Official Sony XBR4/XBR5 calibration thread - Page 86 - AVS Forum
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post #2551 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by topsy05 View Post

Anyone??

Use either Custom or Cinema (whichever one you aren't using for Marc's settings), and try the setting in post 2457. It cuts out all advanced options except ace (which you can also cut if necessary). These settings are very sharp as well. Try using CM auto2 and ME high -- it's a great combo.
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post #2552 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by petej88 View Post

Use either Custom or Cinema (whichever one you aren't using for Marc's settings), and try the setting in post 2457. It cuts out all advanced options except ace (which you can also cut if necessary). These settings are very sharp as well. Try using CM auto2 and ME high -- it's a great combo.

I've noticed that CM auto 2 isn't quite as sharp as CM auto 1. Auto 2 seems to have graininess to it that Auto 1 doesn't have. Have you noticed that?

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post #2553 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ciccio View Post

Question to vumcrab, Smith 77 and petej88:

We know Cinemotion Auto1 or Auto2 performs a 3:2 pulldown on film-based 1080i/60 sources but does it work on (progressive) film-based 1080p/60 sources (i.e. HD DVD players before they had 24p output)? Thanks in advance.

Sorry Ciccio i was just reading over my last post I jacked that up. I was all over the place on that one. this is a much better to the point post on the subject rather than that babbling mess I posted earlier. Reverse 3:2 pulldown was designed to detect and remove 2-3 pulldown from interlaced video sources, thereby reconstructing the original 24 frame/s film frames.If the source does not contain 3/2 pulldown, such as a 1080p/60 or video source,,,, or a 1080p/24 film-base, ME adds either one interpolated frame (1080p/60) or four interpolated frames (1080p/24) to each source frame to reach the 120Hz refresh rate required by the set's 120Hz operation. If you turn the Motion Enhancer off, each source frame is simply repeated as many times as needed to get to 120Hz, with no interpolation. There is no 3:2 pulldown contained in in 1080p/60 content, in turn there is no need for Cinemotion reverse 3:2pulldown.
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post #2554 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GeneWildersHair View Post

Thank you for your reply. I've spent some time calibrating for comcast, and my video noise problem. I'm not sure but I think the black corrector added to it. I have since turned every advanced setting off except for CE, (which I left on low). Then my picture settings are as follows:

picture: 80 (I think that it adds to the video noise when I turn it up)
brightness:54
color:46
backlight:4
temp: neutral

This seems to help with my local comcast's compression issues.Again thanks. By the way, are you currently using any of the detail or edge enhancers?

I used to use DE and EE, but I never could really tell that it made that much diff. in the PQ. It may help with SD material, but with the exception of watching Comedy Central, most of my viewing is HD now.

One feature I do like and play with some times is Power Savings on LOW. When I use that, I'll turn backlight up to 7-8 (normally on 3) and I like the effect. I agree with others that it enhances shadow detail a bit.

Thnaks for sharing your settings.
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post #2555 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullet94 View Post

I had the same problem to which I posted on the owners thread several times. I had a Sony Tech come out to my house and he heard the problem but did not know what caused it, or how to fix it (I was not going to let him tear apart my TV not knowing what he was doing). After receiving a letter from Sony about the service call, I gave the service low ratings, I received a call from Sony. I spoke with a guy who advised it was a "tin can" effect (whatever the h*ll that is). He stated it should go away shortly. I purchased my set from ABT and called them next. I was slightly over my 30 days but they replaced my Aug. set with one that was built in Oct. (ABT's costumer service is excellent). Well, the Oct. set made the same noises as you described and same as my Aug. set. It has been a few months now and the pops and snaps are not as frequent as before, but they are still there. I will give it another month and if the problem persists, I will call Sony or ABT. Please let me know how things go.

The "tin can" or "oil can" effect is used to describe a sound that a tin can would make if you pressed it in on the sides and it popped back into place to it's original shape. Kinda like squeezing the sides of a 2 liter bottle of Coke and when it springs back into its original shape, you get the "pop" or "snap" sound.

Exactly what part of the tv is doing that, I don't know, but it almost sounds like Sony was trying to say the tv is breaking itself in by expanding thru use and after a period of time, all parts have expanded to their max shape and size. It sounds like the noise you hear is when you touch a pair of jumper cables to the terminals of a car battery and you get the spark. Is that right?
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post #2556 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EADGBE View Post

I've noticed that CM auto 2 isn't quite as sharp as CM auto 1. Auto 2 seems to have graininess to it that Auto 1 doesn't have. Have you noticed that?

