Sharp Aquos D64U Calibrations and Settings - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 863 Old 10-10-2007, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoMe14 View Post

Sounds like a source issue. As another said...BD movies, and the Trailers I've downloaded off of the PS3 network display no "noise" of any kind.

Thanks for the info. I am going to get a HD DVD player this weekend and try it out.
Any films I should try with it that you guys suggest?
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post #92 of 863 Old 10-10-2007, 05:39 AM
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UPDATE: It is in fact the source. I played these videos on my Dell 24" in 1080p and I can see the same "noise" that I see on my 46D64U.
That is a relief!
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post #93 of 863 Old 10-11-2007, 04:38 PM
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So we've seen TD's and Baloo75's settings for regular content.

Has anyone tweaked the "Game" mode for use with their PS3/Xbox 360? Or do you just use the same USER mode settings?

Thanks,
- Chip
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post #94 of 863 Old 10-11-2007, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip Moody View Post

So we've seen TD's and Baloo75's settings for regular content.

Has anyone tweaked the "Game" mode for use with their PS3/Xbox 360? Or do you just use the same USER mode settings?

Thanks,
- Chip

What I did for my Xbox 360, and I am nowhere near skilled at calibrating displays, is I used tigerdave's settings from post #83 as a baseline, and tweaked the contrast and brightness settings according to the Halo 3 AV Calibrator provided by Bungie (not the most professional thing to do, I know). However, I do notice, and perhaps this is just me, that Halo 3 requires a pretty high brightness setting, much higher than the settings most people on the forum have for movies, etc.

Right now, I have contrast set to +27 and brightness set to +20. Halo 3 looks great to me, but then again, I don't think I could make it look bad even if I really tried
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post #95 of 863 Old 10-11-2007, 10:57 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schen1119 View Post

What I did for my Xbox 360, and I am nowhere near skilled at calibrating displays, is I used tigerdave's settings from post #83 as a baseline, and tweaked the contrast and brightness settings according to the Halo 3 AV Calibrator provided by Bungie (not the most professional thing to do, I know). However, I do notice, and perhaps this is just me, that Halo 3 requires a pretty high brightness setting, much higher than the settings most people on the forum have for movies, etc.

Right now, I have contrast set to +27 and brightness set to +20. Halo 3 looks great to me, but then again, I don't think I could make it look bad even if I really tried

For Halo 3 I just when in the game menu and upped the brightness.
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post #96 of 863 Old 10-12-2007, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxMonkeexX View Post

For Halo 3 I just when in the game menu and upped the brightness.


I did the same. You can up the brightness in the game and it will save this setting each time you play. It might be better than changing your settings on the SHARP each time you switch from the 360.
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post #97 of 863 Old 10-15-2007, 08:14 PM
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I used a calibration DVD I received from Sony Vikuiti division to do a calibration last night. Here is a link to my settings:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post11916570

Let me know what you think!!
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post #98 of 863 Old 10-16-2007, 10:14 AM
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Thanks for the settings. I used the most recent ones from TigerDave and the tv looks great. I'll probably turn the backlight down a little because my room is a little dark at times, but overall it looks great.

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post #99 of 863 Old 10-22-2007, 11:21 AM
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Same thing, used the TigerDave settings, set looks great. Watched the Notre Dame vs. USC game in 1080i HD, was impressed, looks great on my wall as well. Thanks.

Hank
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post #100 of 863 Old 10-22-2007, 09:47 PM
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Using Tigerdave's settings. Thanks!
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post #101 of 863 Old 10-23-2007, 01:31 PM
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I have to agree with boxtv, received my Aquos 52d64u and the picture just doesn't seem as good as my sony bravia 40" s2000. This is all off of a PS3/TiVO/SD-DVD.

There's not as much definition in the darks (i.e. the dark greys and blacks seem to blend together) and the skin tones are not natural. I've used TigerDave's settings (which is the best settings that I can make the tv look).

Any suggestions?
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post #102 of 863 Old 10-23-2007, 02:21 PM
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Has anyone been successful in getting sound on a Sharp D64U (mine is LC-42D64U) to come in on HDMI and go out on Optical?

I can't seem to make this work and it is annoying me. I want sound HDMI in, out Optical. It should work, TV has HDMI inputs and opti out.

Right now I am having to go Component Vid because of the sound issue. But I dont like it.

Any help is appreciated.
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post #103 of 863 Old 10-23-2007, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobheck View Post

Has anyone been successful in getting sound on a Sharp D64U (mine is LC-42D64U) to come in on HDMI and go out on Optical?

