Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 209 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6241 of 6250 Old 03-18-2015, 12:04 PM
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"Are there any reliable IN CIRCUIT esr testers?"

I use the Peak Atlas ESR70. You can probably get one for around $120 USD on eBay.
It will display both ESR and Capacitance.
I have found many bad caps in-circuit with it, including C51 in my TX-47F430S
How ever,"reliable" is a relative term. In-circuit testing will always have a degree of inaccuracy.

http://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/jz_esr70.html
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post #6242 of 6250 Unread 04-28-2015, 12:25 AM
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Finally had a chance to get some pics. Anyone ever see anything like this?







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post #6243 of 6250 Unread 04-28-2015, 10:20 PM
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I've never seen that on my LCD TV. If those dark or discolored areas don't move, I can only suspect that the display has been damaged possibly by being frozen or heat. If the spots don't move but do change colors it could be that certain transistors on that pixel are not working...think RGB on each dot. That's all I can come up with.
Anyone else?
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post #6244 of 6250 Unread 04-28-2015, 11:07 PM
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There is no color change. Only black lines.
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post #6245 of 6250 Unread 04-30-2015, 05:21 PM
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"There is no color change. Only black lines."

The photos show darkened horizontal rows 1 pixel wide across the entire screen. That suggests a poorly connected cable from the TV to the screen.
The TV glass screen is connected to the rest of the TV with 2 broad ribbon cables. One along the top and the other along the right or left side. They control horizontal and vertical lines in the TV screen. The intersection of these horizontal and vertical lines form a matrix of pixels. Each pixel sits on one vertical and one horizontal line. Usually these flat cables are made of polyimide, a clear orange flexible plastic.
As I posted earlier, these cables are connected to the screen with anisotropic paste or tape. This adhesive can dry out and become lose. When it does, control lines will lose electrical contact, resulting in vertical or horizontal dropout lines. This problem is more common in cheaper TV's form China. Watch out ones with unrecognizable brand names or manufactured autonomously for companies like Westinghouse.
This is a very frustrating problem, since there is no way for the average person to fix it, at least not that I have been able to find.

Since the main logic board is the ultimate driver for these control signals, a problem in the main board must also be considered. The best way to trouble shoot the main board would be to swap it out for another and see what happens. Given the high cost of a replacement board and the low probability of success, it is probably not worth doing.
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post #6246 of 6250 Unread 05-06-2015, 11:57 AM
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I need a copy of the firmware for the tx42f430s if any of you have it please upload it. or send it to Thriskisska @ yahoo .com
I'm a new poster so can't post e-mail proper. Thanks for your time
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post #6247 of 6250 Unread 07-12-2015, 01:17 PM
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TX-47 here purchased 6-7 yrs ago.

For the last year or so every once in a while it would get all glitchy contrast. Sometimes just restarting the set would fix it and sometimes not until it cooled off for a while unplugged. A few months ago, the picture would just shut off completely after warming up (30-60min). Still have sound.. it seems to be just the backlights so I'm assuming inverter board. I've read through much of this thread but I would appreciate some assistance. I have everything taken apart and all the capacitors I can see look fine. Is there any way to determine which inverter board it is or if it's somewhere with the power supply? I can turn it on and use it without problem for up to about an hour and then it will have to cool down again.
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post #6248 of 6250 Unread 07-13-2015, 06:44 AM
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I don't know about your problem but I found that bad capacitor problem using a hair dryer to heat up specific areas on the PC boards. I started with the power supply and then moved to the main board where I localized it to one cap that caused the set to come on when heated. I've used this technique before to find components sensitive to heat by heating them gently until they fail but never in reverse like I did with the capacitor. A seller on eBay was kind enough to share that with me so I shared ir here.
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post #6249 of 6250 Unread 07-14-2015, 07:53 PM
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Thanks for the troubleshooting tip. I'll remember that. One more update on my problem.. when the screen shuts down the light goes back from blue to amber (didn't notice this before). It won't respond to any attempt to turn it on until it has been unplugged and allowed to cool off.
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post #6250 of 6250 Unread Today, 02:50 PM
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Would anyone happen to have a copy of the SusanII 1.2.0 and 1.4.0 firmware for the Westinghouse TX-42F430S they could make available? Ekztal's custom firmware includes a file called "update_WDE42.tgz" but I have the Trident CX revision of the TV that will only flash with "update_LCD1080CX.tgz" The TV I picked up (and recapped) is at FW 1.1.0. I found 1.3.0 but I can't flash to it without doing 1.2.0 first. The WDE.com site appears to be down and Westinghouse has completely disowned this model. The ghosting problem is truly awful at the moment. I tried flashing directly to 1.3.0 but it didn't take - the TV system properties still show 1.1.0 but now none of the HDMI inputs works!
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470uf cap , Westinghouse Tx 42f430s 42 Inch Lcd Hdtv , westinghouse tx-47f430s
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