Auto2/high definitely has a different algorithm but handles motion better I believe. For example, it stopped the jerky ticker tape on espn when I switched from std/auto1 to high/auto2.
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post #2557 of 5494 Old 02-20-2008, 11:44 PM
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OK, I believe I finally have my 52" XBR4 exactly were I want it and I've mustered up the courage to post my settings here for you all to pick apart.

First let me say a big THANKS to lrsteven's because it is his settings in which mine are based. Basically, I took his settings and adjusted them to my liking. Although his settings were very nice, I felt there was too much color (overly saturated) and tinted a little to the warm/red side a tad. I only referenced his HDMI 1080p24 Blu-Ray/PS3 settings.

Here goes:

HDMI - (Blu-ray via PS3/Satellite via Dish Network ViP-722)

Mode: Custom
Backlight: 4
Picture: 85 (lrstevens had this set to 95, which was too bright to me and it felt as though whites were getting blown out).
Brightness: 53 (I needed just a tad bit more detail in the shadows).
Color: 53 (lestevens had this set in the area of 62 range and and that was WAY too much color for me. Skin tones were more of a bright pink than they were light peach.)
Hue: 0 - Middle
Color Temp: Warm 1 (Warm 1 has less red than Warm 2. I, myself, cannot ever see myself going back to Warm 2. I did several tests switching back and forth between 1 & 2 and, while paying attention to whites, Warm 2 added a tint of red and Warm 1 looked like more of a pure white to me.)
Sharpness: 45
Noise Reduction: Off
Mpeg Noise Reduction: Off
DRC: Off
Black Corrector: Off
ACE: Off
Gamma: Off
Clear White: Off
Color Space: Standard
Live Color: Off

White Balance:
I might go back and play with these. Not sure yet.
Red Gain: 0
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 0
Red Bias: 0
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias: 0

Detail Enhancer: Low
Edge Enhancer: Off
Motion Enhancer: Depends on the content.
I'll likely experiement with this one further.
Cinemotion: Auto2
Video Color Space (x.v.color): Normal
Color Matrix: Auto
Game/Text: Off
Light Sensor: Off
Display Area: Full Pixel


I would say that I was really looking for a more "real" look than an extra flashy "poppy" look. With a few of these settings dialed down, I feel I was able to dial in more on flash tones while still getting the clarity from Blu-Ray. I am happy with the look that I get from both Satellite HD and Blu-Ray now.

Feedback welcomed.

Chet
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post #2558 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 03:54 AM
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ALRIGHTY... I've done some pretty extensive testing on my PS3 40"xbr4 set up with the movie SUPERBAD on SD DVD and BLU-RAY. It's actually amazing what cinemotion and motion enhancer will do to some signals. The PS3 is pretty cool to work with since you can tell it what signal to output or at least you can tell it what your TV supports. For first two tests I used the SD DVD and set the output to 480P and then 1080P. Pressing the DISPLAY button on the XBR4 remote with the Info Banner ON under General and it will tell you what source format the TV is getting. So with a Blu-ray disc it will show 1080/24P.
To see the most dramatic effect of what CM and ME does I replayed this scene over and over again. A-B repeat is great for comparing CM/ME setting. This is a slow motions pan over a white sign with black lettering:
http://www.camaro327.com/000/XBR4/21.mov
You can totally see a distinct difference in the various sources and settings of CM and ME. Sorry, I don’t think I could capture what I’m seeing with my camera since the frame rate of my camera is only either 15 or 30fps

Conclusion:
No matter what CE is set to, ME will modify the motion on Standard and High for ALL source inputs unless GAME MODE is ON. That’s why ME is otherwise available to set.
From what I’ve seen with the 1080/24p source it seems CM=Auto2 equals CM=Off. So Auto2 doesn't turn ME off, it seems to switch CM OFF automatically when a 1080/24p signal is detected.