I can't seem to make this work and it is annoying me. I want sound HDMI in, out Optical. It should work, TV has HDMI inputs and opti out.

Right now I am having to go Component Vid because of the sound issue. But I dont like it.

Any help is appreciated.

I have it working. I can't remember all the details. But I believe I went into the menu and set up the hdmi port that is audio switchable to analog or something like that. Then optical started working for me.

But, the hdmi on the side of the tv (hdmi 4 I think) does not ouput thru the optical, only into the tv.
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post #104 of 863 Old 10-23-2007, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobheck View Post

Has anyone been successful in getting sound on a Sharp D64U (mine is LC-42D64U) to come in on HDMI and go out on Optical?

I can't seem to make this work and it is annoying me. I want sound HDMI in, out Optical. It should work, TV has HDMI inputs and opti out.

Right now I am having to go Component Vid because of the sound issue. But I dont like it.

Any help is appreciated.

The optical out on the D64U series is for the TV's digital tuner only. You can't pass a signal from HDMI (audio or video) out of a non-HDCP port. The purpose of the optical out is so you can watch TV using the tuner and pass audio to your A/V receiver.

For example, if you had a DVD player and a TV that had HDMI but your A/V receiver didn't have HDMI, you can't take the HDMI from the DVD player to the TV and then optical from the TV to the receiver and get sound from the DVD player. You would have to go HDMI from the DVD player to the TV for video and optical from the DVD player to the receiver for the audio.

I'm pretty sure you can't use the optical out to pass a signal from another device.
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post #105 of 863 Old 10-26-2007, 01:22 AM
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Had some time to spend with the my 65" set,

Used DVE and AVIA and service menu, took about 2.5 - 3 hours because DVE is such a pain to navigate in.

Avia is easier to use for your CMS color decoder settings as does have color patterns that are easy to use with hue/saturation bars for each color. Don't use the color decoder check, rather use the color bars for each filter in the color pattern database. Go back and check the blue filter after finishing with the green and the red.

Calibration Settings in User Mode Input 1

Denon DVD-2900 in 480P using component inputs, upconverted to 1080p using the TV's onboard video scaler.

Dark room, no ambient light.

Primary Purpose: Movie Watching

OPC off

Backlight +9
Contrast +31 Just Below Threshold
Brightness -2 True Black Setting, right bar barely visibile
Color +5
Tint 0
Sharpness -1

I set the color saturation on the color bars using COLOR and TINT with the blue filter, then tweaked the blue using the fine CMS adjustments.

Then adjusted the following using both the green filter and red filter, took a lot of going back and forth....

CMS Hue
R 0
Y +4
G -2
C +5
B 0
M -4

CMS Saturation
R -6
Y +2
G -3
C -6
B -1
M 0

Color decoder with these settings is close to perfect.

There was no red push present.

Overscan was set at nifty 2.5%, pattern was centered.

Active Contrast Off
Fine Motion Off
Color Temp: Low is closest to 6500K
Monochrome Off
Digital Noise Reduction Off


For daytime television watching, use the same CMS settings for color accuracy, as it does compensate for the slight inaccuracy of the set’s out of the box color decoder. (Nice to have as it used to be that only the higher end sets had this type of user friendly set adjustability without having to go into the service mode.) Color accuracy great for movie watching, but when watching TV, this is probably meaningless, given that TV source material lacks any consistency.

Since you will be likely watching TV in daylight settings with more ambient light, movie calibration settings are typically too dark, so I would increase the brightness on the set from -2 to +6 to +8, or try putting the OPC on to compensate for a lot of ambient light. I also prefer to watch TV using the mid-low color temperature.

Use User Mode for your settings as in this mode, the set's Enhanced Picture Constrast is off. This set has the capability to save User Modes for all inputs. User1, User5, etc.

Additional settings for the HDMI Input for my DirecTV HD TIVO

I/P Setting: Slow
Film Mode: On

You're going to like the picture.....
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post #106 of 863 Old 10-26-2007, 05:55 AM
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Try these and see what you think. I've been doing some testing with these settings on my Sharp LC-52D64U with a Comcast DCH-3416 DVR, Samsung BD-P1400 Blu-Ray and a Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD.

OPC: Off
Backlight: -5
Contrast: +29
Brightness: -2
Color: 0
Tint: +3
Sharpness: -4
C.M.S.-Hue: All 0
C.M.S.-Saturation: All 0
Color Temp: Low
Active Contrast: On
Fine Motion: Off
I/P setting: Fast
Film Mode: Off

Everything else is "Default".

