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post #2071 of 2091 Old 08-24-2014, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
I have no idea really but it's not the first time i've heard of intermittent 1 blink.
After my last post, it worked fine for a few days and then stopped working again with the 1 blink issue. I'm going to try and work this week on fixing it.
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post #2072 of 2091 Old 08-25-2014, 01:39 AM
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Red face Fix works fine thank you richard uk

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Originally Posted by svkowalski View Post
i too had the 10-blink problem with my panasonic th-42px80u, but i found the cause and have a workaround. Here's what i found:

I ran into the problem 4 hours after installing the set. I called plasma concierge, & they dispatched a tech to replace the board. 3 days later, i had the problem again, so i took my set back to sears for an exchange.

When i ran into the problem on my new set, i figured something outside the tv might be causing the problem. I have a home theater pc plugged in via dvi-hdmi cable. I discovered that if i unplugged the cable & held the power button in for about 10 seconds, i could reset the tv (this way i didn't lose all my configuration settings). Then, after turning on the tv, i could plug in the dvi-hdmi cable & everything was fine.

Eventually, i found that i could always reproduce the problem in the following sequence:
1. Turn off tv
2. Turn on htpc
3. Turn on tv

if i turn on the tv first, then the pc, no problem. If i turn on the tv with the cable unplugged, then plugged it in, again no problem. After researching ground loop & other possible causes, i could not find any combination of cabling that would prevent the problem, until i discovered i could plug the pc into the front hdmi port of the tv & everything works fine.

So i've been working with panasonic to figure out why the rear hdmi ports are susceptible to this problem, but the front port is not. Since this solved my 10-blink problem (so far!), i'm keeping the tv. Don't yet have a resolution from panasonic...

Hope this helps those who may have a similar situation. I'll post an update once i hear back from panasonic about this.
excellant advise thank you from richard uk fixed.
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post #2073 of 2091 Old 08-27-2014, 08:13 AM
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Okay, I'm back. This is my last attempt at trying to fix my Panasonic. I've posted here before with questions trying to get my TC-P55ST50 fixed and got so frustrated that I shelved the project for a few months. Having a backup tv has really hindered progress on this thing.

To those who know more than I do and are gracious enough to give advice in this thread (ahem... TW2005), here is a brief summary of the problem.

I initially diagnosed the problem as an SS board problem with the 6 blink error code using the 2012 Panasonic troubleshooting guide I found online. (Side note: this guide states that it specifically applies to the TC-P50ST50 and the TC-P50UT50 modles, but I assume that the blink codes for the 50" and 55" inch models are the same).

I replaced the SS only to get a new blink code of 8. Diagnosed the problem to be a bad SC and verified that the existing board had severe burns/brown patches all over the PCB. Several components also appeared to be shorted out. So I replaced the SC and SS yesterday.

Now I (presumably) have a working SC and a working SS board. I powered on the TV and got 8 blink again. Following the troubleshooting guide, I removed the connector from the SS to the A board and powered on again. TV turned on and remained on with black screen. Turned TV off and checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of connector SS52. This checked out ok so I then checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of SS54, SS55, and SS57 and these also looked ok.

At this point, the guide suggests replacing the SS2 board but I wasn't convinced. Having a fair amount of confidence that my new SS board is not the problem, I decided to focus on the SS2. Looking at the schematics from the Chassis guide, the SS2 board is very simple. Each of the 3 resistors were not shorted (meter showed 117kOhms each, but can't verify the actual resistance without removing the resistors). I also performed a diode check on each diode. I forgot to test diode D16362 but I doubt that there is a problem there as a visual check of the entire board showed no evidence of problems.

SO. Now I'm concerned that it may be a problem with the panel or the connection/connections from the SS/SS2 board to the panel sustain electrodes.

One last thing that I observed from the troubleshooting guide. For 8 blink errors, the guide states that the circuits monitored are the sustain drive circuit and the connection between the SS board and the panel. Conditions that could trigger this shutdown include: abnormality of the sustain drive circuit, open or loose connection between SS/SS2 boards and FPCs from the panel (SS52, SS54, SS55, SS57), Open or loose connection between connectors C10/C20 or C26/C36, or wrong diagnostic by the A board.

