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post #2071 of 2086 Old 08-24-2014, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
I have no idea really but it's not the first time i've heard of intermittent 1 blink.
After my last post, it worked fine for a few days and then stopped working again with the 1 blink issue. I'm going to try and work this week on fixing it.
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post #2072 of 2086 Old 08-25-2014, 01:39 AM
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Red face Fix works fine thank you richard uk

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Originally Posted by svkowalski View Post
i too had the 10-blink problem with my panasonic th-42px80u, but i found the cause and have a workaround. Here's what i found:

I ran into the problem 4 hours after installing the set. I called plasma concierge, & they dispatched a tech to replace the board. 3 days later, i had the problem again, so i took my set back to sears for an exchange.

When i ran into the problem on my new set, i figured something outside the tv might be causing the problem. I have a home theater pc plugged in via dvi-hdmi cable. I discovered that if i unplugged the cable & held the power button in for about 10 seconds, i could reset the tv (this way i didn't lose all my configuration settings). Then, after turning on the tv, i could plug in the dvi-hdmi cable & everything was fine.

Eventually, i found that i could always reproduce the problem in the following sequence:
1. Turn off tv
2. Turn on htpc
3. Turn on tv

if i turn on the tv first, then the pc, no problem. If i turn on the tv with the cable unplugged, then plugged it in, again no problem. After researching ground loop & other possible causes, i could not find any combination of cabling that would prevent the problem, until i discovered i could plug the pc into the front hdmi port of the tv & everything works fine.

So i've been working with panasonic to figure out why the rear hdmi ports are susceptible to this problem, but the front port is not. Since this solved my 10-blink problem (so far!), i'm keeping the tv. Don't yet have a resolution from panasonic...

Hope this helps those who may have a similar situation. I'll post an update once i hear back from panasonic about this.
excellant advise thank you from richard uk fixed.
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post #2073 of 2086 Old 08-27-2014, 08:13 AM
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Okay, I'm back. This is my last attempt at trying to fix my Panasonic. I've posted here before with questions trying to get my TC-P55ST50 fixed and got so frustrated that I shelved the project for a few months. Having a backup tv has really hindered progress on this thing.

To those who know more than I do and are gracious enough to give advice in this thread (ahem... TW2005), here is a brief summary of the problem.

I initially diagnosed the problem as an SS board problem with the 6 blink error code using the 2012 Panasonic troubleshooting guide I found online. (Side note: this guide states that it specifically applies to the TC-P50ST50 and the TC-P50UT50 modles, but I assume that the blink codes for the 50" and 55" inch models are the same).

I replaced the SS only to get a new blink code of 8. Diagnosed the problem to be a bad SC and verified that the existing board had severe burns/brown patches all over the PCB. Several components also appeared to be shorted out. So I replaced the SC and SS yesterday.

Now I (presumably) have a working SC and a working SS board. I powered on the TV and got 8 blink again. Following the troubleshooting guide, I removed the connector from the SS to the A board and powered on again. TV turned on and remained on with black screen. Turned TV off and checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of connector SS52. This checked out ok so I then checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of SS54, SS55, and SS57 and these also looked ok.

At this point, the guide suggests replacing the SS2 board but I wasn't convinced. Having a fair amount of confidence that my new SS board is not the problem, I decided to focus on the SS2. Looking at the schematics from the Chassis guide, the SS2 board is very simple. Each of the 3 resistors were not shorted (meter showed 117kOhms each, but can't verify the actual resistance without removing the resistors). I also performed a diode check on each diode. I forgot to test diode D16362 but I doubt that there is a problem there as a visual check of the entire board showed no evidence of problems.

SO. Now I'm concerned that it may be a problem with the panel or the connection/connections from the SS/SS2 board to the panel sustain electrodes.

One last thing that I observed from the troubleshooting guide. For 8 blink errors, the guide states that the circuits monitored are the sustain drive circuit and the connection between the SS board and the panel. Conditions that could trigger this shutdown include: abnormality of the sustain drive circuit, open or loose connection between SS/SS2 boards and FPCs from the panel (SS52, SS54, SS55, SS57), Open or loose connection between connectors C10/C20 or C26/C36, or wrong diagnostic by the A board.

