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post #1291 of 2040 Old 01-15-2012, 07:19 AM
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I replaced the p, sc/su/sd boards i adusted the vsus to the value on the panel but with three kids pulling on my arms just after christmas i did not adjust the sc voltage fall measurement. Need an oscilloscpoe. Or the ve adjustment on the ss board.

The tv is working fine but it is a bit dimmer than i remember. Thx is the only mode i use but i had to crank the brightness up to 75 from 60 whereit had been, It is barely acceptable now but still not as bright as i remember,


Do any of those voltage measurements i didn't adjust affect total brightness of the screen?

Im trying to figure out if its worthwhile to open the set up again to make these adjustments.
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post #1292 of 2040 Old 01-15-2012, 07:29 PM
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Wow, my last post was about a year ago:

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvjho View Post

Time to join the forum...got a 50-inch TH50PZ80U that died with 10 blinks last October, was 2.5 years old. Warranty is not a consideration, nor is calling a shop when I can replace boards and do component-level repair. Initially I could leave the set unplugged overnight and it would start up in the morning. That all lasted about a week. From then on, the plasma won't start at all, 3 clicks on the relay, 10 blinks. It seems some part was fading away fast. I fell back on a 19-inch flat panel originally bought for my 19ft RV trailer. Would be nice to resurrect the 50.

I got my hands on a PDF service manual. Seeing notes pointing to the standby 15V as a prominent failure mode, I went to the P board schematic and spied TP7 (tie point 7), shows as being connected to pins 7-9 on P6 (the infamous standby 15V line), turned the power strip on, and my VOM pegged at 25V just before the TV shuts down. So far others on this forum and the Panny service notes refer to a dead 15V line here. Seeing low or no voltage means there is a short somewhere. I've got the opposite problem, an overvoltage. Usually that indicates an open-circuit, no load where one should exist. This 15V segment is connected to a secondary of transformer T301. Either the fault is on the same side of T301, or the primary side voltage is higher than normal. The schematic doesn't show the proper voltages.

The TV sat dead in the living room for 12 months, then went to the basement shop in fall 2011. I wasn't going to give up on a $2100 TV, although prices have fallen sharply.

I found post #1111 from kdh05, was very useful. I used component cooler and froze the MC301 module, and the TV tried to start! I replaced the 1uF chip cap mentioned in his post with an aluminum 50V electrolytic. It was very tricky but the 15W iron from Radio Shack had a pointy tip, did the job. After putting everything back together, she fired up like nothing was ever wrong !! Thanks kdh05!
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post #1293 of 2040 Old 01-17-2012, 07:28 PM
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I purchased my 42 inch plasma in sept 2007 in Cincinnati ,Ohio and i have the 7 flashing lights. Nedless to say my warrenty is up and Im not to happy. Wheres my old tube tv``. I couldnt get that thing to die.
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post #1294 of 2040 Old 01-17-2012, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim66bob View Post

I purchased my 42 inch plasma in sept 2007 in Cincinnati ,Ohio and i have the 7 flashing lights. Nedless to say my warrenty is up and Im not to happy. Wheres my old tube tv``. I couldnt get that thing to die.

Did you search this thread at all prior to posting? Depending upon your model, Panasonic may still repair it for nothing.
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post #1295 of 2040 Old 01-18-2012, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mumblyp View Post

Tom, is there a master list of what models they repair?

Not that I'm aware of. If there is, tomwil or someone else might know and chime in.

Probably the best way to check on a model you have a question about is to use the search function in this thread for that particular model.
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post #1296 of 2040 Old 01-18-2012, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mumblyp View Post

Tom, is there a master list of what models they repair?

There was a service bulletin put out by Panasonic that listed the PZ77 and PZ700 series was affected by the bad firmware. That bulletin was mentioned in this post, but the bulletin appears to be unaccessible now.

Panasonic may repair any PZ7 series if asked.

That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #1297 of 2040 Old 01-18-2012, 02:39 PM
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Bad news: my vt20 had the 7 blinks so the tech replaced the SC board. Now it has 6 blinks. According to the service manual, that is definitively an SC board. They told me they have to trouble shoot the tv before they will know that. I just looked it up myself. What are the chances it's a brand new, defective SC board again? This is mega frustrating.
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post #1298 of 2040 Old 01-18-2012, 05:28 PM
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Those blink codes are only ballpark and can be misleading. My 58PZ800U blinked twice and the repair guide said P and D board. Bought two new one and replace them and still got two blinks.

It wasn't until I did some of the debugging steps for the other blink codes when I found it was the SC board.

What I found on the net (youtube) was that the SC board can be done in by a failed SU or SD board. General recommedation is to replace all three at the same time.

That fixed mine and it ran with the original P and D boards that the 2 blink code said was bad.
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post #1299 of 2040 Old 01-20-2012, 06:31 PM
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Hello all, New to the forum.

I have a Panasonic TC-P42C2 42" plasma that does not turn on.....no clicking, no blinking LED's nothing....dead in the water!

I have visually checked the power board...nothing looks burnt. I metered the fuses, they all check for continuity. The caps all look perfect.