That's a lot of possibilities and I feel like I've eliminated most of them. I don't think the A board is a problem since the TV turns on fine when I disconnect the SS board. Also, the connections on the C boards appear fine.

Does anyone know if there is a way that I can verify that the problem is with the panel? Or have any other advice on circuits/boards to check out? Should I still try to replace the SS2 board? If it's the panel, I'll finally be able to send this TV into oblivion and get a new one but until I know for sure that it isn't a less serious and fixable problem, I can't let it go.

Thanks.
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post #2074 of 2091 Old 08-27-2014, 08:59 AM
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Hi, Welcome to this Forum Site Here u can find lots of members Related to ur problem ,
I suggested u for this question you have to ask to the experts , i dont know about this problem
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post #2075 of 2091 Old 08-30-2014, 11:17 AM
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Hi guys,

I bought my Panasonic TCP50U50 in July of 2012. In October of 2013 it failed on me with 8 blinking lights, I had it fixed by a repair shop for about $230. It worked without problem until yesterday (August of 2014) when it failed on me again with 8 blinking lights.

I am kind of torn on the situation, I realize that the problem is very simple and cheap to fix for someone with the skills and know-how. It would be a shame to get rid of it. However, I am not handy enough to do a DIY fix. I don't want to put out the money for a professional repair job again if it going to consistently fail on a yearly basis and the repair is only going to buy me another 10-14 months.

I guess the best avenue is call up Panasonic and tell my story? They did say they would compensate me for SOME of the repair costs last time around (the TV had just gone out of warranty), they never told me how much. I never got around to following up with them after the repair because I was just happy my TV was working again.

This time I expect I will get same routine, they will direct me to the nearest certified repair shop and tell me the TV is out of warranty. Hopefully if I state my case enough they may offer me a decent amount of compensation?

Last edited by cf92; 08-30-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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post #2076 of 2091 Old 09-02-2014, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curt11 View Post
Okay, I'm back. This is my last attempt at trying to fix my Panasonic. I've posted here before with questions trying to get my TC-P55ST50 fixed and got so frustrated that I shelved the project for a few months. Having a backup tv has really hindered progress on this thing.

To those who know more than I do and are gracious enough to give advice in this thread (ahem... TW2005), here is a brief summary of the problem.

I initially diagnosed the problem as an SS board problem with the 6 blink error code using the 2012 Panasonic troubleshooting guide I found online. (Side note: this guide states that it specifically applies to the TC-P50ST50 and the TC-P50UT50 modles, but I assume that the blink codes for the 50" and 55" inch models are the same).

I replaced the SS only to get a new blink code of 8. Diagnosed the problem to be a bad SC and verified that the existing board had severe burns/brown patches all over the PCB. Several components also appeared to be shorted out. So I replaced the SC and SS yesterday.

Now I (presumably) have a working SC and a working SS board. I powered on the TV and got 8 blink again. Following the troubleshooting guide, I removed the connector from the SS to the A board and powered on again. TV turned on and remained on with black screen. Turned TV off and checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of connector SS52. This checked out ok so I then checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of SS54, SS55, and SS57 and these also looked ok.

At this point, the guide suggests replacing the SS2 board but I wasn't convinced. Having a fair amount of confidence that my new SS board is not the problem, I decided to focus on the SS2. Looking at the schematics from the Chassis guide, the SS2 board is very simple. Each of the 3 resistors were not shorted (meter showed 117kOhms each, but can't verify the actual resistance without removing the resistors). I also performed a diode check on each diode. I forgot to test diode D16362 but I doubt that there is a problem there as a visual check of the entire board showed no evidence of problems.

SO. Now I'm concerned that it may be a problem with the panel or the connection/connections from the SS/SS2 board to the panel sustain electrodes.

One last thing that I observed from the troubleshooting guide. For 8 blink errors, the guide states that the circuits monitored are the sustain drive circuit and the connection between the SS board and the panel. Conditions that could trigger this shutdown include: abnormality of the sustain drive circuit, open or loose connection between SS/SS2 boards and FPCs from the panel (SS52, SS54, SS55, SS57), Open or loose connection between connectors C10/C20 or C26/C36, or wrong diagnostic by the A board.

