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post #1441 of 2043 Old 05-16-2012, 07:18 AM
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Greetings;

I went through 5 pages of this thread dedicated to the blinking lights issue. I don't see a similar situation to mine so I'm going to ask about it. If this has been fully explained before I apologize. I do not have an HTPC connected; I have a Marrantz receiver connected to HDMI1 and all my components run through the Marrantz. There is some anomaly that occurs when turning off the tv using a macro on my universal remote (same thing happens with 3 different universal remotes). The tv will turn off and go into the 10 blink mode. I can reboot it by unplugging and plugging it in again and it solves the problem.

I guess my question is has anybody experienced this without an HTPC involved and if so, what is the workaround.

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post #1442 of 2043 Old 05-16-2012, 09:04 AM
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I don't have a "front" hdmi input. I have them in the back and on the side.

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post #1443 of 2043 Old 05-16-2012, 09:48 AM
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Thanks. That's not the perfect solution (having the cable stick out) but I'll try it.

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post #1444 of 2043 Old 05-17-2012, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulflyTRIBE View Post

Let me know what you find out. I have the same tv and power flickered during storm and I have no display now either. No red light errors. Turns on, back light comes on, no display including input and volume then relay kicks off and red light stays on. power button does nothing then a few minutes latter it shuts down. I was thinking the power supply was messed up but maybe your on the right track.

Well, I fixed my set last night!

Sounds like you have the same thing I had. I replaced my Main board. I ordered a part off ebay, and it turned out to be defective. I exchanged it and got the new one last night and now my TV is working perfectly. It was very easy. Probably 50 screws, and a few ribbons and connectors. Anyone who has installed ram in a computer could do this fix. By the way, TV repair guy wanted $550. This cost me $100 and an hour of my time. PM if you want to know where to find the part.
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post #1445 of 2043 Old 05-17-2012, 09:39 PM
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It is my considered opinion that this whole hdmi sensitivity issue, giving the 10 blinks thing, is merely a symptom of the deterioration of the 1uf ceramic caps on the MC201 & MC301 modules. The current leakage in these caps, before they get really bad, will cause the TEA1611 chip in either/both the VSUS and main low voltage power supplies to be right on the borderline of telling the supply to start or not. Any external influence that causes a slight load change, even a ground current path change, can cause startup to fail, giving the blink mode. An isolated vs non-isolated hdmi connection is a darn good recipe for this behaviour.

In other words, install some proper 1uf/50V leaded film capacitors on MC201 & 301, and I would bet money your problem will evaporate. Don't replace them, and I'll further bet that you'll soon start getting blink mode intermittently no matter what inputs you use. Those caps are seriously guaranteed to fail, and it's a miracle when they last more than a few months from new.

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Originally Posted by StuJac View Post

Greetings;

I went through 5 pages of this thread dedicated to the blinking lights issue. I don't see a similar situation to mine so I'm going to ask about it. If this has been fully explained before I apologize. I do not have an HTPC connected; I have a Marrantz receiver connected to HDMI1 and all my components run through the Marrantz. There is some anomaly that occurs when turning off the tv using a macro on my universal remote (same thing happens with 3 different universal remotes). The tv will turn off and go into the 10 blink mode. I can reboot it by unplugging and plugging it in again and it solves the problem.

I guess my question is has anybody experienced this without an HTPC involved and if so, what is the workaround.

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post #1446 of 2043 Old 05-19-2012, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephensank View Post

It is my considered opinion that this whole hdmi sensitivity issue, giving the 10 blinks thing, is merely a symptom of the deterioration of the 1uf ceramic caps on the MC201 & MC301 modules. The current leakage in these caps, before they get really bad, will cause the TEA1611 chip in either/both the VSUS and main low voltage power supplies to be right on the borderline of telling the supply to start or not. Any external influence that causes a slight load change, even a ground current path change, can cause startup to fail, giving the blink mode. An isolated vs non-isolated hdmi connection is a darn good recipe for this behaviour.