That's a lot of possibilities and I feel like I've eliminated most of them. I don't think the A board is a problem since the TV turns on fine when I disconnect the SS board. Also, the connections on the C boards appear fine.

Does anyone know if there is a way that I can verify that the problem is with the panel? Or have any other advice on circuits/boards to check out? Should I still try to replace the SS2 board? If it's the panel, I'll finally be able to send this TV into oblivion and get a new one but until I know for sure that it isn't a less serious and fixable problem, I can't let it go.

Thanks.
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post #2074 of 2086 Old 08-27-2014, 08:59 AM
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Hi, Welcome to this Forum Site Here u can find lots of members Related to ur problem ,
I suggested u for this question you have to ask to the experts , i dont know about this problem
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post #2075 of 2086 Old 08-30-2014, 11:17 AM
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Hi guys,

I bought my Panasonic TCP50U50 in July of 2012. In October of 2013 it failed on me with 8 blinking lights, I had it fixed by a repair shop for about $230. It worked without problem until yesterday (August of 2014) when it failed on me again with 8 blinking lights.

I am kind of torn on the situation, I realize that the problem is very simple and cheap to fix for someone with the skills and know-how. It would be a shame to get rid of it. However, I am not handy enough to do a DIY fix. I don't want to put out the money for a professional repair job again if it going to consistently fail on a yearly basis and the repair is only going to buy me another 10-14 months.

I guess the best avenue is call up Panasonic and tell my story? They did say they would compensate me for SOME of the repair costs last time around (the TV had just gone out of warranty), they never told me how much. I never got around to following up with them after the repair because I was just happy my TV was working again.

This time I expect I will get same routine, they will direct me to the nearest certified repair shop and tell me the TV is out of warranty. Hopefully if I state my case enough they may offer me a decent amount of compensation?

Last edited by cf92; 08-30-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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post #2076 of 2086 Old 09-02-2014, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curt11 View Post
Okay, I'm back. This is my last attempt at trying to fix my Panasonic. I've posted here before with questions trying to get my TC-P55ST50 fixed and got so frustrated that I shelved the project for a few months. Having a backup tv has really hindered progress on this thing.

To those who know more than I do and are gracious enough to give advice in this thread (ahem... TW2005), here is a brief summary of the problem.

I initially diagnosed the problem as an SS board problem with the 6 blink error code using the 2012 Panasonic troubleshooting guide I found online. (Side note: this guide states that it specifically applies to the TC-P50ST50 and the TC-P50UT50 modles, but I assume that the blink codes for the 50" and 55" inch models are the same).

I replaced the SS only to get a new blink code of 8. Diagnosed the problem to be a bad SC and verified that the existing board had severe burns/brown patches all over the PCB. Several components also appeared to be shorted out. So I replaced the SC and SS yesterday.

Now I (presumably) have a working SC and a working SS board. I powered on the TV and got 8 blink again. Following the troubleshooting guide, I removed the connector from the SS to the A board and powered on again. TV turned on and remained on with black screen. Turned TV off and checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of connector SS52. This checked out ok so I then checked for continuity between pins 1 and 2 of SS54, SS55, and SS57 and these also looked ok.

At this point, the guide suggests replacing the SS2 board but I wasn't convinced. Having a fair amount of confidence that my new SS board is not the problem, I decided to focus on the SS2. Looking at the schematics from the Chassis guide, the SS2 board is very simple. Each of the 3 resistors were not shorted (meter showed 117kOhms each, but can't verify the actual resistance without removing the resistors). I also performed a diode check on each diode. I forgot to test diode D16362 but I doubt that there is a problem there as a visual check of the entire board showed no evidence of problems.

SO. Now I'm concerned that it may be a problem with the panel or the connection/connections from the SS/SS2 board to the panel sustain electrodes.