That's a lot of possibilities and I feel like I've eliminated most of them. I don't think the A board is a problem since the TV turns on fine when I disconnect the SS board. Also, the connections on the C boards appear fine.

Does anyone know if there is a way that I can verify that the problem is with the panel? Or have any other advice on circuits/boards to check out? Should I still try to replace the SS2 board? If it's the panel, I'll finally be able to send this TV into oblivion and get a new one but until I know for sure that it isn't a less serious and fixable problem, I can't let it go.

Thanks.


Maybe have a good look at the SS board for shorted components below. Always a chance you got a bad SS board.


http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...ht=ut50&page=3
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post #2077 of 2091 Old 09-02-2014, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cf92 View Post
Hi guys,

I bought my Panasonic TCP50U50 in July of 2012. In October of 2013 it failed on me with 8 blinking lights, I had it fixed by a repair shop for about $230. It worked without problem until yesterday (August of 2014) when it failed on me again with 8 blinking lights.

I am kind of torn on the situation, I realize that the problem is very simple and cheap to fix for someone with the skills and know-how. It would be a shame to get rid of it. However, I am not handy enough to do a DIY fix. I don't want to put out the money for a professional repair job again if it going to consistently fail on a yearly basis and the repair is only going to buy me another 10-14 months.

I guess the best avenue is call up Panasonic and tell my story? They did say they would compensate me for SOME of the repair costs last time around (the TV had just gone out of warranty), they never told me how much. I never got around to following up with them after the repair because I was just happy my TV was working again.

This time I expect I will get same routine, they will direct me to the nearest certified repair shop and tell me the TV is out of warranty. Hopefully if I state my case enough they may offer me a decent amount of compensation?


Assuming this is yet another SS and possibly poor earthing issue due to loose screws, $230 is a decent chunk of $$.


Maybe get a screw set http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-x...-screw-kit.htm


And get the SS board repaired for about $50, http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/...5623ab&x=0&y=0


Installation and removal should not be too difficult.
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post #2078 of 2091 Old 09-11-2014, 01:57 PM
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About to try and remove the board from a Panny 50PZ80U and have it serviced by mail. Am I endangering my life by doing this?
Is there any kind of voltage issue I need to be worried about in removing and then re-installing the board?
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post #2079 of 2091 Old 09-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renzo12 View Post
About to try and remove the board from a Panny 50PZ80U and have it serviced by mail. Am I endangering my life by doing this?
Is there any kind of voltage issue I need to be worried about in removing and then re-installing the board?
Provided power has been disconnected for some time you should be fine. Only danger is stored voltage in the 400v caps but since It's not working I assume the TV has been left unplugged.
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post #2080 of 2091 Old 09-11-2014, 08:26 PM
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Provided power has been disconnected for some time you should be fine. Only danger is stored voltage in the 400v caps but since It's not working I assume the TV has been left unplugged.
Died last week. Been turned on a couple of times since, for maybe 5 minutes at a clip.
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post #2081 of 2091 Old 09-11-2014, 08:30 PM
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My samsung did the same thing
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post #2082 of 2091 Old 09-11-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Renzo12 View Post
Died last week. Been turned on a couple of times since, for maybe 5 minutes at a clip.
I guess you know most of the PZ80/800 psu repairs involve replacing a small ceramic cap on the mc201/301 modules. Cheap fix but if you don't have the gear or skills then that's a shame. 2 or 10blinks I assume you have
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post #2083 of 2091 Old 09-12-2014, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
I guess you know most of the PZ80/800 psu repairs involve replacing a small ceramic cap on the mc201/301 modules. Cheap fix but if you don't have the gear or skills then that's a shame. 2 or 10blinks I assume you have
Yep, two. Don't know where to get the cap and have never sodiered (sp) anything before.
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post #2084 of 2091 Old 09-12-2014, 05:57 PM
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Speaking of the cap change to mc201/301 modules, I see electrolytic caps being recommended for the fix. Electrolytic are one of the less reliable caps (better these days, but still...). Wouldn't a good ceramic MLCC in an X7R rating be longer lasting?

And does anyone know what form factor the stock cap is (0603? 0805?)

My 42" started intermittently exhibiting the 10 blinks and some searches led here. I bought a kit from epay, and will take care of it shortly.