Here’s a break down of comments for this scene only… that is watching the correction of the judder that happens to the ladys head band/forehead line and the shakiness of the sign text as the camera pans.


the blue fields are my picks for best over all correction and when I comment about being out of sync that refers to the rest of the movie.
I doubt I'd ever use Auto1/HIGH since it just adds too much noise around other motions within the movie and seems totally out of sync at times.
I wish I was better at explaining what I'm seeing, i'd just end up confusing my self trying to express it. CM/ME does seem to have the most dramatic effect of thr 480P signal, dramatic meaning that you can totally see what the correction is doing in realtime... for the first second the text is shaking like crazy and then it totally smooths out. Thats the blending i refer to... However i'd rather it be just a little shaky over the whole pan rather than a crazy shaky for 1 second then ultra smooth the next as it does in 480P/Auto1/High. Cause my eyes will pick that up much quicker.

XBR-55X850, KDL-40XBR4 8000+ hours
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post #2559 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vath View Post


the blue fields are my picks for best over all correction and when I comment about being out of sync that refers to the rest of the movie.
I doubt I'd ever use Auto1/HIGH since it just adds too much noise around other motions within the movie and seems totally out of sync at times.
I wish I was better at explaining what I'm seeing, i'd just end up confusing my self trying to express it. CM/ME does seem to have the most dramatic effect of thr 480P signal, dramatic meaning that you can totally see what the correction is doing in realtime... for the first second the text is shaking like crazy and then is totally smooths out. Thats the blending i refer to... However i'd rather it be just a little shaky over the whole pan rather that a crazy shaky for 1 second then ultra smooth the next as it does in 480P/Auto/High. Cause my eyes will pick that up much quicker.

Thanks for the info. Very interesting.
Your results compare with my simple observations as well.
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post #2560 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by petej88 View Post

Thanks for the info. Very interesting.
Your results compare with my simple observations as well.

Yeah I agree, that was a good post. His mention of "noise" with some of the Auto2 settings is probably what I was seeing but I called it "graininess."

So then the moral of this story is to keep CM, ME, and all the advanced features off all time. Just use the basic settings to tweak the picture.

What I did is I made a combo of Larone & Marc's settings and use that on Standard with DRC on, then I did a slightly different version of that with DRC off and put that on Custom. Then on Cinema I use Larone's settings exactly - except with Warm1. Depending on what I'm watching I'll switch between the 3 and I always seem to find one setting I can be happy with.

I'm also so used to watching everything with Auto1/Std that if I turn it off, it looks weird to me now.

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post #2561 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 06:57 AM
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Thank you all - esp Bullet94 and vumcrab:

I am quite certain that this noise is not thermal expansion of cabinet parts, as it just doesn't stop over time and is quite an alarming sound. It sounds like loud static - definitely electrical in nature. It does not coincide with the heat in the house cycling on (which is electric: I had thought of that originally).

As you said from the manual: "If a snapping or popping sound from the TV is continuous or frequent while the TV is operating, unplug the TV and consult your dealer or service technician. It it is normal for some TV's to make occasional snapping or popping sounds, particularly when being turned on or off." - Well, that's what I'm doing - consulting my dealer/tech. I understand some TVs, including my old one, would make this noise when being turned on or off or when changing inputs, but this one is fairly constant.

Thanks for your info people. I am having a "tech" come check it out this coming Monday, and if he can't fix it, I'm returning it. Tweeter has a 60-day defective return policy, and this falls under that, I believe.
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post #2562 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EADGBE View Post

Yeah I agree, that was a good post. His mention of "noise" with some of the Auto2 settings is probably what I was seeing but I called it "graininess."

So then the moral of this story is to keep CM, ME, and all the advanced features off all time. Just use the basic settings to tweak the picture.

What I did is I made a combo of Larone & Marc's settings and use that on Standard with DRC on, then I did a slightly different version of that with DRC off and put that on Custom. Then on Cinema I use Larone's settings exactly - except with Warm1. Depending on what I'm watching I'll switch between the 3 and I always seem to find one setting I can be happy with.

I'm also so used to watching everything with Auto1/Std that if I turn it off, it looks weird to me now.

I did something similar. I have a settings based somewhat on lrstevens for cinema and I have marc's settings in custom. I can get almost identical pop to to cinema mode though if you see my settings on post 2457-page 82.

Nothing's wrong with liking std/auto1. I like to think it optimizes picture while high/auto2 optimizes motion.
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post #2563 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 07:27 AM
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OK, so if I turn off CM and ME completely do I get 5:5 on Blu-ray 1080P/24? That's all I need to know.

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post #2564 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ToddUGA View Post

OK, so if I turn off CM and ME completely do I get 5:5 on Blu-ray 1080P/24? That's all I need to know.

