you did - bought a replacement power supply board - and determined the same behaviour...this led me to working on the main board where I found that bad cap.

It should solve your problem. My 42" LCD is still working just fine after about 2 years.

Dave
Thanks for your reply! No luck yet. I replaced the cap with a spare 470 uF 25V 85 C cap I found. It may have been pretty old, so I'll try ordering a new cap. What exactly did you replace it with? I'll order one on Digi-Key once I find out what worked for you. If I should try replacing any others, let me know what else to order, please.

(One of the vias for the cap was just a hair too small -- it took some work to get the old one out and get the new one in! Grr...)
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post #6190 of 6198 Old 11-20-2014, 11:12 AM
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>Thanks for your reply! No luck yet. I replaced the cap with a spare 470 uF 25V 85 C cap I found. It may have been pretty old, so I'll try >ordering a new cap. What exactly did you replace it with? I'll order one on Digi-Key once I find out what worked for you. If I should try >replacing any others, let me know what else to order, please.

I has to be low ESR for the switching circuit to work - GP audio caps won't work or hold up.

>(One of the vias for the cap was just a hair too small -- it took some work to get the old one out and get the new one in! Grr...)

I hope you didn't mess up the interconnect on the internal layers. That's why I suggested rocking the cap back and forth as you slowly unsolder one lead first, then the other. Others have reported they just cut off the leads and soldered the new cap to what remains on the top side of the board...not perfect but they said it worked.
Dave
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post #6191 of 6198 Old 11-22-2014, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by orgwood View Post
>I hope you didn't mess up the interconnect on the internal layers. That's why I suggested rocking the cap back and forth as you slowly unsolder one lead first, then the other. Others have reported they just cut off the leads and soldered the new cap to what remains on the top side of the board...not perfect but they said it worked.
Dave
Don't worry, that's exactly what I did (rocking the cap). I've had to do the same for a couple other power supplies I've repaired.

How's this look? digikey.com/product-detail/en/B41888C6477M/495-6041-ND/3544158
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post #6192 of 6198 Old 11-22-2014, 10:31 PM
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I looked at the specs and the ESR looks good as does the temp range. Not sure about the lead spacing since I don't have mine open to measure. Just check with yours to see if it'll drop in. I'd get 2 and solder to the top first to see if it fixes the turn on problem, then put it in the "proper" way if you want. Good Luck, Dave
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post #6193 of 6198 Old 11-26-2014, 07:49 AM
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Just started using my 47" golden oldie again. Any recommended calibration settings?
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post #6194 of 6198 Old 12-09-2014, 02:03 PM
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Hi, I have a Westinghouse 42" model # TX-42F810G and I want to replace the capacitor that everyone is having luck with but my board looks different that the one that is posted. Does anyone which one is the one I'm suppose to replace??
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post #6195 of 6198 Old Yesterday, 09:28 AM
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Anyone?
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post #6196 of 6198 Old Yesterday, 10:35 PM
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Your model number doesn't match ours TX42F430...don't know what to tell you but you won't find our problem on your board.
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post #6197 of 6198 Old Today, 12:23 AM
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I have the same TV issue, but the main board has aluminum caps, the light stays orange when turned on, and only 1 green LED lit up. Has anyone fixed this type of board ?

W470PROLX68, 48.3YT01.01A
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post #6198 of 6198 Old Today, 11:16 PM
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I downloaded the image of your board and the board we've been fixing to compare the layout...these definitely are not the same although I saw your board on eBay when I was looking for replacement boards. What is the model number of your LCD set? Is it Westinghouse? Your board has surface mount caps that would/should be easier to replace. If you look carefully at both boards side by side, look for the cap just left of the PLCC that matches the one circled on our board. Is it a 470uF cap? If so, we may be dealing with the same issue and replacing that same cap on your board may fix it. If this is a design error where ANY cap will wear down after so many hours of on time, I myself may be back in fixing my set in a few more years. I've seen no problem though after a few years of using my set about 4-8 hours everyday with turn ons and offs of at least 2-3 per day.
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470uf cap , Westinghouse Tx 42f430s 42 Inch Lcd Hdtv , westinghouse tx-47f430s
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