I have seen reference to a 4.7k resistor between pin 13 on the IC and 12 of the board connector (have it bookmarked). Is this fix still recommended? I would be doing this in conjunction with cap replacement (definitely) and IC change if needed.

Thanks, and nice forum!
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post #2085 of 2091 Old 09-17-2014, 08:18 PM
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TC-P50ST60 2 Blinks

Complete noob trying to repair an issue with my ST60 - TV will turn on but then shuts off w/ 2 blink code. Out of warranty, but the shop wants ~$400 to fix this which seems exorbitant given that the part is available for $40 on eBay.

From what I've managed to find online, it looks like the P or A boards are the suspects.

I have never done any TV repair, but would purchasing a P board (I think the TXN/P1UJUU (TNPA5717), be the right first step? Are these reasonably easy to swap out?

The 2013 troubleshooting guide I found mentions checking a pin with a voltmeter...would it be reasonable to just try replacing the P board first and see what happens?

There should be no safety issue since the TV has been unplugged for weeks, but after plugging it in to test it if I need to open it back up, what's the deal?

Apologies if some of this is already answered, had trouble finding the answers. Any help would be super appreciated!
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post #2086 of 2091 Old 09-18-2014, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by eab6287 View Post
Complete noob trying to repair an issue with my ST60 - TV will turn on but then shuts off w/ 2 blink code. Out of warranty, but the shop wants ~$400 to fix this which seems exorbitant given that the part is available for $40 on eBay.

From what I've managed to find online, it looks like the P or A boards are the suspects.

I have never done any TV repair, but would purchasing a P board (I think the TXN/P1UJUU (TNPA5717), be the right first step? Are these reasonably easy to swap out?

The 2013 troubleshooting guide I found mentions checking a pin with a voltmeter...would it be reasonable to just try replacing the P board first and see what happens?

There should be no safety issue since the TV has been unplugged for weeks, but after plugging it in to test it if I need to open it back up, what's the deal?

Apologies if some of this is already answered, had trouble finding the answers. Any help would be super appreciated!

Well, you could always go down that path or see if you can get a multimeter and check if the 15v is present at switch on momentarily or not. if not I'd remove power and then measure the resistance there and see if shorted.

Is it Model No.TC-P2013TI Tech guide you found?

It says a short causes 10 blink but I would not take it for granted.

I have not read much in way of faults elsewhere on the 2013 models so I only know what is written in the guide but failed SC or SS boards or shorts can throw some unusual codes and the guides don't always cover all scenarios.

It'd be real annoying if you replaced both the A and P boards and ended up being still 2 blinks.

Try this and see if it changes anything.

TV off, disconnect the following

At power board, P2,P11,P35 (power leads)

At A board, A33, A20 (white ribbons)

Turn on and see if it turns on with no blinks, have on only long enough to verify faulted/not faulted

Leave all power cables disconnected for 5 mins or more so power bleeds off otherwise you may spike a board or panel (P35) and a spiked panel is terminal/not repairable.

If it still 2 blinks, you'd have to follow the fault finding chart for P or A or take a gamble on which one it is.

http://www.csportal.panasonic-la.com...50ST60L_SM.pdf

http://www.serwis-elektroniki.com.pl...oting_2013.pdf
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post #2087 of 2091 Old 09-19-2014, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by utexas05alum View Post
After my last post, it worked fine for a few days and then stopped working again with the 1 blink issue. I'm going to try and work this week on fixing it.
After my last reply, I opened up my TC-P65V10 and reseated the P25/A25 cable. The TV turned on and worked for a few days but after heavy use one night, would not turn back on, again with the 1 red blink.

I decided to send the A board into ModusLink PTS and have it repaired. Unfortunately, they couldn't find anything wrong with the A board. They suggested that it might be an issue with the power supply. I'm considering sending that in to get repaired, but have a few questions before I do.

1) After my set has been unplugged for at least 3 or more days, it will turn on successfully and work fine for as long as it's on. However, when I turn it off, it won't turn back on and has the 1 blink code again. To me, this sounds like a part inside the TV is heating up and once it gets too hot, the TV won't turn on again until the part is allowed to completely cool over several days. In that case, would it be a power supply problem? I would think that if it was a power supply problem the set wouldn't turn on at all.