I believe so. Turning off cm/me shuts down all interpolation for 5:5 to function.

Sound and Vision take on it:
When ME is off, the TV simply repeats each video frame in a 60 Hz HDTV signal to fill out the 120 Hz refresh rate. When ME is on, it detects whether a source is film (24 fps) or video based & interpolates the required new frames instead of just repeating the existing ones.
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post #2565 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petej88 View Post

I believe so. Turning off cm/me shuts down all interpolation for 5:5 to function.

Sound and Vision take on it:
When ME is off, the TV simply repeats each video frame in a 60 Hz HDTV signal to fill out the 120 Hz refresh rate. When ME is on, it detects whether a source is film (24 fps) or video based & interpolates the required new frames instead of just repeating the existing ones.

Thanks for the info.

Right now I believe I have mine set up so that CM is on Auto1 and ME is set to off for Blu-ray. I turned off CM as well once but it didn't seem to make a difference so I just left it on Auto1.

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post #2566 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by callmeash View Post

Thank you all - esp Bullet94 and vumcrab:

I am quite certain that this noise is not thermal expansion of cabinet parts, as it just doesn't stop over time and is quite an alarming sound. It sounds like loud static - definitely electrical in nature. It does not coincide with the heat in the house cycling on (which is electric: I had thought of that originally).

As you said from the manual: "If a snapping or popping sound from the TV is continuous or frequent while the TV is operating, unplug the TV and consult your dealer or service technician. It it is normal for some TV's to make occasional snapping or popping sounds, particularly when being turned on or off." - Well, that's what I'm doing - consulting my dealer/tech. I understand some TVs, including my old one, would make this noise when being turned on or off or when changing inputs, but this one is fairly constant.

Thanks for your info people. I am having a "tech" come check it out this coming Monday, and if he can't fix it, I'm returning it. Tweeter has a 60-day defective return policy, and this falls under that, I believe.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out for you. 60 days is a nice insurance policy
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post #2567 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddUGA View Post

Thanks for the info.

Right now I believe I have mine set up so that CM is on Auto1 and ME is set to off for Blu-ray. I turned off CM as well once but it didn't seem to make a difference so I just left it on Auto1.

Yes, turning off just ME is all that is required. Above I accidentally included CM.
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post #2568 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 09:40 AM
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Hi,

Does anyone have any good calibration setting for the PC input?

I own a XBR4 40"

Thanks in advance!

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They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with.
Some men just want to watch the world burn."

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post #2569 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vath View Post

ALRIGHTY... I've done some pretty extensive testing on my PS3 40"xbr4 set up with the movie SUPERBAD on SD DVD and BLU-RAY. It's actually amazing what cinemotion and motion enhancer will do to some signals. The PS3 is pretty cool to work with since you can tell it what signal to output or at least you can tell it what your TV supports. For first two tests I used the SD DVD and set the output to 480P and then 1080P. Pressing the DISPLAY button on the XBR4 remote with the Info Banner ON under General and it will tell you what source format the TV is getting. So with a Blu-ray disc it will show 1080/24P.
To see the most dramatic effect of what CM and ME does I replayed this scene over and over again. A-B repeat is great for comparing CM/ME setting. This is a slow motions pan over a white sign with black lettering:
http://www.camaro327.com/000/XBR4/21.mov
You can totally see a distinct difference in the various sources and settings of CM and ME. Sorry, I don't think I could capture what I'm seeing with my camera since the frame rate of my camera is only either 15 or 30fps

Conclusion:
No matter what CE is set to, ME will modify the motion on Standard and High for ALL source inputs unless GAME MODE is ON. That's why ME is otherwise available to set.
From what I've seen with the 1080/24p source it seems CM=Auto2 equals CM=Off. So Auto2 doesn't turn ME off, it seems to switch CM OFF automatically when a 1080/24p signal is detected.

Here's a break down of comments for this scene only that is watching the correction of the judder that happens to the ladys head band/forehead line and the shakiness of the sign text as the camera pans.


the blue fields are my picks for best over all correction and when I comment about being out of sync that refers to the rest of the movie.
I doubt I'd ever use Auto1/HIGH since it just adds too much noise around other motions within the movie and seems totally out of sync at times.
I wish I was better at explaining what I'm seeing, i'd just end up confusing my self trying to express it. CM/ME does seem to have the most dramatic effect of thr 480P signal, dramatic meaning that you can totally see what the correction is doing in realtime... for the first second the text is shaking like crazy and then it totally smooths out. Thats the blending i refer to... However i'd rather it be just a little shaky over the whole pan rather than a crazy shaky for 1 second then ultra smooth the next as it does in 480P/Auto1/High. Cause my eyes will pick that up much quicker.