The only thing that seems out of sorts is the power button itself. It doesn't seem to "engage" when it is pushed....don't know if its supposed to or not. I know that doesn't account for why the unit doesn't click when it is plugged in but just wanted to mention it.

Any idea, besides replacing it?

Thank you
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post #1300 of 2040 Old 01-20-2012, 06:33 PM
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......Any idea, besides replacing the power board? sorry
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post #1301 of 2040 Old 01-25-2012, 09:03 PM
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Hello

My Panasonic 50" plasma is acting weird. 2 yr old, work perfect than out of blue, turned it off by mistake then back on and instead of powering up it clicked then , fans started and few seconds shut off and get 2 blink. Un-plugged, put back in and it worked. Few weeks went by and did it again. This time took a few tries with plug to work.

Never a problem turing on after sitting all night, but very inconsistent problem. Happened multiple times one day then no problem Turing on & off the next week.

Totally confused and telephone chat with service tech said replace master board for $400 labor included. Based on what I read this solution seems excessive. Any feedback about problem and fix much appreciated.

Thanks for any replys with solution alternative!!!
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post #1302 of 2040 Old 01-26-2012, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telstarjohn View Post

2 blink code TH-50PZ850U

More than likely it is the power board.

To repair, you may wish to start here, and carefully review the posts by unspun01 and especially kdh05. His post here is exceptionally helpful. Also, this post summarizes things.

Just realize that from this post, 2-blinks = MC201, and 10-blinks = MC301. Therefore, you should inspect the MC201 for your 2-blink problem.

That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #1303 of 2040 Old 01-26-2012, 08:17 PM
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Panasonic Plasma tcp50s2 first no power at all nothing! I got a new power board and now I have 10 blinking lights. Any Ideas?
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post #1304 of 2040 Old 01-26-2012, 08:56 PM
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Thanks for the great info...will give it a try!!
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post #1305 of 2040 Old 01-26-2012, 09:11 PM
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Did the new video board fix the problem? I am having the same issue. First I had no life at all so I ordered a new power board, now I get 10 blinks. Very frustrating!!!
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post #1306 of 2040 Old 01-27-2012, 05:49 PM
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My Panasonic Viera TC-P50 S1 started blinking 9 times yesterday and has repeated three times in past 36 hours. Can anyone tell me if I'm SOL on this?
From what I've found, the error is: "Discharge Control SOS A-Board"
Obviously, Panasonic was no help at all.

The TV was purchased in Sept. of 2009, so it's a little over 3 years old.
If I choose to repair, any cost estimations?

I'd appreciate any input.
Thanks!
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post #1307 of 2040 Old 01-28-2012, 05:51 AM
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From what I found the 9 blinks is the A board. If you think you can do the repair the cost won't be to bad. For a repair service I don't know. Look thru this thread at what others have done. That will give you an idea what it takes. Here's some things that may help.

http://tsn.pstc.panasonic.com/PASS/o...ical_Guide.pdf

http://www.encompassimaging.com/shop...SC/TCP50S1.pdf

http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...r-tc-p50s1.htm
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post #1308 of 2040 Old 01-28-2012, 04:17 PM
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I would appreciate a link to the "Technical Guide" for the TC-P54G10.

Thanks
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post #1309 of 2040 Old 01-28-2012, 06:46 PM
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Hi ! According to the service manual, a 10 times blinking code, points to the A-Board. My TV is a TC-P50S2 bought in July 2010 and just died on Thrusday, January, 26, 2012: 18 months old.
The Part number of the A-Board is TNPH08312A. Would there be a difference between a TNPH0831 or a TNPH08313A ? I am no technician but technically inclined.
Thanks.
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post #1310 of 2040 Old 01-28-2012, 07:18 PM
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post #1311 of 2040 Old 01-28-2012, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dofin View Post

Hi ! According to the service manual, a 10 times blinking code, points to the A-Board. My TV is a TC-P50S2 bought in July 2010 and just died on Thrusday, January, 26, 2012: 18 months old.
The Part number of the A-Board is TNPH08312A. Would there be a difference between a TNPH0831 or a TNPH08313A ? I am no technician but technically inclined.
Thanks.

Yes it would be different. You need to have the right suffix. It will be stanped on the board. Should say AC or AF something like that. Check this one.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...us-a-board.htm
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post #1312 of 2040 Old 01-29-2012, 03:31 AM
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I already have the service manual for the TC-P54G10.

What I am looking for is the Panasonic-authored Technical Guide similar to the one you posted for 4thanddone.