One last thing that I observed from the troubleshooting guide. For 8 blink errors, the guide states that the circuits monitored are the sustain drive circuit and the connection between the SS board and the panel. Conditions that could trigger this shutdown include: abnormality of the sustain drive circuit, open or loose connection between SS/SS2 boards and FPCs from the panel (SS52, SS54, SS55, SS57), Open or loose connection between connectors C10/C20 or C26/C36, or wrong diagnostic by the A board.

That's a lot of possibilities and I feel like I've eliminated most of them. I don't think the A board is a problem since the TV turns on fine when I disconnect the SS board. Also, the connections on the C boards appear fine.

Does anyone know if there is a way that I can verify that the problem is with the panel? Or have any other advice on circuits/boards to check out? Should I still try to replace the SS2 board? If it's the panel, I'll finally be able to send this TV into oblivion and get a new one but until I know for sure that it isn't a less serious and fixable problem, I can't let it go.

Thanks.


Maybe have a good look at the SS board for shorted components below. Always a chance you got a bad SS board.


http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...ht=ut50&page=3
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post #2077 of 2086 Old 09-02-2014, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cf92 View Post
Hi guys,

I bought my Panasonic TCP50U50 in July of 2012. In October of 2013 it failed on me with 8 blinking lights, I had it fixed by a repair shop for about $230. It worked without problem until yesterday (August of 2014) when it failed on me again with 8 blinking lights.

I am kind of torn on the situation, I realize that the problem is very simple and cheap to fix for someone with the skills and know-how. It would be a shame to get rid of it. However, I am not handy enough to do a DIY fix. I don't want to put out the money for a professional repair job again if it going to consistently fail on a yearly basis and the repair is only going to buy me another 10-14 months.

I guess the best avenue is call up Panasonic and tell my story? They did say they would compensate me for SOME of the repair costs last time around (the TV had just gone out of warranty), they never told me how much. I never got around to following up with them after the repair because I was just happy my TV was working again.

This time I expect I will get same routine, they will direct me to the nearest certified repair shop and tell me the TV is out of warranty. Hopefully if I state my case enough they may offer me a decent amount of compensation?


Assuming this is yet another SS and possibly poor earthing issue due to loose screws, $230 is a decent chunk of $$.


Maybe get a screw set http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-x...-screw-kit.htm


And get the SS board repaired for about $50, http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/...5623ab&x=0&y=0


Installation and removal should not be too difficult.
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post #2078 of 2086 Unread 09-11-2014, 01:57 PM
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About to try and remove the board from a Panny 50PZ80U and have it serviced by mail. Am I endangering my life by doing this?
Is there any kind of voltage issue I need to be worried about in removing and then re-installing the board?
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post #2079 of 2086 Unread 09-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renzo12 View Post
About to try and remove the board from a Panny 50PZ80U and have it serviced by mail. Am I endangering my life by doing this?
Is there any kind of voltage issue I need to be worried about in removing and then re-installing the board?
Provided power has been disconnected for some time you should be fine. Only danger is stored voltage in the 400v caps but since It's not working I assume the TV has been left unplugged.
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post #2080 of 2086 Unread 09-11-2014, 08:26 PM
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Provided power has been disconnected for some time you should be fine. Only danger is stored voltage in the 400v caps but since It's not working I assume the TV has been left unplugged.
Died last week. Been turned on a couple of times since, for maybe 5 minutes at a clip.
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post #2081 of 2086 Unread 09-11-2014, 08:30 PM
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My samsung did the same thing
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post #2082 of 2086 Unread 09-11-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Renzo12 View Post
Died last week. Been turned on a couple of times since, for maybe 5 minutes at a clip.
I guess you know most of the PZ80/800 psu repairs involve replacing a small ceramic cap on the mc201/301 modules. Cheap fix but if you don't have the gear or skills then that's a shame. 2 or 10blinks I assume you have
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post #2083 of 2086 Unread 09-12-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
I guess you know most of the PZ80/800 psu repairs involve replacing a small ceramic cap on the mc201/301 modules. Cheap fix but if you don't have the gear or skills then that's a shame. 2 or 10blinks I assume you have
Yep, two. Don't know where to get the cap and have never sodiered (sp) anything before.
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post #2084 of 2086 Unread 09-12-2014, 05:57 PM
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Speaking of the cap change to mc201/301 modules, I see electrolytic caps being recommended for the fix. Electrolytic are one of the less reliable caps (better these days, but still...). Wouldn't a good ceramic MLCC in an X7R rating be longer lasting?

