Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 69 - AVS Forum
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post #2041 of 2058 Old 07-11-2014, 02:29 PM
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Is anyone able to help with my problem?
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post #2042 of 2058 Old 07-11-2014, 02:44 PM
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Thanks kdh05. I am a novice at soldering... What is flux?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdh05 View Post
Don't worry about the heatshrink on that orange cap, no problem.

You did great! And the tv will probably work as is indefinitely.

But, if you add a dab of flux on each lead of the two caps, then put the iron on each one for about two seconds, it would smooth out the joint and make it a better solder joint, too.

Enjoy your tv!
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post #2043 of 2058 Old 07-11-2014, 05:18 PM
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So my 2007 Panasonic TH-42PZ700U developed 10 blink syndrome on Mon. I replaced it with a Sony KDL-50W800B but I would like to repair the Panny if possible.

I took the back off but I see no obviously burned components.

What should my next steps be?

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post #2044 of 2058 Old 07-14-2014, 08:18 AM
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hello
first of all im sorry if i post it at a wrong place

i have panasonic plasma th-p50xt50m .i purchased it in the middle east
it has a funny problem
everything is okay untill the electricity disconnect or unplug the power cable !when the electricity becomes disconnect or unplug the power cable, it wont turn on again after at least 8 hours , u need to unplug the power cable during 8 hours! after that it work again and doesnt have any problem ! i have changed the power cable but havent fixed yet ! i checked the fuse, it was okay !
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post #2045 of 2058 Old 07-22-2014, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
<div class="quote-container" data-huddler-embed="/t/1001318/master-thread-for-panasonic-plasma-not-turning-on/1980#post_24690901" data-huddler-embed-placeholder="false"><span>Quote:</span>
<div class="quote-block">Originally Posted by <strong>utexas05alum</strong> <a href="/t/1001318/master-thread-for-panasonic-plasma-not-turning-on/1980#post_24690901"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="/img/forum/go_quote.gif"></a><br><br>
Thanks for the reply! I have a few questions. Do you have a link to the flowchart? What tool would I need to test for 5V on pin 9 of connector P25/A25? If I need to replace an entire board, does that require soldering?</div>
</div>
<br>
Soldering, no. Screwdriver, yes.<br><br>
A multimeter even a cheapie should do for the 5V check.<br><br>
I can give a link but you'll have to join up or try google.<br><br>
2009_PDP_Troubleshooting_Handbook_TTG090507CP-REV091117<br><br>
<a href="http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=70990&amp;d=1379558811 " target="_blank">http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=70990&amp;d=1379558811 </a>
I've been really busy the last 2 months and haven't gotten around to repairing my TC-P65V10 that had the 1 blinking light issue (also been using the upstairs TV). Well, after the TV was unplugged for over 2 months, I plugged it in and tried turning it on and it worked! It's still working so far after a few days of regular use.

Any idea what could have happened inside the TV for it to start working? Do you think it will last?
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post #2046 of 2058 Old 07-30-2014, 06:14 AM
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Model TH-50PE8U No Picture or sound

My 50" Panasonic Plasma TV Model # TH-50PE8U will turn on to a black screen then dim to a darker black and nothing else happens. No buttons work, can't get any screens to come up what so ever. I have left unplugged for different time periods from 5 minutes up to 24 hours. I have tried leaving it on and it will just stay on for about 5-10 minutes then shut off and immediately come back on with the black screen then dim again. The red power light just comes on and stays, no flashing or anything. I left it on overnight last night for approximately 6 hours and when I woke up the tv was off. I turned it on and back to the same results. Any clue as to what is wrong with this or is it time to buy a new tv? I also found that this was a promo model shipped out a few weeks before the actual model so I can't find much on it. I purchased this in November of 2008. TV was manufactured in October of 2008.
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post #2047 of 2058 Old 08-01-2014, 07:39 PM
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7 blinks is power or not

I see from the first thread that 7 blinks is meant to be a power issue, but then later on it is an SD,SC,SU. Then I read it depends on model?
I have a TH-58PZ850A 7 blinking lights
Is this power or S boards on this model?
I have unplugged the two leads from SU and then it stays green (no picture of course)






Also I have a TH-50PZ800A, everything works, OSD works, just no picture from any source
I have pulled the back off both models and nothing seems interchangeable which is frustrating.