Thanks again.
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post #1313 of 2040 Old 01-29-2012, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidOH View Post

Yes it would be different. You need to have the right suffix. It will be stanped on the board. Should say AC or AF something like that. Check this one.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...us-a-board.htm

It is exactly mine although the suffix after the TNPH0831 is 2A on my board. Regarding any service manual, I bought the one dedicated to my 50S2, yesterday night, at "manualsparadise" and it is a little bit different from the one I had already downloaded at elektrotanya, applying to 50S1.
Particularly pointing to more than the A-Board on the illustrated timing chart, in case of 10 times blinking code. Hence, suggesting SS, SD and P-Board should also be checked !
There are also other measurements and adjustments when changing A-Board, like "Vsus should be set to LOW or HIGH".
Plus, this one: "When exchanging A-board, the data in original A-board can be copied to SD card and then copy to new A-board.", that I do not know what this is for.
I'll check it more carefully today but so far, thanks for your responses. Cheers.
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post #1314 of 2040 Old 01-29-2012, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atarbell View Post

I already have the service manual for the TC-P54G10.

What I am looking for is the Panasonic-authored Technical Guide similar to the one you posted for 4thanddone.

Thanks again.

Looks like that manual covers the G series. It's the only thing I can find. If I had a G series to work on I'd try the tests in it.
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post #1315 of 2040 Old 01-29-2012, 04:51 PM
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David,

That's my thought too.

Thanks. I appreciate your checking.
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post #1316 of 2040 Old 01-31-2012, 06:07 AM
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Hello Tomwil, dtvjho, kdh05 and all.

I have the two blink problem with my 50PZ800 and am attempting to replace the 1uf capacitor on MC201 and MC301 as identified by kdh05 earlier in this thread. I was hoping you could tell me if a) the capacitor has polarity (i assume yes) b) how the polarity is orientated and c) what is the package size of a cap that can fit (so I can order one online)

I was intending to order a 1uf 25v tantalum (is 25v sufficient voltage as dtvjho used a 50v) which has a band to indicate polarity but the existing cap on MC201 is not marked. If we could use post #1111 as a reference can somebody help me with which side has what polarity?

Thank you for your assistance in advance and generally efforts in helping people with blinking Panny failures!



Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvjho View Post

Wow, my last post was about a year ago:



The TV sat dead in the living room for 12 months, then went to the basement shop in fall 2011. I wasn't going to give up on a $2100 TV, although prices have fallen sharply.

I found post #1111 from kdh05, was very useful. I used component cooler and froze the MC301 module, and the TV tried to start! I replaced the 1uF chip cap mentioned in his post with an aluminum 50V electrolytic. It was very tricky but the 15W iron from Radio Shack had a pointy tip, did the job. After putting everything back together, she fired up like nothing was ever wrong !! Thanks kdh05!

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post #1317 of 2040 Old 01-31-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvalent000 View Post

Hello all, New to the forum.

I have a Panasonic TC-P42C2 42" plasma that does not turn on.....no clicking, no blinking LED's nothing....dead in the water!

I have visually checked the power board...nothing looks burnt. I metered the fuses, they all check for continuity. The caps all look perfect.

Any idea, besides replacing it?

Thank you



Update on my Panasonic TC-P42C2 42" plasma. Did some research, talked to some people off the forum pages....there were no replies here.

Turns out the issue was the AV board (part # TNPH0831A).
Hope this helps someone out.
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post #1318 of 2040 Old 01-31-2012, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisng View Post

Hello Tomwil, dtvjho, kdh05 and all.

I have the two blink problem with my 50PZ800 and am attempting to replace the 1uf capacitor on MC201 and MC301 as identified by kdh05 earlier in this thread. I was hoping you could tell me if a) the capacitor has polarity (i assume yes) b) how the polarity is orientated and c) what is the package size of a cap that can fit (so I can order one online)

I was intending to order a 1uf 25v tantalum (is 25v sufficient voltage as dtvjho used a 50v) which has a band to indicate polarity but the existing cap on MC201 is not marked. If we could use post #1111 as a reference can somebody help me with which side has what polarity?

Thank you for your assistance in advance and generally efforts in helping people with blinking Panny failures!

I changed the cap on the MC301 due to 10 blinks. I didn't have to do the MC201. I don't think there is a polarity on it. If there is then I got lucky and put it on right. There's a pic of the one I changed on page 44.
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post #1319 of 2040 Old 02-01-2012, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidOH View Post

I changed the cap on the MC301 due to 10 blinks. I didn't have to do the MC201. I don't think there is a polarity on it. If there is then I got lucky and put it on right. There's a pic of the one I changed on page 44.

Are you talking about this page 44 or the one in a manual ? I do not see it and we're on page 44. If you're refering to page 44 in the manual, could you please post a picture ? Thanks.
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post #1320 of 2040 Old 02-01-2012, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidOH View Post

I changed the cap on the MC301 due to 10 blinks. I didn't have to do the MC201. I don't think there is a polarity on it. If there is then I got lucky and put it on right. There's a pic of the one I changed on page 44.

Hi DavidOH,

Thank you for your reply although I couldnt locate the picture you mention on page 44. Also I meant to say was I am trying to replace the cap on the MC201 module only as i have the two blink issue and not the cap on both modules. I have done some more research and it appears the original cap is a ceramic 'MLCC' type which has no polarity. So it appears i have to track down a similar ceramic smd type which has no polarity as my local electonics store only carries tantalum caps with polarity.

If some of the others that have replaced the MCX01 cap with a tantalum or smd electrolytic could chime in it would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading!
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