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post #2131 of 2152 Old 11-10-2014, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
Well, if they write it off ( i expect they would) you could see how much they'll pay out and then see if you can buy back the dead TV for something real cheap? say up to $50. If the payout is good enough you could then spend that on a board (maybe) and self repair but you'd have to confirm it's SC and test the buffers. Given it's age it may be time to let it go but don't expect any of the new stuff to last longer , panasonic quality really dropped off from 2011 on, lots of examples of loose or incorrect mounting screws on the sustain boards causing poor earth and the boards blow up, if you wanted a plasma Panasonic have stopped production.

You could always flog the set off on ebay if you bail out

Maybe keep an eye open on the bay for a PZ80/800 series with 2 or 10 blink which is generally a simple cap replacement on the PSU or my model P50v20 as I have some spares and just helped a kid who scored a freebie from his neighbour, with my SC it's off and running again.

Your dad is correct, a crt will outlast these and i still have my 1080i 76cm panasonic flat screen CRT analog of course.

Thanks mate


Apparently tech came tonight and took it away. I think you may be on the mark about it being written off. He is going to call me in a few days. I am still in shock that they are going to cover it under warranty when it is over 5 years old. Extended warranty seems to be mandatory with TV's these days.


If my parents get paid out they will probably choose to go new instead of trying to buy back and fix the old unit, but I will ask if I can buy it back anyway if right price.


I have a Samsung UA46ES7500 LED TV. I love the look of it and the features but I find the picture quality does not always stack up to parents Panasonic plasma. If only the could improve on the build quantity. I assume they don't care as much anymore as the younger generation always want the latest gadget. My industry (automotive) is much the same. All work is R & R now. When it comes to rebuilding and overhaul the apprentices have no idea. Such a shame.


Anyway, we will see what the technician says. I'll drop a reply on the outcome TW2005. You have been a great help.
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post #2132 of 2152 Old 11-12-2014, 12:39 PM
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The saga continues with my TC-P65V10...

Since my last post I sent my A board to ModusLink PTS. They tested it and found no issues. I followed up with them and described my problem in more detail. They had me send in the PSU, SC, SU, SD, and SS boards. They said they ran them all together (with the A Board) for over a week and had no issues. Luckily, they didn't charge me anything and paid for the shipping back to me. I hooked everything back up, making sure the cables and screws were all secure.

The set turned on and ran fine for 10 days and then I got the same 1 blink issue again when turning it on. I unplugged the power cable, let it sit for 12 hours, and then it turned on successfully. Only this time it shut off after I was watching TV for about 90 minutes and the 4 blink code appeared.

That's the current situation, the TV will turn on after being unplugged for a long period, but will then shut off after about 90 minutes with the 4 blink code. The 1 blink code still occurs sometimes as well.

I really would like to fix this one and avoid spending more money on TVs, especially when all HDTVs I've owned have lasted 5 years or less.

Any ideas?
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post #2133 of 2152 Old 11-14-2014, 09:48 AM
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I have a TH-50PZ80U with the out of nowhere no longer turning on 10 blinking issue. Is it worth trying to fix or would a Vizio E Series be a worthwhile replacement/upgrade?
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post #2134 of 2152 Old 11-15-2014, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by utexas05alum View Post
The saga continues with my TC-P65V10...

Since my last post I sent my A board to ModusLink PTS. They tested it and found no issues. I followed up with them and described my problem in more detail. They had me send in the PSU, SC, SU, SD, and SS boards. They said they ran them all together (with the A Board) for over a week and had no issues. Luckily, they didn't charge me anything and paid for the shipping back to me. I hooked everything back up, making sure the cables and screws were all secure.

The set turned on and ran fine for 10 days and then I got the same 1 blink issue again when turning it on. I unplugged the power cable, let it sit for 12 hours, and then it turned on successfully. Only this time it shut off after I was watching TV for about 90 minutes and the 4 blink code appeared.

That's the current situation, the TV will turn on after being unplugged for a long period, but will then shut off after about 90 minutes with the 4 blink code. The 1 blink code still occurs sometimes as well.

I really would like to fix this one and avoid spending more money on TVs, especially when all HDTVs I've owned have lasted 5 years or less.

