Official Sony XBR4/5 Owners Thread(NO PRICE TALK) - Page 401 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12001 of 12025 Old 03-05-2015, 01:40 PM
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Any place to download the firmware other than Sony? I think my dad fried his plugging in a chromecast today.
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post #12002 of 12025 Old 07-24-2015, 06:55 PM
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Used Prices Puzzle

Hello fellow KDLXBR owners.

I have had my KDL52XBR5 since 2008 and it still works great. I recently looked into selling it and was shocked at the demand and prices these sets are fetching for a 7 year old TV. Is it just me or is this unusual?

I've seen these snapped right up at $600 or so with no sitting time. I figured with the advancement in panel tech and dropping prices for TVs in general, that the going price for it would be a lot less. Does this model have some sort of cultish following or something?

I also noticed far less demand and sales prices for the proceeding models, like the KDLXBR6+ (they did away with the floating glass design). Perhaps the design and look has something to do with it? I must admit that it is a great looking TV just sitting there powered off. I've not see a better looking design since. I've since upgraded to 4k Samsung TVs and have no real need for it. I do have a sort of nostalgic attachment to it and seeing this odd bit of demand for it makes me want to hold onto it for myself, even though that makes no logical sense.
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post #12003 of 12025 Old 08-05-2015, 12:55 PM
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I have the 40 inch XBR4 and mine is going strong still too! The only thing I've noticed is a bit of a dark/reddish trail that rears it's head during hockey games at times. Messing with picture settings will generally alleviate it for the most part.

Regarding the value - I had a tech in my house when they had a recall on one of the components that could start a fire. He took the tv apart and did the test while talking about the quality of this particular model the whole time. He said the Standard Def converter in this TV is crazy high quality and expensive - and TV makers don't use the same converter any more as there really is no need - I think ours is the last model to use it. I have compared watching laserdiscs on this TV vs a newer model and the older one wins hands down to my eyes. This is all what the tech told me so I'm passing the info on second hand - but maybe that offers some insight to the value. I wasn't aware they were fetching good coin still. Good to hear. It's a great looking set and I hope mine lasts!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamlet00 View Post
Hello fellow KDLXBR owners.

I have had my KDL52XBR5 since 2008 and it still works great. I recently looked into selling it and was shocked at the demand and prices these sets are fetching for a 7 year old TV. Is it just me or is this unusual?

I've seen these snapped right up at $600 or so with no sitting time. I figured with the advancement in panel tech and dropping prices for TVs in general, that the going price for it would be a lot less. Does this model have some sort of cultish following or something?

I also noticed far less demand and sales prices for the proceeding models, like the KDLXBR6+ (they did away with the floating glass design). Perhaps the design and look has something to do with it? I must admit that it is a great looking TV just sitting there powered off. I've not see a better looking design since. I've since upgraded to 4k Samsung TVs and have no real need for it. I do have a sort of nostalgic attachment to it and seeing this odd bit of demand for it makes me want to hold onto it for myself, even though that makes no logical sense.
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post #12004 of 12025 Old 12-31-2015, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davelr View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Bullet94

Thanks, but it is a 46". I wonder if the screws are the same for your 52". If you could figure out the size/diameter of the screws (the ones that hold the tv to the base) it would be much appreciated.

Two pics, one of 52" stand for comparison, one closeup of screw. The screw is metric, namely an M5 x 0.8mm pitch. The good thing is that if this isn't available, a 10x32 is a good replacement. Just a little smaller in diameter so it will be a tiny bit looser, but you'd still get good thread engagement.
Other dimensions:
#1 phillips pan head - probably not important you could use any available head
overall length 5/8"
both a split ring and flat washer
effective thread length 3/8"

Hope this helps.

For anyone looking for these (like me) they are the M5x16
Sony part # 2-580-608-01
That will get you the screw + washers.

Sony 2-580-608-01 Screw +Psw M5x16

Edit: I went to Home Depot and picked up the pan head M5x16 stainless screws and matching stainless flat and split washers all for for $3. Fits perfect. Need to search for a larger outer diameter washer to look more like the Sony combo but this setup works.

Last edited by PlasmaMan; 01-01-2016 at 08:43 AM.
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post #12005 of 12025 Old 05-06-2016, 02:46 PM
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I got an email today reminding me about the 2011 safety issue with the 40" Bravia TVs. It said if the TV was already inspected there was no need to do it again, but I couldn't remember if I had done it or not. I had to go back and check this thread to see that, yes, I had done it.

I have no idea why they are sending out a reminder 5 years later. Here's the email:

https://esupport.sony.com/perl/news-...=1&region_id=1
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post #12006 of 12025 Old 12-23-2016, 07:32 AM
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Wow, so I have a 46" XBR4 which has been sitting in my living room unused for the last 2 years.