Both failed in the last 6 months.
which is not an expense I was counting on
New LED Panasonic is not as good a picture but instant youtube via iPhone and 3d is very cool
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post #2048 of 2058 Old 08-03-2014, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post
Everyday we see a new thread about Panasonic Plasma's not turning on. If your set fails to turn on and you have a blinking light, post here. Hopefully this will keep all of the info in one place and everybody can stop asking the same question.

If it blinks 7 times, your power supply is shot
If it blinks 10 times, a video board went bad.

Please also post the size of your set, city it was purchased in, and build on date (back of your set).

Check out this link for more info:
http://www.bruzziforum.com/vbf/showthread.php?t=79
mine blinks 8 times what does that mine its a 48 inch
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post #2049 of 2058 Old 08-03-2014, 12:48 PM
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ok i have a 48 inch and it blinks 8 times what does that mean
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post #2050 of 2058 Old 08-04-2014, 08:53 AM
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Another 10-blink code fixed (on TH-42PZ800)

Also had the 10-blink error on my 2007 TH-42PZ800. First few times it got away by powering off and waiting some time. But after I got back from my holidays (2 weeks tv unpowered) it would
not turn on anymore. Changed the caps on the MCx01 boards and it turned on perfectly right away, so many thanks to kdh05.

Note that I found it easier to solder the caps directly on pins 1-3 on the IC instead of the solder pads.
And indeed, a 1uF SMD cap in that size is not so reliable over time / temperature changes.

Does anybody know what the purpose of that cap is ? Is it just some decoupling or used as a time-constant (RC) to check if a certain voltage comes up within a certain time ?
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post #2051 of 2058 Old 08-05-2014, 12:23 PM
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Hi all I have a panasonic TH -37PW7 plasma bought back in 2005 in the UK. It's been working great until a couple of nights ago. All of a sudden it went to standby and blinked 4 times with the red led. I turned it off and on and it came back to life for a few minutes and then went to standby with the 4 blinks again. I've tried it several times over the last few days and sometimes it will manage 10 minutes and another only 2 minutes. After doing a little research I found a service manual online which said it is the 5v sos. Is there a part I can by to replace this or is it on one of the boards.
Thanks in advance Liam
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post #2052 of 2058 Old 08-18-2014, 04:07 PM
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Greetings, I found this forum while searching for info on "Panasonic Plasma TV Pop". The link provided with info to bruzziforum.com no longer works and while I searched through a couple pages I couldn't find anything that didn't reference a blink code.

I have a Panasonic TC-P42U2 that was made in 2010, given to me 3 years ago. My mother and her boyfriend were watching a Baseball game and said they heard a pop and then the TV turned off. Since I was not around I'm not sure exactly what happened. When I try to power on the TV their is no response. No blinking lights, nothing. I'm about to crack open the back, but I have little-no experience with TV's only similar experience with computers and blowing out resistors. Considering taking it to a repair shop. I was quoted $45 for a diagnostic, but I'd like a little more info before I just waste the money if it's totally shot. Thanks for any help.
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post #2053 of 2058 Old 08-19-2014, 10:44 AM
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Hi! I have a TH-PZ46850U 46" Panasonic Plasma, built in 2008, bought brand new and first powered-up was in March/April 2009. Initially died with the 10-blink code two weeks ago. Then, suspecting my high-grade power block (because my Ooma Telo was also out and this was connected to the same 'column' of plugs on the block), I moved the TV to the other column of outlets on the block and the TV powered up and ran fine. Pure coincidence, apparently, because on next power-up, back to the same thing (no picture, 10 blinks).

