Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 208 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6211 of 6225 Old 01-21-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by orgwood View Post
Could you use the firmware dumped from a working set onto a flash drive? Maybe someone here knows how to do that for you? Dave
That's really half the answer to what i'm looking to do, if someone knows how to dump the firmware without removing the Firmware chip from the board i'm sure he knows how to upload the firmware back without using the USB.

my last resort is removing the chip and program it then solder it back , the only thing making me wait for another solution is that i need a TSOP56 adapter for my chip Programmer to be able to program the s29GL128 flash ,and to build the adapter its really a time consuming thing.

Hopefully someone will step in with a solution .

by the way the symptoms of the corrupted firmware is that the TV will turn on then show the Big W Logo and then turns back off with an orange Light , it will never turn to Blue light i'm sure many of the posters to this thread have this problem on there TX-47 or TX-42 and they end up throwing the board away.
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post #6212 of 6225 Old 01-28-2015, 04:54 PM
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Hi! I'm EXTREMELY new to this. After a power outage, my TX-47 won't turn on and only shows the amber light. I wanted to replace the bad cap, but I CAN'T figure out how to access it. I unscrewed all the screws that I could find but I still can't get how to open this enclosure to get to the board.

Can anyone help? Thanks!
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post #6213 of 6225 Old 01-28-2015, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by vash91892 View Post
Hi! I'm EXTREMELY new to this. After a power outage, my TX-47 won't turn on and only shows the amber light. I wanted to replace the bad cap, but I CAN'T figure out how to access it. I unscrewed all the screws that I could find but I still can't get how to open this enclosure to get to the board.

Can anyone help? Thanks!
If yours is the same design as mine then its simply a matter of disconnecting the cables that attach to the main board and sliding the board out.

Viewing the rear of the tv the HDMI ports should be on your left and the component connections should be on your right . Remove all the screws from the side with component connections and remove the flat headed flush screws from the HDMI side. You should be able to then pull the board out from the left side (HDMI side). When you go to install the board be careful, the board is supposed to be inserted between these metal slides.

If you cant figure it out I can get some pictures.

ZZ
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post #6214 of 6225 Old 01-28-2015, 06:54 PM
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Thanks for the reply!

I disconnected all the cables and took out all the screws but I still can't seem to slide the board out. Did you have screws inside that (I think) held your board in place like in my picture?

My pictures show the bottom view and the top view. They're the screws in the corner that my screwdriver can't get to
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post #6215 of 6225 Old 01-28-2015, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vash91892 View Post
Thanks for the reply!

I disconnected all the cables and took out all the screws but I still can't seem to slide the board out. Did you have screws inside that (I think) held your board in place like in my picture?

My pictures show the bottom view and the top view. They're the screws in the corner that my screwdriver can't get to

No I didnt have to remove any screws from the top of the board. Those screws help hold the metal plate that go around the component connections. See http://imgur.com/a/rNfSQ#0 and you can see how the board is supposed to slide out via the HDMI side.

ZZ
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post #6216 of 6225 Old 01-28-2015, 09:53 PM
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I see what you mean. I'm sure I got all the screws I need to, and I'm pulling on the metal plate quite hard to the point of bending it, but it's not budging.

I think the metal slides are holding my board in place really well. I'll just keep trying though.

Thanks for the help
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post #6217 of 6225 Old 02-13-2015, 09:48 AM
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Hi, I'm new to the forum and tried searching for a previous post about my problem, but didn't find anything. I have a TX-47F430S that I bought in 2008. It lives in the basement, and as a result, has not been used much at all.

Over the last few weeks, it has started losing the video drive signal (as near as I can guess). I primarily watch my Dish Network TV box through the HDMI port. It will work fine for a few hours, then the picture will suddenly disappear, but the audio continues to work and the LED stays blue. There is no "No signal found" message, and I can't get menus or anything, even internally generated, to display on the screen. Likewise, switching to the TV antenna input also produces only audio with no video. I can see the back light lamps illuminating, so I don't think it's lamp/drive problem. It really seems to me like the video just somehow gets "disconnected". If I do a hard reboot (holding in power switch for 10 sec), it comes back and works fine for a while before the whole cycle repeats.