I tweaked the settings from Home Theater magazine testing the Sharp LC-52D64U found here using calibration software (GetGray and DVE).

OhioLefty
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post #107 of 863 Old 10-26-2007, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoMe14 View Post

Now I have a question and its actually one I've had everytime I calibrate an LCD. With the AVIA disc it's instructions seemed aimed at CRTs and projectors, and while that doesnt matter when setting brightness, color, tint, and sharpness it does seem to be slightly different with contrast. In the white and black pluge pattern the white box never blooms regardless of how high you turn up the contrast with an LCD. So how do you set contrast on your LCD?

Also with the sharpness setting I can not see a difference between zero and -10....should I just drop it to negative ten as it does not seem to signicantly soften the image. The AVIA disc reccommends shutting off any sharpening...so my question is, is zero "off" or is -10 "off"?

You're right, you won't see the blooming in the top box with an LCD.

To set the White Level in AVIA, use the white level adjustment pattern that has the boxes on top against a black background, a set of lines on the sides and the solid white on the bottom....on the solid white area on the bottom, there are two bars on the lower right that are moving from side to side, your upper threshold for white is where one of the bars actually disappears. Typically the one on the right disappears first if I remember correctly......once it disappears, back the contrast off one click to make it reappear and you are right on. On my 65", using a Denon DVD-2900 which has a fairly accurate color reproduction, this was at +31. This setting is important as the amount of white does come into play later as it is found on the color bars as well and is used to set the color decoder with the CMS settings.

Using the AVIA sharpness pattern is pretty easy. To shut it off, take it all the way left -, then increase it until you see the edges of the black lines near the center start widening and turn white, on this set it won't happen obviously until you get up to +3 or +4, then click it back until the edges disappear and there is a single line again. On my D64 65", it was a toss up at either -1 or -2. This was a little surprising as it has been typically at -3 or -4 on the other Sharp sets I have calibrated.



HTH
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post #108 of 863 Old 10-26-2007, 08:34 PM
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Is there an adjustment that will make banding less noticeable?
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post #109 of 863 Old 10-27-2007, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioLefty View Post

Try these and see what you think. I've been doing some testing with these settings on my Sharp LC-52D64U with a Comcast DCH-3416 DVR, Samsung BD-P1400 Blu-Ray and a Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD.

OPC: Off
Backlight: -5
Contrast: +29
Brightness: -2
Color: 0
Tint: +3
Sharpness: -4
C.M.S.-Hue: All 0
C.M.S.-Saturation: All 0
Color Temp: Low
Active Contrast: On
Fine Motion: Off
I/P setting: Fast
Film Mode: Off

Everything else is "Default".

I tweaked the settings from Home Theater magazine testing the Sharp LC-52D64U found here using calibration software (GetGray and DVE).

OhioLefty


Lefty,

You must have a great picture with those true 1080p sources.

Folks are looking for a true 1080p calibration for this set and you have both 1080p DVD formats which is great. My calibration is spot on for anyone upconverting from 480p, but the true 1080p calibration will be different and very helpful to others.

Though you are a little limited in what is available to do a HD calibration, you should have a set of calibrations for each of your two 1080p DVD players.....the gamma for each of the sources will likely vary a little, but both of your DVD players will reproduce accurate color. Set up a User mode for the input for your Samsung Blu-ray and one also for your Toshiba HD-DVD and post both of those calibrations here.

Did you do a CMS tweak of the color decoder on this set, with this calibration you have everything set to "0"? The link to the magazine review showed that they didn't get that far with their calibration and they saw with their testing that the flesh tones on the set were slightly off. The color decoder is a little off out of the box and with a little tweaking, the flesh tones can look simply great on this set. Good to see that you have the color temp set to LOW, as that is the closest to D6500K for movie viewing.

Hans
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post #110 of 863 Old 10-27-2007, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansB View Post

Had some time to spend with the my 65" set,


Dark room, no ambient light.

Primary Purpose: Movie Watching

OPC off

Backlight +9
Contrast +31 Just Below Threshold
Brightness -2 True Black Setting, right bar barely visibile
Color +5
Tint 0
Sharpness -1

I set the color saturation on the color bars using COLOR and TINT with the blue filter, then tweaked the blue using the fine CMS adjustments.

Then adjusted the following using both the green filter and red filter, took a lot of going back and forth....