Shortly after powering on, the screen will begin to flicker black until it's completely black rendering it unusable. Audio still plays fine and this is on every input.

On a whim, I emailed Sony support yesterday and they responded with some canned troubleshooting steps. I did the factory reset, and amazingly it fixed my problem. Merry Christmas!
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post #12007 of 12025 Old 12-23-2016, 07:38 AM
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Happy Festivous!
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post #12008 of 12025 Old 12-23-2016, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFP View Post
Wow, so I have a 46" XBR4 which has been sitting in my living room unused for the last 2 years.

Shortly after powering on, the screen will begin to flicker black until it's completely black rendering it unusable. Audio still plays fine and this is on every input.

On a whim, I emailed Sony support yesterday and they responded with some canned troubleshooting steps. I did the factory reset, and amazingly it fixed my problem. Merry Christmas!
Great new and great to know Sony was still in the game on that. Mine is in my bedroom and gets almost daily evening use and still keeps ticking.

"The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow."
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post #12009 of 12025 Old 12-23-2016, 11:13 PM
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Press and hold the up arrow button on the remote control. ...
While holding the up arrow button, press and release the Power on button on the side of the TV. ...
Release the up arrow button on the remote control and wait for the TV to reset.
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post #12010 of 12025 Old 12-25-2016, 10:09 PM
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So oddly enough, after beginning calibration again, my XBR4 started exhibited the same flickering into blackout issues. I factory reset it again, and settled on a fairly basic calibration (no advanced or white balance). It has been solid since so it looks like it's related to changing white balance settings.
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post #12011 of 12025 Old 01-05-2017, 03:11 PM
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This may be the wrong Forum to ask...

I have a KDL52XBR4 that I bought in early '06 and its still working great.
I've been thinking about getting a ROKU or something like it but unsure if the Sony's HDMI inputs will have any issues. Thinking about the Ultra. Can't find any info on the HDMI spec.

I believe it can be set to 1080p and should work directly into the Sony.

Or Hook it to my Onkyo TX-NR809 then to the Sony, Its HDMI 1.4

Thanks.
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post #12012 of 12025 Old 01-05-2017, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt View Post
This may be the wrong Forum to ask...

I have a KDL52XBR4 that I bought in early '06 and its still working great.
I've been thinking about getting a ROKU or something like it but unsure if the Sony's HDMI inputs will have any issues. Thinking about the Ultra. Can't find any info on the HDMI spec.

I believe it can be set to 1080p and should work directly into the Sony.

Or Hook it to my Onkyo TX-NR809 then to the Sony, Its HDMI 1.4

Thanks.
I have Roku 2XS, or something, on my 46 and it works fine...
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post #12013 of 12025 Old 01-05-2017, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haudidoody View Post
I have Roku 2XS, or something, on my 46 and it works fine...
Thanks,

I should also add that we get our internet wirelessly so right now my download speeds:
Ping is 80ms
Dn load is 6 Mpbs
Upload is 1 Mbps

Not sure how that will affect using a Roku?
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post #12014 of 12025 Old 01-05-2017, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt View Post
Thanks,

I should also add that we get our internet wirelessly so right now my download speeds:
Ping is 80ms
Dn load is 6 Mpbs
Upload is 1 Mbps

Not sure how that will affect using a Roku?
That would be ugly with that download speed.

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post #12015 of 12025 Old 01-16-2017, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFP View Post
So oddly enough, after beginning calibration again, my XBR4 started exhibited the same flickering into blackout issues. I factory reset it again, and settled on a fairly basic calibration (no advanced or white balance). It has been solid since so it looks like it's related to changing white balance settings.
I spoke too soon. After 30 minutes or so, the same flickering -> blackout issue occurred. I ended up buying a replacement T-CON board off eBay for $9 and swapped out the original yesterday. 6 hours of use in and no more flickering/blackout.
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post #12016 of 12025 Old 08-18-2017, 12:01 PM
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Murphy's Law hit me hard this week. On Sunday, I said to my wife, "Y'know, our TV (KDL-52XBR4) has been rock-solid for ten years--never had a problem with it!". I had never said a thing about the TV's reliability at all in the past ten years.

So, naturally, I come home on Monday night to this:

[never mind, I can't post links or images yet since I have zero posts, even though my account is from 2008 I have attached the images below, which is probably better anyways.]

But the internet is an amazing thing. Earlier this year I learned how to repair my microwave, and now, I can fix TVs. I ended up having to replace the T-con board. It cost under $100 (and can be found used on eBay for like $30 if you want to go that route) and bam--the TV is working flawlessly again.

Just wanted to post this here for anyone else that ends up trying to solve a similar problem in the future. Thank you to AVS Forum members for the valuable insight--searching the web for this problem ends up with a lot of threads pointing back here!