In other words, install some proper 1uf/50V leaded film capacitors on MC201 & 301, and I would bet money your problem will evaporate. Don't replace them, and I'll further bet that you'll soon start getting blink mode intermittently no matter what inputs you use. Those caps are seriously guaranteed to fail, and it's a miracle when they last more than a few months from new.

Well, looks like you are more correct than the rest, so far. I made the switch to HDMI3 on the side panel and it was worse. Every time you powered it off it went directly into the 10 blink mode. I have switched back the HDMI1.

Any chance you can advise on the difficulty level of installing these capacitors? Instructions?

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post #1447 of 2043 Old 05-19-2012, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuJac View Post

Well, looks like you are more correct than the rest, so far. I made the switch to HDMI3 on the side panel and it was worse. Every time you powered it off it went directly into the 10 blink mode. I have switched back the HDMI1.

Any chance you can advise on the difficulty level of installing these capacitors? Instructions?

About six or so posts before this one, I gave pretty detailed info on exactly that. It's extremely easy to damage the tiny printed circuit board "module" when removing the faulty chip capacitor, so it is best not to attempt it yourself, unless you have considerable experience with such things.

Although my business is high end audio service, and ribbon microphones, if you don't have the experience or a skilled local tech, I would be happy to do the replacements for you, if you ship the power supply board to me. PM me if you want to arrange that.
LL
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post #1448 of 2043 Old 05-19-2012, 09:03 PM
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Update: I was looking at replacing the P board anyway so thought I had nothing to lose by trying this. It is a soldering challnge and I haven't done anything like this in years. I spent about $30 at The Shack for what I needed to do the job.(iron,solder and such)
It took me most of the day and night to get the MC301 off of the P board and replace the cap in your pic with a 1.0uf Tantalum Capacitor 35WVDC. My soldering job was not pretty. About midnight thinking I'll have to get this put of the way till I find a P board at the price I'll willing to pay I plugged it in.
To my suprise it completed the prestart. Wondering what blink code I get next I hit power. To my shock it powers on. Hooked up the HDMI from my cable box and adjusted some settings and all seems well. (fingers crossed)

Thanks to you and others that put in the time to fix this.

This was done the end of November and the 50pz80u is still working. Yes it is tedious but can be done. It helps if you've done some soldering in the past.

Attachment 247084
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post #1449 of 2043 Old 05-20-2012, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidOH View Post

This was done the end of November and the 50pz80u is still working. Yes it is tedious but can be done. It helps if you've done some soldering in the past.

Attachment 247084

Thanks guys. If it took David all day, it would take me a week. I'm thinking I need to get about 2 more years out of the set and will then be looking at a 65" replacement. Now that I know I can reboot it (until I can't) I think I'll live with it. If I can no longer reboot it within the 2 year time frame I'll find a local tech and have him reference this thread and the excellent work done by Stephensank.

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post #1450 of 2043 Old 05-20-2012, 04:50 PM
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I feel rather ashamed to write this, but I registered here as this thread helped me to fix my th42pz800B - it was that little 0.1uf Capacitor that gone wrong, as the resistor test on the module booted the TV.


I am under no circumstances an electronics engineer - I know some basic things and I also had a spare power board for the tv (friend of a friend that did not need it - it had corner of PCB broken off, so he just considered it junk and I thought I will get to salvage some parts), and ended up fixing up the broken link by gluing piece together and soldering the trails by hand (don't ask - it just seemed easier than deal with that SMD capacitor).

Scrap board fitted, and Voila, the TV worked! ...for around 20 minutes.

I decided to check Vsus/Ve values (as recommended by the manual upon board replacement). Ve seemed fine, while Vsus would not give me a rating on my multimeter - it would just constantly throw random values between 0 and 500+. I decided that maybe my multimeter is jerking around, so I just picked another one I had lying around (DT830B), and decided to check voltage with this. Alas, I did not realize that one of the probe leads was connected to the 10ADC socket instead of the one for Voltage etc., and upon touching the TPVSUS on SS board, spark and a loud bam ensured, turning of my tv set.