Any ideas?
you have a very difficult fault to nail down. The fact it's intermittent and inconsistent codes. 4 blink would primarily be PSU and 1 would normally suggest A board but both of those are potential suspects. If the 4 blink is the most consistant one then and assuming there's nothing major wrong with the PSU outputs then all I can think of is if the SOS 4 trigger which comes from the PSU to the A board , then if that line was held low by earthing that path it may be possible to isolate the fault that way.

If the TV still shut down with a 4 blink then I'd go A board, if it did not then PSU but I believe there is a multi PSU and a SUS PSU in these big sets.

The risk with this is if there was a legitimite overvoltage fault then with the SOS 4 earthed there's a risk of damage I guess.

I wonder if a hair dryer was used on the a and P boards to try and induce a fault would work? Obviously not so hot we cook or damage parts but it may also be heat related, bad solder joints or a component that's out of spec and changes with heat.

Even if you can isolate what board, how would one then get down to the exact component at fault?

That's probably the issue Modus would have as they 've proven when your boards are used, they could not get the same fault to occur.
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post #2135 of 2152 Old 11-16-2014, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 24958 View Post
I have a TH-50PZ80U with the out of nowhere no longer turning on 10 blinking issue. Is it worth trying to fix or would a Vizio E Series be a worthwhile replacement/upgrade?
Have you tried the NorCal YouTube video?


I had the 10-blink code on my TH-46PZ850U, it was out of service for a couple of months, finally performed the Norcal test of freezing the two MC-X01 boards, and ended up just removing a tiny capacitor on MC-201 to fix my set. It's been running without the capacitor now for several weeks without any problems.

Your set is probably fixable. I'd definitely pull the back off and spray those two boards with an upside-down can of compressed air (ejects refrigerant to freeze the onboard chip). Watch the video. It's very good.

By the way: does anybody know what that tiny capacitor actually *does* on the MC-201 board? Is it just a filter? And why does the set work when it is removed?? Has it failed internally in a 'flow-through' state, allowing current through when it's not supposed to???

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post #2136 of 2152 Old 11-17-2014, 07:21 AM
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Thanks mate


Apparently tech came tonight and took it away. I think you may be on the mark about it being written off. He is going to call me in a few days. I am still in shock that they are going to cover it under warranty when it is over 5 years old. Extended warranty seems to be mandatory with TV's these days.


If my parents get paid out they will probably choose to go new instead of trying to buy back and fix the old unit, but I will ask if I can buy it back anyway if right price.


I have a Samsung UA46ES7500 LED TV. I love the look of it and the features but I find the picture quality does not always stack up to parents Panasonic plasma. If only the could improve on the build quantity. I assume they don't care as much anymore as the younger generation always want the latest gadget. My industry (automotive) is much the same. All work is R & R now. When it comes to rebuilding and overhaul the apprentices have no idea. Such a shame.


Anyway, we will see what the technician says. I'll drop a reply on the outcome TW2005. You have been a great help.
Just an update. You were on the money TW2005. Tech said that he replaced the SC board and all seems to be working fine now. Only took him a day to source the board which I was very surprised.
Thanks again for your assistance.
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post #2137 of 2152 Old 11-17-2014, 07:28 AM
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Just an update. You were on the money TW2005. Tech said that he replaced the SC board and all seems to be working fine now. Only took him a day to source the board which I was very surprised.
Thanks again for your assistance.
Yeah, so am I, very! Maybe Panasonic had some of these here but definitely scarce used and about $140 is the US I see for rebuilds. I guess he kept the old board? would have been an interesting project to learn how to rebuild these. The bill would have been interesting too for the wty company. Quick turnaround though which is good, very lucky having that extended wty and having it honoured.
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post #2138 of 2152 Old 11-17-2014, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MajorSkeptic View Post
Have you tried the NorCal YouTube video?

Link removed as it won't let me quote the post with it due to not having enough posts.

I had the 10-blink code on my TH-46PZ850U, it was out of service for a couple of months, finally performed the Norcal test of freezing the two MC-X01 boards, and ended up just removing a tiny capacitor on MC-201 to fix my set. It's been running without the capacitor now for several weeks without any problems.