Anybody seen this before? I thought I'd try a firmware update, but it seems Westinghouse no longer makes it available on their website. Any working link would be appreciated.
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post #6218 of 6225 Old 02-13-2015, 11:17 PM
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I have not seen this effect before BUT I think I remember reading about T-con boards acting like this because they take the video bit scans and output them to the LCD...just guessing here but with enough input someone will be able to help you out...it sounds almost similar to when the screen freezes with a picture "stuck" there but if they turn off, I would suppose it would have the effect of no video but the back lighting would still be present.
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post #6219 of 6225 Old 02-14-2015, 12:15 PM
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My TV died again today (3rd time) so I happened to be back on the forum looking for answers...

This forum has been a great help so I would like to give back a little.

I have all of the firmware files archived, but my post count is too low to post a link...

Let me know if there is an shared area, and I will upload them.
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post #6220 of 6225 Old 02-16-2015, 07:15 AM
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Firmware files

Quote:
Originally Posted by seanpriddy View Post
My TV died again today (3rd time) so I happened to be back on the forum looking for answers...

This forum has been a great help so I would like to give back a little.

I have all of the firmware files archived, but my post count is too low to post a link...

Let me know if there is an shared area, and I will upload them.
Good idea! How large are they per file and how many? I could post them on my site if small enough. Dave
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post #6221 of 6225 Old 02-16-2015, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by vash91892 View Post
I see what you mean. I'm sure I got all the screws I need to, and I'm pulling on the metal plate quite hard to the point of bending it, but it's not budging.

I think the metal slides are holding my board in place really well. I'll just keep trying though.

Thanks for the help
Were you able to get the board out? It's been awhile since I went into mine but I do kind of remember having to remove at least one screw using a small flat blade fitted inside to get it torqued loose...then hand removed. I also think I went down through those vent holes at an angle to get to more. Dave
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post #6222 of 6225 Old 02-19-2015, 01:25 PM
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HAHA! This is the first thread I posted in years ago, I had bought one of these things...lol

Good times
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post #6223 of 6225 Old 03-03-2015, 10:22 PM
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I got this LCD for free on CL. After doing the cap repair, it booted right up.

Problem: I'm getting slightly dark, fixed, horizintal lines that are spaced unevenly throughout the screen. It's more apparent on lighter backgrounds.

I've tried different inputs (vga, hdmi, hdmi2). All the same.

Could this be because of a poorly done cap repair? If not what could cause this?

Last edited by kenzo42; 03-03-2015 at 10:38 PM.
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post #6224 of 6225 Old Today, 06:59 AM
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I believe that the cap replacement just fixes the power rail for booting using that microcontroller. The lines you're describing wouldn't be part of that IMO unless the power rail remains somewhat "dirty" causing glitches but I don't think that it would even work if that were the case. My guess is that there is another power rail problem in those scan boards - can't remember what they're called right now. Do the lines move around on the screen or remain in a fixed position?
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post #6225 of 6225 Unread Today, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orgwood View Post
I believe that the cap replacement just fixes the power rail for booting using that microcontroller. The lines you're describing wouldn't be part of that IMO unless the power rail remains somewhat "dirty" causing glitches but I don't think that it would even work if that were the case. My guess is that there is another power rail problem in those scan boards - can't remember what they're called right now. Do the lines move around on the screen or remain in a fixed position?
They do not move. They are fixed. The picture is perfect - not scrambled around the horizontal lines like I've seen in some LCD panel failures.

It's as though someone took a pencil and drew horizontal lines across the screen. They are not evenly distributed either, nor do they move.

I hope I didn't damage something when trying to do the cap mod!

Any ideas?

Thanks.
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470uf cap , Westinghouse Tx 42f430s 42 Inch Lcd Hdtv , westinghouse tx-47f430s
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