[I can't post a link to the part, but I got it from ShopJimmy. Sold as "Samsung LJ94-01944H (404652FIX2HC6LV1.3) T-Con Board"]
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post #12017 of 12025 Old 08-18-2017, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eslai View Post
Murphy's Law hit me hard this week. On Sunday, I said to my wife, "Y'know, our TV (KDL-52XBR4) has been rock-solid for ten years--never had a problem with it!". I had never said a thing about the TV's reliability at all in the past ten years.

So, naturally, I come home on Monday night to this:

[never mind, I can't post links or images yet since I have zero posts, even though my account is from 2008 I have attached the images below, which is probably better anyways.]

But the internet is an amazing thing. Earlier this year I learned how to repair my microwave, and now, I can fix TVs. I ended up having to replace the T-con board. It cost under $100 (and can be found used on eBay for like $30 if you want to go that route) and bam--the TV is working flawlessly again.

Just wanted to post this here for anyone else that ends up trying to solve a similar problem in the future. Thank you to AVS Forum members for the valuable insight--searching the web for this problem ends up with a lot of threads pointing back here!

[I can't post a link to the part, but I got it from ShopJimmy. Sold as "Samsung LJ94-01944H (404652FIX2HC6LV1.3) T-Con Board"]
Thanks for the info. Mine is 9 1/2 years old. If it tanked I was going to use that as an excuse to get a cheap 4k LG, as it's now a bedroom TV.

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post #12018 of 12025 Old 08-18-2017, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by snowghost View Post
Thanks for the info. Mine is 9 1/2 years old. If it tanked I was going to use that as an excuse to get a cheap 4k LG, as it's now a bedroom TV.
Yeah I just really don't want to shell out $2000+ for a new TV right now. I'm pretty happy with what I've got already as I haven't gone into the whole 4k thing yet. Ignorance is bliss.
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post #12019 of 12025 Old 08-18-2017, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by eslai View Post
Yeah I just really don't want to shell out $2000+ for a new TV right now. I'm pretty happy with what I've got already as I haven't gone into the whole 4k thing yet. Ignorance is bliss.
I wouldn't either. I was thinking about a $600 model. But if the XBR is your main TV, then I can see keeping it.

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post #12020 of 12025 Old 08-18-2017, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eslai View Post
So, naturally, I come home on Monday night to this:
I ended up having to replace the T-con board.
So, I assume you're referring to the green vertical line? So, if I ever get this, I can just replace the T-con board and be back in business?

Chet
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post #12021 of 12025 Old 08-18-2017, 04:06 PM
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So, I assume you're referring to the green vertical line? So, if I ever get this, I can just replace the T-con board and be back in business?
Well, there's a lot of things to consider when troubleshooting, from what I've read. First things first, of course, make sure it's not a signal source issue. Also, verify that it shows up over the top of the home screen menu. If the green stripe/line is behind the menu overlay, then you'd assume that the problem was with the signal generation, rather than with the matrixed input to the panel.

In my case, the stripe is transparent, but always visible not matter what input I'm on or whether the menu is up or not. My digging came up with a few ideas:

  1. Dirty ribbon connectors. I disconnected all four ribbon cables between the T-con board and the panel, wiped the cable ends and blew out the connectors. They looked fine but you never know. There are also the two connectors between the T-con and the HB1 board. I disconnected those and blew them out. This unfortunately didn't fix the issue for me though.
  2. Bad T-con board. This ended up being my problem. Note that if the stripes are horizontal instead of vertical, then most sources say it isn't the T-con board, it's most likely the panel.
  3. Tab bond issue on the panel. There's another thread on this board about that problem. It seems to heavily afflict the 46" KDL-46XBR4. If you have an issue with tab bonding on the panel, it's not easy to fix for most TVs and most people would say it is not worth the cost. But for this TV in parrticular, applying pressure to the connection end through a rubber shim seems to be effective. I still can't post URLs yet, so search for a thread titled "Sony KDL-46XBR4 Panel Problem". This issue was unlikely the cause for me and I was only going to troubleshoot this route if the T-con board didn't fix my issue.

It wasn't hard to do any of this, no soldering or anything required, just careful disassembly. I found a service manual online that pointed out the 18 screws I had to undo to get the shell off. You don't have to undo any of the Torx screws, by the way. Just the philips heads. Actually, they may be JIS, not philips. Be careful with the four smaller philips/JIS head screws that hold the T-con heat shield on (or is it an EMI shield? not sure). They're very soft and on mine, they were tight enough that I ended up rounding out the head of one of the screws. I had to grind it off with a Dremel. Careful with this piece--before removing it you have to swing it up 90 degrees and undo the four ribbon cables at the top, as they pass through this heat shield. Don't just yank it off or you'll damage the ribbon cables and possible the boards at either end. If you remove the aluminum tape that covers the top edge of this heat shield, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Oh, also, before you can remove that heat shield, there is a long plate that you have to remove that covers the upper edge of the panel. You have to remove the four bolts from the top ends of the mounting brackets, along with one more bolt along the top edge of this long plate in order to remove it. Also of course you have to remove the heat sink panel that sits on top of the T-con heat shield, but that will have been obvious.