Your set is probably fixable. I'd definitely pull the back off and spray those two boards with an upside-down can of compressed air (ejects refrigerant to freeze the onboard chip). Watch the video. It's very good.

By the way: does anybody know what that tiny capacitor actually *does* on the MC-201 board? Is it just a filter? And why does the set work when it is removed?? Has it failed internally in a 'flow-through' state, allowing current through when it's not supposed to???
I am not sure I trust myself attempting something like that. Looks scary spraying some type of liquid substance on it where I would be concerned I would end up ruining it entirely.

I don't know anyone that could do the capacitor replacement so I would probably be out of luck either way.
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post #2139 of 2152 Old 11-19-2014, 11:39 AM
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24958:

I know how you feel ... it was kind of strange spraying refrigerant onto your TV's circuitry, but I wouldn't have done it had NorCal not done it first in his video. It's apparently harmless to the circuitry. What I did was remove the back screws and place them in three small ziploc 'snack' bags: one bag for the screws along the very bottom lip, another for the screws along the top edge and sides, and a 3rd bag for the screws around the patch panel (where the plugs go). It was something like 30 screws on my set. I even drew a little picture of where the screws went to make sure they all went back where they came from (there were 3 or 4 different sizes). Then, you just yank the panel off, get your compressed air can in hand, attach the straw, turn upside down, and give it two strong sprays to the IC Chip of one of those tiny MC-x01 boards. One board (MC-201) is off toward the left and the other (MC-301) is to the right. They're only about 3/4" in size and both are mounted vertically. If you look closely, I think the numbers are even printed on the circuit board nearby. You spray one board at a time, wait about a minute, then you power the set up to see if it comes up. If it doesn't, you spray the other chip and do the same thing. If the set comes up, that's the board with the bad capacitor. Place the TV on it's short side on the floor (so that the tiny circuit board is sitting horizontal to the floor ... easier to work on this way), place a right-angled pick on the back edge of the (very tiny) bad capacitor, then apply the smallest tip 'pencil-style' solder iron you can find (I ended up using a 15-watter) to the capacitor while pulling the pick toward you. The capacitor will break free and your set will *probably* work fine now. Before I broke the capacitor free, I actually *added* a droplet of solder to the capacitor's outermost 'leg' (don't ask me why ... I was just doing what NorCal did in his video), but maybe this isn't really necessary.

Oh ... leave the set upplugged for a few days before doing this to discharge those capacitors. Even with an unsteady hand you should be able to avoid touching the soldering iron to anything but the bad capacitor, but it's better to let the capacitors discharge anyway. Mine sat for a few *weeks* (LOL!)
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post #2140 of 2152 Old 11-19-2014, 11:43 AM
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Fried P12 Connector

Hi All

First time poster here. I've read through most of this thread today and can already see some of the mistakes I have made trying to fix my TH50-PZ800u, but my particular issue seems to be slightly different from others I've seen posted so maybe it will be of use to someone.

This particular TV has been creaking and groaning for a while, metaphorically speaking. Last year I was able to fix an 11 blink startup issue by replacing all of the fans and the fan board. I also had another 50" Panasonic TV that I was able to save from a 1 blink startup issue with a new A board, so my confidence at fixing these things was going up (too far it would now seem).

This year I started getting an 8 blink issue, which I attempted to fix by replacing the D board. When I put in the D board the problem changed from 8 blinks to 7 blinks, so following the troubleshooter again I ordered an SC board.

When I first fitted the new SC board the TV switched on fine but with a solarized image (like a negative).

I tried putting back the old SC to see if the 7 blinks would come back (they did) I then lifted up the A board to recheck the connections to the D board (previously replaced when I had 8 blinks) It all looked fine so I refitted the new SC board. Solarized picture returned. At that point I noticed some damage to the P12 connector (the one that runs to the SS board) When I tried to remove the plug having noticed evidence of burning (green residue) two the pins on the connector broke off completely.