Right now, the TPVSUS test point has a small nice black crater, and TV return 2 blinks upon powering. Following the test procedure, the pin 1 on P board shows around 20k to 40kOhms (I swear my multimeters are dodgy), so I am not sure if that is a short.

Could someone explain to me, what happened? Is it possible that only the diode (That's a diode, right?) on the test point is gone? Do I need to replace both SS and P boards? (Well, I have a P board with the MC201 capacitor problem, so that's not that hard to get, but could the SS board short out the new P board as well?)

EDIT - After checking the board in the morning, I realized that it is more embarrassing than I thought - I actually used TPSS1 instead of TPVSUS test point.. So I guess SS board is dead? what about the Panel itself? is there a chance I destroyed it?
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post #1451 of 2043 Old 05-21-2012, 04:50 AM
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My TH50PX60U is back up and running. And I'm a happy camper. After I replaced the PS board ,(did so because of the flashing trouble code) the problem continued. Then there was no flashing code for a clue where to look. My next move was to change the "D" board ,still no solution. There was an interesting symptom though, the cooling fans would turn on and run for 2 seconds and shut down telling me the protection circuit was functioning. I disconnected the "SC" board and the fans continued running, problem was isolated . Installed another "SC" board and the set fired right up. Whew, 200 bucks later but I'm still happy. One thing I'll pass on is ,,,,shop for board's because prices are all over the place and you can get scorched.
Thanks for the help here on this forum and those who pitched in .

CLIFF
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post #1452 of 2043 Old 05-21-2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidOH View Post

This was done the end of November and the 50pz80u is still working. Yes it is tedious but can be done. It helps if you've done some soldering in the past.

Attachment 247084

You absolutely will need to re-cap MC201 as well, if you want it to keep working for a long time.

A tantalum is an OK choice, although film is better, but others need to please NOTE- tantalum caps are polarised, so one MUST install in correct polarity, which, as I recall, is negative upwards. With film caps, you don't have to worry about this, nor does one have to ever worry about it failing, which is not quite so true with tantalum & electrolytic.
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post #1453 of 2043 Old 05-21-2012, 03:47 PM
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Hi, my TH-42PX80B has no red light what so ever when plugged in and switched on, there is nothing at all, no power, clicks or anything. i know its not the mains lead.
I have taken it to a tech and he reckons its the power supply board but wants to charge me a small fortune to replace it, does anybody know how easy it is to fit this??? Is there even a chance it could just be a fuse on the board as I dont always trust techs as ive been ripped off by many in the past

Please can anyone help??
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post #1454 of 2043 Old 05-21-2012, 07:07 PM
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Hi Boundaryblue, My set is a TH50PX and a "new" power board was 69.50 with shipping
An easy repair procedure.

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post #1455 of 2043 Old 05-21-2012, 09:03 PM
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I have TH-42PZ80U with no power, no power light, no relay clicking. Fuse F602 on the P-Board is blown, but everything else looks okay. The part# is HU215010BEP. So far I have only found Sears Parts Direct with any stock. Anyone have another source for this fuse?
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post #1456 of 2043 Old 05-22-2012, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

I have TH-42PZ80U with no power, no power light, no relay clicking. Fuse F602 on the P-Board is blown, but everything else looks okay. The part# is HU215010BEP. So far I have only found Sears Parts Direct with any stock. Anyone have another source for this fuse?