And since I've gone this far, I might as well mention that you have to also remove the cover over HB1 prior to removing that heat sink panel. Sorry, this was all backwards order, I know.
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Last edited by eslai; 08-18-2017 at 04:09 PM.
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post #12022 of 12025 Old 10-21-2017, 11:39 PM
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Sorry for bumping this old thread, but my 40XBR4 has started behaving oddly. Today I turned the TV off and on a once or twice during the day without issue, but when I turned it off after having been on several hours and tried to turn it back on 15 minutes later, the picture never appeared. All I got was sound and backlighting. I tried turning it off and on a few times with no difference, though one time I got a completely green screen. I even removed all the cables and unplugged it for about 5 minutes and plugged it back in and got no picture at all, just the backlighting and sound.

I figured the TV display died so I unplugged it and left it alone. I was pretty warm so I left it where it was. About an hour later it was cold to the touch so on a whim I plugged it back in and turned it on and low and behold I got the TV overlay graphics. I then hooked up all the cables and it worked normally.

I’m guessing it overheated or something, but I’ve never had this happen where I need to leave it powered off for so long to get the picture back. Any idea what’s going on with it? Is it dying?
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post #12023 of 12025 Old 10-22-2017, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Morac View Post
Sorry for bumping this old thread, but my 40XBR4 has started behaving oddly. Today I turned the TV off and on a once or twice during the day without issue, but when I turned it off after having been on several hours and tried to turn it back on 15 minutes later, the picture never appeared. All I got was sound and backlighting. I tried turning it off and on a few times with no difference, though one time I got a completely green screen. I even removed all the cables and unplugged it for about 5 minutes and plugged it back in and got no picture at all, just the backlighting and sound.

I figured the TV display died so I unplugged it and left it alone. I was pretty warm so I left it where it was. About an hour later it was cold to the touch so on a whim I plugged it back in and turned it on and low and behold I got the TV overlay graphics. I then hooked up all the cables and it worked normally.

I’m guessing it overheated or something, but I’ve never had this happen where I need to leave it powered off for so long to get the picture back. Any idea what’s going on with it? Is it dying?
There are 2 loud fans on either side of the top which are covered with grey foam air filters... Inspect those filters for dust and vacuum them. Bring the set outside with an air compressor and start blowing thru the rear vents. This should get the majority of the dust off which may be adding to your overheating issue.
When you get the TV working, there is a diagnostic button sequence on the remote that you can find errors.
Press these quickly while the set it's OFF:
1) Display
2) 5
3) Volume + (service), or - (diagnostic)
4) Power

My display: 09099-04011-09094
Supposidly my set has 9099 hours of operation, has been turned on 4011 times and the LCD panel has 9094 hours on it and is still running strong! Click image for larger version

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ID:	2302782

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

XBR-55X850A, KDL-40XBR4 8000+ hours
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post #12024 of 12025 Old 10-22-2017, 09:03 AM
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Official Sony XBR4/5 Owners Thread(NO PRICE TALK)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vath View Post
There are 2 loud fans on either side of the top which are covered with grey foam air filters... Inspect those filters for dust and vacuum them. Bring the set outside with an air compressor and start blowing thru the rear vents. This should get the majority of the dust off which may be adding to your overheating issue.
When you get the TV working, there is a diagnostic button sequence on the remote that you can find errors.
Press these quickly while the set it's OFF:
1) Display
2) 5
3) Volume + (service), or - (diagnostic)
4) Power

My display: 09099-04011-09094
Supposidly my set has 9099 hours of operation, has been turned on 4011 times and the LCD panel has 9094 hours on it and is still running strong! Attachment 2302782

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Okay I got the diagnostic screen and I see a 1 next to the 101 DTT_WDT. Any idea what that means?

Edit: Looked this up and apparently it means “Watch Dog Timer used to track micro processors not to record errors”. Not sure what that means.

Also apparently my TV has 20379 hours (849 days) of operation, turned on 6388 times.

I just turned it off and on again to clear the diagnostics and got a completely green screen for about 10 seconds after which the picture appears. The TV was still cold at that point. It looks like the TV is dying.


Last edited by Morac; 10-22-2017 at 09:09 AM.
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post #12025 of 12025 Old Yesterday, 08:39 PM
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Well now the picture gets distorted when playing certain scenes (reproducible on a screen) if it ever turns on at all, which normally it doesn’t. There’s obviously something wrong with the display processor. Guess it’s time for a new TV.
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