Now the TV is completely dead (ie no lights at all) Does anyone have an opinion of what my next move should be? I am considering sending the P board off for a rebuild to someone on Ebay. What are the chances I've fried the SS or other boards as well? Perhaps I needed to make sure all the screws were tightened when I tried out the old SC board again.

From reading this thread through it would seem that the 'meta' issue on this TV was likely the underspeced caps on the 201 and 301 boards.

Was the solarized image evidence of a voltage overload? Is that what destroyed my P12 connector? The service manual does talk of the necessity for a 'voltage adjustment' after replacing an SC board but did not describe how one might actually achieve that.

Any help or advice will be much appreciated. I should say that I live on a tiny Island in the middle of the ocean so access to a 'proper' TV repair person is impossible.

Thanks all and sorry about the long post.
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post #2141 of 2152 Old 11-20-2014, 09:32 AM
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24958:

I know how you feel ... it was kind of strange spraying refrigerant onto your TV's circuitry, but I wouldn't have done it had NorCal not done it first in his video. It's apparently harmless to the circuitry. What I did was remove the back screws and place them in three small ziploc 'snack' bags: one bag for the screws along the very bottom lip, another for the screws along the top edge and sides, and a 3rd bag for the screws around the patch panel (where the plugs go). It was something like 30 screws on my set. I even drew a little picture of where the screws went to make sure they all went back where they came from (there were 3 or 4 different sizes). Then, you just yank the panel off, get your compressed air can in hand, attach the straw, turn upside down, and give it two strong sprays to the IC Chip of one of those tiny MC-x01 boards. One board (MC-201) is off toward the left and the other (MC-301) is to the right. They're only about 3/4" in size and both are mounted vertically. If you look closely, I think the numbers are even printed on the circuit board nearby. You spray one board at a time, wait about a minute, then you power the set up to see if it comes up. If it doesn't, you spray the other chip and do the same thing. If the set comes up, that's the board with the bad capacitor. Place the TV on it's short side on the floor (so that the tiny circuit board is sitting horizontal to the floor ... easier to work on this way), place a right-angled pick on the back edge of the (very tiny) bad capacitor, then apply the smallest tip 'pencil-style' solder iron you can find (I ended up using a 15-watter) to the capacitor while pulling the pick toward you. The capacitor will break free and your set will *probably* work fine now. Before I broke the capacitor free, I actually *added* a droplet of solder to the capacitor's outermost 'leg' (don't ask me why ... I was just doing what NorCal did in his video), but maybe this isn't really necessary.

Oh ... leave the set upplugged for a few days before doing this to discharge those capacitors. Even with an unsteady hand you should be able to avoid touching the soldering iron to anything but the bad capacitor, but it's better to let the capacitors discharge anyway. Mine sat for a few *weeks* (LOL!)
Very helpful and comforting post. Thank you MajorSkeptic.
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post #2142 of 2152 Old 11-20-2014, 07:27 PM
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i am attempting to fix my panasonic 50" plasma and one of the pads for the cap is bad so i cannot solder to it. i am using a surface mount cap. can i just solder it to the chip? what pins would i solder to? does anybody have a pic pointing to correct pins? or can u describe it to me as best as possible. thank u very much
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post #2143 of 2152 Old 11-21-2014, 02:42 AM
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i am attempting to fix my panasonic 50" plasma and one of the pads for the cap is bad so i cannot solder to it. i am using a surface mount cap. can i just solder it to the chip? what pins would i solder to? does anybody have a pic pointing to correct pins? or can u describe it to me as best as possible. thank u very much

what model! And do you have a picture of your situation? that may be better. Are we talking about a MC201,301 module repair??
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post #2144 of 2152 Old 11-21-2014, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by vinylbudgie View Post
Hi All

First time poster here. I've read through most of this thread today and can already see some of the mistakes I have made trying to fix my TH50-PZ800u, but my particular issue seems to be slightly different from others I've seen posted so maybe it will be of use to someone.

This particular TV has been creaking and groaning for a while, metaphorically speaking. Last year I was able to fix an 11 blink startup issue by replacing all of the fans and the fan board. I also had another 50" Panasonic TV that I was able to save from a 1 blink startup issue with a new A board, so my confidence at fixing these things was going up (too far it would now seem).