CMS Hue
R 0
Y +4
G -2
C +5
B 0
M -4

CMS Saturation
R -6
Y +2
G -3
C -6
B -1
M 0

Color decoder with these settings is close to perfect.

You're going to like the picture.....


Interesting, I tried your settings and noticed the colors were noticeably off on my TV. The fleshtones were noticeably red and the saturation looked overdone. So I fired up AVIA and went through the color calibration patterns on my TV. The settings for your TV were significantly off for saturation and Hue on my TV/DVD player. I was using an XBOX 360 as my DVD player, tried both VGA cable and component also tried 1080p and 480p.

I wonder if there is a difference between the 46" which I have and the 65" that you have.

I've gotten many positive remarks on the color settings that I posted earlier but they were all from people with 46" and 42" sets. I wish someone that has a colorimeter and has calibrated their set would post their settings.
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post #111 of 863 Old 10-27-2007, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baloo75 View Post

Interesting, I tried your settings and noticed the colors were noticeably off on my TV. The fleshtones were noticeably red and the saturation looked overdone. So I fired up AVIA and went through the color calibration patterns on my TV. The settings for your TV were significantly off for saturation and Hue on my TV/DVD player. I was using an XBOX 360 as my DVD player, tried both VGA cable and component also tried 1080p and 480p.

I wonder if there is a difference between the 46" which I have and the 65" that you have.

I've gotten many positive remarks on the color settings that I posted earlier but they were all from people with 46" and 42" sets. I wish someone that has a colorimeter and has calibrated their set would post their settings.

I think you're seeing that there is a lot of variation on the calibration settings of these sets. It depends a lot on the source DVD player and it's ability to reproduce accurate color and black levels, in this case your XBOX360 and my Denon DVD-2900, and the sets themselves in regards to the internal settings from HDMI vs Component, upconverted 1080p vs true 1080p, and across the 7 different inputs. Then you have to take into account the differences between the 42, 46, 52 and 65 inch sizes.

For instance, on your post #55, where you are using -12 brightness, that is not even close to an accurate black level on my set, and a contrast of +36 is beyond the upper threshold for white on my set....yet those may be the correct settings with your XBOX360.

On my set, using my color filters, red, green, blue, all the color bars on AVIA have a uniform color pattern across the respective colors on the red, green and blue color bar patterns. My color decoder is close to being perfect with my CMS settings, yet those numbers throw your color decoder off. The CMS settings that others have posted throw my color decoder off as well.

So there is a pattern here and it is not surprising.

Bottom line, and I've encouraged everyone to do so, rather than adopting someone elses settings, you should be calibrating your own set using their own source, the basic calibration takes 15-30 minutes to establish an upper white limit, a black level, sharpness and a basic color/tint calibration using the blue filter........it's worth the time.

Even if a colorimeter were used on a set to reproduce accurate colors, the set would still be tweaked to reflect the viewing source.

There seems to be some consistency in regards to upper white threshold being somewhere between +25 to +35, brightness (black levels) between -2 to +1, and sharpness at -1 to -4.......so one can use these as guidleines in setting up their own set. If in fact those using an Xbox360 find their numbers to be markedly different from those using a standalone DVD player, then those are guidelines that are needed as well.
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post #112 of 863 Old 10-27-2007, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansB View Post

Bottom line, and I've encouraged everyone to do so, rather than adopting someone elses settings, you should be calibrating your own set using their own source, the basic calibration takes 15-30 minutes to establish an upper white limit, a black level, sharpness and a basic color/tint calibration using the blue filter........it's worth the time.

I couldn't agree with you more, I also posted something to this affect a while back. AVIA costs ~$30-40 including color filters everyone should really consider this purchase. I have used it for years on many different TVs and it has definetly paid for itself. I have personally never used DVE but have heard both have pluses and minuses. They also are both coming out with new versions any day now.
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post #113 of 863 Old 10-27-2007, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansB View Post

I think you're seeing that there is a lot of variation on the calibration settings of these sets. It depends a lot on the source DVD player and it's ability to reproduce accurate color and black levels, in this case your XBOX360 and my Denon DVD-2900, and the sets themselves in regards to the internal settings from HDMI vs Component, upconverted 1080p vs true 1080p, and across the 7 different inputs. Then you have to take into account the differences between the 42, 46, 52 and 65 inch sizes.