Thanks for taking the time to do that vath.
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post #2570 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 11:02 AM
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Proud new owner of a KDL52W3000 LCD and am looking for some guidance on picture adjustment. (First time LCD owner)
I have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD cable/dvr from Time Warner (which provides 1080i, 720p and 480i signals depending on the channel), and an upscaling DVD (1080p). Both devices are connected via HDMI directly to the LCD. I understand that the settings are the same/similar for XBR4/5's so I got the "XBR4/5 Settings Matrix: Comparison" spreadsheet ( http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...w_BNwN--x3mCMQ) Should I choose one group of settings and then tweak it to my liking? Which group would you suggest? Which settings should I tweak?
Thank you.
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post #2571 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 11:22 AM
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For those of us still playing with Cinemotion and Motion Enhancer...no new info to report beyond what some of the previous posts have stated, but I did find an ideal scene to test the different settings.

If you have the HD version of Stardust (good flick btw...). At the very beginning, after the first few moments, there is a scene where the scientist is looking through a telescope. After he looks through, he then walks over to a desk and sits down. At the same time, another scientist walks towards the desk. As the second scientist gets the the desk, the screen pans back to the original scientist sitting at the desk. If you can set your player to repeat the pan A/B, it's a perfect scene to use.

You can really get a good gauge for what works best for you with this scene. As you change settings, you can see some significant differences in Judder, 3D effect, etc....

Hope it helps.
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post #2572 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FritzS View Post

Proud new owner of a KDL52W3000 LCD and am looking for some guidance on picture adjustment. (First time LCD owner)
I have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD cable/dvr from Time Warner (which provides 1080i, 720p and 480i signals depending on the channel), and an upscaling DVD (1080p). Both devices are connected via HDMI directly to the LCD. I understand that the settings are the same/similar for XBR4/5's so I got the "XBR4/5 Settings Matrix: Comparison" spreadsheet ( http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...w_BNwN--x3mCMQ) Should I choose one group of settings and then tweak it to my liking? Which group would you suggest? Which settings should I tweak?
Thank you.

Absolutely...most of us have utilized someone elses posted settings and then made adjustments from there. As far as which ones to use, there are some things to consider...the most important being what you like. If you prefer the brighter, cooler look (like what you see in most of the stores), then choose one that uses a Neutral or Cool Temperature setting (I think there is one of each of these). If you like more realistic tones, then the settings that utilize Warm1 or Warm2 are the way to go. Most of us have chosen at least 2 "pet" settings and alternate depending on what we are watching.

I would also suggest you check out some of the later postings after that spreadsheet was compiled...depending on your tastes for color, black level, detail, etc...there are some REALLY good settings posted. I believe BPLewis has some updated ones around page 39 of the thread, LRStevens (my choice across the board) is in the 57-62 page range), and a more recent posting from Marc D Cara has some real benefit as well.

If you're just getting started...good luck. I've had a blast tweaking the set...but (as evidenced by the length of this thread) you can also find yourself bordering on OCD with this stuff....
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post #2573 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 11:41 AM
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Folks, I wonder if any of you have experienced buzz coming from the speakers on 52xbr4. It's rather annoying, in particular when sound levels are low. It is not present when input is set to HDMI2 or HDMI3 (no matter whether anything is connected to those inputs), but is there on HDMI1 and all other inputs (TV, Video, etc). There is no dependence of intensity of that buzz on volume settings (naturally, it disappears when volume is set to Min., but is omnipresent with volume levels from 1 to 99).

It's not related to any cables (it doesn't change when nothing is connected to the TV), and has nothing to do with dirty power (which runs through a good filter/conditioner).

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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post #2574 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by petej88 View Post

Use either Custom or Cinema (whichever one you aren't using for Marc's settings), and try the setting in post 2457. It cuts out all advanced options except ace (which you can also cut if necessary). These settings are very sharp as well. Try using CM auto2 and ME high -- it's a great combo.