There is probably a shorted component on the power supply which caused the fuse to blow. You can replace the fuse but, it will most likely blow when power is applied. I would check for a shorted FET mounted to a heat sink somewhere near the fuse, transformer, and bridge rectifier. Check the bridge rectifier for a short as well.
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post #1457 of 2043 Old 05-22-2012, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EG3 View Post

There is probably a shorted component on the power supply which caused the fuse to blow. You can replace the fuse but, it will most likely blow when power is applied. I would check for a shorted FET mounted to a heat sink somewhere near the fuse, transformer, and bridge rectifier. Check the bridge rectifier for a short as well.

Thanks, I'll check when I pull the board. I'm hoping for the less likely scenario that it's only the fuse. This one has the N0AE6KM00001 P-Board which seems harder to get and has heat sinks covering most of the board components.
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post #1458 of 2043 Old 05-22-2012, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjq View Post

Hi Boundaryblue, My set is a TH50PX and a "new" power board was 69.50 with shipping
An easy repair procedure.

CLIFF

Thanks very much cliff, i'll prob order new board then try fit it myself, do you or anyone else know where to order one from as im not having much luck trying to find one from anywhere???
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post #1459 of 2043 Old 05-23-2012, 05:04 AM
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@ Boundaryblue, I used Tristatemodule

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post #1460 of 2043 Old 05-25-2012, 12:04 AM
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Unplugged the set today and plugged it into a surge protector.
Would not power up at all....no blinking...nothing.
Unplugged from surge protector.
Tried several outlets and power cords.
Still will not turn on. The power button on the front does not seem to engage either. No blinking lights...nothing!
?????
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post #1461 of 2043 Old 05-27-2012, 10:32 PM
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Panasonic TH42PZ77 bought on Jan 2, 2008. Died May 26, 2012. 10 blinks.
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post #1462 of 2043 Old 05-29-2012, 06:06 AM
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No blink solid red power comes on black screen blinks to grey that's it help
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post #1463 of 2043 Old 05-29-2012, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dlotchulay View Post

No blink solid red power comes on black screen blinks to grey that's it help

No burnt fuse either took it apart yesterday
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post #1464 of 2043 Old 05-29-2012, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlotchulay View Post

No blink solid red power comes on black screen blinks to grey that's it help

Ummm ... what model?

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post #1465 of 2043 Old 05-29-2012, 10:00 PM
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Had my first encounter with the 10 blinking lights failure a week or two back. My set continued working (tediously) for several days if unplugged between uses and allowed an hour or more between power ups. It seems unwilling to turn on today no matter what. I'm getting the standard clicking when plugged in, and then a brief turn on and the dreaded blinks when powered up.

It's a TH-46PZ85U, made in March 2008 and purchased in August 2008. Extensive Googling (and stephensank's posts) makes it sound like replacing the two caps and the power board will fix the TV, but I haven't troubleshooted my specific issue yet. I'm hesitant to spend half of what a new decent set would cost trying to fix this one, particularly if it turns into a $400+ money pit if several of the boards need to be replaced.

I'm really hesitant to spend money on another Panasonic now, or any large flat panel for that matter, if this is the level of electronic design competence to be expected . Panny plasmas are supposed to be reliable, but what percentage of owners see these failures I wonder. The internet makes it seem like far too high a number.
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post #1466 of 2043 Old 05-30-2012, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SadfacePanny View Post

Had my first encounter with the 10 blinking lights failure a week or two back. My set continued working (tediously) for several days if unplugged between uses and allowed an hour or more between power ups. It seems unwilling to turn on today no matter what. I'm getting the standard clicking when plugged in, and then a brief turn on and the dreaded blinks when powered up.

It's a TH-46PZ85U, made in March 2008 and purchased in August 2008. Extensive Googling (and stephensank's posts) makes it sound like replacing the two caps and the power board will fix the TV, but I haven't troubleshooted my specific issue yet. I'm hesitant to spend half of what a new decent set would cost trying to fix this one, particularly if it turns into a $400+ money pit if several of the boards need to be replaced.

I'm really hesitant to spend money on another Panasonic now, or any large flat panel for that matter, if this is the level of electronic design competence to be expected . Panny plasmas are supposed to be reliable, but what percentage of owners see these failures I wonder. The internet makes it seem like far too high a number.

