Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 209 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6241 of 6259 Old 03-18-2015, 12:04 PM
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"Are there any reliable IN CIRCUIT esr testers?"

I use the Peak Atlas ESR70. You can probably get one for around $120 USD on eBay.
It will display both ESR and Capacitance.
I have found many bad caps in-circuit with it, including C51 in my TX-47F430S
How ever,"reliable" is a relative term. In-circuit testing will always have a degree of inaccuracy.

http://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/jz_esr70.html
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post #6242 of 6259 Old 04-28-2015, 12:25 AM
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Finally had a chance to get some pics. Anyone ever see anything like this?







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post #6243 of 6259 Old 04-28-2015, 10:20 PM
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I've never seen that on my LCD TV. If those dark or discolored areas don't move, I can only suspect that the display has been damaged possibly by being frozen or heat. If the spots don't move but do change colors it could be that certain transistors on that pixel are not working...think RGB on each dot. That's all I can come up with.
Anyone else?
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post #6244 of 6259 Old 04-28-2015, 11:07 PM
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There is no color change. Only black lines.
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post #6245 of 6259 Old 04-30-2015, 05:21 PM
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"There is no color change. Only black lines."

The photos show darkened horizontal rows 1 pixel wide across the entire screen. That suggests a poorly connected cable from the TV to the screen.
The TV glass screen is connected to the rest of the TV with 2 broad ribbon cables. One along the top and the other along the right or left side. They control horizontal and vertical lines in the TV screen. The intersection of these horizontal and vertical lines form a matrix of pixels. Each pixel sits on one vertical and one horizontal line. Usually these flat cables are made of polyimide, a clear orange flexible plastic.
As I posted earlier, these cables are connected to the screen with anisotropic paste or tape. This adhesive can dry out and become lose. When it does, control lines will lose electrical contact, resulting in vertical or horizontal dropout lines. This problem is more common in cheaper TV's form China. Watch out ones with unrecognizable brand names or manufactured autonomously for companies like Westinghouse.
This is a very frustrating problem, since there is no way for the average person to fix it, at least not that I have been able to find.

Since the main logic board is the ultimate driver for these control signals, a problem in the main board must also be considered. The best way to trouble shoot the main board would be to swap it out for another and see what happens. Given the high cost of a replacement board and the low probability of success, it is probably not worth doing.
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post #6246 of 6259 Old 05-06-2015, 11:57 AM
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I need a copy of the firmware for the tx42f430s if any of you have it please upload it. or send it to Thriskisska @ yahoo .com
I'm a new poster so can't post e-mail proper. Thanks for your time
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post #6247 of 6259 Old 07-12-2015, 01:17 PM
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TX-47 here purchased 6-7 yrs ago.

For the last year or so every once in a while it would get all glitchy contrast. Sometimes just restarting the set would fix it and sometimes not until it cooled off for a while unplugged. A few months ago, the picture would just shut off completely after warming up (30-60min). Still have sound.. it seems to be just the backlights so I'm assuming inverter board. I've read through much of this thread but I would appreciate some assistance. I have everything taken apart and all the capacitors I can see look fine. Is there any way to determine which inverter board it is or if it's somewhere with the power supply? I can turn it on and use it without problem for up to about an hour and then it will have to cool down again.
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post #6248 of 6259 Old 07-13-2015, 06:44 AM
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I don't know about your problem but I found that bad capacitor problem using a hair dryer to heat up specific areas on the PC boards. I started with the power supply and then moved to the main board where I localized it to one cap that caused the set to come on when heated. I've used this technique before to find components sensitive to heat by heating them gently until they fail but never in reverse like I did with the capacitor. A seller on eBay was kind enough to share that with me so I shared it here.

Last edited by orgwood; 01-06-2016 at 05:52 AM.
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post #6249 of 6259 Old 07-14-2015, 07:53 PM
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Thanks for the troubleshooting tip. I'll remember that. One more update on my problem.. when the screen shuts down the light goes back from blue to amber (didn't notice this before). It won't respond to any attempt to turn it on until it has been unplugged and allowed to cool off.
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post #6250 of 6259 Old 07-23-2015, 02:50 PM
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Would anyone happen to have a copy of the SusanII 1.2.0 and 1.4.0 firmware for the Westinghouse TX-42F430S they could make available? Ekztal's custom firmware includes a file called "update_WDE42.tgz" but I have the Trident CX revision of the TV that will only flash with "update_LCD1080CX.tgz" The TV I picked up (and recapped) is at FW 1.1.0. I found 1.3.0 but I can't flash to it without doing 1.2.0 first. The WDE.com site appears to be down and Westinghouse has completely disowned this model. The ghosting problem is truly awful at the moment. I tried flashing directly to 1.3.0 but it didn't take - the TV system properties still show 1.1.0 but now none of the HDMI inputs works!
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post #6251 of 6259 Old 01-04-2016, 12:23 PM
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By the way, at one point I figured out that the audio EQ in the menu on this TV is reversed - moving the "slider" down boosts signal for that range (bass, mid, or treble) and moving it up, turns the range down. Just an fyi in case you mess with things like that. Took me a few years before I finally figured this out and got any half decent sound by boosting bass and treble some.