2) Does the TC-P65V10 have 2 boards for the power supply? In the center of the back of the TV, there are 2 yellow boards directly next to each other. The part numbers for the boards are ETX2MM774MA and ETX2MM774MG. To repair the power supply, do I need to send in both of these boards to get repaired or just one of them?

You can find them on the ModusLink PTS site here:

http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/ETX2MM774MA/
http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/ETX2MM774MG/

3) The part that the electrical cord plugs into is a silver rectangular box with the TDK-Lambda logo and "EMC filter" on it. What is that? Is it part of the power supply?

Thanks!

TW2005 - sorry I tagged you, I was trying to assign that to my post, not the whole thread. I can't find how to remove the tag.
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post #2088 of 2091 Old 09-20-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by utexas05alum View Post
After my last reply, I opened up my TC-P65V10 and reseated the P25/A25 cable. The TV turned on and worked for a few days but after heavy use one night, would not turn back on, again with the 1 red blink.

I decided to send the A board into ModusLink PTS and have it repaired. Unfortunately, they couldn't find anything wrong with the A board. They suggested that it might be an issue with the power supply. I'm considering sending that in to get repaired, but have a few questions before I do.

1) After my set has been unplugged for at least 3 or more days, it will turn on successfully and work fine for as long as it's on. However, when I turn it off, it won't turn back on and has the 1 blink code again. To me, this sounds like a part inside the TV is heating up and once it gets too hot, the TV won't turn on again until the part is allowed to completely cool over several days. In that case, would it be a power supply problem? I would think that if it was a power supply problem the set wouldn't turn on at all.

2) Does the TC-P65V10 have 2 boards for the power supply? In the center of the back of the TV, there are 2 yellow boards directly next to each other. The part numbers for the boards are ETX2MM774MA and ETX2MM774MG. To repair the power supply, do I need to send in both of these boards to get repaired or just one of them?

You can find them on the ModusLink PTS site here:

http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/ETX2MM774MA/
http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/ETX2MM774MG/

3) The part that the electrical cord plugs into is a silver rectangular box with the TDK-Lambda logo and "EMC filter" on it. What is that? Is it part of the power supply?

Thanks!

TW2005 - sorry I tagged you, I was trying to assign that to my post, not the whole thread. I can't find how to remove the tag.
This is a really tough one. anything intermittent is near impossible to fault find. I'd be checking what voltages are present when it faults on the A board like the 5v line.

You could be tipping a lot of money at a ghost. with the PSU. Unless the PSU has a fault realistically what are they going to do or replace?

Highly doubt they would recap the entire board either and lets say its a bad cap somewhere including surface mounted ceramics? Could evn be a bad cap on the A board.

I have read somewhere I think that someone found a bad ceramic on an A board for 1 blink

It's a crap sandwich which ever way it's cut. Wish i could guid eyou more but the only 1 blink i've experimented with was a bad eeprom, yours seems like it may be something else.
Did they give a report on how/what they tested? You seem to get it to fail but I wonder if they simply turned it on and it worked so case closed?

Since you think it's heat related, have yo tried turning it on and then turn it off and grab a hair dryer and get some heat into the A board and see if you can induce the fault?

I think the first thing would be to narrow it to a board at least. 65V10 would not be a common size people would buy. Be nice if you knew someone you could board swap to test.

The TDK is just a line filter, ignore that, the PSu and sub psu, without looking the sub would be for the panel voltages, the main would be the one if any that feeds the A board.

That's a question you should asked them but hard to suggest you send the PSU in .

I'll have a searc through badcaps and see if there's any history , I expect not. Very few attempt to repair SOS 1 except to replace the A board. It's an expensive item usually.

i guess you've looked at this?

maybe check that 5v and when it faults check again but check both sides ie the PSU lead and then on the A board side as well and confirm ithere's a good connection at p25. i guess when id does fault you did a reseat of that connector? you said you did that and it was good for a few days
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post #2089 of 2091 Old Yesterday, 06:36 PM
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Well, our TH-42PZ85U that I had mentioned in the previous post would not turn on on Saturday night, so I went ahead and repaired the MC201/301 on Sunday (ICs and electrolytic cap replacements), and it is working great now. Ours was a 10-blink failure, and had been intermittent up until then.