This year I started getting an 8 blink issue, which I attempted to fix by replacing the D board. When I put in the D board the problem changed from 8 blinks to 7 blinks, so following the troubleshooter again I ordered an SC board.

When I first fitted the new SC board the TV switched on fine but with a solarized image (like a negative).

I tried putting back the old SC to see if the 7 blinks would come back (they did) I then lifted up the A board to recheck the connections to the D board (previously replaced when I had 8 blinks) It all looked fine so I refitted the new SC board. Solarized picture returned. At that point I noticed some damage to the P12 connector (the one that runs to the SS board) When I tried to remove the plug having noticed evidence of burning (green residue) two the pins on the connector broke off completely.

Now the TV is completely dead (ie no lights at all) Does anyone have an opinion of what my next move should be? I am considering sending the P board off for a rebuild to someone on Ebay. What are the chances I've fried the SS or other boards as well? Perhaps I needed to make sure all the screws were tightened when I tried out the old SC board again.

From reading this thread through it would seem that the 'meta' issue on this TV was likely the underspeced caps on the 201 and 301 boards.

Was the solarized image evidence of a voltage overload? Is that what destroyed my P12 connector? The service manual does talk of the necessity for a 'voltage adjustment' after replacing an SC board but did not describe how one might actually achieve that.

Any help or advice will be much appreciated. I should say that I live on a tiny Island in the middle of the ocean so access to a 'proper' TV repair person is impossible.

Thanks all and sorry about the long post.
wow, that's something new. As soon as I read 8 blinks, i was thinking Ss board, but that proves it's an SS / supply issue.

You probably could locate a new socket and recycled cable although cable for sale would be rare. If you're skilled, why not desolder and remove the socket. label the cable leads with their pin number, cut the plug off, strip the wire to clean copper, i expect that corrosion is under the insulation , like electrolysis, solder the leads into their respective spot in the board. basically hard wire it in.

the only issue is whether the holes in the PCB are big enough for the wires to fit and desoldering will most likely make the holes smaller with solder remnants in there.

But you'll need soldering iron, tools, solder sucker, solder braid solder etc. flux pen helps with clean soldering.

I had a quick look and looks like the power switch, 15V to the Ss and Vda to the C buffers and panel routes via that , via SS,. vda to the panel is something you'd want right. If any thing gets damaged along that path especially the driver ICs on the bottom panel ribbons via the C buffers, it's non repairable permanent panel damage. How's the other end at the SS and also ss35?

the OEM number for the P12 connector, AKB10B-PH-KS

I'm not seeing numbers for that cable though

Last edited by TW2005; 11-21-2014 at 03:20 AM.
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post #2145 of 2152 Old 11-21-2014, 05:02 AM
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what model! And do you have a picture of your situation? that may be better. Are we talking about a MC201,301 module repair??
It is a th50pz80u. Yes mc201,301 repair
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post #2146 of 2152 Old 11-21-2014, 06:19 AM
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Yeah, so am I, very! Maybe Panasonic had some of these here but definitely scarce used and about $140 is the US I see for rebuilds. I guess he kept the old board? would have been an interesting project to learn how to rebuild these. The bill would have been interesting too for the wty company. Quick turnaround though which is good, very lucky having that extended wty and having it honoured.

Didn't find out the cost as I was not there when he dropped it off. Who would have thought the extended warranty company would pay up when it was out by a few days. Maybe got a nice operator. Can't complain, if they get a few more years out of it they will be happy.
Once again, thanks for all your help TW2005. You're a legend.
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post #2147 of 2152 Old 11-21-2014, 11:44 AM
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i am attempting to fix my panasonic 50" plasma and one of the pads for the cap is bad so i cannot solder to it. i am using a surface mount cap. can i just solder it to the chip? what pins would i solder to? does anybody have a pic pointing to correct pins? or can u describe it to me as best as possible. thank u very much
pannyboy87:

This quote comes from the Norcal video comments (1 year ago):

svc518:
I just repaired a TH-42PZ80U by replacing just the cap (1uF 50V ceramic) on the MC201 and MC301. I removed the faulty one, cut down the leads on the new one to size and soldered them straight onto pins 11 and 13 of the IC. Used a bit of silicone to anchor the cap in place. Picked up 5 caps for $1 from local electronics store. BOO YEAH.
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Cool thanks
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post #2149 of 2152 Old Yesterday, 12:53 PM
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Dead Panasonic TH-58PZ800U

Still struggling with a Panasonic TH-58PZ800U I'm desperate to fix. The saga to date:

Several months ago, this plasma failed mid-viewing and put out a 2-blink error. I checked the manual, which indicated the D-Board. I ordered a replacement and when I installed it, started getting 3 blinks, indicating the A-Board (inputs). I couldn't find a replacement for that so I sent it off to ModusLink for repair/return. They said the A-Board was fine and sent it back. I re-installed it - 3 blinks. I reinstalled the original D-Board as well and was back to 2 blinks. Since the power supplies are problematic on Panasonics, I took a chance on replacing the 2-piece P board (I also tried chilling the MC301 and MC201 with no effect). No change after swapping P-Boards. Frustrated, I took the whole thing to a local repair shop for testing in case I was getting dud replacement parts. They said both the original and new P boards were fine, but there was a short in the SC and SS boards. I replaced those and now get 5 blinks. And when I hold down the power button, it goes to 10 blinks. Also, if I disconnect the cables to the SC board and turn it on, it gives out 10 blinks.

The only possible visible issue I can see is the connector at the end of a wire cluster leading into the A-Board at the A-11 connection is cracked.

Any suggestions would be appreciated as well as any guidance on checking voltages to try and pin down the source of the problem.
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post #2150 of 2152 Old Yesterday, 01:05 PM
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Had a 3 year old Panny 55vt30 with the 7 blinks of death in which I see a lot of owners had lately in the other thread. Bought it from BB Magnolia w/4year extended warranty(luckily as I never buy the xtras) and got them to exchange for a brand spanking new Samsung 60f8500.

I had bought in advance the SC board Component Repair Kit and soldering station and then remembered what the salesman had told me, that they'll pick up the vt30 as it GeekSquad's property now. Shucks! I took off the back panel, measured the check points short circuit and believe I would have repaired it on the cheap for a spare tv. I paid the price for the BB extended warranty but they sure did what they were supposed to do but in my case better because the tv was repairable.

There will be many saying I got ripped paying all that for BB warranty but I got my way with them. Sure you could find cheaper warranty's out there maybe a 1/4 to a 1/3 of what BBGS's.

Last edited by pochoboy; Yesterday at 01:11 PM.
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post #2151 of 2152 Old Yesterday, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kmenc1111 View Post
Still struggling with a Panasonic TH-58PZ800U I'm desperate to fix. The saga to date:

Several months ago, this plasma failed mid-viewing and put out a 2-blink error. I checked the manual, which indicated the D-Board. I ordered a replacement and when I installed it, started getting 3 blinks, indicating the A-Board (inputs). I couldn't find a replacement for that so I sent it off to ModusLink for repair/return. They said the A-Board was fine and sent it back. I re-installed it - 3 blinks. I reinstalled the original D-Board as well and was back to 2 blinks. Since the power supplies are problematic on Panasonics, I took a chance on replacing the 2-piece P board (I also tried chilling the MC301 and MC201 with no effect). No change after swapping P-Boards. Frustrated, I took the whole thing to a local repair shop for testing in case I was getting dud replacement parts. They said both the original and new P boards were fine, but there was a short in the SC and SS boards. I replaced those and now get 5 blinks. And when I hold down the power button, it goes to 10 blinks. Also, if I disconnect the cables to the SC board and turn it on, it gives out 10 blinks.

The only possible visible issue I can see is the connector at the end of a wire cluster leading into the A-Board at the A-11 connection is cracked.

Any suggestions would be appreciated as well as any guidance on checking voltages to try and pin down the source of the problem.
responded in your kmenc13 thread
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post #2152 of 2152 Old Yesterday, 09:06 PM
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responded in your kmenc13 thread
Thanks. I haven't tried those other points you listed, but will check them out.

Last edited by kmenc1111; Yesterday at 09:26 PM.
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