Absolutely agree... which brings me to a question: Calibrating to a specific DVD player is great if that's the source you watch. But the majority of my viewing is HD content either OTA or from Dish Network, all of which is converted by the receiver to 1080i (no pass-through mode yet). So how do you calibrate for an off-air or satellite source? I can't see where even an ISF calibrator using the fanciest test gear on earth could do the job accurately, because the settings they get with their gear may be way off vs. the Dish receiver or OTA tuner.

The usual advice seems to be to calibrate using the DVD, and then apply those same settings to the other inputs as well. This doesn't seem to make much sense to me - the default settings might actually be better for a specific satellite or cable box than the ones carefully tweaked to a specific DVD player.

How do the professional calibrators handle this?

Rob
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post #114 of 863 Old 10-28-2007, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansB View Post

You're going to like the picture.....

HansB, You are right, I like the picture. I've tried a lot of settings provided on these forums, on my 46D64U, and have to say your settings have provided the best picture on my set. I think the most benefit came from the CMS adjustments. Thanks.
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post #115 of 863 Old 10-28-2007, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrn23 View Post

HansB, You are right, I like the picture. I've tried a lot of settings provided on these forums, on my 46D64U, and have to say your settings have provided the best picture on my set. I think the most benefit came from the CMS adjustments. Thanks.

I agree, these are also the best settings I have used so far.

Note: I have a 42D64U.
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post #116 of 863 Old 11-01-2007, 08:18 AM
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hmm is there a way to save color settings for each input seprate or do we have to press av mode button to change each time?
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post #117 of 863 Old 11-01-2007, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexheinz View Post

I agree, these are also the best settings I have used so far.

Note: I have a 42D64U.

Those settings seem to turn flesh tones very red on my set. 42D64U.
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post #118 of 863 Old 11-01-2007, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpsfreak View Post

hmm is there a way to save color settings for each input seprate or do we have to press av mode button to change each time?


The User Mode for each input saves settings specific to that input.
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post #119 of 863 Old 11-07-2007, 09:08 AM
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If anyone is using a Universal Remote Control MX-Series remote, there is a .mxf file for the D64 series of LCD's on remotecentral.

Has discretes for Power, Inputs 1-7 and Antenna Input.

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...&dv=television


For others who need Pronto Hex (confirmed to be working on the LC-65D64u):

Device Code: 17 Function: power ON
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 17 Function: power OFF
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 1 Function: Input 1
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 1 Function: Input 2
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 1 Function: Input 3
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 1 Function: Input 4
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 17 Function: input 5
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 17 Function: input 6
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

Device Code: 17 Function: Input 7
0000 006D 0000 0020 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0679 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0046 000A 001E 000A 001E 000A 0046 000A 0679

FYI, one of the quirks of the Sharp sets is the amount of time it takes from power on to the time it will respond to a command to change inputs. I had to delay 5-6 seconds in my macro sequence from when I sent the power on discrete to when the set accepted the code to change inputs.
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post #120 of 863 Old 11-08-2007, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansB View Post

Lefty,

You must have a great picture with those true 1080p sources.

Folks are looking for a true 1080p calibration for this set and you have both 1080p DVD formats which is great. My calibration is spot on for anyone upconverting from 480p, but the true 1080p calibration will be different and very helpful to others.

Though you are a little limited in what is available to do a HD calibration, you should have a set of calibrations for each of your two 1080p DVD players.....the gamma for each of the sources will likely vary a little, but both of your DVD players will reproduce accurate color. Set up a User mode for the input for your Samsung Blu-ray and one also for your Toshiba HD-DVD and post both of those calibrations here.

Did you do a CMS tweak of the color decoder on this set, with this calibration you have everything set to "0"? The link to the magazine review showed that they didn't get that far with their calibration and they saw with their testing that the flesh tones on the set were slightly off. The color decoder is a little off out of the box and with a little tweaking, the flesh tones can look simply great on this set. Good to see that you have the color temp set to LOW, as that is the closest to D6500K for movie viewing.

Hans

Hans,

Sorry it took so long to post back, I just haven't been back to this thread in a while.

Can you give me some pointers on how to do a proper calibration? I just tweaked the review settings and didn't know what to do with the CMS settings. I have an LC-52D64U and have available Digital Video Essentials (DVE), GetGray and a freebie disk from 3M "Vikkuiti". I also have the THX glasses but I tend to use the filters that come with DVE. I've never been in the service menu so maybe you could give me a few pointers there as well. I'm not afraid to try anything (which is kinda dangerous). I'm an Electrical Engineer by day and a total technut at night when I'm not playing golf (my true love).

Thanks and looking forward to some tips...
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