If you replace, or pay a competent tech to replace, the 1uf chip cap on BOTH the MC201 & MC301 modules with proper polyester film caps, you problems will disappear. Promise. Just keep your fans clean & you'll have no more troubles for some years.

Just don't keep trying to power it up again until the repair is done, as you could provoke other component failures that would otherwise never happen.

And same advice for SAMW in post 1461 above.
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post #1467 of 2043 Old 05-30-2012, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samw View Post

Panasonic TH42PZ77 bought on Jan 2, 2008. Died May 26, 2012. 10 blinks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stephensank View Post

If you replace, or pay a competent tech to replace, the 1uf chip cap on BOTH the MC201 & MC301 modules with proper polyester film caps, you problems will disappear. Promise. Just keep your fans clean & you'll have no more troubles for some years.

Just don't keep trying to power it up again until the repair is done, as you could provoke other component failures that would otherwise never happen.

And same advice for SAMW in post 1461 above.

stephensank,

So far it appeared that the MC201 and MC301 modules only applied to the PZ8* models. Does the PZ7* series also have the MC modules? Or, are the failing capacitors located somewhere else on that series?

BTW, thank you for all of your help!

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post #1468 of 2043 Old 05-31-2012, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EG3 View Post

There is probably a shorted component on the power supply which caused the fuse to blow. You can replace the fuse but, it will most likely blow when power is applied. I would check for a shorted FET mounted to a heat sink somewhere near the fuse, transformer, and bridge rectifier. Check the bridge rectifier for a short as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

Thanks, I'll check when I pull the board. I'm hoping for the less likely scenario that it's only the fuse. This one has the N0AE6KM00001 P-Board which seems harder to get and has heat sinks covering most of the board components.

EG3, you were right. I replaced the fuse and it blew again. I checked what I could without desoldering everything and found nothing, but I saw a blue spark around the nearest rectifier when I plugged it in. Seems like more trouble than it's worth to diagnose, so I ordered a new P-Board which should be here on Monday.
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post #1469 of 2043 Old 05-31-2012, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

stephensank,

So far it appeared that the MC201 and MC301 modules only applied to the PZ8* models. Does the PZ7* series also have the MC modules? Or, are the failing capacitors located somewhere else on that series?

BTW, thank you for all of your help!

I haven't specifically looked up a manual for the PZ7xx series to check, but I would be surprised, from the troubles they have, if they did not also have the same modules on a similar PS board.
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post #1470 of 2043 Old 06-01-2012, 09:37 AM
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I have a 42 inch plasma TV which I purchased in 2008. Two weeks ago it suddenly shut down and its power LED blinks 6 times and then completely turns off. If I start to switch it again it does the same thing.
I sent it in to Panasonic and they tested it for 2 days and said it worked fine. They returned it and it had been working fine till today when I tried connecting it to my Laptop through HDMI. Did the same six flashes, I unplugged it for around 15 min. Plugged it back in and its working fine again.
What could be causing this malfunction. If it helps, I have the TV connected to a QED Power conditioner through a MGE UPS. The HDMI cables that I use are QED gold plated edition.
Thank You.
My setup is as follows:
PS3, Denon DVD player, WDTV 1st generation (connected to a 1TB HDD) all three going into a Oppo HDMI switcher which relays the signal through another HDMI cable to my Denon AVR and from there to my Plasma (as my plasma only has one HDMI port). So, whenever I use any of these 3 devices sound is relayed through my amplifier to my KEF towers.
In addition I have a Coship digital set top box connected to my Plasma through normal av cables.
For the record, around 2 months ago my WDTV started playing up. It would randomly restart itself during a movie playing. I googled and found that I'll have to replace the unit. Just thought I'd mention it if someone sees a connection between the two or not.
Thank you.
ehsenshaikh is offline  
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