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post #6252 of 6259 Old 01-06-2016, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lem0ns View Post
Thanks for the troubleshooting tip. I'll remember that. One more update on my problem.. when the screen shuts down the light goes back from blue to amber (didn't notice this before). It won't respond to any attempt to turn it on until it has been unplugged and allowed to cool off.
I've been running into the bad cap issue on many electronic devices so I'm gaining experience as I repair these - clock on microwave(no visible bursting of cap), main board on computer(cap top popped), LCD monitors(some bulging, some not...probably dried up 10 years old), video card(bursting caps) I mention the LCD monitor with no visible cap problem because they were ~10 years old and the power light said green but no visible image until the cap on one heated up a bit...Dell monitor. 2 caps in the inverter circuit showed no signs of bursting but after replacing them, the monitors worked. So I'm suspecting from your description of the power light that the inverter voltage is down and this set recognizes that and turns the power light back to amber from blue. Inverter problem would be my first guess.
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post #6253 of 6259 Old 01-06-2016, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dizzie View Post
By the way, at one point I figured out that the audio EQ in the menu on this TV is reversed - moving the "slider" down boosts signal for that range (bass, mid, or treble) and moving it up, turns the range down. Just an fyi in case you mess with things like that. Took me a few years before I finally figured this out and got any half decent sound by boosting bass and treble some.

The audio on my set was so bad I went to an external powered speaker with 2.1...Klipsch if I recall. Sounds so much better now. I just leave it on and adjusted just enough to augment the audio from the TV. There is a control on the menu to allow both to be on. Muting however shuts them both off which is good.
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post #6254 of 6259 Old 01-13-2016, 09:09 AM
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Nice!!
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post #6255 of 6259 Unread 09-23-2016, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeggyZon View Post
Turns out I have the aluminum surface mount type capacitors which is according to this thread on the rare side. None of the capacitors appeared to be be bulging.

I went ahead with the capacitor fix since its a cheap solution. Nothing changed for me, the tv still flickers like before. So it is probably the backlight inverters.
ZZ
Did you ever solve the flicker problem, or just get a new TV? I recently replaced my TCon board to fix the fade-to-black issue, and now the TV won't power up. When I hit the power button, I can see a faint flicker from the backlights and the LED stays amber. The green LED on the main board flickers too and I can hear a slight clicking sound from somewhere (power supply maybe).

My TV is the same model as yours and also has the surface mount aluminum caps, so I'm thinking it's probably not the 470 uF issue, but might replace it anyway.

I'm beginning to think my best solution may be a sledgehammer. Just about had it with this TV.
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post #6256 of 6259 Unread 09-23-2016, 08:05 AM
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Greetings. I have spent quite some time in this monstrous thread and I haven't come to any conclusions about the orange light issue for the TX-47F430S. This TV has been an almost flawless workhorse for 8 years, albeit with some burn-in from the senseless, non-floating info box. Now, I have the orange light with no power. My symptoms are: I took the stand off and mounted it on a wall mount and upon hooking it up, had the first orange light with no power-on. I unplugged and plugged it 10 or 15 times, held the power button, etc. all the typical attempts at a firmware reboot. Didn't work and walked away from it. An hour later, unplugged and plugged the power and it came right on. In a wonderful coincidence, had a power-outage that very same night, and haven't been able to get past the orange light again. Is there any way to know if I have a firmware or a cap issue from these symptoms?

Thanks to all the contributors.
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post #6257 of 6259 Unread 09-23-2016, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by shoelessruss View Post
Did you ever solve the flicker problem, or just get a new TV? I recently replaced my TCon board to fix the fade-to-black issue, and now the TV won't power up. When I hit the power button, I can see a faint flicker from the backlights and the LED stays amber. The green LED on the main board flickers too and I can hear a slight clicking sound from somewhere (power supply maybe).

My TV is the same model as yours and also has the surface mount aluminum caps, so I'm thinking it's probably not the 470 uF issue, but might replace it anyway.

I'm beginning to think my best solution may be a sledgehammer. Just about had it with this TV.
I forgot to mention that the flicker is pretty slow...like once per second. It may be trying to boot up, but then keeps resetting. It really doesn't look like a typical faulty fluorescent light kind of thing, although it could be, who knows? This has been a basement TV and hasn't gotten all that much use over the years.

Any harm in unplugging the inverter boards and see if it boots up without them? Trying to divide and conquer.
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post #6258 of 6259 Unread 09-23-2016, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by shoelessruss View Post
I forgot to mention that the flicker is pretty slow...like once per second. It may be trying to boot up, but then keeps resetting. It really doesn't look like a typical faulty fluorescent light kind of thing, although it could be, who knows? This has been a basement TV and hasn't gotten all that much use over the years.

Any harm in unplugging the inverter boards and see if it boots up without them? Trying to divide and conquer.
I haven't run this TV set without the inverters hooked up but I've not noticed a problem with other LCD monitors running without the boards hooked up. That clicking sound is a clue and most likely is a power rail trying to kick in.
See if you can isolate as to where it is coming from. I found the 470uF cap problem by heating up caps one by one with a hair dryer so maybe you can try that. But I've found that when there is a clicking, a semiconductor has failed, not a heat sensitive cap that will increase in value when hotter.
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post #6259 of 6259 Unread Today, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by orgwood View Post
I haven't run this TV set without the inverters hooked up but I've not noticed a problem with other LCD monitors running without the boards hooked up. That clicking sound is a clue and most likely is a power rail trying to kick in.
See if you can isolate as to where it is coming from. I found the 470uF cap problem by heating up caps one by one with a hair dryer so maybe you can try that. But I've found that when there is a clicking, a semiconductor has failed, not a heat sensitive cap that will increase in value when hotter.
Thanks.

I disconnected the TCON and inverter boards, and tried to power it on just with the supply and main board...same result. I then disconnected and removed the main board, put it back in and reconnected the TCON and inverter, and it fired right up. Very strange, but it's been working all weekend. I'm guessing maybe a cable wasn't connected very well, time will tell.
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