And does anyone know what form factor the stock cap is (0603? 0805?)

My 42" started intermittently exhibiting the 10 blinks and some searches led here. I bought a kit from epay, and will take care of it shortly.

I have seen reference to a 4.7k resistor between pin 13 on the IC and 12 of the board connector (have it bookmarked). Is this fix still recommended? I would be doing this in conjunction with cap replacement (definitely) and IC change if needed.

Thanks, and nice forum!
Chris
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post #2085 of 2086 Unread Yesterday, 08:18 PM
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TC-P50ST60 2 Blinks

Complete noob trying to repair an issue with my ST60 - TV will turn on but then shuts off w/ 2 blink code. Out of warranty, but the shop wants ~$400 to fix this which seems exorbitant given that the part is available for $40 on eBay.

From what I've managed to find online, it looks like the P or A boards are the suspects.

I have never done any TV repair, but would purchasing a P board (I think the TXN/P1UJUU (TNPA5717), be the right first step? Are these reasonably easy to swap out?

The 2013 troubleshooting guide I found mentions checking a pin with a voltmeter...would it be reasonable to just try replacing the P board first and see what happens?

There should be no safety issue since the TV has been unplugged for weeks, but after plugging it in to test it if I need to open it back up, what's the deal?

Apologies if some of this is already answered, had trouble finding the answers. Any help would be super appreciated!
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post #2086 of 2086 Unread Today, 03:41 AM
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Complete noob trying to repair an issue with my ST60 - TV will turn on but then shuts off w/ 2 blink code. Out of warranty, but the shop wants ~$400 to fix this which seems exorbitant given that the part is available for $40 on eBay.

From what I've managed to find online, it looks like the P or A boards are the suspects.

I have never done any TV repair, but would purchasing a P board (I think the TXN/P1UJUU (TNPA5717), be the right first step? Are these reasonably easy to swap out?

The 2013 troubleshooting guide I found mentions checking a pin with a voltmeter...would it be reasonable to just try replacing the P board first and see what happens?

There should be no safety issue since the TV has been unplugged for weeks, but after plugging it in to test it if I need to open it back up, what's the deal?

Apologies if some of this is already answered, had trouble finding the answers. Any help would be super appreciated!

Well, you could always go down that path or see if you can get a multimeter and check if the 15v is present at switch on momentarily or not. if not I'd remove power and then measure the resistance there and see if shorted.

Is it Model No.TC-P2013TI Tech guide you found?

It says a short causes 10 blink but I would not take it for granted.

I have not read much in way of faults elsewhere on the 2013 models so I only know what is written in the guide but failed SC or SS boards or shorts can throw some unusual codes and the guides don't always cover all scenarios.

It'd be real annoying if you replaced both the A and P boards and ended up being still 2 blinks.

Try this and see if it changes anything.

TV off, disconnect the following

At power board, P2,P11,P35 (power leads)

At A board, A33, A20 (white ribbons)

Turn on and see if it turns on with no blinks, have on only long enough to verify faulted/not faulted

Leave all power cables disconnected for 5 mins or more so power bleeds off otherwise you may spike a board or panel (P35) and a spiked panel is terminal/not repairable.

If it still 2 blinks, you'd have to follow the fault finding chart for P or A or take a gamble on which one it is.

http://www.csportal.panasonic-la.com...50ST60L_SM.pdf

http://www.serwis-elektroniki.com.pl...oting_2013.pdf
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