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Yep, two. Don't know where to get the cap and have never sodiered (sp) anything before.
Renzo:
ebay item number 141184284454
This is where I got mine, but if you haven't soldered before, this isn't the place to start.

Do you have any friends who have SMD soldering experience/equipment? If not, I don't know if a TV/electronics repair place would do the work for you if you told them what you wanted done and maybe removed the power supply and brought it into them? The disassembly/reassembly was more time/work than actually doing the desoldering/replacement. The guy in the ebay link will also do the boards, and might even accept the entire PSU. Check his other items, and maybe shoot him a message on ebay. Real nice guy in my experience.

If they didn't have the ICs and caps, maybe they would also use your parts?

EDIT: sorry, i don't have enough posts to post links, but see above. Seller's ID is zalinar123
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post #2090 of 2091 Old Yesterday, 09:24 PM
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This is a really tough one. anything intermittent is near impossible to fault find. I'd be checking what voltages are present when it faults on the A board like the 5v line.

You could be tipping a lot of money at a ghost. with the PSU. Unless the PSU has a fault realistically what are they going to do or replace?

Highly doubt they would recap the entire board either and lets say its a bad cap somewhere including surface mounted ceramics? Could evn be a bad cap on the A board.

I have read somewhere I think that someone found a bad ceramic on an A board for 1 blink

It's a crap sandwich which ever way it's cut. Wish i could guid eyou more but the only 1 blink i've experimented with was a bad eeprom, yours seems like it may be something else.
Did they give a report on how/what they tested? You seem to get it to fail but I wonder if they simply turned it on and it worked so case closed?

Since you think it's heat related, have yo tried turning it on and then turn it off and grab a hair dryer and get some heat into the A board and see if you can induce the fault?

I think the first thing would be to narrow it to a board at least. 65V10 would not be a common size people would buy. Be nice if you knew someone you could board swap to test.

The TDK is just a line filter, ignore that, the PSu and sub psu, without looking the sub would be for the panel voltages, the main would be the one if any that feeds the A board.

That's a question you should asked them but hard to suggest you send the PSU in .

I'll have a searc through badcaps and see if there's any history , I expect not. Very few attempt to repair SOS 1 except to replace the A board. It's an expensive item usually.

i guess you've looked at this?

maybe check that 5v and when it faults check again but check both sides ie the PSU lead and then on the A board side as well and confirm ithere's a good connection at p25. i guess when id does fault you did a reseat of that connector? you said you did that and it was good for a few days
Thanks for the response! They didn't give me a report on what they tested, just that it passed their extensive quality assurance blah blah blah. I did reply and explained my issue to them in detail and asked some questions about the PSU repair. I haven't heard back yet. I'm going to wait to hear back before sending anything else to them.

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone that owns another 65V10.

Regarding the P25, yes I did a reseat of that connector a few days after it faulted, and it worked for a few days after that. However, I can't be sure if it was the reseat that caused it to work or just sitting unplugged for a few days.

I'll have to buy a multimeter to test 5V on the P25/A25 connector. Going to wait to hear back from them first.

I might try to induce the 1 blink with the hair dryer, do you think that could damage anything on the A board?
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post #2091 of 2091 Old Today, 06:10 AM
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Thanks for the response! They didn't give me a report on what they tested, just that it passed their extensive quality assurance blah blah blah. I did reply and explained my issue to them in detail and asked some questions about the PSU repair. I haven't heard back yet. I'm going to wait to hear back before sending anything else to them.

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone that owns another 65V10.

Regarding the P25, yes I did a reseat of that connector a few days after it faulted, and it worked for a few days after that. However, I can't be sure if it was the reseat that caused it to work or just sitting unplugged for a few days.

I'll have to buy a multimeter to test 5V on the P25/A25 connector. Going to wait to hear back from them first.

I might try to induce the 1 blink with the hair dryer, do you think that could damage anything on the A board?
Should not provided you don't go silly and heat things beyond their operating parameters. It may not shutdown with a 1 blink once running,so may have to heat up, shutdown and attempt turn on again.
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