So I let the TV sit for about a week or so, reconnected the cable box, and tried powering it up for a football game I wanted to watch on NFL Network. No luck. But now it's showing a 2-blink code. 10-blink code seems to have gone away.

Tonight I will be trying the HDMI port swap to see if plugging the cable box into a different port (it was always on HDMI-1) will allow the set to run properly. Not holding out much hope for this, though.

So I expect to be opening up the set. Here's my question: how long before those three big 900 uF caps discharge/decay to safe levels?? The set's been sitting now for a few days, but if I power it up during testing, how long should I wait after powering down to allow those caps to die down?? Safety is my biggest concern here.
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post #2054 of 2058 Old 08-20-2014, 06:58 PM
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As expected, moving the cable box HDMI cable to any other HDMI input other than #1 did not make the set work. I'm still getting the 2 clicks, then the 3rd distant click on plug-in (which I think is actually good), followed by the 2-blink code when I press the power button on the remote (even if the cable box is initially OFF). And I thought I had lost the original 10-blink code forever, but found that if I press and hold in the power button on the front panel and *then* try to turn on the set, I get the 10-blink code again.

So ... it looks like the next thing to try is the cap replacement. I bought the can of Duster at WalMart (actually a knock-off can for $5). Will try freezing the IC and going from there. As for soldering irons, I think I have a 30-watt Radio Shack iron. I see a 15-watt at Radio Shack. Also see a Weller 15 and a Weller 12 watt online which look ideal (pencil-thin barrels). Is it worth ordering one of these, or should I just go with the standard Radio Shack 15 watt iron? For solder, do I want lead or lead-free, rosin core, etc?? Also, how about flux?
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post #2055 of 2058 Old Yesterday, 10:31 AM
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Just got off the phone with Panasonic. Told them my Panasonic TH-46PZ850U 46" Plasma had failed with the 10-blink code. Told them it was 4 years old (I think it's actually 5). Told them I knew it was out of warranty but wanted to know if there was any "Good Will" program to fix all these defective sets.

They put me on hold, then told me the set was out of warranty and wanted to know if there was anything else they could "help" me with.

So ... time to open the set up.
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post #2056 of 2058 Old Yesterday, 11:51 AM
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Called the nearest "Authorized Panasonic Service Center". They want $200-$400 to repair. Entire set needs to be carried in. Cannot debug a particular board if, say, I wanted to guess that the problem was in the power supply.

All options apparently exhausted ... except me. Wish me luck. Hope those big caps don't fry me...
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post #2057 of 2058 Old Yesterday, 04:12 PM
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a TC-P50G15 (2009 model) with a 2-blink SOS.
I've been looking through similar sets troubleshooting, but the boards seem to all be close but not exact.

One post on a different forum mentioned checking the continuity between the leads on the SC2 connection, and if there is continuity then the SC board is toast (or at least a couple ICs/Caps). There is continuity between the contacts, so as I read it, there is a short on the SC board. When I disconnect the SC2 connector, I then get an 8 blink SOS, which points to the SS or A board, depending on the troubleshooting guide I'm looking at.

Can anyone provide an assist for the troubleshooting steps for this model?

Thanks!
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post #2058 of 2058 Old Yesterday, 07:10 PM
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I was able to locate a troubleshooting guide for a G20/G25 chassis. Apparently that is close enough in the circuitry.
It confirms the SC board is bad. (P2 pin 1 short when connected to SC2, resistance in spec when disconnected from SC2. Disconnecting P2 and SC20 switches the SOS to 6 blinks)

Now the question is: How hard is troubleshooting the individual components on the board? I have heard the parts are somewhere in the single digit $ total, I'd hate to pay $100+ for the ebay "swap" auctions if it's a simple IC that I can get someone to assist with soldering (last time I tried, I smoked a board)...
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