Thanks, Pete! I will try em' out.
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post #2575 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vumcrab View Post

The "tin can" or "oil can" effect is used to describe a sound that a tin can would make if you pressed it in on the sides and it popped back into place to it's original shape. Kinda like squeezing the sides of a 2 liter bottle of Coke and when it springs back into its original shape, you get the "pop" or "snap" sound.

Exactly what part of the tv is doing that, I don't know, but it almost sounds like Sony was trying to say the tv is breaking itself in by expanding thru use and after a period of time, all parts have expanded to their max shape and size. It sounds like the noise you hear is when you touch a pair of jumper cables to the terminals of a car battery and you get the spark. Is that right?

Some thing a long those lines. The best way to put it is it's like an electrical "snap" noise. More than a few people in these threads have made mention to this problem. I look foward to hearing from callmeash regarding the Monday appointment.

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post #2576 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by petej88 View Post

I did something similar. I have a settings based somewhat on lrstevens for cinema and I have marc's settings in custom. I can get almost identical pop to to cinema mode though if you see my settings on post 2457-page 82.

Nothing's wrong with liking std/auto1. I like to think it optimizes picture while high/auto2 optimizes motion.

That's very true: auto1/std makes the picture look sharper but more like video and auto2/high does give very natural motion but more noise. Your settings are similar to what I'm using if I want more pop then Larone's settings:



Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: 8
Picture: 85
Brightness: 50
Color: 55
Hue: 0
Color temp: Warm 1
Sharpness: 60
Noise reduction: Off
MPEG noise reduction: Off
DRC mode: Off (or Mode 1 can look good, depending)

Advanced Settings
Black corrector: Low (If I want more detail I'll switch to Larone's on Cinema)
Advanced C.E: Low
Gamma: Low
Clear white: Off
Color space: Wide (Some programs look better on Standard or I just switch to Cinema)
Live color: Low (Sometimes I turn this off)
Detail enhancer: Low
Edge enhancer: Low

White Balance
R-Gain: -1
G-Gain: -4
B-Gain: 0
R-Bias: 0
G-Bias: -3
B-Bias: 0


Motion Enhancer: Std
CineMotion: Auto1

Power saving: Off
Light sensor: Off
Game mode: Off

edit - these settings were a work in progress and I'm not using them so much anymore.

52XBR4
55HX929
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post #2577 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweetguy View Post

Sorry if this question is out of place -- I cannot get my 52xbr4 to display any closed captions. I have turned them on from the button on the remote and I have set both analog and digital to CC1 on the CC settings. I am running HDMI from a Time Warner Motorola cable box.

Any ideas?

I've read somewhere that CC does not travel over HDMI. That's not the "official" technical explanation for it, but I think there are posts on CC over HDMI and how it does not work.
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post #2578 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 01:48 PM
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Okay guys I'm trying get a better grab on this, hoping for some help I get what 3:2 pull down does converting film to video. what about 5:5 and reverse 3:2 in CM on our sets what is 5:5?
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post #2579 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by vath View Post

ALRIGHTY... I've done some pretty extensive testing on my PS3 40"xbr4 ...

Nice testing, vath! This really helps. I personally find Auto2/Standard to be the best from my Onkyo SR875 at 1080p (it does all the deinterlacing and 3:2 pulldown) but according to your chart, you find Auto2/High to be best ... I'll try it out tonight!

Cheers.
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post #2580 of 5494 Old 02-21-2008, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bricklayerharp View Post

Okay guys I'm trying get a better grab on this, hoping for some help I get what 3:2 pull down does converting film to video. what about 5:5 and reverse 3:2 in CM on our sets what is 5:5?

It all easily figured out mathematically. Straight pull downs for example::: A 72Hz set does 3:3Pulldown( 3x 24=72) …………96Hz TV does a 4:4………..120Hz like ours do a straight 5:5pulldown(5x25=120) , these are examples of straight pulldowns, but it will also take film to video 60i and convert it to 24p, then display it at 120hz 5:5 With cinemotion engaged. Cinemotion detects 3:2 pulldown present in sources were film (24fps) has been converted to video(30 fps) Cinemotion then reverses the origina 3:2 pulldown to reconstruct original frames and rate at 24fps (film rate). This is also 5:5….. 24p input is best for true 5:5.. the latter can be sloppy, but its all about synchronizing to 24fps multiples with the tvs refresh rate with the least amount of funk which is 1080p/24 input.
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